Mechanical Fuel Pumps explained for street car - Platinum Tech
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- Опубликовано: 14 фев 2019
- For more info and sales: www.platinumracingproducts.com/
In this issue of Platinum Tech, Herman talks about mechanical fuel pumps and how they can now be used in street cars and are a better option that an array of noisy external pumps that drain your electrical system. 
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The most underrated program on RUclips
jalen yellock
And the HP channel by that Kiwi soundin bloke
@@muntee33 I was going to mention them too, both are great if you want to go fast.
"It may be defectable, But thats not my problem" hahaha Love it
Mechanical fuel and dry sump the world !!!!
Heritage Car Style
And... Completely seperate and independent oiling systems for head and block, electric water pump and fan, and electric pump, or hydraulic/pneumatic accumulator for turbocharger oil circulation cooldown instead of idletimer. (Bit noisy and fumey in carport or underground carpark. Bloody annoying at servo, or anywhere really where unwanted attention is drawn. -like day care, near annoyed dogs, anywhere near police lol, inspecting rental properties, meeting potential clients etc etc-
The howl world ❤
might be defectable - if you're needing to run a mech fuel pump, i think there are atleast 10 other things higher up on the defect list at that point lol
great vid
Thank you
@@hermanurriola138 Could you develop one that runs off the back end of the camshaft instead?
I'm really feeling these in depth tech vids. Thank you motive and platinum
Love a mechanical pump for big power. My setup make's like 55 wheel all day, no startup issues
I love how informative these videos are. Always interesting and just awesome!!!
this channel was great, now with all the mechanical info and tests it is absolutely awesome!
Thank you
Listening to this rob dahm... need a similar setup for the 20b
hahah yeah :D hook it to inlet cam
eXViLs - 8B008B what cam?
i was thinking about poor rob dahm as well lol
Who cares about Rob dahm stop living on RUclips..he’s a dude that just blows his shit up pays for tuning and other dumb shit and gets his shit blown up
@@msengineeringdavid3702 what exciting stuff do you have going on that makes you able to talk mad shit
Excellent info as usual as I have come to expect from this series.
This came with the right timing! My wife is getting annoyed by those 044's. Thanks guys!
Loved the video, I really had no idea mechanical pumps were actually that practical
Thanks for the update! I think I would go with the split setup. It looked really nice, and things are nice and easy to get at.
Many seem to think so
love the technical videos these days..
I love these no-nonsense videos
Loving these tech videos, and love Herman's passion.
Ohh thanks man, I feel I'm a bit to serious so I have been working on lightening them up a little :)
Mechanical fuel pumps are on OEM older 80's 70's 60's 50's engines. Nothing new here . But most of them are driven by the engine it's self and not a belt like most mechanical fuel pumps nowadays. Nice information and video
Feels good supporting PRP, and safe that their tech is going in my engine! Greetings from Sweden
Great to hear! We only work with companies we trust and respect and can work with. Our Platinum Tech features have lead to the development of new parts already.
Good solid vid! always wondered how mechanicals work.
Great videos and very informational! My next rb build will be with prp parts
Loving the content - I just got an R33 GTR and its so hard to find content on it!
Great video, just 1 small thing to make the video better next time is to bring the focal length of the camera in a little bit so that Herman is in focus instead of the engine that 5 feet behind him. Love the content, keep it up Andrew.
That's not focal length, but focus or aperture.
These tech videos are awesome!!!! Nice work guys!
Also see a rotor housing on the bench in the background. Rotary video coming soon?
Rotor coil is yes :)
hadn't thought about fuel pump.
Herman Urriola sweeeet!
How would you drive a mechanical fuel pump on a rotary?
Great knowledge explained well 👌🏼
i freakin love these tech vids
Becoming my favourite channel
Don't fret 2JZ boys, Powerhouse Racing makes a mechanical fuel pump adapters for Weldon mechanical fuel pumps. It is run off the intake cam wheel just like this
PRP make this for JZ's too haha.
