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My1925World
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Добавлен 21 авг 2018
This channel will feature radios from the 1920's - the 1950's that I've restored to playing condition and other videos that may be of interest. Under Playlists/ favorites you'll find videos, from other RUclips channels, of silent movies, 1920's jazz and radio restoration. Under Channels you'll find some channels featuring music, radios and movies. This page will offer you an escape from the 21st century and let you enjoy My1925World.
I’m determined to get this to play
Trying a new approach and crazy voltage readings.
Просмотров: 1 117
Видео
Trying again on the Philco that refuses to play.
Просмотров 705Месяц назад
Basic testing…hoping for an easy fix.
The 511 teaching me new things
Просмотров 6222 месяца назад
I check the volume control and fix the range control.
Philco 511 test with a good speaker
Просмотров 1962 месяца назад
The first audio test with an RCA. Speaker
More capacitors for the Philco 511
Просмотров 983 месяца назад
I created a new capacitor block for the 511 and tested it
Beginning work and power up!!
Просмотров 2464 месяца назад
Start working on the 511 and put power to it for the first time.
Figuring out the ‘28 Philco
Просмотров 1115 месяцев назад
Learning about the Philco and figuring out workarounds during testing.
Philco 511 Getting Started
Просмотров 1066 месяцев назад
Looking at the tubes. Cleaning them and testing the filaments.
Fixing Philcos
Просмотров 7546 месяцев назад
Working on a 1928 Philco and a 1948 Philco. Just looking things over.
Brunswick is finally done
Просмотров 1137 месяцев назад
I tested the new mica caps in the radio. It’s finally done after a few months.
Working with what I’ve got
Просмотров 947 месяцев назад
I use mostly the old parts to get the radio playing again. New mica caps will be added later.
A few little finds
Просмотров 668 месяцев назад
A fun time but only found a few things. cc-awa.club Should take you to the clubs site to see pictures.
Speakers of that era use B+ CURRENT in place of a Permanent Magnet (they were weak back then). It also acts as a filter CHOKE. Try a modern speaker on the terminals output transformer terminals. (the 'choke' or substitute power resister must be in place.)
Thank you for that idea. I’ll keep this in mind for other radios that may come my way. The speaker I have works. I hooked it up to my ‘48 Philco and it sounds great. The problem, I think, is the lack of power or a signal getting to the speaker. I’m going to test all the plate and grid voltages next. But thank you again for your idea. Steve
Colors of the wires going to the speaker connector do not match up well to what was in there originally. If the orange is the original it's voltage shoulg be 290 VDC. There was a split to each control grid where that went to each 6K6 at pin 4. Now the red should not be a high negative voltage. In fact if the red goes to the plate of one of the 6K6 tubes (pin 3) it should be 280 Volts as well as the white going to the plate of the other 6K6. The green might be the wire going to a 68 Ohm resistor that then goes to one side of the volume control. I'm more concerned about the orange wire which is B+. It should only be 300 Volts or less not 468 Volts. The 6J5 Phase Inverter plate voltage ( pin 3) should be about 200 Volts and it's cathode at pin 8 should be less than 80 Volts. Also look at 7X7 tube pin 2 should be only 127 Volts and pin 3 a negative 0.5 volts. All the readings you get are DC only with no station tuned in to get a measurement .
Thank you for all the information. I will check these out again. I’m going to check the voltages to all the tubes first. Then go backwards from each speaker connector wire to the tube to the tube it’s connected to. Then still backwards from there. Maybe that will lead to the problem. I hope. Steve
What are you measuring the voltages with? A DMM used on high impedance valve circuits will give readings which while accurate will not match the service manual readings which were taken with an analogue meter. A good service manual should state what meter is to be used and on what range, you can shunt a DMM with a resistor to match the intended meter resistance.
Yes I use a digital multimeter. When this was made everything was analog. If the values are a little off, high or low, I’ll let it pass. Some are off just a few volts. Some readings are way off…then I look for a problem. Steve
@@My1925World They could be way off. The intended meter could be something like 5 k ohms per volt whereas even a cheap DMM is usually 11 M ohms or more. In a circuit where resistors are in the 100 k range the effect is very significant.
