Parts list and blueprint for this system can be found here: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html Be sure to check with local laws and regulations for your electrical code. Some places are more strict or lax than others! My system is not connected to the grid in any way, so I am not going to get an inspection. This is considered the same system as a car battery connected to a 12V inverter. There is nothing special about it. If you need to earth ground your system, have an electrician assess your environment and system and figure out what is most appropriate. And any other special safety equipment. Always hire a professional if you do not understand something! In the blueprints above, I go into this point with more details. Please read it! 0:00 Intro 1:42 Mounting Devices Safely 2:36 Component Overview 3:17 Inverter Connection and Cable Sizing 3:52 Fuse/Circuit Breaker 4:11 Battery Cable Sizing 5:46 Server Battery Connection 5:00 PV Disconnect and Limits 6:21 AC Output Connection and Discussion 11:41 Programming the Inverters for Split Phase Output 13:14 Powering On and Testing Output Voltage 14:00 Conclusion *Does off-grid solar confuse you?* Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com *Join our DIY solar community* #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com *Check out my Book* Best-selling and beginner-friendly guide to 12V off-grid solar! amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Energy! They will price out a system and get your house offgrid: ts.la/william57509 *My DIY Solar Equipment Recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):* 12V/48V Lithium Solar Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Complete Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html Plug-N-Play System Recommendations: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete "Add to Cart" 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html *My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar Products:* *Signature Solar* Offgrid One-Stop-Shop. Best Value 48V LiFePO4, Victron and Offgrid Specific Heat Pumps: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Current Connected* SOK, Victron, Mr.Cool Heatpumps and High Quality Components. Fantastic customer support: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp *Litime* My favorite 12V budget battery!: www.litime.com/?ref=XBIA62RFcalHns *Epoch Batteries* My favorite high-quality 12V battery: www.epochbatteries.com/products/12v-460ah-lifepo4-battery-ip67-heated-bluetooth-victron-comms?rfsn=7352625.50494d *Renogy* A classic 12V solar store that has been around for ages! DC to DC Chargers and more! renogy.sjv.io/n1VjXx *Rich Solar* Renogy's biggest competitor! Similar products, but at a better price: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Battery Hookup* Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 5% off code: diysolar *Contact Information:* I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar *FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:* Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
Will - I wish we were three years before now... Deanna and I would have gone an entirely different direction on the off grid in Northern Nevada... gonna have to save some more pennies and install this type of system! Thanks so much for all you do!!
As a home inspector and residential contractor with 15 years in the housing industry, I can say I am impressed. As I was watching the video, I had several concerns/issues, ready and waiting in my mind. Will addressed them all one by one in very satisfactory manner. Main disconnects, grounds and neutrals being separated, or not being separated and so on. Top-notch video.
Will, Thank you on the outstanding jobs you've done on your videos. Essentially this series. You really knocked it out the park. Your getting a lot of praise for your work and deservedly so. I'm just adding to the long list. By far the best on RUclips on the subject matter.
I’m very impressed each time you build one of your systems. They are so clean and simply set up anyone can do it. You are amazing explaining everything including the mistakes possible and all the safety precautions. I always recommend your channel to anyone doing solar.
So amazing! I can't believe how far this tech has come in just a couple of years. You're videos are very encouraging and I can't wait to get started on my own project. Thanks Will.
Fantastic job Will. A ton of work went into this video. The information is clear and concise. Your blueprint on your website is super detailed. Links to all the parts are included. There is nothing missing. Outstanding work. Thank you for all you do.
This is so awesome. My wife and I are planning on our dream off-grid house and this will defiantly get us started if not do the full job. Thanks again for all you do and provide to us!!!
Will - thank you for your work! I credit this video for giving me and my family the confidence to DIY our off-grid project. And I’ve watched it at least 25 times on my way to a successful install. Today we turned the lights on and all went great. Exciting day. THANK YOU!
I really appreciate the time you spent making the list and video. The bonus for all of us is that if/when you find a specific component is not "aging well", you can update the list or make notations for improved updated products. Thanks again!
Bought that unit and was happy to see you tested it and gave a thumbs up . I do agree they are very simple to wire and and Singnature Solar has 24 /7 help for anyone and they notify you on any issues to be rectified . I am looking forward to have my system running this November when my house is complete . You do a great job explaining , and I feel most people can relate . Cheers Rob
Well, clearly you are a genius. As a mere mortal, you lost me about half way through, but I am on the learning curve. I plan to build an off grid place and your videos are of great help. Thank you.
Will, you are the man. I'm an engineer but you have taught me so much about "real world" solar installation it ain't funny! Thank you for your videos and God bless!!
Thanks Will! You’re getting better and better at explaining this stuff. I can’t emphasize enough that we need to get everybody we can off grid for what’s coming! 🤙
People need to form groups and share wealth to buy good large off grid properties and get multi-occupancy titles and network their skills and labour together. Problem is most people have been trusting governments, banks, the police and the military to safeguard their egos and will resent sharing their wealth for a common cause. By the time the great reset reveals its true colours it will be too late for them.
