DIY Mini-Me Bridgeport Feed Handle.
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- In this video I show you how to copy or replicate complex curved forms using a manual lathe. The project is to make an 80% scaled replica of a feed handle from a Bridgeport Milling machine.
You can subscribe to Matty's Workshop channel here: / matty%e2%80%99sworkshop
Gday Mark, thank you for the shout out and kind words, the speed handle handle turned out absolutely awesome, this is much better then the original one, I’ve been searching for a scotch brite wheel but there only in the USA, I need to search more, I’m very keen to see the new project, that looks extremely interesting, thanks again mate, cheers Matty
Matty, one of my viewers sent me this link on Aliexpress. They are only 25mm wide and I can't vouch for the quality but it might be similar www.aliexpress.com/item/33030558113.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ded7ab0l2cSsx&algo_pvid=a0e5b3a3-3e11-4ab4-8ff1-9adbbadc9dbe&algo_expid=a0e5b3a3-3e11-4ab4-8ff1-9adbbadc9dbe-26&btsid=0b0a556c16119181390612718e308e&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Regards,
Mark
....... “well, he said a lot of other shit too...... “ that’s funny stuff right there. Your shop teacher would be so proud you remember him ALL these years later. Nice handle. 👍👍😎👍👍
Your engineers approach to these projects is always a pleasure to watch. I'm sure there are some skilled old timers out there saying oh I could knock that out freehand without all that measuring and "computering". Your computer knowledge and mechanical skills are amazing. Thank you for sharing them.
Jim, normally I'd hate to say it but it's about the journey rather than the destination. The temporary handle I made worked fine and there was no real need to day anything much more elaborate but there's something deeply satisfying about making something that works well rather than just "works".
Thanks for watching.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I completely understand Mark. You're talking about the fun part of a project and everytime you use that handle you will re-live that part of making it. Knowledge + Skill = Satisfaction.
What? Oh sure I will take a beer while we wait for the others to catch up....thanks! And thanks for showing us how to do the handle. Brilliant!
Hi Preso - that was a very interesting method for making the handle. Almost CNC! The buffing wheel does such a great job. I am looking forward to mine coming in the post. Looking forward to the big upcoming multipart project. Cheers, Craig
Thanks Craig. I am making some progress on the clock. It's got so many parts it's hard to know where to start. I have three patterns made up for some castings and I have just ordered some new powder coat. I am thoroughly sick of my Ender 3 printer and I am thinking of biting the bullet and getting a Prusa instead. The Ender only just printed the patterns that I needed.
Regards,
Mark
Nice ducks, nice metalworking!
Mark Presling --- I like your layout, it was clearly explained. I have used a similar technique many years back.
I thought it died with the dinosaurs. It was refreshing to view your video. Two thumbs up.
Thanks for that. No, it's still a valid technique. Some years ago I made a model jet engine and the compressor intake shroud had to be parabolic in section and it had to follow the shape of the compressor wheel which was actually a small turbocharger compressor. The clearance was something like 0.1mm and the shape of the diffuser was also a complex curve The build data included a table with X and Y co ordinates and it was turned in exactly the same way. The only issue was the all the curves were concave and internal to the turned part but it worked out in the end and the engine runs although it scares the living daylights out of me when it lights up. ruclips.net/video/N7F4Bp-TcTA/видео.html
Mark --Thank you for the video link. That was some impressive footage. I can 100% appreciate how you plotted the shape to .1mm clearance. I understand totally, I am old mold maker. Making a shapely part that has a core and cavity to close tolerances is similar. Again, our plotting techniques are old school.I'm one of the "Over the Hill Gang"
@@Preso58
My mouth is going to get a speeding ticket. I used to make Lathe Turned multiple cavity molds. I hydraulically traced precision templates using a True Trace.The core and cavity templates had to match. Again, sometimes I had to use your plotting techniques to make the templates.
@@Preso58
@@TangentJim I was shocked one day when I was visiting a shipyard for a tour and one of the engineers referred to some of the old guard as "greybeards" I thought, "hang on, he's talking about me!
I specifically liked your shirt, Mark. Go , Canada, go !!!.
