'Very nice'. What an honor to have contact with the 'Pilot' of that aircraft ! ...I've met 'Pappy' Boyington and Bob Hoover at air shows many years ago; something I won't forget...have a great week...
Thank you! I actually find the finish work on a large model is easier than on plastics because it’s more forgiving due to the larger surface. I’m constantly blown away and inspired by the work that comes from the plastic model community.
Another great video Chris. The video doesn’t do your finished work justice. I’m glad I got to see it in person. A classic bird with an awesome presence 🍻
Oh nice plane..a favorite for sure. You did a great job. If you take a old model your not using and practice weathered coloring you will be surprised how easy it is. I use a touch of white or light tan (added white to it) then use some eye droppers to add the color to the main and keep a log of quantities. The only drawback for you is you will have to get a larger airbrush. She came out tremendous. .
Love the Skyraider! Fantastic repaint. At first I thought, why is he repainting it in the exact same scheme? After seeing the final product, now I know! Great Job.
Great job ,i learned alot ...ill get to try out your techniques on my Draken This is one great looking and flying model. I am glade i got to see it fly in person. All those bombs and racks ...thank goodness for 3D printing. Well done one of your best non jet warbird.
Thanks Rodger! Yeah, that printing did simplify those weapons immensely! Could only imagine if I had to layup and build glass ones or something like that.
I’d recommend doing to oil stain/streaking step and then if you wanted to do some sort of shading over panel lines, you might could use a softer lead pencil or some artist charcoals. Otherwise, just forgo the shading step altogether.
It is always good to double check the cg after a repaint or refinish. In this case, it didn’t really change things much. Also, the weight increase was pretty negligible since there wasn’t much prep work required before applying paint.
Nicely done. I am sure you know by now that Skyraider was stationed in NKP ( Nakhon Phantom Royal Thai Air Force Base) . And if you would like to read another great book about that war read My Secret War by Richard S Drury. Again nicely done looks like the real thing.
Man Chris you have skills. You make it all look so easy. Question...how is a process like this affected when you have to go back over the covering with an iron to get out the occasional wrinkle? Absolutely a great looking warbird. Top notch.
How many cans of Tamiya spray paint did you use per color? I have a Carbon Z T-28 I plan on using your methods for foam planes (your F-14 videos) and then painting in the S.E.A. Camouflage. Thanks!
@@Thercgeek that’s about what I figured, but I’ll order heavy so I don’t run out. Thanks for getting back to me. BTW…..received your 2nd book today, “Mastering The Art Of Scale Aircraft Cockpit Detailing” today…..Excellent book!!!! Falls right in line with your first book, and your RUclips videos. Once life calms down a tad I’ll be joining your master classes and get this rolling. Thanks again!
Thanks! Yeah, stl files can be made available, shoot me an email. I’ve been wanting to offer them for sale through my website, but haven’t had a chance to set that up yet.
Awesome job, as always! Do you know if the Tamiya TS clear coats can be used on foam? Is there a brand that works better, or safer on foam, than others? Appreciate your help. Thanks.
Thanks man! I’ve never used the ts clear coats, so can’t really say but I’d be surprised if they didn’t work. I’d recommend testing it first of course. I’ve been liking the rustoleum 2x clears lately. They work well.
I’m not familiar with “spray max clear coat” so can’t say. Epo foam is extremely resilient to solvents, so if you’re spraying it on an epo airframe, I’d be surprised if it doesn’t work.
@@Thercgeek So as of yesterday the CDC is trying to get us to wear double up masks. I'm gonna run around with a paint respirator! 😂🤣🤣 Nice work on this model!!! GO FLY!!! 🛩🛸✈
Kindly asking if you could share best practice how to get the balsa plane ready for paint. Building a WWII at the moment. It was suggested to use microballon and sand smooth, than prime paint. Problem after 2 coats of primer, i can still see balsa pores. How can i get sooth finish before final paint? Much appreciated. Very nice paint job by the way. Hope to get mine similar.