I am years away financially to be able to build an off grid system, that said I will have learned so much from the quality content you put out about sustainable power systems. Many thanks Will😊
Will, I can't thank you enough for making this series. I've been on the verge of buying and building a system for a while and this fits the bill perfectly. The way you lay everything out is perfect for a beginner that has only done minor electrical work in the past. I now have the confidence to start ordering my supplies and gaining my independence from the ever-rising electrical rates.
Yup, I'll be moving full-time to my lodge in a few years. I think solar will be at the perfect price point and capability 2 years out. Right now when I go I just bring generators, charged batteries and a couple solar panels for a computer Can't wait to see Will's setup in about 2 years. It will be the one I buy.
Toby you are spot on. I'm in the same boat. After watching Will explain everything in such detail and in a manner we can all understand, I feel much more confident. Thanks Will. Keep making these videos.
Will, you are by far the best gahdam walking owner's manual for a post-industrial electrical setup that po'folks can build and scale. I started watching you when you were building small systems on a sheet of ply for RV'ers and now you're bodging up splendiferous split-phase bonanzas that could power an entire domicile. I might be years away from a solar rig but you can be sure when I tell DTE to yank the cord and good riddance, my system will have a fair amount of Prowse (and Poz) in it.
Will this is one of your best videos. You just clearly illustrated the products and installation methods necessary to realistically build a completely off-grid electrical system that can power ALL THE THINGS people expect in a modern home. Really nicely done sir.
I learned more in this 15 minute video than i have in my weeks of reading and studying, thank you. You manged to point out and explain so many key details that others, even manufacturers miss. of course now i have to completely change my solar project but at least now i feel more confident in what i am doing. Thank you again!
Thanks Will, for your blueprint which I completed all myself (off grid). I did add a Siemens 200 amp manual transfer switch (I got from HD online) and without the use of the 60 Amp breakers and sub panel as it feeds my existing sub panel breaker panes on the panel) and used 4 AWG (NOTE I just finished the REWIRE today, as manual requires 4 AWG) wire instead of 6 AWG (as you stated in your blueprint) for AC (it did not seem too hard to put in the terminal block). The system powers my entire house (3 ton GREE HVAC) since Aug 31, 2022 I will need more testing as I now have about 8 days/nights on the system and the winter is just around the corner. I have 28 panels of Canadian Solar CS3W-445MB-AG bi facial panels from SanTan Solar. I purchased an IronRidge Ground mount system that I designed off of their website for mounting them. I modified the spacing to 6 foot spacing so I could use the top cap as a splice joint. My total Array is about 54 feet long. My wire and I are very happy that somebody has reinstated the rebate from 26 to 30% (for 2022) and things are working fine for US. Too bad I an unable to add photos as I made a frame above my server rack (6 LifePower Batts) which holds both of my inverters (8 inches apart) which cuts down on the wiring "mess" on the wall and tidies things up nicely above the server rack.
The 240Vac is common in Asia and Europe. The kicker is massive output of 13KW which got everyone jump for joy this side of the pond! The battery bank to inverters sizing is spot on. Thanks for the clear and concise info as usual.
If you work with Signature Solar AND listen to Will, you should have no "problems." I like when Will says, "problems," as this could mean fires or electrocution, LOL. Will is actually more knowledgeable than the average electrician when it comes to this genre. I'm putting this exact same set-up on my off-grid farm in NW NC.
Young man I like how simple you set your units up and how simple you explain it that even a child could understand it that's why I tell people that are interested in solar to check out your Channel I say forget the rest and go to the best
I just want to thank you AGAIN for all your informative videos and info on your website You have changed my life just by explaining and showing us how and what to do You Rock 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻 Thanks so Much !!!
Thank you for posting this video which is very clear and informative - well done. I have looked at solar for my home and with the current pricing it's a 15+ year payback - even worse, under the rules in my area if I lose power to my home I can't run my house from the solar panels - only on batteries. Just one of my two AC units takes nearly 20 amps to start and about 12 amps to run - batteries add to the expense and only buy me 5-6 hours of AC time. I have a 20kw diesel generator on an automatic transfer switch. When the power goes out I have reliable power to run my entire house until the fuel runs out.
Thank you very much!! I am planning on building this system in the very near future and this is so helpful!! Love your channel and that you are willing to share with everyone!
I just wanted to thank you for the clear, concise language in describing this System; I'm moving to WV, a very unfriendly state in terms of renewable energy. This is perfect for my soon to be renovated 1300ft Craftsman. I have to rewire the house anyway. Mahalo.
Have you watched Wild Wonderful Off Grid? They have a killer setup in WV but more expensive and involved than this setup. Cool to see someone 100% off grid with only solar though!
