How to Replace Head Gasket & Timing Chain - 2007-2013 R56 MINI Cooper non-S Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- How to replace cylinder head and timing chain for non-Turbo MINI Cooper with N12 or N16 engine.
Mod MINI's Tools: amzn.to/2QEMznK
Gen 2 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2A6rygv
If you still have codes, replace VANOS solenoid(s)? (2 for N12, N16, N18, 1 for N14). amzn.to/2S7Jrp7
This scanner is the cheapest that can reset adaptations on some/most MINIs. amzn.to/2FRsnOt This one will definitely work. amzn.to/2SdDjeX
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Man, I’m a tech, was looking for a video to show someone how to do this without actually being there. You make EXCELLENT VIDEOS. If anyone else asks me for help on minis again, I’m sending them to your channel first. Thanks man.
Just want to say your videos are the best on RUclips period, you cover every detail to the tee without excessive unnecessary talking, expert knowledge, expert editing and most of all No annoying music that everybody hates at the opening of the video or during the video. I greatly appreciate the time and effort you put into making the ultimate RUclips videos.
Thank you Mod MINI, I just finished my 2011 Countrymen. I had a miss fire and thought it was the head gasket. Ended up that it was a burned valve. Watched your video step by step. It runs like new.
ModMini is not just a RUclips channel, it's a phenomenon! Thanks for all your hard work and straight to the point videos!
You’re a lifesaver man! I was able to successfully do a head gasket job on my 2013 Mini Cooper S i had to do some different things but it was roughly the same as this one! Thank you for making this video
I was just given a free 2007 mini cooper S that the owner says he failed to take care of the timing chain maintenance so this video is in my future. All of this work I can do myself and I was amazed about how deep ya gotta dig into the car to just get the head off...but that's fine. It was all doable for me UNTIL the end where it was said there needed to be a computer reset. I have an OBDII but that's probably not going to do it. I think I can keep my head...probably just a couple bent valves. Not sure why the computer needs to be reset.
Outstanding, having just completed a timing chain replacement without the benefit of having seen this video makes me qualified to say, the tips presented here will save tens of hours vs procedures described in the Bentley manual.
So nice that now they finally learned to set timing not when cylinder 1 is TDC but when all cylinders are at mid height.
THANK you for being the only video to clarify that the crank locking pin locks all the cylinders in time. I blew up my engine months ago, and was able to salvage the cylinder head. The new short block wasn't in time, and I've been scouring all over the internet to find something to match the time for the cams to the cylinder position.
At the 1:15 mark you can clearly see that 2 of the pistons are at top dead center, yet you have the flywheel locking tool in place? How can this be?
This is my first venture into a mini. There's a scary amount of things to deal with on this head job as compared to earlier BMW models with which I'm familiar. Thanks for the detailed explanation. I've made a sequential list of each item to be removed along the way before starting on this job. Wish me luck.
Just got a lowish mileage 2007 Mini Cooper S (100k) that’s already had the timing chain and water pump done. When it comes time for more work, I know where I’ll come for reference. Great content and very well done videos. Thanks!
Diagnose and replace head gasket, timing chain and cylinder head on a 2010 MINI Cooper Clubman non-Turbo, N12/N16 engine.Resetting engine adaptations with diagnostic tool might be covered in a later Part 3 video.
Mod MINI's Tools: amzn.to/2QEMznK
Gen 2 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2A6rygv
If you still have codes, replace VANOS solenoid(s)? (2 for N12, N16, N18, 1 for N14). amzn.to/2S7Jrp7
This scanner is the cheapest that can reset adaptations on some/most MINIs. amzn.to/2FRsnOt This one will definitely work. amzn.to/2SdDjeX
Mod MINI Tip jar: www.fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar
See all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: ruclips.net/user/modmini #modmini #modminiRUclipsSee all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: ruclips.net/user/modmini
Nice follow up from part 1. Battery tools are the way forward. My air tools are gathering dust. 👍
Agreed... Air tool comes out for crank pulley bolt and axle to hub bolts, not much else anymore.
