Olivia, if you need to crawl under your car, use card board from a large shipping box. You can slide around on it and it gives you a little padding. Works great.
people who want to check for brake pressure go to each line each wheel !crack the right rear ,left rear, passenger front and drivers front bleed each wheel cylinder before you do any major work to the master cylinder ! FYI 👍🏿👍🏿😎
Man I still think this car Oliva is really nice! Please don't make it a gasser! that would be tragic if you did! Take those lowering blocks out of the rear. Buy yourself a new brake booster. You also need to check your vacuum going into the brake booster on the car, it may not have enough going into it! Love you guys! Great video!
The gas line that goes inside the tank is a different kind of gas line is made to be submersible in gasoline some people just put regular gas line on there and it's not the right line ! 😲🙈🙉🙊 But it's an easy fix but before you install the fuel pump make sure it works 🤞🏿 put power to it, 12 voits😮
I rarely watch videos this long but I watched every bit of this one. Your videos are always excellent. Just the right amount of humor, knowledge, tech and some hands on wrenching, without all the fake drama. It doesn't hurt that you're very likable people. I do hope you make a video of the brake problem and fix, I feel invested. I'm saying brake booster. Thanks for putting out the excellent videos you guys do. I'm sure I'm not the only person who wants to thank you for putting quality videos
Fuel tank should have a barrier between tank, and straps so bands won't wear a hole in tank from straps. They usually use a thick felt tar looking material thats wider than the straps a little bit for anti-chaffing and use it on top of tank where it comes in contact with trunk floor pan.
The throttle Body rattle is a de-icing thing that it goes through. Hook up a scan tool and clear the codes out and you will be dialed in. Might need to do a throttle body relearn but no big deal.
I had a fuel pump that worked off of the cam. I would have started on the front , but then I seen the new tank. So i’m going to see how you do figuring it out. I enjoy all of you guys videos. My first car was a 57 Chevy 210 body . I was born in 1958. As yes took many of naps under my Chevy.
Same here. I could have bought a very nice 55 in 1979 for $500 and my parents talked me out of it too. That taught me to keep my nose out of my kids' business.
When you check the brake system, make sure the pushrod from the pedal to the brake booster, has enough travel. There should be another rod that goes through the booster and contacts the piston on the back of the master cylinder. Not sure about that spacer, looks a bit hokey. Like the booster and the master cylinder were adapted to fit each other . Even though you guys cracked open the brakelines to bleed the master, i never really saw a good volume of clean brake fluid squirt out. Also being this brake system is made up of a bunch of parts from different applications, make sure that , if you pull back on the pedal it will not pull the rod out of the booster, don't rely on the brake switch as the limiter, make a solid stop. You have a nice hoist , so do your bleeding with the wheels off the ground, then once there bled you can spin the wheels and test them . Good luck , great looking car !
Yes the clearance between the actuator rod and the main piston on the master cylinder should be minimal. It should not be tight but just a small clearance. This gives a proper stroke to actuate the brakes. Found that out the hard way back fifty years ago when I replaced the master cylinder on my 69 Chevelle (standard brakes). Could not get the system bled out as there was not enough push on the master cylinder piston due to excess clearance between the rod and the piston. If the system is power bled then that discrepancy does not show up but when you try to manual bleed the system it is a real bear. Power brake systems do not have that problem but there are different rod lengths and they should not be mixed up.
Engine maybe missing. But not hearing lifter or any disturbing noises in it. Sounds like a tune up is necessary. And of course fix the brakes. Olivia and Danny looks like you made a great choice in that 1956. Would not be worried about your decision. You guys will get it. Thanks for sharing! 💯👊👍💕
Thanks for the Video... OMG...I know the feeling. My Chevelle had been sitting for a while. I did start it and run the engine but it was on a Non-Op, so it was jus sitting in the Driveway. I needed to move it back a few feet, so I got in and started it up, put it in reverse...let the clutch out and straight out the driveway into the street...NO BRAKES...Good thing nobody was going down the street. It bounced off the curb across the street and stopped... Man was I lucky. Master Cylinder had failed....😳😳😳
It's got some bug's to work out those 5.3 engines are tough new plugs and wires will fix it that is one clean 56 underneath and you that look on your face when it fired up was priceless you look so beautiful in it ❤
Cool car. Bummer about the brakes. Wonder if there's enough manifold vacuum for the booster? Super lucky no damage to the car from the wall. 5000 pound car vs arm. Ouch!
