Being new to hand planes and not knowing the difference between them, I decided to research it. First video I see is Rob Cosman explaining that No 4's we're built for school kids to use and any grown man should be using a No 5. Wow. Mr Sellers, thank you not only for sharing your knowledge, but also thank you for your humble and down to earth attitude.
Hi Paul. I have just restored my dad's no4 Stanley after watching all your videos. it works so lovely and must be 70 years old at least. And since he passed it's wonderful to have it in my hand. thanks Tony.
I did the same after my father passed, he loved his number 3 and hated his number 4, I discovered why during the refurb, the bevel was the wrong way round ( bevel up) on the number 4
There’s something very satisfying in taking some of dad’s old tools an making them work well again. I have several of my dad’s old chisels that I have de-rusted and re-handled, an old bow saw that I used as a child to cut firewood, sharpened and cleaned that cuts so much better than its modern counterpart.Hand saws that I have cleaned and sharpened as per the Paul Sellers tutorials.
Around 2011 I bought a €40,00 Stanley 12-204. When I launched seriously into handtool woodworking, I began restoring this old/new plane. It cost me weeks (I also have a fulltime job) to restore all the metal parts, replace the pvc-parts and make a new knob and tote. That crappy thing now looks stunning and works like a pre-wwII Stanley. It was truly worth the time and effort. Many greetings from the Netherlands, Gershom Ratheiser
I have inherited or restored almost all my woodworking tools and I love the thought of the woodworkers who have used them before me. I hope one day another woodworker will use mine.
Thank you Paul. This type of testimonies from someone as accomplished as Paul are things to come back to, whenever you find yourself in one of those situations, when you begin to believe you are limited or blocked by the lack of some special tool for the task at hand. It's rarely the case.
I am only a “keen novice” to fine woodworking but years ago I came across an old dilapidated No.7 plane and the research I did on it at the time indicated that it was designed for jointing work. It was the only plane I had for some years and I got to know it and love it. I recently made one of your desktop organisers and I frequently found myself reaching for my no.7 instead of the No.4 which have acquired more recently. I quess that my comment is more about the fact that people shouldn’t stress too much about what tool they have, or how they use it, just as long as they can get the results they what . Repeatedly. I think that this is a theme I see running through a lot of your videos which I admire and appreciate immensely.
You can do most things with a No. 7, no problem. It’s just heavy and unwieldy for some tasks, and of course jointing has always been its inteded purpose. I sometimes use mine for smaller pieces because I like the long bit of sole I have available in front of the blade: makes it easier to register the plane on the wood before starting the stroke. Most people will say that you don’t really need a No. 7 - that’s true, but I’ve never met anybody who had a No. 7 and gave it away. They’re fun, I really like mine.
Thank you Paul for the highlight n the #4 smoothing plane. I suspect that like all artists, your preference for the #4 comes from your overwhelming experience. Having watched your videos for years now I have come to believe that your right hand has become a #4 plane that magically appears as soon as the vise closes on a piece of wood that needs any truing up. Now I just hope that the price and availability of used #4 planes does not go the route of the router plane after you extolled its virtues and use. Again thank you for all that you share with us.
I just got my first real Stanley plane (had only used "harbor freight" quality planes before). It's a Bailey #4 Type 12 and it's an absolute dream. Watched your videos on how to set it up and tune it. Absolutely no complaints. Money very well spent for the quality of the work it produces, as well as the enjoyment I get from using it. With those two things in mind, it's actually quite "cheap" for how much of a tool you're really getting. Thanks, Paul.
