1956 Silvertone 1333 | Vintage Amp Restoration | Fazio Electric
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Watch me refurbish the circuit in a late 50's Silvertone 1333 tube amp.
This is the last video shot in my first Los Angeles workshop (shot Sep 2021). My hiatus is due to moving, traveling, and looking for a new spot. Thank you all for sticking around!
If any Chicagoland folks would like their amp serviced, I will be here through the month of December 2021. Shoot me an email, and be sure to mention you're in Illinois.
EMAIL: fazioamps@gmail.com
INSTAGRAM: @fazioelectric
Hi Colleen , Thank you again for the work you have done on this amp ! All your effort has resulted in my Dads's old Silvertone being one of the most requested amps in my studio backline . Your work is beyond fantastic !
I have used other Tube Gurus in the past and your work ethic and attention to detail set you above the rest .
For the record I am using the amp most often with a Fender bassman cab loaded with NOS Muscle Magnets . These
are old production Eminence speakers that really bring out the Silvertone sound .
Thank you again for your hard work and devotion .
Best ,
Jonny T
I am 68,electronics engineer with 42+ years of experience. I see the patience you have and appreciate the logical analysis you do to troubleshoot the amp. Very well done. Congrats.
Except for one thing, she replaced the power cord with plastic cables on the interior. If you notice, the original power lines were cloth covered to prevent power source melting and causing a short. That's a rookie mistake!
Those are some badass fingernails! 👍
Hot rod.
Nice touch.👍🥃
I can't believe there aren't more comments about them, they are so cool!
Great movie.
It's nice to hear a woman's voice on the technical channel and nice colored nails instead of hairy paws.
Best wishes
That amp sounds like a David Lynch film.
Best coment ever
What's amazing besides your obvious skill is the fact that even with You Tube compressing the heck out of the audio, the warmth of that amp comes through like a thick, fuzzy blanket on a cold day. It just sounds gorgeous! Excellent work! You provide such a rare and needed service to classic audio lovers everywhere!
Saw that main filter capacitor and said to myself, never do that! You demonstrated exactly as to why , it is a very poor
connection to ground. Grounding lugs are best. What a beast of a recap job. Very tight quarters and time consuming.
This amp never sounded so good now and with a working tremolo to boot. Great job Colleen!
My only thought is if those green caps had failed in the tremolo circuit, I'd think the rest of them would be suspect too. I probably would've replaced the rest of the green ones as well
@ROSE STONE Looking at the schematic (the cap values), and the form factor of both the original green ones that came out, and the replacement yellow ones that went back in, I think those must be film caps. Ceramic caps are either flat discs, or just little resin covered blobs. Film caps have the same form factor as an electrolytic (round cylinder of film wrapped into a roll), but there's no wet electrolyte in them. My guess is the originals are probably failing at the lead-to-film connection and just go completely open circuit. Watching closer, the green caps in the tremolo circuit are different than the other green caps elsewhere that she didn't replace. The labeling on them is different, so maybe the other caps really are ok. I wasn't watching that closely the first time to notice the differences.
@@gorak9000 Yeah, my thoughts exactly particularly given the amp age. Definitely should have replaced that lone wax cap! TBH it should have been fully recapped but great job fixing the amp and especially changing the non polarized line cord!
@@expired56k I think with these vintage amps, there's some desire to keep the original caps in the audio path as long as they're still doing their job - blocking DC bias between the gain stages. Something about "character" and whatnot... :) I mean that's the whole reason to use tube amps these days to begin with - for the "warmth" and "character" (aka distortion). Not all distortion is bad or undesired.
@@gorak9000 I mean yeah, it might be okay depending on where that cap is but wax caps are absolutely notorious for being bad, if it's completely bad is stops being a cap and could damage the amp or let AC through. Given than no cap was ESR tested, it might not be best idea to just assume it is good by just using the amp. It would be nearly impossible to have a good wax cap from well of year 70 years ago which also saw a lot of usage like OP has mentioned. I doubt anyone could really hear this warm cap in a guitar amp, but I definitely know what you mean! ;)
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR PLAYING RUMBLE!!! I was sitting like "imagine if she played that".