Put the rear on jackstands to test the brakes. If you step on the pedal then start the engine the pedal should go down. If it doesn't there is a booster problem.
Ahh… the joys of backtracking someone else’s work. You guys are getting it done though, you’ll be driving it (and hopefully stopping it🙏) Real soon! You won’t won’t be able to wipe the smile off your face when you get to make your first drive. Put some electric fans on that thing and it should be a nice little cruiser.
Danny, I don't know if you realize it, but you are amazingly patient, a very good mentor. Good thing too, because if you get too lippy with a Canadian girl she can take you north of the border and abandon you in a Prairie field in a blizzard!
It's better that this happens now then when you driving down the road! I saw that you kids had a good pedal. Olivia, you are talking this quite well. You and Danny will get the 56 sorted out! Keep us in formed on the issue at hand. Remember, this could happen to anyone of us that work on our rides. Thanks for the video! And no,you are not buffoons. A fine couple, making videos, sharing them with your subscribers! Both the good and the bad. Keeps you humble..
Thanks Phillip! Appreciate your comment very much. I think a lot of people don't realize how much courage it takes to upload your mistakes for the internet to see. We are going to fix it properly and hope to have it road worthy soon.
Make sure nothings in front or in back when you fire it up again. You might want to put your helmet on too Olivia lol. Only damage I could see was to Danny's arm. Glad you guys can laugh about it. Be safe.❤
Make sure the brake booster behind the master cylinder is connected to a vacuum line on the engine. The black line attached on the left side of the booster has to be secured to a vacuum or no power and no brakes.
Power brakes strike again. Peddle feels one way with car off then when you turn it on they feel totally different. Either use a vacuum pump or bleed them while car is running. Also check rod length to make sure you have proper engagement when Liv was pumping there was a weird clicking noise that makes me thing there to much free space between rod and master.
Hey guys, what you need to know on the tri fives with that brake booster set up the clevis hole on the pedal needs to be 1 inch lower than the factory hole. This is something that all the try five guys do this will give you the correct pedal ratio.
In most cases, the master cylinder should be bench bleed 1st...than installed and all wheel cylinders than bleed. Vacuum/Auto bleeders work great for one person bleeding.
I had to mod a sender, found gates make submersible hose, might be worth it for the long haul. I personally didnt want to have to drop the tank again down the line.
This car isn't a gasser, it's a very nice cruiser, and once it's done you can drive it anywhere just like a modern car. There is no way someone daily drove this car for over a year unless they did and then tore it down. They obviously sold it to you unfinished.
Hey! You guys are off on a very good note, you got that little chevy running I see.(fantastic!) Can't wait to see that little baby rolling and stopping. Man I'm enjoying this😊 until the next time.
I am pretty sure that there were no brakes because you never put the cover back on the master cylinder. These are hydraulic and require pressure. Without the cap you are just pouring fluid everywhere once the car is running.
I would be REALLY opposed to swapping in a used master cylinder, even if it did 'work when we took it off'. BTW, you ALWAYS bench bleed these to get all the air out, especially on a vehicle where it sits at an angle like that. There's always air trapped in the front of the pistons because of the angle. Even so, I wouldn't trust it after sitting dry for any length of time. Just get a new one and be done with it. Also check the travel on the pushrod in the booster and make sure it's pushing the piston all the way in (and releasing completely when the pedal is all the way up). It if doesn't release completely, it won't uncover the holes in the reservoirs to let fresh fluid into the cylinder. (very important!). Considering what I've seen so far, I'd go through the whole brake system, and replace hoses and wheel cylinders/calipers, as needed. It's not too bad if they don't go, but when they won't stop, it's a lot worse, as you just found out!😳💀 Looking forward to more adventures with your new ride. Take care y'all!😉
I believe thats a new master cylinder is new but never bench bled. When you bleed on the vehicle should bleed through the bleeders ports on master rather than the brake line "B" nuts on the actual line. You needed to bleed that master cylinder before you install it much easier on bench to bleed air out, because you end up introducing air into the lines you end up bleeding for ever. When you ever start rolling and no brakes go for emergency brake.