Thanks Paul... I recently purchased a #4 plane that came as a set of ( 3 ) planes in a dovetailed box & made in India of all places, through a specialty tool company here in the states. Surprisingly very high quality as I wiped them all down 1st thing. I learned 1st hand that the #4 is indeed a bevel down plane as you alluded to this at the very beginning of your presentation, it won't work any other way btw as I found out very quickly, LOL! Your little tips here & there are quite helpful too... In closing about ( 2 ) years back I followed your wood vise install for one was given to me that goes back to the 40's or 50's I believe. I did a restoration on it & followed your install video on it into my workbench with some slight modifications for my particular install. The install came out perfect thanks in no small part to watching the install of your old Record vise I believe. My 10" vise which is now a 14" vise was forged in Pennsylvania back in the day...It has become a inherent part of most everything I do working with wood now... Now I'm ready to plane some wood... Bill on the Hill... Vermont, USA... :~)
I've only started playing with wood in the last 12 months or so, I now own 3 number 5's and several number 4's. I must admit, I do love the 4, I'll use the 5 just for roughing out (I use pallet wood because it's free and I'm broke) and the 4 for smoothing. Having said that, I have a dedicated 5 (a Faithful) that can get very close to the fine shavings one would expect from a 4.
Keep your eye out for old wood that is being ripped out of buildings or old furniture that is being thrown out. Pine is also a fantastic wood for craft furniture and can be had for cheap.
Hi, Paul! Love your RUclips channel and blog. It was such a delightful surprise to see you and be able to say hi to you on the high street yesterday. A big thank you to you for your infectious passion for woodworking and generosity for sharing your knowledge with us. Hope to be able to visit your workshop some day. Thank you!
I was always told to start with a #4 and a #7. Both will do everything you need, with the exception of dado's, rabbits. But, those are specialty planes any way. Thank you Paul, as always, very informative. Cheers :)
Just planed some pieces of hard birch with no4 and no6 and a wooden no4 sized planes. I must say big heavy plane straightens wood much easier and it also pushes through when you get quite a lot momentum before cutting starts. Iron plane has an advantage over wooden one because you can push it from lower and you have proper handles in it. No78 is very efficient because you have such strong grip and it has narrow blade, you can use it as a scrub plane
Thanks again for wonderful information Mr. Paul! I too prefer my #4 over all the others. For me, it just seems to fit better and is easier to work with than the longer wider jointer planes.
Recently restored an old Stanley No. 4 and yeah, it's my favourite. I started out with a very cheap and badly made No. 4 pattern plane which worked about as well as you'd expect a bad plane to work after many many hours of lapping it away to a nub. Needless to say, I can understand why the Stanley planes were so popular for so many years.
It’s no wonder that the number 4 is most favoured, after all it’s the first plane you see at school, your dad had one, and it’ll do most things, I have several, I have a couple of fives and a five and a half, I don’t use them much, I think probably because my old woodwork master was sniffy about them (“only for rough work boy “) I was always impressed by the big “try” plane, but have never owned one, Two of the best chippies I have known said “its the kind of plane you buy when you are young, and never use !”
I must have 7-8 metal planes. All are good but if I had to choose a favorite it would be my old Stanley 4 1/2. I really like the wider blade and heavier base. Really hugs the wood.
What Paul is saying is absolutely true… BUT he’s a master in woodworking. Hand planing and jointing long lengths is not easy. He can do that because he’s an extremely talented, proficient and experienced woodworker. But I think that using a longer and wider plane makes life much easier for a beginner. If you have just started in woodworking and you are on a budget, then go for a No.4
Notice too, its what he started with. Its what he learned on and so he got to know that plane best. I have the same experience with the 5. Its my go to. So find a plane in that 4-5 range in length and learn to use it. Might be the only plane you'll ever need for taking rough lumber to smooth. Neither will do the job of a longer jointer plane as efficiently, but they can do the job.
My first plane was a number 5 which i restored and i learned on it so recently when i restored a number 4 it now seems that the number 5 is more comfortable to me ... I guess its because ive used it for so long now ... Great planes if you learn how to sharpen them well .... Its takes quite some time of experimentation to learn how to sharpen but over the past year and a half or 2yrs that ive been into wood working ive managed to find a way that works for me and im managing to plane 8/4 beech and maple endgrain with ease - it took a looottt of hours experimenting with sharpening though !!!
