Torque specs have been Revised! The top guide rail needs to be fitted before the pre-tension is set, and if you're looking through comments for torque the cams on N14 20nm + 180° for inlet 20nm + 90° exhaust 25nm chain guide bolts, Wouldn't use new ones i never have and I've done literally hundreds. Bit of silicone grease on the O-rings, Crank is 50nm + 180° Tensioner 65nm Make sure you fit the guide rail before you pre tension or tighten anything, it will be wrong if you fit it after timing is set.
I want to thank you for this video. It's videos like this that gave me the courage to tackle my own timing chain repair. I have a few suggestions for those out there that want to tackle this job: 1) Always replace the front crank seal. It's cheap insurance against an oil leak - and lubricate the inside of the seal to prevent it from getting damaged up on start up. 2) Soak the chain in oil before assembly. Why start it up dry? 3) Dropping the oil pan is a must, especially if your old chain kit had any kind of problems. Make sure your oil pump screen is clear 4) If you buy a gen 2 Mini, count on needing a new chain kit with tensioner. You may as well figure that into the price of the car.
I had bugs in my STOMACH the whole time , great video i must say for a DIY guy . My sons mini is going to need timing chain soon he's getting to that 100 thousand mile mark . So I'm putting on my I know everything face and diving right in . Thanks for your knowledge .
34:05 Same problem here! Had no idea the flywheel could even be installed wrong, but apparently the previous owner replaced the clutch, so the kabob sticks looks like the only solution here. Thanks a million for the solution, I thought I was SOL and was looking at a dropped transmission.
Thank you and MINI Adventurer (?) for the kabob stick idea...I love the simple visual. For the crank lock, sorry you had to sand it. I would have stuck it in my dril chuck l and ran it on low RPM. A measure of yours with a pair of calipers would be nice info to add as a popup text so others can see if theirs is likely oversized. Just an idea. I know this video was from a while ago. Edit: while you're at it buy some good quality step drill bits. Wish I had bought some 20 years ago. They are awesome for quick fab work.
One of the best timing chain replacement videos on a mini. Great resource to help me with my own mini. Great debriefing at the end. Convinced me to purchase crank holding tool. Thanks for your work.
@38:40 you don't need the makeshift tool to hold the crank hub if you have the locking tool in the flywheel. The crankshaft won't spin - the tool and flywheel+housing can counter the torque. "bmwrepairguide mini-r56-timing-chain-replacement-2006-2013-cooper-n12-engine"
Thank you so much for your video, it encouraged me to do the work. I had few problems cause I used carburetor cleaner on the turbo lines and it ate the seals. I had to take the turbo out again and replaced the lines. Don’t put original parts in does lines, they make better ones. God bless you young man for sharing your experience, it help me and save me a lot of money.
Thanks for the vid. I am in the process of replacing the set up myself. I found a trick to putting in the crank pin. It actually goes in all the way! I used a mirror to look at the hole. The hole in the crank has to match the flywheel hole exactly. With the mirror I was able to see it. I had to use a screw driver on the gear where you can see it through the bottom to make very tiny adjustments and wellah the pin slid all the way in very smoothly. I even had the cheap kit. I can post pics but not sure if comments allow.
Hey man, I havent finished the video yet but I will be doing this project on my son's 2009 mini s today. This still looks easier than when I replaced the supply and return oil on the turbo. That was a tough 8hr job! I replaced with flex lines. I noticed yours is still stock. Beware! When you start seeing oil around the supply fitting on top of the turbo; then see if you can push and pull the line to and fro. If so then that seal in the fitting has chrystallized and is no longer sealing. Flex lines are easier to install but job is a challenge primarily due to heat shield removal and replacement! Ok I'm headed out to get this task done. We noticed a rattle/chatter coming from under the cover. Took the valve cover off and found plastic pieces missing from the rub rails, fished them out replaced the cover started but still had same noise. So off we go!
Thanks for the vid! I am doing a head gasket, ARP racing studs and the timing chain this weekend. Some steps are much easier with a 700 ft/lb air hammer. I have never tried to take a crank shaft bolt off without one.
Great Video! loved the part descriptions and tips throughout as well as learning curve tips after the fact. Excellent for research. I will be attempting this repair myself here in the next few weeks.
46:02 after lossen up the bolts tor, you must hit two bolt with a hammer and the same extension bar.. so you can lossen up easy. how much money cost that good job?
