Hell yeah!!! I call them 'suicide shifters' because you take your hand off the brake on the entry to a corner, downshift, then get back on it. Hardcore, and I love it!!
After watching this, I want to keep my rim brakes as long as possible. I may not have the stopping power, but folks have used rim brakes for 100 years or so. I'll do OK.
@@TheSpaceBrosShow Thanks - Simpler, lighter, less expensive, no new special tools needed, far less fear of foreign substances since no brake rotor, long since paid for and independence from bike shops. We human beings are full of "logical fallacies." This is a minor one.
On the dry days I ride, my rim brakes can stop my bike so hard that i would fly over the handle bar if I applied full braking power. Disk brakes can't prevent that and brake better. On the rear, disk brakes make little sense. However, if I ever(!) buy a new bike, it will have disk brakes.
I use WD40 on my chain. I usually clean my drivetrain with a suitable cleaner, then wash my whole bike down. Rinse the bike and drivetrain, stuff a clean rag over the rotor/caliper and spray wd40 over the chain to displace the water. I'll then wipe everything down, finishing with wiping the chain thoroughly. Then I'll relube the chain. I might have a sit down with a coffee before grabbing the chain lube though! I do neglect my commuting bike drivetrain though. The route I take is regularly knacker deep in mud (for probably 8/9 months of the year) and cleaning the bike even weekly would be fairly time consuming. If the bike had expensive parts, then it would be cleaned a lot more. The time saved cleaning over the cost of a new chain, cassette, and jockey wheels? I'll replace them every Spring Bank Holiday.
Good idea waiting for it to dry while you sip on a coffee! Also, yes it can clean the chain quite well, I just think a designated bicycle degreaser would do a better job it all - but still WD40 is great for cleaning.
I agree with the waxing side of things - But I'm too lazy to set up the station at home. That's my sole reason for not doing it - laziness. I've only heard positive things though.
@@recyclebicyclesales waxing 2 chains and swapping them is for lazy ppl ... thats why i said it =P im a lazy person too XD And when you need to clean your bike, just no need for degreeser! Remove your chain, wash your bike (ez part) and put the other waxxed chain on your bike and done =P Ezier than using WD40 or any other type of degreeser and cleaning the chain and chain rings etc etc With wax chain you don't need to lube nothing else =P
The best and easiest way I found to bleed brakes I learned from watching "Free to Cycle" RUclipsr. This works with mineral oil systems, I don't think I would do it with DOT fluid. I leave the wheel in the bike. I connect a trigger spray bottle, just the trigger using about a foot long piece of clear tubing, to the caliper. I install the bleed cup on the lever and fill it up. Then just pump the trigger into a waste container. Run enough fluid through the system to get the air out which you will see in the tube connecting the trigger to the caliper. Use clear tubing dummies. This beats a lot of extra steps installing a bleed block and buying syringes. My Dura-Ace lever have been trouble free for over a year now and it only took minutes to get it right versus the days I fluffed around with the syringe method and failed.
Degreasing and lubing the chain is the most time-consuming part of cleaning my bike. I'm the type to fuss over each link. I still do it anyway as it makes for good meditation. 😅
WD-40 is so overrated. One point you didn't mention is that it evaporates. After 2 days, you've got nothing. Not even on that squeaky door hinge. Good point to mention is the spray-down, quick clean prior to the shop visit. Just out of respect. Also, after massive, deep invasive surgery and repairs, I try to return with cash and massive bags of candy and chips. Bill O'
By that I meant that sometimes you can contaminate them. You can do a pretty good job of cleaning them with alcohol, but there's only so much you can clean them...
No no no. Never "throw away" a bike. I was saying it might be more cost effective to consider a new bike. I mentioned that they could even consider donating it. I also used the word "politely" because I would never rudely say, "your bike is f**". It's just some advice for lots of viewers at home - no the bible.
@recyclebicyclesales Fair enough, and yes, you made it clear you're regularly recycling and overhauling bikes. It's that your idea of cost effective seems a bit different to mine: how much new bike can you get for the equivalent cost of new cables and housing, a clean, re-lube and tune-up, brake pads and possibly new bars if the rust is really bad? Unless your labour costs are extreme, you can't be looking at more than a couple of hundred max. I'm not throwing shade on you mate, in fact I'm one of your new subs 😅. There's obviously a spectrum in terms of new bike cost (new 'new' vs pre-loved), but even an entry-level clunker will set you back hundreds if it's from a shop 🤷♂️
Nice looking work area, especially the wine bottles.
Rim Brakes & Down Tube Shifters For The Win 🤙🤙
Hell yeah!!! I call them 'suicide shifters' because you take your hand off the brake on the entry to a corner, downshift, then get back on it. Hardcore, and I love it!!
agree with rim brakes...but shifters don't seem to matter that much..
YES! Both of my vintage road bikes have rim brakes, 27" wheels, and downtube shifters... 😁😁
You can read every word on a can of WD-40 and you will not find the word "lubricate."
Interesting. I just looked at the can and you're absolutely right!
After watching this, I want to keep my rim brakes as long as possible. I may not have the stopping power, but folks have used rim brakes for 100 years or so. I'll do OK.
Logical fallacy but you do you
@@TheSpaceBrosShow Thanks - Simpler, lighter, less expensive, no new special tools needed, far less fear of foreign substances since no brake rotor, long since paid for and independence from bike shops. We human beings are full of "logical fallacies." This is a minor one.
On the dry days I ride, my rim brakes can stop my bike so hard that i would fly over the handle bar if I applied full braking power. Disk brakes can't prevent that and brake better. On the rear, disk brakes make little sense. However, if I ever(!) buy a new bike, it will have disk brakes.