The best finish for balsa is to fiberglass it first and then primer and paint over that. It hardens and seals the wood which gives you an ideal surface to work on for paint. It takes a bit of time, but is worth it. Otherwise, The wood needs to be sealed for best success when prepping for paint, so unless you’ve sealed the wood in some way, it’ll take quite a bit of primer to seal and hide any wood grain. I’d expect the wood May warp in the process as well.
'Very nice'. What an honor to have contact with the 'Pilot' of that aircraft ! ...I've met 'Pappy' Boyington and Bob Hoover at air shows many years ago; something I won't forget...have a great week...
Thanks! That’s really cool about Boyington and Hoover.
Old couch cushions, that’s a really good idea.
WOW ! NICE job sir !
Thank you! 😊
Awesome job, I built about 10 Skyraiders in 1/48 & 1/32, it’s hard enough to weather 1/32 but at this scale is unimaginable. Thx for sharing.
Thank you! I actually find the finish work on a large model is easier than on plastics because it’s more forgiving due to the larger surface. I’m constantly blown away and inspired by the work that comes from the plastic model community.
That plane is sick great job!!
Thank you!
@@Thercgeek Your Welcome
Another great video Chris. The video doesn’t do your finished work justice. I’m glad I got to see it in person.
A classic bird with an awesome presence 🍻
Thanks so much Chuck for your kind words! It Was really great meeting you! Hopefully you’ll get to see this bird fly in person soon. 😊
Oh nice plane..a favorite for sure. You did a great job. If you take a old model your not using and practice weathered coloring you will be surprised how easy it is. I use a touch of white or light tan (added white to it) then use some eye droppers to add the color to the main and keep a log of quantities. The only drawback for you is you will have to get a larger airbrush. She came out tremendous.
.
She does look amazing!!!!
Thanks mah dude!
Nice paint jor sir.and nice plane too🙂
Thank you!
Love the Skyraider! Fantastic repaint. At first I thought, why is he repainting it in the exact same scheme? After seeing the final product, now I know! Great Job.
Thanks so much! I had to get those accurate colors on it, I couldn’t help it, haha!
Great job ,i learned alot ...ill get to try out your techniques on my Draken
This is one great looking and flying model. I am glade i got to see it fly in person. All those bombs and racks ...thank goodness for 3D printing. Well done one of your best non jet warbird.
Thanks Rodger! Yeah, that printing did simplify those weapons immensely! Could only imagine if I had to layup and build glass ones or something like that.
Always amazed by your ingenuity and detailed work. She looks fantastic 👍
Thank you! 😊
I always wondered if there was an easy way to do weathering if you don't have an airbrush
Washes are the way to go for that. Airbrushing is used to augment the washes primarily.
Very well done man, good job 🥰🥰🥰
Thanks man!
I don't own an airbrush. For accenting the panel lined with a brush, would you use a wash or go with watered down black acrylic?
I’d recommend doing to oil stain/streaking step and then if you wanted to do some sort of shading over panel lines, you might could use a softer lead pencil or some artist charcoals. Otherwise, just forgo the shading step altogether.
Thats awesome!
Thanks!
another nice video
Thanks so much!
You should do the gear and gear doors for total detail. What would suggest for a color on a Corsair 4U-1D to wearher it?
For a dark airframe, I would look at using some lighter browns and grays vs the dark browns and blacks I used here.
Thanks
Looks fantastic as usual. When you're all done do you have to re-do the CG? Plus, does it add a lot of weight? Anyway, great looking aircraft!!!!
It is always good to double check the cg after a repaint or refinish. In this case, it didn’t really change things much. Also, the weight increase was pretty negligible since there wasn’t much prep work required before applying paint.
Nicely done. I am sure you know by now that Skyraider was stationed in NKP ( Nakhon Phantom Royal Thai Air Force Base) . And if you would like to read another great book about that war read My Secret War by Richard S Drury. Again nicely done looks like the real thing.
