Hey Dave I used the tape fix in my most recent jaguar build video and put a link to this video and gave credit to you! Thanks for the tips and I'll certainly be trying some of these other helpful tips too in the next video. Fantastic advice!
If you've got a Jaguar with Nitrocellulose paint, I'd be really wary of using nail varnish remover anywhere near it. Some contain acetone which would strip the paint. Might be worth taking the bridge off and applying the remover away from the guitar.
Cheers mate! I've not long been getting a pau ferro jaguar and I've been having a hell of a time with my grub screws and saddles staying in place. Never had this much of a time with a guitar before.
Not really. nail varnish is often more expensive than a Mustang bridge from China. I bought one for my Squier Vintage Modified Jazzmaster. They're somewhere between €4.50 and €7.- nl.aliexpress.com/item/32820791460.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.69163c00XkHWPp&mp=1 I have one permanently in my Ali shopping cart to help people out with a link. This one's ± €6.50 shipping included. Besides, I hate locking adjustable parts. I have no problems with grub screws. I use watchmaker's Allen screwdrivers and make sure that each saddle is balanced, so that there is always pressure on BOTH grub screws. If there's pressure, they won't turn loose.
Excellent brand with excellent stuff. I've put their String Savers on the American Standard bridge of my Fender De Luxe Strat Plus (with the Red, Silver and Blue Fender Lace Sensors) and in an 1990s Epiphone Les Paul Standard bridge and in a 1978 Gibson The Paul bridge, which had really bad eaten away saddles and felt like a saw.
With respect, wrapping the bridge posts with tape is a really bad idea. The bridge was designed to rock with trem use. And does so perfectly well when set up properly. Sufficient string downforce on the saddles is the key to that, so that string-saddle friction is high. That is achieved by a combination of string break angle (achieved by sufficient bridge height, often using a tapered neck shim) and/or string gauge (tension). Then the bridge will rock consistently with trem use, and remain stable at other times.
Gday Dave Simpson . I just got an old MIJ fender Jag recently. Not sure what I'm doing with setup. What guage strings do you use on your Jag? How far screwed in are your 'grub screws'? Why exactly do you varnish them in place? Is there another way of adjusting string height besides the grubs? Cheers mate, Tom
Hi Dave I’ve just pick up a classic vibe jag and it got the mustang style bridge , it’s strung with 10,s and I’m having trouble with keeping it in tune and the i can only get the hi E to intonate, I’ve tried shimming the neck with no effect and wrapped the posts in gaffer tape as recommended, the A string it flat and the rest are sharp😩 Any ideas how to sort it ?? Cheers dude
FYI, Your bridge is waaaay too low because the neck isn’t shimmed correctly, if at all. Increasing it will increase string tension dramatically. ------ The only JM/Jag problem is: people haven’t researched how to set up the stock bridges for if they did not a single aftermarket “improvement” would “need” to exist as they are completely unnecessary. Mine are all stock, set up right and I have no rattles, no strings popping, no problems whatsoever. 1. Shim the neck pocket- rear only (May take a few times to get it right). 2. Raise saddles high, to near maximum. 3. Adjust action height only with 2 bridge posts. No tape, glue, varnish, or aftermarket parts required. It’s the most stable bridge and vibrato when set up correctly. Enjoy.
#2 was the answer I’ve been looking for. I knew to follow the radius of the neck, but I had no idea where to start. Raising the saddles high but still maintaining the radius and then adjusting the string height to the neck by using the two outer posts makes sense to me. Cheers 🍻
Anybody know what Allen wrenches are needed for squire jag. Having my first bridge crisis... no wrenches came with it, demo...thx. Love the sound, bridge, not so much now...
NOTE: By making the bridge stationary, now you are grinding your saddles hard. So, wither replace those with GraphTech saddles, or buy a roller bridge. The tape is killing sustain. I went with the Schaller roller because it has amazing adjustability.
I concur, I used two applications of shrink fit tube on my Bigsby tele. It was really stretched and tight and solid. Like hard plastic. It killed my sustain. Still trying find a solution....
@@chimpsticks1 On my Ultra Jazzmaster, and the American Pro model, there are plastic bushings in the post holes. The bridge can still rock a bit, but it always gets recentered. reverb.com/item/26488792-fender-american-professional-jaguar-jazzmaster-bridge-stabilizer-thimble-sleeves-7710508000
yeah good tip with the nail varnish I to put a mustang bridge in then went back to the stock bridge on my 2014 squire jag angled the saddles where I was good even with heavy playing[which I don't really do] the strings don't pop out and the grub screws I used plummers tape I didn't mess with the poles all sounds very good as for the behind bridge I too like the noise - as always dave good post cheers mate T.I.Ezy friend!!!
Might sound like a stupid question but total beginner here, the top little screws ( group or groub screw?) are somewhat loose and making rattling notice, can I just thigh them up, or does that changes something like tune or hight of the string??
I'm confused, why only tape on one of the posts rather than both. Or were you just showing one side as an example of how it is done? I just bought a Squire Jazzmaster which is similar. So far I'm loving it. The only issues so far are the bridge dropping (which require blue locktite on the threaded inserts, and strings popping out of the saddles (which requires heavier strings and perhaps a neck shim). Odd how a new guitar would have these issues, but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.
I love the stock neck. Its actually one of the best I've ever played. The only things i have changed apart from the refin is the scratch plate and volume pot when the original died. :)
Hi Dave, please help me I bought a squier jaguar, and with the stock bridge, some frets aren't intonated too well, they're not sharp or flat, but some aren't so precise, even after a good set up, what can I do? Changing the bridge will help me? Or is the guitar faulty?
File the nut slots carefully so that the strings can sit in a proper way . Much better tone and intonation . You'll have to do this anyway , if you hear a sitar like tone or not .
Do you still recommend 11 gauge strings? I heard the reason to get the heavier gauges is because they won't pop out of the saddles and the scale length, but would fixing the bridge like this mean you can put lower gauges on it?