Wow such clear instruction and very informative on how not to break things on this process thank you Top Job 💯
I really like the silicone spray trick... I used to use silicone seal but only on the male parts.... made it much easier to install AND remove when the time came...although you would think the opposite... guess it never bonds that well to metals/plastics... going to use the spray from now on... lots cleaner.. !!! thanks
This is not an adhesive/RTV. It's a silicone based lubricant.
Hi,
Again you saved my life ! 👌Job done following your advices.
🤔Question : How to change the valves stem seals ? Especially the intake valves.
Removing the intake camshaft with the VANOS system is a bit hard to understand and there is a poor literature about on the net.
Great video man! What camera and mic are you using? very crisp footage and excellent audio
Gopro on head with a light
The audio is through your GoPro as well?
First of all; thanks for all your excellent videos. They are the best!
My question regarding this video: why are you nit using the timing chain pre-tensioner tool that comes with the alignment tool kit? Any particular reason for that?
Excellent video! Have you ever tackled the valve stem seals & guides on the N12? I'm planning to do the head gasket & figured I might as well knock those out since I'm in there. You're video is a big confidence booster! Thanks again.
Hi,
Following your advices save my life !
😃
Question: how to change the valve stem seals ?
Intake Valve stem seals are difficult to change due to the VANOS system.
🤔
Thanks for posting again. I always learn so much from your videos.
Great video, nice and detailed, I'll be coming back here if I need to change a head gasket on a mini.
its because of you that i love my mini more every day (have 1 question why the adaptation is not just a regular swap?)
I don't understand "Why the adaptation is not just a regular swap"
@@ModMINI so if you dont do the adaptation mean that will not work with out it?
@@juancarlosardon3738 If you touch the timing or valvetronic components and do not reset adaptations, you may have trouble starting the engine or engine running roughly, at least until it can adjust trim levels.
Hello, so for camshaft pulleys no particular markings? just reassemble the parts like your video? Nice work 🔥
I am hoping you do a video on how you clean the intake valves or keep them cleaned and what you have learned over the years
Doing a timing job on a r56 jcw thanks for he video tutorial helped a lot for the specs
did u have the head shaved
Nice Video! One question, when tightening the lower crankshaft screw do you just use the crankshaft pin to hold against it without any further locking? I'm a bit scared of shearing off the pin..
I think it’s the combined holding power of the timing chain/cam locks and the flywheel pin that holds everything secure.
Great video as always. I don't like these videos where they say they are going to remove something, remove it, but don't explain verbally how they did it. I am looking to purchase the Milwaukee M12, do you suggest 3/8" drive or 1/2"? And some are only 50 Lb torque and others are 200 Lb
I found your 2 videos great to follow when I did the head and chain on my daughters 1.4 N12 mini. Made the job nice and easy for a first play with this type of car. After getting it all back together though the car won't tick over at all but revs semi ok around 1500rpm. Once it gets hot though it won't restart. I followed the link you posted and got a scanner, I opted for the c501. The cods it is showing are 2ee5 dme: map thermostat activation and 2B15 dme: differential pressure intake manifold, plausibility. Is there anything I could have missed for it to be now showing up these codes? Thank you in advance for any comments!!
Make sure the timing is still correct after couple engine rotations and make sure intake and exhaust sprockets are on the correct cams. Make sure there are no disconnected wires or hoses and no air leaks. Make sure valvetronic self-test happens correctly when ignition turned on.
This and part 1 are perfect for my current project car (I'm in the processes of diagnosing an issue on my mini cooper 2011, non-turbo, and i need to see if the stat of the head since coolant is in the sump and engine oil is everywhere around the engine). I was wondering if you ended up replacing any of the bolts/screws when putting everything back together. I've seen recommendations suggesting that bolts/screws into the engine block should be replaced before putting everything back together.