Prp already does it 👍🏼
Don't most run the jz pumps on the crank or am I just seeing a crazy amount of them
Informative...times are a changing
Have you taken into consideration pdm's and how much better those are with voltage? And wiring
My Question Is Do You Offer Serpentine Belt Pulley Options? I Could Fabricate A Mount For It In Place Of One Of My Idler Pulleys On My Drive Belt And Figure Out What Pulley Size I Need For Operating RPM Range Based On Crank Size. However I Feel Like These Pumps May Not Have Proper Bearings For Forces On A Serpentine Drive Belt Set Up. My Biggest Problem I'm Having With Intank Pumps Is Once They Get Too Hot They Don't Flow Nearly Enough. I've Been Left Started On Side Of Road On Hot Days. 20 Mins With Pump Off And She's Good To Go. I Thought It Was Vapor Lock For The Longest Time But Found Out The Fuel Pump Motor Resistance Went Way High When It Over Heats And Barely Draws Any Current Resulting I'm Extremely Poor Fuel Delivery.
Forget the '26 do you make one for a 253?
Awesome PRP. I know this is stupid to say but the camshafts already drive the mechanical fuel pump for Gasoline Direct Injection, It's kinda the same thing but for a different aspect of the fuel system as DI is used for High Pressure and sprayed into the cylinder directly while the mechanical pumps for racecars like Herman from PRP states Racecar's have had these for along time. I can't wait to incorporate this into a daily vehicle xD
nice post cheers
Do you have to remove something in your engine bay to make room for the surge tank in a GT-R? I imagine there's not a lot of space and wanting to install a dry sump isn't going to do it any favors.
Would it be any good for direct injection or not enough pressure?
Do you need a primer pump on an RB to start the car at cranking?
Can you use a Hks Vcam kit with this option added on?
will this fit on on vvti 13b? asking for a friend
you can also run a cable ( or shaft, just cable style is more common to see looks like a flexible rotary drermal tool adapter ) drive to the back of the car were the main fuel tank is, like a lot of turbocharged V-8 do and saves the what of a "surge tank" but for a streetcar it's still recommend to have a priming pump ( i should still should start without it. just might be hard starting ) just to get all of the air out of the lines and on start up ideally having say 60-psi after its running and the mechanical pumps up to 60ish then shut off the electric pump
lovely mate
Nice and informative video as usual, thank you!
Would love to see a video with different trigger setup offerings.
Now factory installed Nissan 360 optical CAS is a very good system in theory, it gives a very precise measurement provided that
- ECU has enough computation power or a dedicated trigger preprocessing unit
- there is no play anywhere in the entire assembly (disk to intermediate shaft, sensor to disk, intermediate shaft to camshaft)
In practice though it is affected by harmonics and can misread cam position if there is even a small play anywhere in the assembly.
Would like to know your opinion on the factory system and on alternatives like AEM CAS disk, crank trigger setups and what rev level makes them preferable to the factory system, and how it would affect fuel phasing, and whether using an aftermarket triggering system would imply switching from sequential to batch fire fueling.
we are about to release our trigger kit one, have you seen the latest haltech one? goes into depth with our help
check it out
@@hermanurriola138
Hey Herman, appreciate for response! Would like to use this opportunity and say thank you for the videos where you meticulously test blocks' geometry and hardness and enlighten us on their construction, I've learned a lot from them and from your other videos as well.
Regarding factory CAS - I saw that Haltech video and honestly I'm not entirely convinced that factory CAS is all that bad. Replacing CAS with 1-tooth sync sensor doesn't eliminate belt stretch or wobble, it basically roughens signal precision 30-fold and then relies on ECU to do its math on injection and ignition phasing. From that point on it's just the matter of how much "ticks" ECU internal clock does between cam sync and crank tooth, how fast the processor is and what heuristics/algorithms it uses to approximate timing. It's still not exactly precise, particularly when the engine is accelerating or decelerating at a fast rate.