@@NiallWardropI’ll have to check what the repair literature said they tested with. An analog meter may be on the wishlist. Thank you for telling me this…could make a huge difference. Steve
@@My1925World It's been a while but I think the way it works is for example if the data says measure with a meter of 10 k ohms per volt sensitivity on the 3 volt range then the meter resistance will be 3 x 10k = 30k so if you put a 30k resistor across the input to a DMM it will be about right. If the circuit is very sensitive the data will say to use a Vacuum Tube Voltmeter (VTVM) which is the vintage equivalent of a DMM so the readings will be right without a shunt resistor.
@@NiallWardropI’ll have to look that up and give the resistor fix a try. Thank you. Steve
Grab a signal tracer or frequency generator (set up to the IF frequency), and start from the audio output back one stage at a time until you cannot hear the signal out of the speaker (I connect to the grid of each tube ). Hope this will help.
Sounds like I’m going to have to do that. I’ll put those on my Kutztown wishlist along with another Philco 1227 chassis. Maybe I’ll get lucky and figure out the radio’s problem. This is a real challenge. Steve
Thanks for sharing. I've had similar issues on several radios. Oscillator coil? Keep searching.
The oscillator coil tests fine. I’ll probably start with rechecking the IF cans. Someone just posted that suggestion…I’ll look there first and do voltage readings. I’m determined to get this playing again. Thank you for any suggestions. Steve
Could need an If alignment or it possibly could have silver mica disease in the IF cans causing silence, but I would try to re-align the IF section first before tearing into the cans. Sounds like the front end is working if it has static when switching bands. So basically the final amp is working but it isn't getting a signal from the IF section, or the oscillator part of it could be dead also. I am not an expert but I have watched a lot of these videos and have an idea where to look.
I don’t have the proper equipment to do a really good alignment. The IF cans will probably be the first think I take a look at. I don’t believe these type suffer from silver mica issues. I could be wrong on that…I’ll mostly look for a broken wire or bad capacitor. Thanks for the info on the band switch pops. I was hoping that was a good sign. You can tell it wants to play. Steve
My family used to rent a home on the beach in Corolla on the "Outer Banks". If you have something representative of a signal injector, start with sending a signal through the grid of the first audio section. This will at least isolate the RF section from the audio section. If the audio is OK, then go back 1 section at a time doing the same procedure until you find the "dead" part of the radio. I hope this helps.
We stayed at a house on Sunset Beach…that’s far south on the NC coast. I don’t have any signal generating kind of equipment. That’s on my Kutztown list. But I have some clues you can help me with. When you change the band selection the speaker pops with each change…that’s clue 1. Clue 2 is when the center post on the volume control is touched the speaker hums. Are those positive signs that one section of the radio works? Steve
Whenever I get a victim, I mean radio, I get a white binder and put into it schematics and paperwork that includes things it needs and what I have tested on it, only because I know it may take some time to get back to it. Things important are written down like the tube testing and which ones were replaced. Caps, resistors and coils are tested and replaced usually marked on a separate schematic copy dedicated to marking those things up. On some radios I make smaller sheets with line drawings to show what was replaced on a coil for instance or a change to a particular part even if that needs to be completely redone. On the Philco check the wiring to the speaker for voltage. What is the output coming off the power transformer? You should hear something regardless. Steve from IL
Right now I have a folder stuffed with marked up schematics and notes. I like your idea of using two schematics and marking one with what has been tested. I’m going to do better voltage testing than I have in the past. There is just one little piece of the puzzle that’s not working. You can tell the radio wants to play. That’s what makes it fun and maddening all at the same time. Thank you as always for the advice. Steve
Hey Steve, it’s Steve…I checked the voltages on the cable going to the speaker. I disconnected the speaker from the socket and took the measurements from the socket. 5 openings..4 are used. 1. Red wire -202 volts 2. White wire 0 volts 4. Green wire 6 mvolts 5. Orange wire 468 volts To me that looks like a problem. Thoughts/ideas on these voltage readings? I’m starting from the speaker and working backwards. The speaker is the only part that I know works. Steve
Using contact cleaner there in the beginning? I'm also curious which parts you're able to test without removal. I know doing PC repair things like capacitors etc are hard to get a clean reading on without removal. Very good stuff by the way I'm enjoying it.
