Dean you are absolutely amazing the way you are explaining in detail how to do this bearings replacement I always enjoy your videos because of your knowledge and the good camera work thank you brother
I have a set of bearing pullers like you have and they are the very best way to get a bearing off a shaft. I have had mine since the 70's like everything else. Thanks for the video.
Dear sir, I want to thank you for your valuable help with the assembly and disassembly of the stern drive 290 D P I built most of the parts in this set by copying from another used drive that I bought with a lot of problems, I've been working on it for several years. Without your guidance I wouldn't have achieved anything, I really appreciate it. I'm assembling the reverser pinion but I can't find out for sure the bearing numbers and I thought I'd ask for your help to find out the numbers for sure, I have SKF 30207 and 30307, FAG 31307. I would be very grateful if you could confirm. If I can reciprocate it would be great. I live in Brazil. Jose Manuel C Alvarez.
I'll begin by saying that this is a great and helpful video: FYI...... Ring gear is typically associated with a Ring & Pinion gear set. The Volvo Penta transmission's main gear is a "drive" gear. The two other gears are "driven" gears. I'll suggest that we NOT drive against bearing cups with a steel tool.... especially a steel chisel. Use a Brass or a Bronze drift style punch. If worried about shock absorption, apply some heat to the bearing box as to ensure a complete seating of the cup. At 17:33 into the video, I had to smile. I thought that I was the only one who had done this. Although I'd use the flat side of the hammer, I see no problem with expanding the crush sleeve/pre-tension sleeve. It requires only a few thousands of expansion. No negative comments from me. At 19:41, we can have problems. Often the roller cage comes apart, leaving us with a very small roller retaining lip for the puller tool to grab onto. At 21:20, he got very lucky. In a case whereby the roller cage does come apart, we cut and removed the roller cage and the rollers. If a special tool like what he made, does not work, then we make two opposing weld beads on the inner race at the roller retaining lip. We then very quickly place the puller jaws against the two weld beads, and then continue with the press. This must be done quickly before the heat dissipates into the gear shaft. At 29:02, I suggest that you see your OEM workshop manual for the correct rolling torque specification. DO NOT confuse string pull scale value for center rotational force specs. The manual does not offer a conversion table. Keep in mind that these rollers must be oiled prior to checking the rolling torque value. Again, this is a very well done video. RicardoMarine
@@TheAyrCaveShop by the way, i from moscow Russia. I bougth old US boat with VP AQ270 drive, and now try to repair it. Its so hard to find some information here, and you video most helpful and clearly from all other! Go on, and a lot of people will thank you
Nice bearings in that assembly. Looks like half the battle is having the right size block of wood, your bench mounted splined stand, and all of the right size and variety of press "adapters" for lack of a better term. Where'd you get those snazzy Mitotoyo digital calipers? :)
Scotty, All but setting the bearing preload is basically the same, the pre 290-A units don't use the crush sleeve, you must adjust the shims under the seal ring to obtain proper bearing pre load. They also use a steel bearing box (bearing holder sleeve)
Seals and bearings are standard Metric sizes, you can match the numbers on the old ones. Lots of suppliers on eBay. Email me and I'll send you the sizes. dean57ayr@gmail.com
If your working on a 290-A, DP or SP that's not normal. someone my have made a shim to increase the thickness of the crush sleeve, rather than replacing it. If your working on a 290 or earlier; there's a shim under the bearing cup for the bearing set closest to the pinion gear that sets the pinion depth. be sure to keep that shim as-is. If there's something else in there god only knows what someone was doing.
Dean you are absolutely amazing the way you are explaining in detail how to do this bearings replacement I always enjoy your videos because of your knowledge and the good camera work thank you brother
Thank You !
In order to press in the new bearing bowls, you can take the old bowls upside down and, if necessary, take the press. Greetings from Germany
Thanks, I may show that on future update
ATB....Dean
Currently in the works of resealing mine. Halfway through the summer boating season, ugh. Great info, thank you.
I have a set of bearing pullers like you have and they are the very best way to get a bearing off a shaft. I have had mine since the 70's like everything else. Thanks for the video.