I always reach for the No 5 and I only use my No 4 for finishing.
3 года назад+5
Thanks for the video. But i believe it's not the #4 has the magic. It's your craftsmanship, experience and knowledge. I'm pretty sure it really doesn't matter 4 or 5 or 4,5 or wooden or cast iron or whatever. The beginners usually tend to think the tool itself is what matters and if they buy that razor sharp japanesse saw or high end, thick blade plane they'll master the work. When i watch your videos, i can see my own granfather who was a metal worker and worked with very few tools and bad conditions but his work was excellent. So, hands know not no4. My greetings and respects...
Agreed 100% The first plane I bought was a number 4, brand new off eBay, it cost £8.45 delivered, it was the best purchase I made in a long time, in order to get this to work (or end up being an ugly paperweight) I had to watch a lot of videos on how to set up and sharpen a plane. By the time I got it to work properly, I had a pretty good knowledge of the workings of a hand plane. I also made every mistake a novice can possibly do and a couple yet to be invented :-) At the time I couldn't afford a nice old Stanley off eBay, so I just had to make what I had work. Since then, a family friend gave me 3 old Stanley's, probably from the 1950's to 1960's. That had been in a shed when the roof collapsed and had remained there, often underwater, for several years. You can imagine the state they were in when I got them !!! They are all working again now but I still have a lot of sanding to do to get the corrosion off the soles. The chrome is peeling off the levercap's and it's going to stay that way, strangely, it's always my first number 4 I reach for when plainning.
I have a Bailey #3 which belonged to my grandfather. It is more than 100 years old, I'm sure. It could use a new iron though I did sharpen up the existing one and took my first shavings with it a few days ago. It's more of a keepsake than anything but I'm happy I was able to get it to the point where it actually can work again. Amazingly, the sole of this plane is very flat.
my original plane was a CHEAP Stanley #4, it had plastic knobs and totes. I eventually bought a good 5 1/2 which is my do almost everything Jack plane. I have a #3 for a smoothing plane and I like the smaller size. That cheap #4 got new wood totes, a new blade and got converted to a Scrub plane. One day, I might need to see about a new, good #4, but really it would mostly be superfluous with what I have otherwise.
Hi Paul, very much enjoy watching your videos. I love woodworking but I am used to using mostly power tools. However I would like to get a set of vintage planes and learn the old school way. First No 4, then 5 and later the 6. Would you please advise me which of the two manufacturers Stanley or Record made better planes in the UK? I've seen you using both in your early videos and in your later videos its mostly Stanley. Tried doing some research on Internet but there is a lot of mixed opinion and talk about the original US made Stanley planes. I am a Czech person living in Sheffield and after visiting the Kelham Island museum I would be very proud to own little bit of Sheffield heritage once I move back home. Many thanks
Just finished restoring an old Stanley 4½ which actually feels quite comfortable compared with the 4 and I don't have particularly large hands, it also seems to have considerably more mass for that bit of extra width which may be useful on a shooting board. But my favourite is still my (fairly) old Clifton No 5, but then I'm a biased Englishman. Funny thing collecting all of these planes and finding you only use one or two (me, the Clifton and a little Lie Neilsen block plane), Stanley was obviously onto a great marketing ploy giving them all numbers, because you've just got to collect the lot!! Now, where can I find that No 1, 2, 6...?
Paul, have you ever heard of a Spinny 4-1/2? I think it was made by Stanley or Record for one of the big 'catalogue' companies in the UK. I am just wondering if it is worth tuning up. Thanks
Interesting. A 5 1/2 has always been my bread and butter plane, along with a 7 and an adjustable block. Never did meet a 4 I liked much - pretty much everybody else in the trade seems to favour them, though.