I use a multimeter to test the continuity and ohms of the coils and transformers. I replaced all the capacitors and most of the resistors. Everything tests good but yet it won’t play. I don’t have any fancy test equipment, I’m just a self-taught hobbyist. But it’s a fun challenge. I just need to find a mistake I made or something broken to get it working again. Steve
Liked and subbed. 🖤🏴☠️🤘🏻
Rebuilt one of these back in the 2010s. Really fun radios to work on :). Did yours have asbestos under the transformer heat shield?
No asbestos. This radio was kinda picked over….parts were missing. The bottom plate and the plate over the tuner and transformer were gone. But I got it to work. Steve
@@My1925World great work with it! Mine had a huge chunk of asbestos. Glad you dodged that.
1:00 min, Its nice to have a radio that can drive a speaker.
Yes. Having the correct combination makes all the difference. Steve
What are the frequency range of that radio....how far you can receive at night 😊
The Shining is still with us
How far can you receive on that radio....at night... What is the frequency range?😊
Honestly I never tested it at night. I need to do that. The frequency range seems the same. My AM broadcaster is around 1300…so I know it goes up at least that far. The dial goes from 0 to 100. Steve
Amazing ! This was presumably a high-end product of the era.
Thank you. I believe that this model was produced in the first year Philco made radios. I’m not sure you can call Philcos high end, but it probably wasn’t cheap. Radios in the 1920’s were a big expense. I’m glad I got this one working again. Steve
Picking up a unit similar to this one . Radio works but not the turn table. It looks like it's from early 50s maybe late 40s . I'm thinking about gutting the old equipment and using the cabinet for my 70s components but wanted to know if this is worth fixing first. Or if there is any demand for the old parts.
I would try fixing it first. It’s only original once. But you’ll have to judge if it’s worth the time and effort for what you want to use it for. There is always a market for old parts. To fix mine I bought an entire chassis just for the dial pointer. Steve
It is indeed quite important that your antenna-input is correct. Strong stations preferably with receiver set on "local" (even if, according to the schematic, you're using de mains wires as some kind of antenna !!! ) Pay attention to the fact that the volume doesn't work like the now commonly used & known "potentiometer regulating the LF (audio) signal". The volume is set using an antenna-potentiometer, lowering the antenna input-signal-strength. This should work effectively. If not, there is something wrong with that pot-meter. To start up, set that volume-potentiometer on the side where the taper is making contact to the chassis. So "shorting" the antenna-input. This can be checked with every ohm-meter putting one lead to the antenna-input and and the other one making contact with the chassis. You should read about 10000ohm. Then turn it just a tad and search for a station. Once you're receiving a station, adjust the volume to your needs avoiding the speaker to make metallic noise. In fact, those old receivers need 2 hands to adjust. One hand to "search" and one to set the volume (adapt the antenna-signal) Good luck Very nice radio it is !!!
Thank you for the tuning advice. I was doing it all wrong. No wonder it was blasting loud. Much appreciated. Steve.
@@My1925World Glad you got it working properly. Those "oldies" needed antennas of good length outside the house. 10 up to 30meter! (multiply by about 3 to calculate in feet) As high as possible. If you don't have that option, you could use your attic to mount your "long-wire" antenna. I'm doing that using old (recuperated) UTP-cable. What would be nice also is to use your own LPAM-transmitter. Those are quite easy to find in the USA. With such a transmitter plus some (old) tablet, laptop or mobile phone you could stream and transmit AM to all you old radios. But as I can hear, there is still some "life" in the AM-band in your country. (probably a lot of "talking-radio's" but less "music-radio's" ) In Europe a lot of countries closed down their AM-transmitters. Even FM is doomed.
