Second video I have seen this week where repositioning the chuck by rotating it gives you better runout. A very good lesson to know! Wonderful video, thank you.
That is a nice looking chuck. One note, WD 40 isn't the best choice as a lubricant, it dries and gets sticky. It is intended to prevent surface corrosion (Water Displacer) just a light machine oil or assembly lube would be better practice.
Not to pile on but I was going to say this very thing. I am even questions the use of grease in this case. With the very close tolerances on these parts a very thin oil would be my choice. An oil such as those made for air tools would work or even sewing machine oil. Overall this is a great build.
Agree with all this. It's also a poor disassembly lubricant. I use quite a bit of WD40 as a cheap cleaner, and as a water displacer, but never as a lubricant of any sort.
in the old days, we used to joke: how do you double the value of Skoda? answer - fill it up with petrol 😛😜 well, now we have the answer, to a question: how do you triple the value of "mini lathe" answer - add fancy collet chuck 😇👍 well done and enjoy it! thank you for your videos
Hactualy Skoda machine tools and etc were good stuff back in the day. Look into the history of Skoda as a heavy engineering conglomerate. Armaments to measuring instruments. The cars were something of a sideline ;-)
@@alan-sk7ky I know and full respect to Czechs and Slovaks such a shame that Brits and French gave away the country and it's industry to the Nazis (Munich Agreement) and later all of Eastern/Central Europe to Soviets (Yalta Agreement)
A friend gave me a similar English made lever operated collet chuck and like yours it was stuck solid with old oil/ grease but once cleaned it looked like it had never been used in its 50 or 60 years of life. Seeing your video reminds me i should modify the D1-4 fitting so it will fit my D1-3 lathe, its about time i used it before the grease goes solid again.😉
If your english made collet chuck uses collets that have several individual gripping fingers/blades and hair springs then it will most likely be a Burnerd Multisize chuck and collet set. I have one of these Burnerd Multisize lever chucks and collet set for my Harrison 12 inch swing lathe and it is highly accurate and grips a wide range of diameters.
Thank you, always enjoy watching you work on the lathe. I had one of those machines and hated it up to the day I sold it. The first repair was to the carriage bars, the cheap iron bars broke in the middle of adjusting them so the first fix was bronze bars and it never ceased tormenting me until I sold it.
"They are all nicely ground..." all that stuff inside is dried grease?? Yech...love the content and the determined precision of some of your projects, keep being awesome!
Wow, I have one of these Quick Collet Chucks with collets in a box in my shop. I got it on a pallet load of miscellaneous tools at an auction. It was buried so deep I had no idea it was even there till I sorted the whole lot. I figured it was some type of quick change collet chuck but I had never seen one like it. Until this video I had no idea exactly how to use it, let alone how to mount it or disassemble for cleaning. Thank You this is a very useful video! And Yes WD40 is good for a lot of things but NOT long-term lubrication.
I used one of those chucks on my first few weeks operating a lathe. Being a Turret lather the still moving feature was quite useful. Nice job on the adapter plate. Exactly as it should be done
That collet setup is great for a few reasons, the two reasons you speak about, precision, ease of use with the machine spinning, the last is with a stop set, closing it does not move the part in the z. Hardinge used a similar setup on their machines, with the handle in the back. I looked up the unit finding Simon Nann GmbH & Co. KG (EN) has these. P/N SSF 16 Z. Thank you for the video, very kick ass setup for a small lathe, great work. Cheers to you.
i have just been able to get the collets for my chuck which i have had for more than 30 years. The machine is a Colchester Master, and the chuck is sized, sitting too long. Your video has been most useful. It is the front locking plate that is sized, but we will free it and see what happens Thank you for your information on this video
This is a nice addition to your workholding options on the mini lathe. I have the much larger version of this type of lever chuck which is made by Burnerd and uses collets with hardened spring loaded gripping blades. They are known as Burnerd Multisize collets and run with a very high degree of concentricity. As others have said WD40 is a poor choice of lubricant as it thickens and turns into a gummy shellac like substance. Light machine oil is far better for these purposes.....great video 👌
First video I’ve watched on your channel. 😊 Apart from just about everything else, I particularly like that you finish the parts by adding some curvatures just to make them aesthetically more pleasing. 👌
Das ist jetzt aber ganz klar eher "nice to have" als "must have", stimmt's? 🙂 Ich find das schon so genial, daß hier mal jemand die Späne absaugt, statt sie mit Druckluft in jede Ritze zu blasen. Gut gemacht, gut gefilmt!