I'm also not entirely convinced that power levels are a good reference when CAS replacement is being pondered. True, on high-boost application 4 degrees of error on spark advance could cost you an engine and 4 degrees of retardation could cost you lost HP and overheated exhaust valves, but both are consequences, not causes of the initial problem - the belt stretch or to be more precise inconsistency of connection between cam and crank position. I may be wrong, but I'd expect belt stretch to occur more readily on an engine that has lighter rotating assembly with 300kw than on a 500kw engine with heavy pistons, rods and crank since the former would accelerate faster and therefore stretch the belt more. I'd also expect it to be dependent more on the level the rev limiter is set to.
Power level reference also doesn't explain why some people have problems tuning off of factory CAS at 280kw/7500 RPM, while others are running without any trouble at 400kw/8500 RPM.
I'm also not sure that crank positioning is the major thing that should be taken into account with cam signal left solely for sync purpose. You've raised a very good point why it is necessary for 4-stroke engines to have a cam sync signal in order to utilize proper sequential fuelling and ignition, but I'd say that defining all four strokes solely based on crank position would be a simplification. A more accurate statement would be that
- intake stroke ends and compression stroke starts when intake valves are fully closed and ends a little before pressure wave from ignition starts to push on the piston
- power stroke starts with the ignition and ends when exhaust valves open
- exhaust stroke starts when exhaust valves open
when exhaust stroke ends and intake stroke starts is dependent on cam setup, valve overlap, intake and exhaust flow harmonics, boost and exhaust gas pressure and a lot of other things, which are specific for each engine configuration and must be tuned for.
I'm writing those obvious things to make a point that most of events that are important from engine management POV are more dependent on camshaft position than on crank position. In that regard CAS on its own does a very good job at providing an ECU with all the necessary info for proper engine management.
Factors like belt stretch appear to me to be a constant you can tune for provided that you use same belt manufacturer and model all the time and that belt tensioner and idler are doing their job.
This leaves the aspect of how tightly and solidly the factory CAS is attached to its driving camshaft. Obviously if there is a play in the place where one is connected to the other, no amount of tuning and belt tensioning would result in accurate engine management.
Unfortunately, there was no info in that video answering that question, but I guess that is to be expected since cam sync plate you offer is mounted solidly on the cam gear.
Factory CAS is really a very smart and ingenious assembly that makes ECU programming very straightforward - since it has 360 cuts on its outer ring, all ECU has to do once long sync cutout begins is to count small cuts until it ends. When sync cutout ends, it stops counting and evaluates that number and uses it as an index to access certain data tables. By doing that it learns exactly what cylinder it has to fuel and/or fire. There is no time consuming operations for ECU, no divisions, just a very basic increment followed by a branch and memory access.
What's bad about it is that it requires very direct and solid connection to its driving camshaft, which may not be the case on older RBs. Also if there are harmonics when the ECU counts small cuts, it can become inaccurate and count 2-4-6 extra cuts, if one small cut flies back and forth in front of the optical detector within large cutout in front of the other, and that can spoil sync detection big time.
With the factory CAS the tuner must also be absolutely certain that ECU receives a good clean signal from the CAS, that wiring is in good shape and that there is no electromagnetic interference anywhere between CAS and ECU - since at 8000 RPM the ECU has to pick up a square-wave signal at a rate of 24 000 pulses per second from the 360-cut factory CAS disk. This can be easily spoiled by a broken wire.
In my own point of view a good and inexpensive solution to fix factory CAS inconsistency would be to manufacture (laser cut?) a replacement disk with larger and fewer cuts (like AEM replacement disk, but it has a bit too few cuts IMO). It basically does the same thing as split crank-cam 24+1 tooth setup - reduces amount of signals produced by CAS (but not 30-fold), makes them less sensitive to EM-interference and less demanding to calculating power of the ECU, but unlike split crank-cam setup it wouldn't require rewiring and replacing crank belt gear. This solution would be aimed at the consumers who already use an aftermarket ECU, but are not interested in all-out high-RPM race builds.
