Very informative video, thanks. Looking for a Strat myself. I've noticed the CV sounds a bit muddy compared to the Player, and my hypothesis is that it's simply because the electronics are cheap. The fact that you changed the pots and now have something that sounds great, confirms my hypothesis.
@@grandslapper thanks for the comment. It’s a bit if a lottery with cheaper guitars. I don’t remember if mine sounded muddy before tweaking but the electronics could certainly cause that. Pickup height can also make a difference.
Hi Andy, I really enjoyed this video, it was very interesting. It took me back a few years, when I was reconfiguring guitars myself. I have a Squier Affinity Stratocaster in 3 tone sunburst, and following a video from Breja Tone Works I converted it to a HSH layout, introducing a new tortoise shell pickguard, using Warman "Tennessee Revival" humbuckers, whilst retaining the centre Alnico single coil pick up. The guitar now has three push/pull switches, which created a 7 way pick up mod. Pulling the volume switch up allows selection of all three pick ups, or the bridge and neck (also using the top two positions of the 5 way switch). Pulling the two tone switches, and using the 5 way switch in the normal manner, the guitar has a conventional Stratocaster single coil sound. Following some fret levelling and polishing, plus a little fretboard oil, it finished off the job perfectly. And it still sounds great 6 years on!! 😍😃
Great job Phil:) Did you do the fret-levelling yourself? That's something I've not been brave enough to try yet, but definitely would have saved me some money. The push-pull mod I've used on my old parts-caster. I really like the bridge and neck sound.
@@AndyRidgeway Yes I did, when I first got into guitars after retiring in 2017, I got heavily interseted in guitar modification, must be the mechanic in me. I bought loads of Crimson Guitar tools, fret leveller, files, radius gauges, you name it, I bought it!! I modded several with the Jimmy Page 21 Tone configuration (two LP's and a SG). I really enjoyed it at the time, but try to spend more time learning these days. You might like to look up that Breja Tone Works site on RUclips .... 😉😉
You popped up. I wish your channel well. I am only speaking as a hobbyist: I have one with a Laurel fretboard (no reason for the latter other than it was available during lockdown). At no extra charge it came with a PLEK set up (I know but it did). Versus a Tele CV that never had that I would not pay extra for it based on just that - my experience. The only issue I had was that the tuners were out of balance (plain jerky a couple), but Fender/Squier were great sorting under warranty (new ones with me in days). Trem wise my standard one is fine - all screws down snug, then a quarter turn back for me. Pots/wiring-wise it's cheap but gets the job I need done, so OK for now. Neck wise I leave it but so glossy is not a plus, IMO. I've heard people saying it goes back to feeling glossy/sticky quick if they rub it down........They look nice in the main room, and I can leave them there and pick them up as so easily to hand......
@@jamesmgreen15 thanks for the comment. I didn’t know they made a laurel one. Sounds cool. I usually prefer the look and feel of darker woods to maple.
A vibrato bridge isn’t rocket science if it’s stiff it can only be 2 things the springs are to tight or the screws are way to low which won’t allow movement of the bridge plate. Note for saddles the buying new saddles won’t so,very the screws stabbing you because the root cause is the screws not the saddle, solution buy shorter screws ( many already manufactured on the open market and cheap).
I messed about with the springs, claw and the screws to no avail. I changed the sustain block for the benefit of gaining a push-in arm. By accident it made the whole trem more responsive. As for the grub-screws, yes much cheaper to just replace them, but I got the string saddles off a friend at a ridiculous price.
Classsic vibe 60 uses nyatoh body, much more dense, some more resonance. The clear 50s CV uses pine. Others are poplar. The really old squires uses alder. At least the CV is full body thickness. Price is good for a used one. I heard the older CV were better. Probably better than jet and Harley Benton guitars too.
