@@thoroughbreddiesel iv worked in Diesel Ford shop for 23.5 years . Today i just picked up my first own 6 0 truck. I have been driving a 96 f250 7.3. The truck needs head gaskets, so im doing all the work myself.studs, standpipes, stc bracket, an anymore upgrades it may need. I love watchin your channel.
That wait between sequences is for torque to yield bolts due to the stretch causing heat heat that can potentially cause weakness but it’s still good practice with non torque to yield bolts
Wade, great video... I watch all your stuff. Question, I believe, or at least it appears that my rocker box gasket is leaking where it mates to the cylinder head a bit on both sides of the block closest to the firewall. Can I remove and then replace the rocker box without having to remove the 5, 10 metric 8's bolts on the top side of the rocker box that thread into the cylinder head?
I like the tip on waiting 24 hours between torque sequences. But what was his take on that advice on race day when they had to tear down and rebuild on the same day?
always wondered that myself. I guess his theory on that was to make hay on your first pass and go back to conventional tq sequences during the race day. Non racing, a torque a day keeps compression at bay.
Great video. Did you use a specific brand gasket on your rocker box/head or any grey rtv. I am doing this job bc of a leak and I don't want to do it twice. Lol.
Can these cylinder heads be performed in the cab as well can the heads be mounted first before the studs or do the studs needs to be installed before the head. Because I don’t really sis a big difference in it really.
@@thoroughbreddieselThe studs thats hard to get to needs to be in the cyl head before u sit it on the block, i use a cut piece of hose to keep the stud just above the cyl head surface when reinstalling the head.
Ive done nothing but torque to yeild, a 210 foot pound final seems too loose? I am about to do my own truck and really tempted to go back with OEM. A friend of mine whos done head studs says every time hes gone back into a head gasket it was studed? So lets start a discussion. Studs or torque to yeild? Im only running 300 to 400 hp. And i just don’t believe 210 final will hold
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🔥 We have head studs for many different make, model and year trucks! Order yours today!
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@@thoroughbreddiesel iv worked in Diesel Ford shop for 23.5 years . Today i just picked up my first own 6
0 truck. I have been driving a 96 f250 7.3. The truck needs head gaskets, so im doing all the work myself.studs, standpipes, stc bracket, an anymore upgrades it may need. I love watchin your channel.
That wait between sequences is for torque to yield bolts due to the stretch causing heat heat that can potentially cause weakness but it’s still good practice with non torque to yield bolts
Wade, great video... I watch all your stuff. Question, I believe, or at least it appears that my rocker box gasket is leaking where it mates to the cylinder head a bit on both sides of the block closest to the firewall. Can I remove and then replace the rocker box without having to remove the 5, 10 metric 8's bolts on the top side of the rocker box that thread into the cylinder head?
I am pretty positive that those bolts will have to be removed to get the rocker box off unfortunately.
Thanks for this video.
You're welcome.
Very great 👍 job
Thank you! Cheers!
Do you have a video of removing the cab??
No, but maybe soon.
I like the tip on waiting 24 hours between torque sequences. But what was his take on that advice on race day when they had to tear down and rebuild on the same day?
always wondered that myself. I guess his theory on that was to make hay on your first pass and go back to conventional tq sequences during the race day. Non racing, a torque a day keeps compression at bay.
Is it pretty easy to just install your head studs if the stock HG are still ok? With the cab on?
Yes, but give us a call if you have a question.
@@thoroughbreddiesel assuming 1 stud at a time in the correct order of course?
So is there a way to remove a rocker arm that’s bad/broken without removing a headbolt???
No
In your driveway.... where you happen to have a crane to remove the cab.... I'm buying one of these tomorrow, time to get some pricing on this job.
😂
Great video. Did you use a specific brand gasket on your rocker box/head or any grey rtv. I am doing this job bc of a leak and I don't want to do it twice. Lol.
We used the Mahle gasket here that was included with the top end kit.
Curious why you would prefer an impact socket over a chrome one
It is a high torque value that you go to, and a impact socket is designed to handle higher torques that are applied via impact guns, etc.
To bullet proof a 6.0 whats something like that cost ?
Give us a call 1-859-737-4966.
Can these cylinder heads be performed in the cab as well can the heads be mounted first before the studs or do the studs needs to be installed before the head. Because I don’t really sis a big difference in it really.
If you leave the cab on, the heads will go on first and then the studs will be installed.
@@thoroughbreddieselThe studs thats hard to get to needs to be in the cyl head before u sit it on the block, i use a cut piece of hose to keep the stud just above the cyl head surface when reinstalling the head.
What year truck is this, sir?
This was a 2006 F250.
I’m hoping to find someone who can tell me how to remove a broken standpipe from a 6.0 power stroke F250.
I hope someone can here too. Depending on how deep it is you may need to go ahead and pull the head.
Depend on how broken he is sayin it is. Iv used neddle nos vice grips to get the stuck ones out before.@@thoroughbreddiesel
how hard is this to do with the cab/body in place
Its not bad at all, can be done either way. The key is getting all of the cab bolts out.
Do you ever get "spring-back" when torquing the nuts? Mine are lubed and still want to spring back about a 1/16".
Lube on the threads is probably causing this.
GONNA HAVE A HARD TIME WITH THOSE FUEL LINES. THEY ARE VERY HARD TO RUN IN THE RIGHT SPOT AFTER THE HEAD IS INSTALLED
Was in the 6.0 game.. but I gotta say....feels a lot better being in the 6.7 game..😆
Ive done nothing but torque to yeild, a 210 foot pound final seems too loose? I am about to do my own truck and really tempted to go back with OEM. A friend of mine whos done head studs says every time hes gone back into a head gasket it was studed?
So lets start a discussion. Studs or torque to yeild? Im only running 300 to 400 hp. And i just don’t believe 210 final will hold
Gator studs. Comp series 265ft lbs on head studs and will never had another issue