My family used to rent a home on the beach in Corolla on the "Outer Banks". If you have something representative of a signal injector, start with sending a signal through the grid of the first audio section. This will at least isolate the RF section from the audio section. If the audio is OK, then go back 1 section at a time doing the same procedure until you find the "dead" part of the radio. I hope this helps.
We stayed at a house on Sunset Beach…that’s far south on the NC coast. I don’t have any signal generating kind of equipment. That’s on my Kutztown list. But I have some clues you can help me with. When you change the band selection the speaker pops with each change…that’s clue 1. Clue 2 is when the center post on the volume control is touched the speaker hums. Are those positive signs that one section of the radio works? Steve
Could need an If alignment or it possibly could have silver mica disease in the IF cans causing silence, but I would try to re-align the IF section first before tearing into the cans. Sounds like the front end is working if it has static when switching bands. So basically the final amp is working but it isn't getting a signal from the IF section, or the oscillator part of it could be dead also. I am not an expert but I have watched a lot of these videos and have an idea where to look.
Whenever I get a victim, I mean radio, I get a white binder and put into it schematics and paperwork that includes things it needs and what I have tested on it, only because I know it may take some time to get back to it. Things important are written down like the tube testing and which ones were replaced. Caps, resistors and coils are tested and replaced usually marked on a separate schematic copy dedicated to marking those things up. On some radios I make smaller sheets with line drawings to show what was replaced on a coil for instance or a change to a particular part even if that needs to be completely redone. On the Philco check the wiring to the speaker for voltage. What is the output coming off the power transformer? You should hear something regardless. Steve from IL
Right now I have a folder stuffed with marked up schematics and notes. I like your idea of using two schematics and marking one with what has been tested. I’m going to do better voltage testing than I have in the past. There is just one little piece of the puzzle that’s not working. You can tell the radio wants to play. That’s what makes it fun and maddening all at the same time. Thank you as always for the advice. Steve
Using contact cleaner there in the beginning? I'm also curious which parts you're able to test without removal. I know doing PC repair things like capacitors etc are hard to get a clean reading on without removal. Very good stuff by the way I'm enjoying it.
I use a multimeter to test the continuity and ohms of the coils and transformers. I replaced all the capacitors and most of the resistors. Everything tests good but yet it won’t play. I don’t have any fancy test equipment, I’m just a self-taught hobbyist. But it’s a fun challenge. I just need to find a mistake I made or something broken to get it working again. Steve
My family used to rent a home on the beach in Corolla on the "Outer Banks". If you have something representative of a signal injector, start with sending a signal through the grid of the first audio section. This will at least isolate the RF section from the audio section. If the audio is OK, then go back 1 section at a time doing the same procedure until you find the "dead"
part of the radio. I hope this helps.
We stayed at a house on Sunset Beach…that’s far south on the NC coast. I don’t have any signal generating kind of equipment. That’s on my Kutztown list. But I have some clues you can help me with. When you change the band selection the speaker pops with each change…that’s clue 1. Clue 2 is when the center post on the volume control is touched the speaker hums. Are those positive signs that one section of the radio works?
Steve
Could need an If alignment or it possibly could have silver mica disease in the IF cans causing silence, but I would try to re-align the IF section first before tearing into the cans. Sounds like the front end is working if it has static when switching bands. So basically the final amp is working but it isn't getting a signal from the IF section, or the oscillator part of it could be dead also. I am not an expert but I have watched a lot of these videos and have an idea where to look.
Whenever I get a victim, I mean radio, I get a white binder and put into it schematics and paperwork that includes things
it needs and what I have tested on it, only because I know it may take some time to get back to it. Things important are
written down like the tube testing and which ones were replaced. Caps, resistors and coils are tested and replaced usually marked on a separate schematic copy dedicated to marking those things up. On some radios I make smaller sheets with
line drawings to show what was replaced on a coil for instance or a change to a particular part even if that needs to be completely redone. On the Philco check the wiring to the speaker for voltage. What is the output coming off the power transformer? You should hear something regardless. Steve from IL
Right now I have a folder stuffed with marked up schematics and notes. I like your idea of using two schematics and marking one with what has been tested.
I’m going to do better voltage testing than I have in the past.
There is just one little piece of the puzzle that’s not working. You can tell the radio wants to play. That’s what makes it fun and maddening all at the same time. Thank you as always for the advice.
Steve
Using contact cleaner there in the beginning? I'm also curious which parts you're able to test without removal. I know doing PC repair things like capacitors etc are hard to get a clean reading on without removal. Very good stuff by the way I'm enjoying it.
I use a multimeter to test the continuity and ohms of the coils and transformers. I replaced all the capacitors and most of the resistors. Everything tests good but yet it won’t play. I don’t have any fancy test equipment, I’m just a self-taught hobbyist. But it’s a fun challenge. I just need to find a mistake I made or something broken to get it working again.
Steve
Liked and subbed. 🖤🏴☠️🤘🏻