After many years of building and repairing fences I would suggest that only semi transparent stains, water or oil based, be used after moisture levels are acceptable and most certainly on fence posts and boards that are new. "Solid" tint anything, traps moisture behind the thick pigment when it cracks from the heat of the sun. Then rot starts and damages the fence in a big way shorten it's life dramatically. Re stain every three to four years depending on the wear and tear or look and you should get 15 to 20 years out of that deck or fence.
I live in Wisconsin, and I have given up on painting pressure treated lumber. I primed and painted for many years, but it always ended up peeling and flaking off. I had to do touch up every year or two. Now I use untreated wood with a primer and the finish paint, and it holds up well to our seasons here.
Since discovering boiled linseed oil, I'll never paint or stain outdoor wood ever again. For some items I'll even use used motor oil. All paints and modern stains allow moisture in, but it won't let dry out, that's why it's peeling on you. Not to mention even the pressure traded wood will rot being constantly wet.
A contractor friend of mine told me not to paint or stain for 2-3 years. Then after a few sunny days do either one. I’ve followed his advice used Thomson’s water seal stain and it works well.
I built some raised beds and the “air dried” pressure-treated wood was sopping wet. A few months in the Texas sun and it was dry enough to paint. Of course, the fast drying of intense summer heat led to some warping and twisting, but it still worked. Kiln dried would’ve been better, but also more expensive. Thanks for the video!
You can't go wrong with a high-quality oil-based primer that's rated for exterior application. However, Jerry has found one latex primer that meets his exterior demands, which is a product by Mad Dog called "Dura-Prime." Good luck.
Hyde! Please bring back the early style handle on your putty knives. The new wider butt handle is useless to me. Buying old used stiff back single bevel knives when I can find them
Thanks for sharing your feedback. Love your passion. Have you tried our hardwood-handled knives by any chance? They have a small but loyal following. (Including our friend Jerry in the video above. He loves his hardwood handle multi-tool.) hydetools.com/products/hardwood-handle-carbon-steel-putty-knives
@@HydeTools You can’t hit the wood handles with a hammer! The new wide flared handle on an 1 1/4” stiff back single bevel knife won’t go in a corner to dig out glue squeeze out etc. I used to carry 2 of said knives one dull with no burrs for shaving off stickers and one really sharp that could even serve as a wood chisel. One day I got excited because I saw availability of a five in one with the “classic” handle. The old handle was produced for 3-4 decades. The new handle is not an improvement. My favorite knife has a diamond logo on the blade with Hyde Tools Southbridge Ma. Hydex Steel. Saw your facility on Rt. 198 coming into town one day.
Thank you for this nice info. I have maintenance free deck which I believe the floor and stairs are made on plastic or composite wood which does not require painting. However the deck posts and under the deck is wood. Shall i seal the posts and under the deck or not? some ppl says that this would not be a good idea because it would trap moisture in the wood. what do you recommend? shall i paint it or not. thanks
If your posts and structural components are pressure-treated lumber, there is no need to seal with paint or solid stain. However, if you're aiming to make your PT last as long as possible, there's no harm in applying water-repellent treatments (such as Thompson's Water Seal) and using a cleaning agent to remove any mildew that may be forming.
Never paint pressure treated. Even after the moisture is mostly gone the chemicals will want to leach. Paint will always peel off of pressure treated. Even primed. Opaque Stains are just as bad. They seal the wood and it cracks quicker. Only use thin oil based stain, teak oil or nothing at all.
What is the best white paint to use on railing? I’ve failed a couple times already over the past few years. Possibly because I didn’t let the wood dry after power washing and lack of research and what not. Thanks
100 different painters will give you 100 different answers about the best paint to use. It's a matter of preference, but for the most part "you get you pay for" applies. A local paint store (like Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams) will be able to make recommendations based on your project. But as you mentioned, making sure the wood is sufficiently dry and prepped is key -- any paint, no matter how expensive it is, will fail if the underlying surface is wet, dirty, greasy, etc.
My friend wants to stain his fence a solid white. Will the pine knots bleed through or should I prime pine knots with oil primer before staining? Thanks for the video.