@@joostderidder for my ‘20’s and ‘30’s sets I have 20 foot wire antenna close to the ceiling in my repair room. I also have a wire connected to the earth ground of the house. The AM band is alive but it’s all political talk or sports. You may find some country music or news talk. I use my little AM broadcaster most of the time. Steve
Let's party like it's 1927! The radio never had an automatic volume control, we got spoiled later on.
I’ll get the bathtub gin🥳 This radio was a fun challenge. I learned a lot about 1920’s radios. It never thought about automatic volume control. Good point. I’d hate to be wearing headphones with this radio. 😆 Steve
Sounds great! Now you can "show it off" to your friends and family!
Thank you. I already have. The hard part now is where do I put it? 😂 It was a fun radio to work on, I’m very happy it plays again. Steve
5:40 "Fast Food" - Stevens and Grdnic 1980's humor. 😅 Very nice old radio. You did great. Sometimes it is worth doing more disassebly to make repairs easier. It's a toss up sometimes.
You’re correct having the chassis pulled out makes repairs a lot easier. I’m glad the repair was the broken wire. I’ll play it again soon with the RCA speaker for a final test. Steve.
It is working good but the test speaker is total crap. These old TRF radios are all trial and error until you figure what to do to get it right.
I’m going to play it with the RCA speaker. I think it will sound great. Then it’s more or less done. I’ll do a short video of that. Steve
I guess it's trial and error until all the unknowns get ironed out. That's a good thing since that's how one learns - I know very little about your Philco. You'll get it figured out.
Each radio teaches me something. This one was like a college course 😂. I’m hoping to get to the Kutztown next year. The 511 needs a Philco speaker. This radio was lots of fun for the $20 I paid. I’m really happy it’s back to playing condition again. Steve
Mike Katz on long Island NY make reproduction grill cloth for your RCA speaker. Looks exactly like yours but new and at a good price. He 's on the internet called radio grill cloth, but it's all one word. ;) Steve from IL
I thought about replacing it but it’s all in one piece and original. So I’ll keep it as is for now. Thank you for the website. I always need clothe for other radios. Steve
Man that's a nice radio! I believe you're right - the left knob is volume, right is RF gain (since this is pre-superhet). I saw one of these this past weekend and thought of you. As some folks say in the vintage car world - this one was driven hard, and put away wet. Hopefully you'll the volume control sorted.
Thanks the radio cleaned up better than I thought it would. Lately volume controls have been my biggest problem. It’s a good way to learn something new, but I would rather not 🤣 I need to go to Kutztown next year and get a speaker for it. Steve
Bien hecho la restauracion quedo exelente,bravo!!!!!
I don't think anything modern would last as long as this grand old lady. Nice work.
I totally agree. Nothing made in 2024 will be working in 2120. Steve
It's gonna look sweet!
Picks up a lot of stations. I’m really happy with the way it’s come back around.
Great progress Steve.
Thank you. It’s been fun to work on.
Let me know if you want a Lamp Hood Cover to finish it off. I had them reproduced exactly and can send you one as a contribution thanks.
Wow that would be great. That is very generous of you. Here is the channel’s email address. My1925world@yahoo.com. Send me an email and I’ll reply to you with my address. Thank you so much. Steve
Ugliness only matters when you see the blind date. You took those caps and got it to work! Nuff said! Good job!
Hahahaha. Thank you. I’m really enjoying working on it and getting it to play again. It was never going to be a museum piece. The top is the wrong one and it may have been a parts donor. For $25 I’m having a lot of fun with it. Steve
@@My1925World That's all that matters!
Tube radio repair life is so much better with a tube tester.
Yes it is. When I originally worked on this radio I didn’t have a tube tester. I was just happy it played. Steve
What a nice Philco! I've got locktals if you need them.
Well done! Enjoy the rest of the holiday!