+Generation Films I use 10s on mine with no problems so i would say you'll be fine to put lower gauges on a jag after this fix. The issue with big strings on a jag is they sit higher on the saddles which means there more likely to pop off. Lighter strings sit lower so are less likely to pop out. Thank you for watching. :)
I just bought the Squier Classic Vibe '70s Jaguar but I have a problem. Always when I set the action the bridge sinks down after like an hour of playing making the b and the high e string unplayable. Is there any fix for this? Also I need to go to the store and pick another one because this one came with a broken pickup. But just in case it happens again and you know how to fix this please tell me. Thanks
If tuning is flat after using the trem, increase the trem’s spring tension. If it’s sharp, decrease the tension. Jaguar bridges are fine… the problem is Squire manufacturing sucks. If you have a proper Jaguar bridge then you’ll have zero problems with grub screws.
I bought a Squier Jaguar the other day and it played pretty well for a little bit but then I started getting fret buzz so I changed the strings on it but it still does it and it only got worse after I played it with the newer strings. What could be the cause of this ?
It could be the grub screws coming loose in the saddles and the strings falling onto the frets. As you play they vibrate and slowly turn. Reset them and put some clear nail varnish in the holes. :)
I did drool about buying a Jazzmaster...they do look uber cool... but when I did a little research, these issues were mentioned. Someone said that the bridge needs to be higher so that you have a better angle for the strings when they go over the bridge saddles...therefore stopping them popping out all the time. Also, to achieve this you may need to put a 'shim' under the neck/ body joint to get this. Then you'll have to raise the pickups...such a lot of work. Additionally these guitars work better with slightly thicker strings...a 10 at least as the high E. So, I thought, " as cool as these are, I don't want a battle on my hands everytime I play it".Yes it's a great idea but the problems outweigh the pluses...I'll get the Yamaha Pacifica with similar pickups instead. Eventually I got a Yamaha Pacifica 612V in bright orange...much better all round...and it looks seriously cool. So, do your research...prevents tears later on
Thicker strings do help some of the issues with these style guitars. Heavier gauge strings, neck pocket shim, thread lock fluid and tightening the tremolo spring tension and these guitars play great. To bad the factory never tells the buyer this information.
It's really not that much work. It'd probably pay to have the guitar set up by someone that knows what they're doing and simultaneously know what your own needs of the guitar are. The same would go for any guitar unless you're just starting out in which case you'd still benefit from a proper set up as it'll make the guitar easier to play, intonate better etc.
@@davidcudlip6587 It wouldn’t be too hard for Fender to say ‘all of our classic guitars were designed for, and originally shipped with, heavy gauge strings like .013 - .056” and a wound 3rd. For modern light gauge strings, the following adjustments are necessary, etc.’. But I never heard that from Fender? Same factor applies to vintage Tele bridges, Strat staggered pickups - designed for a wound 3rd and heavy strings.
@@monzajunior7337 Staggered pole pieces were also designed for tighter neck radiuses. 7.25" was common on Fender early years. The low break angle of Jazzmasters and Jaguar bridges and tremolo tailpieces just work better with heavy gauge strings. It's more a physics issue and tuning issue. A couple companies make better aftermarket bridges because of this. Fender ships the guitar with 10's, and leaves it up to the buyer to do the tweaking. As do most manufacturers.
i know this is seven years old, but Dave, have you in the meanwhile tossed it or tried to shim the neck and setup the bridge top high with some 12's on it? Mine does not rattle with that setup and the strings keep in the slots plus it stays in tune even with heavy abuse of the wiggle stick. ;)
@@thesuccessfulbarber Really? The video was full of misinformation by someone who knows very little to nothing about how a Jazzmaster/Jaguar rocking tremolo works.
I see a huge potential problem by applying gaffers tape to the bridge posts. That's because Fender runs a grounding wire from the volume/tone pots to one of the bridge thimble. When the bridge is placed into the thimble, it connect the bridge to ground thus grounding the bridge, strings, tremolo tail piece, etc. Presumably the top edge of the cup-shaped thimble insert may still contact the bridge and thus become a ground contact -- that is if the bridge is firmly pushed into the insert and adjusted all the way down for the lowest possible action. But it will lose contact if the bridge action is adjusted upwards even just a little and looses contact with the top edge of the bridge insert. No ground = more noise. As an alternative to gaffers tape, you could use copper tape (with conductive adhesive) instead which would provide the same function bridge post while maintaining the ground contact - - in fact the copper tape would significantly increase the surface area of the ground connecting. BTW, I see this as a long standing design flaw that could be easily be corrected by running the ground wire to the base plate of the tremolo instead of the bridge.
so even after you put gaf tape on it, how does that affect using your tremolo? if it's designed to wiggle and the tape is preventing that, is that going to put my guitar out of tune when using the tremolo? also, if that tape is holding it that snuggly, will i not be able to adjust my action? i get a fair amount of fret buzz on my squier jag (i have a mustang bridge)
Having the tape makes the tuning stability better than it would be without. The jag bridge would never return to its original position. You can still adjust your action with he saddle grub screws. :)
Matt Fedczuk are you talking about being able to raise the entire bridge on either side with the post screws? If so, yes, you'll still be able to use these with the tape on.
I still have them in there but there screwed up all the way. I don't use those screws to alter the height of the bridge. I just use the grub screws in the saddles. :)
Sooo: 7ender/Squier upgraded the jag with those mustang bridges - what's that thing about the loose fit then?! Honestly, I just don't get it. It causes such a crappy intonation, really fun stealing. @Dave Simpson thanks for the advice!
The bridge was designed to float. The oversized cup shaped insert allows the bridge to rock back and forth as bridge when the tremolo is used. The idea was to reduce the friction of the strings moving back and forth over the saddles and thus help keep the guitar in tune when the Tremolo is used - a notorious problem suffered by the Stratocaster. But, the rocking design seems to have created it's own problems -- most notably is the bridge will buzz and intonation issues. Additionally the jazzmaster has an issued which is largely caused by a shallow string break angle over the bridge which provides insufficient downward string pressure on the bridge. Combine this with a bridge that uses saddles made with very shallow string groves and you get strings jumping out the saddle when plucked or strummed hard. The Mustang bridge is very similar to the jazzmaster/jaguar bridge but with different saddles. Those saddles have a deeper string slot and helps keep the string in place on the saddle. Since the Mustang bridge is cheap and a drop in replacement, many jazzmaster/jaguar owners quickly swap the original bridge for the mustang bridge -- so many in fact that Fender has recognized that fact and is now using them as standard on some models.
Thanks for linking me to this video! So I’ve pretty much done all of this already. My issue with the bridge is I cannot set it up without the strings touching the screws. Have any experience with this or any tips to solve it?