Stumpy Nubs alludes to what you're saying here, especially if you are a power tool user, which I tend to be, however I just rec'd my 1st ever smoother & it is indeed a #4 for now. I will be hankering for the #5 in all eventualities I suspect... Bill on the Hill... :~)
@@billonthehill9984 I think that's a good plan because you can swap the irons if need be, especially if you decide to buy heavier or laminated ones - may as well go for the same width. In my case the 7 was a non-negotiable necessity because I was doing a lot of truing up table leaves early on in my career so it made sense to stick to 2 3/8". The only thing I'd say on the other hand is that the wider planes are heavier, and that can be a good thing.
Some people recommend to start with a No. 5, and I would agree: the longer sole gives you a little more confidence when you’re straightening up a piece of wood. Keep in mind that the title of the video is “Why Paul Sellers likes the #4 Plane” and not “The No. 4 should be your first plane”. Of course there‘s no reason not to get a No. 4, especially in places where No. 4 planes are the most common ones to find and the cheapest. It is the most versatile plane, although I would probably go for a No. 5 if I could only have one. On the other hand, the No. 4 is not as heavy, so I might change my mind at some point, who knows. Weight is a factor if you’re using a tool all day, even as a hobbyist. For that reason, I’m not a huge fan of the wider irons (e.g. 4 1/2 and 5 1/2) - they don’t give you much, they just used to save craftsmen some time.
Many people recommend a low angle Jack plane as your first plane, and IF you were new to woodworking and starting from scratch, I would agree. I even wanted to get one myself. However, as the guy from Highland Woodworking pointed out, as you do more and get more tools and new specialty planes, eventually, that low angle Jack plane will primarily become just a very good, very expensive Shooting board plane .
@@ugaladh It started a few years ago, and I can’t shake the feeling that most of the people recommending the low angle jack plane were encouraged to do so by the manufacturers. But I’ll probably get one at some point. I consider my collection more or less complete: I have two No. 4 planes, a No. 5 1/2, a No. 7 and a bunch of specialty planes, all vintage - but I’d be happy to trade in the No. 5 1/2 for a No. 5 - the wider iron isn’t doing anything for me. At the same time I’d like to try out a brand new plane, and the No. 62 has the same footprint as a No. 5. Also, there’s a toothed iron available for the Lie Nielsen No. 62 that can be used for scrubbing - I’m interested in that, too. The low angle of the cutting iron is the feature I actually don’t really care about. If it really makes planing end grain that much easier, great - but I’ve never had a problem with that, the only obstacle I’ve experienced so far is being too lazy to keep my irons sharp at all times.
Can you do a video on how to true up a board with a 4 or perhaps exercises on increasing our proficiency? Tried to flatten with a 4 and it never comes out right. I always have to break out the 6 to right the errors.
Everyone has its preferred chisel, square, plane ... this particular specimen that gets picked more than the other for no particularly objective reason. The fit, the feel, the history ... Then, no one can really go wrong by picking a 4 to a 5 1/2 as their first all around plane purchase.
Being new to hand planes and not knowing the difference between them, I decided to research it. First video I see is Rob Cosman explaining that No 4's we're built for school kids to use and any grown man should be using a No 5. Wow.
Mr Sellers, thank you not only for sharing your knowledge, but also thank you for your humble and down to earth attitude.
Hi Paul. I have just restored my dad's no4 Stanley after watching all your videos. it works so lovely and must be 70 years old at least. And since he passed it's wonderful to have it in my hand. thanks Tony.
I did the same after my father passed, he loved his number 3 and hated his number 4, I discovered why during the refurb, the bevel was the wrong way round ( bevel up) on the number 4
@@WS-ij1fu I just wish it worked as good in my hand as it did in his. Maybe one day with Paul's help.
There’s something very satisfying in taking some of dad’s old tools an making them work well again. I have several of my dad’s old chisels that I have de-rusted and re-handled, an old bow saw that I used as a child to cut firewood, sharpened and cleaned that cuts so much better than its modern counterpart.Hand saws that I have cleaned and sharpened as per the Paul Sellers tutorials.