It's good to see you back. These episodes were sorely missed. I too am not surprised the cabinet deteriorated. They were made of particle board and Masonite. Have you been experiencing the ever-shrinking availability of tubes? Everyone I have spoken to have commented on how scarce they are. Your nails are BOMB! I hope more work comes your way. This channel is very interesting in the presentation of the material. Nevertheless stay safe from this modern-day plague.
One of the most enjoyable episodes for sure... especially for us old timers who remember dreaming of owning this amp, while paging through the Sears catalogue in our youth!
I’m with you brother…
Sounds sweeeeet. Now it’s ready for another 60+ years. Great work.
Hopefully I’ll find the courage to repair one of my amps. some day. Thanks 🤘👍
Did you go to school for electronics or learn by doing it like I did? The more I watch the more your attention to details just shines. You have learned some great techniques and it shows. Anyone sends you something to work on, It'd coming back better than when it was originally built.
That is crazy how quiet that amp eventually got. Excellent video! I don't know why, but it's almost therapeutic watching you solder, you're so solid. That entire room would smell like burned insulation if I was attempting any of those tight reaches. I think you could solder around corners if you so desired.
My Silverton 1482 is in a new cabinet, and I constantly leave it on as it's so quiet.
From 1986 to 1996, I worked as a radio mechanic, after 1996 I work in the energy sector, but last year, when I saw this beautiful lady on RUclips, I had a desire to do radio mechanics in addition to. Thank you kind beauty, you inspired me to do my favorite thing again, good luck to you.
Colleen is a thoughtful reflective natural teacher.
Thank-you, Colleen, for this very helpful video and for response to my email. 👍🏼 #RockOn
P.S. -love yer nails!
Nice old amp! I hope the owner can get it into some version of its original cabinet so it can be played out again.
Good job rearranging the fuse and switch. In the end the amp performed well, but here are some suggestions:
The safety ground (green earth wire) should be attached using a dedicated bolt, as requirement for new equipment. Transformer bolts can loosen over time.
The safety ground lead should be left long enough so that it will be the last thing to break free if the power cable is pulled out of the chassis.
The best place to ground the first filter (reservoir cap) is at the same point where the power transformer’s high-voltage center tap (or the bridge rectifier) is grounded. That minimizes the chance of 120Hz buzz getting into the audio by keeping the return from high-current charging pulses off the chassis.
Stabilizing large electrolytics by attaching them to the chassis with silicone is a good idea to prevent lead breakage, but they should be located away from heat sources to maximize service life. The power transformer, output tubes, and output tube cathode resistors are things to keep them away from.
Very neat work, I use to be an old tube jockey, your work is very impressive, great too see a young lady carrying on an old tradition ! Enjoyed the video.
Aluminum chassis means it was built by Danelectro (early Silvertones with steel chassis were built by Valco). Watch out for riveted chassis grounds that have often oxidized or worked loose over the years. The green Sangamo caps are almost always leaky (electrically).
Sangamo caps are good enough for that thing
I have the same amp and all of my coupling caps were leaky. I just recapped the whole thing. Replaced the old carbon resistors in the front end to quiet that down as well. I've found several old Valcos use pretty cheap resistors that hiss and pop when warm.
@@cheezhead6007 What does that mean?! I have rebuilt some Danos and Silvertone Danos and find that good 'un is right. The Sangamo caps do not hold up well. Not only do they leak DC but they also drift way off spec. I just finished a Dano/Silvertone and had to replace every cap in the amp. Now sounds great - Sangamos were not "good enough."