Best advice - ignore this video and go to www.premierguitar.com/articles/25516-diy-how-to-set-up-jazzmasters-jaguars It's by far the best bullshit free article on the subject and helped me get my Jag set up sorted out quickly and relatively painlessly. I now have a low action, consistently good tuning and intonation even with regular tremolo use on my AVRI 65 Jaguar
@@tonykeyworth3522 Man, i just read your link advice and it's full of bullsh*t. He starts saying that it's not a 'problematic design', it's just people not reading the setup manual, and then proceeds to recommend all the same improvements that are discussed all over the net, clearly beeing that the design is problematic. I'm gonna search for that manual to see how to proper adjust this shitt* designed guitar. Cheers 🍻
@@dinamoarg Suit yourself. I know from personal experience if you read the article and follow the recommendations you will get good results. My own jaguar has a one degree shim in the neck pocket and I am using the standard bridge and 11s with no intonation or tuning issues and the strings can be bent without popping off the saddles. Jaguar is the same as any guitar it needs to be properly set up, once that's done no problems.
@@tonykeyworth3522 That's ok, but it still is a bad design. No other guitar, even designed years before, has to be used with specific type of strings, has to be shimmed, has to be strummed lightly enough so the strings don't jump out (there's no problem with bending), has a bridge that tilts back and forth. I definitely don't understand why they never fixed those issues.
The Jaguar is a SHORT SCALE guitar. That means that your tension is lower with ordinary .009 or .010 strings. You should put .011s on it. Then it will pull the curve back into that neck (if the truss rod is not too tight of course, so loosen it). It is possible that the nut slot was filed too deeply. Then you could do the baking soda and superglue trick. ruclips.net/video/slCMkvEfK_U/видео.html
@@thedavesimpson No, YOU want to put it on the screws! I don't mess with my wife's cosmetics. When you're done, I'll say: "It wasn't me! It was Dave! He insisted!"
Not sure. As long as your happy with the height it should be fine, and with super glue it shouldn't move but you might struggle if you ever want to change anything. Try finding some super glue remover just incase you ever fancy a change. :)
+Uncle Squid Kid The biggest difference is scale lenght, jaguar has shorter scale lenght than most other fender guitars, the controls and pups are obvious difference. The body shape is slightly different as well.
+pomaranc747 True ... even shorter than the standard Gibson ... and i would add the PUs to the main differences ... Jazzmaster PUs are quite unique as Jag PUs are more like Strat PUs + a shielding ...
You guitar, your choice. But these guitar need to have a a higher break angle at the bridge. .Leo had no problems with shimming the neck pocket if you wanted more break angle . He also was trying to copy the string action of arch top jazz guitars that he was selling these offset solid body guitars for that market. Failed at selling them to jazzers, but the surf rockers took notice. The reason people have problems with strings popping off the saddles is not enough string tension from having to flat a break angle. Half the problems with Jazzmaster and Jaguars, (And Bass VI's) is to low of a bridge and to flat string break angles. And the rocking bridge will work if the tension is forced down more on the bridge. I like the nail polish trick on the screw threads. Cheaper then Loctite 242 Blue.
well my vm jaguar bridge been driving me mad so i got some Hosco stainless saddles now sounds far better with no bussing like a sitar tone is better to yep tape round legs 👌now in love my jag
Maybe I’m missing something but I don’t understand how it could possibly stay in tune with the bridge moving around. If it tips forward the string would shorten. If it tips back the string would lengthen. That said it is probably not enough to notice by most ears.
the bridge is sposed to float its a floating bridge the movement helps the smoove bend in whamy action when it moves out of tune to much you just pull it back or foward with your fingers its part of owning this type of off set guitar that makes it good for some players but not all and why i dont recommend it to beginner's if you are going to sink the floating bridge just get a strat the bend is a bit sharper bending and with the block abt strapt down but the bridge dont move in transition with the bridge
You don't know the Jazzmaster bridge is constructed to "wiggle" back and forth if using the trem? Get a buzz stop. It increases the angle of the strings and it stops the ringing of the strings behind the bridge.
Totally get where ya coming from and my sister I'ds a nail tech so I can get all the clear varnish for free notice cant beat free stuff I am a Yorkshire man but all this shimming talk baffles me and no stew mac type shims just small brass and its alll a ming trip and if I rever find a company willing to give credit to injured war vets and I get one just wondering do I need to shim pre nail varnish trick if you get what I mean I'm not best fighter after an IED in ireland in early 90s
Oh, a technical video... that reminds me of something I wanted to ask you for quite a while. I guess you know an awful lot about Strats, so what's the benefit of having the Vibrato blocked off with some piece of wood or anything instead of simply not using it? I think this method is popular because of Eric Clapton I just never could make any sense out of it.
+DerEchteBold With floating trem if you change string tension of one string (tuning to drop D, string break etc...) all other strings will go out of tune. Also when you bend the bridge will move so you need to bend more, and you can move the trem a bit with your palm. That's all I could think of, never owned strat in my life :D
+pomaranc747 Thanks, but when you don't use a vintage vibrato system it will not be set up floating, that's very rarely the case anyways. Usually it will be well-set, allowing only to lower the pitch. I think 'Rob Broome' was on point with the sustain idea, the question is - is it technically relevant or just psychologically.
1). Does that duct tape deaden the sound of the guitar by interfering with the transmission of the string vibration to the guitar body and 2). Why not just take the saddles to a machinist who will get a nice piece of bell brass stock round at the right diameter and fabricate new ones with a drill press and cut one simple and deep groove for the strings at the right diameters of the strings and replace the stock ones with newly machined brass ones with the same kind of string groove as the Mustang bridge...?