Great video but I did notice a minor inconsistency. At 35:19 your statement contradicts with itself: "The cam rotates once for every two of the crank. So the cam goes twice as fast as the crank". The first statement is true but not the second - if the cam rotates once for every two of the crank how can it spin faster then the crank? I think it might be useful to point out that since the camshaft rotates once for every two rotations of the crank then it is not possible to be in a situation where cam is lined up but the crank is not. It would however be possible to be for the crank to be lined up but the camshaft be 180 degrees off. As long as you see the letters on the camshaft facing up then the crank is also nearing its mark.
For the past five or so years, I've bypassed all this frustration and anguish trying to bend my arms in ten places, and just lowered the subframe, onto a trolley,lifted the car off it and then wheeled the whole frame, engine and gearbox out. It takes a fraction of the time, and you can service EVERYTHING without having octopus arms. I had to disconnect the exhaust, steering column etc. but screw doing it this way ever again.
Great video. I didn't have a means of making a crank holder tool so went with the Haynes manual suggestion of having an assistant keep the car in 5th gear while applying the brakes firmly. I couldn't get the bolt undone using an air impact gun even after a liberal spraying of WD40. I finally got it off using a long breaker bar but then once I got it undone I noticed the flywheel has moved and now the crank locking pin won't go into place. I don't understand how this happened as I have the cam locking tools firmly in place so they can't have rotated surely? I now have the VANOS and tensioner etc removed but unsure how much further to proceed if the timing isn't right? Will the crank/flywheel go back into time once I have rotated the engine manually a few times?
Great video ... If an r56 throws off a 287D vanos inlet actuators movement and suddenly wont start without issue the day before. What is the fix? Replace vanos?
It's a spring more or less. I have a 2013 JCW and mine is the same as yours. The level should be around the middle at the end where indications are. I always fill mine up about 5/8 because turbos cars do use a good bit of oil to keep the turbo lubricated. I suggest checking your levels about every few weeks before you start it. Should help keep down on the timing chain failures.
80k miles on plugs with a turbo? My other car, I change them every 15k. They look pretty good at 15k, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't go 30k on them. 20 would be about all I would do on a 4 cylinder turbo generally speaking. My naturally aspirated v8s each take 16 plugs, so I go with Iridium and do those at 100k miles. So far so good. Would be interested to learn what you find works for the Miini S.
i want to ask if this timing chain issues effect all years or just limited some early years?? mine is 2012 model with manufacture year August 2011 im not sure if i have revised edition or same faulty timing chain engine. To be on safer side can i just replace tensioner ?? As what i can understand tensioner is the main culprit of this issue.
Hi can you answer this: Is it a must to do the vanos adaptation reset straight after doing the chain replace? Or will the car work poorly if not done immediately after the job?
my 2010 Mini Cooper s had complete engine destruction a couple months ago after getting the engine replaced just months earlier. clearly theres an issue with the engines is there anything I could do to hold mini accountable for it?
Nice video 👍. I have a question. I own a first get R50 Non S mini Cooper with 168000 miles. I bought the car with 157000 miles 7-8 years ago. I don't drive the car much. By the way I do Not know if the timing chain has ever been changed in the car? Do u or anyone in the comments know if the car needs a timing chain change? Thank you. By the way my mini has been converted to a newer 6 speed from the original unreliable 5 speed which decided to explode and grenade by itself while I was doing 25 mph so I found a cool mechanic in Sunland,CA and he swapped it for a 6 speed👍👍
Did you ever drop the oil pan? If not, have you experienced any issues? Oh and great video. I especially loved the part when your homie stops through to help... for 15 minutes.
Thanks, the vid' is going to be a great help. Did you ever measure the homemade crankshaft pulley tool. Would like to make one before I start my timing chain change. Thanks Simon
Hi, You are so brave to do this timing chain job . Your video gives many mini owners to get into that issues. Thanks a lot. I have two questions 1 You still have the old timing chain I want to buy 2 Do you lend the timing tool kit . Pls reply
Hi, I just completed the installation of my timing chain. R55 Clubman just like yours. It won't start. Cranks and seem like it wants to start but just doesn't. Mine works fine before I replaced the chain. I check the timing and is correct, locking tool in place and both camp have stamping facing up. Do you have any suggestions why that is and did you have to position the VANOS in certain way when you installed back in? thx in advance.