Around 2011 I bought a €40,00 Stanley 12-204. When I launched seriously into handtool woodworking, I began restoring this old/new plane. It cost me weeks (I also have a fulltime job) to restore all the metal parts, replace the pvc-parts and make a new knob and tote. That crappy thing now looks stunning and works like a pre-wwII Stanley. It was truly worth the time and effort. Many greetings from the Netherlands, Gershom Ratheiser
I have inherited or restored almost all my woodworking tools and I love the thought of the woodworkers who have used them before me. I hope one day another woodworker will use mine.
Thank you Paul. This type of testimonies from someone as accomplished as Paul are things to come back to, whenever you find yourself in one of those situations, when you begin to believe you are limited or blocked by the lack of some special tool for the task at hand. It's rarely the case.
I am only a “keen novice” to fine woodworking but years ago I came across an old dilapidated No.7 plane and the research I did on it at the time indicated that it was designed for jointing work. It was the only plane I had for some years and I got to know it and love it. I recently made one of your desktop organisers and I frequently found myself reaching for my no.7 instead of the No.4 which have acquired more recently.
I quess that my comment is more about the fact that people shouldn’t stress too much about what tool they have, or how they use it, just as long as they can get the results they what . Repeatedly.
I think that this is a theme I see running through a lot of your videos which I admire and appreciate immensely.
You can do most things with a No. 7, no problem. It’s just heavy and unwieldy for some tasks, and of course jointing has always been its inteded purpose. I sometimes use mine for smaller pieces because I like the long bit of sole I have available in front of the blade: makes it easier to register the plane on the wood before starting the stroke.
Most people will say that you don’t really need a No. 7 - that’s true, but I’ve never met anybody who had a No. 7 and gave it away. They’re fun, I really like mine.
I cannot imagine getting better advice from ANYBODY.
Thank you Paul for the highlight n the #4 smoothing plane. I suspect that like all artists, your preference for the #4 comes from your overwhelming experience. Having watched your videos for years now I have come to believe that your right hand has become a #4 plane that magically appears as soon as the vise closes on a piece of wood that needs any truing up. Now I just hope that the price and availability of used #4 planes does not go the route of the router plane after you extolled its virtues and use. Again thank you for all that you share with us.
I just got my first real Stanley plane (had only used "harbor freight" quality planes before). It's a Bailey #4 Type 12 and it's an absolute dream. Watched your videos on how to set it up and tune it. Absolutely no complaints. Money very well spent for the quality of the work it produces, as well as the enjoyment I get from using it. With those two things in mind, it's actually quite "cheap" for how much of a tool you're really getting. Thanks, Paul.
concise explanation. subscribed. TY
Thanks for your insights Paul. You rule!
Thank you Paul . As a novice woodworker I appreciate your input
Thanks Paul... I recently purchased a #4 plane that came as a set of ( 3 ) planes in a dovetailed box & made in India of all places, through a specialty tool company here in the states. Surprisingly very high quality as I wiped them all down 1st thing. I learned 1st hand that the #4 is indeed a bevel down plane as you alluded to this at the very beginning of your presentation, it won't work any other way btw as I found out very quickly, LOL! Your little tips here & there are quite helpful too...
In closing about ( 2 ) years back I followed your wood vise install for one was given to me that goes back to the 40's or 50's I believe. I did a restoration on it & followed your install video on it into my workbench with some slight modifications for my particular install. The install came out perfect thanks in no small part to watching the install of your old Record vise I believe. My 10" vise which is now a 14" vise was forged in Pennsylvania back in the day...It has become a inherent part of most everything I do working with wood now... Now I'm ready to plane some wood...
Bill on the Hill...
Vermont, USA... :~)
Stanley sold a lot more 4/5 than other sizes, which is telling in itself. Paul’s skills and experience are a resource we are lucky to have.
I think Chris Schwarz said if it’s rare it probably wasn’t very good.
