I have been working on a similar concept for few year when i got my self a peerless 830946 6.5. Decided to pair with two dayton PS95-8's. The reflex would be insane below 50hz tuning in a small box so i managed to settle on two passives 8" in a 11L box tuned to 40hz. Mono amp for the woofer and daytons with stereo. With DSP i can cut things below 30hz and stop the woofer from meltdown and push the max db on the whole woofer range at max amp out put to 102-105db. The band pass fot the woofer would not have worked with 25-200hz. Interesting to see how it measures vs simulations.
Nice Built! I have seen some similar builts but with a ported design. What would be advantages and disatvanteges of that? As far as i understand you would have even more and lower bass with a port.
Awesome job again, love the videos... BTW, im the guy that got you to make me custom voxel plans, turned out great and am currently making a 2nd! Thank you so much for everything and will look forward to more projects
Man, I was dreaming about doing something just like this a year ago! So stoked to watch you build it!!! Are you happy with it? I wanted to do something portable, but the power demands I calculated with a woofer just needed too many batteries and I thought it would weigh too much... great video, great build, love it!
I'm building Toid's DINAS BOOMBOX and see that his design has roughly half of the space recommended volume for the full-range drivers. Would you recommend increasing the enclosure volume for these speakers to the recommended 0.04 Cubic Feet?
I have a doubt The subwoofer is 40w But those full ranges are 30w each total 60w At lower volume won't those full ranges play louder than the sub hence low bass and higher mids and treble?
Does the size of the chambers for the full range speakers matter? Im planning on making something similar, that can hit down to 32 hz, but the chambers will be as big as you made them, and I'm wondering if that will make them sound bad? Im going to use a dsp with a crossover freq of 500 hz, so they will do the mid's and high's, and the sub will do the lows. Ill also use some isolation for the full range chambers. How big were yours, and is there anything you could would change about yours?
Hey Toid, one question, since you're using a 200w amplifier, why are you using just a 90w power supply? wont it bottleneck the amp? i used one of those with a 144w PS and it wasn't enough
@@Toid Actually I'm from India and the speakers which cost usually 10 dollars cost 30 to 40 dollars in India and gets pretty expensive...but the way u explain stuff about crossovers and other stuff helped me alot to produce good sound from cheaper speakers...love from INDIA🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
Thanks Joe! It was the first time I did it on an entire baffle. I really liked how it came out as well. Might have to do it in a bigger scale sometime.
You are just looking at the raw specifications, which aren't that useful. You really need to learn how's to simulate drivers based on their t/s specs and then how to properly measure the response with a calibrated microphone. Once you do this, you can see easily how this subwoofer can do this. It's really a beast for such a small woofer. One of the best for pure low frequency for it's size.
I'd considered building a bookshelf with these drivers, but feel weird leaving out a tweeter. I know the RS is a full-range and the frequency response looks very good. Do you find it lacks any of the 'shimmer' a nice tweeter would normally provide?
I think the Rs100 does a fine job nearfield. It will jsut start beaming sooner being a full-range of that size. A tweeter definitely adds to the experience, but I think the RS100, is adequate by itself.
Thanks man! I appreciate hearing that. Honestly, it was the backup plan. The original was using 1/2" sock that stuck out 1/4" from the front with a chamfer on it. But I am glad I went this route instead.
it would be overkill. The problem is you wouldn't really be gaining much. The box would be double the size. On top of that when you add a second sub, you wouldn't be gaining much. The subwoofer would have to be running series making it an 8 ohm load, which would half your application. So now your two subs are getting half the power of your first sub.
i mean just in case anyone wants to build this, you should give a notice that this box wont exactly be loud at all. 82/db W/m is pretty damn weak if then also driven with a small class d chip
I'm not sure why you think it's 82 decibels sensitivity. That's just incorrect. Full-range drivers are about 90 decibels sensitive. maybe you don't realize that it's set up to a 2.1 amplifier with the subwoofer receiving twice the amount of power as the full range drivers. It's plenty loud enough for a Boombox. In room, It could easily go over 100db.
Why don't you let us hear the Audio directly from the sound test / box? The alignment of the full range RS100's on the front plane is acoustically very poor. It causes massive interferences and therefore a very uneven sound in the horizontal axis - the axis humans typically act in the most. Sadly such YT-build most of the times concentrate on a nice enclosure and finish, not on the "speaker" part itself.