Hey Eric, did you rotate the engine manually after completion to verify the timing was good? If so, when you did this, did you notice any audible noises that were odd? I am in the middle of this and I have everything assembled but I have a weird clicking noise coming from the intake cam and I am suspecting the VANOS unit is the cause due to no oil pressure (while engine is off) I think it's going to be fine but just wanted to see if you had any experience with this.
do you stll have the link by the chance where u got the timing chain set. great vid tho, i have a mini cooper s r56 2009 and i need to replace the timing soon,
Very good video. Thanks for sharing. What size is your torque wrench? I'm trying to decide if I should buy a 3/8 or 1/2 digital torque wrench. Thanks again, Lou
No, I don't think so. These are kind of noisy engines under normal conditions. I've put several thousand miles on the car since making this, and beaten on it at autocross. It's solid.
The manual came from Auto Zone, Haynes brand. The Cooper and the Countryman do share engines, but I don't know if you'll have the N14 featured here, or the later N18. Both 1.6L turbo.
Thanks for the great video, there just one little thing about crankshaft bolt torque, once you mentioned 45/47 ft lbs + 100 degree but in next scene mentioned 37 ft lbs, so which one is actually correct? 47 or 37?
I have seen maybe 10 utube clips and 2 say 100degrees and 8 say 180 degrees. One shows the manual clearly showing 180 degrees. Great video but are you comfortable with crank bolt only at 100 degrees?
Great video - watching it on repeat before doing the same on my 2007 r56. Firstly.. very clean engine bay you had there considering the age! Secondly, how did it go putting in the new crank seal in? Not sure if I missed it but did you need any special tools or was it easy enough to put in without? Thanks
Great video - very helpful. Quick question - did you use the special "pre tensioner" tool when you torqued down the cam sprockets - or did you just install the new tensioner prior to setting the final torque on those sprockets ?
BTW, I took mine in to claim the 100K warranty on the timing chain, the stealer wants more of my hard earned money before they would let me claim the warranty repair. He did admin that there is an extended warranty for this issue on MINIs up to 100k
hey i have a 08 mini s started to hear the rattle at 84k miles i was wondering if u knew if mini did any recalls on this issue? if not im probly going to have to do it myself because broke college students cant afford a 1500$+ repair on a mini thats only worth 6k.
Great video (and, as you mentioned the one by Mini Adventure). On the crank holding tool @ 42:10 do you have the dimensions of the 4 drilled holes so I can fabricate my own, too?
What is the distance between the centre of the 3 holes (or just 2 of them actually and the third creates the triangle)?. Rather than make one on the fly, I want to try and make one before I attempt the job. Thanks
Did this last weekend plus valve seals with the head on my r56 jcw n14 Oil comsupsion drop very much Took the all weekend You didn t use the locking pin properly and several steps were wrong that holding tool is uselless in this engine
They are one time use bolts. Re-use could lead to failure because of the way the bolt is made, they get weak after one torque sequence. Hope this helps!
Ok, I don't think I can do that. My heart sank when the motor almost hit the floor hanging on to just one motor mount. Great video though! I don't think I could handle getting the motor lined back up to put the mount back on by myself. Did you do that without help?
Torque specs have been Revised! The top guide rail needs to be fitted before the pre-tension is set, and if you're looking through comments for torque the cams on N14 20nm + 180° for inlet
20nm + 90° exhaust
25nm chain guide bolts, Wouldn't use new ones i never have and I've done literally hundreds. Bit of silicone grease on the O-rings,
Crank is 50nm + 180°
Tensioner 65nm
Make sure you fit the guide rail before you pre tension or tighten anything, it will be wrong if you fit it after timing is set.
If an r56 throws off a 287D vanos inlet actuators movement and suddenly wont start without issue the day before. What is the fix? Replace vanos?
I want to thank you for this video. It's videos like this that gave me the courage to tackle my own timing chain repair. I have a few suggestions for those out there that want to tackle this job: 1) Always replace the front crank seal. It's cheap insurance against an oil leak - and lubricate the inside of the seal to prevent it from getting damaged up on start up. 2) Soak the chain in oil before assembly. Why start it up dry? 3) Dropping the oil pan is a must, especially if your old chain kit had any kind of problems. Make sure your oil pump screen is clear 4) If you buy a gen 2 Mini, count on needing a new chain kit with tensioner. You may as well figure that into the price of the car.