@@mramseyISU Like the Bedrook planes
@@linetiilikainen2755 😄👌
I've only started playing with wood in the last 12 months or so, I now own 3 number 5's and several number 4's. I must admit, I do love the 4, I'll use the 5 just for roughing out (I use pallet wood because it's free and I'm broke) and the 4 for smoothing. Having said that, I have a dedicated 5 (a Faithful) that can get very close to the fine shavings one would expect from a 4.
Keep your eye out for old wood that is being ripped out of buildings or old furniture that is being thrown out.
Pine is also a fantastic wood for craft furniture and can be had for cheap.
Thanks, nice straight talk. To the point.
Thank you paul for sharing all your great knowledge
For a long time I only had a #5. I bought a #4 a while ago on your recommendation and it fast became my favorite plane. It really is more versatile.
Hi, Paul! Love your RUclips channel and blog. It was such a delightful surprise to see you and be able to say hi to you on the high street yesterday. A big thank you to you for your infectious passion for woodworking and generosity for sharing your knowledge with us. Hope to be able to visit your workshop some day. Thank you!
I was always told to start with a #4 and a #7. Both will do everything you need, with the exception of dado's, rabbits. But, those are specialty planes any way. Thank you Paul, as always, very informative. Cheers :)
Awesome, Paul! Thanks a lot! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The Stanley #4 was my first plane also.
Thank you Paul 👍
Just planed some pieces of hard birch with no4 and no6 and a wooden no4 sized planes. I must say big heavy plane straightens wood much easier and it also pushes through when you get quite a lot momentum before cutting starts.
Iron plane has an advantage over wooden one because you can push it from lower and you have proper handles in it. No78 is very efficient because you have such strong grip and it has narrow blade, you can use it as a scrub plane
Thanks again for wonderful information Mr. Paul! I too prefer my #4 over all the others. For me, it just seems to fit better and is easier to work with than the longer wider jointer planes.
Recently restored an old Stanley No. 4 and yeah, it's my favourite. I started out with a very cheap and badly made No. 4 pattern plane which worked about as well as you'd expect a bad plane to work after many many hours of lapping it away to a nub. Needless to say, I can understand why the Stanley planes were so popular for so many years.
It’s no wonder that the number 4 is most favoured, after all it’s the first plane you see at school, your dad had one, and it’ll do most things, I have several, I have a couple of fives and a five and a half, I don’t use them much, I think probably because my old woodwork master was sniffy about them (“only for rough work boy “) I was always impressed by the big “try” plane, but have never owned one, Two of the best chippies I have known said “its the kind of plane you buy when you are young, and never use !”
I must have 7-8 metal planes. All are good but if I had to choose a favorite it would be my old Stanley 4 1/2.
I really like the wider blade and heavier base. Really hugs the wood.
What Paul is saying is absolutely true… BUT he’s a master in woodworking. Hand planing and jointing long lengths is not easy. He can do that because he’s an extremely talented, proficient and experienced woodworker. But I think that using a longer and wider plane makes life much easier for a beginner. If you have just started in woodworking and you are on a budget, then go for a No.4
Thanks for the great info Paul 👍
Paul, do you have an oppinion on the #4 sweetheart vs. the regular?
Notice too, its what he started with. Its what he learned on and so he got to know that plane best. I have the same experience with the 5. Its my go to. So find a plane in that 4-5 range in length and learn to use it. Might be the only plane you'll ever need for taking rough lumber to smooth. Neither will do the job of a longer jointer plane as efficiently, but they can do the job.
My first plane was a number 5 which i restored and i learned on it so recently when i restored a number 4 it now seems that the number 5 is more comfortable to me ... I guess its because ive used it for so long now ... Great planes if you learn how to sharpen them well .... Its takes quite some time of experimentation to learn how to sharpen but over the past year and a half or 2yrs that ive been into wood working ive managed to find a way that works for me and im managing to plane 8/4 beech and maple endgrain with ease - it took a looottt of hours experimenting with sharpening though !!!