@@PK-lk5gs Oh yeah I've got research to do! Brilliant comment mate!
@@jdmimportlogistics Thanks! Mind if I ask what are you researching this for?
im not too hyped about having a surge tank up front for a street car but this looks really interesting!
you can have the surge up the back, we will release a video on how to do that soon.
Don’t have an Audi RS3 but will this fit an E46? Just having trouble chopping barras? Would you sit in my car while I drive around and tell the internet I have a 10sec car with my custom exhaust and k&n filter and 40psi in my wheels? Would really appreciate your help.
Thanks
fpv335 you ford boys will get a laugh out of the rs3 vs barra race for a long time.the way it happened was gold.
All the new direct injection petrol engines have a mechanical fuel pump. Also correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the Gibson R32 GTR did have a mechanical fuel pump but I don't think it had a fuel pressure regulator so the fuel pressure increased with rpm not manifold pressure. I could be totally wrong I just might not have seen it.
you have to respect this guys brain.i still love his 1j and rb block vid.these jz blocks are starting to piss me off lol. keep the vids coming mate.you keep it simple but also spot on info.cheers
is this suitable for direct injection engines? i have a direct injection car (ford fiesta st) that has a mild tune doing about 260 to 270php at the crank and the HPFP is already running at approx 2900psi at wide open throttle. the issue is the cam lobe isn't aggressive enough so the pump is working over time, there are after market cams that fix this issue but i don't want to to go opening the head, and having to deal with that sort of thing. is it possible to run this system on a direct injection system and delete the HPFP?
No, a direct injection engine NEEDS a HPFP. You can't run it on a regular 3~ bar fuel system. They require such high pressure because you're squirting fuel directly into the combustion chamber, where the pressure is massive. If the fuel wasn't at a higher pressure, you'd just end up forcing intake charge air into the fuel system.
Pumaspeed have some options, with a Bosch Motorsport HPFP being the "best", but it costs a lot. To be honest, changing a camshaft really isn't a big deal, so I'd just do it...
How will the mechanical fuel pump work on a Rotary engine
Dope!! I still need to see an update on the R32. Its been to long
We agree. Our new head is nearly ready and our bottom end is ready to assemble. The boys at CRD are busy but well get onto it soon and it will be running by end of March
Awesome!! Can't wait to see the new build and see what it puts down
Can you get them for Audi Rs3?
BruvaJackson, don’t think so, but I have one on my Barra powered bus.
Don't VW's and Audi's have a mechanical fuel pump already? My 2010 GTI has a mechanical fuel pump....
Aren’t all these newer Audi direct injection? They already have mechanical pumps. 😂😂
@@renners9636 Have you got a link or info where you got the pump for the barra mate?
Yeah, mechanical pumps that need to be upgraded when you raise the power levels, and hold ~150bar.
Comment stands.
Old carbureted cars had mechanical pumps, but they didn’t have one if these.
Will this fit my honda?
noob question; With mechanical driven off the cam presumably the flow increases with engine rpm? does pressure increase too?
In theory it would, but you still have a fuel pressure regulator in the system that dictates fuel pressure. So no, the fuel pressure will still be controlled by the FPR. The fact that the fuel pump speed is reliant on engine speed is a good thing, because it means you aren't circulating a shit ton of fuel that you don't need whilst not on the throttle hard.
How do these go at part throttle? Can they be metered or are they constant displacement?
Metered by engine rpm
I've got a question I wanna swap my electric fuel pump to a mechanical one can I run it off the accessorie belt? Since the engine has a timing chain not a belt
there are options. i thin cleetus just got one for his drag car, you should check out his video
Yeah, you just need to fab or buy a bracket to do it.
Guys, would you do a CRANKSHAFT comparison video of RB25/26/30 vs 1/2JZ????
It would be very interesting to see the material and all the journal diameters!?
I know he was talking about having the pump in the front of the car because it doesn't work as a good scavenge. We on the other hand I have my pump halfway between the gas tank in the back and the engine by way of flexible shaft driven from a belt drive in the front. Haven't had any problem yet.
