I owe you some beer, my motor seized up at home and I couldn't get the blade assembly off of the old motor's shaft since it was so rusted. I even tied some rope around it and used all of my weight and it wouldn't budge. I got a sacrificial bit set from Walmart for $15 and was finally able to get it separated so that I could reuse the old blades which were like $75 and wouldn't be here for a while. AC's back up and running which is good timing because it's starting to get into the 80s now and soon the Florida heat will be in full force. Thanks again!
Good tip. You probably already know this too, but I've had great success by putting my crescent wrench on the exposed shaft under the fan (if there is any) and holding it while i spin the fan free. I have had to cut the shaft and pop it out once or twice.
I appreciate your showing your method. Pulling fan blades has always been a challenge and at times even with a puller though most still works! I will try your way next time!
Worked perfectly, thank you! I tried letting it set with WD40, crescent wrench, put some heat on it, etc. There was just too much rust. Had it removed in 2 minutes with some junk bits. Thanks again!
Cool old school fan blade trick! Despite any criticisms that you may have received in the comments, I think this is another piece of knowledge that I might choose to use in the future and that can get me out of a bind, so thank you Ted. Let me share one of my old school tricks with you then? I carry a set of 2 mechanics tie rod end pickle forks in the truck, the heads of the pickle forks are aggressively tapered, so two put together 180 degrees around one shaft can be slowly “wedged” together by lightly tapping each alternately with a light hammer, so they jamb together and slowly wedge the blade off of the shaft. Good quality lubricant (I prefer lard for this application, or alternately Dexron automatic transmission fluid mixed 50%/50% with Acetone, the latter of course being significantly more flammable than the former, lard) is necessary to avoid galling the blade bore. Have you ever tried this trick, Ted? Thanks for your efforts putting these videos together! 😁
I know this is a couple of years old, I did enjoy it. I oiled the hub,polished shaft, oiled many times. Finally thought of useing 3/8 adapter on a hammer drill and I was able to turn fan on shaft and slide it off.
Great your technique saved me, I tried with the puller, hammer and chisel without results ... the puller and wd40 is not everything, sometimes they do not work
why did you drill the shaft ?? if it's not terribly rusted or corroded, I loosen the set screw and use an adjustable wrench underneath the hub and spin the blade........That unit is a York, made for Coleman, Evcon and Frasier Johnson.
I was having trouble trying to remove a GE box fan propeller from a new motor which I decided not to use. I just got through trying your method & finally just got the propeller off the motor.
I have never had good luck with getting the power to turn back on with that type of disconnect box. They always seem to fail after a couple of times being turned on and off. The Kiss Army ROCKS!
Doesn't work for me. I don't have a puller so I thought I would try this and nothing. You left out the part where you "tapped" it to get it off so I have been beating it in every spot I can find except the blades themselves and it won't budge. I will have to wait another 3 or 4 days and order a new fan.
I;ve had more than one "sleeve" bearing motor wear the oilite down enough the rotor started to drag inside, they;d spin free by hand but would jump sideways and lock or heat and lock when powered up..... first I seen that was late 90's ;)
I was taught at Polish tractor factory (Long's) to always soak drill bit with stinkyD 40 at start, then every 15-20 seconds of drilling to increase cut life of bit alot, or use spit if out of spray
I do a similar thing, small pilot hole then a brass punch I get at Harbor Freight to tap the shaft out of the hub. Sometimes, no pilot hole just tap with a brass punch. Brass punch cheaper than drill bit and can be used more than a couple of times.
You clearly need a vacation to have quickly forgotten that you removed the disconnect cover, and it fell to the ground. 🤣 Good work regardless as usual.
Pullers sometimes just squeeze the hub to the shaft even tighter and can distort the blade causing imbalance. I have several pullers but rarely use them... my way is much faster to boot.
DIY Alert: You noted that a free-wheeling motor that locks when powered everyone knows what that means. Well I have that symptom, I measured the winding resistance and checked for shorts and all good. cap and contacter good and 240 to fan. fan seizes when powered (freewheels easy when not powered). The only thing I can find and rarely read on the Google machine is wobbling bearing (lateral movement) can lead to the armature pulling into the windings and seizing when energized; sound plausible? I am going to disassemble the motor today to see if possible to replace the bearings (budget driven).
Spent a whole night soaking blade pin in PB blaster, banging and tapping with hammer, trying to twist, etc. to no avail, the thing is rusted on the motor solid. Let it soak overnight and still no good. That's when I noticed the motor blade was no longer seized, and turning freely. Put it back together and plugged in, and the old motor is now humming away, running fine, with its rust-welded fan. Must have knocked some rust or buildup out of the motor. Well, whose looking a gift horse in the mouth. Works for me....