Does anyone know if the neck of a jaguar cos seems to be the question no one will answer does it need a shim how thick do I need as no stew mac ones this is only info I need and only one jag owners wont share what's the story I'm not asking people for ya credit card number just shim yes or no if yes how thick done all I need am 4 days in 15 channels no answer
@@thedavesimpson much appreciated cos I heard all sorts ya need stew mac shim some say use a cornflakes box but I'm a wheetos man so would that work lol nad only shims I can find on amazon are the thin brass ones which I could see over time damaging wood so was thinking wheetoes box but best just to se what comes then asses bridge if cant get action godd enough maybe think of shimming shame a uk company hasnt started doing the wooden stew mac shims just ex military so need a clean to do list and then I can crack it and get a well set up instrument cos a jags my dream instrument
@@thedavesimpson yay just found out I got my grant for my jaguar from a charity who deals with vets with ptsd iv got 500 to spend imma get a 3 tone burst jag that's around 380ish leaves me 120ish for bits what would you spend it on mastere bridge or new tuners or should I just go way I'm thinking tuners iv heard are ok so might just buy it pay for bone nut and a setup big breakfast while I wait obvs and any change some strings and a nice sexy brown strap or would you use it for bridge or a mod just know it's my guitar for life so want it to be as good as it can be especially given the way I got it through a kind gesture to say thank you for what they saw as my service but what I saw as a job and a duty to my friends so fact there doing it is so cool so if you ever get chance support music in mind they work with everyone not just vets to help give people music to help heal mental issues good cause man
@@thedavesimpson also wondering what ya think of the pick ups I'm thinking of putting in in time when I'm ready for a tinker I'm thinking. In the Neck:: Di marzio chopper dp 184 Bridge::di marzio fast track2 dp182 what you think good match sounded awesome to my ear and minimal routing cos dont want to do the whole humbucker jagstang thing want my own rocking jag not just a full kurt clone although I do want to be able to get that flavour
You can't adjust the actual height of the individual saddles on the mustang bridge. It's still way better, but if you're gonna swap it out there are better options.
Mustang bridge changes the tone. Nothing wrong with that if you like it, but some folks might prefer the tone you get with the original Jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge. Yes it needs some attention to make it work flawlessly, but worth the effort if you dig the sounds it delivers.
Dieser Spaßvogel hat nicht begriffen warum das so "wackeln" soll! Unten aus den beiden Bolzen kommen normal noch dünne Inbusschrauben heraus, mit denen die Brücke in der Höhe verstellbar sind. Das Spiel wird benötigt um die Tremolobewegung auszugleichen, weil es ja keine Rollenbrücke ist. Der Mann hat die (schlechte) Konstruktion nicht verstanden!!
Another one of these guys... That bridge is designed to move. Fender is not stupid, this is not an oversight. Get this, the string is not supposed to slide over the bridge when the trem is used, instead the bridge moves! I know, mind blown. Just needs setup with proper gauge strings and neck pitch to hold strong tension.
@@thedavesimpson of course it works, but bridges work that way in thousands of other solid body guitars with trems, just happens this model was designed different and makes you ask the question why and how.
Видеоклипы
Hey Dave I used the tape fix in my most recent jaguar build video and put a link to this video and gave credit to you! Thanks for the tips and I'll certainly be trying some of these other helpful tips too in the next video. Fantastic advice!
:) Thank you very much. :)
If you've got a Jaguar with Nitrocellulose paint, I'd be really wary of using nail varnish remover anywhere near it. Some contain acetone which would strip the paint. Might be worth taking the bridge off and applying the remover away from the guitar.
For the nail polish not an issue but a good point for the remover yes.
I purposely relicd mine
Cheers mate! I've not long been getting a pau ferro jaguar and I've been having a hell of a time with my grub screws and saddles staying in place. Never had this much of a time with a guitar before.
Get the staytrem! Don’t even hesitate
Thanks Dave you've saved me a lot of head scratching...good man
My cr120h just arrived and im realy happy with it :D thank you for introducing me to the greatest amp ever ;)
greetings Phil :D
+hosenpupsi123 Thats awesome to hear and even more awesome that you love it. It was my pleasure to introduce you two. :)
Love it Dave, your the money saving man!!! 🤘😎🤘
+smiley42 :)
Not really. nail varnish is often more expensive than a Mustang bridge from China. I bought one for my Squier Vintage Modified Jazzmaster. They're somewhere between €4.50 and €7.-
nl.aliexpress.com/item/32820791460.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.69163c00XkHWPp&mp=1
I have one permanently in my Ali shopping cart to help people out with a link.
This one's ± €6.50 shipping included.
Besides, I hate locking adjustable parts. I have no problems with grub screws. I use watchmaker's Allen screwdrivers and make sure that each saddle is balanced, so that there is always pressure on BOTH grub screws. If there's pressure, they won't turn loose.
Great little video. Makes this bit more clear
Thank you very much. : )
I've got graph tech saddles on my jag.
bloody love them.
They take some of the top end off, but I like it that way.
Excellent brand with excellent stuff. I've put their String Savers on the American Standard bridge of my Fender De Luxe Strat Plus (with the Red, Silver and Blue Fender Lace Sensors) and in an 1990s Epiphone Les Paul Standard bridge and in a 1978 Gibson The Paul bridge, which had really bad eaten away saddles and felt like a saw.
Best video ever on a jag DIY
Thank you. : )
Thank you so much! You saved my life
Thank you for watching and happy you found the vid helpful. :)
Great idea Dave
Ps your craziness cracks me up every time!!! 😂😎
+smiley42 Haha. Thanks you. :)
Thanks man this helped a lot
With respect, wrapping the bridge posts with tape is a really bad idea. The bridge was designed to rock with trem use. And does so perfectly well when set up properly. Sufficient string downforce on the saddles is the key to that, so that string-saddle friction is high. That is achieved by a combination of string break angle (achieved by sufficient bridge height, often using a tapered neck shim) and/or string gauge (tension). Then the bridge will rock consistently with trem use, and remain stable at other times.
thanks for this video! I'm going back to the jaguar bridge.
Thank you for watching. :)
Thanks!! Very helpful!!
Gday Dave Simpson . I just got an old MIJ fender Jag recently. Not sure what I'm doing with setup. What guage strings do you use on your Jag? How far screwed in are your 'grub screws'? Why exactly do you varnish them in place? Is there another way of adjusting string height besides the grubs? Cheers mate, Tom
Hi Dave I’ve just pick up a classic vibe jag and it got the mustang style bridge , it’s strung with 10,s and I’m having trouble with keeping it in tune and the i can only get the hi E to intonate, I’ve tried shimming the neck with no effect and wrapped the posts in gaffer tape as recommended, the A string it flat and the rest are sharp😩
Any ideas how to sort it ??
Cheers dude
Thanks man, good video and informative, I will apply to my Jazzmaster.