Wieder mal ein sehr tolles Video,und was du alles mit deiner Mini -Drehmaschine machst und anfertigst ist echt der Hammer 👍bitte weiter solche Videos 👏
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I have a 5c collet closer that I can do that with but it is a pull through the spindle type and it pulls the part inwards as it's clamped. The problem is that if the stock varies -.001" the collet has to pull in .005 further, that makes holding accurate length difficult. Yours won't do that, the length won't vary.
Molto bravo nelle lavorazioni, è stato piacevole vedere tutto quello che hai fatto, il video è chiaro e si capisce tutto, grazie di avere documentato tutto in questo modo
very nice, if you make a bar feeder and a turret you will end up with a very nice setup for production work, i bought the downriver tools turret plans for the mini lathe and is in my todo list of projects and trying to do a collet chuck like this one would be another fun one.
Congrats for the video. I had no idea how one of these works inside, and I had some over complicated ideas to build one myself. Thanks for calming me down, I’l check if I can get a good deal on one that I’ve found. Same brand but for 173E collets. Cheers!
31:35 Correct closing of the collet occurs when the movable sleeve moves to the right to the edge of the collet nut. You need to unscrew the collet nut a few clicks until you can slide the outer sleeve all the way to the right. In the position in which you show at 31:35 the cartridge is not completely closed and can open randomly!
That's interesting. I was wondering how far the handle should be pushed to the right. What does all the way to the right mean? How do you know when the handle is in the clamped position?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Unscrew the nut until the handle moves to the extreme right position. In this case, tension will be felt when clamping the part. You disassembled the cartridge. Inside the movable movable sleeve there is a cone that presses the balls, and after it there is a cylinder that should hold these balls. In the position shown in the video, the balls are pressed against the cones, and not against the cylinder of the sleeve.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I have never used that brand but the quick acting collet chunks I have used would go over center when adjusted correctly. You could feel when it happened.
Wow, you can crank out the parts with that. We had "rates" at the caulking gun factory I worked at. My favorite machine was the cap knurler with a rate of 300 per hour. The machine spins a 2" pin. You put on a cap, give it a shot of cutting oil, run the knurler into it, and take the cap off while it's spinning. Could do 600 an hour but the machine broke down. The caps were threaded for the barrel ends.
At 22:54, I've never see that technique before. Spinning a lathe tool in the jaws of the chuck and feeding the part into it. Seen milling but not with a lathe tool carbide holder...Wish I could have seen you do that from a different angle.
As 66 said. The reason it was probably frozen solid is someone used WD-40 for the sliding surfaces as you did. WD-40 is a water dispersion solution. It’s great for turning aluminum but once the solvent dissipates the waxy residue is like glue. If you want to ruin a lock, use WD-40. Well done on the chuck. Beautiful job
Beautiful job! Maybe you could have done some extra work to make a Set-Tru style backing plate had you known in advance of the possibility of run-out. Does this chuck have a detent action to keep the collet closed, or do you have to maintain some tension on the lever?
in collet machines for watch purposes, the lever is at the back, and the thread for fastening the collets is located on the collet itself, to change the collet you just need to turn on the revolutions, grab the part rotating from behind with your hand, the collet will unscrew itself, insert a new one, turn on direct revolutions, and it tightens. the rear lever (located behind the tailstock) is very convenient. since nothing is stopping you from removing the parts from the collet. + nothing sticks out from the front of the machine, everything that rotates is recessed inside, very safe. to understand what I mean, look at the Schaublin 125 machine
You know this would be very handy for trimming bullet jackets or copper tubing to same length. I wasn't aware such chucks existed but you could use a wooden dowel to insert and remove.
I’d recommend some lithium grease or boelube, boelube is traditionally a cutting grease but it works wonders in other applications, a little heat makes it flow like wd 40 and at room temp it’s like lithium grease. If you want to make your own grease compound, mix some very very fine graphite or graphene powder with the grease of your choice. Adding graphite or graphene increases the lifespan of the grease among other things. Also if the grease dries up it makes separation a lot easier as it acts as a dry lube.
It's a good idea to also clean inside and outside the collet before mounting. Source: aside from me being a machinist since 1999, my coworker has MUCH more experience than me and has worked MUCH more precise pieces, either it be for the military, pharmaceutical, food industry, aviation, and so on. He once, in that company, had to do like a hundred pieces, and the ALL had tolerances to the microns. For every piece he did, he carefully cleaned the piece, the collet, and the collet chuck, first wiping with a cloth and then using the air gun. Their clients don't fool around either: if one or at max two pieces are out of tolerance, they send back everything.