He was talking about the surge tank being up front. I don't know what motor your running but I'm assuming you don't have belt driven cams to run the pump from and that's why you've got a belt driven pump off the crank pulley with the cable keeping it close to your surge...…..Same principle just different ways of keeping the mech pump close to its source to minimize cavitation etc.
does it put big stress on timing belt, harmonic balancer etc?
It sure does, but the stress it's much lower than, say, when you install stiffer valve springs
Hardly, i will post up some data after testing
Herman wouldn't the system be limited by the lift pump? Like if it only rated for 400hp like a Walbro 255 or is the lift pump more about flow than pressure
No. Lift pump fills the surge tank like normal. Mechanical pump draws from, and returns to, the surge tank. Its like sizing an external pump and surge tank, you make sure surge tank is big enough to last the longest full throttle application.
@@MotiveVideo oh I understand so the lift pump is only really needed to fill the surge tank and after it's full the mechanical pump does the work.
@@AdmissionGaming Exactly the same as a normal external fuel pump and surge tank set-up
@@MotiveVideo ok thanks Andrew, learnt something new today. Really enjoying these videos.
no, limited by the volume in the surge tank, but ill give you a quick scenario, if your "2000 hp" engine uses roughly 20 litres per minute, and you had a 3 litre surge tank, you could be full throttle for 10 seconds before it would run out, now with 2000 hp, you are never on full throttle for more than 10 seconds, (6-8) at best, so as soon as your off the throttle the lift is catching up and it does it quickly ..
witch is best mechanical fuel pump or brushless pump for the long hall???
Mechanical you can't go wrong with Waterman and brushless I think aeromotive have a great one at the moment
What max fuel pressures are you attaining with these small and large pumps?
You could make way more than any injector can safely hold. There is a mechanical fuel pump to cope with any power level
Really shouldn’t of watched this video because I just went and paid my tuner more $$$ to set up mechanical fuel pump 😅
At first glance it seems like a bad idea running a fuel pump off the camshaft - doesn't the extra load on the belt cause the belt to stretch and the timing to wander?
The load won't be vastly different to that of the valves. Many OE setups drive the HPFP from the camshaft.
You guys should compare the tb48 block to the RB
MSengineering David stfu with the compare this compare that, this vid has nothing to do with engine comparions ffs
wrx2hot4u with a name like that you really stay out of my mentions try “wrxonjackstands” that’s more what you sound like.
MSengineering David hahaha do you like my nick/handle? Guess what era it was created?
wrx2hot4u :crickets:
MSengineering David it was created during autosalon days in Sydney as a piss take on lebo’s and there 100k sex spec builds. Get sense of humour and dont be so serious!
Would it be possible for you guys to get a hands on a hybrid RB34?
Hybrid? more info please
Herman Urriola look up R.I.PS RB34
Hang on - the lift pump STILL needs to be able to meet the maximum fuel flow of the mechanical pump, and a little extra to ensure the header is kept full, and have enough pressure to ensure it is pumped through the restrictive lines at that volume rate? I REALLY doubt the OEM setup will be anywhere near managing that and higher power installations will potentially need the whole electrical wiring, pump(s) and lines uprated anyway?
However, I could very well be mistaken and would be interested in feedback either way, for different applications?
There are two things that you maybe didn't consider.
Nobody drives their 1000+hp cars at full throttle for minutes. And the flow of a normal electrical fuel pump is much higher at near zero "backpressure".
@@Karpo1986
I would remind you - the mechanical pump is roughly proportional to rpm, not load, so the lift/prime pump generally needs to exceed that flow, especially if the return is to the tank. While flow is increased, and current draw reduced, with the reduced pumping head, there is still some head and it is VERY unlikely an OEM will free-flow enough to feed a significant power increase.