I just don't think this should be labeled DIY with thousands of dollars of equipment being used to cut out the pieces and create this box. To me DIY is a table saw, palm sander, jig saw, cordless screwdriver :)
You wouldn't even need all that to do this. I just use the CNC since I have it 😁 but you could easily do this with just a jig saw and drill. I'd still prefer to use at least a table saw as well.
Yet another great build, I got the chance to listen to these when I visited and the sound is amazing, loud, clear and has plenty of depth.
I have been working on a similar concept for few year when i got my self a peerless 830946 6.5. Decided to pair with two dayton PS95-8's. The reflex would be insane below 50hz tuning in a small box so i managed to settle on two passives 8" in a 11L box tuned to 40hz. Mono amp for the woofer and daytons with stereo. With DSP i can cut things below 30hz and stop the woofer from meltdown and push the max db on the whole woofer range at max amp out put to 102-105db. The band pass fot the woofer would not have worked with 25-200hz. Interesting to see how it measures vs simulations.
Nice Built! I have seen some similar builts but with a ported design. What would be advantages and disatvanteges of that? As far as i understand you would have even more and lower bass with a port.
I dig! My wife loved the stained wood pieces. She’s starting to get into wood working herself
Excellent! Not an expert by any means, but I'd always be willing to share what I know. Feel free to hit me up anytime.
Awesome job again, love the videos... BTW, im the guy that got you to make me custom voxel plans, turned out great and am currently making a 2nd! Thank you so much for everything and will look forward to more projects
Thanks man, I love hearing that. I'm so glad you're enjoying them.
Yet another reason for me to want a Shapoko!! Nice work!
Just being honest with you, I don't really like my Shapeoko. I think you'd be better off not getting a belt drive machine. Just my personal opinion.
Man, I was dreaming about doing something just like this a year ago! So stoked to watch you build it!!! Are you happy with it? I wanted to do something portable, but the power demands I calculated with a woofer just needed too many batteries and I thought it would weigh too much... great video, great build, love it!
That's awesome! Glad you like it. I have this one too my mother for her Birthday. But I was very happy with the sound being a portable unit.
Nice project! Much more portable than my DINAS boombox, which has the double subs. I just had to have all that bass!!!
I heard somewhere, it's all about that bass!
I'm building Toid's DINAS BOOMBOX and see that his design has roughly half of the space recommended volume for the full-range drivers. Would you recommend increasing the enclosure volume for these speakers to the recommended 0.04 Cubic Feet?
Could you put a set of flush mount tweeters similar to the ones in the bookshelf version, or are they unnecessary?
Loved the Dinas. SO naturaly LOVE THOSE TOO!!! 👏👏👏
I have a doubt
The subwoofer is 40w
But those full ranges are 30w each total 60w
At lower volume won't those full ranges play louder than the sub hence low bass and higher mids and treble?
How does the audio quality compare to Paul Carmody's Isetta?
What type of connectors did you use to connect the wires to the drivers?
Word!
Couldn’t see your face but I know 100% guaranteed that you had a mask on if there was any MDF dust flying around... lol
Nice Job!!!!!!
That idea of epoxy is great 👍👍👌
Does the size of the chambers for the full range speakers matter? Im planning on making something similar, that can hit down to 32 hz, but the chambers will be as big as you made them, and I'm wondering if that will make them sound bad? Im going to use a dsp with a crossover freq of 500 hz, so they will do the mid's and high's, and the sub will do the lows. Ill also use some isolation for the full range chambers. How big were yours, and is there anything you could would change about yours?
Lucky u have this driver available in ur area
Which driver?
@@Toid tangband
@@goobisoft4873 interesting. I thought pretty much everyone could get Tang Band.
@@Toid i can but its hard to get plus double price what u pay there
@@goobisoft4873 oh wow. That's high
yo toid the legend back at it again! nice work
Haha, thanks! I'm glad you liked it!
Was not sure about the front panel finish when I saw you lay down the epoxy but the end result is super stylish.
Thanks! I will say, you really want it to cure (up to a week) before you clamp it. Otherwise, the clamping pressure will affect the finish.
Hey Toid, one question, since you're using a 200w amplifier, why are you using just a 90w power supply? wont it bottleneck the amp? i used one of those with a 144w PS and it wasn't enough
Ur videos are just amazing..they have helped me alot..😁
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I love hearing that! Thank you for sharing that with me!