I would like to take this opportunity to compliment you and your mentor for doing such a great job. Its refreshing to hear a younger person speak and explain why circuitry is being configured the correct way. I'm a professional electronic technician and I can quickly differentiate between someone that knows their stuff and someone that is just repeating the words they were taught. Please keep up the good work and making great videos. You are unique and should be very successful in what you do as you have what it takes to really understand what needs to be done.
Nice nails for amp tech Coleen - mine are always frayed and broken.
If you want to be thorough, you would want to replace .5 200VDC wax wad cap as well. There's excellent video on Mister Carlson's lab channel why paper caps go bad with time.
Aslo, check that these old Tropical caps don't leak DC through - if tremolo caps went bad, coupling might be on the way.
Best of luck.
Yeah, paper caps are ticking time bombs of trouble. If the rest go bad the amp will start burning up tubes.
A female Uncle Doug?.... thankyou RUclips algorithms.
I loved the Link Wray ! Great job, I could watch you all day !
Idle Moments by Grant Green was a surprise treat! One of my favourite songs and albums of his. I love the care, attention and historical perspective you’ve packed into this video. Your nails look awesome btw.
and Link Wray's "Rumble" sounded fantastic too!
I’m a shade tree amp builder / player. Love your systematic method of bringing these old amps back to there former glory. It’s easier to build one, then fix one sometimes. Kudos!
I feel for you; the tremolo oscillator caps, ugh! I had to replace them in my Silvertone 1472 Amp... good thing I had a schematic lol. I love your video! You're the best!! 👌
It sounds amazing! I always loved the tremolo on these old Silvertone amps. Awesome job on the restore, it's really cool that you were able to fix everything for the owner like this. What a great family heirloom.
Link Wray was a great choice for this amp. Nice job.
The filter capacitor grounded on transformer casing... golden 🤣
People like you single handedly keep the used amp market alive and keep these cool old machines going generationally gotta love it
I spent half an hour learning about amp repair and then was treated to your renditions of Grant Green and Link Wray!? Fabulous! Love your work!
No better way to test a tremello circuit than Rumble! Awesome job on this amp!
Super restoration repair!👍 Really dig the Link Wray "RUMBLE" bit at the end! Vintage vibes for a vintage amp!😎
I’m very happy to see you back to RUclips. I *LOVE* the little history intro!
I love all your videos, and the little history about that time in the US is a very cool touch. Please keep 'em coming! 😊🤙🙏👏🎸🎼🎵🎶🔊
It is an absolute pleasure watching you work. You always leave me in awe of how effortless you make it appear when I know that's far from reality. On a separate note, if you re-order T-Shirts, please let us know? I'm sure I'm not the only one that would like to purchase one!! Please keep up the great work and the Great Videos!!!
Thank you! I have a feeling that’s in the cards for the future :)
@@FazioElectric Also waiting for the next batch of shirts! Great video as always,
@@FazioElectric I’d buy a t-shirt too
@@FazioElectric I just joined today and would love to see you assemble a tube amp from the start.
Heeeeeey, long time, no see :). I love your channel - amp/pedal/synth girls of the world, unite!
Lovely amp on the outside, but it could surely use some redesign when it comes to ground connections. Depending on the chassis layout, I choose bus or star grounding. For the latter I use a thick copper wire (e.g. 4mm²) grounded close to the input jack, going all the way to the power supply. The wire between the rectifier bridge (or secondary C.T.) and the filter cap is "dirty", should be reasonably heavy and nothing else can connect to it.
I always use some kind of strain relief if going for a hardwired power cord; heatshrink for soldered connections on fuse ockets and switches, and whenever a wire goes out of the transformer and I need to splice it, I use a terminal strip or a DPDT power switch.
I really love that you know your thing and talk about amps and repairs with competence and confidence. Uncle Doug (and probably Mr Carlson too, as I see his school of fuse-before-switch) has taught you well. And you have nice nails :) I sometimes do repairs and build stuff with painted nails, but it's kinda tricky...