I'm always excited to see a new video. Your projects that you show come out very clean, accurate, and professional looking. I have scoured all of your videos, but I seem to have missed what brand your lathe and milling machine are. I think the mill is a Praxon, but I don't even have a guess as to the lathe? Hope you see this comment and can answer it. Thank you for another excellent video, and I look forward to the next.
I have the larger version of this speed chuck (up to 42mm) but I hardly ever use it while running. But these chucks are so accurate that I suggest that you make a new adapter plate with no runout. My chuck has no runout, and I also made my own adapter plate.
Klasse Arbeit wie immer. Aber bitte lass die Finger von dem mistigen WD40. Habs dir schonmal geschrieben: Hol dir Mannol 9932 Rust Dissolver. Das ist das Mittel der Wahl zum lösen und reinigen. 40 nehm ich nur zum reinigen von meiner mini Werkbank mit der Resopal-Oberfläche. Ansonsten, Video top.
Excelent stuff🙏 You are what i call "Puritane" (Perfectiinist).. I wish i could donate some high end Japanese Stones to achieve beautiful uniform finishes (Near mirror witch keep everything oxidation free) Great Work🙏❤
Makes you wonder if mismatched parts were assembled/reassembled at some point. As has been said in the comments already.. way oil or some kind of light machine oil better than the old wd-40 (solvents)
One question: Is there a Video of that "Mount" you moutned the Adapterplate in to drill it? I am satisfied how exactly and fast you turned the Part and drilled so exactly ( i am new to all this, so sorry if this is a dumb question)
What about if the chuck has all or part of the runoff (0:55)?. Why don't you try the indicator on the chuck itself, instead of the piece held by the jaws?
It doesn't matter if the chuck it 100% true to centre or not, the way the scroll in a 3-jaw chuck works it will engage the part 1 jaw at a time. Making the work piece eccentric. Hence when comparing a collect chuck to a jaw chuck you indicate on the work piece. I hope this answers your query.
One quick safety note with the vacuum cleaner. Picking up machining chips, it is best not to mix aluminum and iron in the same bag. Chips probably will not be a problem but mixed sanding dust is essentially thermite. A hot spark might make for a very bad day.
I do love you channel, and you get SO much right and great advice, just pretty please stop referring to WD40 as oil... or in fact using it in place of oil on assemblies. That is exactly what it is not. It's an oil/water displacer, and completely evaporates after a while, leaving nothing oil like behind. Adding it in place of an actual oil is no better than having nothing there. A google search on the topic will educate you a lot better than i can, it's commonly misused and misdescribed by a great many mechanics and engineers who just repeat what they've heard, so I don't blame you lol :)
finally a dude that seems like he knows what he know and what he dont know. rare these days. heyo dude, whats your opinion on WD-40? i avoid using it because someone gave me the impression that it can damage the metal aswell. I never found evidence of that and no real info on the internet, but i still use ballistol instead just to be sure
I hesitated to use too much heat to not destroy anything or get some discolorations or toxic grease smoke or whatever. Thought the 40 degree from the heater would help but that was not enough. I think in the end I got the sleeve out without any damage to the rest of the chuck.
Um das Problem mit dem nicht laufenden 3-Backenfutter zu lösen, solltest du zunächst die Durchmesser überprüfen, an denen das Futter befestigt ist. Es scheint, dass dort zu viel Spiel vorhanden ist. Normalerweise ist ein 3-Backenfutter sehr präzise in der Wiederholgenauigkeit, es sei denn, der Spiralring ist stark abgenutzt, was in deinem Fall wahrscheinlich nicht zutrifft. Wenn die Befestigung am Futter und an der Maschine spielfrei ist, könnte es auch helfen, die Backen auszudrehen.
Hehe, wenn das video viral geht, kann ich vllt drüber nachdenken ;) Kein Geld für eine Schaublin. Eine kleine CNC wäre mir auch fast lieber, die arbeitet dann ganz allein :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Hier bei mir kostet das Bett mit Spindel um die 500 CHF. Werkzeugrevolver um die 300. Motor 50 FU 50.- Also mit etwa 900Chf biste am Start. Ja das dachte ich auch schon 😅 Cnc summt vor sich hin und ich koch Kaffe auf. Welche nleine Cnc fällt Dir denn ein?
I've thousands of .14xx" diameter mild steel wires about ten inches long each that i would process in that, probably threading with a die, and using a multi turret tailstock attachment in mt2 taper.
Oils do not dissolve in alcohol but in benzine .WD40 is not a lubricant. A thin film of spindle oil on the flange surfaces would certainly be better because it does not stick.