Thank you for watching. : )
FYI,
Your bridge is waaaay too low because the neck isn’t shimmed correctly, if at all. Increasing it will increase string tension dramatically.
------
The only JM/Jag problem is: people haven’t researched how to set up the stock bridges for if they did not a single aftermarket “improvement” would “need” to exist as they are completely unnecessary. Mine are all stock, set up right and I have no rattles, no strings popping, no problems whatsoever.
1. Shim the neck pocket- rear only (May take a few times to get it right).
2. Raise saddles high, to near maximum.
3. Adjust action height only with 2 bridge posts.
No tape, glue, varnish, or aftermarket parts required. It’s the most stable bridge and vibrato when set up correctly.
Enjoy.
#2 was the answer I’ve been looking for. I knew to follow the radius of the neck, but I had no idea where to start. Raising the saddles high but still maintaining the radius and then adjusting the string height to the neck by using the two outer posts makes sense to me. Cheers 🍻
@@fuzzblender
No problem
Nice vid ... good DIY!
Thanks a lot!
+Matze R Thank you very much and thanks for watching. :)
Your break angle over the bridge is still to flat. You need a neck tilt back shim so you can raise your bridge.
Most or all offsets need a shim.
Anybody know what Allen wrenches are needed for squire jag. Having my first bridge crisis... no wrenches came with it, demo...thx. Love the sound, bridge, not so much now...
thank you! I used my band aid to fix it..
NOTE: By making the bridge stationary, now you are grinding your saddles hard. So, wither replace those with GraphTech saddles, or buy a roller bridge. The tape is killing sustain. I went with the Schaller roller because it has amazing adjustability.
I concur, I used two applications of shrink fit tube on my Bigsby tele. It was really stretched and tight and solid. Like hard plastic. It killed my sustain.
Still trying find a solution....
I doubt it. The break angle is so slight on a Jaguar that it probably wont make much of a difference.
@@chimpsticks1 On my Ultra Jazzmaster, and the American Pro model, there are plastic bushings in the post holes. The bridge can still rock a bit, but it always gets recentered.
reverb.com/item/26488792-fender-american-professional-jaguar-jazzmaster-bridge-stabilizer-thimble-sleeves-7710508000
yeah good tip with the nail varnish I to put a mustang bridge in then went back to the stock bridge on my 2014 squire jag angled the saddles where I was good even with heavy playing[which I don't really do] the strings don't pop out and the grub screws I used plummers tape I didn't mess with the poles all sounds very good as for the behind bridge I too like the noise - as always dave good post cheers mate T.I.Ezy friend!!!
:) Thank you very much. :)
Might sound like a stupid question but total beginner here, the top little screws ( group or groub screw?) are somewhat loose and making rattling notice, can I just thigh them up, or does that changes something like tune or hight of the string??
You should choose colored nail varnish to see where it sits on the threads. Thanks from Canada.
Nice one Dave lad
Top tips 👍🏻
Beard is looking good Dave!
+Let's Roll Cheerslys. :)
Are the tremolo is readily made floating or we ourself make it float.
I'm confused, why only tape on one of the posts rather than both. Or were you just showing one side as an example of how it is done? I just bought a Squire Jazzmaster which is similar. So far I'm loving it. The only issues so far are the bridge dropping (which require blue locktite on the threaded inserts, and strings popping out of the saddles (which requires heavier strings and perhaps a neck shim). Odd how a new guitar would have these issues, but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.
Good tips Dave. I got a Porsche not a Jag 🚗
+Simon Bradbury
... get a Mustang (;-))
+Simon Bradbury Thanks very much. Haha. :)
A lot of people don’t understand that the bridge is supposed to rock. That is the way it is designed.
I understand it. Doesn’t mean I want it too. :)
Dave, Do you like the stock neck on these Squier Jaguars? or did you end up upgrading the neck? Thanks, Take care
I love the stock neck. Its actually one of the best I've ever played. The only things i have changed apart from the refin is the scratch plate and volume pot when the original died. :)
Hi Dave, please help me
I bought a squier jaguar, and with the stock bridge, some frets aren't intonated too well, they're not sharp or flat, but some aren't so precise, even after a good set up, what can I do? Changing the bridge will help me? Or is the guitar faulty?
Could be faulty. I would get it checked out. :)
File the nut slots carefully so that the strings can sit in a proper way . Much better tone and intonation . You'll have to do this anyway , if you hear a sitar like tone or not .
Jag you were
Do you still recommend 11 gauge strings? I heard the reason to get the heavier gauges is because they won't pop out of the saddles and the scale length, but would fixing the bridge like this mean you can put lower gauges on it?
+Generation Films I use 10s on mine with no problems so i would say you'll be fine to put lower gauges on a jag after this fix. The issue with big strings on a jag is they sit higher on the saddles which means there more likely to pop off. Lighter strings sit lower so are less likely to pop out. Thank you for watching. :)
***** Thanks for the advice and the great video!
Can you do this with the tune-o-matic bridge on the Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster?
I'm not sure. Sorry.
I just bought the Squier Classic Vibe '70s Jaguar but I have a problem. Always when I set the action the bridge sinks down after like an hour of playing making the b and the high e string unplayable. Is there any fix for this? Also I need to go to the store and pick another one because this one came with a broken pickup. But just in case it happens again and you know how to fix this please tell me. Thanks
Put some Loctite Threadlocker on the screws on the posts 👍
You can take the outer cover from an electrical cable and use it as a sleave over the bridge posts
Thats a good idea. Thank you. :)
If tuning is flat after using the trem, increase the trem’s spring tension. If it’s sharp, decrease the tension. Jaguar bridges are fine… the problem is Squire manufacturing sucks. If you have a proper Jaguar bridge then you’ll have zero problems with grub screws.
thanks a lot mate !!!
+Alessio Pirolo Thank you for watching. :)
I bought a Squier Jaguar the other day and it played pretty well for a little bit but then I started getting fret buzz so I changed the strings on it but it still does it and it only got worse after I played it with the newer strings. What could be the cause of this ?