Thanks Eh! Yes, my wife and I loved Canada. We have been several times and I was able to work with a teacher and three students from Winnipeg. We met in London and competed in the 2009 F1 in Schools competition. We placed first in our class and third outright in the world and earned the right to visit McLaren F1. In my view, Canadians and Australians are just microns apart in our culture and sense of humour but I must say that the first time I tasted poutine I wondered why the hell are we making such a fuss over meat pies?
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Great. Next time you are in Canada - you visiting us. I live near Ottawa, have a metal/wood working shop and have few places nearby that serving the best poutine in the world :)
Tut tut, fileing in the lathe chuck; with your watch on!! Nice way to do it though, I need a new handle on the tailstock of my Colchester, been like that for 30 years, maybe I'll get it done before Christmas.
Love the humor.
Handle truned out nice.
Hello Mark,
The approach was very good, turning the steps and then using the files... Thanks for showing us how to do it...
Take care.
Paul,,
When can we do a sticker swap? mark.presling@gmail.com
@@Preso58 that would be great Mark. I have emailed you my details. Thank you.
Used to go to Eden a lot when I was in the navy to receive and unload ammo for the ships. Gorgeous spot
Loved it Mark great video.
Nice to see that Preso is also a fan of Rebuilding Tally Ho with Leo from Sampson Boat Co !
Yes, I am a big fan. I started watching one very rainy day here at home and I think I binge watched the first 10 episodes and I now look forward to the fortnightly updates. Hats off to Leo!
Regards,
Mark
She's a looker! Great to see this come together. Nice technique on the handle, the quality time spent polishing really paid off.👊👍
I like the methodology. Great execution. Looks like an OEM part.
Nice one Mark. Your attention to detail is unsurpassed. I made a speed handle for my vise a few years ago and it's awesome. I can't even remember where the factory handle is any more. Every vise should come with one from the factory. They would probably be cheaper to manufacture than the factory one as well.
Brilliant work - thanks mate. Now I know how to do it.
No problem 👍
Regards,
Mark
Turned to perfection 👌👏👏👍😀
If only I had the Turnado when I did that job.
Regards,
Mark
Another fantastic video. Thanks for sharing Mark!
Great job using the belt sander and scotchbrite wheel with the hand drill! Looking forward to you next series of videos.
I'm interacting to show my support for the channel.
Michael, thanks for that. I'm glad you are enjoying the content.
Regards,
Mark
Awesome work as usual! I remember watching an episode of Build Something Cool where one of Dale's guest turned a similar handle on a lathe using a tool rest and a chisel.
Technically, I know it can be done but I wouldn't be game. I did actually just purchase a "Turnado" freehand turning attachment for my lathe. It will make an appearance in future videos.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Cool! I can wait for the next batch of videos. The Australian government should honor you with a medal for your outstanding national contribution. I can hear the ceremony speech right now, "Australia is more than about AC/DC, the Bee Gees, Crocs, Kangaroos and didgeridoos. Just as America has TubalCain, but we have Presley..."
While it isn't or wasn't important in your case, when taking photos for part recreation and to reduce parallax error, use a camera with a zoom lens or telephoto and stand back away from the part as far as you can and zoom in on it. This will remove a lot of the parallax or fish eye you get from a lot of photos. Use this all the time in 3d Art for fine accuracy and guessing when reproducing anything.
Nice job as always Presso
Matty has a great channel and is a great guy. I always love the creativity on his channel. Thanks Mark
Yes but now he's upstaging me with drone footage of his kangaroo population! Drones! How can I compete with that. 😁
@@Preso58 No problem Mark I always love your nature shots as well.
Very nice handle Mark.
Mark, see you rockin an Alberta Banff shirt looking good.
Banff! Such a different place to where I live. The one take away memory we saw were the bear bridges over the Ice Field Parkway. Oh, and we got a parking ticket in Banff for parking near a fire hydrant! 🙄
Regards,
Mark
I watched a YT video some time ago where someone made a handle starting with turning step rings but finished using a method borrowed from wood turning. A boring bar was used as the support for HSS cutter set in a long wooden handle for leverage.
