Testing the Wobble Dado Blade - woodworkweb
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- In this video we test a Wobble Wheel Dado blade for the table saw to see just how much curvature there is at the bottom of the cut and pose the question ... would a wobble wheel work for you?
******************
Woodworking Tools Review Playlist: • Tool Reviews
Woodworking Tool Tips Playlist: • Woodworking Tool Tips
******************
Full Article on Wobble Blades - goo.gl/XmqOP1
** Like me at Facebook: / woodworkweb
** Follow me on Twitter: / woodworkweb
** Join me on woodworkweb: www.woodworkweb...
** Connect with me on Google+: goo.gl/7fotJq
In the US these are called wobble dado blades but years ago they were referred to as drunken saw blades! After purchasing a expensive high-quality stackable set I would never go back but I have plowed tens of thousands of feet with a wobble dado and they will get the job done. Thanks for including the truth behind the set up process. That part was kind of glossed over by the companies that sold these blades!
those of you writing off this blade because of the adjustments he needed to do should keep in mind that you can mark off your own positions once you find the right width.
now that he has it perfect, all he needs to do is score the adjustment wheel himself and from now on he can switch to that exact measurement in a matter of seconds.
yes, it is a minor inconvenience to have to find your own sweet spots, but the money saved with this is nothing to scoff at... not to mention that priceless feeling of tweaking your own tools and knowing that each piece of equipment you use is personally calibrated.
Sounds like you are a fan of these
@@CharleswoodSpudzyofficial or ..... maybe.... as time goes along ..... set a blade up for a width...
find some at yard sales / craigs list / what have you .... and set other blades up for other widths. Once set ...... never change em.
That's exactly what I was thinking.
@@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555 brilliant
RUclips my man. I don't know why you recommended me this but I think I want one now.
The Glue Gap is a feature, not a problem.
BariumCobaltNitrog3n Look at you with a Dado half full mentality.
....*!*
-apple 2016
Tape measure was right there the whole time, common mistake of over thinking
^^Exactley...how did the original comment get 81 likes. No offense to anyone but my word people are so uninformed. I wouldn't have expected that on such a niche page.
Great video Collin. Some FIY, this is also called an adjustable dado blade, or an infinitely adjustable, and they were originally designed for use on radial arm saws(RAS) where adjusting into the exact width would be much easier. In fact, for many years, the RAS was often referred to as the king of dados because of the ease of adjustment using a wobble wheel and the fact that you can more readily see exactly where the cut will be made.
I had no idea this saw has been common.
My brother in law has such a saw (a heritage), and it always seemed like something home made to me. The arm is so sloppy in all directions that is hard to get any precise cut with it. Using it as a chop saw works somewhat. But that's about it.
Thanks, I learned something new.
I have had one of these since the 1970's. Works great and not dangerous at all. On hardwood be sure to slow down, it can rip out a lot if too fast.
I have a nice dado stack, but I hate messing with shims. Honestly, this seems plenty good. And a quick pass with a router plane and you're golden.
I used both stacked and adjustable (woble) dado blades Peter Brown. The adjustable can take just as long to get set to the proper width as many ar not very precise on their settings. That said, they are a continuous analog adjustment. So theoretically you can always set them for a perfect width (if you wnat to spend the set-up time). For me, they are a perfect paring with a radial arrm saw.
I have never found them to be any more or less clean cutting than a stacked system. They can be more difficult to maintain an edge depending upon the type of teeth (beveled or squared). The easiest are the squared face. These are commonly carbide tiped and naturally more expensive. That said, they are still about 1/5th the price of a stacked set.
For persons in coutries that do not allow the use of stacked dado blades, adjustable are sometimes a viable option. The "single piece" design and its generally lower mass allow it to meet safety regulations that a stacked system normally cannot (stopping time being the biggest issue).
The RAS makes a lot of sense, as you could adjust it much easier!
***** Thanks for commenting Eric
Some will like the wobble dado ... others not so much, but that's the great thing about having choices because we all do different work and what works for some doesn't always work for others ... thanks for your comments, good to hear.
Eh its not the worst. Fiddly adjustment aside its serviceable. That and analog adjustment means you can tune in as close as you want on width.
Ah, my grandfather would have *loved* this channel. He was a life-long woodworker and carpenter. He's got an amazing selection of tools, some that I've never seen anywhere else. He was one of those guys who could make ANYTHING out of wood. He made a grandfather clock by hand...all the gears, the weight, the hands and the case, it took him months to build and many months to get it to keep precise time, but it works perfectly and has for many, many years (he made it in the 60s).
Scott R nice profile pic.
Rock’N the black and yellow!
I still have one from almost 20 years ago, when it was new it was fairly easy to set the width accurately. I used it mainly for lap joints and shelf dadoes and it wasn't expensive to purchase. I still use it for some applications time to time but I prefer a good stacked carbide set for accuracy.