Why didn't you use the bleeders that are on the master cylinder when you started? Also always start at the right rear, your rear brakes will determine the height of the pedal. Always wait a few minutes after bleeding each wheel, if there is any air it compresses and you won't feel it for a few minutes after bleeding.
My dad & I were driving my brother's truck home & we found out it didn't have good brakes either. My dad & his friend fixed it only to have my brother blow the motor. But now after many years we're fixing it up right. It's still not road worthy but it will get there. So I know( I think all car people) know your struggle. The silver lining is that it starts now. Stopping it is the issue now. You guys will get it though. Can't wait to see it on the road.
Brakes act like the caliper are reversed right side on the left left on the right, is the bleeder screw at the top . Car has a lot of potential, good luck.
I may be missing something here but you bought a car, an old car that didn’t run an in the process of getting it roadworthy, you use junk/used parts. WTH ! Being budget conscience is one thing and it has its place but being cheap on a safety issue is dumb. The up side is you were not on a public road in traffic. Think about what you are doing and who you are putting at risk. One of the first things that should have been done is verify you have a fully functional brake system...period. No BS, it should have had wheels pulled, all lines and fittings checked then each corner should have been stripped to check wheel bearings then a full check of each wheels braking mechanics. Make certain the thing will stop...end of story. Once that is done then see if the engine will run. As you saw, it doesn’t matter if you have a working engine if you can’t stop the thing. The car will be nice but because you bought it from a seller that had no idea what he/she was doing puts the entire vehicle in question. I have worked on cars for many years and have never thought about getting it on the road as you are doing. This can be a fun project on a good looking 56, not rusty and crusty. Don’t rush, take your time and enjoy the process. Have fun and mostly stay safe.
Maybe you should watch the video, the new one that was on the car first wasnt working, so they tried replacing it with an old one they had, to see if they had a bad master cylinder.
This master cylinder swap is a prime example of cheap. Brakes dont work so you start at the beginning. The cost of a new master cylinder is the price plus time to pick it up at parts store. Cars especially older cars are mechanically simple. Start at the primary end of any system and work toward the other end. This is supposed to be a speed shop which also inferes the shop can make the car stop as well. Parts in all stages can fail. The idea is to limit that possibllity. When rolling backward as shown in the video, the car should have been shifted into a forward gear to reverse the momentum. The point being they had a suspected bad part on the car and instead of buying a new part, a used part was installed. It takes about the same length of time for either install so was the plan to use the old master cylinder or change it after testing ? If that was the intent then you doubled the installation time to save a few dollars which would get spent anyway. If you are a seasonal farmer in remote Iowa or someplace like that where stores are miles and miles away and the car can be tested on your own farm property, maybe one can make a case for working cheap. The actions shown on the video can not be justified. No one was seriously hurt so maybe think about how things could be different today had Danny gotten pinched between the wall and car. Think about another driver driving bejind Olivia then not having brakes. All bad possibilities to save a few dollars on a part. This is a youtube channel. Try not to injure or kill yourselves or others. Stay safe.
Start the car up and bleed All four wheel cylinders again while the car is running. Guaranteed your break's will work perfectly. Thay are power Break's and this must be done. I started spinning wrenches at the age of 5 I know what I'm talking about. Wouldn't say do it if I wasn't sure.so give it a shot.and good luck 🤞🍀.
NEVER JUST USE FUEL INLECTOR FUEL LINE OR FUEL LINE ALOT OF GUYS DONT KNOW THIS BUT THERE IS A FUEL PUMP HOSE THAT IS MADE FOR THIS TO BE EMERSED IN FUEL ALL THE TIME SPECIAL HOSE ,REGULAR FUEL HOSES WILL CRACK MELT AND FAIL, SO CHECK IT OUT
Keep up the great work. Yall are some awesome people and couple. I just love yalls channel. Yall are a trip and funny as hell sometimes. Lmao. Anyways keep up the great content. And much love to you guys from Maryland❤❤❤.
