Hey what did you need to do in order to put the 12 valve in it. What did you have to change to the ford in order for everything to work and fit? I was told engine mounts for one. But I don’t know what else. I have a 1979 Ford F150 4x4
transmission adapter plate and mount are big ones. Custom drive shafts are needed. radiator mounts and custom electrical parts needed. its a lot and takes time.
depending on your knowledge and skills its a solid maybe my full swap cost me about 10k thats with buying the motor and transmisson but i also made lots of mistakes.
I am looking into doing this same swap on my 1974 F-250 camper special 2wd. Where did you get the he motor mount for the engine swap. The only ones I can find are for a 4x4 only.
Hey! I have '79 F150 as well! I'm looking into a 12v swap as well. How hard was it? It doesn't seem too bad, but I'd love you thoughts on it as well! Awesome truck!
It is very labor intensive and cost me a lot of time and money. If your not some what experisnased in building cars or trucks i wouldnt try to take on this kind of huge project.
Hey man I’m lookin at doin the same to my 1976 f150 ranger but I’m worried that the 12v is too heavy for the frame and axels. Would it be fine to just swap or would I need to swap out the axels and maybe find a diffrent frame ? Thanks
I’m running all stock 1979 f-150 frame axel and leaf springs. It seems to handle it well so far I haven’t had any steering issues or breaking issues. I would say you’re fine just make sure you’re not being to harsh on it cause it’s not meant for the torque.
There's guys running 2000hp through the Ford 9 inch rear, so I think it'll handle pretty much any kind of power you can throw at it with this build if you were to put the right parts in it. The center section on these is so strong that I've seen people make hybrid axles with Dana outers and 9-inch center section for rock crawlers. It's a stout unit. That said, they're not really that strong for holding weight (which is why they use the Dana outers), so there's the tradeoff. I would say you may want to get a frame and axles with the right wheelbase for your truck from a 99+ Super Duty. Even the single rear wheel F250's of this era are single rear wheel 1 tons with lighter springs, and they're heavier duty than the earlier 1 ton Fords. the frames on those are the same all the way up to the F550, so you can build them out with the right axles/springs/tires to handle weights that would require a CDL to legally drive fully loaded. The Ford Sterling 10.25/10.5 rear axle is also a stout unit, and if you can get ahold of an 05+ chassis with a Dana 60 up front, you get 4 wheel disc brakes, front coils with a better turning radius, and the whole setup is basically bulletproof unless you go really extreme with the offroading stuff. Lots of parts available and you can safely max out any tire that will fit on a 16-inch rim without hurting that setup.
@@AbsurdAutomotive www.alpineco.com/media/documents/2015-Ford-f550_1571688216.pdf That's still the early Super Duty frame in 2015. They used the same frame from the F250 all the way up to the F550. 19,500 gvwr and 35,000 gcwr.
@@charlesramsey7847 personally I think a body swap would be easier and cheaper depending on how you did it. If you keep the fire wall I 100% think body swap would be cheaper. I have adapters and all the new electrical and custom drive shafts it gets expensive fast.
Hell yeah dude! Remember when that thing was getting turned into a beast!
Love that aftermarket dash insert. That's pretty trick.
A lot of hard work into the video Wyatt! Proud of ya bro and can say I’ve made a good buddy while this was getting built man
It was awesome to make some good friends while building this truck! Hopefully I will make many more!
Hey what did you need to do in order to put the 12 valve in it. What did you have to change to the ford in order for everything to work and fit? I was told engine mounts for one. But I don’t know what else. I have a 1979 Ford F150 4x4
transmission adapter plate and mount are big ones. Custom drive shafts are needed. radiator mounts and custom electrical parts needed. its a lot and takes time.
What is the quick 4? And what are you using for a cluster?? Looks great
im not sure on all of it I had a shop wire it up for me called Dakotas Battery in South Dakota.
so i have a 76’ f150 and everything on it is pretty much good but i want to put a 12 valve in it. Do you think i could do an engine swap under 7k?
depending on your knowledge and skills its a solid maybe my full swap cost me about 10k thats with buying the motor and transmisson but i also made lots of mistakes.
Is it the stock F-150 suspension
it is all stock suspension.
Awesome truck! Do you plan on turning up the power on the 12 valve? What kind of mpg do you get on the highway?
Maybe one day I’ll turn up the power but for now it does what I need it to and it gets about 20mpg in the highway
I am looking into doing this same swap on my 1974 F-250 camper special 2wd. Where did you get the he motor mount for the engine swap. The only ones I can find are for a 4x4 only.
I got my engine mounts from diesel conversions
Hey! I have '79 F150 as well! I'm looking into a 12v swap as well. How hard was it? It doesn't seem too bad, but I'd love you thoughts on it as well! Awesome truck!
It is very labor intensive and cost me a lot of time and money. If your not some what experisnased in building cars or trucks i wouldnt try to take on this kind of huge project.
Hey man I’m lookin at doin the same to my 1976 f150 ranger but I’m worried that the 12v is too heavy for the frame and axels. Would it be fine to just swap or would I need to swap out the axels and maybe find a diffrent frame ? Thanks
I’m running all stock 1979 f-150 frame axel and leaf springs. It seems to handle it well so far I haven’t had any steering issues or breaking issues. I would say you’re fine just make sure you’re not being to harsh on it cause it’s not meant for the torque.
There's guys running 2000hp through the Ford 9 inch rear, so I think it'll handle pretty much any kind of power you can throw at it with this build if you were to put the right parts in it. The center section on these is so strong that I've seen people make hybrid axles with Dana outers and 9-inch center section for rock crawlers. It's a stout unit. That said, they're not really that strong for holding weight (which is why they use the Dana outers), so there's the tradeoff. I would say you may want to get a frame and axles with the right wheelbase for your truck from a 99+ Super Duty. Even the single rear wheel F250's of this era are single rear wheel 1 tons with lighter springs, and they're heavier duty than the earlier 1 ton Fords. the frames on those are the same all the way up to the F550, so you can build them out with the right axles/springs/tires to handle weights that would require a CDL to legally drive fully loaded. The Ford Sterling 10.25/10.5 rear axle is also a stout unit, and if you can get ahold of an 05+ chassis with a Dana 60 up front, you get 4 wheel disc brakes, front coils with a better turning radius, and the whole setup is basically bulletproof unless you go really extreme with the offroading stuff. Lots of parts available and you can safely max out any tire that will fit on a 16-inch rim without hurting that setup.
At that kinda weight I might start bending the frame.
@@AbsurdAutomotive www.alpineco.com/media/documents/2015-Ford-f550_1571688216.pdf
That's still the early Super Duty frame in 2015. They used the same frame from the F250 all the way up to the F550. 19,500 gvwr and 35,000 gcwr.
How much to put a cummins in my k2500 4x4!
This was a personal project but if you need shop recommendations I have one or two
P-pump next brother ?
One day I’ll change it to a p-pump but for now I just want to get it running
what’s the mpg lookin like?
I get about 20 miles to the gallon
@@AbsurdAutomotive that’s pretty good. what do you think would be cheaper, body swap, or just straight install into the stock frane
@@charlesramsey7847 personally I think a body swap would be easier and cheaper depending on how you did it. If you keep the fire wall I 100% think body swap would be cheaper. I have adapters and all the new electrical and custom drive shafts it gets expensive fast.