Colin, I had one of these blades years ago, and fell in love with it. Since most everything I do is 3/4", I didn't need to keep resetting it up. I have a Stacked set, but this is so much simpler. Just bought one on eBay after watching the video for $40 w/ Free S&H. BTW, that last measurement is 13/16". Thanks for sharing.
David Moffitt Thanks David ... good idea about keeping it set at 3/4, and when you can pick these things up a swap meets etc for as little as $5 ... a person could have 2 or 3 that could be pre-set ... great idea, thanks buddy
First time I ever heard of a wobble wheel, thanks for sharing.
No Prob ... thanks for taking the time Dale
My older brother was a carpenter and mechanic, he died in 1993 and I inherited all his tools,
Just last week I found a brand new Craftsman adjustable dado blade in the bottom of his Craftsman tool box.
Can't wait to try it out.
However, I also have the instructions that came with it and they explicitly say that you will get a non square bottom cut in all increments except 3/4 inch.
Is... Is that Halo music in the opening?
+Dennis19901 Yeah... No joke, I'm now setting up halo because this video gave me a desire to visit the Pillar of Autumn :)
That was super helpful. I just got an older craftsman table saw with bunches of cool accessories, among them was this dado blade. Watched the video, and had it in service within a few minutes. It’s working and I’m cranking out cuts. Thanks for the video :)
Once you get the adjustment right, I think this blade is really nice. Usually you would fill that "gap" with some glue, so I don't see why it should be a problem.
+pcfreak1992 Glue can hide some smaller problems ... good point
The only reason to have space for glue is in bored holes where you are trying to avoid hydraulic pressures splitting your piece. Almost every glue you are going to encounter in woodworking is magnitudes stronger when it is applied thinly and evenly. A glue has strength because it bonds two surfaces together, not because it holds on to both surfaces well and has great internal strength. A perfectly matched joint with adhesive will last longer than the materials that are being glued together. One with "a little space for glue" will fail at the glue point more often than anywhere else.
Something I learned years ago with my woodworking was to figure out how to accomplish something if I didn't have all of Norm's tools. No router, use a bead blade in hand plane as example of this. This dado was what I purchased decades ago and still use because I couldn't afford a stack. Thanks for sharing.
I finally got around to buying my first dado blade, and it's a wobble. Haven't used it yet.
UGH!!! Watching you fiddle with the sizing is maddening! I'm heading straight to your "Sizing Jig for the Wobble Wheel Dado Blade".
Thanks!!
The non tightness at the end of the board is because the saw is a circle. You can't fix it. Even if the day wasn't a circle it spins in a circle. The tiny gap at the end of the board is the curve from the spinning. The only way the make it smaller is by getting a bigger saw blade so that the curve is closer to the horizontal.
Carlos Colón or manufacturer the blade with a slight elyps
Not really. Because the blade rotates around a point, the path that any Point on the blade will take will always be a circle. So the point farthest out from the center will end up making the same cut as circular saw. It's the main reason why it's completely impossible to drill a square hole unless you use some mechanical contraption. The only way to fix it is to use a bigger saw blade to make the curve of the blade closer to a horizontal line.
Carlos Colón each point will make a circle but with an elyptical blade not each point will make the same circle. if the elyps has the shallow curve over the centre and the peeks at the extremes of the tilt the points at the side will make larger circles than those over the centre so when combined with the curve of the wobble arc they would cancel each other out.
Sorry, you're right. That would actually work. I forgot that the blade was at an angle and kept thinking about it vertically. I thought about it and yes that would work. The only problem would be that to fix a gap as small as the one in the video, the deviation of the shallow curve of the ellipse would be so small that the ellipse would still look like a circle to the naked eye. To manufacture something with that kind of precision is going to be bitch but it's possible. Either way, he has two options to choose from if he wants to fix it. One's super difficult but realistic ( your idea) and the other is super easy but unrealistic (my idea). Thank you for having an adult discussion about this. As a 17 year old, I appreciate it.
Carlos Colón machining it with an elyps that shallow would be stupidly complex (these blades are supposed to be the cheap option). that said I would be interested to find out if you could take a circular blade and cut against a shaped grindstone to reduce it to an elyps for cheap.
I've had one of these for over 40 years and it was quite a few years old when I got it. I was just given an old (1976) Craftsman table saw that I am refinishing that came with an old Craftsman stacked dado. I've not used either of these blades but will have to try them when I get the saw put back together.
Took the bearings on my radial arm saw out on two sets of stair case runners ! Wobble speaks for its self !
I really may get a radial saw one day. I don't know why nobody ever talks about a radial saw !!
Try making shallower cuts.
@@versatileduplicity9313 I have a smaller size radial arm saw that I love to use.
@@versatileduplicity9313 too many people didnt know how to use them so most people consider them death machines. They are all over the place for dirt cheap coz nobody wants them. I got my first one for $20 and 2nd one for free on the side of the road. I sent the 2nd in to Emerson for recall, since I liked the 1st one better, but the 2nd one surprisingly had a nearly mint condition old Craftsman Wobble blade in it. I think I made out pretty good on that deal!
