Craftsman Wobble Dado/ Adjustable Dado Blade, Model
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- This is the Craftsman #3263 Adjustable Dado Blade. This video demonstrates now to make it work correctly, and lists the parts you will need, as well and the link in this box to the Amazon part I bought to fix the problems I had with this blade. So Lets do this.
#shorts #tools #review
Here is the Amazon link
amzn.to/3C9b4C5
Thanks! I just bought one today from Habitat for $6.40 and had no idea how to use it. After watching the video I checked to see if mine still had the bushing. Yay! It does.
Now I've got to find out how to make a throat plate.
I bought one of these new in about 1982 and it came with a bushing like the one you used. I still have the blade and it works fine. I guess if you buy a used blade, for instance at a yard sale, it might be missing the bushing so this video is useful. Thanks.
Thanks Guy, I had to search all over for the answer to this, finally found the solution on an old forum post and thought I'd share, glad you found it useful
I still have the one I bought new in the 80's as well. Mine still has the original bushing & functions fine.
thanks hopefully you can show the width adjustment
Howdy! I had picked up the 3261 blade from a friend of the family several years ago. My intention was to start using in. Well, a lot of life happened since then. Now, as I get close to retirement, I'm setting my tiny workshop back up and came across the dado blade. Thank you for showing me how to use it. All I had was the blade. :)
Hey man no problem. Like I said make sure to use the bushing. There are better options out there, but sometimes you use what ya got. Good luck with your shop!
Also, make sure your safety plate is open enough to accommodate the left to right motion of the blade movement. You may have to do a little machining if it's not...
Good tip here, and thankfully, I have managed ( somehow ) to NOT loose the arbor bushing that came with my Craftsman Adjustable Dado blade ( looks just like the one you have here )
Cuts dadoes beautifully.
Thanks for this.
Just picked up 2 of these smaller and bigger. Both with bushings. I had no idea what I was getting lol
I have an old Craftsman dado also purchased in '88 or 89 and it has bushing in it also. Guess it still works as it was purchased to use on Craftsman radial arm saw, worked fine then however haven't used for years and only came across it today, 30 plus years later. As you can tell haven't had a lot of use. :)
I still have mine..39 years old. Don't do a lot with it nowadays.. prefer using a router table to make those cuts when necessary. I think I paid $49 for it back in '83. What does make it special is that it is able to get "in between" standard thicknesses that stacked Dado blade sets cant do.. it's my "go to" when I have odd thickness stock or panels and the assembly needs a precision fit.. and I have to make a LOT of grooves. I don't have your nice throat plate.. that thing whirring around is pretty scary.. but then again, any thick blade is enough to give one pause, IMO. I still have my collet for setting the blade on the arbor.. yes, to any one who gets this used, and you don't have it.. make sure you get one - if you have a 5/8" arbor saw. Just saw this video.. thanks for posting!
The wobbling type dado is good only if it has set screws that tighten after adjustment. Otherwise, it is not usable, IMO. Without set screws, any movement can disturb the width of cut. Even with the same desired width of cut, you have to adjust all over again after you have taken it out.
I have three of such from Harbor Freight, about $20 each then, more than 15 years ago. One for each plywood thickness I often use. Once set each is seldom changed. Sure beats router bits for through (non-stopped) grooving and dadoing. Stays sharp forever when used only for solid wood.
The slight round bottom is actually good for grooving and dadoing. This may not work as well for tenons, but you don't really need a dado set for tenons.
Oh wow! Thanks! I have one and have never used it caus everyone said it didnt work!
Pretty sure these are banned in at least the UK, due to having to remove a safety device
You should be able to put a wrench right behind the Arbor to keep it from spinning. Your saw looks like mine and it came with 2 flat wrenches.
mine has been working since the late 70s.
I had one of those bloody suicide slicers on a radial arm saw back in the 80's/90's. Terrified the living crap outta me quite literally every time I turned it on, both for the noise and the ungodly vibrations on the tool. Never gave better than a mediocre cut, neither: sloppy shoulders and rounded off kerf bottoms.
Worse, there's NO better way to put brutal stresses on the tools themselves (which, it's worth noting, they _weren't engineered to take._ The motor's drive shaft/spindle isn't expecting to have extremely-heavy _lateral_ torque applied to it. It's neither designed nor reinforced to take that flavor of abuse.
But more obnoxious still, after your use of the thing (no, I'm not suggesting your saw will explode apart after just one or two uses; it's just adding unnecessary metal fatigue to the core components of the tool), you then have to re-calibrate the damn thing, since all that back and forth joggling around like jello mold on a foot massager almost inevitably shakes crap outta alignment.
Albeit, the latter point there is more pronounced on a radial arm than on a table saw, but even so. There's a reason none of the quality blade manufacturers sell those things anymore (come to that, I don't think anyone even _MAKES_ them anymore). I'm not knocking the old Craftsman tools (they were great, once): indeed, the radial arm in question was Sears and Roebuck-sold Craftsman. Nor am I trying to tell anyone what to do... you wanna strap on Satan's cheese grater and give 'er a whirl that's your business; I'll high-five your hand as it comes spiralling past.
But it's worth remembering: those things' hayday was before things like "safety" were invented. And hell, you can get a real-live dado stack - one that leaves crisper lines, a flat-bottomed kerf, and DONES'T require you to hunt down a chinesium bushing from Amazon - for less than 75 bucks. And if you're thinking "HA! I can get a wobbler for FIFTEEN at this garage sale," ask yourself: 1. why IS it so cheap? 2. Have I factored the cost of premature damage to the tool? and 3. Have I factored the opportunity cost of living the rest of my life with four fewer fingers? How about one less head?
I have to say I do agree, I mean once I kicked it on the first time It was terrifying. The bushing though makes it at least bearable,and does improve things considerably. I'll continue to cut dados with my router for the time being. Thanks for the thoughtful post :)
your dado blade is missing the reducer for mounting to the saw’s shaft. thats why the noise and the shaking too.
Where to buy the wobble dado blade
To me the word wobble dont go with a high speed spinning disc, especially a disc with teeth on it........
Kind of unsafe practice to show your viewers cutting a dado on a under-size arbor, My Craftman adjustable dado blade works great in my Craftman radial arm saw. So what size bushing you use..... you say and show different size. Viewers and new comers........... don't take that much of a cut.