I was quite surprised but this technique worked quite well with shallow cuts on low speed.
In the end the handle only needed a little polishing.
It it also looked much safer than filing in a spinning chuck and less messy than sanding.
The handle was made from steel, on metal lathe.
@CurlyG65 the carbide used for wood is much different than for metal.
I looked closely at a few of the inserts for wood and they looked as if the cutting edge was ground for very thin, razor sharp edge. Those inserts also chip easily. I would not even try them on steel. The fellow in the video used high speed steel cutter set in a 12-16”(?) handle that looked to me like a thick dowel.
And yes, he was old :-)
I have seen Clickspring doing a lot of hand turning but mostly in brass. I actually just bought a "Turnado" freehand turning kit from Eccentric Engineering. It's going to feature in some upcoming videos.
Regards,
Mark
Oh boy, another cool clock previewed
Yes, this one's going to have the lot! Metal casting, anodising, powder coating, woodworking, laser cutting.... you name it. 😁
Regards,
Mark
The handle looks very nice. Very well done.
I was hoping you would do the final shaping with a graver, really old school.
Dave.
Hey, I'm not Clickspring! 😄 I recall reading a long series of articles in the UK version of Model Engineer on freehand metal turning. It seemed like an invitation to disaster. I have just purchased a "Turnado" freehand turning accessory for my lathe. It should feature in upcoming videos.
Regards,
Mark
As always from you, a great preso P.reso :)
Nice job , polishing can be a royal pita if your looking for mirror finish . Even then its bound to get a big hit or gouge . I do like the non rotating handles for vises over spinners . I have one I made using an old stripped trailer ball for the handle it works well on my vise. Easy to grab n use. Tough to machine but its a honking handle.
G'day Mark very nice job there is a lot in it I'm thinking about doing the handles on my lathe and mill and I sure that it will be a marathon. Thanks for you help regards John Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
John, the first one's the hardest.
Regards,
Mark
I am looking forward to the "lixie/nixie' video series!
Ah! I've christened it a "Mixie" M for mesh which will form the front screen of the display. It's going to be an epic build. I have just ordered some new powder coat colours for it.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 👍👍👍
Interesting on how you went about turning the handle. Basically you stepped roughed the contours similar to a CNC lathe would the hand shaped the finish. However I actually agree with your comment the spinning handle is better, and on my personal handle I used that rotating style. Great job
Excellent demonstration Mark, It takes a good deal of discipline to follow out the plan, but how else do you guarantee success. Nice polishing job, and I love the Banff tee shirt! Cheers!
Banff actually reminded me a lot of Noosa. Normally it's full of international tourists (not now though) and everything is expensive and you can't find a parking spot anywhere. On a six week holiday, Banff was the only place we got a parking ticket. Evidently there are fire hydrants everywhere and you can't park within half a mile of one without getting busted.
A truly lovely place though and so different to the "wide brown land" where I live.
Regards,
Mark
Nice shirt Mark. I live 6 hours from Banff
Ahh, then you live in a very pretty part of the world. We loved driving along the Icefield Parkway. It's so different to where I live. Ours isn't called the "wide brown land" for nothing.
Regards,
Mark
Interesting way of going about this
Hi Mark! Thanks for all your on these videos! If I remember correctly you have a mill that has been CNC'd. Look up "Using a CNC mill as a lathe". Makes the curves even easier.
Well, as it turns out, I just ordered and paid for a Turnado freehand turning attachment for my Colchester lathe. It would have done this job easily. However it's still a freehand turning operation and as such it may or may not create an accurate scaled copy of the original handle. The CNC mill as a lathe process does at least guarantee some accuracy in terms of form. My copy of Mach Std Mill does have the mill/turn capability but I thought I would show a process that lathe only operators could use.
Regards,
Mark
Good Show Mate...as per normal. You know an old broom handle would have done almost as well. You just wanted to make it pretty. Don't blame you. Pretty stuff just works better. That was fun!
Beautiful work!
nice work
That came out awesome! Nice work!
a big thank you for the info on importing the pic to the cad. you just saved me days of ??? take care stay safe . tone uk.