Thanks for a great demo on this Wobble Wheel. I was doing a lot of cabinet making in my younger years and this was my first dado I bought. As you demonstrated, it can be a great frustration at first to adjust the wheel to the exact size of the dado you want to cut. Yes I had to make several tests to get the size I needed. After I used it a lot, making adjustments, I did finally become used to where to align the markers to get a closer fit, then I just needed to make one final adjustment for the final size. So with practice you become accustom with it. You mentioned the "space" on the bottom. This is caused because of a few factors. When they first came out with it, the cuts did not get into the corners enough so it made them round and it was difficult to get the board right down to the bottom of the dado. So to correct this they sharpened the blades in a way that the tips of the blades now reach right up to the corners. But this created another problem. As the blade wobble to cut the dado, the tips were cutting deeper into the bottom of the dado, thus the space. or rounding at the bottom. Like you said, you could live with that error and so did I. In all reality, it worked out better as when I was gluing up my project it had a minute space for the glue to go. I now have a full set of dados that I bought and I still find that I have to stop to make adjustments on them as well. I just thought that you would like to know this if ever asked. I have learnt a lot of great helpful hints from your videos. Keep up the great work. Tim
I like using the wobble Dado Blade. it may not give as clean a cut on bottom but who cares and besides it comes very close any way. these things can be dialed in, in few seconds almost the first time and save so much time especially with ply wood junk we get these days. no dealing with freaking shims and taking off blades and putting back on wasting so much time.
if you are not making super fine furniture with real wood that has exposed dado , then this is the only way to go. i got lucky and found a brand new one. they should bring these back.this was ingenious design.
FYI - I just picked one of these up at a swap meet - it's a Craftsman model. It has locking pins for each size and set screws to lock it in place. Set it for 3/4 and cut a perfect fit dado first try. It is adjustable to sizes besides those marked if you pull the pins. Great for Metric boards (however I do believe it would be trial and error to set).
Picked it up with a more traditional dado stack set for $15 Canadian. Great deal indeed!!! Thanks for the Video!
Never seen this blade before, thank you😃
Colin, I used one of those as a hobbiest for many years until needing to do more dado's more often, finally being able to afford the stacked set. The best way to eliminate all the changing settings is to mark a piece of wood the size of dado you want, adjust the wobble thickness with blade in the arbor but not tightened and turn the wobble several turns while watching your makings in the wood flat on the table allowing the wood to just barely touch the blade. Adjust while on the arbor then tighten blade secure when correctly hitting your marks on the wood.
The increments on the setting look logarithmic
... because there's an adjustable triangle with a fixed hypotenuse involved.
Just dug around and found my old Craftsman wobble dado today. Used it a bit in the 80's and haven't touched it since. However, I'm building a gate and need to dado some half-lap joints from 2x4s so, out it comes. I'll be using an 80s wobble on my 70s Craftsman table saw. Talk about old school!
is that wobble bad for the saw?
You will have dynamic unbalance
Good question Green. The answer is no because there is actually no wobble. The "wobble" is a visual effect, not a physical one. All the mass is still rotating evenly around the same center and is still evenly distributed so there is no unbalanced forces. Everything is still a circle, but the axis of rotation has been changed from normal (i.e. 90 degrees) to a more acute setting. Think of the flutes on a drill bit. Viewed in cross section the are a pair of overlapping circles, but when viewed along their axis of rotation they form elongated spirals. The "wobble" blade is the same effect simply from a different point of view. The effect on the wood is to remove small bits offset instead of directly behind each other. This gives the lateral cutting effect while advancing the work piece provides the longitudinal cutting. Since the blade spins fast enough, the effect is to cut the complete width at least twice before any significant longitudinal movement happens. Any vibration people experience with these is almost always (well over 98%) due to variances between their spindle size and the arbor of the blade. This can normally be dampened by using arbor shims (not commonly found) or by buying a blade specified for the model they are using (too often "close enough" actually isn't).
I have had one of these for about 40 years now. Use the heck out of it. When using on hardwood, go slow to avoid tear out, other than that like it a lot.
The demonstration proves why the wobble dado blade became a dinosaur.
Cre8Thought41 08:49 for the moment adjustment matches desired cut, and cut exam...s' a bit loppy on MDF nevermind mesquite...at 10:30 .
The dial needs adjusted on the saws hub.
The crowned rebate (dado), is fixed by a pass with a chisel or router plane.
I don't know how i found this channel.
I don't own a table saw and I never plan on cutting a dado.
But that doesn't matter because after a long day at word it's super relaxing to watch you take apart your table saw 6 times in a row in high speed.
Dissadvantage: It takes a lot of adjustment to get right advantage:It's highly adjustable.
Robert Schuster the measurements on the blade are pretty close to true. Before we cut we always measure the thickness of boards and just adjust the wobble wheel accordingly.