It could be the grub screws coming loose in the saddles and the strings falling onto the frets. As you play they vibrate and slowly turn. Reset them and put some clear nail varnish in the holes. :)
Dave Simpson Alrighty thanks I'll give it a try 👍
I did drool about buying a Jazzmaster...they do look uber cool... but when I did a little research, these issues were mentioned. Someone said that the bridge needs to be higher so that you have a better angle for the strings when they go over the bridge saddles...therefore stopping them popping out all the time. Also, to achieve this you may need to put a 'shim' under the neck/ body joint to get this. Then you'll have to raise the pickups...such a lot of work.
Additionally these guitars work better with slightly thicker strings...a 10 at least as the high E.
So, I thought, " as cool as these are, I don't want a battle on my hands everytime I play it".Yes it's a great idea but the problems outweigh the pluses...I'll get the Yamaha Pacifica with similar pickups instead.
Eventually I got a Yamaha Pacifica 612V in bright orange...much better all round...and it looks seriously cool.
So, do your research...prevents tears later on
Thicker strings do help some of the issues with these style guitars. Heavier gauge strings, neck pocket shim, thread lock fluid and tightening the tremolo spring tension and these guitars play great. To bad the factory never tells the buyer this information.
It's really not that much work. It'd probably pay to have the guitar set up by someone that knows what they're doing and simultaneously know what your own needs of the guitar are. The same would go for any guitar unless you're just starting out in which case you'd still benefit from a proper set up as it'll make the guitar easier to play, intonate better etc.
@@davidcudlip6587 It wouldn’t be too hard for Fender to say ‘all of our classic guitars were designed for, and originally shipped with, heavy gauge strings like .013 - .056” and a wound 3rd. For modern light gauge strings, the following adjustments are necessary, etc.’. But I never heard that from Fender? Same factor applies to vintage Tele bridges, Strat staggered pickups - designed for a wound 3rd and heavy strings.
@@monzajunior7337 Staggered pole pieces were also designed for tighter neck radiuses. 7.25" was common on Fender early years. The low break angle of Jazzmasters and Jaguar bridges and tremolo tailpieces just work better with heavy gauge strings. It's more a physics issue and tuning issue. A couple companies make better aftermarket bridges because of this. Fender ships the guitar with 10's, and leaves it up to the buyer to do the tweaking. As do most manufacturers.
@@davidcudlip6587 - all true!
i know this is seven years old, but Dave, have you in the meanwhile tossed it or tried to shim the neck and setup the bridge top high with some 12's on it? Mine does not rattle with that setup and the strings keep in the slots plus it stays in tune even with heavy abuse of the wiggle stick. ;)
I haven’t no. This worked and I don’t feel the need to change it. Plus gauge 12s is a huge no for me. :)
great.. well explained by someone who obviously knows this guitar. thanks
Thank you. : )
LOL! love the sarcasm
@@modestoney1577none at all
@@thesuccessfulbarber Really? The video was full of misinformation by someone who knows very little to nothing about how a Jazzmaster/Jaguar rocking tremolo works.
@@modestoney1577 send me the link to your better video
I see a huge potential problem by applying gaffers tape to the bridge posts. That's because Fender runs a grounding wire from the volume/tone pots to one of the bridge thimble. When the bridge is placed into the thimble, it connect the bridge to ground thus grounding the bridge, strings, tremolo tail piece, etc.
Presumably the top edge of the cup-shaped thimble insert may still contact the bridge and thus become a ground contact -- that is if the bridge is firmly pushed into the insert and adjusted all the way down for the lowest possible action. But it will lose contact if the bridge action is adjusted upwards even just a little and looses contact with the top edge of the bridge insert. No ground = more noise.
As an alternative to gaffers tape, you could use copper tape (with conductive adhesive) instead which would provide the same function bridge post while maintaining the ground contact - - in fact the copper tape would significantly increase the surface area of the ground connecting.
BTW, I see this as a long standing design flaw that could be easily be corrected by running the ground wire to the base plate of the tremolo instead of the bridge.
Would you get this guitar for playing punk/alternative rock? Or would I be better off buying a strat?
Maybe not punk as i don't think the bridge would handle the beating but alternative rock it'll be great. :)
Of course it'd be good for punk. Kurt Cobain was famous for using a jaguar
so even after you put gaf tape on it, how does that affect using your tremolo? if it's designed to wiggle and the tape is preventing that, is that going to put my guitar out of tune when using the tremolo? also, if that tape is holding it that snuggly, will i not be able to adjust my action? i get a fair amount of fret buzz on my squier jag (i have a mustang bridge)
Having the tape makes the tuning stability better than it would be without. The jag bridge would never return to its original position. You can still adjust your action with he saddle grub screws. :)
sure thing. so should I just switch back to the jag bridge? because the action of the mustang bridge can't be changed with tape on it?
Matt Fedczuk are you talking about being able to raise the entire bridge on either side with the post screws? If so, yes, you'll still be able to use these with the tape on.
Hey Dave. Need some help just bought mustang bridge but one if the 2 screws us all the way in. Looks like you removed these?
I still have them in there but there screwed up all the way. I don't use those screws to alter the height of the bridge. I just use the grub screws in the saddles. :)
@@thedavesimpson how bizarre just saw your vid this morn with the jag and was pondering picking you brains.
Thanks!!!
what about putting the nail varnish actually in between the saddles and the strings so they don't pop out? have you try it?
Sooo: 7ender/Squier upgraded the jag with those mustang bridges - what's that thing about the loose fit then?! Honestly, I just don't get it. It causes such a crappy intonation, really fun stealing.
@Dave Simpson thanks for the advice!
The bridge was designed to float. The oversized cup shaped insert allows the bridge to rock back and forth as bridge when the tremolo is used. The idea was to reduce the friction of the strings moving back and forth over the saddles and thus help keep the guitar in tune when the Tremolo is used - a notorious problem suffered by the Stratocaster. But, the rocking design seems to have created it's own problems -- most notably is the bridge will buzz and intonation issues.
Additionally the jazzmaster has an issued which is largely caused by a shallow string break angle over the bridge which provides insufficient downward string pressure on the bridge. Combine this with a bridge that uses saddles made with very shallow string groves and you get strings jumping out the saddle when plucked or strummed hard.
The Mustang bridge is very similar to the jazzmaster/jaguar bridge but with different saddles. Those saddles have a deeper string slot and helps keep the string in place on the saddle. Since the Mustang bridge is cheap and a drop in replacement, many jazzmaster/jaguar owners quickly swap the original bridge for the mustang bridge -- so many in fact that Fender has recognized that fact and is now using them as standard on some models.