Those guys at Autodesk think of everything. I actually went to their headquarters in San Francisco back in 2016. We were given a tour of their maker space down in the pier district and we got a bit of a demo of Fusion360 just as they were rolling it out as a cloud based product.
Regards,
Mark
Great video! I have a very similar vise and will make something similar. No casting, though. And if you think it's difficult to open a non-screwtop beer bottle (in a workshop!), then you hardly deserve it! The beer, that is... ;-)
I laughed my fool head off at 26:43 "EEEEHHHHHHHHHH!!!" Well done and a very interesting process, I'm going to have to do this my own self.
Well, I'm glad you laughed. I finished that edit and thought, this could get me into some serious sh*t right here. I once had a viewer take me to task after I suggested that the metric system was both logical and easy. His argument was that NASA got a man to the moon on the back of hardware made using imperial inches. My gut feeling was that it had nothing to do with the system of mensuration and more to do with unlimited budget and their admirable zero defect policy.
Thanks for watching,
Regards,
Mark
Superb job👍👌
Thanks for watching
Great tool, great job, thanks
good job
I like it
Great videos thanks for sharing
I did my homework! Honest 🤠
Looks great, Mark 😀! I need to make a better handle for my lathe, the aluminium turns my fingers all grey 🤣. Just started dabbling with fusion 360, maybe I'll give your method a shot 😁 (lots of curviness involved 😊). Gonna love that steampunk clock, can't wait 🤩. Pretty much my favorite theme. Cheers mate! Great video!
The clock's going to be an epic build. I started printing the pattern for the base last night and it's still going 13 hours later!
Mark- don’t know if you will see this, but if you slit your belts to a narrow width, like 1/2”-3/8”-1/4” you can do the inside of your work without issue. For your mental toolbox, or the next time you encounter similar jobs.
Thanks. I have done that before and I also made a couple of custom back plates for my belt grinder with different radii on them. I just got lazy and used what was already set up.
Regards,
Mark
Question. Could you take an appropriately sized salad bowl, cut a hole in the bottom, then mount it over the chuck? Or use a round plate with a hole in it mounted on a stand sitting in the chip tray.
I guess so but I am thinking that die hard machinists would think me a wuss!
Regards,
Mark
Nice. Could you laser your logo into the powder coat and fill it with a contrasting colour? Or is it not thick enough?
You can laser engrave through the powder coat finish and if the underlying material gives enough contrast you can then just clear coat over the top. I guess at the end of the day, how much do you want to see your own name plastered over everything you own. I mean, I'm not Jimmy DiResta! 😁
That is one mean handle Mr Presling
G’day Mark, nice work mate. I had a chuckle with the opening scenes. Oh, it was great to see Matty feature and make the sticker board. Hey, who’s that DCT bloke? 🤣
Maybe that DCT guy is the teacher that was always talking s**t 😁
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Hahaha, yup you got that right 😉
Need to visit Banff and Eden once this Covid crap has subsided. Thanks for sharing your skills and making us laugh.
Enjoyable and instructional as always. And a nice handle to compliment the whole project. The whole thing is quite refined. The ducks were interesting, too. Shape and size wise they are no different then the ones we have in the Eastern US. Only the colors and markings differ. Why would that be?
Wow, the eastern US coast is a long way from the eastern Qld coast. Surely they aren't migratory? Those poor ducks mate every year in Winter and the chicks hatch out in spring. We often see up to 12 chicks and the numbers dwindle as the weeks go on. Our English settlers did a sterling job releasing foxes for "sport" and now the native birds and mammals suffer the consequences.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 invasive species...gotta love it. Is there any instance of this being beneficial? And then somebody in China eats a bat! It all rolls into one...
For your parting blades try grinding them with a lot less nose relief, I like 3 degrees, slow speed, maybe 25-50 surface feet (8-15M) per minute, plenty of oil and a pretty aggressive feed
Thanks, I realised after that I had too much front relief on the blade.