I use to have a wobble dado blade, didn't use it after I bought a real multi-blade dado set. However, there is a good reason to have one! When your friends ask to borrow your dado blade,,, I'm sure you can figure this out! Eventually sold it at a garage sale when we moved! One thing I like about this video, is how you pointed out the main problem with a wobble dado - the slight crown in the dado - more noticeable as the dado width increases! One thought occurred was that you could use a flush trim 'Bottom Cleaning Router Bit' to remove the crown.
Me and my dad use a wobbler when i was in high school to make the laps in cedar planks to place on the side of his ranch house. Worked quick and worked well!
Vermont-American still makes these.
Hi Colin. I really enjoy watching your channel and get a lot from it. I owned a wobble dado blade many years ago and I returned it to Sears where I bought it. I didn't like the finished look on shelving I was making so I switched to a router and it worked much better for my application. In retrospect, I probably could have just finished up my dado with my router.
I got a wobble wheel a few years ago, put it in a box, and said I was going to use it later. Well 4 years later my wife found the box, so I took it out and finally put it together. This one was made by Oldham and it comes apart so I can dial it in. I have a Dewalt job site DW744 table saw for which I made a rolling cart with wings. Everywhere I looked on the web, people were saying you can't use a dado stack on a Jobsite Saw. Well, I got a Dado Throat plate from Dewalt for my saw with instructions on how to use a Dado Stack. The outside arbor flange is put on the inside and I bought another flange for the outside so the saw blade isn't going anywhere. I set the cutter to 3/4" and the Dado was really tight. I sanded a bit to fit the test piece and that did the trick. I suppose I could have done what you did in trying to dial in the perfect fit, but for my purpose, this worked out pretty good. I also have a Freud Dado Stack that actually works much better. As with your Wobble Wheel, mine has flat teeth but still produces a bit of a cup. Thanks again for this video.
Good tool if you are getting by the hour.
I use mine regularly to excellent effect. It leaves ample surface area for strong glue joints. Where a dado stack cuts only to discrete widths, the wobble wheel's continuous adjustment cuts any width the stock requires. I don't know why this excellent tool fell out of favor. Excellent and much needed video. Thank you.
RUclips, why is this in my recommended? I don't even know how to make a simple chair. :| Nevertheless, that was entertaining and Informative.
I started with one of these and it worked well for me for years. I was never real crazy about the vibration. So, I bought an Excaliber (twin blade) from Sears for around $75, 30 or so years ago. It had carbide teeth and cut well. I bought a Freud stacked set and figured I didn't need the twin so I sold it to someone starting out. The wobbler, I gave away somewhere along the way. I still miss them both. I didn't experience the lengthy setup that you portrayed with the wobbler. You guys stick with what you got if it works for you.
used one of those back in the 80's in woodshop-they work pretty good.
i like that even if you speed it up you show'd all of it XD +1 like from me XD
Afetr my dad passed away there were 3 of these attached to his table saw with a leather strip...now I know how to use them...thank you
Kevin Wiebe Hi Kevin ... thanks for the note, I too inhered one of these when my father passed. Thanks for the note, brought back great memories
Colin
video starts at 9:00
Thanks for this video. I purchased five of these over time. Each like brand new. These things never seem to get much use. Probably because of the fiddle factor they get set to the side in the tool arsenal. I set up each one to a different size and used lock-tite on the dial. I just grab a preset wobble for the size I need and cut away. You can find these everywhere for about 5-10 dollars each.
Wibbly wobbly timey wimey - look out, he's got two shadows!
I recently bought a new wobble dado and I am very pleased with the blade. I don't do fine work with it; just for my little projects. I believe it is a Irwin product. Enjoy your shows.
Dat Halo theme intro. lol
lmao
I have a blade like this and they are a pain to get set just right, but for the cost they are perfect for the hobby guy. Good job showing the drawbacks to this type of dado blade.
Your intro... that isn't Halo, is it? XD
i think it is!
takes me back
TeamTacticalChaos An interesting choice, for sure!
TheFurriestOne yes it is!!!
i smell impending copyright strikes.
lol scrolled through the comments to see if anyone else noticed it
I have one of these and used it a good deal on my Radial Arm Saw, worked great. The iterative process of getting the dado exact is just as cumbersome with the stacked dado. Has to be another reason these were discontinued. My guess might be the vibration impacts of the wobble on the saw.
have 2 old craftsman ones.
I keep one set for 3/16+ for my 1/4" ply dados, and the other set at 1/2" for 1/2" Baltic birch 9-ply dados.
use a real stacked set for my 3/4.
love these though. I set it up and then make a few alignment marks so I can always set it right back.
More than likely, the blade need to be sharpened. I have a wobble dado that made perfect dado with out the crown in the groove. Also, when I set the wheel on 3/4", it made a perfect width cut. I suspect that the center mechanism is worn.
I was thinking the same thing, He makes this look dramatically more difficult than it needs to be. Like in an infomercial when they try to use the competitors product first and make it look really clunky and difficult to work with.