You need to shim the neck to get more break angle so it doesn’t slip when it rocks back and forth.
Nice fix but I have a Question : Can you still use a Tremolo without causing Damage ?
Indeedy you can. :)
Thanks for linking me to this video! So I’ve pretty much done all of this already. My issue with the bridge is I cannot set it up without the strings touching the screws. Have any experience with this or any tips to solve it?
How do you mean strings touching the screws? Do you mean the little grub screws on the bridge?
Best advice - ignore this video and go to www.premierguitar.com/articles/25516-diy-how-to-set-up-jazzmasters-jaguars
It's by far the best bullshit free article on the subject and helped me get my Jag set up sorted out quickly and relatively painlessly. I now have a low action, consistently good tuning and intonation even with regular tremolo use on my AVRI 65 Jaguar
@@tonykeyworth3522 Man, i just read your link advice and it's full of bullsh*t. He starts saying that it's not a 'problematic design', it's just people not reading the setup manual, and then proceeds to recommend all the same improvements that are discussed all over the net, clearly beeing that the design is problematic.
I'm gonna search for that manual to see how to proper adjust this shitt* designed guitar.
Cheers 🍻
@@dinamoarg Suit yourself. I know from personal experience if you read the article and follow the recommendations you will get good results. My own jaguar has a one degree shim in the neck pocket and I am using the standard bridge and 11s with no intonation or tuning issues and the strings can be bent without popping off the saddles. Jaguar is the same as any guitar it needs to be properly set up, once that's done no problems.
@@tonykeyworth3522 That's ok, but it still is a bad design. No other guitar, even designed years before, has to be used with specific type of strings, has to be shimmed, has to be strummed lightly enough so the strings don't jump out (there's no problem with bending), has a bridge that tilts back and forth.
I definitely don't understand why they never fixed those issues.
Hi my E string does strange noise, as it touch the frets, do you know how i can fix it?
If its rattling you need to bring the string height up and if its still an issue then its either the truss rod or the frets will need levelling. :)
The Jaguar is a SHORT SCALE guitar. That means that your tension is lower with ordinary .009 or .010 strings. You should put .011s on it. Then it will pull the curve back into that neck (if the truss rod is not too tight of course, so loosen it).
It is possible that the nut slot was filed too deeply. Then you could do the baking soda and superglue trick. ruclips.net/video/slCMkvEfK_U/видео.html
where exactly do i put the nail varnish? on the screws where the strings are?
You want to put it on the screws. : )
@@thedavesimpson No, YOU want to put it on the screws! I don't mess with my wife's cosmetics. When you're done, I'll say: "It wasn't me! It was Dave! He insisted!"
Can I use electrical tape for the bridge?
Yeps.
just got curious do you have 2 jags? one surf green and one Olympic white? :D
I only have one. I refinished the green one white. :)
oh i see c:
The best colours for Jags are Racing Green and Inspector Morse Red.
ddaavvvee. I got a single lot saddle bridge for mine but I used super glue after setting the action. was that stupid?
Not sure. As long as your happy with the height it should be fine, and with super glue it shouldn't move but you might struggle if you ever want to change anything. Try finding some super glue remover just incase you ever fancy a change. :)
+Dave Simpson fair point. Thank you
this is a really stupid question, but what's the difference between a jazzmaster and jaguar?
+Uncle Squid Kid The biggest difference is scale lenght, jaguar has shorter scale lenght than most other fender guitars, the controls and pups are obvious difference. The body shape is slightly different as well.
+pomaranc747 thanks mate!
+pomaranc747
True ... even shorter than the standard Gibson ... and i would add the PUs to the main differences ... Jazzmaster PUs are quite unique as Jag PUs are more like Strat PUs + a shielding ...
You guitar, your choice. But these guitar need to have a a higher break angle at the bridge. .Leo had no problems with shimming the neck pocket if you wanted more break angle . He also was trying to copy the string action of arch top jazz guitars that he was selling these offset solid body guitars for that market. Failed at selling them to jazzers, but the surf rockers took notice. The reason people have problems with strings popping off the saddles is not enough string tension from having to flat a break angle. Half the problems with Jazzmaster and Jaguars, (And Bass VI's) is to low of a bridge and to flat string break angles. And the rocking bridge will work if the tension is forced down more on the bridge. I like the nail polish trick on the screw threads. Cheaper then Loctite 242 Blue.
The only problem I'm having you didn't address. String skip over the knurled saddles.
well my vm jaguar bridge been driving me mad so i got some Hosco stainless saddles now sounds far better with no bussing like a sitar tone is better to yep tape round legs 👌now in love my jag
The bridge has to rock to stay in tune?
That was the idea that fender had but it doesn't work. Its better if the bridge does't move. : )
Maybe I’m missing something but I don’t understand how it could possibly stay in tune with the bridge moving around. If it tips forward the string would shorten. If it tips back the string would lengthen. That said it is probably not enough to notice by most ears.
Better to use aluminum foil tape because gaffer tape will dampen natural vibration reducing sustain. I've never had issues with loctite.
the bridge is sposed to float its a floating bridge the movement helps the smoove bend in whamy action when it moves out of tune to much you just pull it back or foward with your fingers its part of owning this type of off set guitar that makes it good for some players but not all and why i dont recommend it to beginner's if you are going to sink the floating bridge just get a strat the bend is a bit sharper bending and with the block abt strapt down but the bridge dont move in transition with the bridge
What about a mustang bridge?
I don't like them myself but they are an option.
You don't know the Jazzmaster bridge is constructed to "wiggle" back and forth if using the trem?
Get a buzz stop. It increases the angle of the strings and it stops the ringing of the strings behind the bridge.
I know its supposed to move but I prefer it when they don't. I don't like what buzz stops do to the resonance of the guitars.
That bridge setup is much too low ! Get a 075 stewmac shim and raise that damn bridge about 3 or 4 mm at least . Much more playable now !
Totally get where ya coming from and my sister I'ds a nail tech so I can get all the clear varnish for free notice cant beat free stuff I am a Yorkshire man but all this shimming talk baffles me and no stew mac type shims just small brass and its alll a ming trip and if I rever find a company willing to give credit to injured war vets and I get one just wondering do I need to shim pre nail varnish trick if you get what I mean I'm not best fighter after an IED in ireland in early 90s
Will it need a shimncos I'm getting no where fast ans I'm beyond frustrated
How did you actually refinish it?