Great videos. Thank you for taking the time to record these and to share your knowledge. I do have a question; when the exhaust cam shaft is aligned and ready to accept the timing alignment tool (part number facing up and middle flat facing up), are all of the exhaust valves fully closed? I am in a middle of the job (doing head gasket replacement on my son's 2011 mini base, N16) and noticed that in this position, the exhaust valves on cylinder 4 are slightly open. All others are closed. Also, when rotating the exhaust cam shaft, it does not stop in the timing alignment position, it has a tendency to move forward some 15-20 deg. I noticed that in your video, when you moved the exhaust cam shaft and before you installed the alignment tool, it stayed in the proper position without advancing. Thank you in advance.
Nice job any rtv on head gasket before you layed on ?
Absolutely not.
great videos, but really at the end of the head replacement you have the same problem as before, one cylinder misfires. you change spark plugs and the problem is solved. Question is, why not do a more thorough diagnostic on the misfire prior to doing all this work. I'm glad you did it for our benefit, but possibly could have been solved with a spark plug change.
excellent work. I saw your video and fix my r56
Dude you know ur stuff. Good vid!
Thanks!
thank you again ..boy your fast ....glad a can rewind ......again thank you
Sorry, I have to chop out the bits where there is no action or the videos would be so long that nobody would watch them. On a computer, just press the space key to pause and left/right arrow keys to go back/forward in 5 second jumps.
Now This is how to make a 10/10 video!
thanks for the best video ever smooth clear and friendly explanation especially nice to replied to peoples 2 thumbs up 🤟❤
great work sir. Just started the timing chain project myself. Just eliminating it as my issue. Multiple cylinder misfires. Thanks for the videos.
I too am experiencing multiple misfires and I'm hoping not to replace the head...
WooooooooooW super Job I guess you have Done this Before, very educational :-)
I wouldn't pretend to be an expert if I hadn't?
fantastic video thanks, I'd have been lost without you. I changed a couple of things that may or may not help. Instead of doing the front end maintenance steps, I removed the studs from the head which was very easy, that meant I could do a straight lift of the head without pulling the exhaust manifold back. Also, I held up the timing chain- hooked it onto a metal coat hanger attached to the hood (bonnet over here 🙂 ), so that I didn't have to remove the cassette. when I lifted the head, I got someone to hold the chain and feed it through, then hook it back up when I was clear.
Thanks for posting this I am always looking for a shortcut lol. You were able to get the heat shield out of the way without doing front service position? Id much rather remove exhaust studs than pull the front end out.
Yes, if I remember right, I had to take off the top part of the heat sheild. That’s obvious I guess, to get at the manifold bolts. Then the studs have a triangle end on them that a standard small long socket fits over. They come out quite easily. Then pull the inlet back as described in video and it’s a straight lift to get head off.
Just a heads up they sell little plastic inserts with magnets that you can put in all of your sockets . No more paper 🙂
I had a set of those but they didn't stand up to heavy use / interfered with full socket especially on nuts with the stud sticking through a little, which is most of them. The nuisance wasn't worth it for the few instances where they were helpful; I stopped using them and went back to the paper bits.
2:47 Why do you do an additional 90* while using the torque wrench. Wouldn’t the bolt strip? Snap?
Amazing videos, keep them coming 👍.
Hey fantastic video very knowledgeable information on the mini any chance you are near pa I could use some help I fixed the miss fire thanks to the information in your videos now my first drive 4 miles round trip to the gas station and home and I pulled into my drive way and saw steam coming out I popped the hood and water pump was leaking in the same spot as water pump video and the miss fire code came back idle was very weak stalling and a weird drawing sound coming from some were in the engine compartment I bought a water pump all new plugs and coils cylinder four plug very black compared to the other three if you read this I could use your trouble shooting professional input please
Seattle area.
Compression/leakdown test, fuel injector test perhaps
@@ModMINI well got it back together last night got home after work put it all together and leaks I’m going to make a video this time cuz I am new to mini I’m not giving up did it have to do with air or something not sure but I’ll let you know after I make the video this weekend or so I hope
Great video. you are the best at explaining the process. Quick question on the base model both cam sprockets are torqued to 15 ft lbs plus 180?
torque is same if the sprocket looks the same
@@ModMINI but you did 90 degrees only for both instead of 180, can you explain why?