I recently moved to WV myself. And I bought the system... Problem is I can't find anyone to hook it up... So it's just been sitting in boxes. Lol It's pretty awful, having to use a generator for everything. 😄🤦🏻♂️
My son and I each just purchased this system. Excellent video, Will! What timing! Hats off to the folks at Signature Solar who make this purchase pain free.
@@drthik1 Total Cost of All-in-one and Wiring Costs: $3,283 6X 5kWh Batteries and 6 Shelf Battery Rack: $10,168 This does not include Solar Panels, Racking or Installation (this price can vary drastically depending on your roof and type of solar panel being installed)
Amazing! Quality information that I'm using in our life! We just ordered all this and are very excited to have power independence! Keep up the great work Willy!!
Just read your comment now as I prepare for my build. Did you go through with your installation and how did it go, compared to how easy he made it seem in the system?
It's been working for a year now! It took a couple years off of my life but it's great now that it's up and going. Check out his forum if you have questions!@@jeff082083
I hugely appreciate your videos, and am gradually inching closer to building my own system thanks in no small part to the quality of your work. There is one thing I don't know if you've covered (haven't seen it in past videos, but maybe I just missed it) that would be very helpful to me - heat generated by these various components, system temperature tolerances (if they vary by each piece of equipment), management of this heat (including designing the place where they'll be installed), and size of the space where they should be installed (with a focus on heat management). Currently I have an Outback system, which can run (derated above 75 degrees F) in temperatures up to 158 degrees (it appears that the Schneider systems Signature Solar recently started selling have a similar tolerance). However, these EG4 systems seem functional only up to 104 degrees, and Signature Solar (in an email chain I had with them) themselves have said it's important to keep the temperature down. At the height of summer, even in the shade, in a shed-like structure, I don't think this can be achieved without active cooling. If the air temperature soars to 100+, there's literally nothing I could do aside from having active cooling (or installing them in an in-ground structure perhaps; I've played with using some kind of miniature geothermal system as well, though haven't built any real plans yet). I'd love to hear your take on this point. For context, I live in a 200 square foot tiny house with almost no unused wall space, so I'm looking to build a separate structure to house this equipment. My current equipment is in a too-small utility closet, which is not cooled and sometimes rises to over 120 degrees (far from ideal, but we didn't anticipate this situation when positioning our house and are working on it). Our batteries are inside the house, and I want them to no longer be, so I'm planning on creating enough space outside for all of the equipment (like in your video). Thank you!
Stick with small and well insulated with ample space to maintain the system. If you constructed something fireproof enough, you could situate it close enough to your home to get climate controlled air into it. You might get enough air flow if you added a vent in the enclosure to allow your home to maintain a modest temperature range in the enclosure year round. If not, a small duct fan could help there.
How about some recycled brick and block on concrete and then Earth shelter the entire structure? My solar room is in my basement underneath a porch. The inverters are approximately 18 in below grade. Anxious to see how the entire system performs once I have my second string of panels installed and both inverters up and running
@@martingargas3217 I like ideas like this a lot. We're so constrained on space and what we can do with it that we have to be really careful, but I think something like this has a good chance of working well. I hope it works out for you!
If you are like me and learned a lot of what you know from Will, just remember to check with your local zoning officer before you buy. I purchased an offgrid system under the assumption that it would not need to be code compliant and then I learned otherwise. My municipality did not care that my system was ground mounted and totally off-grid. They are requiring that I get zoning and building permits and an inspection before I power it up. If I were doing this all over again, I would get the zoning and building permits that give the "ok" for the equipment I want to use and _then_ purchase the equipment.
Hey: Will Would you do a video that breaks down how big of a system you need based on your yearly KWH usage of your electric power bill. On a different note your channel is awesome! Thanks again for sharing your wit and wisdom with all of us.
Great video (As Usual). Edited: (After thinking about this some more I came to a different conclusion) With the system set up as shown in the video, the bonding relays in the inverters will always be turned on, so the system has 3 neutral-ground bonds (One in each inverter and one in the distribution box). Therefor there *will* be current on the ground. All of the assertions about the risk being lower due to the short distance and conduit are true. In addition, since it is a split-phase system the ground current will be limited to roughly 1/2 the differential between the two hots. *However, with the multiple bonds, I do not believe it is technically to code.* The good news is that this is easy to fix by removing the N-G bond screws from each of the inverters. Also, it is important for everyone to understand what you asserted in the video: If you have AC-in (Using it as a UPS) the situation changes significantly. When in passthrough mode, there will be two N-G bonds, and when in inverter mode there will be 3 N-G bonds. As you said, in this case, there should be no N-G bond in the panel being fed by the inverters. In addition, the source of the AC going into the inverters should have an NG Bond and the N-G Bond 'disable' screw should be removed from one of the two inverters. Note: I would not be at all surprised if an inspector missed the issue and passed a system like yours. Most of them have never done a deep dive on this type of set-up and they would not realize the problems that could exist. (This is why more and more municipalities are requiring an Engineers Plan and sign-off.... but even a lot of residential electrical engineers will not get this right.