Man Chris you have skills. You make it all look so easy. Question...how is a process like this affected when you have to go back over the covering with an iron to get out the occasional wrinkle? Absolutely a great looking warbird. Top notch.
Thanks so much! You can shrink up the material normally if it sags. If you use an iron though, use a sock on it.
How many cans of Tamiya spray paint did you use per color? I have a Carbon Z T-28 I plan on using your methods for foam planes (your F-14 videos) and then painting in the S.E.A. Camouflage. Thanks!
Honestly, I can’t remember. I feel like it was probably about 6-8 cans for the underside and then maybe 4-6 for the camo colors.
@@Thercgeek that’s about what I figured, but I’ll order heavy so I don’t run out. Thanks for getting back to me. BTW…..received your 2nd book today, “Mastering The Art Of Scale Aircraft Cockpit Detailing” today…..Excellent book!!!! Falls right in line with your first book, and your RUclips videos. Once life calms down a tad I’ll be joining your master classes and get this rolling. Thanks again!
Nice work! I like the 3D printed bomb idea and being able to put powders in them. Any chance of getting the STL files?
Thanks! Yeah, stl files can be made available, shoot me an email. I’ve been wanting to offer them for sale through my website, but haven’t had a chance to set that up yet.
Awesome job, as always! Do you know if the Tamiya TS clear coats can be used on foam? Is there a brand that works better, or safer on foam, than others? Appreciate your help. Thanks.
Thanks man! I’ve never used the ts clear coats, so can’t really say but I’d be surprised if they didn’t work. I’d recommend testing it first of course. I’ve been liking the rustoleum 2x clears lately. They work well.
Off topic but I have the dx9 black edition but looking to purchase the nx10 or ix12. Which do you recommend
Of the two, I’d probably recommend the nx10. I’ve heard reports of the ix12 having really slow boot times.
Chris. Awesome plane! Thanks. Question. Have you tried "Spray Max clear coat" on any foam planes? Just curious. thx
I’m not familiar with “spray max clear coat” so can’t say. Epo foam is extremely resilient to solvents, so if you’re spraying it on an epo airframe, I’d be surprised if it doesn’t work.
Dang bruh!!! Where do you find the time for this!?!?
Haha! It’s at the expense of other projects. 🤣
The sprayed feathering is visible. Looks like it did not blend in .
You will until it’s clear coated. It blended perfectly after the clear.
@@Thercgeek Good to hear. Looks really nice. I love the simplicity of the detail work you show.
In person it’s a work of art! The whole process comes together in the end.
It looks incredible in person, being that Chris is a two time Scale Masters champ im pretty sure he knows how to weather a model.
17:00 Wear a mask, Chris! We want to see more of your videos.
Yes sir! :) I actually have a paint respirator but the elastic is all worn out. I need to get a new one.
@@Thercgeek So as of yesterday the CDC is trying to get us to wear double up masks. I'm gonna run around with a paint respirator! 😂🤣🤣
Nice work on this model!!!
GO FLY!!! 🛩🛸✈
Haha! Walking around like Darth Vader. 🤣
Your wife needs a nice anniversary present so by selling this to me we all win!
Hahaha! We'll see... 😂
Kindly asking if you could share best practice how to get the balsa plane ready for paint. Building a WWII at the moment. It was suggested to use microballon and sand smooth, than prime paint. Problem after 2 coats of primer, i can still see balsa pores. How can i get sooth finish before final paint? Much appreciated. Very nice paint job by the way. Hope to get mine similar.
The best finish for balsa is to fiberglass it first and then primer and paint over that. It hardens and seals the wood which gives you an ideal surface to work on for paint. It takes a bit of time, but is worth it. Otherwise, The wood needs to be sealed for best success when prepping for paint, so unless you’ve sealed the wood in some way, it’ll take quite a bit of primer to seal and hide any wood grain. I’d expect the wood May warp in the process as well.