Very interesting system for suck. a chuck. given we started with the subject being the ER collet chuck. I got 100 of a tenth run out on my ER 40 collet chuck. Now what interests me is this given the system to set the collet tension requires a pre-set position & the collet lowed move forward on to that 'pre-set position. i would suggest this ponticular chuck could be adapted to accept the ER collets using a redesigned nut to pre-set the ER collet. given the foreword motion of the lever tightens the central sleeve as it pushes its centre forward in fact by making a new centre to replace the one you have I suggest even an ER 40 collet could be maid work in that collet chuck the only verity would be a range of central sleeves & nuts to set the individual collet's with the nuts I do not suppose you would be doing that in this case. it would make the ER collet an attractive possibility, & remove you former gripe in regard to the operation & function on removal. preps you should consider & Make a film on the adapting of such a Chuck to ues ER collet that will be 32 in your case you have pecked my interest i have been thinking of making a quick change collet chuck i will see if you tack the bat & work with the one you have in your position if it work it may inspire me to by one. & invest in one two, & the collet's look hand to. Les England .
Second video I have seen this week where repositioning the chuck by rotating it gives you better runout. A very good lesson to know!
Wonderful video, thank you.
Great video, very entertaining. "Better to have one than to need one!" is a great motto to live by! 🙂
:D Thank you very much;)
it really isn't imo. that's why we are all hoarding stuff we will never need...
@@ChriFux Not just hoarding but buying more 😁
I had the pleasure to work on a WEILER lathe about 10 years ago where this exact quick collet chuck was mounted. amazing.
Hi and thanks for your comment! That's a cool story, Weiler is a different story ;) Congrats! :)
That is a nice looking chuck. One note, WD 40 isn't the best choice as a lubricant, it dries and gets sticky. It is intended to prevent surface corrosion (Water Displacer) just a light machine oil or assembly lube would be better practice.
Thanks for your comment and the hint on the lubricant. Perhaps I will fill a little bit of way oil in.
Hydraulic oil also works. Non detergent.
Wd40 and the word oil should never be used together. Wd40 us a water displacement liquid or wikd cleaner, no lubrication function at all
Not to pile on but I was going to say this very thing. I am even questions the use of grease in this case. With the very close tolerances on these parts a very thin oil would be my choice. An oil such as those made for air tools would work or even sewing machine oil.
Overall this is a great build.
Agree with all this. It's also a poor disassembly lubricant. I use quite a bit of WD40 as a cheap cleaner, and as a water displacer, but never as a lubricant of any sort.
in the old days, we used to joke:
how do you double the value of Skoda?
answer - fill it up with petrol 😛😜
well, now we have the answer, to a question:
how do you triple the value of "mini lathe"
answer - add fancy collet chuck 😇👍
well done and enjoy it!
thank you for your videos
Haha :D Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that. Happy to hear, you enjoyed my work.
Hactualy Skoda machine tools and etc were good stuff back in the day. Look into the history of Skoda as a heavy engineering conglomerate. Armaments to measuring instruments. The cars were something of a sideline ;-)
@@alan-sk7ky I know and full respect to Czechs and Slovaks
such a shame that Brits and French gave away the country and it's industry to the Nazis (Munich Agreement)
and later all of Eastern/Central Europe to Soviets (Yalta Agreement)
Another adage is to fit twin exhaust pipes and use it as a wheel barrow or better still fit a sun roof and use it as a skip.
Very interesting project. Well edited and narrated. Does not need any music.
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! I really do appreciate that!
Not only does not need any music, adding music would give no benefit, and would just be a detriment
A friend gave me a similar English made lever operated collet chuck and like yours it was stuck solid with old oil/ grease but once cleaned it looked like it had never been used in its 50 or 60 years of life. Seeing your video reminds me i should modify the D1-4 fitting so it will fit my D1-3 lathe, its about time i used it before the grease goes solid again.😉
If your english made collet chuck uses collets that have several individual gripping fingers/blades and hair springs then it will most likely be a Burnerd Multisize chuck and collet set. I have one of these Burnerd Multisize lever chucks and collet set for my Harrison 12 inch swing lathe and it is highly accurate and grips a wide range of diameters.
@@howardosborne8647 it is indeed, and before you mention it, it was indeed a very generous gift.
Nice project. Impressed with the sketchy set up for cutting the arc in the part.
Thanks! That went surprisingly well... :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetterFrequently said by surgeons after reattaching fingers... I kid, though. I was really impressed, too!
Thank you, always enjoy watching you work on the lathe. I had one of those machines and hated it up to the day I sold it. The first repair was to the carriage bars, the cheap iron bars broke in the middle of adjusting them so the first fix was bronze bars and it never ceased tormenting me until I sold it.
