I did the same thing and ripped the middle trace. did you end up buying a replacement daughterboard from eBay? I hear if you replace it. it needs to be calibrated?
@@Nintendo.wins_2023 I unfortunately have not pursued this matter further. I’ve been holding out hope that one day, we will be able to get the parts from iFixit, but it doesn’t seem very hopeful :(
Perhaps I've missed you mentioning, or you didn't really mention ... Did you check if the original button itself worked - as in directly pressing the small round (seemed blue) part of the R1 micro switch/button? And the pads/contacts and traces (which is what I think you referred to as wire) that tore off - happened while you tried to remove the origonal micro button, or what?
Yeah I did try to engage the button with the plastic bumper off and the device on, but it quite literally went caput lol no input registered. And when I went to de-solder it, I didn’t do the proper research as I should’ve as the R1/L1 buttons are pass through solder points on the board, and I ended up desoldering the lead for the button 🙃
@@OuterspaceGaming so any specific hints/tips for another person that despite (or perhaps exactly because) education and work experience (decade or two ago) with electronics, assembling/soldering (hand soldering SMD Atmel chips), owning cheap but actually decent heat gun vacuum ... I am wondering if I really want to open up our SD. Every time you do such things at home, there's like an extra one or two screws when you put it back together 😜
@@techcodenet well this was my very first time soldering, so to come to me for any hints/tips for this, while flattering, probably wouldn’t yield the degree of information as someone else would provide that’s been doing it for a while. If you’d like to watch something regarding a cleaner and more seamless way to keep track of screws and stuff, you can watch my steam deck upgrading video! In that video, I did show a pretty easy way to take the deck apart while simultaneously allowing you to keep track of screws and parts. But like I said; I’m not super knowledgeable with soldering (as you can see lol). Go check out that deck video and then if you have any further questions after that, just lmk either in this video or that one and I’ll try to answer any questions to the best of my abilities!
@@OuterspaceGaming fair enough. I was thinking more about some surprises or other things to watch out for that are perhaps more general. For a specific example - some photos I've found about that R1 button and PCB it's on (and some videos mentioning there's some mechanical reinforcement) makes me think that particular switch might not be just a standard albeit horizontal micro switch - but that there's some metal reinforcement surrounding it. Similar to something you would see on old RCA (audio or composite) or RF connectors. Though there it was more about shielding signals from outside EM radiation, and less about physical strength.
@techcodenet that much im not sure of tbh lol but I’ve also seen people use old Nintendo DS buttons for replacement on the steam deck since they’re the same size! I went and ordered buttons off the internet that said they were specifically for the steam deck, so your guess is as good as mine. Not sure about the EMF interference regarding the metal shrouding on it though 🤷
I did the same thing and ripped the middle trace. did you end up buying a replacement daughterboard from eBay? I hear if you replace it. it needs to be calibrated?
@@Nintendo.wins_2023 I unfortunately have not pursued this matter further. I’ve been holding out hope that one day, we will be able to get the parts from iFixit, but it doesn’t seem very hopeful :(
Perhaps I've missed you mentioning, or you didn't really mention ...
Did you check if the original button itself worked - as in directly pressing the small round (seemed blue) part of the R1 micro switch/button?
And the pads/contacts and traces (which is what I think you referred to as wire) that tore off - happened while you tried to remove the origonal micro button, or what?
Yeah I did try to engage the button with the plastic bumper off and the device on, but it quite literally went caput lol no input registered. And when I went to de-solder it, I didn’t do the proper research as I should’ve as the R1/L1 buttons are pass through solder points on the board, and I ended up desoldering the lead for the button 🙃
@@OuterspaceGaming so any specific hints/tips for another person that despite (or perhaps exactly because) education and work experience (decade or two ago) with electronics, assembling/soldering (hand soldering SMD Atmel chips), owning cheap but actually decent heat gun vacuum ...
I am wondering if I really want to open up our SD.
Every time you do such things at home, there's like an extra one or two screws when you put it back together 😜
@@techcodenet well this was my very first time soldering, so to come to me for any hints/tips for this, while flattering, probably wouldn’t yield the degree of information as someone else would provide that’s been doing it for a while. If you’d like to watch something regarding a cleaner and more seamless way to keep track of screws and stuff, you can watch my steam deck upgrading video! In that video, I did show a pretty easy way to take the deck apart while simultaneously allowing you to keep track of screws and parts. But like I said; I’m not super knowledgeable with soldering (as you can see lol). Go check out that deck video and then if you have any further questions after that, just lmk either in this video or that one and I’ll try to answer any questions to the best of my abilities!
@@OuterspaceGaming fair enough.
I was thinking more about some surprises or other things to watch out for that are perhaps more general.
For a specific example - some photos I've found about that R1 button and PCB it's on (and some videos mentioning there's some mechanical reinforcement) makes me think that particular switch might not be just a standard albeit horizontal micro switch - but that there's some metal reinforcement surrounding it.
Similar to something you would see on old RCA (audio or composite) or RF connectors. Though there it was more about shielding signals from outside EM radiation, and less about physical strength.
@techcodenet that much im not sure of tbh lol but I’ve also seen people use old Nintendo DS buttons for replacement on the steam deck since they’re the same size! I went and ordered buttons off the internet that said they were specifically for the steam deck, so your guess is as good as mine. Not sure about the EMF interference regarding the metal shrouding on it though 🤷
What pops button out? Spring?
Yes