I had bugs in my STOMACH the whole time , great video i must say for a DIY guy . My sons mini is going to need timing chain soon he's getting to that 100 thousand mile mark . So I'm putting on my I know everything face and diving right in . Thanks for your knowledge .
If the crankcase pin doesn't want to go in. turn the engine over once more. (Markings on cams will be back into the correct position.)
34:05
Same problem here!
Had no idea the flywheel could even be installed wrong, but apparently the previous owner replaced the clutch, so the kabob sticks looks like the only solution here. Thanks a million for the solution, I thought I was SOL and was looking at a dropped transmission.
Flywheel only goes on oneway. Has a pin on crank that fits into flywheel.
Thank you and MINI Adventurer (?) for the kabob stick idea...I love the simple visual.
For the crank lock, sorry you had to sand it. I would have stuck it in my dril chuck l and ran it on low RPM. A measure of yours with a pair of calipers would be nice info to add as a popup text so others can see if theirs is likely oversized. Just an idea. I know this video was from a while ago.
Edit: while you're at it buy some good quality step drill bits. Wish I had bought some 20 years ago. They are awesome for quick fab work.
Man thank you so much for making this video .It was so useful .Just replaced my timing chain on my 2009 Mini Cooper S .
Did timing on 2007 mini c s but it wont start. It says transmission faulty
You’ll been a Mini Cooper deep scanner to reset any fault codes . Timing chain is separate from the transmission.
One of the best timing chain replacement videos on a mini. Great resource to help me with my own mini. Great debriefing at the end. Convinced me to purchase crank holding tool. Thanks for your work.
@38:40 you don't need the makeshift tool to hold the crank hub if you have the locking tool in the flywheel. The crankshaft won't spin - the tool and flywheel+housing can counter the torque. "bmwrepairguide mini-r56-timing-chain-replacement-2006-2013-cooper-n12-engine"
Thank you so much for your video, it encouraged me to do the work. I had few problems cause I used carburetor cleaner on the turbo lines and it ate the seals. I had to take the turbo out again and replaced the lines. Don’t put original parts in does lines, they make better ones. God bless you young man for sharing your experience, it help me and save me a lot of money.
Thanks for the vid. I am in the process of replacing the set up myself. I found a trick to putting in the crank pin. It actually goes in all the way! I used a mirror to look at the hole. The hole in the crank has to match the flywheel hole exactly. With the mirror I was able to see it. I had to use a screw driver on the gear where you can see it through the bottom to make very tiny adjustments and wellah the pin slid all the way in very smoothly. I even had the cheap kit. I can post pics but not sure if comments allow.
Hey man, I havent finished the video yet but I will be doing this project on my son's 2009 mini s today. This still looks easier than when I replaced the supply and return oil on the turbo. That was a tough 8hr job! I replaced with flex lines. I noticed yours is still stock. Beware! When you start seeing oil around the supply fitting on top of the turbo; then see if you can push and pull the line to and fro. If so then that seal in the fitting has chrystallized and is no longer sealing. Flex lines are easier to install but job is a challenge primarily due to heat shield removal and replacement! Ok I'm headed out to get this task done. We noticed a rattle/chatter coming from under the cover. Took the valve cover off and found plastic pieces missing from the rub rails, fished them out replaced the cover started but still had same noise. So off we go!
Good man the step by step tutorial is real nice man and enlightening
You did really good on documenting this job! Great for everyone who wants to prepare for it.
Minis are a pain to work on
Good video, I especially liked the end when you started the engine and I could hear what it should sound like to compare it to my own.
Thanks for this awesome step by step video.. after watching I feel more comfortable to work on my Mini by myself.
Thanks for the vid! I am doing a head gasket, ARP racing studs and the timing chain this weekend. Some steps are much easier with a 700 ft/lb air hammer. I have never tried to take a crank shaft bolt off without one.
I've got a compressor now so a good impact gun is next on the list!!
a 1400 ft/lb electric is better
Great Video! loved the part descriptions and tips throughout as well as learning curve tips after the fact. Excellent for research. I will be attempting this repair myself here in the next few weeks.
Glad you liked it!
46:02 after lossen up the bolts tor, you must hit two bolt with a hammer and the same extension bar.. so you can lossen up easy. how much money cost that good job?