New blade will usually force the customer to wait another day or even more. Pullers sometimes just squeeze the hub to the shaft even tighter and can distort the blade causing imbalance. I have several pullers but rarely use them... my way is much faster to boot.
New blade will usually force the customer to wait another day or even more. Pullers sometimes just squeeze the hub to the shaft even tighter and can distort the blade causing imbalance. I have several pullers but rarely use them... my way is much faster to boot.
I will always use a crescent wrench oil and sandpaper if I have to once I get the shaft a little bit through the blade hub I'll use a bit and a hammer to knock it the rest of the way through most of the time they just come on sandpaper oil and crescent wrench, I done never done anything else to pull a blade off never
I swear I am the only one who remembers the drilling instructions in 8th grade shop class. Drill with a very slow rpm and use oil. May get a little more life out of the drill bits.
With the looks of those rivets I would have just replace the whole thing.Why waste the time to salvage the fan blade. Replace with new. That disconnect is an abomination.. that's safe!! That motor was replaced before...and nobody is checking as to why that unit needs a second replacement? Glad it's not my house!
Depend on the Customer. Some, when you tell them that the "entire" motor needs replacement, they yell at you. Most People doesn't know that these Motors will burn out through time and it's NOT worth saving. Brand New one would prevent Service Man coming back for a while. But like I said... They don't know and they don't care!
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I owe you some beer, my motor seized up at home and I couldn't get the blade assembly off of the old motor's shaft since it was so rusted. I even tied some rope around it and used all of my weight and it wouldn't budge. I got a sacrificial bit set from Walmart for $15 and was finally able to get it separated so that I could reuse the old blades which were like $75 and wouldn't be here for a while. AC's back up and running which is good timing because it's starting to get into the 80s now and soon the Florida heat will be in full force. Thanks again!
Good tip. You probably already know this too, but I've had great success by putting my crescent wrench on the exposed shaft under the fan (if there is any) and holding it while i spin the fan free. I have had to cut the shaft and pop it out once or twice.
I appreciate your showing your method. Pulling fan blades has always been a challenge and at times even with a puller though most still works! I will try your way next time!
Ted, Nice tip on the drill bit method. I'm going to use that next time I come across the same situation
Thank you for showing a different method for the blade removal.
I always keep a puller (UP-1) on my truck for those stuck blades. Always nice to know another way just in case.
That is a bad ass van with sides that open. Haven't seen that before
Neat trick, thanks it's good to have another method. Removing the fan blades from the motor shafts can be a real bugger sometimes.
An air hammer type of hand tool works really well. Unknown if they make them in cordless but sometimes a hammer drill will also work them loose.
Worked perfectly, thank you!
I tried letting it set with WD40, crescent wrench, put some heat on it, etc. There was just too much rust.
Had it removed in 2 minutes with some junk bits.
Thanks again!
Cool old school fan blade trick! Despite any criticisms that you may have received in the comments, I think this is another piece of knowledge that I might choose to use in the future and that can get me out of a bind, so thank you Ted. Let me share one of my old school tricks with you then? I carry a set of 2 mechanics tie rod end pickle forks in the truck, the heads of the pickle forks are aggressively tapered, so two put together 180 degrees around one shaft can be slowly “wedged” together by lightly tapping each alternately with a light hammer, so they jamb together and slowly wedge the blade off of the shaft. Good quality lubricant (I prefer lard for this application, or alternately Dexron automatic transmission fluid mixed 50%/50% with Acetone, the latter of course being significantly more flammable than the former, lard) is necessary to avoid galling the blade bore. Have you ever tried this trick, Ted? Thanks for your efforts putting these videos together! 😁
good info thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir. That solved my trouble! Same exact AC and seized fan blades. 👍
Nice job revitalizing that ol York beast
Thank you! I just replaced the motor on my AC fan blades were seized this video. Save me a lot of frustration.
Thanks for the tip that's a good thing to know on a Saturday night....
I have a puller I bought 20+ years ago that gets 99% of them off. The other 1% get thrown away. 🔧
As long as the fan blade hub doesn't flex over...yes.
I know this is a couple of years old, I did enjoy it. I oiled the hub,polished shaft, oiled many times. Finally thought of useing 3/8 adapter on a hammer drill and I was able to turn fan on shaft and slide it off.
Great your technique saved me, I tried with the puller, hammer and chisel without results ... the puller and wd40 is not everything, sometimes they do not work
Great idea! You are the Man! Thanks for posting
Good fix and a fair fix. Thats all they needed, simple, fair priced and back in action they are.
why did you drill the shaft ?? if it's not terribly rusted or corroded, I loosen the set screw and use an adjustable wrench underneath the hub and spin the blade........That unit is a York, made for Coleman, Evcon and Frasier Johnson.