I always reach for the No 5 and I only use my No 4 for finishing.
Thanks for the video. But i believe it's not the #4 has the magic. It's your craftsmanship, experience and knowledge. I'm pretty sure it really doesn't matter 4 or 5 or 4,5 or wooden or cast iron or whatever. The beginners usually tend to think the tool itself is what matters and if they buy that razor sharp japanesse saw or high end, thick blade plane they'll master the work. When i watch your videos, i can see my own granfather who was a metal worker and worked with very few tools and bad conditions but his work was excellent. So, hands know not no4. My greetings and respects...
Agreed 100% The first plane I bought was a number 4, brand new off eBay, it cost £8.45 delivered, it was the best purchase I made in a long time, in order to get this to work (or end up being an ugly paperweight) I had to watch a lot of videos on how to set up and sharpen a plane. By the time I got it to work properly, I had a pretty good knowledge of the workings of a hand plane. I also made every mistake a novice can possibly do and a couple yet to be invented :-)
At the time I couldn't afford a nice old Stanley off eBay, so I just had to make what I had work. Since then, a family friend gave me 3 old Stanley's, probably from the 1950's to 1960's. That had been in a shed when the roof collapsed and had remained there, often underwater, for several years. You can imagine the state they were in when I got them !!! They are all working again now but I still have a lot of sanding to do to get the corrosion off the soles. The chrome is peeling off the levercap's and it's going to stay that way, strangely, it's always my first number 4 I reach for when plainning.
I have a Bailey #3 which belonged to my grandfather. It is more than 100 years old, I'm sure. It could use a new iron though I did sharpen up the existing one and took my first shavings with it a few days ago. It's more of a keepsake than anything but I'm happy I was able to get it to the point where it actually can work again. Amazingly, the sole of this plane is very flat.
No 3 are great for a lot of jobs because of their light weight but I have to use a 2 finger grip because of hand size
@@WS-ij1fu LOL, yes. It is very small and light. It seems to be just a step up from a block plane.
my original plane was a CHEAP Stanley #4, it had plastic knobs and totes. I eventually bought a good 5 1/2 which is my do almost everything Jack plane. I have a #3 for a smoothing plane and I like the smaller size. That cheap #4 got new wood totes, a new blade and got converted to a Scrub plane. One day, I might need to see about a new, good #4, but really it would mostly be superfluous with what I have otherwise.
Hi Paul, very much enjoy watching your videos. I love woodworking but I am used to using mostly power tools. However I would like to get a set of vintage planes and learn the old school way. First No 4, then 5 and later the 6. Would you please advise me which of the two manufacturers Stanley or Record made better planes in the UK? I've seen you using both in your early videos and in your later videos its mostly Stanley. Tried doing some research on Internet but there is a lot of mixed opinion and talk about the original US made Stanley planes. I am a Czech person living in Sheffield and after visiting the Kelham Island museum I would be very proud to own little bit of Sheffield heritage once I move back home. Many thanks
Just finished restoring an old Stanley 4½ which actually feels quite comfortable compared with the 4 and I don't have particularly large hands, it also seems to have considerably more mass for that bit of extra width which may be useful on a shooting board. But my favourite is still my (fairly) old Clifton No 5, but then I'm a biased Englishman.
Funny thing collecting all of these planes and finding you only use one or two (me, the Clifton and a little Lie Neilsen block plane), Stanley was obviously onto a great marketing ploy giving them all numbers, because you've just got to collect the lot!!
Now, where can I find that No 1, 2, 6...?
Paul, have you ever heard of a Spinny 4-1/2? I think it was made by Stanley or Record for one of the big 'catalogue' companies in the UK. I am just wondering if it is worth tuning up. Thanks
thanks
Hi from south ox’s Didcot
What do you think about Footprint planes?
Interesting. A 5 1/2 has always been my bread and butter plane, along with a 7 and an adjustable block. Never did meet a 4 I liked much - pretty much everybody else in the trade seems to favour them, though.
