Squeaky Alternator Belt?
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Alternator V-Belt, part number 7400 - Amazon Link: amzn.to/3VS9jUp
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a 347 Stroker and T5 transmission.
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When I did the restore on my 66 fastback I had a belt that was squeaky. Turned out to be an alignment issue. The water pump pulley was about 1/16" out of line. I found 4 washers the correct size and thickness, put them between the pulley and pump snout and that cured it 100%. May not be part of youe issue but others may have this issue. Thanks
Yeah, I’m good there, but it’s amazing how something small like that can cause so much havoc. 😁
I love that you admit your mistakes and let others learn from them. That’s someone who is more interested in learning what’s right than always being right no matter what. Takes character and integrity to be responsible to your audience like that.
Cheers Andy.
I appreciate the support! I am far from a Pro on these cars, or mechanical work in general, but if I want to earn my viewer's trust, it start's with honesty, transparency, and actually caring. I'm a work in progress. :)
I have four old Ford/Merc cars, and don't pay any of them the attention they deserve, so I am selling two this year and keeping the others to work on more. You are an inspiration in that, work the bejezus out of one car and go into all the minutia to get it right and keep it right. Yeah, the squeaks and funny noise are a pain on these old beasts, but you have them on newer cars too. It's man-made machinery, so it Has to go wrong sometimes. I had that belt squeak on my 64 Fairlane (it's for sale) and it was worked out by some adjustments, alt., PS pump, etc., and just driving it more. Not a problem on my 64 Caliente with same exact engine set up, on a 302, (also for sale) but never had it on my 67 Cyclone (keeping it) or my 64 Ranchero (keeping but needs lot of work and will do like you do, one thing/mod at a time). I like your "monte carlo bar" for example! How much?
Thanks a bunch, Andy, and keep up the good work, or, buy one my cars and start the journey on it too. They don't need much. LOL. Nice thing is all the stuff on your car as is very similar to my 64's (that's why I watch you sometimes with a similar issue), in fact my Ranchero probably should be called a Mustero or Ranch-tang for example!! It has so many "Musting parts" on it!! LOL ;D
I don't think the CFO will let me get another project car right now. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I totally understand, I don't want to push it either with my CFO! LOL ;D
Great trouble shooting Andy! Your great common sense serves you well. Having the same squeeky belt issue too. The belts I bought seem to be too short, (very hard to get on pully) or too long and I run out of adjustment on the slider adjustment. Squeeks regardless of which one is on. Gonna go to the 3/8" width also now after seeing your set up. Want the 1/2" up and down play on belt so I don't put too much pressure on the Alt bearing and fry it. Thanks much for sharing. Much appreciated sir.
Awesome, good luck!! :)
I've done both of the alternator swaps you've recommended and both have worked great. On this 1-wire swap, aside from clocking the alternator, I also used the pulley from my old alternator to solve the squeak. The pulley on the Power Master was smaller than the old pulley, so I just swapped them, put a new belt on (after I broke the old one) and all has been good so far. Thanks for the video--they are really helpful.
Awesome, glad it worked out. :)
I had no end of issues of finding the right size belt to get the right tightness with available adjustment. Now I have a garage full of wrong size belts.
I have begun my collection too. :)
I had the same issue. For whatever reason it was impossible to find a belt that fit flush in the groove.
Hey Andy, the test I use is grabbing the cooling fins and turning the alternator with my fingers. If it slips you’ll have trouble. If it doesn’t you’re good.
FYI, my oem pulley is 2-3/4 OD.
Also, retighten the belt after 50 ~ 100 miles.
I wasn't able to spins the fins without putting my gorilla grip on there, so I don't know if that is a good enough gauge. :)
I enjoy this format as well. The thinking out loud part is good because when I find myself wondering, second guessing myself, sometimes ordering a wrong part, I can remember there is another guy out there going thru the same process. Good to know we're not alone...
If only I could give you a $ amount of what I've wasted in the last few years on getting something I don't need, or ordering the wrong part, or just not fully understanding what I was doing, I could buy another project car. :)
I like the longer form content. More of a conversation and makes for a great video!
Thanks Brotha!!
Great video to help install a one wire alternator...it is on my bucket list. Look forward to your videos!!
Thanks for the support! :)
Hi Russell, If running fans, fog lights, water and fuel pumps and other accessories, I highly recommend you get one with high amperage. 100 amp is gonna struggle. I have a new 110 amp one wire from the stock 75 amp OEM one and wish I would have gone higher amp now.
Andy , you can re-clock the back of the alternator so that the battery wire threaded stud is further to the passenger side !