This is an amazing video and I really appreciate you taking the time to go through the full detail to set this up and *why* you chose each component. My only concern is I'm still hung up on that high idle power of ~ 160W for 2 of these interverts -- nearly 4 kWh/day or >1300 a year is a lot of energy loss.
Same here...another fan from another vid on this E4G commented it needs 2KW each day just to idle and be ready to provide AC on top of the 2kw it needs just to run.
To put the standby power into perspective, that is less than the total output power of a single solar panel(which can be had for less than 150(I've bought used 300W panels for 30))
@@TurkishLoserInc You might want to research that a bit more. 160W idle = 3.84 kWh per day. A solar panel typically gets 3-4 hours of 'full sun' equivalence in many areas of the world, or about 0.9-1.2 kWh per day. You'd need 3-4 panels in large portions of the US and EU to just 'pay for' this ridiculous idle power. Even Arizona gets 7.5 hours of full sun equivalent = 2 panels needed to handle idle.
Thank you for your time to educate and share! I apologize if I missed this detail but in your build list could you update to include the solar panels for someone like myself trying to learn from the most basic level? How many panels at what watts for your design in this video would be very helpful to me! Thanks!
No. Professors at college are dealing with more intelligent people, and notably those that have qualifications in mathematic and physics, so they don't need to dumb the content down as much. That is not to say there isn't a need to be able to explain things to people with little background in the topic, but fundamentally a professor is teaching to more advanced students and needs to explain the right concepts for the exam, subjects which would be too hard for average Joe to understand.
@@deang5622 you are a hypocrite, I can introduce you to a world full of over educated idiots that can't put a screw into a board. The difference is we are learning all the time when you know it all.
Will Prowse is only one I would absolutely trust, because his standards are even above mine. I TRUST his opinions explicitly. I'm very tempted to pull the plug on this, excellent price for what you get. Awesome job Mr. Will Prowse...
Excellent tutorial, Will. You didn’t mention anything about using this configuration for a grid-tied AC-Coupled system. I’m looking at adding battery backup to my Enphase IQ7+ 5.3kw PV system and I really like the EG4LL batteries. In fact, here in CA, they require both UL and 10-year warranty in order to pass inspection. I’d love a good alternative to the Sol-Arks…they’re just too dang pricey!
Interested in this as well, would like to understand the viability of using this type of battery setup with a grid tied IQ8 solar array. But even if this doesn't necessarily become viable in the near future, I'm hoping it applies price competition for the battery market including Enphase.
Consider LCOE - cost /kWh over the Life of the system. Sol-Ark when installed correctly has a 10 year warranty and Battery saving "PCS" Power Control Features. This system will make Power .... free of battery chemicals. ie. You can make Ice and Hot water when the Battery fails.
I third that. I'm in permitting phase currently for a 14.5kw array connected to Enphase IQ8 technology. I'd like a value battery alternative too. The Enphase makes the grid tied part so easy...with the smart controller. Wondering if the communication between batteries and smart controller will be limiting factor. The batteries need inverting too, so there is that. The Enphase battery array has all that built in but Cost is up there.
Same. Although, I've said that quite a few times with different setups Will has made videos of. They just keep getting better and less expensive, and I am ALL for that. Lol
If you mean Grid Tie as in backfeeding for credit, which is the accepted meaning of the term, that gets a lot more difficult to be code compliant as you have to make your utility company happy as well as your local code enforcement. If you mean Grid Interactive, which usually means as a UPS (grid priority) or as grid backup when batteries get low and solar isn’t available (solar/battery priority), then this video is only missing one step which is have the AC input connected and those related settings set.
Thanks Will. You're inspiring confidence in me and probably many others that we can do it too. It looks like about $13,000 not including solar panels. Pretty good if you go buy a pallet or two of used panels. That's backup for a heavy air conditioned day somewhere hot and probably 3 days the other 8 months of the year.
@@Lracnolip you might be right I was just thinking $3,000 for the inverters and $9,000 for the batteries. The rack, wire, box, fuses and all the other conduit and stuff will bring it up. Still beats anything you'll buy from a solar installer.
You'll get way more than a day out of this IMO if you use a split system (I think you guys there call them heat pumps). They're very efficient and don't run at 100% once a house is cooled
I got two of these inverters and I will say the biggest issue that I have are the fans, They are constantly on and when they get a load, they sound like airplanes taking off also the other issue is the heat that comes off these inverters, Wow, I'm now considering getting an air conditioner for the garage, if your considering getting these inverters, just now that they are loud Thank you Will Prowse, you put out great videos
The 3/4 flexible conduit works with those rubber fittings they sent. You just remove the little rubber ring inside. That would eliminate the issue you had with having to buy a large washer.
Yes, but he is building a code-compliant system. Code requires you to use listed equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You may be correct that is will physically work, but an inspector my fail it. Good to know.