Very informative video, thanks. Looking for a Strat myself. I've noticed the CV sounds a bit muddy compared to the Player, and my hypothesis is that it's simply because the electronics are cheap. The fact that you changed the pots and now have something that sounds great, confirms my hypothesis.
@@grandslapper thanks for the comment. It’s a bit if a lottery with cheaper guitars. I don’t remember if mine sounded muddy before tweaking but the electronics could certainly cause that. Pickup height can also make a difference.
Hi Andy, I really enjoyed this video, it was very interesting.
It took me back a few years, when I was reconfiguring guitars myself.
I have a Squier Affinity Stratocaster in 3 tone sunburst, and following a video from Breja Tone Works
I converted it to a HSH layout, introducing a new tortoise shell pickguard, using Warman "Tennessee Revival" humbuckers,
whilst retaining the centre Alnico single coil pick up.
The guitar now has three push/pull switches, which created a 7 way pick up mod. Pulling the volume switch up allows
selection of all three pick ups, or the bridge and neck (also using the top two positions of the 5 way switch).
Pulling the two tone switches, and using the 5 way switch in the normal manner, the guitar has a conventional Stratocaster single coil sound.
Following some fret levelling and polishing, plus a little fretboard oil, it finished off the job perfectly.
And it still sounds great 6 years on!! 😍😃
Great job Phil:) Did you do the fret-levelling yourself? That's something I've not been brave enough to try yet, but definitely would have saved me some money. The push-pull mod I've used on my old parts-caster. I really like the bridge and neck sound.
@@AndyRidgeway Yes I did, when I first got into guitars after retiring in 2017, I got heavily interseted in guitar modification, must be the mechanic in me.
I bought loads of Crimson Guitar tools, fret leveller, files, radius gauges, you name it, I bought it!!
I modded several with the Jimmy Page 21 Tone configuration (two LP's and a SG).
I really enjoyed it at the time, but try to spend more time learning these days.
You might like to look up that Breja Tone Works site on RUclips .... 😉😉
You popped up. I wish your channel well. I am only speaking as a hobbyist: I have one with a Laurel fretboard (no reason for the latter other than it was available during lockdown). At no extra charge it came with a PLEK set up (I know but it did). Versus a Tele CV that never had that I would not pay extra for it based on just that - my experience. The only issue I had was that the tuners were out of balance (plain jerky a couple), but Fender/Squier were great sorting under warranty (new ones with me in days). Trem wise my standard one is fine - all screws down snug, then a quarter turn back for me. Pots/wiring-wise it's cheap but gets the job I need done, so OK for now. Neck wise I leave it but so glossy is not a plus, IMO. I've heard people saying it goes back to feeling glossy/sticky quick if they rub it down........They look nice in the main room, and I can leave them there and pick them up as so easily to hand......
@@jamesmgreen15 thanks for the comment. I didn’t know they made a laurel one. Sounds cool. I usually prefer the look and feel of darker woods to maple.
I’ve been playing over 50 years 2 problems with Squire the thick poly finish and the cheap wiring but great for the price I play a 50s P bass
A vibrato bridge isn’t rocket science if it’s stiff it can only be 2 things the springs are to tight or the screws are way to low which won’t allow movement of the bridge plate. Note for saddles the buying new saddles won’t so,very the screws stabbing you because the root cause is the screws not the saddle, solution buy shorter screws ( many already manufactured on the open market and cheap).
I messed about with the springs, claw and the screws to no avail. I changed the sustain block for the benefit of gaining a push-in arm. By accident it made the whole trem more responsive. As for the grub-screws, yes much cheaper to just replace them, but I got the string saddles off a friend at a ridiculous price.
我看用白杨木琴体的squier不如basswood琴体squier
Classsic vibe 60 uses nyatoh body, much more dense, some more resonance. The clear 50s CV uses pine. Others are poplar. The really old squires uses alder. At least the CV is full body thickness. Price is good for a used one. I heard the older CV were better. Probably better than jet and Harley Benton guitars too.