Dear sir, I want to thank you for your valuable help with the assembly and disassembly of the stern drive 290 D P
I built most of the parts in this set by copying from another used drive that I bought with a lot of problems, I've been working on it for several years.
Without your guidance I wouldn't have achieved anything, I really appreciate it.
I'm assembling the reverser pinion but I can't find out for sure the bearing numbers and I thought I'd ask for your help to find out the numbers for sure, I have SKF 30207 and 30307,
FAG 31307.
I would be very grateful if you could confirm. If I can reciprocate it would be great.
I live in Brazil.
Jose Manuel C Alvarez.
I'll begin by saying that this is a great and helpful video:
FYI...... Ring gear is typically associated with a Ring & Pinion gear set.
The Volvo Penta transmission's main gear is a "drive" gear. The two other gears are "driven" gears.
I'll suggest that we NOT drive against bearing cups with a steel tool.... especially a steel chisel. Use a Brass or a Bronze drift style punch. If worried about shock absorption, apply some heat to the bearing box as to ensure a complete seating of the cup.
At 17:33 into the video, I had to smile. I thought that I was the only one who had done this.
Although I'd use the flat side of the hammer, I see no problem with expanding the crush sleeve/pre-tension sleeve.
It requires only a few thousands of expansion.
No negative comments from me.
At 19:41, we can have problems. Often the roller cage comes apart, leaving us with a very small roller retaining lip for the puller tool to grab onto.
At 21:20, he got very lucky.
In a case whereby the roller cage does come apart, we cut and removed the roller cage and the rollers.
If a special tool like what he made, does not work, then we make two opposing weld beads on the inner race at the roller retaining lip.
We then very quickly place the puller jaws against the two weld beads, and then continue with the press.
This must be done quickly before the heat dissipates into the gear shaft.
At 29:02, I suggest that you see your OEM workshop manual for the correct rolling torque specification.
DO NOT confuse string pull scale value for center rotational force specs.
The manual does not offer a conversion table.
Keep in mind that these rollers must be oiled prior to checking the rolling torque value.
Again, this is a very well done video.
RicardoMarine
Thanks Mark for the great detailed information !!
A great video tutorial😀👍
Very informative thank you very much
So you do this for the public and we're are you located. I enjoy your videos
I still work on a few, as spare time permits. I'm in the CA Bay Area.
Thank a lot for the video! so useful!
Thanks for Viewing
@@TheAyrCaveShop are you going to make a further video? I'm really waiting for the repair of the lower gear unit
@@TheAyrCaveShop by the way, i from moscow Russia. I bougth old US boat with VP AQ270 drive, and now try to repair it. Its so hard to find some information here, and you video most helpful and clearly from all other! Go on, and a lot of people will thank you
@@andreygrishin411 No plan to do so in the near term, maybe at some point. The lowers are a pain, especially the DPs.
Nice bearings in that assembly. Looks like half the battle is having the right size block of wood, your bench mounted splined stand, and all of the right size and variety of press "adapters" for lack of a better term. Where'd you get those snazzy Mitotoyo digital calipers? :)
Real great guy gave them to me 👍👍
290 dp series look very similar...can this process be used on that?
Scotty, All but setting the bearing preload is basically the same, the pre 290-A units don't use the crush sleeve, you must adjust the shims under the seal ring to obtain proper bearing pre load. They also use a steel bearing box (bearing holder sleeve)
Could you tell me where to get the seal and bearings for my dp-a?
Seals and bearings are standard Metric sizes, you can match the numbers on the old ones. Lots of suppliers on eBay.
Email me and I'll send you the sizes. dean57ayr@gmail.com
I just pulled mine apart it had a shim between the two bearings is that ok?
If your working on a 290-A, DP or SP that's not normal. someone my have made a shim to increase the thickness of the crush sleeve, rather than replacing it.
If your working on a 290 or earlier; there's a shim under the bearing cup for the bearing set closest to the pinion gear that sets the pinion depth. be sure to keep that shim as-is.
If there's something else in there god only knows what someone was doing.
Super
👍😜
gmali ,
To make it easier to get the bearing cups in place:
Put them into a freezer so they shrink a bit.
Works miracles!
Thanks for the video 👍