Great video but I did notice a minor inconsistency. At 35:19 your statement contradicts with itself: "The cam rotates once for every two of the crank. So the cam goes twice as fast as the crank". The first statement is true but not the second - if the cam rotates once for every two of the crank how can it spin faster then the crank? I think it might be useful to point out that since the camshaft rotates once for every two rotations of the crank then it is not possible to be in a situation where cam is lined up but the crank is not. It would however be possible to be for the crank to be lined up but the camshaft be 180 degrees off. As long as you see the letters on the camshaft facing up then the crank is also nearing its mark.
For the past five or so years, I've bypassed all this frustration and anguish trying to bend my arms in ten places, and just lowered the subframe, onto a trolley,lifted the car off it and then wheeled the whole frame, engine and gearbox out. It takes a fraction of the time, and you can service EVERYTHING without having octopus arms. I had to disconnect the exhaust, steering column etc. but screw doing it this way ever again.
What was that rattling at the end there? I have that exact same rattle noise at 1:03:03. What's the difference between that and the death rattle?
All I can say is thank you ! I had the same problem with my cooper . Took notes and I’m ready to attack !
Great video. I didn't have a means of making a crank holder tool so went with the Haynes manual suggestion of having an assistant keep the car in 5th gear while applying the brakes firmly. I couldn't get the bolt undone using an air impact gun even after a liberal spraying of WD40. I finally got it off using a long breaker bar but then once I got it undone I noticed the flywheel has moved and now the crank locking pin won't go into place. I don't understand how this happened as I have the cam locking tools firmly in place so they can't have rotated surely? I now have the VANOS and tensioner etc removed but unsure how much further to proceed if the timing isn't right? Will the crank/flywheel go back into time once I have rotated the engine manually a few times?
Great video ...
If an r56 throws off a 287D vanos inlet actuators movement and suddenly wont start without issue the day before. What is the fix? Replace vanos?
hey bro I was watching your video I have the same problem with the pin of the clan I have a mini and how could you put the ckam on time
Hi, what is the torque setting used on the chain tensioner? Thanks
Hi, how much NM torque becomes the bolts from vanos unit?
I just replaced the tensioner with the updated one and it corrected the situation. I know I'll have to replace it eventually but its okay for now..
thanks for the information and common sense approach
20:04, Why is my dipstick nothing like this? Mine looks like one long threaded bolt and is impossible to get a reading off
It's a spring more or less. I have a 2013 JCW and mine is the same as yours. The level should be around the middle at the end where indications are. I always fill mine up about 5/8 because turbos cars do use a good bit of oil to keep the turbo lubricated. I suggest checking your levels about every few weeks before you start it. Should help keep down on the timing chain failures.
Thanks for the video. Question though. If you have the crank locking pin place why would you need the tool you made?
It was good thanks for your time. Keep it going.
80k miles on plugs with a turbo? My other car, I change them every 15k. They look pretty good at 15k, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't go 30k on them. 20 would be about all I would do on a 4 cylinder turbo generally speaking. My naturally aspirated v8s each take 16 plugs, so I go with Iridium and do those at 100k miles. So far so good.
Would be interested to learn what you find works for the Miini S.
Great job guy vary informative. Headed to tear mine down now .
Exactly what I need. Thanks for this post!
thanks for this video i will follow you now
but i have a question how many you put torque on the tensionner ?
ps: sorry for my english
Great job , how about the broken pieces ?did you remove it?
i want to ask if this timing chain issues effect all years or just limited some early years?? mine is 2012 model with manufacture year August 2011 im not sure if i have revised edition or same faulty timing chain engine. To be on safer side can i just replace tensioner ?? As what i can understand tensioner is the main culprit of this issue.
Hi can you answer this: Is it a must to do the vanos adaptation reset straight after doing the chain replace? Or will the car work poorly if not done immediately after the job?
would keeping the fly wheel guide pin in keep the crank from moving? that way you don't need to fab a crank tool.
Probably fine if your using a impact gun to break it loose
my 2010 Mini Cooper s had complete engine destruction a couple months ago after getting the engine replaced just months earlier. clearly theres an issue with the engines is there anything I could do to hold mini accountable for it?
haha nice, i used some carbon fiber sheet scraps to make a crank holding wrench. love being resourceful when it makes sense
LEGEND...F.Y.I the death rattle is now covered by 10 years and 100,000 miles in the U.S. Parts and labour. Lucky. Im in the U.K :(
MrAssassinash Good info, thanks!
MrAssassinash, where did you find that information on the warrant in US?