@@samtohidi1631 VANOS sprocket is one, regular non-VANOS sprocket is the other.
Nice video. If and when I find a mechanic that can do this for my car. What is the price range in looking at ?
Great video! Did you replace the gaskets when you re-installed the intake and exhaust manifolds? When should they be replaced?
they can generally be reused unless bent up or most of the black coating missing
Hello sir i enjoy watching this video. Do you have made any video on valve stemp seal replacment ?
Check the blown engine video series. I think I install valve stem seals in that video series.
Did you use new crank/cam sprocket.bolts or reuse the old ones?
That was an excellent job brother appreciate it and enjoy watching the video God bless
Great videos, thanks for sharing them. Is it recommended that the head bolts get lubricated before installation? I'm getting mixed messages on that and your camera didn't record that part of installation.
They typically come pre-lubricated. If not, a quick shot of the threads with a thin oil can't hurt.
That’s some professional work done!
he never said he had the headshaved
u have to shave a head after 4000 miles
@@MrDonnieboy69 I don’t know what your talking about! 🤷🏻♂️
Hi,
Thank you for the detailed video.
I followed your instructions and replaced head gasket and time chain. I also ground the valve seats. After installing everything back the car starts and sounds good. The problem is that now we have check engine sign. Also, as soon as I put the key in, the windshield wipers work. When scanning with Creator C310+, I get the following errors:
SGM-ZGM
EPS
ABS
SRS
TCM
CAS
SHD
IC
FRM
AC
CD
CD-GW
ECM
I drove the car 200 meters with no problem (other than the windshield wipers). I erased the codes but they keep coming back.
What should I do to get red of these codes.
Thanks
you degree bolts by hand ? and use old thermostat seal ?
Great video
Do adaptations have to be reset if your just changing the head gasket and not the head?
Hi, great video! Is there is any way that I can do a chat or phone consutltation with you about an issue with a mini cooper engine?
What was the torque for the new head bolts?
Hey there, quick timing question...I noticed you said in the video that the exhaust looked slightly rotated...are the flats supposed to be level with each other across the top? Have you found a better lock set for the N14? if so what brand as the ones I have are horrible.. Thanks for making your video's! huge help for me and i'm sure everyone who watches.
Level across top. Regardless of lock tool quality, you can get it aligned with a bit of trial and error.
Thanks a lot for your awsome videos. You saved me a lot of time!! I'm doing this same job right now and I'm having an issue. I rotated the pistons while the cylinder head was removed !! Don't ask me why... Is there a way to find the good position for the pistons (TDC) (I do have the locking tool)? Please help me!
Ok, I think I figure it out. Since the exauhst valves of cylinder 4 are open when the camshaft are aligned, then the 1&4 pistons should be on their way up. So the good place to lock the crankshaft is when cylinder 1 and 4 are on the middle of their way up. Someone can confirm this?
Pistons should be at middle dead center. I go over bottom end and cam alignment in the video. You have to lock the flywheel with the pin and lock camshafts with the cam locking tool with the square surfaces on cam facing up, front and back, and the rounded surface facing down.
Well, the engine won't start. I see gas in the injectors's line, I'll check for fire at spark plugs. If there is fire, it's probably a bad timing issue... even if I can't understand why. I used the camshafts lock tool and the flywheel locking tool. Is there something I have to reset if I kept the same cylinder head? The engine cranks just fine but nothing is happening... like an engine with no fire or no gas.
Is it possible that I'm 360 degree off? Since the crankshaft does 2 complete turns while the camshafts do 1 complete turn, maybe I have to turn the crankshaft another 360 degree (to the next time that cylinder 1 and 4 are on their way up)? That would explain why I ear no valve interference while cranking the engine and why it don't start... like the spark plug is trying to fire an exauhst mix?