"They are all nicely ground..." all that stuff inside is dried grease?? Yech...love the content and the determined precision of some of your projects, keep being awesome!
Wow, I have one of these Quick Collet Chucks with collets in a box in my shop. I got it on a pallet load of miscellaneous tools at an auction. It was buried so deep I had no idea it was even there till I sorted the whole lot. I figured it was some type of quick change collet chuck but I had never seen one like it. Until this video I had no idea exactly how to use it, let alone how to mount it or disassemble for cleaning. Thank You this is a very useful video! And Yes WD40 is good for a lot of things but NOT long-term lubrication.
I used one of those chucks on my first few weeks operating a lathe. Being a Turret lather the still moving feature was quite useful.
Nice job on the adapter plate. Exactly as it should be done
Thank you very much for your kind comment and feedback!
Very nice addition to the mini! Thanks for posting something I did not know existed! Take care!
Thank you very much! :)
That collet setup is great for a few reasons, the two reasons you speak about, precision, ease of use with the machine spinning, the last is with a stop set, closing it does not move the part in the z. Hardinge used a similar setup on their machines, with the handle in the back. I looked up the unit finding Simon Nann GmbH & Co. KG (EN) has these. P/N SSF 16 Z. Thank you for the video, very kick ass setup for a small lathe, great work. Cheers to you.
i have just been able to get the collets for my chuck which i have had for more than 30 years. The machine is a Colchester Master, and the chuck is sized, sitting too long. Your video has been most useful. It is the front locking plate that is sized, but we will free it and see what happens Thank you for your information on this video
This is a nice addition to your workholding options on the mini lathe. I have the much larger version of this type of lever chuck which is made by Burnerd and uses collets with hardened spring loaded gripping blades. They are known as Burnerd Multisize collets and run with a very high degree of concentricity.
As others have said WD40 is a poor choice of lubricant as it thickens and turns into a gummy shellac like substance. Light machine oil is far better for these purposes.....great video 👌
First video I’ve watched on your channel. 😊
Apart from just about everything else, I particularly like that you finish the parts by adding some curvatures just to make them aesthetically more pleasing. 👌
Das ist jetzt aber ganz klar eher "nice to have" als "must have", stimmt's? 🙂 Ich find das schon so genial, daß hier mal jemand die Späne absaugt, statt sie mit Druckluft in jede Ritze zu blasen. Gut gemacht, gut gefilmt!
Hehe, vielen Dank! Freut mich, danke für die Rückmeldung :) Und ja, das ist reiner Luxus das Teil. Konnte halt nicht widerstehen... :)
Wieder mal ein sehr tolles Video,und was du alles mit deiner
Mini -Drehmaschine machst und anfertigst ist echt der Hammer 👍bitte weiter solche Videos 👏
Vielen Dank für deinen netten Kommentar! Freut mich, dass dir meine Videos gefallen :)!
Super Arbeit!
Da ist das Futter ja an den richtigen geraten 👍
Das ist ja klasse! Vielen Dank! Bin sehr zufrieden, wie das Futter jetzt läuft :)
I won’t lie, your voice is sooo smooth and mesmerising! I wish you had narrated all of your videos! Great video!
I'm humbled! Thank you very much;)
Nice work! You really do “do that better!” Lol 👍🍻
Thank you very much!
I like it! I find it extremely useful to be able to change parts while running.
Thank you very much! Yes, that's a pretty cool feature:)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I have a 5c collet closer that I can do that with but it is a pull through the spindle type and it pulls the part inwards as it's clamped. The problem is that if the stock varies -.001" the collet has to pull in .005 further, that makes holding accurate length difficult. Yours won't do that, the length won't vary.
Molto bravo nelle lavorazioni, è stato piacevole vedere tutto quello che hai fatto, il video è chiaro e si capisce tutto, grazie di avere documentato tutto in questo modo
Thanks for great video! Sounds like some excessively tight German machining ;-)
Thanks! Yes it is ;)
very nice, if you make a bar feeder and a turret you will end up with a very nice setup for production work, i bought the downriver tools turret plans for the mini lathe and is in my todo list of projects and trying to do a collet chuck like this one would be another fun one.
Great video! Thank you for your time making this.
I want to see your daily work in the shop. Can you make some kind of vlog style video about this?
Congrats for the video. I had no idea how one of these works inside, and I had some over complicated ideas to build one myself. Thanks for calming me down, I’l check if I can get a good deal on one that I’ve found.
Same brand but for 173E collets.
Cheers!
Excellent work.Thank you.
Thanks!
Very nice job and excellent description. Thank you.