The knots will likely bleed through, yes. Your friend can certainly prime the knots first with an oil-based primer, but it's possible that the primer, too, will be visible through the white stain. Try testing it on an inconspicuous spot first. Good luck!
Before painting my deck i scrubbed the pitch off of the knots with thinner in a spray bottle and a rag. Then primed with an oil based primer and painted with latex. 7 years ago. Still looks good. No peeling.
@@davehaggerty3405 Hi I'm ready to do the same thing with pressure treated Kiln Dried. Did you prime the whole deck with oil base or just the knots? Thanks so much!
@@LTDan-pk3mx first I scrubbed the knots with solvent. And waited until they quit oozing sap. Maybe took a week. Then primed the knots. And waited to see if it held. Then primed everything. That’s the problem with painting pine. Those knots dripping sap. You must defeat that first. It takes patience. Even if you’re hiring a painter. Treat the knots yourself. If your deck is a couple of years old those knots have already bled out. Scrub them a little with solvent. Then prime with an oil based exterior primer & paint. Lowes & Home Depot didn’t carry it. I went to Sherwin Williams Paint Store for the primer.
Your best bet is probably to pressure wash the porch, then wash/scrub it with a stiff brush and deck cleaner. (Follow the manufacturer's instructions.) Then pressure wash again to rinse. Then you'll need to let it dry until it's at an acceptable moisture reading for stain. Good luck.
Yes, you can certainly prime your dry pressure-treated wood in preparation for white paint. For the best results, go with a high quality oil-based primer that's rated for exterior application. Good luck.
It's definitely not a must. Unlike raw wood, PT is designed to last a long time without the need for paint or stain. It basically comes down to aesthetics. If you like the look of a painted or stained deck, then go for it. In either scenario, the best way to ensure a long life for your pressure treated deck is to keep up with annual maintenance (cleaning, re-painting/staining).
The whole point of a wood stain is to see the grain including the knots to show/come through! You think about it if you treat the knots then your staining a surface that the stain can not really soak in to this then showing through the stain finish and as it’s white it’s will definitely show! Now if you wanted it white then paint it white treat the knots prime the timber under coat then use your finish of choice! There is products out there that you can put straight on timber that will cover solid in three coats that is more suitable like permeable for example I hope this helps
I will never paint or stain a deck, ever, ever, ever again. I will only clear seal it. To many problems over the years with paint pealing, knots bleeding through, stain fading etc, etc...
What kind of you know what would ever use treated wood on a deck please people don't use arsenicly chemically treated wood to build a deck!! it rots out 10 times faster than non-treated wood!!.. .
He's not talking about being damp from morning dew or whatever. Or water at all. Treated wood( green wood) has chemicals forced into it. It is releasing fumes and gases until it is well dried. Paint cannot penetrate into the wood as well. It won't adhere as well. The wood is already occupied. You want some amount of paint to be absorbed into the wood. That's the purpose of primer. Thinner paint that soaks in better. Then regular paint will adhere to the primer. Damp wood with either water or treatment chemicals will just get a "skin" of paint that will peel off easily. It'll crack and flake sooner. That's why several thin coats is better than one thick one. Thick paint can also trap water inside the wood, causing it to rot. You want it to be able to dry completely and the paint to keep water out, rather than trapping it in.
After many years of building and repairing fences I would suggest that only semi transparent stains, water or oil based, be used after moisture levels are acceptable and most certainly on fence posts and boards that are new. "Solid" tint anything, traps moisture behind the thick pigment when it cracks from the heat of the sun. Then rot starts and damages the fence in a big way shorten it's life dramatically. Re stain every three to four years depending on the wear and tear or look and you should get 15 to 20 years out of that deck or fence.
I agree with everything you said. Never paint pressure treated. Even the semi-transparent 'stains' now are acrylic and trap moisture/peel.
Solid stains are fucking ugly anyway.
Thanks for the excellent video! Straight to the point! No RUclipsr bs….
The way it should be!
I live in Wisconsin, and I have given up on painting pressure treated lumber. I primed and painted for many years, but it always ended up peeling and flaking off. I had to do touch up every year or two. Now I use untreated wood with a primer and the finish paint, and it holds up well to our seasons here.