You may have not noticed the crown or it was minimal but it's impossible for a wobble blade to cut a dado without a slight crown to it.
Not so!
I've used both and I think the difficulty in setting this one is most likely a result of it just being cheap. I have a *ahem* Harbor Freight wobble dado and the measurements given have little relation to the actual width of the cut. Since I got my stack dado I tend to us the wobble mostly for making crown mouldings, it cuts a nice cove and is considerably thicker and more rigid than a standard blade, a bonus when pushing wood through a blade the wrong way.
We have always used the wobble wheel. It is simple to set up and best thing is there is only one piece to mess with. Also I've never had to adjust the blade that many times to get a good fit. The measurements on our blade are pretty close to true.
Hi Colin, I just bought a Freud 208S set from the US, (still the best place in the world to buy woodworking gear). It should arrive in the UK in about a week. Happy days. Love your vids!
Thanks for watching!
where can i buy this blade at? thats good enough for me plus good on my budget :-) thanks for the video
Grizzly
onjoFilms
what do you mean grizzly?
dreamkiss4u Grizzly Machine and Tool
BrokenRRT would you Hapen to know where they sell it possibly?
dreamkiss4u grizzly.com
Nice coverage, I'm looking at a used one right now and was curious what exactly is this thing called an "Adjustable Dado". I knew about a stacked dado but not an adjustable one. Thanks so much for explaining and demonstrating it.
I have used a wobble dado for many years (since 1975) on my RAS, it now has marks scribed in it for the common thicknesses of material that I use, as a result setup is quick and easy.
My first wobbler was a toothed monster as described by "tkarlmann", it was a fearsome looking beast but cut pretty good dados, however at 6" diameter the cuts were not too clean.
My 'newer' Sears wobbler has a 24 tooth carbide saw-blade and at 8" cuts a very smooth slot.
I have a stacked dado set which I hardly ever use, though the fact that the maximum dado width it cuts is 3/16" might have a little to do with that.
Thanks for the video Colin.
Paul Tomlinson Thanks for not Paul, good to hear others experiences
in metalworking it's called drunken sawblade :)
+михаил карпухин lol ... love it
Also in hebrew
In MY workshop, it's not the BLADE that's drunk...
Hi Colin,sorry for a late comment ,I watched your video with great interest.
As a retired Engineer with a hobby of woodworking, may I comment the following.
There are number of ways to power a motorcar cheaper and less polluting system , why we do not use them? Simple, Major companies "OIL COMPANIES" do not like going out of business.
The same is with simple saw blade manufacturers, Daddo blades is an extra product can be soled with a nice profitable price.
Now back to the what you call it WOBBLE BLADE, SHOULD NEVER BE CALLED WOBBLE BLADE, as this creates doubt in majority of peoples mind...+ wabble ? must be a problem????? obviously someone got hold of one did not know what it was , continued playing with it then called it WOBBLE, it is adjustable daddo blade, should not create any additional vibration as it is rotating the displacement is a HARMONIC MOTION and also variable loads are so infinitesimal on the shaft the load is carried by the two bearings supporting the spindle either mounted on the motor shaft or twin bearing supported spindle.
Next point, this blades are normally are 7 1/2" Dia for a large daddo say 3/4" the height of the Arc for a 3 5/8" rad a blind man would love to see it, from the little knowledge I have most of the timbers do compensate for that variance.
My negligible knowledge says most of people use there blades until is totally blunt and do not sharpen them, even if they do probably is not in the original form as manufacturer's design.
Final point, to adjust the width you do not have to take the blade of the spindle, all you do loosen the nut and rotate the hub, actually you should measure the blade widths before even cutting a sample, HAVE YOU CHECKED THE EXTERNAL WASHER HAS A HORIZONTAL CUP PROFILE to lock the blade the correct way otherwise the centrifugal force will put pressure on the hub thus will change the daddo width.
Sorry for such a long winded comments.
I have always enjoyed your videos as they are informative, I hope you do not get offended, I have 2 of my neighbours keen woodworkers we tend to get together often we talk about RUclips infos.... YES WE HAVE COMPUTERS In Australia and we do get RUclips
Regards Colin
Jack Marashlian
Jack Marashlian - It seems to me that any infinitesimal vibration is not so much from the rotating blade by itself as it is from unequal side loading as it enters material at an angle. Your comment is like saying a bent bicycle rim doesn't wobble when it's not touching the ground.
Mr. Perry, due to the very small angle and the smooth progression of the angel from max to normal and to max again, the amount of "side loading" is both negligible and counter balanced. Remember, very few teeth are actually being effected at any given moment, and because each makes contact for such an extremely small amount the effect of side loading must be averaged over the entire blade accounting for each tooth (i.e. half - 1 to the left in varying degrees, 2 with no side load, and half - 1 to the right in varying degrees). The right and left forces are equal magnitude and opposite direction resulting in a ZERO average. The maximum lateral force (left or right) is significantly less than 1/3 the forward force applied to the 2 teeth that have no side load. Also, the cutting faces of these blades are so designed and oriented as to further significantly reduce this effect.
