I ditched the stock valve heads and heater boxes (will overheat big valve with heat) and for a gas heater. Well worth it. They make 1.5” heater boxes too. Nice video. Working on a 2332 now for mine. Was a 2275
That's a mighty nice ride. My '72 has a new motor, but is otherwise Factory. I don't think it will ever become a Baja, but I like what you have done with yours.
Those cases can be saved using an insert made from a piston ring in conjunction with an O.S thrust bearing. Old engine builder's trick. Original cases are getting rarer and more expensive!
Cludes buggies ( CB performance ) in Farmersville Ca is the place to go for all thing Vdub , their engine builder there is a frieking Wizard , I think his name is Pat Haynes if I remember correctly , 5 years ago or so he pulled 250hp out of a naturally aspirated type 1 😁 and they have ANYTHING you could need , want or dream about for aircooled Vdubs and watercooled Vdubs too . What size are those Empi carbs ? They look like about 34's ? I was running baby Webers ( 34's ) on my 1641cc type 1 baja . Just asking because you're running a 2110cc , and I've seen dudes with 2110cc out here running 40's-48's . Cool video and nice baja 👍 , makes me miss mine 😔
@@gregbryant6639 Have you looked on line for people selling used ones , you can also find DeLortos too and you can still get the parts to rebuild them . What kind of heads are you running ? And did you have them fly cut to bump up your compression ? I was running AA brand big valve heads 40 x 35.5 and I had them fly cut 40,000ths and man what a frieking difference it made . With the extra compression I could cruise up hills that before I had to downshift and floor it to go up , and my fuel mileage got better too 👍
@@gd6349 Now I'm running a set of Weber 44 IDFs with port matched intakes breathing into a set of CB performance panchito heads valve sizes are 40X35.5mm. The spacers below my jugs are .020 with a copper headgasket compressed thickness of .020 as well. My calculated compression ratio is 9.2:1. For sure more compression makes power.
@@gregbryant6639 Ooh I bet it runs alot better now!!!! All I know is that after putting the AA 87 pistons and barrels , big valve heads and CB Performance fly cut them 40 thousandths and then put tin the lightened flywheel and my dual Weber ict 34's , my car ran Soooooo Much Better!!!! Better fuel mileage from more torque and horsepower from not having my foot to the floor when it was a stock 1600 , going up hills like easy peasy !! Man I'd like to ride in your 2180!!!! Yee Haw!!!
Dont put the fuel filter there!! Dont put it close to the engine thats the reason why vw bug catches on fire, you have to put it almos at the distance between the door and the back tire.
You can't put it by the back door. The factory fuel line is hard lined into the frame and comes out kf the split where the transfer case is. The best thing to do is check your fuel line clamps periodically and carry a fire extinguisher. The real reason they catch on fire is neglect and on a factory carburetor the brass bung is known to fall out once they get some wear on them.
Best place is where the fuel line exits the tunnel right next to the trans. Cheap filters leak and you don't want that anywhere near the engine. Next to the #3 exhaust is a fire waiting to happen.
@@jerrykeck1494 I disagree, the purpose of the doghouse style shroud was to correct the issue of air flow to the #3 cylinder and exhaust the air from the oil cooler to the outside of the fan shroud. That design correction from VW was specifically to address the issue of even cooling.
Yes I do. I reset the valve lash every time I change the oil. That's a VW thing. With a solid lift cam it's very important to always make sure the valve lash is not too tight, as that will result in power loss, a burned valve, or possibly even cam failure. Too much valve lash will result in unpleasant noises and power loss or valve float.
@@adamUDavies oh ok, I got you. Yea, that’s the issue with current mics. One is on the back of the camera, the other is on the front. If you are not directly behind it or in front of it, it gets a little muffled. We’ll try to do better on that.
EMPI "They're the way to go for VDub stuff" 🤣🤣 That was funny! EMPI makes some of shittiest parts for air-cooled. I avoid EMPI anytime it is possible. Its best to stick with German parts when possible. EMPI is always my last choice. I have had nothing but problems with their stuff.
Empi stuff has always been good to me. They have been around for years and there's a reason they have been. The case is built by autolinea a Brazilian company that empi branded their name on the case. Nobody sells an aftermarket case that is CNC machined, reinforced behind the #3 cylinder, a made from aluminum alloy instead of magnesium like the stock case. Say what you want, but this engine has been together for 5k miles and has been GREAT to me. As have all of the empi parts
Awsome . . .sounds good 👍
I ditched the stock valve heads and heater boxes (will overheat big valve with heat) and for a gas heater. Well worth it. They make 1.5” heater boxes too.
Nice video. Working on a 2332 now for mine. Was a 2275
That exhaust is awesome 👌
That's a mighty nice ride. My '72 has a new motor, but is otherwise Factory. I don't think it will ever become a Baja, but I like what you have done with yours.
My Baja bug has a 2275 with a single carb set up , almost done with it. Steering issues to hash out.
It pulls the front tires up.
Heck yea man, that sounds killer! I would absolutely love to see that.
I'd love to see that! I've got a 74 Super and, as it's pretty much stock, really want max power within reason.
Those cases can be saved using an insert made from a piston ring in conjunction with an O.S thrust bearing. Old engine builder's trick. Original cases are getting rarer and more expensive!
Interesting, thanks for the tip.