@@ModMINI I notice in your video you have the locking tool in the flywheel. when you remove the head and put the new head back on 2 middle cylinders are up and 2 outside ones are down. is this the correct way to lock it I dont want to tear up my motor.
That’s aloooooooot of work and without having the software basically impossible yeah I think I’ll pass on a good priced mini with a blown head gasket!!!
I have 08 base clubman as well with misfire and very low compression on 1 cyl. I noticed u just placed head and gasket. In your video u didn’t confirm which was the problem. I dont have a new replacement head so wondering if head gasket the more likely problem. Did u ever take i second look at head to see if it was cracked? Thanks.. btw great video
The head did not appear warped on measurement. It might have been still good. It was probably just a failed head gasket but I know the car overheated and I had a spare head anyway, so I went ahead with replacing it.
Hi I noticed that your two center pistons are all the way up when removed my head all the cylinders wear at the same hight should I be concerned about that
Good job!!! few questions... 1. Do I need disassembly all equipment for time belt change only (N16)? 2. How I can check time belt and tensioner condition after valve cover is off? (I already have problem with misfire on cyl4 so maybe I must change time belt)
N16 does not have a belt. It has a chain. I can't step you through what is different for just timing chain without spending a half hour to answer this. Check some other guides or watch the video until you understand what is going on. To check chain stretch, you need the locking tool. Tensioner should be replaced as a set.
Excellent video. Keep it up!
If you don't reset the adaptations, will the car not start?
Probably will start but may run rough if there was chain stretch and ECU adapted around the wrong timing.
Hello I followed your instructions and did the timing with the special tool, put back everything the way it was before . My engine cranks , but it doesn’t run .
Double check all work and strong battery state of charge. Double check electrical, fuel, spark, chain timing, all sensors and solenoids correctly connected, no air leaks.
Great vid
Great video! I am working on the same engine (2007 R56 non-s). Your camera blanked out on the part that I really needed to see. When using the locking tool in the flywheel the pistons are not all even, about 1/2" difference between cylinders 1 and 2. Is the hole in my flywheel in the wrong position, or is the locked position not supposed to be dead even between all the cylinders?
That should not be possible. Make sure tool is correctly centered.
Well done laddie
Very very professional
The vanos gears have a little dot on them that must meet each other in the middle when put on
Your REC on the tool for purging the cooling system?? Great video........
www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5NRJN7/?tag=mimlif-20
How do I correct the engine timing since my chain skipped? I've seen others align the pistons halfway up with the camshafts locked into place. Those were n14 engines. So do all pistons have to be at an even height? Thanks
Same as N14 - the engine is in time if all of the alignment blocks are correctly in place and there is no chain slack on top or front portions of chain.
You don’t have to find TDC? Or cam in your sprockets and such???? I’m about to replace the chain on my R53 naturally aspirated base 04 Mini. You make it seem easy.
Not TDC. The alignment tool aligns engine at middle dead center. R53 also aligns at middle dead center.
The crank bolt torque should be 38 ft-lb then 180 degree. I also use the tool instead of the tensioner to take the slack of the chain. The front main seal has a nice tool to install and should not be flush.
Those milwakee tools are a life/time saver! Also while watching I was able to see that gear the is driven by the variable timing motor on the back on the head. I thought that gear was on the intake cam. When I pull the cam off to do valve seals would I also have to remove that bar the is behind the cam that is for the variable valve timing or does it look like it would be able to access the valves seals without removing it?
You have to remove the valvetronic motor and the eccentric shaft.
@@ModMINI sounds good. It was just hard to tell by pics and your vids if I could work around it or not.
The part that’s left in the car. I don’t know if you call it the bottom head those pistons to call off the flooring at home is that the weather
I don’t understand why correct or does that I mean the two pistons in the middle are up and the two from the far end are down is that the way they’re supposed to be when you install the head
What direction does the first piston moves after alignment?
Could you make a video on how to reassemble an R56 base model cylinder head?