@@Toid Actually I'm from India and the speakers which cost usually 10 dollars cost 30 to 40 dollars in India and gets pretty expensive...but the way u explain stuff about crossovers and other stuff helped me alot to produce good sound from cheaper speakers...love from INDIA🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
I like the gloss finish
Thanks Joe! It was the first time I did it on an entire baffle. I really liked how it came out as well. Might have to do it in a bigger scale sometime.
How Loud does it get?
How u make this possible . On tang band is this woofer down to 45hz??
You are just looking at the raw specifications, which aren't that useful. You really need to learn how's to simulate drivers based on their t/s specs and then how to properly measure the response with a calibrated microphone. Once you do this, you can see easily how this subwoofer can do this. It's really a beast for such a small woofer. One of the best for pure low frequency for it's size.
передняя панель от бабушкиного шкафа. нужно было так заморачиваться😁
I'd considered building a bookshelf with these drivers, but feel weird leaving out a tweeter. I know the RS is a full-range and the frequency response looks very good. Do you find it lacks any of the 'shimmer' a nice tweeter would normally provide?
I think the Rs100 does a fine job nearfield. It will jsut start beaming sooner being a full-range of that size. A tweeter definitely adds to the experience, but I think the RS100, is adequate by itself.
Love the tools
Nice project I also like what you did with the front and the semi rebate..Cool :)
Thanks man! I appreciate hearing that. Honestly, it was the backup plan. The original was using 1/2" sock that stuck out 1/4" from the front with a chamfer on it. But I am glad I went this route instead.
What is the overall size of this?
Gorgeous finish on the front baffle, what kind of resin was that you used?
Thank you. For future reference I link those things in the description of the video. But to make things easier for you, here you go amzn.to/2QLG3hr
whats the max spl?
Would it be possible to design this with 2 tang band w5's or is that overkill?
it would be overkill. The problem is you wouldn't really be gaining much. The box would be double the size. On top of that when you add a second sub, you wouldn't be gaining much. The subwoofer would have to be running series making it an 8 ohm load, which would half your application. So now your two subs are getting half the power of your first sub.
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense. Just ordered the plans 🤙
@@kevinh9333 you're welcome. If you have any questions along the way, just ask. I'll be happy to help.
Okay, this is just cool!
Do I need to build a crossover for this?
The plans do include an optional notch filter. But that is optional. If you decided against that, then, no.
Are the plans metric or imperial, mm or inch?
imperial
Can they be made without a CnC?
Absolutely. You can easily do this without a CNC. In fact the plans, assume you don't have a CNC.
When u will show new klipsch clones?
Either next week or the week after
goddamn this video making should have quite some more views
Feel free to share it
music
track name?
Finally a sound test!
Meow, CNC machine 👍
You’re router bit is blunt ! HELLO
Please fix your CNC
i mean just in case anyone wants to build this, you should give a notice that this box wont exactly be loud at all. 82/db W/m is pretty damn weak if then also driven with a small class d chip
I'm not sure why you think it's 82 decibels sensitivity. That's just incorrect. Full-range drivers are about 90 decibels sensitive. maybe you don't realize that it's set up to a 2.1 amplifier with the subwoofer receiving twice the amount of power as the full range drivers. It's plenty loud enough for a Boombox. In room, It could easily go over 100db.
@@Toid im talkin subwoofer
@@Toid sorry for not declaring
@@besterspieler2285 I got you. But with the subwoofer receiving double the amplification, it'll still go over 100 decibels.
@@Toid yeah that'll result in premium battery life...
Why don't you let us hear the Audio directly from the sound test / box?
The alignment of the full range RS100's on the front plane is acoustically very poor.
It causes massive interferences and therefore a very uneven sound in the horizontal axis - the axis humans typically act in the most.
Sadly such YT-build most of the times concentrate on a nice enclosure and finish, not on the "speaker" part itself.
The audio at the end is the audio directly from the final project. I just took multiple video angles.
Бабущкин шифонер
Damn those tools. This ain't a DIY video hehe
good) а вот одна из моих колонок) ruclips.net/video/PHCf5dIPo3k/видео.html
I just don't think this should be labeled DIY with thousands of dollars of equipment being used to cut out the pieces and create this box. To me DIY is a table saw, palm sander, jig saw, cordless screwdriver :)
You wouldn't even need all that to do this. I just use the CNC since I have it 😁 but you could easily do this with just a jig saw and drill. I'd still prefer to use at least a table saw as well.
Looks rubbish. But sound good.