Thank you for this great video Will!! I've watched this at least 15 times so far. I have learned so much from you and the DIY Forum. I am getting ready to install my LV6548 with 2-EG4 48 batteries. I hope to add a second inverter down the road. The plan is to have AC output to my main breaker panel next to the LV6548 and a sub-panel from that to our off-grid cabin. No grid tie, but will be having my Honda EU2200i generator going to the AC in on the LV6548. Would be a good idea to follow exactly this setup you did? What size breaker did you use for the 2 inverters coming into the breaker box? Thank you!!!!
Nice tutorial job. If you do experience any future problem with your system, one of the first places you may want to check is at the short 2/0 positive + wires that exit the bus and enter the fuse blocks. I've seen short cables become brittle on DC circuits under load, which increases the impedance or resistance in the cable, creating a voltage drop. If you experience this problem, the simple fix is to replace those cables with longer cables. For cosmetics, maybe lower the 4/0 & positive bus, vertically mount the fuses, then replace the 2/0 to length, similar to how the negative cables are ran.
Will, can you please do a video on the right way to do the neutral/ground bond etc for the different kind of systems for grid pass through, off grid and systems with sub panels etc.. This is a massively huge grey area that I haven't been able to find a clear answer on.
Nice video. There is a code issue with your AC load center panel. Since you are back feeding the bus bars via a double pole branch circuit breaker, a hold-down device is needed for that breaker (or each breaker if you have multiple sets of inverters). According to NEC 408.36(D) Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are back-fed and used to terminate field-installed ungrounded supply conductors shall be secured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than a pull to release the device from the mounting means on the panel.
@@WillProwse You are correct… this is generally the case. In your example in this video, your two inverters are acting as the only source of power-therefore a hold-down is required. It is often just a plastic clip with a screw, or even just a screw, depending on the manufacturer..
Hi. Thank you so much! I love this and all your videos! I even bought your book from Amazon. All I'm hoping is to be able to do a system on my own for a off grid home... I'm a woman and I'm not very handy ... I'm jus trying to find my perfect system. I've watched a lot of other tutorials yet you are the best! Thanks a lot again!
Thanks Will, looks great. I think this is what I need. My only question is about the inverters. Can these high frequency inverters handle the surge from a 240 volt well pump along with a mini split. I've watched a few tests on some other inverters and they couldn't handle a saw cutting a beam. Is a low frequency inverter required for that type of load? I'd appreciate it if you could load test your system. Though, handling you ac and charging your car is pretty good. 😀
If you watch enough of his vids he breaks out cost for everything.. I'm getting this system for about $14k...but add tax and shipping and the time it takes to learn and then DIY. Oh yes...I forgot about a grand for 20 used 240 watt panels...that is with tax and shipping.
Will demonstrates how to calculate the cost for the job being done. He also points out that the cost depends on how much power you're working with. I recommend buying Wills book "Mobile Solar Power Made Easy". This will explain how to calculate for the job being done.
That’s awesome I learned about those LiFePo batteries in my nabcep associate level photovoltaic, and they’re very cool. I’m also happy to say I passed the test first try.
When I saw the worst, sloppiest installation ever, the first thought that popped into my head was that a wild animal had gotten trapped in the power "hut" tore up the place, and strung wires all over. I appreciate Will's clean builds. 🙂
Code compliance - Can you address the panels still having voltage after the cutoff breaker is thrown? I think the later electrical code (in TX at least) says the individual panels need to be shutdown at the individual panel so there is no voltage on the wires. Probably doesn't apply for off grid, but might if you are connecting to the grid. (BTW I just picked up my batt from signature solar 🙂)
Two things Will, I wonder how good the new Mpp section is at making power compared to the LV6548 (within each working range) and I wonder if there’s going to be a radical price drop on the former?
Each unit can surge up to 100ms@≥205% load; 5s@≥150% load; 10s@110%~150% load (specification in the manual). In order to handle that surge power (for induction motor start up current), I recommend to use 4 AWG for Hot and Neutral wires, and 8 AWG for ground wire. Conduits for those can be 3/4 - 1 inch.
48kW (This is at 13kW) - gonna need some bigger equipment :) but it's improving quickly. Really you don't need that much though, probably like 60 or 70% of it. Shoot I have 200A service and I don't think I draw more than 18 or 20kW ever (with car charging near 10kW, AC going, cooking or laundry etc).
Great content as usual. In your output panel, if you need a few 120V circuits, is there anything else necessary other than simply using a 120V breaker? Thanks for all you do!
I bought 30 panels from these guys and bunch of batteries, spent 15k. I need one replaced. They absolutely refused to sell me one. I begged them and offered to pay the extra cost of building a shipping crate. Or come up with a reasonable solution. The best they could do is sell me another $1,000 worth of panels. What a joke.
Sounds normal to me, companies are not in the service business. I broke 1 of 24 panels and had to source a replacement locally for 3 x the original cost.
@kaf2303 well I am in the service business. I treat my customers right because it's the right thing to do. I also know what one bad review could cost me thousands. It's best just to take care of people and earn your reputation .