What brand is the torque wrench?
Nice video 👍. I have a question. I own a first get R50 Non S mini Cooper with 168000 miles. I bought the car with 157000 miles 7-8 years ago. I don't drive the car much. By the way I do Not know if the timing chain has ever been changed in the car? Do u or anyone in the comments know if the car needs a timing chain change? Thank you. By the way my mini has been converted to a newer 6 speed from the original unreliable 5 speed which decided to explode and grenade by itself while I was doing 25 mph so I found a cool mechanic in Sunland,CA and he swapped it for a 6 speed👍👍
Did you ever drop the oil pan? If not, have you experienced any issues? Oh and great video. I especially loved the part when your homie stops through to help... for 15 minutes.
Thanks man, glad you liked it. I didn't end up pulling the oil pan and have not had any issues.
Thanks, the vid' is going to be a great help. Did you ever measure the homemade crankshaft pulley tool. Would like to make one before I start my timing chain change. Thanks Simon
Hi, You are so brave to do this timing chain job . Your video gives many mini owners to get into that issues. Thanks a lot. I have two questions
1 You still have the old timing chain I want to buy 2 Do you lend the timing tool kit . Pls reply
Hi, I just completed the installation of my timing chain. R55 Clubman just like yours. It won't start. Cranks and seem like it wants to start but just doesn't. Mine works fine before I replaced the chain. I check the timing and is correct, locking tool in place and both camp have stamping facing up. Do you have any suggestions why that is and did you have to position the VANOS in certain way when you installed back in? thx in advance.
Mine was hard to start also, I had to push the start button a few times.
Hey Eric, did you rotate the engine manually after completion to verify the timing was good? If so, when you did this, did you notice any audible noises that were odd? I am in the middle of this and I have everything assembled but I have a weird clicking noise coming from the intake cam and I am suspecting the VANOS unit is the cause due to no oil pressure (while engine is off) I think it's going to be fine but just wanted to see if you had any experience with this.
do you stll have the link by the chance where u got the timing chain set. great vid tho, i have a mini cooper s r56 2009 and i need to replace the timing soon,
Gilbert Rausa parts geek
Is it mandatory to replace the camshaft sprocket bolts??? Could i re use the old ones???
Btw excellent vid
Yes, it is mandatory to replace both cam gear bolts. If you reuse them, failure is likely to happen as the bolt's structural integrity is compromised.
Im confused. Ive seen other vids on this job and nobody else has dismantled the left hand side of the car to do it.
What repair manual did you follow to do this job?
47:10 The very moment you guys are looking for.
Thank you for making this video. Would you mind posting links to the Amazon tool set you used?
You're welcome, I'm glad you liked it! I just updated the description with some tools for you.
in your great video you mentioned a manual, where can i find this? or are you able of sending a copy? thx great video top detail in it
I used a Haynes manual I bought at AutoZone. Thank you!
Very good video. Thanks for sharing. What size is your torque wrench? I'm trying to decide if I should buy a 3/8 or 1/2 digital torque wrench.
Thanks again,
Lou
What would this job run me if I take it to a mechanic non mini dealership ? Asking for a friend
My brother can i talk to you about mini cooper
it didnt sound smooth was it the plastic that broke off from the old timing chain guides that make the sound or what ?
No, I don't think so. These are kind of noisy engines under normal conditions. I've put several thousand miles on the car since making this, and beaten on it at autocross. It's solid.
Is the 2012 mini Cooper countryman all 4s the Same engine were did you get your part service manual
The manual came from Auto Zone, Haynes brand. The Cooper and the Countryman do share engines, but I don't know if you'll have the N14 featured here, or the later N18. Both 1.6L turbo.
Thanks for the great video, there just one little thing about crankshaft bolt torque, once you mentioned 45/47 ft lbs + 100 degree but in next scene mentioned 37 ft lbs, so which one is actually correct? 47 or 37?
37 Ft-Lbs or 50 Nm then tighten an additional 100 degrees. I would recommend purchasing a Haynes repair manual. You'll find all the torque specs .
@@garza7676 Sorry its wrong its 50Nm and 180° by original BMW TIS
I have seen maybe 10 utube clips and 2 say 100degrees and 8 say 180 degrees. One shows the manual clearly showing 180 degrees. Great video but are you comfortable with crank bolt only at 100 degrees?
Did you add a Mini Cooper Emblem to the engine cover? How'd you get it to stay on in the heat?