Regards,
Mark
Absolutely loving your videos Mark, been watching all week. I know this is a tough question since you don’t have your eBay shopping history, but I’m in the market for a genuine 3M wheel - specifically for the purposes of achieving Satin finishes on my Brass, Aluminium & Stainless projects. The 3M Scotch-brite is available in the MU-WL Silicone Carbide (Grey Colour) or the MF-WL Aluminium Oxide (Maroon Colour) - and I have no idea which one to pick. Do you remember what colour your wheel was when you purchased it new? Maybe they’re both the same & the Satin finish simply depends on how long you buff the items for... I’m not sure, but any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks kindly Mark & keep up the great work. Nickolas
Nikolas, I bought my Scotchbrite wheel on Ebay and it was grey when purchased new. I have been unable to find another supplier of exactly the same wheel but this one may be similar www.amazon.com.au/uxcell-Thick-Abrasive-Polishing-Buffing/dp/B0719S6Y8N/ref=sr_1_37?crid=YFSOZ1L2YDSJ&keywords=scotch+brite+deburring+wheel+8&qid=1687606257&sprefix=scotchbrite+deburrin%2Caps%2C261&sr=8-37
The genuine Scotchbrite wheels are very expensive >$200 shipped from the USA to Australia. However mine wasn't a genuine Scotchbrite wheel but it is still nearly the same size as when I first purchased it about 5 years ago.
Regards,
Mark
Nice result Presso 👍 Reminded me of the way my dad made reamers for boring recorders ( and they sure weren't boring the way he played 😁)
Was wondering how close the inside curve was to the diameter of the idler wheel on your belt grinder, might have been an easier way to smooth/finish.
Oh, you can also get scotchbrite belts to suit your belt grinder.
🍺
Bill, the contact wheel was way too big to get to the inside curve of the handle. I wish I had one of those Radius Master belt sanders with the interchangeable contact wheels. Some years ago I bought two of those Scotchbrite sanding belts and put them aside for when I might need them. Some years later I put them on the machine and they promptly broke right at the seam. Evidently they don't like being stored in humid environments.
Regards,
Mark
The Radius Master is a brilliant machine 😍 If you can afford one you won't regret it.
You could bore a hole in the crank and fit a press in bearing to pass the threads thru locking it in with a nut.
You made me thirsty and I don’t even drink anymore
Thanks Yuchol. Just havin' fun over here. 😁
Regards,
Mark
Great...
The generic term for Scotch-Brite wheels is "Non-woven wheel" that's what the sellers call them at least.
Hi Mark, would you be able to public the work sheet with all the measurements to make this handle?
Jim, try this link www.dropbox.com/s/n9kb403z0ul3rzl/bridgeport%20x%20handle.pdf?dl=0
Let me know if it doesn't work and I'll try to figure out another way.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thanks Mark, it loaded perfectly to my dropbox.
When filing, left hand on the handle, right hand on the tip. The spinning jaws of the chuck are just waiting to rip your carpal tunnel open. Not a safety nazi, I'm just left handed and this is one of the few times "my way" is definitely the right (correct) way LOL. I've also found slowing the spindle when filing works better. At high speeds, the chips clog up faster than you clear them and it scratches the finish, especially on aluminum. I made a tri spoke speed handle for my vise with golf ball handles.
Barry, just after I finished the edit on that video I realised I hadn't addressed the left hand issue. When I was teaching I always demonstrated how a left hander should hold a tool or carry out an operation and I actually got pretty good at being ambidextrous with tools. But filing in the lathe is one of those operations that doesn't translate well to left handed operation. Would it work running the lathe in reverse and holding the file underneath the work? Not so easy to see where you are placing the contact point of the file though.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I think you are misunderstanding the mechanics. You hold the file with the handle in your left hand. The right hand holds the tip and is the hand reaching over the work (on the tailstock side). Your left arm should NOT be draped over the spinning chuck. anyhow, nuff of the safety talk.
Thank you Mark!