@makwaphy sorry, I meant during your initial order. But that's too bad they wouldn't send you just one....I think they have a lot of damaged panels if they just ship one at a time.
Damn, this setup is insane. I'm planning on having a battery backup of 120KWh to be able to charge a 100KWh EV. I wonder how much it would cost. Hopefully smaller, more powerful batteries are invented. Was also looking into Lavo hydrogen fuel cell setup since it can provide 40KWh of electricity.
What would be more efficient is if the solar arrays, thru an MPPT could go directly to the batteries in the vehicle. There is very much waste in the conversion process to go to AC, to put into an AC to DC charger for a vehicle. 30% loss when done this way.
I have been doing so much research to cobble together a set up for our future solar system to power all of the home needs plus the shop and this is what I have been waiting for! Awesome!
Are you going to compare this to the growatt inverters? These inverters are more expensive but it seems you don't need a transformer like with growatt which makes it easier to setup from what I can tell. Now what happens if 1 of the inverters go down and your using a 240v outlet? Will the other inverter cut out instantly too? Something you don't have to worry about with growatt, hence the transformer which steps down to 120v
You can look the manual up online. They recommend 4awg wire and you feed it from you main breaker panel. I was worried when I installed mine but it’s fairly simple.
@@GavinStoneDIY I was talking about when Will mentions you could connect with an automatic transfer switch. I want to know how to wire the ATS to your main system and what ATS is good. Are there other ways of connecting than an ATS? The 4awg wire does not address HOW it will connect, just the type of wire.
@@stevereschke3317 ah I see. I misunderstood your question. I guess I will have to rewatch the video. I don’t see the sense in wiring an ATS into the system when the inverters come with an internal auto switch already. But maybe I’m not looking at it from the right angle.
Sorry, but have to call BS on Signature Solar saying the ground/neutral bond in the inverters is correct - and that ground current is acceptable. Reference NEC 250.6 - Objectionable Ground Current. Ground conductors aren't allowed to carry current except in a fault condition (purpose of the ground). In no way should the ground/neutral bond be both at the inverters and the panel. As a test, create a large phase imbalance - say charge your Tesla at 240V and put a 120V large heater on one phase. Maybe several to approach inverter max (these are big inverters). With your voltmeter, measure the AC voltage between the electrical box ground/neutral and the inverter metal chassis. Do the same between each inverter chassis. If you measure anything other than zero volts, you have a shock hazard if you touch those two items. That's why the ground needs to be separate, and never any current flowing. Also, pretty sure the split phase configuration with two inverters in series is not-UL listed. Just because the manual shows lots of configs doesn't mean that all configs (and settings) are UL listed. The listing seems to indicate a stand-alone single inverter setup.
Their reasoning is that a traditional meter and panel have two bonds, and the current on the ground in that instance is not an issue. They argue that it is protected and short distance, so it should be fine and pass inspection. I'll measure the potential between the cases with large imbalance. I do agree with you but everyone's saying I'm wrong.
Oh I didn't think of that. Im being told that hundreds of systems have passed inspection with this configuration. Stand alone inverter would make more sense.
@@WillProwse I don't know even what they are saying about the meter. Understand these guys want to sell product - they are not code experts by any stretch. The meter doesn't even have a 'ground' between it and the electrical panel - just hots and a common (neutral). There is no double bond. Anyway, for your testing, you can also measure the current at various neutral and ground conductors with a clamp meter in your setup. You'll see how the large phase imbalance current is sharing between the neutral (white) and ground (green) wires - which is not at all the function of the ground.
@@WillProwse Yeah, ETL testing is also pretty lax depending who they use. Tests per UL standards, but not UL. If UL actually tested and certified for them they'd check way more things, and that manual without any depiction of how to hook up ground would be a non-starter.
@@billjohnson3344 yeah very true. I'm being told the older model, lv6548, from another distributor, passed inspection multiple times even without PV screw terminals. I don't get it. And yes good points about UL and etl
I just started my journey on building an off grid solar system and this is the best channel I have found so far. I wanted to start with the solar panels and build my system from there but you did not cover the panels you are using for this system in this video. I have a 2 story apartment metal building on my property that I want to convert to 100% off grid solar. It has electricity now but I want to bypass it all and run it off grid. The reason I wanted to put the solar panels on first is because the ceiling is a little hot in places due the the metal roof and metal roof joist. I was hoping that I can deflect some of the heat with the panels so that is why I wanted to start with the panels first. Im sure I can continue searching your videos to figure out what you used on this system but would appreciate any info you can shoot my way. Thanks for a great video. john
I have always loved your videos young man! I am an old guy and also an inspector, contractor, multi-talented journeyman and I have one thing to comment on your devise that may save a lot of confusion and possibly someone being very much electricuted or hurt from lack of knowledge. National Electric Code specifically calls the Neutal Wire and intentionally grounded conductor meaning it carries just as much juice and power as the black or hot wire as you are describing! I too did not know the difference but you have really a potentially fatal error in your configuation by connecting the intentionally grounded conductor and the ground to the serice panel only without making the panel go to a ground bar outside that makes the green have the pathway and possiblity to ground the white conductor to the intended grounding source with is the earth! I hope that makes sense young man and it is not my desire to chide you or take away from your helpful handiwork but to both help you and all of your followers understand and implement the intended safety feature of the earth ground! Blessings in Him, Dave
I have no idea what you are talking about, but I hope I could get my own place and set up something like this. It seems you know what you’re talking about! 👍🏽!