A good reparation/restoration of a tube amplifier, a calm female voice while soldering with fire nails, is a kind of art. Very good video👍
Those green capacitors are mica capacitors and they rarely fail. However, the yellow and red capacitors in there should be replaced as the red is the electrolytic and yellow ones are the electrolytics and the paper capacitors and the fail all the time
Obviously this coloring scheming isn’t always the case
Oh, one more suggestion for reliability: I would avoid mounting filter caps on the power transformer ( I see you glued one to the xmfr case ) reason being that heat from the xmfr will migrate into the cap thru the glue and prematurely dry out the cap over time.
School boy error
В наше время женщины не боятся таких высоких напряжений это похвально!
That’s is a rad amp and rad video! Also, I really dig the nails 😉
solid work, about soldering,sometimes i saw some people like twist the wire when doing something like wire to pot connect point, put the wire through the hole on connect point, and make wire little L or J hook is enough, never twisting wire,thats for some years later in the future some repair guy do the repair job easier, like desoldering, just heat up and pull off.
Cool stuff, thanks for the video! Shout-out to the camera person and editing in this video. Very good work!!
WOOOOOWWWW from today this is my favorite channel, forever!
Hi young lady. I am a 66 year old tech working on rf equipment all my life. I would like to say that your work is very clean. Thanks for the fun videos.
love the nails!
Thanks, your explanations and camera shots really help understand the process clearly. The amp sounded great when done!
Nice guitar work too, seems most amp techs can play guitar. Safe to assume one is the result of the other!
Fantastic old chassis, and a job well done! Always a good idea to remove the tubes from their sockets when soldering the pins!
Thanks for sharing!
Better yet, put a dead tube in while soldering the pins. Otherwise solder can drip down into the empty pin socket, and removing it is a nightmare.
Thanks for the vids!
Colleen you are awesome!! you really really got some killer skills girl.. proper nomenclature, good diagnostic skills,, I keep up with some people on here Brad the guitarologist, Mr Carlson's lab etc etc.. I like people that are precise in there knowledge and nomenclature,,👍 you do excellent work young lady and it is a pleasure watching your channel and looking forward to more videos..
Oh yeah and killer nails😁😁
Izzy.
Great work as always. I noticed that the two cathode bypass caps that you replaced were actually different values in the amp than were indicated on the schematic. (10uF vs 25uF) Props on going with what was in the amp, imho. Thanks for sharing and great touch on the demos.
Did you catch the El Pato shrink wrap container. She knows what’s up.
This is dope - well done! Sub'd. I have a 1482 I need to recap but have been procrastinating getting into the weeds of the silvertone build. Cool amps though!
Have you tried it on a different speaker? Sounds very different.
Good work on the restoration; indeed a lot of patience is needed to get to all those tight spaces. Also, good detective work to find the source of the noise. I was thinking that the same detective work would have been useful to find the root cause of the tremolo damage, but with paper capacitors you are right on the money to simply replace them anyways.
I would, however, have used a proper X cap across the mains and a Y cap to the chassis - this can help reduce the line noise coming from our modern gadgets (switching power supplies, dimmers, etc.). I would also have added thermal shrink plastic on the terminals of the switch and the fuse - this can help other technicians in the future to avoid being shocked in case they are servicing the unit. But that is mostly a personal preference, really.
Big no-nos in my book, however, are leaving the vacuum tubes in place while doing the maintenance - not only the chassis can topple and break them, but soldering the sockets imposes thermal stress on the vaccuum tube pins and the glass surrounding them. This can create microscopic leaks that will reduce the lifespan of the tubes.
Overall, great video.
This is such great unintentional ASMR. Your voice paired with the sounds of snipping and placing down tools is just fantastic. Educational too!
Thank you for this. The amp sounded great at the end.
Check out twoodfrd. He's a Canadian luthier and he also has an incredibly calming voice
Wrist watch revival is another jem, I don't care about watches but I've watched hours of that guy take apart watches and put them back together
Τα νυχάκια πρόσεχε μην τα χαλάσεις!!