The same thing happend to me with my 65 impala it scared the life out of me kids were walking home from school down the street and same thing breaks were working then NOT and she rolled back I could of hurt those kids think God I didn't. I'm happy yall are ok and her car is OK my daughter is 13 and she loves yall now she wants a 56 bless her heart
I love the fact that you two genuinely use words like “dang” and “darn” to keep things G-Rated for the channel, but when a classic is headed for a wall, bumper first, the adrenaline hits and it’s “ how fucked up is my bumper?!?!”
Put the cone filter on the front of the throttle body. Use a pusher electric fan. I'm thinking you have a push-rod length issue going into the brake booster.
To be more specific, the rod between the brake pedal and the booster is most likely 3/16" too long. I'd recommend getting an adjustable rod, and set it about 3/16" of a inch shorter than the rod you take out. I had the exact same problem on a Ford truck, and that's how I fixed it.
Brake hoses can go bad and then not build any pressure too. Maybe this master cylinder is bad also? Will be fun to see what you find out when you take the wheels off.
Oh my, after reading the comments!! People think they know what the problem is and everything y'all are doing is not right. Lol I was a mechanic for many years and I seen nothing wrong with what y'all were doing. Trolls online! Y'all just keep on doing what ya doing. Love ya channel! Y'all are awesome!
![Clave Especial x Fuerza Regida - No Pasa Nada [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3u2jaju71IQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Olivia, if you need to crawl under your car, use card board from a large shipping box. You can slide around on it and it gives you a little padding. Works great.
nice mansplaining!
people who want to check for brake pressure go to each line each wheel !crack the right rear ,left rear, passenger front and drivers front bleed each wheel cylinder before you do any major work to the master cylinder ! FYI 👍🏿👍🏿😎
I would have bench bled the swapped master cylinder first. Then bleed the farthest wheel and work my way forward. Keep at it.
Man I still think this car Oliva is really nice! Please don't make it a gasser! that would be tragic if you did! Take those lowering blocks out of the rear. Buy yourself a new brake booster. You also need to check your vacuum going into the brake booster on the car, it may not have enough going into it! Love you guys! Great video!
I know eh, not a Gasser, it's too Classy a car. Only two-tone the paint and get a larger tire diameter.
The gas line that goes inside the tank is a different kind of gas line is made to be submersible in gasoline some people just put regular gas line on there and it's not the right line ! 😲🙈🙉🙊 But it's an easy fix but before you install the fuel pump make sure it works 🤞🏿 put power to it, 12 voits😮
This one is night and day compared to your old one! This one is so much cleaner, which is one good place to start!
Your not looking at the big picture here " she could have been hurt bad" it seems that when it comes to her cars boyfriend is using old or used parts"
Dumb
I rarely watch videos this long but I watched every bit of this one. Your videos are always excellent. Just the right amount of humor, knowledge, tech and some hands on wrenching, without all the fake drama. It doesn't hurt that you're very likable people.
I do hope you make a video of the brake problem and fix, I feel invested. I'm saying brake booster.
Thanks for putting out the excellent videos you guys do.
I'm sure I'm not the only person who wants to thank you for putting quality videos
Thank you so much for watching!
There is a special submersible fuel pump hose for in tank fuel pumps. Regular fuel hose will deteriorate quickly when submerged in fuel. 🇨🇦👋
Fuel tank should have a barrier between tank, and straps so bands won't wear a hole in tank from straps. They usually use a thick felt tar looking material thats wider than the straps a little bit for anti-chaffing and use it on top of tank where it comes in contact with trunk floor pan.
You came up with a great name for the car!!! Suspicious!!!!!!!!!
I also like "Suspicion" as another name.
So glad that was kinda click bait. Love you guys
The throttle Body rattle is a de-icing thing that it goes through. Hook up a scan tool and clear the codes out and you will be dialed in. Might need to do a throttle body relearn but no big deal.
And guaranteed once you replace those wires it’ll be 100%. Been through that on many swaps before.
You're right on the throttle body! Had a friend clear the codes and it stopped doing that. 👍
I had a fuel pump that worked off of the cam. I would have started on the front , but then I seen the new tank. So i’m going to see how you do figuring it out. I enjoy all of you guys videos. My first car was a 57 Chevy 210 body . I was born in 1958. As yes took many of naps under my Chevy.
Also you can check the pin connections going to the coil pack make sure they're not bent😮😮
Love the car. When I was a kid I could of bought one used off a car lot for 500$. My father talked me out of it, that was in the 70s. Damm I’m old.