31:35 Correct closing of the collet occurs when the movable sleeve moves to the right to the edge of the collet nut. You need to unscrew the collet nut a few clicks until you can slide the outer sleeve all the way to the right. In the position in which you show at 31:35 the cartridge is not completely closed and can open randomly!
That's interesting. I was wondering how far the handle should be pushed to the right. What does all the way to the right mean? How do you know when the handle is in the clamped position?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Unscrew the nut until the handle moves to the extreme right position. In this case, tension will be felt when clamping the part. You disassembled the cartridge. Inside the movable movable sleeve there is a cone that presses the balls, and after it there is a cylinder that should hold these balls. In the position shown in the video, the balls are pressed against the cones, and not against the cylinder of the sleeve.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
I have never used that brand but the quick acting collet chunks I have used would go over center when adjusted correctly. You could feel when it happened.
Beautiful presentation! Pretty inspirational really. Danke!
Great job on the work and the video!
Thank you very much!
Wow, you can crank out the parts with that. We had "rates" at the caulking gun factory I worked at. My favorite machine was the cap knurler with a rate of 300 per hour. The machine spins a 2" pin. You put on a cap, give it a shot of cutting oil, run the knurler into it, and take the cap off while it's spinning. Could do 600 an hour but the machine broke down. The caps were threaded for the barrel ends.
At 22:54, I've never see that technique before. Spinning a lathe tool in the jaws of the chuck and feeding the part into it. Seen milling but not with a lathe tool carbide holder...Wish I could have seen you do that from a different angle.
man, i am really envious of your chuck... which is strange because i don't own a lathe.
:D Thanks ;)
As 66 said. The reason it was probably frozen solid is someone used WD-40 for the sliding surfaces as you did.
WD-40 is a water dispersion solution. It’s great for turning aluminum but once the solvent dissipates the waxy residue is like glue. If you want to ruin a lock, use WD-40.
Well done on the chuck. Beautiful job
Brother you are a genius
Very nicely done!
Thanks!
Beautiful job! Maybe you could have done some extra work to make a Set-Tru style backing plate had you known in advance of the possibility of run-out. Does this chuck have a detent action to keep the collet closed, or do you have to maintain some tension on the lever?
Now the little lathe needs an auto bar feed!
Hehe, and mass production can start :)
in collet machines for watch purposes, the lever is at the back, and the thread for fastening the collets is located on the collet itself, to change the collet you just need to turn on the revolutions, grab the part rotating from behind with your hand, the collet will unscrew itself, insert a new one, turn on direct revolutions, and it tightens. the rear lever (located behind the tailstock) is very convenient. since nothing is stopping you from removing the parts from the collet. + nothing sticks out from the front of the machine, everything that rotates is recessed inside, very safe. to understand what I mean, look at the Schaublin 125 machine
You know this would be very handy for trimming bullet jackets or copper tubing to same length. I wasn't aware such chucks existed but you could use a wooden dowel to insert and remove.
I’d recommend some lithium grease or boelube, boelube is traditionally a cutting grease but it works wonders in other applications, a little heat makes it flow like wd 40 and at room temp it’s like lithium grease. If you want to make your own grease compound, mix some very very fine graphite or graphene powder with the grease of your choice. Adding graphite or graphene increases the lifespan of the grease among other things. Also if the grease dries up it makes separation a lot easier as it acts as a dry lube.
It's a good idea to also clean inside and outside the collet before mounting.
Source: aside from me being a machinist since 1999, my coworker has MUCH more experience than me and has worked MUCH more precise pieces, either it be for the military, pharmaceutical, food industry, aviation, and so on. He once, in that company, had to do like a hundred pieces, and the ALL had tolerances to the microns. For every piece he did, he carefully cleaned the piece, the collet, and the collet chuck, first wiping with a cloth and then using the air gun.
Their clients don't fool around either: if one or at max two pieces are out of tolerance, they send back everything.
I'm always excited to see a new video. Your projects that you show come out very clean, accurate, and professional looking. I have scoured all of your videos, but I seem to have missed what brand your lathe and milling machine are. I think the mill is a Praxon, but I don't even have a guess as to the lathe? Hope you see this comment and can answer it. Thank you for another excellent video, and I look forward to the next.
I have the larger version of this speed chuck (up to 42mm) but I hardly ever use it while running. But these chucks are so accurate that I suggest that you make a new adapter plate with no runout. My chuck has no runout, and I also made my own adapter plate.
Thanks for your comment! I have to see. I found a position in which it runs pretty true. I guess that is accurate enough.
@@WeCanDoThatBetterYou can do that better!