Me too
Same here is Washington State. Painting treated lumber = constant care
Stain pressure treated and paint fir
Since discovering boiled linseed oil, I'll never paint or stain outdoor wood ever again. For some items I'll even use used motor oil.
All paints and modern stains allow moisture in, but it won't let dry out, that's why it's peeling on you. Not to mention even the pressure traded wood will rot being constantly wet.
A contractor friend of mine told me not to paint or stain for 2-3 years. Then after a few sunny days do either one. I’ve followed his advice used Thomson’s water seal stain and it works well.
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
Love your videos, i’m painting my 115 year old house exterior and without watching your video I did exactly what you said to do. Thank you so much
115 year-old house... that'll keep you busy. Thanks for watching!
I built some raised beds and the “air dried” pressure-treated wood was sopping wet. A few months in the Texas sun and it was dry enough to paint. Of course, the fast drying of intense summer heat led to some warping and twisting, but it still worked. Kiln dried would’ve been better, but also more expensive. Thanks for the video!
This is all useful. Thank you. The meter also works on doody.
Many thanks for the video! Very useful!
you were right to the point thanks
Excellent video, well said!
Thank you! Just the info I needed! 😊
Very interesting and helpful. Thank you.
Any recommendation for a paintable wood sealer to go under acrylic latex paint?
You can't go wrong with a high-quality oil-based primer that's rated for exterior application. However, Jerry has found one latex primer that meets his exterior demands, which is a product by Mad Dog called "Dura-Prime." Good luck.
@@HydeTools cool, thanks for the tip!
Great video. Thanks
Thanks!!
Hyde! Please bring back the early style handle on your putty knives. The new wider butt handle is useless to me. Buying old used stiff back single bevel knives when I can find them
Thanks for sharing your feedback. Love your passion. Have you tried our hardwood-handled knives by any chance? They have a small but loyal following. (Including our friend Jerry in the video above. He loves his hardwood handle multi-tool.) hydetools.com/products/hardwood-handle-carbon-steel-putty-knives
@@HydeTools You can’t hit the wood handles with a hammer! The new wide flared handle on an 1 1/4” stiff back single bevel knife won’t go in a corner to dig out glue squeeze out etc. I used to carry 2 of said knives one dull with no burrs for shaving off stickers and one really sharp that could even serve as a wood chisel. One day I got excited because I saw availability of a five in one with the “classic” handle. The old handle was produced for 3-4 decades. The new handle is not an improvement. My favorite knife has a diamond logo on the blade with Hyde Tools Southbridge Ma. Hydex Steel. Saw your facility on Rt. 198 coming into town one day.
Yes, the wider handle makes it harder to fit in my overall pockets.
Thank you for this nice info. I have maintenance free deck which I believe the floor and stairs are made on plastic or composite wood which does not require painting. However the deck posts and under the deck is wood. Shall i seal the posts and under the deck or not? some ppl says that this would not be a good idea because it would trap moisture in the wood. what do you recommend? shall i paint it or not. thanks
If your posts and structural components are pressure-treated lumber, there is no need to seal with paint or solid stain. However, if you're aiming to make your PT last as long as possible, there's no harm in applying water-repellent treatments (such as Thompson's Water Seal) and using a cleaning agent to remove any mildew that may be forming.
Great advice
Good info, cheers!
Good information.
Never paint pressure treated. Even after the moisture is mostly gone the chemicals will want to leach. Paint will always peel off of pressure treated. Even primed. Opaque Stains are just as bad. They seal the wood and it cracks quicker. Only use thin oil based stain, teak oil or nothing at all.
Thanks for tips! Cheers )
What is the best white paint to use on railing? I’ve failed a couple times already over the past few years. Possibly because I didn’t let the wood dry after power washing and lack of research and what not. Thanks
100 different painters will give you 100 different answers about the best paint to use. It's a matter of preference, but for the most part "you get you pay for" applies. A local paint store (like Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams) will be able to make recommendations based on your project. But as you mentioned, making sure the wood is sufficiently dry and prepped is key -- any paint, no matter how expensive it is, will fail if the underlying surface is wet, dirty, greasy, etc.