What a heroic effort! Not only showing all the skill and dexterity, but also all the editing that went in to this. Totally worth saving, that is one honey of a tone. Cheers!☘
Well done video and a very nice amp! I can't help but notice the one wax cap that you left alone, not sure what stage this is in but always a good idea to replace them as they are almost always leaky! The green Sangamo ones are not bad but the two DC blocking caps between the phase inverter and output tubes should also always be replaced to prevent possible bias run away due to DC leakage. Either way Good work!
Que raridade é ver uma mulher técnica em eletrônica! Voçê é um diamante!! 👏👏👏👏👏
Love seeing actual soldering , don't know why 😂 Great vid tho ... Thx for posting ...
Great job on the refurbish! Will you make a cabinet for it? Wes Montgomery, always a good choice. You quite possibly have the best looking fingernails in the Amp Repair category on RUclips. 🎸😎👍💖
Winner. 👑 💣
Excellent video as always. Loved the jazz guitar tester and your nails ! - doubt whether it influences Uncle Doug though !
labor of love indeed, you practically rebuilt that whole amp. very impressive and great playing to demonstrate the fruits of your hard work.
Soooooo cute! If I have trouble with my little Blues jr royal blood with Celestion g12. I will have a hard time not making a very long trip to your shop!😁😂
Love the calm feeling you project! 🥵 Knowing how hard this is and your patience. Respect young lady.🤘🤘
Keep'em coming!
so happy to see younger people that are into the old gear and repairing it..
Buster is a good helper. Keeps one's mind calm. You're doing a fine job but, don't you think it would be a good idea to remove all of the tubes and store them in a safe place while working in the chassis?
Look at Pots, R9 and R10, where the designers applied DC voltage across these volume Pots. That bad practice allows a worn pot to make lots of noise when it's adjusted by the user. Adding large value capacitors in series with and a fixed resistor in parallel with these pots makes adjusting noise magically disappear, even without cleaning or replacing the old pot. Do you see how the Control Grid DC bias of the 1st triode of the 6SN7 is being adjusted by each of these pots? That's very wrong to do because the DC Q-point of the triode is needlessly being shifted around instead of only adjusting the attenuation of the audio signals. Adding a 0.1uF cap in series with the wipers of R9 and R10 then a 1.5M or 2M ohm fixed resistor from the 6SN7 pin 4 to ground will not change the sound of the amp but it'll make worn-pot noise disappear forever while letting the triode have a fixed DC Q-point, the way its' designers intended. The factory apparently thought that was too expensive in the fifties but it's the right way to go. I would replace ALL of the rolled and the electrolytic (especially wax dipped) caps with new, high quality caps and, measure every resistor and replace any that are out of tolerance. These components are frequently sources of noise caused by capacitor leakage current or compound cracks in resistors. The old resistors, especially the carbon comp. types will drift because moisture enters the feedthru where the leads enter. If you do that the amp will sound better than new and do so for a decade. I've worked almost 49 years in electronics, from the semiconductor industry and with vacuum tubes from my childhood. I currently work with electron and x-ray microscopes in my small tech business.
thanks for bringing this one back to life. I've never seen a point-to-point with this many components!
It's not that bad really. I don't even find it tedious. Was more concerned about her ruining the purdy nails :p ... I only have basic electronics knowledge, and I love these old school point-to-point solders and tube design as they are so simple to figure out as long as you know what the tubes does. It's rarely difficult to diagnose noise problems, as you basically just need to replace caps, resolder all joints and have an inventory of the right tubes which is propably the most difficult to have. More modern amp designs often require much more knowledge of all kind of circuits to diagnose
I like so much your 4-legs partner! Buster is lovely!!! How old is he?
Greetings from Argentina!
Forty years of experience in repairing and building audio and radio equipment allow me to rate you with AAA. Excellent work!