Klasse Arbeit wie immer. Aber bitte lass die Finger von dem mistigen WD40. Habs dir schonmal geschrieben: Hol dir Mannol 9932 Rust Dissolver. Das ist das Mittel der Wahl zum lösen und reinigen. 40 nehm ich nur zum reinigen von meiner mini Werkbank mit der Resopal-Oberfläche. Ansonsten, Video top.
Hi, vielen Dank für den Kommentar! Und danke nochmal für den Tipp mit dem Öl. Muss mir mal eine Dose Mannol zulegen :)
Very cool! Why are you using such a small endmill for face milling a roughly 5 times bigger surface?
This lever operated chuck was made by EMCO in Austria. I have it and are going to mount it on my V10p. Only need to make a backplate.
Coole Sache Man.👍👍👍
Alles gute und bleib gesund.
Excelent stuff🙏 You are what i call "Puritane" (Perfectiinist).. I wish i could donate some high end Japanese Stones to achieve beautiful uniform finishes (Near mirror witch keep everything oxidation free) Great Work🙏❤
Nice work.
Makes you wonder if mismatched parts were assembled/reassembled at some point. As has been said in the comments already.. way oil or some kind of light machine oil better than the old wd-40 (solvents)
That's a good question. Don't know what really happened to this collet chuck. But now it works just fine.
sweet setup!
Yes, thanks!
For removing and installing the collets. Make a handle with 3 tabs on the end that go into the slots in the face of the collet.
Good idea, thanks!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
You can buy them for 5C collets I have never looked for others.
But it would make a good video anyways.
I wonder if an ultrasonic cleaner w/ some degreaser would have free'd up the stuck parts for initial disassembly.
One question: Is there a Video of that "Mount" you moutned the Adapterplate in to drill it? I am satisfied how exactly and fast you turned the Part and drilled so exactly ( i am new to all this, so sorry if this is a dumb question)
Do you worry at all about mixing aluminum and steel parts for galvanic corrosion? Or does the blue on the steel fix that problem?
👍Kolejny ciekawy film. Pozdrowienia z Polski
Very Nice! WD-40 is not a very good lubricant. It is basically a solvent. You may want something slipperier on the brass ring.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I will use something else. Many have said that :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetterIf i could recommend: Graphene Lubricant is best.. Frictionless 👍🙏
What about if the chuck has all or part of the runoff (0:55)?. Why don't you try the indicator on the chuck itself, instead of the piece held by the jaws?
It doesn't matter if the chuck it 100% true to centre or not, the way the scroll in a 3-jaw chuck works it will engage the part 1 jaw at a time.
Making the work piece eccentric.
Hence when comparing a collect chuck to a jaw chuck you indicate on the work piece.
I hope this answers your query.
Hi, Nice work man i enjoy your idea, how many watt your milling machine !
One quick safety note with the vacuum cleaner. Picking up machining chips, it is best not to mix aluminum and iron in the same bag. Chips probably will not be a problem but mixed sanding dust is essentially thermite. A hot spark might make for a very bad day.
@danal You can't be serious. Thermite contains iron oxide not plain iron. And you would fine particles, not shavings.
It's hard enough to make and ignite thermite deliberately. By accident is impossible
I have one for my Emco V10, seemed like a good idea at the time but I have never used it so I suspect you wont either :)
Time will tell:) But yes, it is a rather special chuck.
I do love you channel, and you get SO much right and great advice, just pretty please stop referring to WD40 as oil... or in fact using it in place of oil on assemblies. That is exactly what it is not. It's an oil/water displacer, and completely evaporates after a while, leaving nothing oil like behind. Adding it in place of an actual oil is no better than having nothing there.
A google search on the topic will educate you a lot better than i can, it's commonly misused and misdescribed by a great many mechanics and engineers who just repeat what they've heard, so I don't blame you lol :)
You could use neodymium magnet to pull out the ball bearings.
at 14:05 I see the retaiing pins are drilled in your 4-jaw. Did you do that or did it come like that? Are they hardened?
I couldn't stop fixating on the blood drop on your finger 20min in. Did you survive?
Can you recommend a cold blue to purchase?
finally a dude that seems like he knows what he know and what he dont know. rare these days. heyo dude, whats your opinion on WD-40? i avoid using it because someone gave me the impression that it can damage the metal aswell. I never found evidence of that and no real info on the internet, but i still use ballistol instead just to be sure
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for your comment! :)
Why didn't you heat the body to get the inner sleeve out?
I hesitated to use too much heat to not destroy anything or get some discolorations or toxic grease smoke or whatever. Thought the 40 degree from the heater would help but that was not enough. I think in the end I got the sleeve out without any damage to the rest of the chuck.