Great video Steve. When I measure the resistance across the power plug on my working 511, I get 20 ohms with the Primary Tap Switch #29 positioned toward the rear of the radio and 18 ohms when positioned toward the front. I cannot find any reference to suggest what voltages the two positions represent and I haven't measured tube voltages yet. The resistor you suggested being a 10 Meg looks to me to be a 10K (Brown-Black-Orange). Where did you get the schematic you have that includes the component values? The only one I have been able to locate with values shown is the Canadian Philco 511 version and the values are subtly different than what I see on your copy. None of the US versions I can find have the component values shown except for the odd value in the parts list. Good job, keep them coming and thank you.
Look on Philcoradio.com. I believe that’s where I found the schematic. Under service info….early Philco schematics…511 series. Tons of useful information on that site as well. Hope that helps. Steve
@@My1925World Thanks Steve, that was it. The Philco site was the first place I visited but I gathered the schematic from the "Philco 1928-1936 Wiring Diagrams" section rather than the "Early Philco Schematics" as you suggested. Thanks again.
I watched this last month when you released it and I just happened to pick up this model a couple days ago. The seller had it playing when I arrived to pick it up. Has a hum that I will need to take care of but otherwise in great shape. Looking forward to your future videos on this model. BTW, the jack in front is for a phonograph pickup. I enjoy your videos - short and informative.
I still have to pull the chassis from the ‘48 Philco to test the tubes. It’s a real chore and I’m dragging my feet on that one. The Philco 511 is really making me think. I don’t have all the “correct” replacement part but I’ll use what I have to hopefully make it play again. I’m glad you got one already in working condition. Thanks for watching my videos. I hope to have a new one this weekend. Steve
It is weird looking at a radio of this vintage. Resistances may seem precise but they probably varied from radio to radio but not over 20%! The long resistance block was a 3 Watt minimum but for modern safety reasons you should bump that up to 5 Watts for each one. Since it ran off 110 Volts back then we now have 125 Volts or higher coming out of the wall. Any section not up to snuff and you might be dead in the water. I am not sure if you can check the tubes. One bad one will make it inoperable. Guess that is how they made things back then.
Agreed. My house voltage is about 122. I use a Variac when I play my radios. I keep the voltage between 100 and 110. I still need to take readings on the 5-part resistor. I’ll replace what I need to with 5 watts. My tube tester doesn’t take the older tubes. I checked the filaments. All the filaments are good so we’ll go from there. You never know, this radio may play again. Steve
At 4:14 you are pointing to a metal rectangular box containing electrolytic capacitors potted in tar. They may actually still be OK but don't quote me on that! Steve from IL
Thank you Steve. In the next video I have a resistor wattage question you may be able to help me with. Thanks for watching and helping. Steve in NC
@@My1925World Study the circle that Ohm's Law derives P i.e. Power in Watts. I guess I shouldn't have mention I went to IIT in Chicago decades ago for electrical engineering.
@@hestheMasterI’ve always benefited a great deal from your help in the past. Keep the suggestions coming. I’m always interested in learning more about how these great old radios work. My past career was in TV news editing…no math or engineering required. 😆 Steve
The capacitors inside of that block are actually standard non-polarized caps- not electrolytics.
Very cool! I love these old bread box radios. Good clean shape. It's good to keep in mind that these older balloon type tube have VERY low filament voltages. Unfortunately, I found this out the hard way once. Also, don't trust that oil crapacitor or any others that old. Even micas can be bad some times. I think you already know all of this though. Take care!
I’m hoping the power transformer is ok. I’m going to check the capacitors. If there is any life left in them, I may try a quick power up to see if the set works. Then replace all the old parts that need changing. I believe, just by looking, it has 3 capacitor blocks. I still need to study and figure the best plan of attack. Learning as I go…if you have any suggestions please share. Thanks for watching and the comments. Steve
@@My1925World Use a light bulb in series and a variable transformer if you got one. That radio and your others look great. Good luck!
Looks like it will be a fun project. It might work as is if you bring it up slowly on a variac.