Finally, your analogy of a bent rim is completely incorrect. The offset here is not on the outside as in the rim, but rather it is in the alignment of blades center of mass to the axis of rotation. Think of the flutes on a drill bit. In cross section they form two overlapping circles and so can spin in perfect balance. However when viewed from the side the appear to such in one direction. The drill saw uses this to allow you to cut laterally after having drilled longitudinally. There is no actual wobble or vibration, it is all an optical illusion.
Yes, I use these all the time and they work really well. as Juan says, you ran the wood over the blade too quickly. Run the wood a little slower or run it through a second time and the cut will be flat at the bottom of the dado. The one that I own can be adjusted while it's on the arbor. The two pieces that clamp the blade are cambered. Just loosen the nut, and using two adjustable wrenches, hold the inside piece while turning the outside piece. Then tighten the nut.
why not just use a dato blade? this thing looks like it takes more time setting up than it would making a couple cuts.
Mine has markings on it and I have no problem turning the hub to the setting.
that would be much more simple. if that were the case then yes this would beat a dato blade
I have both and now I just reach for this one.
John Miller He futzedabout much more than was necessary. A good fence, some calipers and a couple of hand turns will eliminate much of the time he wasted, and u probably don't have to completely remove it to adjust it
TY youtube for recommending me this, i have definatly watched woodwork videos before.
Talk about a scary setup. I think I will stay with my stacked dado set. I can see why it is not so popular anymore. Thanks for sharing!
You can have my share of the stacked blades setup.
I have used this blade (Sears Craftsman model) for years and it is not any more dangerous than the stacking dado blade set. If you use it often enough, then you will learn how to adjust it with a lot more precision than shown in the video. As for the crown, I have never had a problem with it.
Nice intro to the world of wobble dado blades Colin.
Thanks Buddy, yes ... as you say a bit of an intro to those who have never seen them working
it is always the problem with the inches .... that is why the metric is better :P
+TJトマシュイェジーボタン I use both :)
+TJトマシュイェジーボタン We use both here
Yup, bought one brand new (Craftsman label) 38 years ago or so $49 brand new. Still have.. and still works amazingly well, but I tend to use router created dado joints where possible nowadays, because [wobbly] can indeed be fiddly to get just right. It can take a lot of tries - like you had to take in the video, but I guess I've been fortunate over the decades that prolonged tweaking has only happened a handful of times. Yeah, "real" dado blade sets are prohibitive in price - if you want the kind of quality that is in your typical "single" width blade. Thanks for reintroducing an old technology to today's woodworkers!
I have one of those never know what it was for
Hmmmmmmmmm,,,, don't think you should be working with a tablesaw,,,, ehhehehhheh
have used one marketed by Sears. Mine has two small locking screws and as the years have gone by I have made marks for standard size dados. What is so nice about these is I can adjust it for wood that has been planed to off size. Some old tools are better then new
Thanks for sharing the wobble Dado blade, I've used them both and very helpful for quick dado jobs with any woodworking skills.
I inherited one of these things and use it on a DEWalt radial arm saw. The combination vibrates the crap out of everything ! I end up making multiple cuts with a normal 3 mm wide table saw blade.
Hi Johann, actually in this case I think the vibration might be a good thing. Using dado blades or wobble wheels on radial arm saws can be a scary situation. Your alternative of making multiple cuts is a safe way to go .. good on you for doing this.
Thanks for demonstrating the adjustable dado cutter. I've used one for years and don't remember having as much trouble getting the width correct as you seemed to have. When you had the clamp on the test piece it was easy to see the tiny arc gap, but you had the clamp off center towards the top, contributing to a gap at the bottom. I never even thought about the curve at the bottom of the cut. I learned something. My biggest time waster with this tool was getting the edge of the cuts where I needed them. For example, if I needed the edge of the cut to be 1/2" from the edge of the wood, where did I measure from? I always had to rotate the wheel to find the tooth that went to that side the farthest, and then mark it with a felt tip pen, then bring it to the top and measure. It certainly is more adjustable than the stacked dado cutters.
I have one of these that has two blades . It makes it a easier to adjust because you can measure how far apart the blades are at the widest point. You can loosen the nut and make micro adjustments while it is on the arbor. Cuts a good flat bottom too.
Found one at a garage sale for $5! Gonna try it out and may post a video on my channel! Thank you for the video! It helped a lot!
WoodenCreationz Cool ... glad this helped, thanks for taking a moment to comment
Colin
Forget "measure twice, cut once" this video is never measure, keep cutting until it fits
thats why you have extra wood to test on, prototype dont work on a unique one of type thing XD
One could test cut after measuring (and adjusting if necessary).
I don't even have a table saw. i have a drill and some screw drivers.