That is interesting. My motor puller has only failed a couple of times. This is an option for that. Not my first choice. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Thank you for the great tip.
Awesome tip, thanks for sharing
Great video! Nice trick keep me coming
Dewalt bits are trash
Nice! Keep up the Good Job 👌!
Thanks for showing us how you removed the fan blades..
I was having trouble trying to remove a GE box fan propeller from a new motor which I decided not to use. I just got through trying your method & finally just got the propeller off the motor.
Should try the cobalt coated bits. Work great.
You are a genius man!!!!...
Favorite meter of all time..sucks Fieldpiece discontinued them lol Good video #sc77
Good trick there Uncle.
Thanks, Doc!
That is the trick I’ll use next time thanks Ted
I’ve never tried that method. I’ve always had good luck with a puller
Very cool, never seen it done like that. Ted gave it the ol Ted Gundy mommma
Cory Desormeaux Steve Lav would approve this message
An additional tip: after making a pilot hole (approx 1/4" bit) use an air chisel with appropriate bit. I have had 100% success and no fan damage.
I have never had good luck with getting the power to turn back on with that type of disconnect box. They always seem to fail after a couple of times being turned on and off. The Kiss Army ROCKS!
What’s that cast iron sewer pipe doing on the outside of the wall
should you cut the excess shaft off?
Doesn't work for me. I don't have a puller so I thought I would try this and nothing. You left out the part where you "tapped" it to get it off so I have been beating it in every spot I can find except the blades themselves and it won't budge. I will have to wait another 3 or 4 days and order a new fan.
Thats a heck of a location for a disconnect.... Ive never seen a blade removed like that..... seems to eliminate a lot of struggle.
I would have squirt some of your penetrating oil in the small drill hole then use the larger bit. Cutting oil.
Great tip !
I;ve had more than one "sleeve" bearing motor wear the oilite down enough the rotor started to drag inside, they;d spin free by hand but would jump sideways and lock or heat and lock when powered up..... first I seen that was late 90's ;)
happened to some ball bearing motors also, when the balls and bridging is so worn/gone they move around into a bunch and the rotor goes off center...
cut the shaft and drive it out with a punch using a piece of 1/2" pipe to support the hub. Never fails, and no expensive bits
Nice work Mr.Ted
Little cutting oil and the bits would last a lot longer
Second time watching 7/17/2020
Ted you got 10k subscribers and couldn't find a helper ... Also don't mention you were in the Kiss army anymore ... Lol ... Good vid ...
Peter, Paul, Ace & Gene!
The Gene Simmons method of fan removal 🤟
I wish I knew that trick 3 pullers ago . They r expensive 😀
You left it better than you found it anyways good video Ted
Nice trick , thanks Ted
Can I use a motor with a longer shaft?
Yes u can
I was taught at Polish tractor factory (Long's) to always soak drill bit with stinkyD 40 at start, then every 15-20 seconds of drilling to increase cut life of bit alot, or use spit if out of spray
Sharpening those bits is a piece of cake. I have that red milcrapee and why are those bits sooo short?
Air chisel if you have air or a plug in or cordless sds tool can do it
torch the fork out of the hub, large tip and fast heat to glow, it will likely fall off....
Awesome, never tried the drill bit method. I typically use a brass punch have you tried that before?
Genius alternative to using a puller if you didn't have one on hand like myself!
My way is faster 😎
Never hit that shaft with a hammer, mushroom it every time, i use a puller that has never failed me, though that is a nice tip.
@3:33 My experience is #1 If its old use Acetylene #2 Use Knocker Loose #3 Use a puller #4 Now i will use a drill bit :) GO ARMY LOL
Nice
I do a similar thing, small pilot hole then a brass punch I get at Harbor Freight to tap the shaft out of the hub. Sometimes, no pilot hole just tap with a brass punch. Brass punch cheaper than drill bit and can be used more than a couple of times.
Same here I also have a large brass rod with a hole in the middle to knock shaft down
What about the key way? Mine is locked up
Good trick to keep in the back of my mind.
Aerokroil and an aluminium rod usually do the trick.
Ok job
What about a motor puller. Much quicker. I’m a Ace fan.
wow, I have never seen the side of an Express van open like that. custom?
That number on the motor that started with 024 is a York number.
If you have an oxy/acetylene torch, heat up the shaft red hot and then quench it with water. the thermal shock breaks it free everytime.