Same here. I could have bought a very nice 55 in 1979 for $500 and my parents talked me out of it too. That taught me to keep my nose out of my kids' business.
The struggles are real. Don't give up on it!! Team Work makes the Dream Work!! You two are awesome and Thanks for sharing..
When you check the brake system, make sure the pushrod from the pedal to the brake booster, has enough travel. There should be another rod that goes through the booster and contacts the piston on the back of the master cylinder. Not sure about that spacer, looks a bit hokey. Like the booster and the master cylinder were adapted to fit each other . Even though you guys cracked open the brakelines to bleed the master, i never really saw a good volume of clean brake fluid squirt out. Also being this brake system is made up of a bunch of parts from different applications, make sure that , if you pull back on the pedal it will not pull the rod out of the booster, don't rely on the brake switch as the limiter, make a solid stop. You have a nice hoist , so do your bleeding with the wheels off the ground, then once there bled you can spin the wheels and test them . Good luck , great looking car !
Yes the clearance between the actuator rod and the main piston on the master cylinder should be minimal. It should not be tight but just a small clearance. This gives a proper stroke to actuate the brakes. Found that out the hard way back fifty years ago when I replaced the master cylinder on my 69 Chevelle (standard brakes). Could not get the system bled out as there was not enough push on the master cylinder piston due to excess clearance between the rod and the piston. If the system is power bled then that discrepancy does not show up but when you try to manual bleed the system it is a real bear. Power brake systems do not have that problem but there are different rod lengths and they should not be mixed up.
Engine maybe missing. But not hearing lifter or any disturbing noises in it. Sounds like a tune up is necessary. And of course fix the brakes. Olivia and Danny looks like you made a great choice in that 1956. Would not be worried about your decision. You guys will get it. Thanks for sharing! 💯👊👍💕
Hey you guys are honest and awesome,with your videos..im up here in the great white north Saskatchewan..love the content
Thanks for the Video... OMG...I know the feeling. My Chevelle had been sitting for a while. I did start it and run the engine but it was on a Non-Op, so it was jus sitting in the Driveway. I needed to move it back a few feet, so I got in and started it up, put it in reverse...let the clutch out and straight out the driveway into the street...NO BRAKES...Good thing nobody was going down the street. It bounced off the curb across the street and stopped... Man was I lucky. Master Cylinder had failed....😳😳😳
Most gear heads always check the brakes especially when car was sitting for awhile "!
It's got some bug's to work out those 5.3 engines are tough new plugs and wires will fix it that is one clean 56 underneath and you that look on your face when it fired up was priceless you look so beautiful in it ❤
Master clylinder cap was off
Oh dude when the camera went dark I thought something bad had happened glad you guys are safe
Cool car. Bummer about the brakes. Wonder if there's enough manifold vacuum for the booster? Super lucky no damage to the car from the wall. 5000 pound car vs arm. Ouch!
Put the rear on jackstands to test the brakes. If you step on the pedal then start the engine the pedal should go down. If it doesn't there is a booster problem.
My Taylor wires are 80 ohms per foot. You want low resistance.
50:23 you have 2 bleeders on that master cyl. Bleed them.
This is great stuff! Reminds me of the early days of the Big Wave. It's real and I like it. The car is messing with you:)
Ahh… the joys of backtracking someone else’s work. You guys are getting it done though, you’ll be driving it (and hopefully stopping it🙏)
Real soon! You won’t won’t be able to wipe the smile off your face when you get to make your first drive. Put some electric fans on that thing and it should be a nice little cruiser.
Glad you all didn't get hurt and Danny get in there and fix it for your baby girl❤❤
Danny, I don't know if you realize it, but you are amazingly patient, a very good mentor.
Good thing too, because if you get too lippy with a Canadian girl she can take you north of the border and abandon you in a Prairie field in a blizzard!
It's better that this happens now then when you driving down the road!
I saw that you kids had a good pedal.
Olivia, you are talking this quite well. You and Danny will get the 56 sorted out! Keep us in formed on the issue at hand.
Remember, this could happen to anyone of us that work on our rides.
Thanks for the video! And no,you are not buffoons.
A fine couple, making videos, sharing them with your subscribers! Both the good and the bad.