Understood, but that's not the problem I was having in this video, it was the bolt for the ground wire on the front surface of the head that was hitting the alternator. Moving that ground wire to a different location on the head or block is what I need to do. :)
There should be a hole on the side of the block for the ground wire.
Instead of the lock washer just use a wider diameter washer so it will have a better grip on the alternator bracket....this will hold the belt tight.
I didn’t have one at the time and it has been a few weeks without any issue, so I’ll leave it for now. 🙂
Andy, you have to go with a dual belt set-up if you want to keep the V-belt. It will eliminate the squeaking.
I'm not partial to the v-belt, I'd be willing to do a multi-rib, but the cost is more. :)
I had a similar problem with my 302 in my maverick. the alt. Belt was just impossible to keep in adjustment. I went to a CVF racing serpentine set up. It was tough to get installed perfectly, but it works like a dream now. Not cheap, but I would highly reccomend it.
Yeah, that was my next option. I did see that it will be more expensive to get all new pulleys, so I wanted to try this first before I spend it all on a new multi-rib setup. :)
Check with the manufacturer for the ratio they recommend for the alternator. From what I have read 3:1 ratio of drive pulley to alternator pulley diameter is what is recommended for a street car.
I agree, the manufacture will know best on the ideal size ratio. :)
you can clock your alternator , so the terminal is on the other side of the motor
Thanks for the heads up.
The pulley being ground down is likely from a 3g alternator conversion if it was on the alternator facing surface. I had a pulley the style of the Scott drake one you have but a smaller diameter and had to have a friend put it in a lathe and take some material off to have it adequately clear a 3g housing.
Another reason for the alternator squealing is.. well the same reason (belt slipping) but instead of being due to too loose of a belt it's because of alternator load. On my 3g conversion I also have an excessively large group battery and for a while I had a abnormally large parasitic loss which would bring my battery down, the car would function as expected but because of the considerable reserve capacity and the low rpm amperage output curve of the 3g, the alternator load would overcome the v-belt capability, or at least my comfort level for not wiping out the bearings in the alternator from over tightening.
All part of the fun :)
Yeah, over tightening that belt is a concern of mine. It has been a bit since I made this video and there are no issues with the belt squeal. :)
By the way I find your videos interesting , you do the same things I basically do with the discovery of how it could be done differently. I myself am restoring a 65 mustang coupe w/289 . Awaiting the 5 speed trans to be shipped so i can install it.
That 5 speed with be a nice upgrade.
Need the correct pulleys for correct type of belt. The best way I have found is put an idle pulley to keep it tight. The pull size is determined by the normal rpm that the engine runs. It will not charge at idle. Also remember when adjusting the carburetor everything is on and the car in idle. My is a 68 (my 3rd), I turn lights a/c and put it in gear when adjusting. My 140 amp one wire fully charge at 3000 rpm.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
Like I said before header heat damage made my shop rich, you're see, a few more years down the road
I'm a few more years down the road?
Great Video Andy! A high amp single wire alternator is on my list to do, so thanks for fighting the good fight! And would love to see what you do for the header wrap if you decide to change it. Also header wrap stinks for weeks if not months so fyi!
Yeah, those one-wire Alts are incredibly easy to install, and possibly a bump in amperage for your system if you need it.
I'm on the fence about header wrap for the actual headers as I am not finding my under hood temps affecting much. I think have that scoop helps keep the temps down. :)
I have used the DEI wrap on headers/pipes etc, with great success. I seal the wrap with the DEI "Hi-Temp (1500 degrees) silicone coating spray can in several light coats after wrap is dry from putting on wet. Seems to really help with the smell.
Had the same issue with my 57 Belair, also kept throwing belts when I got in it. Finally converted to a Serpentine system.
Yeah, that serpentine belt option is on my list as a backup option, too bad it comes at a significant cost. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Yes, it's pricey, but solves many issues..
Learning a lot from your videos! What to do and what not to do. LOL> Thanks for being honest with your mistakes. We all make them. Building my first car now. 1932 ford coupe with Ford 302 and your videos are helping AND I HAVE MADE PLENTY OF MISTAKES!. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the support! :)
Just a quick note. The lock washer should be placed between the bolt head and the washer. The washer provides the clamping force of the fastener and prevents the bolt head from getting pulled into the bracket groove of hole. The lock washer then puts tension on the underside if the bolt. That lock washer may even be dropping into the groove of the bracket and preventing full travel. Further you probably don’t even need the lock washer as the torque on the bolt shouldn’t be that high.