IF the pump vacuum head is sufficient, taking into account the launch 'G' and fuel temperature - lower pressure in pump feed line and increasing temperature increases the risk of fuel vapourisation* (boiling) in the line which is worse with alcohol containing fuels, I would even look at a pure mechanical system with LARGE bore lines/hoses and fittings.
*On that are you Aussie chaps running fuel coolers - they are not uncommon for carb' cars at high ambient temperatures?
What fuel system do I need for my RS3 to destroy Barra owners lives?
Same as diesel. Mechanical pump with 2600bar pressure ;) Good advice for petrolheads.
700-800 thousand hp? Crikey!
Na jokes. I’m all for fuel/water/oil pump,alternatives. Or any alternatives that challenge the status quo... (electric assisted driveling es with power regeneration abilities on braking ((Nio EP9)) electric assist turbos, composite materials for heat regulation, synthetic and bio fuel mixtures, low drag coefficient targets as well as power to weight targets, and many more, more ‘out there’ alternatives)
Currently considering an auxiliary electric oil pump and bits for my turbocharger set up on my street driven, ‘weekend’ car...
I wonder why oil lubrication systems can’t use a regulated system to maintain adequate oil pressure to bottom end but supplies only the oil supply the rest of the system can handle at any given rpm, this would also allow for a ‘pre-lube’ function to run along side the fuel pressure priming system. Even if the system is a basic one and merely cuts the ignition for the first few revolutions to get oil pressure up before firing. Although a stand-alone, electric pre-lube pump would be ideal and could have a solenoid to divert oil only through the turbo system and take over oil supply duties on shutdowns. Not required on track driven cars but bloody handy for cars that have to refuel at local servos or finish their journey in a confined public space like an underground car park at woolies.... Also can be a bit obnoxious to others at certain destinations Ie; near dwellings where people’s young children may have finally been put too sleep. Or to your neighbors when you get home at 3am....
Any thoughts or advice?
What about the Stagea blocks? Any different?
we do cover this in one of the block comparison vids
For the last 100 years they were mechanical fuel pumps, but the only issue i see is that again, you still have to et someone to replace the current electrical system and then run the mechanical system so most of the cars which have multi electrical fuel pumps have already spent the money ,why someone has not made a better electrical system is beyond me, but still good to see someone re inventing the wheel with better products, soon they will have a better electrical system and simpler system as well to compete? Just like Craig Davis electric Water pumps and not mechanical ? So basically its a crank driven fuel pump or cam driven, just like the older dizzy's and mechanical fuel pumps on the older fords and holdens. :)
They sell upgraded alternators but that's not the point. Electric pumps have their limits, are noisy, pain to setup and worst of all is if one of 3-5 electric pumps fail you wont know it till its lean at 7k wot.
Do you run a return line from surge to tank?
You have to
The second pump location would be great for a scavenging pump for the rb heads since they fill up with oil
i like it
Finally some Logic!
Do they make something for the LSX world??? That would be cool.
Yeah but they use a belt drive instead of the cam.
Why would a mechanical set up get defected? Every old car came from the factory with a mechanical pump.
For the surge tank in the bay?
no its just aftermarket there for deflectable in some countries.
Anything like this for a 350z?
It can be made to fit
Old race car tec always work s
Just continue building on that r32 gtr why no new videos on that build
But will this work for a sr20vet? Thats the real question
Twister7Studios errrr obviously not since its an RB lol that said they probably do something for the SR.
we would have to make a billet rocker cover, and SR people don't seem to want to spend that much coin? your thoughts?
@@hermanurriola138 or belt driven mechanical fuel pump, driven off the same belt as the external oil pump if running a dry sump, if the belt fails you lose fuel pressure and oil pressure, which in turn is a security point of view the engine will not continue running without oil pressure like it would with a cam driven mech pump or a electric fuel pump. Currently building an sr20ve with this setup in mind
Herman Urriola unfortunatley your correct i am sad to say. Thanks for the reply tho.
@@hermanurriola138 i would definitely be interested if you guys ever were to build one. Im thinking of switching to electric a/c when i break down the build. So anything i dont need on the electrical system would be a huge plus.