Great video - watching it on repeat before doing the same on my 2007 r56. Firstly.. very clean engine bay you had there considering the age! Secondly, how did it go putting in the new crank seal in? Not sure if I missed it but did you need any special tools or was it easy enough to put in without? Thanks
It actually went in very smoothly. I just used my fingers and made sure it was in equally on all sides.
Great video - very helpful. Quick question - did you use the special "pre tensioner" tool when you torqued down the cam sprockets - or did you just install the new tensioner prior to setting the final torque on those sprockets ?
The tool kit I got didn't have the pretensioner, so I just installed the tensioner to proper torque before torquing the cam sprockets.
So the 1.6 turbo IS an interference engine?
yes unfortunately
BTW, I took mine in to claim the 100K warranty on the timing chain, the stealer wants more of my hard earned money before they would let me claim the warranty repair. He did admin that there is an extended warranty for this issue on MINIs up to 100k
hey i have a 08 mini s started to hear the rattle at 84k miles i was wondering if u knew if mini did any recalls on this issue? if not im probly going to have to do it myself because broke college students cant afford a 1500$+ repair on a mini thats only worth 6k.
My best advice is reach out to MINI USA, or wherever you may be. Using your VIN, they'll be able to tell you everything about the car.
Great vid. Will you share the manual you were using to help provide guidance? Keep motoring!
Haynes manual from AutoZone. Thanks!
Is this engine the Same in a 2012 mini Cooper all4s countryman
no, the 2012 countryman has the n18 engine.
what torque wrench is that? great vid.
It's a snap on digital. I actually didn't like it, I would have preferred a manual torque angle gauge.
Great video (and, as you mentioned the one by Mini Adventure). On the crank holding tool @ 42:10 do you have the dimensions of the 4 drilled holes so I can fabricate my own, too?
I used a 3/8 drill bit, I think. Anything near the size of the crank pulley bolts should be fine. Thank you!
What is the distance between the centre of the 3 holes (or just 2 of them actually and the third creates the triangle)?. Rather than make one on the fly, I want to try and make one before I attempt the job. Thanks
Tech question! I havent watched tbe hole video so apologise if its mentioned. Are the bolts for the gears on the end of the cam stretch?
Yes, they must be replaced once removed
hey , your video is awesome you made it look easy :) I was wondering how much time it took you too complete ?
I’m planning on changing just the tensioner on my r56 mcs, as a novice, is there anything I need to know?
That the chiltons guides at your library and that the haynes manual is both online and in a book form....
Drag that you said the valve cover bolts had a certain direction but then you didnt show.
thanks for this video, Its going to help alot
What kind of Battery Operated Impact Gun are you using? :)
Ray it's a Milwaukee M18 3/8 impact driver. Definitely a go-to.
TwoGuys TwoMinis I really appreciate the reply. I will definitely go hunt that down. Always wanted a battery op impact gun.
Did this last weekend plus valve seals with the head on my r56 jcw n14
Oil comsupsion drop very much
Took the all weekend
You didn t use the locking pin properly and several steps were wrong that holding tool is uselless in this engine
Nicely done
Holy hell man, thanks for this
Where can I buy one of those crank tools? want to send me that fab'd up one you made? (jokes) ... need to find one tho, seriously lol
Very good job.
what timing chain kit did you buy?
It was a compilation of parts from Way motor works.
How can it make that noice only ones in a month?
To tell the truth as an overall you made a good video man good job !
Excellent video.
Can you explain to me, why should replace all crankshaft & camshaft bolts. Thank you!
They are one time use bolts. Re-use could lead to failure because of the way the bolt is made, they get weak after one torque sequence. Hope this helps!
TwoGuys TwoMinis Thank you for your great video which is very helpful!
gd job guys,,,,ive one to do tomorrow
Good job !
Ok, I don't think I can do that. My heart sank when the motor almost hit the floor hanging on to just one motor mount. Great video though! I don't think I could handle getting the motor lined back up to put the mount back on by myself. Did you do that without help?
Thanks good video
Fa ancora rumore.La distribuzione non si puó fare cosí.Va smontato il motore sollevato.
Thank you.
Sorry, each to their own, but your ear lobes are making me feel queasy...Did you install earrings with a BMW special tool?
I’ve done this too many times can do it in a couple hours
That was 181 degrees. You f'ed up.
It sure sounded like shit when you started it