Stumpy Nubs alludes to what you're saying here, especially if you are a power tool user, which I tend to be, however I just rec'd my 1st ever smoother & it is indeed a #4 for now. I will be hankering for the #5 in all eventualities I suspect...
Bill on the Hill... :~)
@@billonthehill9984 I think that's a good plan because you can swap the irons if need be, especially if you decide to buy heavier or laminated ones - may as well go for the same width. In my case the 7 was a non-negotiable necessity because I was doing a lot of truing up table leaves early on in my career so it made sense to stick to 2 3/8". The only thing I'd say on the other hand is that the wider planes are heavier, and that can be a good thing.
Some people recommend to start with a No. 5, and I would agree: the longer sole gives you a little more confidence when you’re straightening up a piece of wood. Keep in mind that the title of the video is “Why Paul Sellers likes the #4 Plane” and not “The No. 4 should be your first plane”.
Of course there‘s no reason not to get a No. 4, especially in places where No. 4 planes are the most common ones to find and the cheapest. It is the most versatile plane, although I would probably go for a No. 5 if I could only have one. On the other hand, the No. 4 is not as heavy, so I might change my mind at some point, who knows. Weight is a factor if you’re using a tool all day, even as a hobbyist. For that reason, I’m not a huge fan of the wider irons (e.g. 4 1/2 and 5 1/2) - they don’t give you much, they just used to save craftsmen some time.
Many people recommend a low angle Jack plane as your first plane, and IF you were new to woodworking and starting from scratch, I would agree. I even wanted to get one myself. However, as the guy from Highland Woodworking pointed out, as you do more and get more tools and new specialty planes, eventually, that low angle Jack plane will primarily become just a very good, very expensive Shooting board plane .
@@ugaladh It started a few years ago, and I can’t shake the feeling that most of the people recommending the low angle jack plane were encouraged to do so by the manufacturers. But I’ll probably get one at some point.
I consider my collection more or less complete: I have two No. 4 planes, a No. 5 1/2, a No. 7 and a bunch of specialty planes, all vintage - but I’d be happy to trade in the No. 5 1/2 for a No. 5 - the wider iron isn’t doing anything for me. At the same time I’d like to try out a brand new plane, and the No. 62 has the same footprint as a No. 5. Also, there’s a toothed iron available for the Lie Nielsen No. 62 that can be used for scrubbing - I’m interested in that, too.
The low angle of the cutting iron is the feature I actually don’t really care about. If it really makes planing end grain that much easier, great - but I’ve never had a problem with that, the only obstacle I’ve experienced so far is being too lazy to keep my irons sharp at all times.
Can you do a video on how to true up a board with a 4 or perhaps exercises on increasing our proficiency? Tried to flatten with a 4 and it never comes out right. I always have to break out the 6 to right the errors.
small plane, more skill.....to joint or flat a board with a small plane you have to set a very fine cut.
Love ya
What type is your No 4 plane?
it happens to be the first one i was able to get, so i don't know any different!.
Everyone has its preferred chisel, square, plane ... this particular specimen that gets picked more than the other for no particularly objective reason. The fit, the feel, the history ... Then, no one can really go wrong by picking a 4 to a 5 1/2 as their first all around plane purchase.
I restored a wooden plane from an antique mall and all the guts are from an old stanley #4!!
Am I the only one who had a no 4 then got a no 3 but use the 3 all the time now. That’s me for the past 3 weeks since I got one
No love for 5 1/4?
I should disagree. After all fights are what drives traffic on the internet. But I can't. Stanley n.4 (like) planes are my favourite tools.
Hey what ever works for you.
Price of No 4 planes on eBay just doubles...
Nooitgedacht
I have a #4 taytools plane with a bowed blade. #4 plane blades are hard to find, quality blades anyway. Excellent plane piss poor blade.
Alternative title: Why Paul Sellers is talking about himself in the 3rd person…
is this speaking in the third person?