Parts list and blueprint for this system can be found here: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html
Be sure to check with local laws and regulations for your electrical code. Some places are more strict or lax than others! My system is not connected to the grid in any way, so I am not going to get an inspection. This is considered the same system as a car battery connected to a 12V inverter. There is nothing special about it.
If you need to earth ground your system, have an electrician assess your environment and system and figure out what is most appropriate. And any other special safety equipment. Always hire a professional if you do not understand something! In the blueprints above, I go into this point with more details. Please read it!
0:00 Intro
1:42 Mounting Devices Safely
2:36 Component Overview
3:17 Inverter Connection and Cable Sizing
3:52 Fuse/Circuit Breaker
4:11 Battery Cable Sizing
5:46 Server Battery Connection
5:00 PV Disconnect and Limits
6:21 AC Output Connection and Discussion
11:41 Programming the Inverters for Split Phase Output
13:14 Powering On and Testing Output Voltage
14:00 Conclusion
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12V/48V Lithium Solar Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html
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Complete "Add to Cart" 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html
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*My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar Products:*
*Signature Solar*
Offgrid One-Stop-Shop. Best Value 48V LiFePO4, Victron and Offgrid Specific Heat Pumps:
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*Current Connected*
SOK, Victron, Mr.Cool Heatpumps and High Quality Components. Fantastic customer support:
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*Litime*
My favorite 12V budget battery!:
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*Epoch Batteries*
My favorite high-quality 12V battery:
www.epochbatteries.com/products/12v-460ah-lifepo4-battery-ip67-heated-bluetooth-victron-comms?rfsn=7352625.50494d
*Renogy*
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*Rich Solar*
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Good job. Appreciate your efforts in helping to create better products for the consumer.
WIll, can you provide a link to your PV breakers in this video? I am not seeing those specific ones.
Hows that lvx6048 working for you?
Will - I wish we were three years before now... Deanna and I would have gone an entirely different direction on the off grid in Northern Nevada... gonna have to save some more pennies and install this type of system! Thanks so much for all you do!!
Thanks Will! You should pin this comment so that it is at the top for everyone to see
As a home inspector and residential contractor with 15 years in the housing industry, I can say I am impressed. As I was watching the video, I had several concerns/issues, ready and waiting in my mind. Will addressed them all one by one in very satisfactory manner. Main disconnects, grounds and neutrals being separated, or not being separated and so on. Top-notch video.
Will,
Thank you on the outstanding jobs you've done on your videos. Essentially this series. You really knocked it out the park. Your getting a lot of praise for your work and deservedly so. I'm just adding to the long list.
By far the best on RUclips on the subject matter.
I’m very impressed each time you build one of your systems. They are so clean and simply set up anyone can do it.
You are amazing explaining everything including the mistakes possible and all the safety precautions. I always recommend your channel to anyone doing solar.
So amazing! I can't believe how far this tech has come in just a couple of years. You're videos are very encouraging and I can't wait to get started on my own project. Thanks Will.
Fantastic job Will. A ton of work went into this video. The information is clear and concise. Your blueprint on your website is super detailed. Links to all the parts are included. There is nothing missing. Outstanding work. Thank you for all you do.
Which surge protector do you use between the PV array and the eg4 6500ex?
This is so awesome. My wife and I are planning on our dream off-grid house and this will defiantly get us started if not do the full job. Thanks again for all you do and provide to us!!!
I've watched this at least 20 times. 1) I learn something else each and every time. 2) I get super excited for my system each time!!
Will - thank you for your work! I credit this video for giving me and my family the confidence to DIY our off-grid project. And I’ve watched it at least 25 times on my way to a successful install. Today we turned the lights on and all went great. Exciting day. THANK YOU!
I really appreciate the time you spent making the list and video. The bonus for all of us is that if/when you find a specific component is not "aging well", you can update the list or make notations for improved updated products. Thanks again!
This is incredible Will, I can't believe how much the systems have changed in just a few years.
So true.
Bought that unit and was happy to see you tested it and gave a thumbs up . I do agree they are very simple to wire and and Singnature Solar has 24 /7 help for anyone and they notify you on any issues to be rectified .
I am looking forward to have my system running this November when my house is complete .
You do a great job explaining , and I feel most people can relate .
Cheers Rob
Well, clearly you are a genius. As a mere mortal, you lost me about half way through, but I am on the learning curve. I plan to build an off grid place and your videos are of great help. Thank you.