@my_dear_friend_ if you buy a new bike, you won't have a choice.
@@daniellarson3068amen!
I use WD40 on my chain.
I usually clean my drivetrain with a suitable cleaner, then wash my whole bike down. Rinse the bike and drivetrain, stuff a clean rag over the rotor/caliper and spray wd40 over the chain to displace the water. I'll then wipe everything down, finishing with wiping the chain thoroughly. Then I'll relube the chain. I might have a sit down with a coffee before grabbing the chain lube though!
I do neglect my commuting bike drivetrain though. The route I take is regularly knacker deep in mud (for probably 8/9 months of the year) and cleaning the bike even weekly would be fairly time consuming. If the bike had expensive parts, then it would be cleaned a lot more. The time saved cleaning over the cost of a new chain, cassette, and jockey wheels? I'll replace them every Spring Bank Holiday.
just wax it ... its ezier for mud etc.... and you could also use 2 chains and swap them while one is in the pot the other is in the bike
Good idea waiting for it to dry while you sip on a coffee! Also, yes it can clean the chain quite well, I just think a designated bicycle degreaser would do a better job it all - but still WD40 is great for cleaning.
I agree with the waxing side of things - But I'm too lazy to set up the station at home. That's my sole reason for not doing it - laziness. I've only heard positive things though.
@@recyclebicyclesales waxing 2 chains and swapping them is for lazy ppl ... thats why i said it =P im a lazy person too XD
And when you need to clean your bike, just no need for degreeser!
Remove your chain, wash your bike (ez part) and put the other waxxed chain on your bike and done =P
Ezier than using WD40 or any other type of degreeser and cleaning the chain and chain rings etc etc
With wax chain you don't need to lube nothing else =P
@@recyclebicyclesales the maintenance can cost a bit more maybe... i don't know =P
The best and easiest way I found to bleed brakes I learned from watching "Free to Cycle" RUclipsr. This works with mineral oil systems, I don't think I would do it with DOT fluid. I leave the wheel in the bike. I connect a trigger spray bottle, just the trigger using about a foot long piece of clear tubing, to the caliper. I install the bleed cup on the lever and fill it up. Then just pump the trigger into a waste container. Run enough fluid through the system to get the air out which you will see in the tube connecting the trigger to the caliper. Use clear tubing dummies. This beats a lot of extra steps installing a bleed block and buying syringes. My Dura-Ace lever have been trouble free for over a year now and it only took minutes to get it right versus the days I fluffed around with the syringe method and failed.
Sounds like it works well for you. Thanks for sharing. We've also done some videos about bleeding both Sram and Shimano brakes (separate videos)
Good thing i watched this video because i was thinking of using a power wahser for cleaning my bike. Thanks
Ahh lucky - just in time
You can still use one - just stand further back
I don't use spray but I've used liquid WD for over 30yrs to clean the chain and then oil trouble free
That sounds like a good alternative. Nice one
I use inox with the straw attached so I get a more direct spray , I only use degreaser on the chain and cogs on the rear wheel to clean out any dirt
Sounds like a good idea!
Degreasing and lubing the chain is the most time-consuming part of cleaning my bike. I'm the type to fuss over each link. I still do it anyway as it makes for good meditation. 😅
I've never been diagnosed with OCD, but sometimes I swear I might have it...
disk brakes are more trouble than they worth....rim brakes best....never a problem
For a second there I thought Daniel Radcliffe was moonlighting as a bike mechanic.
You can call me Danny...
Auto break cleaner...then Walmart cheap spray lube....
WD-40 is so overrated. One point you didn't mention is that it evaporates. After 2 days, you've got nothing. Not even on that squeaky door hinge. Good point to mention is the spray-down, quick clean prior to the shop visit. Just out of respect. Also, after massive, deep invasive surgery and repairs, I try to return with cash and massive bags of candy and chips. Bill O'
You are my favorite type of client. I'm a fiend for a bar of chocolate though...
New rotors on wd40 lost me.
By that I meant that sometimes you can contaminate them. You can do a pretty good job of cleaning them with alcohol, but there's only so much you can clean them...
Pressure washer to wash the bike?We are doomed indeed!
Gotta be careful!
So - an e-bike cannot be used in wet and muddy conditions?
They can be used in the wet, absolutely. All I'm saying is don't point high pressure water directly at the motor/bearings.
Yea but they didn’t use wider tires or carbon wheels. If you don’t have either stick with rim brakes.
I think there will always be a very large market for rim brake bikes.
Throwing out a bike because it has surface rust? Wow. Don’t think I’d appreciate advice like that from a bike shop 😮
I don't think that's what he was saying.
That's exactly what he was saying 4:20 to 5:00 @@CanItAlready
No no no. Never "throw away" a bike. I was saying it might be more cost effective to consider a new bike. I mentioned that they could even consider donating it. I also used the word "politely" because I would never rudely say, "your bike is f**". It's just some advice for lots of viewers at home - no the bible.
@recyclebicyclesales
Fair enough, and yes, you made it clear you're regularly recycling and overhauling bikes. It's that your idea of cost effective seems a bit different to mine: how much new bike can you get for the equivalent cost of new cables and housing, a clean, re-lube and tune-up, brake pads and possibly new bars if the rust is really bad? Unless your labour costs are extreme, you can't be looking at more than a couple of hundred max.
I'm not throwing shade on you mate, in fact I'm one of your new subs 😅. There's obviously a spectrum in terms of new bike cost (new 'new' vs pre-loved), but even an entry-level clunker will set you back hundreds if it's from a shop 🤷♂️
You'd wash your bike over carpet...? 🤔
Simplistic drivel