Hi, great vid, I am curious about one thing. When the timing tools are locked in place in this engine, should not all 4 cylinders be at the same level in mid position? but when you put the new head gasket on they aren't? hope you can answer, many thanks.
I don't remember anything about this job but I think they are supposed to line up in middle. When the pin is installed in flywheel it is the correct position.
Have you ever rebuilt supercharger on 2005 R53?
Greetings, mate. I have a 2008 Mini Cooper Clubman R55 with 150K miles that is experiencing misfires at idle and low pressure warning when car is warm. Upon inspection, there is excessive wear in the cylinder head cam seats. Do you have any recommendations for a reliable, relatively low mileage replacement head as you used in this video? Dealer quoted $4362 for an OEM replacement.
isnt this N12 engine? how come you did additional 90 for sprockets instead of 180?
great channel. cant stop watching your videos,
i have a mini one 2004. how easy/hard would it be to install air con ? my mini does not have it, thank you.
Probably a big job unless it was deinstalled at some point. Car won't have the wiring and electronics for it. Trading the MINI might be cheaper in the long run unless you can get a nonworking donor MINI for almost nothing.
I have 2011 clubman 3door turbo 1600 I bought a timing chain kit. The top guard in the head that comes with it rubs agains the top of the chain between the 2 sprockets ex and intake. I put washers under feet of bracket. it clears now.. That says the chain is too thick or guard too low? . next issue is the dip stick is hitting something on the way in about 1/2 way.. Next to the timing chain. ??
Are the base model engines like this interference or non?
Great job!!!
Other than the head bolts.... I was Just curious if you reuse any of the Torque to yield hardware bolts (crank bolt, cams, etc).
Also... what are your feelings about using ARP head bolts? Thank you in advance for your input!!!
I honestly think those are less necessary to replace as the bolt itself is not really getting torqued to yield. All they are doing is preventing a part from walking off. ARP head bolts - sure, if you may be disassembling the engine multiple times or building a high compression engine. Otherwise, probably not necessary.
Mod mini, i have an r53 and thinking to track it about 6 times a year. I already have a 15 reduction pulley. What else can i upgrade hp wise, but while keeping stock internals with no risk ????
Or what can you say its the limit for stock internals in track conditions
Stock internals can take the punishment. Upgrade exhaust manifold, intercooler and cold air intake for more power. And get a tune. Upgrade fuel injectors and cylinder head to big valve head for most power. And then get a tune again because car won't know what to do with all that extra air.
this is art
How much would a job like this cost?
hi bud great videos just about to tackle a blown headgasket on my partners r56 what adaptations do you need to reset once you get it all back together cheers
I would reset all engine adaptations but car will probably run fine and eventually adapt even if you don't.
Thanks for the awesome videos about Mini Cooper. I recently replaced the engine for my 2011 Mini R55. I refer a lot from your posts. I have a quick question hopefully you’ll be able to help me. After the used engine install with only 46K miles, engine starts and runs great until it reaches normal operating temp around 190 on obd reader. Engine been stalling only when it reached the normal temp. Let it cool down and fires up and runs without any hesitation or rough idling. New water pump, thermostat housing, new coolant fluid, bled and temp sensor installed during the swap. Could it be the ECU getting wrong readings from the Temp sensor? I read in the forum I may have to get the ECU reset/reprogram. Thanks.
I'd have to see the car. Measure coolant temperature and feel radiator, etc. Could be a lot of things.
i don't know if anyone ask you about this, but how much will this fix cost ? ...nice repair by the way
That's an impossible question to answer. Labor hours vary and service levels vary. This was a repair for my kid's car I think. So it was just the cost of parts.
Is the timing chair cover (bolted in with 2 bolts) supposed to be in contact with the timing chain when bolted down?
The top chain guide should be touching the chain.
@@ModMINI thanks so much for your videos! I got the new head installed with timing chain and a bunch of other parts. Did the initial startup and it started up great. Now working through the codes. First timer and you’ve given me the confidence to make this happen.