Hi Colleen, just stumbled onto your channel...
Nice job on the Amp. It's great to see young people taking up the lost art of troubleshooting and fixing tube equipment...
Yeah, those nasty electrolytic caps always need to be replaced, no question...
The static noise may also come from fractured resistors. Poking around with a swizzle stick will help find physical defects..
Have fun...!!
Love how you put it into the historic perspective too. Old old amp.
That's a nice size amp, the turret boards seem to make for easier service work than busy point to point.
These were built cheaply and by the thousands. Valco, Magna, Danelectro, and dozens of other little amp makers in LA cranked these low-powered amps out with point to point from the 40's through the 60's, affordable to lots of entry players. Hi-fi amps of the day used turret boards and all the fancy stuff, but the steel and electric guitar was seen as a "craze", so getting the product out was the most important thing.
@@87mini I searched up a schematic for the 1333 and found one courtesy of Sears.
RUMBLE! Excellent demo choice. The refurbed amp sounds great!
Great work as always!! Love the fingernails- much prettier than Uncle Doug’s 😁
I just scored an old Vega Commander made in ‘46, so I’m going to need to do pretty much the same.
FYI. Uncle Doug rapes a lot of amps. He changes out transformers in really rare amps, instead of having them re wound. He is clueless
@@johnsmith-bk4ps Rubbish .
@@johnsmith-bk4ps I'm not sure I've seen Uncle Doug change out a transformer unless it was fried. As a part time tech myself, having transformers rewound is costly. Getting the correct replacement makes no discernable difference to the sound.
@@johnsmith-bk4ps BS, dude. His customers have to pay for it, and please tell me how new windings around an old iron core is any different from a quality new Canadian or American transformer. There's no magic in a transformer. Pickups, yes, transformers, if you use the same gauge wire and the same core design, the output is the same. Any artifact of early construction technology is lost in the rewind.
There is a clueless one in the room, and it ain't Uncle Doug.
@@87mini you can get it rewound for the same money. You are clueless about vintage. Changed transformer is a dealbreaker to collectors so why do it when you can repair and sound just as good. Uncle Doug is not the guy to take a rare vintage amp too.
OMG, bakelite plastic knobs. Did I catch this correctly, the power cord was wired sort of wonky with the neutral going through the switch. That's odd, and you changed it. It's normal and expected that you did, but I'm wondering why they did that, short wires maybe. At first I figured well, the way they did it, everything is technically hot even if it's not turned on. That's a shocker. Right before you said it, on the noise issue, I was thinking your going to have to re-soldier some things because soldier gets brittle after years. The older paper caps are notorious for going out. I generally work with SS, not tubes, so it's easier in some fashions as my fingers can do what ever they want without fear of getting shocked. Back in college, my instructor taught me that a good way to check if a tube is going out is by tinking on it with your finder while it's on, assuming the pins are tight, which it looks like you did. The thing I wanted to share with you, is in the event it is still a bad connection, you can always take a straight piece of plastic coat hanger, and gently poke around looking for bad connections while it's on.
I would like to know if you have had any instances when replacing the "death cap" with a proper "X-Y" rated cap has solved any noise or hum issues? And I do appreciate your sharing these repairs with us, and will be looking forward to more content. It is good to see a "qualified and experienced" person doing repair work and giving others insight into doing this work as well.
You can put in 3 safety caps on the mains if you want. Haven't done it yet but my engineer friends recommend it.
1
Tech talk. I did aircraft maintenance... The jets were made when this amp was built lol
Do you often find loose connections due to vibration and chaffing? We did hah!
Dang, I’m blown away by how far this restoration goes.
Old Silvertone amp ! yes, that's what i almost got, mine comes out of a am fm record player with a optional R-L tape- accessory rca jacks,
It's a real pleasure to watch you work with such expertise and precision. But I have to confess that I cringed a little when I saw you working on the amp with those fragile (and expensive) glass tubes still in their sockets!