Keeps you humble..
Thanks Phillip! Appreciate your comment very much. I think a lot of people don't realize how much courage it takes to upload your mistakes for the internet to see. We are going to fix it properly and hope to have it road worthy soon.
I think “Suspicious” sounds like a good name for this car!
Make sure nothings in front or in back when you fire it up again. You might want to put your helmet on too Olivia lol. Only damage I could see was to Danny's arm. Glad you guys can laugh about it. Be safe.❤
Make sure the brake booster behind the master cylinder is connected to a vacuum line on the engine. The black line attached on the left side of the booster has to be secured to a vacuum or no power and no brakes.
70 years of Gremlins. A gorgeous car though. You guys got this. See you in 45 Days!
Power brakes strike again. Peddle feels one way with car off then when you turn it on they feel totally different. Either use a vacuum pump or bleed them while car is running. Also check rod length to make sure you have proper engagement when Liv was pumping there was a weird clicking noise that makes me thing there to much free space between rod and master.
Mad respect for you guys. You let us see when things go off the rails. Keep grinding ❤
Thanks! It's not easy to put ourselves out there and show mistakes but this is the reality
@GnarlySpeedShop Hey nothing goes perfect all the time. That 56 is sharp. Can't wait to see yall rolling down the PCH in it
She excited to drive it need to take their time check everything before driving it especially if it has no breaks
Hi Olivia trust your own work and take nothing for granted. Have a nice day. Tom up in Canada in the Maritimes at the NB-NS border
awesome and outstanding as always.thanks for sharing and taking us along.
Hey guys, what you need to know on the tri fives with that brake booster set up the clevis hole on the pedal needs to be 1 inch lower than the factory hole. This is something that all the try five guys do this will give you the correct pedal ratio.
My first real car was 56, bought sight unseen, ran decent and then blew the rear end 50 miles later. Loved that car and had it over 40 yrs
Man ! You guys know your stuff ‼️
In most cases, the master cylinder should be bench bleed 1st...than installed and all wheel cylinders than bleed. Vacuum/Auto bleeders work great for one person bleeding.
I had to mod a sender, found gates make submersible hose, might be worth it for the long haul. I personally didnt want to have to drop the tank again down the line.
Booster vac tube may not have vac off the manifold.
My thoughts as well check vacuum to booster
This car isn't a gasser, it's a very nice cruiser, and once it's done you can drive it anywhere just like a modern car. There is no way someone daily drove this car for over a year unless they did and then tore it down. They obviously sold it to you unfinished.
Liv, It is a Really NICE Ride ! It will all work out . Think " No ABS " . Your Brake issues are Easy.. Good Luck !
Hey! You guys are off on a very good note, you got that little chevy running I see.(fantastic!) Can't wait to see that little baby rolling and stopping. Man I'm enjoying this😊 until the next time.
Love y'all!! Y'all so cool! Darn wall was in the way. Glad not a bad impact.
Olivia you are brave to get under the car to inspect what has to be done.🙏 I'd be too scared ❗️
You answered your own question It aint the car its the mechanics. Been there done that.
Not a failure in my books. Most important no one was hurt. All in time guys!
I am pretty sure that there were no brakes because you never put the cover back on the master cylinder. These are hydraulic and require pressure. Without the cap you are just pouring fluid everywhere once the car is running.
Good channel fun to watch you two learn and get experience.
Probably you guys already thought about it but if it does start running on hot side get a shroud for that radiator or make one.
I'm thinking the brake pedal pushrod is too short. Probably the stock non power pushrod. So you only have a little pressure
Old trick, Start it up in the complete darkness and look closely for any spark (arc) jumping around, That will be a bad boot, (wire)
I would be REALLY opposed to swapping in a used master cylinder, even if it did 'work when we took it off'. BTW, you ALWAYS bench bleed these to get all the air out, especially on a vehicle where it sits at an angle like that. There's always air trapped in the front of the pistons because of the angle. Even so, I wouldn't trust it after sitting dry for any length of time. Just get a new one and be done with it. Also check the travel on the pushrod in the booster and make sure it's pushing the piston all the way in (and releasing completely when the pedal is all the way up). It if doesn't release completely, it won't uncover the holes in the reservoirs to let fresh fluid into the cylinder. (very important!). Considering what I've seen so far, I'd go through the whole brake system, and replace hoses and wheel cylinders/calipers, as needed. It's not too bad if they don't go, but when they won't stop, it's a lot worse, as you just found out!😳💀 Looking forward to more adventures with your new ride. Take care y'all!😉
I can’t wait to see it on the road - good luck the 56 looks sweet.
