Grain of Wheat Bulbs make sense, since white LED's didn't exist at the time the 8156A was built. Nice work. Also, look forward to the battery resolution video. I have an 8156A also in need of new batteries.
Nice work so far! Be sure to check A13 C1 and C2, on my unit these were 20 volt rated tantalums on a 20 volt rail. C1 had shorted and took out Q3. Also, I found this unit drifted significantly during alignment - I fabricated an "alignment cover" from scrap plexiglass with holes to access the adjustments. I replaced the NiCads with NiMH batteries and they seem to work fine. I also did the LED mod to my unit. Regards, David
As for your comment on the solder: I recommend taking the *thickest* solder that fits the job at hand comfortably. Reason: economy and speed, but even more because thicker solder has more flux content. Reserve the thinnest stuff for SMD.
You can tell from the serial number plate if it came from Germany. If indeed Germany, it came from Böblingen, in the Stuttgart area. HP are still there, albeit they are of courss now the computer outfit. Not sure if Keysight are still there though.
@@taunusmechanics Not only units manufactured there 😎 Most HP equipment that suffers from this effect has a label stating something like "Note: imperial and metric used in this product". And then explains how/what. The funniest (cough) effect is in metric versus imperial HPIB cables..
I suggest NiMH batteries to replace the original, I think that is what I used on the 8165 I did videos fixing a a few years ago, it may have been lithium thionyl instead, don’t remember.
I'll check out the video to see what you used. At the moment I am running the unit sans battery as it only effects startup and does not mess with any of the calibration constants.
@@ZenwizardStudios It was in Part 1, at about 22 minutes, I used NiMH to replace the original NiCd there are two batteries in series. Also I had a RIFA cap explode in my unit which I show on camera, you might want to change that out too if it is still there.
Those sockets tend to be very well built. I am honestly not really sure why this one even broke. The only 2 things that I can come up with are the unit has a fair bit of time on it and the plastic for hot and then brittle over time. Or someone prior to me put some extreme stress on the connector and split it. It was deformed enough that the glue and clamp would most likely split the bottom of the connector as well as chunks were missing off the sides. I had the connectors in stock in the lab as well. All things considered I opted for the replace option.
Almost certainly mechanical overstressing that broke that connector. These things are stable over time, heck, my HP5342A μwave counter uses them, and they are as good as new (i.e. as they were in 1978 or thereabouts 😊)
Your absurd frightener about getting a tiny zap from 110VAC that is like getting a nuclear bomb wiping out your family because you can feck up a minor repair instantly turned me off.
the attitude like yours is the whole reason more people die from 120vac than any other voltage, people lack respect for it. It’s plenty dangerous and deadly. What’s worse, being dead by 120 or dead by 240? I’m guessing they’re pretty close to being equal.
Grain of Wheat Bulbs make sense, since white LED's didn't exist at the time the 8156A was built. Nice work. Also, look forward to the battery resolution video. I have an 8156A also in need of new batteries.
Nice work so far! Be sure to check A13 C1 and C2, on my unit these were 20 volt rated tantalums on a 20 volt rail. C1 had shorted and took out Q3. Also, I found this unit drifted significantly during alignment - I fabricated an "alignment cover" from scrap plexiglass with holes to access the adjustments. I replaced the NiCads with NiMH batteries and they seem to work fine. I also did the LED mod to my unit. Regards, David
My fav function on this instrument is the burst mode, super cool.
As for your comment on the solder: I recommend taking the *thickest* solder that fits the job at hand comfortably. Reason: economy and speed, but even more because thicker solder has more flux content. Reserve the thinnest stuff for SMD.
You can tell from the serial number plate if it came from Germany. If indeed Germany, it came from Böblingen, in the Stuttgart area. HP are still there, albeit they are of courss now the computer outfit. Not sure if Keysight are still there though.
Some of the units manufactured there had a funny mix of metric and imperial hardware 😅
@@taunusmechanics Not only units manufactured there 😎 Most HP equipment that suffers from this effect has a label stating something like "Note: imperial and metric used in this product". And then explains how/what. The funniest (cough) effect is in metric versus imperial HPIB cables..
FRAM as a replacement for SRAM plus battery is often viable, if a little bit more expensive.
Greetings:
The alloy 37/63% is the eutectic ratio with the lowest melting temperature.
I suggest NiMH batteries to replace the original, I think that is what I used on the 8165 I did videos fixing a a few years ago, it may have been lithium thionyl instead, don’t remember.
I'll check out the video to see what you used. At the moment I am running the unit sans battery as it only effects startup and does not mess with any of the calibration constants.
@@ZenwizardStudios It was in Part 1, at about 22 minutes, I used NiMH to replace the original NiCd there are two batteries in series. Also I had a RIFA cap explode in my unit which I show on camera, you might want to change that out too if it is still there.
I do need to remember to scan for those when I am in some of this "newer" gear. I am getting in to the era where RIFA starts to get used often.
NiMH works fine for the HP units I had to replace NiCd in. E.g. my HP8350 μwave sweeper.
why not just glue that connector together? Maybe put a ziptie around it - the plastic might be brittle at this point and break again
Those sockets tend to be very well built. I am honestly not really sure why this one even broke. The only 2 things that I can come up with are the unit has a fair bit of time on it and the plastic for hot and then brittle over time. Or someone prior to me put some extreme stress on the connector and split it. It was deformed enough that the glue and clamp would most likely split the bottom of the connector as well as chunks were missing off the sides. I had the connectors in stock in the lab as well. All things considered I opted for the replace option.
Almost certainly mechanical overstressing that broke that connector. These things are stable over time, heck, my HP5342A μwave counter uses them, and they are as good as new (i.e. as they were in 1978 or thereabouts 😊)
Nice unit..hope it's not a basket case like me.
Discontinued, buy a new one. Hakko becoming Apple. F..k 😡😡😡them Hakko is rubbish now!
The tips are still available and will be for a while. FM-203 power units have gone to a new design.
Your absurd frightener about getting a tiny zap from 110VAC that is like getting a nuclear bomb wiping out your family because you can feck up a minor repair instantly turned me off.
the attitude like yours is the whole reason more people die from 120vac than any other voltage, people lack respect for it. It’s plenty dangerous and deadly. What’s worse, being dead by 120 or dead by 240? I’m guessing they’re pretty close to being equal.
@@danhorton6182 P=I^2V. There is a massive difference.
(Sorry for the trollington)
Jam your screwdriver into a light socket then, nobody cares.
@@larrybud It will instantly trip the breaker. Anything on the mains side after the consumer unit is perfectly safe.
@@Drew-Dastardly breakers aren't instant, that's why we have GFCI outlets.
Jbc has sometimes quite informative videos, I found this one helpful for through hole;
ruclips.net/video/nPz37an_7ng/видео.htmlsi=gBH7ZAldyJJto7i6