Resist the urge to reef in that belt tension. Shouldn’t be required to operate correctly and you’ll only put undue stress on the front bearing of that alternator.
Enjoy your Channel.
Thanks for the support!
Such a beautiful car. Finally got a decent job but gotta save up some money and get my credit right. As expensive as these are getting the longer I take the worse it will be.
Thanks!
Yeah, this can be an expensive hobby, but it's worth it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Yup, but still cheaper than, say, golf. And what do they have to show for it, lousy scores after years of practice, and maybe a few of their clubs bent in half, or at the bottom of the water hazards. LOL. I don't golf, I paint and tinker with cars, or better, I get someone else to tinker with the car, and I pay them, in pizza and beer, the "legal tender" for car guys working on friends' cars! LOL ;D
I had to take out one of the bolts that go thru the alternator in order to get mine to clear. I used a 39.5 ⅜ v belt. And I also had to tighten it more than I thought it should be. But my squeak went away. I could only get it tight enough by using the pry bar under the ⅝ bolt from the other side. If your going to use the turn buckle style there is another piece you have to attach to the bolt hole at the bottom of the alternator.( It looks like a teardrop)
Yes, I more or less know what you are referring to for that tear-drop piece. I was thinking of designing one to go with the turnbuckle, but then it gets complicated. If I do A/C or Power Steering down the road, I may need to reroute the belt, possibly change to multi rib pulleys, so maybe I'll until then and see if I need to make anything. :)
Love the rambling, keep up the great work.
Rambling is fine, as long as there's useful or interesting info in there. I think I'm missing the mark. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel your doing fine!
I have used the 7405 belt for years. POWERMASTER and now Tuff Stuff. The belt looks wide in the pulley like the pulley is too narrow
That 7405 belt is wider than that 7400, but they're different brands, so I don't know if that means anything. I agree, the Alternator pulley looks like the groove is skinnier, but that new belt fits great. :)
Put the serpentine setup on after you do electric power steering. I want a serpentine setup also. :-)
I might be able to find a way for you to donate to the "poor Andy fund" if you think it might speed up the electric steering upgrade? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I am sure you could. lol. If I spent as much on the engine as you did, I would be living in the mustang under a bridge somewhere!
Cool, I'll send Matt Foley, the motivational speaker, over to make sure everything is fine. He lives in a van down by the river, so it's kind of the same thing. :)
i use dayco 15405 on my 289. fits good with little bit of adjustment left. no pry bar needed for tension. too tight and the alt bearings will heat/wear faster? no belt squeaking for me with just my hand forcing while tightening.
Yeah, it's seems to be different for everyone. My last Mustang didn't this issue, nor did my previous Alternator. No big deal, it's all sorted out now. :)
I noticed im having this same issue on my 67 302, not so much with the alternator, but the belt doesnt seem to sink in on the crank pulley. I also noticed i have the same 7405 pulley so i think ill try the 7400 and see if that makes a difference
The 7400 is just the belt length. I don't recall the brands, but my current belt fits in the v-groove much better than the brand I had before. :)
just a heads up, the video on your site about the throttle linkage says its unavailable.
Thanks for the heads up, but I just checked it appears to work for me. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel works for me now too. Weird.
How is the alignment on the pulleys??
Fine.
hey andy i just bought your alternator adjustment bar but before my belt keep slipping and actully buring on the alternator you think its to loose or to tight? ive gone through like 6 belts already
I was having a similar problem until I bought a different belt. There's different thicknesses and notches cut into some belts, and the one I have now is doing great. It's from O'Reillys Auto Parts, and it's part number 7400. It's a 3/8" wide belt and 40-13/16" in diameter. Depending on your Hub, Water Pump, and Alternator pulley sizes, that specific belt may not fit your application. But it's been doing great for me. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel i got the same brand as you but my size is a 7410 or a 15410 but saw you mention something that the alternator keep getting lose so hoping your bar works and thats the only issue but thank you
@@andrewlopez4160 That 7410 is two sizes larger (I forget the incremental size, but it goes 7400, 7405, 7410, etc) and you're probably out of adjustment length with the stock slider piece. Also, I think that 15410 is a wider belt, so definitely stick with the 7400 series, it fits in the stock water pump and crank hub pulleys. :)
will go smaller and let you know thank you @@AndyKruseChannel
this is what "we:" call fun... lol
Fun finding the solution, not fun spending money on parts I didn't need. :)
Elbow grease and belt dressing, brother. Then pray to your god.
I think I've been doing all three, maybe I need to bump up my game a little more. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel
She's a cutie.
Belt dressing work great. I spray it down and put it on. A little sticky though.