I believe thats a new master cylinder is new but never bench bled. When you bleed on the vehicle should bleed through the bleeders ports on master rather than the brake line "B" nuts on the actual line. You needed to bleed that master cylinder before you install it much easier on bench to bleed air out, because you end up introducing air into the lines you end up bleeding for ever. When you ever start rolling and no brakes go for emergency brake.
Why didn't you use the bleeders that are on the master cylinder when you started? Also always start at the right rear, your rear brakes will determine the height of the pedal. Always wait a few minutes after bleeding each wheel, if there is any air it compresses and you won't feel it for a few minutes after bleeding.
I would look at the brake push rod length
My dad & I were driving my brother's truck home & we found out it didn't have good brakes either. My dad & his friend fixed it only to have my brother blow the motor. But now after many years we're fixing it up right. It's still not road worthy but it will get there. So I know( I think all car people) know your struggle. The silver lining is that it starts now. Stopping it is the issue now. You guys will get it though. Can't wait to see it on the road.
I love the comment..."Have you ever gotten under the car, and not want to work?" Hahaha That happens to me quite often. 😅
Well, the trans works! (at least in reverse...)
Hahah
Brakes act like the caliper are reversed right side on the left left on the right, is the bleeder screw at the top .
Car has a lot of potential, good luck.
Maybe they didn’t bench bleed the master right when they installed it
Wow, the underneath of the car is super clean looking for a 1956 car today.
That car is in great shape just like Olivia 😊😊
I may be missing something here but you bought a car, an old car that didn’t run an in the process of getting it roadworthy, you use junk/used parts. WTH ! Being budget conscience is one thing and it has its place but being cheap on a safety issue is dumb. The up side is you were not on a public road in traffic. Think about what you are doing and who you are putting at risk. One of the first things that should have been done is verify you have a fully functional brake system...period. No BS, it should have had wheels pulled, all lines and fittings checked then each corner should have been stripped to check wheel bearings then a full check of each wheels braking mechanics. Make certain the thing will stop...end of story. Once that is done then see if the engine will run. As you saw, it doesn’t matter if you have a working engine if you can’t stop the thing. The car will be nice but because you bought it from a seller that had no idea what he/she was doing puts the entire vehicle in question. I have worked on cars for many years and have never thought about getting it on the road as you are doing. This can be a fun project on a good looking 56, not rusty and crusty. Don’t rush, take your time and enjoy the process. Have fun and mostly stay safe.
Maybe you should watch the video, the new one that was on the car first wasnt working, so they tried replacing it with an old one they had, to see if they had a bad master cylinder.
Thanks for the lecture
This master cylinder swap is a prime example of cheap. Brakes dont work so you start at the beginning. The cost of a new master cylinder is the price plus time to pick it up at parts store. Cars especially older cars are mechanically simple. Start at the primary end of any system and work toward the other end. This is supposed to be a speed shop which also inferes the shop can make the car stop as well. Parts in all stages can fail. The idea is to limit that possibllity. When rolling backward as shown in the video, the car should have been shifted into a forward gear to reverse the momentum. The point being they had a suspected bad part on the car and instead of buying a new part, a used part was installed. It takes about the same length of time for either install so was the plan to use the old master cylinder or change it after testing ? If that was the intent then you doubled the installation time to save a few dollars which would get spent anyway. If you are a seasonal farmer in remote Iowa or someplace like that where stores are miles and miles away and the car can be tested on your own farm property, maybe one can make a case for working cheap. The actions shown on the video can not be justified. No one was seriously hurt so maybe think about how things could be different today had Danny gotten pinched between the wall and car. Think about another driver driving bejind Olivia then not having brakes. All bad possibilities to save a few dollars on a part. This is a youtube channel. Try not to injure or kill yourselves or others. Stay safe.
She's a airhead
Arm chair quarterback.
Liv did a great job with the gas jug. Kudos to a strong women!