Cludes buggies ( CB performance ) in Farmersville Ca is the place to go for all thing Vdub , their engine builder there is a frieking Wizard , I think his name is Pat Haynes if I remember correctly , 5 years ago or so he pulled 250hp out of a naturally aspirated type 1 😁 and they have ANYTHING you could need , want or dream about for aircooled Vdubs and watercooled Vdubs too . What size are those Empi carbs ? They look like about 34's ? I was running baby Webers ( 34's ) on my 1641cc type 1 baja . Just asking because you're running a 2110cc , and I've seen dudes with 2110cc out here running 40's-48's . Cool video and nice baja 👍 , makes me miss mine 😔
Yes they are empis 34s it needs a set of 48s. Im currently saving up to buy a good set of webers.
@@gregbryant6639 Have you looked on line for people selling used ones , you can also find DeLortos too and you can still get the parts to rebuild them . What kind of heads are you running ? And did you have them fly cut to bump up your compression ? I was running AA brand big valve heads 40 x 35.5 and I had them fly cut 40,000ths and man what a frieking difference it made . With the extra compression I could cruise up hills that before I had to downshift and floor it to go up , and my fuel mileage got better too 👍
@@gd6349 Now I'm running a set of Weber 44 IDFs with port matched intakes breathing into a set of CB performance panchito heads valve sizes are 40X35.5mm. The spacers below my jugs are .020 with a copper headgasket compressed thickness of .020 as well. My calculated compression ratio is 9.2:1. For sure more compression makes power.
@@gregbryant6639 Ooh I bet it runs alot better now!!!! All I know is that after putting the AA 87 pistons and barrels , big valve heads and CB Performance fly cut them 40 thousandths and then put tin the lightened flywheel and my dual Weber ict 34's , my car ran Soooooo Much Better!!!! Better fuel mileage from more torque and horsepower from not having my foot to the floor when it was a stock 1600 , going up hills like easy peasy !! Man I'd like to ride in your 2180!!!! Yee Haw!!!
Wow Amazing video
I love this channel ❤❤❤❤
Thank you!
Awesome 👏
Nice my friend have a look my baja front Brazil.
Dont put the fuel filter there!! Dont put it close to the engine thats the reason why vw bug catches on fire, you have to put it almos at the distance between the door and the back tire.
You can't put it by the back door. The factory fuel line is hard lined into the frame and comes out kf the split where the transfer case is. The best thing to do is check your fuel line clamps periodically and carry a fire extinguisher. The real reason they catch on fire is neglect and on a factory carburetor the brass bung is known to fall out once they get some wear on them.
Best place is where the fuel line exits the tunnel right next to the trans. Cheap filters leak and you don't want that anywhere near the engine. Next to the #3 exhaust is a fire waiting to happen.
How did you get your tires on? Did you change anything on the suspension ?
The fenders are cut and the springs in the torsion have been twisted to lift the car. It also has a body lift.
With any performance VW you should move the oil cooler, go with larger aftermarket change the tins original blocks airflow to#3 cylinder
He is using a "dog house" fan shroud that offsets the oil cooler, which does NOT block air flow to cylinder #3.
@@daletec1 having the oil cooler anywhere inside the shroud is not going to cool the motor evenly
@@daletec1 And it's not as big as aftermarket
@@jerrykeck1494 I disagree, the purpose of the doghouse style shroud was to correct the issue of air flow to the #3 cylinder and exhaust the air from the oil cooler to the outside of the fan shroud. That design correction from VW was specifically to address the issue of even cooling.
@@jerrykeck1494 Of course on high performance applications an external oil cooler should be added.
I have the same carburetors and those linkage suck does anybody know what linkage will fit those carburetors that's better
i'm surprised that it idled well with two barrel carbs with the cam used in that motor
It's all in the tuning. One of the best VW tools in my box is the vacuum gauge to synchronize the carbs.
What was the cost for the engine build?
As of right now my tally for this engine build is around $4,000. That is only parts. I've done all of the labor myself.
Do you still have to adjust the valves every three months?
Yes I do. I reset the valve lash every time I change the oil. That's a VW thing. With a solid lift cam it's very important to always make sure the valve lash is not too tight, as that will result in power loss, a burned valve, or possibly even cam failure. Too much valve lash will result in unpleasant noises and power loss or valve float.
Did he just say Empi is as good as you can get? 😂
Cool Baja bug , but you really need to work on the audio tho.
What’s up with the audio?
Very hard to hear the other guy talking. One's loud one's quiet
@@adamUDavies oh ok, I got you. Yea, that’s the issue with current mics. One is on the back of the camera, the other is on the front. If you are not directly behind it or in front of it, it gets a little muffled. We’ll try to do better on that.
@@adamUDavies worlds better than most youtube automotive journalists
Can anyone help me I have a Baja bug but it need a engine and I live where one work on bugs
What are the shocks
Bilstein
The transmission mounts are junk.
EMPI "They're the way to go for VDub stuff" 🤣🤣 That was funny! EMPI makes some of shittiest parts for air-cooled. I avoid EMPI anytime it is possible. Its best to stick with German parts when possible. EMPI is always my last choice. I have had nothing but problems with their stuff.
Empi stuff has always been good to me. They have been around for years and there's a reason they have been. The case is built by autolinea a Brazilian company that empi branded their name on the case. Nobody sells an aftermarket case that is CNC machined, reinforced behind the #3 cylinder, a made from aluminum alloy instead of magnesium like the stock case. Say what you want, but this engine has been together for 5k miles and has been GREAT to me. As have all of the empi parts
@@gregbryant6639 ya ever want to sell it? Beautiful bug.