My friend wants to stain his fence a solid white. Will the pine knots bleed through or should I prime pine knots with oil primer before staining? Thanks for the video.
The knots will likely bleed through, yes. Your friend can certainly prime the knots first with an oil-based primer, but it's possible that the primer, too, will be visible through the white stain. Try testing it on an inconspicuous spot first. Good luck!
There are transparent and semi transparent stains that allow different amounts of the grain to be visable.
Before painting my deck i scrubbed the pitch off of the knots with thinner in a spray bottle and a rag.
Then primed with an oil based primer and painted with latex.
7 years ago. Still looks good. No peeling.
@@davehaggerty3405 Hi I'm ready to do the same thing with pressure treated Kiln Dried. Did you prime the whole deck with oil base or just the knots? Thanks so much!
@@LTDan-pk3mx first I scrubbed the knots with solvent. And waited until they quit oozing sap. Maybe took a week. Then primed the knots. And waited to see if it held. Then primed everything.
That’s the problem with painting pine. Those knots dripping sap. You must defeat that first. It takes patience. Even if you’re hiring a painter. Treat the knots yourself.
If your deck is a couple of years old those knots have already bled out. Scrub them a little with solvent. Then prime with an oil based exterior primer & paint.
Lowes & Home Depot didn’t carry it. I went to Sherwin Williams Paint Store for the primer.
What do I do if I stained my porch and the treated wood wasn't dry enough? It is slick with stain even after wiping.
Your best bet is probably to pressure wash the porch, then wash/scrub it with a stiff brush and deck cleaner. (Follow the manufacturer's instructions.) Then pressure wash again to rinse. Then you'll need to let it dry until it's at an acceptable moisture reading for stain. Good luck.
@@HydeTools Thank you
What about a primer if you are painting white?
Yes, you can certainly prime your dry pressure-treated wood in preparation for white paint. For the best results, go with a high quality oil-based primer that's rated for exterior application. Good luck.
what did you use for the top of your rail?
It's a composite deck board -- same decking that's on the floor of the deck.
Another question is should you or must you stain or paint presssure treated wood on a deck?
It's definitely not a must. Unlike raw wood, PT is designed to last a long time without the need for paint or stain. It basically comes down to aesthetics. If you like the look of a painted or stained deck, then go for it. In either scenario, the best way to ensure a long life for your pressure treated deck is to keep up with annual maintenance (cleaning, re-painting/staining).
I asked about priming pine knots. You said the primer might show through the white wood stain. Can I prime all the wood? Do anyone ever do that?
Yes you certainly can prime all the wood. You'll then have a consistent, even finish.
The whole point of a wood stain is to see the grain including the knots to show/come through! You think about it if you treat the knots then your staining a surface that the stain can not really soak in to this then showing through the stain finish and as it’s white it’s will definitely show! Now if you wanted it white then paint it white treat the knots prime the timber under coat then use your finish of choice! There is products out there that you can put straight on timber that will cover solid in three coats that is more suitable like permeable for example I hope this helps
I will never paint or stain a deck, ever, ever, ever again. I will only clear seal it. To many problems over the years with paint pealing, knots bleeding through, stain fading etc, etc...
What kind of you know what would ever use treated wood on a deck please people don't use arsenicly chemically treated wood to build a deck!! it rots out 10 times faster than non-treated wood!!.. .
HEY...damp wood is ok to paint with water base products, think about it....there's WATER in the product you're putting on.
Flawed logic
He's not talking about being damp from morning dew or whatever. Or water at all. Treated wood( green wood) has chemicals forced into it. It is releasing fumes and gases until it is well dried. Paint cannot penetrate into the wood as well. It won't adhere as well. The wood is already occupied. You want some amount of paint to be absorbed into the wood. That's the purpose of primer. Thinner paint that soaks in better. Then regular paint will adhere to the primer. Damp wood with either water or treatment chemicals will just get a "skin" of paint that will peel off easily. It'll crack and flake sooner. That's why several thin coats is better than one thick one. Thick paint can also trap water inside the wood, causing it to rot. You want it to be able to dry completely and the paint to keep water out, rather than trapping it in.