Is the hole in chuck pivot bolt to oil the bronze part?
Um das Problem mit dem nicht laufenden 3-Backenfutter zu lösen, solltest du zunächst die Durchmesser überprüfen, an denen das Futter befestigt ist. Es scheint, dass dort zu viel Spiel vorhanden ist. Normalerweise ist ein 3-Backenfutter sehr präzise in der Wiederholgenauigkeit, es sei denn, der Spiralring ist stark abgenutzt, was in deinem Fall wahrscheinlich nicht zutrifft. Wenn die Befestigung am Futter und an der Maschine spielfrei ist, könnte es auch helfen, die Backen auszudrehen.
Very nice! I'm gonna "need" one now. 😬😅
Did you "undercut" the corner of the backplate you made? That could be the source of the runout.
That is a good question. Normally I will do but I have to check that:) Thanks for your kind comment!
Почему биение фрезы такое большое в обоих вариантах патрона? Может дело в шпинделе? Есть видео проверки биения шпинделя?
How did you get the headstock plate to accept the chuck adapter plate when the through holes impinged on the inner diameter?
The screws which hold the chuck on the plate are so short that they don't interfere with the spindle nose.
спасибо вам . очень интересная штука
Klasse Video. Welche Drehmaschine ist das? Bin auf der Suche nach einer kleinen gebrauchten, daher frage ich nach. VGA
INfo: Leg dir eine Schaublin 102 zu das macht vieles noch einfacher bei Kleinseriearbeit.
Hehe, wenn das video viral geht, kann ich vllt drüber nachdenken ;) Kein Geld für eine Schaublin. Eine kleine CNC wäre mir auch fast lieber, die arbeitet dann ganz allein :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Hier bei mir kostet das Bett mit Spindel um die 500 CHF. Werkzeugrevolver um die 300.
Motor 50 FU 50.-
Also mit etwa 900Chf biste am Start. Ja das dachte ich auch schon 😅 Cnc summt vor sich hin und ich koch Kaffe auf.
Welche nleine Cnc fällt Dir denn ein?
Seems like bumping this chuck would be a common problem. Probably best to put the handle vertical.
I've thousands of .14xx" diameter mild steel wires about ten inches long each that i would process in that, probably threading with a die, and using a multi turret tailstock attachment in mt2 taper.
How many weeks of work was this video?
nice job!
Thanks!
Nice to do a CNC Lathe with automatic feeder.
WD40 is not a long term lubricant. It's made mostly out of petroleum. Better to use 3:1 or any other thin oil.
Yes, thanks. I will keep that in mind.
Please reply
I want to buy this attechment for my lathe
How much price one piece
Nice!
Thank you very much!
Hallo, meine name ist Schermann ,ich komme aus Brasilien, wie viel Kostet die stück?, zehr gut vídeo, dank schön
Oils do not dissolve in alcohol but in benzine .WD40 is not a lubricant. A thin film of spindle oil on the flange surfaces would certainly be better because it does not stick.
'Better to have it rather than need it' Please explain that to 'Er Indoors ;)
That happens when two parts of an assemblly have the tolerances max out in the opposite way ID has + and the eOD has -.
Nombre de accesorio de ajuste donde se consigue
👍Отличная вещь.
"It's better to have it than to need it"
That lathe is now better then a schaublin i am telling you my friend .
:D Haha, I'm getting close ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter what else is there to be added? a dro?
Isn't the handle in the way? Shouldn't it be on top?
Very interesting system for suck. a chuck. given we started with the subject being the ER collet chuck. I got 100 of a tenth run out on my ER 40 collet chuck. Now what interests me is this given the system to set the collet tension requires a pre-set position & the collet lowed move forward on to that 'pre-set position. i would suggest this ponticular chuck could be adapted to accept the ER collets using a redesigned nut to pre-set the ER collet. given the foreword motion of the lever tightens the central sleeve as it pushes its centre forward in fact by making a new centre to replace the one you have I suggest even an ER 40 collet could be maid work in that collet chuck the only verity would be a range of central sleeves & nuts to set the individual collet's with the nuts I do not suppose you would be doing that in this case. it would make the ER collet an attractive possibility, & remove you former gripe in regard to the operation & function on removal. preps you should consider & Make a film on the adapting of such a Chuck to ues ER collet that will be 32 in your case you have pecked my interest i have been thinking of making a quick change collet chuck i will see if you tack the bat & work with the one you have in your position if it work it may inspire me to by one. & invest in one two, & the collet's look hand to. Les England .