👌🏽
Simple is best
But what if you don’t have cams? :(
than you get a belt driven pump or better yet replace your dorito machine with an LS
Oeh, i see a rotor in the back.....next vid on rotaries?
coil kit due to release any minute
noob question: whar car is it at 0:39?
s13 silvia
Really ? Why you still not make videos on the tt that you bought?
Cuz ppl mainly want to see nissan things on this channel
ClutchkickPJ this doesn’t answer my question
hp loss?
Bmw n54 uses a mechanical hpfp. Wish someone would make an upgrade
khaim5 b there is an upgrade..
@@msengineeringdavid3702 well post a link, I know of there are a few companies that off a modified factory pump but I am looking for a 1000+ hp capable pump.
khaim5 b look up xdi and there is another company that lets you add a second injection pump.
@@msengineeringdavid3702 found ttfs, said they developed it with xdi, but its $2k and you are forced to use their software. That's a bit much. I know R&D cost a lot but damn.
khaim5 b if you’re unable to spend 2k this anit for you regular port injection aftermarket injectors and pumps are 1500-2500 all together also I doubt tffs developed the pump xdi is a ex Bosch engineer for common rail fuel injection.
But can you run one in something 300-400hp?
For that low power a simple walbro 250 could support that bud
@@clutchkickpj693 for sure. walbro 460 here. Was just curious.
yes sir, a 200 series pump will nail that, there is technical data on our website with flow rates that will help.
You know it's an electrical system not a voltage system right?
Yes. not everyone gets the perfect word out when the stress of the camera is on them
5:36 thats a rusty pair of cams lol
"the voltage system" ?!
Haha. Never heard of it.
A voltage system is alternator, battery and starter motor if you don't have enough power in the system as a hole you can't crank the engine to start it, like having 3 fuel pumps draining the entire systems power
@@DatBoiOrly We know what he means. But its' called the electrical system. Not voltage. Voltage is not a 'system'
C'mon guy's start making stuff for 2J's too......We're missing out here :)
Just run a belt driven setup if you cant find a kit.
Holy price though
Wow, a mechanical fuel pump seems like a no brainer.
I thought so long as the mechanical pump isn't modified further it was legal and didn't even need a certificate so long as it's secured, supported and shielded. 😕😕 That's in their rules and I quote: "All components used are unmodified." So unless Hermann is hitting the pump with a Dremel, I don't know what the problem is from the governments view? 🤔🤔🤔
I'm actually qualified as a VSCCS engineer, and as its not OEM it needs a certificate, not saying that cant be obtained, but it looks far from standard so its a little tricky, not that a police officer would know what he is looking at.
@@hermanurriola138 Thanks for the clarification Hermann. I'm looking at it from a legal standpoint as the governments terminology allows a loophole that could be exploited, like using disconnectable nitrous bottles back in the day when they introuduced the ban on the street. They make no mention of having to use OEM parts and LM 1.1 even states it as "alternative fuel pumps" with zero clarification through the regulations to whether it must be OEM or even whether it is an electrical or mechanical type. Once again, thanks for the reply Hermann. 👍
Lol watch the hoonigans videos where the guy brings old chevy with stroker motor and he said i have a mechanical fuel pump because it never breaks and car is making 2000/3000hp something like that .... And the moment he started his car ..guess what ..fuel pump broke 😂😂😂😂😂😂
should have bought Kinsler :)
1000th viewer
Your alternator does become an issue sir more amps better whether your using 6 pumps or not.
My notifications have betrayed me.😤
I stopped washing my clothes. Too much strain on the 'voltage system'
9:37 There's no need to buy this part, but it looks bitchin' so we keep selling it.
Aeromotive fuel pump controller for a big pump on a street car. PWM
that doesnt elimintate the need for 4 + pumps at wide open though
@@scootbmx01 I was referring to his comment about 1 big pump on the street heating the fuel. I understand the need for these setups on 1500hp cars