Subd
If you want to just copy a handle at 1 to 1 scale, just stick the handle in the tail stock and stick mag base on the cross slide with an indicator running on the handle, you can then use the indicator to tell you to dial in or out to trace the handle.. you can also make a flat patern and weld it to a piece of round so it can be held in the tailstock.. tom Lipton showed this trick in one of his videos, it's an easier way than doing it in steps and it's much harder to screw up
That method would work quite well if you were making a 1:1 replica. I have a Turnado freehand turning accessory that allows for machining parts with a flat pattern however, my problem was that I wanted to make a replica of the handle form but also scaled down to a smaller size. The step turning method is a bit more laborious but you can make scaled up or scaled down versions of the original form.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Tom wanted a little handle and he just printed out the size he wanted and glued it to a piece of 1/8th plate and belt sanded that to the line and tacked it to some round so it could go in a drill chuck.. it's a lot less finishing that way.. it'd be interesting to see that attachment you have, i've never seen one of those before.. Tom showed that trick about 10 years ago and I've just copied it whenever something like that comes up and it's been a life saver especially since I don't have a belt sander
the sockets are steel, just slap a decent magnet on the bottom of the vice and let it stick to them (if you wanted to)
I'm guessing it would be a swarf trap? In reality I hate having magnets around my shop. They are both a blessing and a curse. I have a real pet hate for tools like scribes and allen wrenches that get magnetised and attract furry bits of metal dust.
Regards,
Mark
Another project you could make, if you run out of things to make, is a mini lathe for the Bridgeport so you can use a ball nose cutter for making handles such as this one. If you dip your whole hand in motor oil before using the handle your hand will slip very nicely around the handle without sticking, kidding of course....
Craig, as it happens, I just splashed out on a Turnado freehand turning system as sold by Eccentric Engineering. It would have worked perfectly for this application. I will be using it in the next clock build that I do.
Regards,
Mark
@30:00 toilet roll paper holder with a clock, radio and gauge? Genius! I guess there's an ESP chip hidden there that can order more if the gauge is low.
That's it! You've nailed it. 😁
Regards,
Mark
Actually it does have an ESP chip!
I think if you ripped your sanding belt to a narrow strip it may have helped do that inside radius
Funny you should mention that. It just reminded me that I made a series of backing plates of different radii to suit narrow belts. Either I'm getting some sort of dementia or I have too many tools! No, wait. You can never have too many tools!
I wish you could see my wild handles that I just made for my vise spinny tightening down thing!!
Wild handles are a thing? Make a video! We'd all love to see them.... 😁
Regards,
Mark
👍👌
That was a relatively bugger-free video!
I told you planning pays off!
Regards,
Mark
Mark could you possibly provide the name of the software you used to draw the print. A link would also be lovely if you have it.
I use Autodesk Inventor but it's very expensive to purchase.www.autodesk.com.au/products/inventor/overview?plc=INVPROSA&term=1-YEAR&support=ADVANCED&quantity=1 I am able to get it through a special deal that Autodesk did with schools who were involved with the F1 in Schools Programme. Fusion360, also an Autodesk product will do the same thing and it's free for hobbyists or you can use it on a subscription model. www.autodesk.com.au/products/fusion-360/subscribe?mktvar002=4219702%7CSEM%7C10948779003%7C105857266005%7Ckwd-11029869505&ef_id=CjwKCAiAgc-ABhA7EiwAjev-j73XXnHbJvTbPAStqEROSa3h8JecpMEaBq0o5EQuNEfNPlKd6ho5cxoCpLQQAvD_BwE%3AG%3As&s_kwcid=AL!11172!3!490520580616!e!!g!!fusion%20360!10948779003!105857266005&gclid=CjwKCAiAgc-ABhA7EiwAjev-j73XXnHbJvTbPAStqEROSa3h8JecpMEaBq0o5EQuNEfNPlKd6ho5cxoCpLQQAvD_BwE&plc=F360&term=1-YEAR&support=ADVANCED&quantity=1
@@Preso58 So do I understand you right Fusion will also draw from a jpg ?
@@terrycannon570 yes it will
No wrist watch while working on lathes.
Why? I have been doing this for over 40 years and I must say I have never thought that I had dodged a bullet at any time when using a lathe or any other machine tool for that matter. Loose clothing is a hazard. I once saw a student get his baggy T shirt caught up in a part he had knurled. He had switched the lathe over to high speed to do some chamfers and the shirt got wrapped around the knurl. One minute he was wearing a shirt and the next he had some very impressive burns around his shoulders, neck and armpits. (he wasn't in my class). I have taught thousands of students how to run a lathe and once again there has never been an incident where a wristwatch has caused an injury.