If all the coils, capacitors and the power transformer check out ok , I’m going to try it. Steve
just found your channel. subscribed
That’s great, thank you. I hope you enjoy it. Steve
@@My1925World just sold my shop downtown. I worked on all sorts of electronics for 39 years there. I loved the old radios and two way radio. No CB's
Before we had a television, we had a monster Philco console radio, which entertained us with The Green Hornet, Boston Blackie, the Lone Ranger and many other shows. When I got old enough, I sometimes was dispatched to the drugstore to test a vacuum tube and fetch a new one if it failed. Riding a bicycle with a brand new tube in my pocket was sometimes nerve-wracking. But, I never broke one.
I did the work on the Philco before I had a tube tester, so I hope that’s the problem. I remember going to the hardware store with my dad and a box of TV tubes to test. I use a AM broadcaster and play the old radio shows through the radio. Lots of fun. The old radios are time machines in their own way. You switch it on and it’s 1926 or 1948. Steve
That was a good buy on the metal philco, they were good radios!
It may still play with all the original parts. I wish I would have purchased it’s rusty twin. It probably had the parts mine are missing. Steve
Nice job!
Coming from you that means a lot. Thank you. Just trying my best. Some problems are just beyond my knowledge….for now. Take care, Steve
Someone just gave me a 48-1270 because no one else wanted it. It seems to work fine but the power cord is crusty. Do you recall how hard it is to replace the power cord on this chassis? I've never replaced one but it can't be rocket science as long as I can get the chassis out and dust off my soldering iron. I'm just not sure about polarity, as the original power cord plug is non-polarized, but the spare extension cord I have is. Any tips? Thanks!
Thank you for saving the old Philco. I keep things simple when it comes to power cords. I’ve used lamp or extension cords as replacements. But I’ll replace the plug with an original style plug….two narrow blades. Replacing the cord is fairly easy. The chassis is really packed with parts. Removing the chassis is a lot easier than putting it back…just a warning. Since you’ll have the chassis out to replace the he power cord, you may want to replace the electrolytic capacitors as well. If they short out the transformer will cook itself. There are tons of videos on RUclips to really explain that replacement process well. I’m going to be diving back into my ‘48 Philco in the near future. The station plays…fades aways…then POP…the station is back. I’m hoping it’s a bad tube. Thanks for watching, I hope I helped. Enjoy the Philco Steve.
@@My1925World Thanks for your reply! I really appreciate your advice and videos. I was given the Philco 48-1270 because no one wanted a console that would only play 78s, but I think it's cool. It must be so awesome to have one of these that your grandpa owned. I collect prewar tube radios but I only buy them recapped, so I've never had to replace cords or caps. I think I can probably handle replacing the electrolytic capacitors if I take it slow. I just wish Philcos had more room inside the chassis! Thanks again.
Everything looks great! Thanks.
You run across a lot of great radios!
Thank you. I find them at swap meets, auctions, antique shops, a few were gifts and I dragged one out of a barn. A few, like the little RCA, I’ve had over 40 years. Now I’m just trying to maintain what I have. The house is full. But there is always room for one more…hahaha. Steve
Yes there is always room for one more! Thank goodness for Nostalgia Air, those Riders manuals take up a lot of space!
😴 "promo sm"
If you went over all the components and replaced them it still is possible that a pin socket solder point may be to blame. That would cause a hum if one of the necessary components is not making good contact through a pin connection on a tube socket. Make sure the right wires are going to the right pin outs as well!
That sounds like a good plan. Maybe a wire is broken under the solder or something. Related to that, I’m going to check the solder on the speaker plug. Maybe one of the wires from the speaker is breaking apart inside the pin. It’s probably something simple just waiting to be found. But, while searching I’m learning a lot. As always thank you for sharing your ideas and knowledge. Steve
@@My1925World Also check for solder blobs. Even I run across them every now and then.
Beautiful little RCA radio.
Thank you. It’s currently under the weather. The volume control shorted out. But at 84 years old that’s going to happen. I hope to have it playing again soon. 🙂 Thanks for watching. Steve
@@My1925World I have many old radios. I put LED night lights inside some, by the original dial lightbulb, so that they don't have to operate to be "alive" again.