I did the same when I was young on my 55 Chevy, but I actually ended up denting my the hood. Live & learn, I say🤦♂️
BUT SOME TIMES YOU DIE TRYING TO LEARN ,SAFETY FIRST STOP THINK WHAT YOUR DOING WHAT CAN HAPPEN
You Got Little Billy's First "Dream Build"......Trust Nothing....Anything Can Be Messed Up.!!!
Beautiful" be careful" him "putting you in harm's way"! i would question his judgment from now on"! Car can be replaced you can't be beautiful "!
I’m definitely a Ford guy but I must say the Tri 5 Chevys are dope. The iconic hot rod.
Take the car off of the ground for a brake check, And get the rear end/brakes higher up in the rear, That will make the air rise up to be bleed out.
Danny 😂 hotdog down a hallway!!😂🍻🤙
Hung up with your man there with you that’s one lucky dude 😂😂😂❤
You guys are the best everything you do
But he has shifty. Comments at times. Other than that I will always follow. You rock girl. 👍
Start the car up and bleed All four wheel cylinders again while the car is running. Guaranteed your break's will work perfectly. Thay are power Break's and this must be done. I started spinning wrenches at the age of 5 I know what I'm talking about. Wouldn't say do it if I wasn't sure.so give it a shot.and good luck 🤞🍀.
No shame there,you know the drill,on to the next problem.😊
It might need the 4 inch one probably has the short 2 5/8 one in it. the rod goes between The master cylinder and the brake booster.
Bench bleed the master cylinder before you install. you can still bleed the master on the car
"U" wrench? That would be an open-end wrench... 🙂
NEVER JUST USE FUEL INLECTOR FUEL LINE OR FUEL LINE ALOT OF GUYS DONT KNOW THIS BUT THERE IS A FUEL PUMP HOSE THAT IS MADE FOR THIS TO BE EMERSED IN FUEL ALL THE TIME SPECIAL HOSE ,REGULAR FUEL HOSES WILL CRACK MELT AND FAIL, SO CHECK IT OUT
Thats a super clean car. We don't have em in Michigan like that.
Keep up the great work. Yall are some awesome people and couple. I just love yalls channel. Yall are a trip and funny as hell sometimes. Lmao. Anyways keep up the great content. And much love to you guys from Maryland❤❤❤.
Thanks so much
The same thing happend to me with my 65 impala it scared the life out of me kids were walking home from school down the street and same thing breaks were working then NOT and she rolled back I could of hurt those kids think God I didn't. I'm happy yall are ok and her car is OK my daughter is 13 and she loves yall now she wants a 56 bless her heart
I love the fact that you two genuinely use words like “dang” and “darn” to keep things G-Rated for the channel, but when a classic is headed for a wall, bumper first, the adrenaline hits and it’s “ how fucked up is my bumper?!?!”
We try our best but that was just my genuine reaction in that moment 😅
@@GnarlySpeedShop That would be mine as well!! Best wishes, guys.
Hey don’t you guys know any old school guys!
You were Very Lucky you got it home that foolish day you got the car! I’ve driven all the roads
You check the flex brake lines to the calipers? If they are old, they could expand
Put the cone filter on the front of the throttle body. Use a pusher electric fan. I'm thinking you have a push-rod length issue going into the brake booster.
I'm just so glad you didn't buy a lemon. Very nice choice. 👌 Gonna be cruising soon.
That car looks new from underneath
Taylor pro wire 135 degree ends. They are the shortest end available and the only wires that fit my generic shorty headers. Just a tip.
Looks like a 16-gallon tank...
To be more specific, the rod between the brake pedal and the booster is most likely 3/16" too long. I'd recommend getting an adjustable rod, and set it about 3/16" of a inch shorter than the rod you take out. I had the exact same problem on a Ford truck, and that's how I fixed it.
Check your rear brake adjustment too
Brake hoses can go bad and then not build any pressure too. Maybe this master cylinder is bad also? Will be fun to see what you find out when you take the wheels off.
Oh my, after reading the comments!! People think they know what the problem is and everything y'all are doing is not right. Lol I was a mechanic for many years and I seen nothing wrong with what y'all were doing. Trolls online! Y'all just keep on doing what ya doing. Love ya channel! Y'all are awesome!