Add a router and router table to your shop. Does a lot of neat things in a small work-space, stores on a shelf. Some very nice carbide tip kits out there. Only use US made carbide tips- my opinion.
Watch RUclips tutorials to see al the things you can do.
Bruce Woulda Get a jig saw and a skillsaw.
Mike K I'm so broke I don't think they want me trying to steal a table saw haha
keep searching, i bet you will find a jig how to turn your hand drill into a table saw.
Total cool! For me, a beginner, it's a great price for me to start. Never seen these before. Thanks for sharing!!
I've used wobblers since the early 80's, and in my experience the only drawback is the slight radius at the bottom of the cut. If you're working with plywood or MDF, and the gaps will be filled or covered with edge banding, then a wobbler is fine. When working with solid wood, and you can't hide the gaps, use a stack dado.
That thing cuts WAY better than my 8-tooth...
+alecjahn This one is getting a bit dull, I was also using in on a somewhat softer wood so that might be a bit of a difference too
I like my wobble better then my stacking set. Colin if you can see it, dial it in on the arbor. That’s how I set mine in. I also thought about drilling in a set screw on the side so I don’t have to second guess myself.
Used one on my radial arm saw. No issues. Plan to use it with my new table saw. I also marked it for 3/4" lumber. Found it worked well for unusually sized lumber. I do think a dado stack is the best, but this little unit gets the job done as well.
I bought a shopsmith last year, and on a budget decided to get a wobble dado from Harbor Freight. It works, but one thing I'm finding difficult, and this must be because of the fact that the SS table and motor aren't fixed to each other, is making a jig that is repeatable....rotating the blade to find the left/right - most tip is what's difficult. I think I might try making an insert just for the dado and see if that'll help. I'm sure it'd be 10x easier with a stacked set.
Phillip Kirkpatrick Sounds interesting, keep us updated on your progress Phillip
An interesting question...does your dado have a set screw too? If not, which doesn't look like it from the video, i wonder how it keeps its setting in place and not slip
Phillip Kirkpatrick No set screw, it holds it position from the friction of the acme nut on the arbor
Interesting. I looked at my SS last night, and was looking for a way to accurately setup the wobble, and It doesn't seem very easy. The 5/8 dado arbor is longer than the stock arbor. There is a bar underneath the table that the dado arbor runs into if i slide the table all the way to the motor, but that bar is slightly curved so a measurement from that to the arbor can't be too accurate. My best idea is to make an insert, and since the dado is smaller than the stock blade, i'll make a slot for the regular 10" blade as a 'key' for horizontal alignment...that key should never get eaten up by the dado no matter how deep I set it. The other thing I thought about was the dado widths, I'll likely make an insert for each size i'd use on the dado and use a razor or something to notch the exact position so it's repeatable.
Phillip Kirkpatrick Sounds like you have figured out a solution ... thanks for the note
This thing is pretty cool. Thanks for the demonstration.
Not very accurate and theres no easy way to see the width of the dado until its run. I'd sooner make the side cuts with a regular blade and clean out the center with a hand router.
+lunhil12 That's exactly what I was thinking. How are you supposed to measure accurately with that thing?
+Drew Almy The markings on them are only a rough guide and the adjustment is tricky when you aren't used to it, (you have to turn it about an inch to get an eighth width increase or decrease). Once you get what want, you scribe a line on it and you'll never have to do it again. Totally repeatable. I have lines all over mine. Like for 3/4", I have MDF 3/4" and the two plywood "3/4", and the close to 3/4" I use after running furring strips though the planer. I have a couple marked on there for when I stack beader board paneling on top of 3/8" and 1/2" plywood. Things that a stacked dado has problems with without tuning the fence and making multiple passes. The issue isn't so much adjustment, (because it's super awesome at adjustment), it's the fact that the blade doesn't stay sharp very long. You are removing a lot of material with a single pass and a single blade. If you have a way to sharpen the blade, you'll probably forget where you put the stacked dado. It's an idea that never really took off, I think because they are more expensive to make than stack and they cost less - less profit.
i suspect that given a lot of materials that people use that have a fair amount of thickness variance you may find it possible to get much finer fits with this, although at the expense of more trial and error.
I tried one of those wobbly monsters on a radial arm saw once. Scared me to death! Got rid of it and switched to a stacked dado blade. Also ditched the radial arm saw and got a table saw. Feeling much safer now! Whew!
LOL ... you are a braver man than I Johnny Rebel, trying wobble monster on a radial arm !!
An excellent posting on all points and amusing to read.
Many thanks buddy :)
Colin
I know why you're here... it's your recommendations...
So am I...
I bought one from Craftsman many years ago and has worked fine. If you leave it on the arbor you can do the fine adjustments without taking it out and adjusting it.
I didn't know a saw like that even existed! Finally, youtube recommends something is actually useful :)
I'm the opposite, I never seen the newer system with the shims before. the old wobble blades are not really this hard to get adjusted, his took a few tries because its been abused a bit and the measurements are out of alignment.