One little bench mishap, such as the amp falling over, could have been a disaster. Also, drilling a hole for the speaker jack with the tubes still in their sockets would subject them to unnecessary vibration.
Do you have a tube tester? I always check old tubes before replacing caps. The oscillator tube can be bad. Same with those 6v6
I see that the Earth grounding connections you made are not compliant with current safety standards. Here is why: 1.) The supply cord Earth ground conductor must be longer than hot and neutral wires.. The reason is if the cord is pulled out of the strain relief, the ground wire must not lose connection to chasis if the hot and neutral connections become disconnected. 2.) The Earth ground connection to chassis cannot share grounding connection to another connection to chassis. Connecting the ground wire through a lug mounted to the transformer mounting screw/nut is not acceptable. Ground must be bonded to the chassis with a dedicated mechanical connection. Also, connecting the 220 uF cap to the Earth grounding lug would not be allowed.
Hope you don't mind this observation :) I really enjoy your channel and wish you great success with your business!
Very nice! I love these old Dano-built amps. When they are working correctly they have a great tone. A shame the cab didn't survive, but not surprising. They were made out of toilet paper rolls and good wishes.
On reflowing those sockets... first, best practice to remove the tubes to prevent damage. More importantly, you need to remove the old oxidized solder. You have created contaminated joints which will work fine now, but are likely to fail in just a few years.
Nice video, I cringed when I saw how the mains was done originally, but loved how you sorted the hot through the fuse and then to the switch, much safer. You solder exactly the way I do, heat the subject with a hot iron and flood the joint with solder, then get the heat away, very skilled and a joy to watch.
Good work! I would also have changed all the other caps while I was in there. Paper caps of this vintage can easily be leaky. I don't think any of those caps are mica but I could be wrong on the green ones?? Also, modern line cord rules are a little stricter than even what you did. No using a ground lug already being used. Ground wire must be longer than white and black in case line cord gets pulled out of the strain relief. They want the ground wire to be the last wire to get pulled out. Picky details but good to know for the future.
Excellent!! ... And I'm always chuffed to hear a wee bit o' Link Wray in the mix.
It's a good idea to replace all of the plastic signal coupling caps. When they get 50+ years old, the plastic cases start to develop hairline cracks, absorb moisture and then the dialectric gets leaky, letting some DC get through to affect grid bias of the next stage.
I don't speek english... but I can only say : it is very, very good work ! Congratulation !
Whats better than watching a good tech go through a classic amp? Watching one with badass nails do it👍
Link Wray Rules! Saw him perrform. what a legend..
As someone who was born in 1965, I can truly say that you were born in the wrong decade...lol
Damn, that was some spot-on Link Wray! Such a beautiful tone.
I have a question. Did you check the Bias on the output tubes? Just the increase in voltage from the old 40's spec to the modern specs requires a change of the bias resistor.
Congratulations for the amplifier repair, nice to see a woman passionate about electronics, I decided to follow your you tube channel, it would be nice if you shared the amplifier diagram, maybe I can try to replicate it, hello from Italy
I'm glad I found this !
This is better than watching
some angry guy that thinks
The FBI is after him!
Yahoo, its a 1956 Silvertone 1333, will be on the lookout, this has to be really rare amp.
Milady return the ground capacitor 22uf to the transformer armature. is important.
I like to use red heat shrink for any positive side of caps and leads and green for any grounds. Good work girl. Take out the tubes when working on a amp if it falls over like me one time I did cry.
How do you work with those beautiful nails? You need compressed air to clean all the contacts after that cleaning oil. That stuff makes a mess after using it.
Idle Moments. Came for the repair video, staying for the tunes.
Long time no see. Hope there is more to come. I was wondering about amps with speaker jacks like the one you installed. Would it make sense to use a jack with a built in switch that would disconnect the power (even if the amp is turned on) when no speaker is connected. Good idea? Bad idea? Unnecessary?