Hello sir I’m Hvac techncian I have 4 years experience
You clearly need a vacation to have quickly forgotten that you removed the disconnect cover, and it fell to the ground. 🤣
Good work regardless as usual.
Sean Baker he was talking bout the inner cover for them wires I think
He wasnt talking about that cover there is supposed to be another cover that goes on top of the breaker to cover the wires.
Why not use the fan puller? It's easier and not as messy...
No motor puller?
Pullers sometimes just squeeze the hub to the shaft even tighter and can distort the blade causing imbalance. I have several pullers but rarely use them... my way is much faster to boot.
@@TedCookHVAC understood. It's a matter of preference
Lot of work to reuse an old unbalanced fan prop
Try a "BoltBuster"
DIY Alert: You noted that a free-wheeling motor that locks when powered everyone knows what that means. Well I have that symptom, I measured the winding resistance and checked for shorts and all good. cap and contacter good and 240 to fan. fan seizes when powered (freewheels easy when not powered). The only thing I can find and rarely read on the Google machine is wobbling bearing (lateral movement) can lead to the armature pulling into the windings and seizing when energized; sound plausible? I am going to disassemble the motor today to see if possible to replace the bearings (budget driven).
Buy a motor.
@@TedCookHVAC thank you very much for your response. I really enjoy your videos and have watched many. I ordered a new motor. Thanks much.
Good info, but it literally takes 15 seconds to sharpen a drill bit with a bench grinder. The jig takes maybe 5 minutes to make.
Damn I dont wanna have to drill through the center shaft of the fan lol
Air hammer.. shake it loose or heat it up.
Old York
Tri-pod and a drift/punch.
yells "TORCH TORCH TORCH TORCH"
Warp Warp Warp !!!
I suppose if you cook the flat arm to blade area lol
Why not just use a hub puller and an impact? Takes like 5 min
Spent a whole night soaking blade pin in PB blaster, banging and tapping with hammer, trying to twist, etc. to no avail, the thing is rusted on the motor solid. Let it soak overnight and still no good.
That's when I noticed the motor blade was no longer seized, and turning freely.
Put it back together and plugged in, and the old motor is now humming away, running fine, with its rust-welded fan. Must have knocked some rust or buildup out of the motor. Well, whose looking a gift horse in the mouth. Works for me....
I like the drill tip. I use a brass rod slightly smaller than the I'd of the hub and pound the shit outta it.
This seems far too labor intensive of a way to remove a motor. I have a puller for this and that seems to be away simpler way of dealing with it
New blade will usually force the customer to wait another day or even more. Pullers sometimes just squeeze the hub to the shaft even tighter and can distort the blade causing imbalance. I have several pullers but rarely use them... my way is much faster to boot.
@@TedCookHVAC Some just do not forecast what a job really needs to get 'er dun today.
Milwaukee and ryobi are owned by the same company. They are even made in the same factory.
Why not buy a puller and do it the correct way.
sometimes the puller wont even pull it off but I wouldnt waste my time doing this just get a new blade.
New blade will usually force the customer to wait another day or even more. Pullers sometimes just squeeze the hub to the shaft even tighter and can distort the blade causing imbalance. I have several pullers but rarely use them... my way is much faster to boot.
I will always use a crescent wrench oil and sandpaper if I have to once I get the shaft a little bit through the blade hub I'll use a bit and a hammer to knock it the rest of the way through most of the time they just come on sandpaper oil and crescent wrench, I done never done anything else to pull a blade off never
@@TedCookHVAC well said Ted. Thanks for sharing. You can't get this info from a book.
@@Milerhighlife2011 get u a brass bar works great
Why didn't show how did you remove it ?
I swear I am the only one who remembers the drilling instructions in 8th grade shop class. Drill with a very slow rpm and use oil. May get a little more life out of the drill bits.
Ain't no Taj Mahal mama
Waiting for some super tech “Fan is running backwards”
yo dat dere fan is runnin bass ackwards!
2:57 I thought a bug ran down my screen
Makes my blood boil when people go flipping switches when your trying to work on their ac.
Answer: I don't!
With the looks of those rivets I would have just replace the whole thing.Why waste the time to salvage the fan blade. Replace with new. That disconnect is an abomination.. that's safe!! That motor was replaced before...and nobody is checking as to why that unit needs a second replacement? Glad it's not my house!
Depend on the Customer. Some, when you tell them that the "entire" motor needs replacement, they yell at you. Most People doesn't know that these Motors will burn out through time and it's NOT worth saving. Brand New one would prevent Service Man coming back for a while. But like I said... They don't know and they don't care!
Ted
Deluxe! 🤣