Great way to lose a finger or thumb. I run as fast as possible away from them.
James Stanlake Yes, if you are not comfortable using them - do not use them.
Do your homework, they are banned in the states because they caused so many injuries.
Ask OSHA. It is the nature of the way they cut. Without constantt even pressure and feed they can cause the material to shift creating the potential for kick back. Call me what you will but give me the old fashioned stack dado det
My reply was not taken from any research paper I created. I am a ordinary craftsman with many years of experience. You can go to any OSHA office or likely find reams of information from their website as well.
Now they did extensive research on wobble dado blades, not me.
@@jamesstanlake4064 Any source of the banning of the wobble saw on the internet? Only reference i can find on the OSHA website is "The practice of inserting wedges between the saw disk and the collar to form what is commonly known as a "wobble saw" shall not be permitted.". Seems to be about something else.
Well done, another mystery solved! I imagine that once you have "dialled" the blade in, it would be possible to glue some little vernier measurements to the "Zero" point of the saw blade. It would be interesting to see if the "Zero" is consistent when changing to other thicknesses. A vernier scale for those who may be wondering, is two sets of measurements set side by side on opposing pieces which move in relation to each other. The most common example is on a metal working lathe tool post, where fine increments of adjustment are possible by moving the post around the scale. Think of 10 degrees divided by 10, giving a total allowable of adjustment (by my understanding) of 100 divisions.
This is a great invention, in my opinion. Thanks for explaining.
1 minute of cutting , 11minutes of fast forwarding....
Colin I just purchased a new set from a guy in Idaho, He calls it an unmarked Irwin. It was a little rough as it wold not fit te arbor but I realized there was a burr and once filed down it fit great. The adjustment I found can be easily adjusted while on the arbor. I plan to use for box joints so I can make boxes. As old as I am I can adjust a few time if necessary,
Oh yes, the blade is new and I found it on ebay for $17 which includes $9 for shipping.. I sometimes feel out of place when watching videos on RUclips as I don't have $1000 + saws and other equipment
Good info, thanks Gary
I have the wobble blade and it does not and cannot cause a crown.
Barry Wind it can cause a crown, but not so much that the glue being used wouldn't completely fill it. It looks like less than 10° over 5"-6"... hardly anything
The crown would just be small or insignificant, nevertheless it would still be there. Taken to the extreme, if the blade were able to be set at 90°, then the crown is easy to visualize.
Barry Wind The old Vermont American 6" wobble dado that was also sold as the Shopsmith dado had carbide teeth that were ground to give you a flat bottom at 3/4". It wouldn't be and couldn't be flat at any other setting.
looks like his board he slid in was crowned
I bought one of these for 5 bucks. After watching this I gave it a go. Mine is very different than yours. It is a craftsman and adjusts the same way, but it is almost a star in shape. It has long thick arms with big teeth on the end. If I found one like yours I would give it a try but mine is horrible. I honestly made one cut and swore I would never use it again. The cut took about 4 seconds and I was terrified the whole time. I thought the saw was going to shake apart and I was going to die. It was set up properly, and my saw is probably about a medium weight. Its an old Rockwell and its certainly not tiny. I believe my blade is much beefier than yours and the extra weight caused excessive vibration. I would say If you see one of these star shaped blades STAY AWAY or better yet buy it and destroy it so no one else gets it and hurts themselves.
I have owned and used one of these for several years. They certainly give you the impression of wobble but I found they worked quite well. My biggest gripe with the tool was clearly depicted in this video in that to adjust, the blade must be removed from the arbor, loosened and adjusted. This adjustment was very hit or miss. Quite the pain taking it off and on, off and on. Other than the carbides flying off, which is true of all carbide tipped blades, I am not understanding in what other way they are dangerous.
I use my wobble dado blade all the time. Works good for the price. Those dado stack kits are really expensive.
2 spooky 4 me.
\\Skate-Make-Bike-Weld// dafuq? you scared of cabinet saw?
Memes
This video made me reconsider the wobble blade. I have been using a Freud Dial a Width blade on my Powermatic table saw. I remember the argument about the arch made by wobble dados and wanted a really flat bottom on my dados. But problems with the dial a width system started to appear early. The Powermatic's arbor is short and I couldn't use even the ¾ inch width so I use one of my routers to cut the larger dados. Then there was the problem of stacking the blades in the proper sequence. Not too easy. I keep a Freud blade sequence guide available. After that, there was the problem dialing the correct width, not unlike Colin's problem with the wobble blade. However adjusting widths with the wobble was still easier. The main problem is the wobble, but my table saw is sturdy. Maybe not a good idea for light duty table saws.
Colin's video showed very little arch gap in the finished joint. He solved that by squeezing the joint. Curious, I calculated the gap size for a 7 inch dado and it came out to 0.2553 mm. Pretty small unless you are worried about being extremely accurate.
I ordered a 7 inch wobble blade to replace the one I tossed out years ago.