Nitro spray paint. :)
Thank you. But I used this on my mustang
Oh, and about the nailpolish, you might aswell just get yourself some Loctite 243.
Oh, a technical video... that reminds me of something I wanted to ask you for quite a while.
I guess you know an awful lot about Strats, so what's the benefit of having the Vibrato blocked off with some piece of wood or anything instead of simply not using it?
I think this method is popular because of Eric Clapton I just never could make any sense out of it.
Better sustain.
+DerEchteBold With floating trem if you change string tension of one string (tuning to drop D, string break etc...) all other strings will go out of tune. Also when you bend the bridge will move so you need to bend more, and you can move the trem a bit with your palm. That's all I could think of, never owned strat in my life :D
+Rob Broome
Thanks!
So that's the idea, huh ...but does it really make a difference?
+pomaranc747
Thanks, but when you don't use a vintage vibrato system it will not be set up floating, that's very rarely the case anyways. Usually it will be well-set, allowing only to lower the pitch.
I think 'Rob Broome' was on point with the sustain idea, the question is - is it technically relevant or just psychologically.
+DerEchteBold the trem means that if you do a double stop, one of the strings will go out of tune and the extra wood helps give a little extra sustain
use shrink tubing
Maybe I'm lucky but my Bridge is solid as it is ?
That is lucky. : )
u have no idea how lucky
1). Does that duct tape deaden the sound of the guitar by interfering with the transmission of the string vibration to the guitar body and 2). Why not just take the saddles to a machinist who will get a nice piece of bell brass stock round at the right diameter and fabricate new ones with a drill press and cut one simple and deep groove for the strings at the right diameters of the strings and replace the stock ones with newly machined brass ones with the same kind of string groove as the Mustang bridge...?
If it does i don't notice it and i like the original bridges. : )
Does anyone know if the neck of a jaguar cos seems to be the question no one will answer does it need a shim how thick do I need as no stew mac ones this is only info I need and only one jag owners wont share what's the story I'm not asking people for ya credit card number just shim yes or no if yes how thick done all I need am 4 days in 15 channels no answer
The neck might need a shim but mine doesn't have one. Its guitar dependant really.
@@thedavesimpson much appreciated cos I heard all sorts ya need stew mac shim some say use a cornflakes box but I'm a wheetos man so would that work lol nad only shims I can find on amazon are the thin brass ones which I could see over time damaging wood so was thinking wheetoes box but best just to se what comes then asses bridge if cant get action godd enough maybe think of shimming shame a uk company hasnt started doing the wooden stew mac shims just ex military so need a clean to do list and then I can crack it and get a well set up instrument cos a jags my dream instrument
@@thedavesimpson yay just found out I got my grant for my jaguar from a charity who deals with vets with ptsd iv got 500 to spend imma get a 3 tone burst jag that's around 380ish leaves me 120ish for bits what would you spend it on mastere bridge or new tuners or should I just go way I'm thinking tuners iv heard are ok so might just buy it pay for bone nut and a setup big breakfast while I wait obvs and any change some strings and a nice sexy brown strap or would you use it for bridge or a mod just know it's my guitar for life so want it to be as good as it can be especially given the way I got it through a kind gesture to say thank you for what they saw as my service but what I saw as a job and a duty to my friends so fact there doing it is so cool so if you ever get chance support music in mind they work with everyone not just vets to help give people music to help heal mental issues good cause man
@@thedavesimpson also wondering what ya think of the pick ups I'm thinking of putting in in time when I'm ready for a tinker I'm thinking. In the Neck:: Di marzio chopper dp 184
Bridge::di marzio fast track2 dp182 what you think good match sounded awesome to my ear and minimal routing cos dont want to do the whole humbucker jagstang thing want my own rocking jag not just a full kurt clone although I do want to be able to get that flavour
Staytrem bridge is your friend Dave :)
:)
a nice set of flatwound 11s solves all jag bridge problems.
is this a squier vint mod? i have one and this is a fucking problem, ill try that!
It is indeed a squire. :)
Step one: replace jag bridge with mustang bridge
Step two: play it
With this mod you don't need to buy a mustang bridge.
You can't adjust the actual height of the individual saddles on the mustang bridge. It's still way better, but if you're gonna swap it out there are better options.
The problem with mustang bridges is that the string spacing can be too wide, the 1st string moves too close to the edge of the fretboard.
Mustang bridge changes the tone. Nothing wrong with that if you like it, but some folks might prefer the tone you get with the original Jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge. Yes it needs some attention to make it work flawlessly, but worth the effort if you dig the sounds it delivers.
Dieser Spaßvogel hat nicht begriffen warum das so "wackeln" soll! Unten aus den beiden Bolzen kommen normal noch dünne Inbusschrauben heraus, mit denen die Brücke in der Höhe verstellbar sind. Das Spiel wird benötigt um die Tremolobewegung auszugleichen, weil es ja keine Rollenbrücke ist. Der Mann hat die (schlechte) Konstruktion nicht verstanden!!
No chance that your intonation is correct with those saddles are lined up straight across like that.
It is intonated. Trust me. :)
instead of tape try tone pro incerts they fit in snug with a couple taps from a hammer then toss that fender pop metal garbage
which model
All help by anyone would be appreciated exept la obs lol
Another one of these guys... That bridge is designed to move. Fender is not stupid, this is not an oversight. Get this, the string is not supposed to slide over the bridge when the trem is used, instead the bridge moves! I know, mind blown. Just needs setup with proper gauge strings and neck pitch to hold strong tension.
That maybe but this works for me and i love it. :)
@@thedavesimpson of course it works, but bridges work that way in thousands of other solid body guitars with trems, just happens this model was designed different and makes you ask the question why and how.
what's this accent ?
East of England. Lincolnshire accent. : )
Your bridge is way to low. The guitar is designed to have a shim in the neck pocket and the bridge raised.
Maybe but it works.
Your guitar looks so wrong with the bridge on top of the pickguard !
You should get a pro setup , if you cannot fix it yourself
Get a Strat or Tele. Problem solved.
There not Jags though and that would be the new problem.
that is the lowest jag bridge in the whole world. no wonder ya rattle.
Theres no rattle here.