In my view, hazards are identified by the frequency and severity of the injury to the operator. So, frequency, nil. Severity, nil. I'm not saying it cannot happen. Just that it rarely happens enough to warrant blanket bans.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I've never worked on a lathe, but I did on the very first automatic electromechanical telephon systems "rotary" (yes, very old machines), they moved very slowly but they were unstoppable, many people thought there was no risk on a machine turning so slowly too, some do not have hands anymore. It's Murphys law, if it may grab it WILL grab it. It does not happen until it happens, and then it is too late. Maybe you are right and there is no risk, but you know, time changes things a lot, all are computers now but there is still wall clocks everywere at work, they were there so no one had to wear a watch... ;-)
You think a sixer of craft brew from Wisconsin would make it halfway round the globe to you with at least one intact? If I don't have to donate a kidney in shipping, I want to find out.
I must say I did a trip to the USA back in 2016 and went to a few bars in Seattle and San Francisco and I went back home thinking that all American beer tasted like watered down horse youknowwhat (Coors) or medicine. But then I went back in 2018 and had some awesome craft beers. The same sort of thing happened here about 10 years ago. There are now so many choices it's tempting to try them all! 😁
Regards,
Mark
Blackwoods have the 3M buffing wheels a little more dollars than getting them from USA
Peter, the genuine 3M ones are expensive but they last for years. The one I have must be at least 4 years old and it's only 10mm smaller than when I got it.
Regards,
Mark
It’s counter intuitive but try a more aggressive feed rate to get rid of chatter. You should be able to plow through leaded steel🤨
I know. But I get very nervous around parting tools. When things go south it gets very kinetic and it happens with little warning. 😱
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark, not trying to be a smart A$$, but in case your interested; Abom79 use to do what I'll call Machine Shop visits. You would get to see how different people setup their shop's etc., get some tip's. On one visit that I'll always will remember, was with a older gentleman, who use to make the very handle(s) your talking about. In trying to keep it to 30 words or less, he did so, EXACTLY AS YOU WOULD ON A WOOD LATHE, but did it on a metal lathe. He had a custom tool post rest (very similar to a wood lathe, just a lot smaller,) also like the tools (length) used on wood lathes, he just adapted a metal cutter (via welding / brazing) to the handle of say a bigger / longer screw driver / pry bar. All done via FREE-HAND, and a caliper used to copy from an original part, no numbers involved, think go-no-go gauge, pre dial-caliper. If I remember correctly, under 10 - 15 minutes. I gonna see if I can't find that video. Well here's the guy I'm talking about, but in this video he's using what I call modern measuring equipment. Randall Pettus --- does tear shaped metal lathe handle(s) by hand. ruclips.net/video/BDtrDv6uZTs/видео.html Turning Metal by Hand Aug 23, 2016
Dale Derry (from Metal Tips and Tricks)
Part of the trick, is to work from the TOP, not the side / middle. See @ 10:15 of the video. Couldn't find Abom79 & Randall Pettus. If I remember correctly, with Abom, Randall really did it more old school.
Loverly chatter at 10:25
I know, but you will be pleased to know that I worked out what I was doing wrong with the tool geometry. I had too much clearance and that was affecting the rigidity of the cutting edge. I reground the tool almost square and it now cuts like a champ.
Regards,
Mark
Wood ducks? They look more like meat ducks 😜
I guess if you were hungry enough?
Regards,
Mark
Mark -- I sent you an e-mail, you never responded . Check your junk box .
Hi, I couldn't find any emails delivered to my email inbox. The comments on my RUclips channel appear in the "social" tab and they are delivered from RUclips. I did check my spam and junk inboxes but could not find anything that you might have sent. Try sending direct to mark.presling@gmail.com
Regards,
Mark
Mark, I sometimes wish that I could study with you. My only problem is that I live in Delaware, USA. Enjoyed this project.Thanks.
Maybe one day! Holographic virtual reality maybe?
Regards,
Mark