Will, you are the man. I'm an engineer but you have taught me so much about "real world" solar installation it ain't funny! Thank you for your videos and God bless!!
Thanks Will! You’re getting better and better at explaining this stuff. I can’t emphasize enough that we need to get everybody we can off grid for what’s coming! 🤙
People need to form groups and share wealth to buy good large off grid properties and get multi-occupancy titles and network their skills and labour together. Problem is most people have been trusting governments, banks, the police and the military to safeguard their egos and will resent sharing their wealth for a common cause. By the time the great reset reveals its true colours it will be too late for them.
@@TheHeinrichSymposium
The federal reserve just came out and stated the 2023 would be the reset!
Basically there will never be another election.
I am years away financially to be able to build an off grid system, that said I will have learned so much from the quality content you put out about sustainable power systems. Many thanks Will😊
This is essentially the exact off grid system that I have wanted to build for the last year or so. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Will, I can't thank you enough for making this series. I've been on the verge of buying and building a system for a while and this fits the bill perfectly. The way you lay everything out is perfect for a beginner that has only done minor electrical work in the past. I now have the confidence to start ordering my supplies and gaining my independence from the ever-rising electrical rates.
I agree, one of the best informational videos I have ever seen on on YT. It encourages me to take the leap building my own system. Thank you Will!
Yup, I'll be moving full-time to my lodge in a few years. I think solar will be at the perfect price point and capability 2 years out. Right now when I go I just bring generators, charged batteries and a couple solar panels for a computer Can't wait to see Will's setup in about 2 years. It will be the one I buy.
Toby you are spot on. I'm in the same boat. After watching Will explain everything in such detail and in a manner we can all understand, I feel much more confident. Thanks Will. Keep making these videos.
Thanks Will you are Awesome
G'day mate i concur
Will, you are by far the best gahdam walking owner's manual for a post-industrial electrical setup that po'folks can build and scale. I started watching you when you were building small systems on a sheet of ply for RV'ers and now you're bodging up splendiferous split-phase bonanzas that could power an entire domicile. I might be years away from a solar rig but you can be sure when I tell DTE to yank the cord and good riddance, my system will have a fair amount of Prowse (and Poz) in it.
Amazing work! Thank you so much for making this series. I’m going to build this exact setup. You’re the best Will!
I knew you were familiar! you helped my plantar fasciitis! love to see the success of your solar channel here
Will this is one of your best videos. You just clearly illustrated the products and installation methods necessary to realistically build a completely off-grid electrical system that can power ALL THE THINGS people expect in a modern home. Really nicely done sir.
I agree! Exactly what I was looking for.
I learned more in this 15 minute video than i have in my weeks of reading and studying, thank you. You manged to point out and explain so many key details that others, even manufacturers miss. of course now i have to completely change my solar project but at least now i feel more confident in what i am doing. Thank you again!
Thanks Will, for your blueprint which I completed all myself (off grid). I did add a Siemens 200 amp manual transfer switch (I got from HD online) and without the use of the 60 Amp breakers and sub panel as it feeds my existing sub panel breaker panes on the panel) and used 4 AWG (NOTE I just finished the REWIRE today, as manual requires 4 AWG) wire instead of 6 AWG (as you stated in your blueprint) for AC (it did not seem too hard to put in the terminal block).
The system powers my entire house (3 ton GREE HVAC) since Aug 31, 2022 I will need more testing as I now have about 8 days/nights on the system and the winter is just around the corner. I have 28 panels of Canadian Solar CS3W-445MB-AG bi facial panels from SanTan Solar.
I purchased an IronRidge Ground mount system that I designed off of their website for mounting them. I modified the spacing to 6 foot spacing so I could use the top cap as a splice joint. My total Array is about 54 feet long.
My wire and I are very happy that somebody has reinstated the rebate from 26 to 30% (for 2022) and things are working fine for US. Too bad I an unable to add photos as I made a frame above my server rack (6 LifePower Batts) which holds both of my inverters (8 inches apart) which cuts down on the wiring "mess" on the wall and tidies things up nicely above the server rack.
The 240Vac is common in Asia and Europe. The kicker is massive output of 13KW which got everyone jump for joy this side of the pond! The battery bank to inverters sizing is spot on. Thanks for the clear and concise info as usual.
If you work with Signature Solar AND listen to Will, you should have no "problems." I like when Will says, "problems," as this could mean fires or electrocution, LOL. Will is actually more knowledgeable than the average electrician when it comes to this genre. I'm putting this exact same set-up on my off-grid farm in NW NC.
Young man I like how simple you set your units up and how simple you explain it that even a child could understand it that's why I tell people that are interested in solar to check out your Channel I say forget the rest and go to the best
Your channel is so informative, Will. Thanks again for everything you do. I've learned so much from your videos (and website and book).
I just want to thank you AGAIN for all your informative videos and info on your website
You have changed my life just by explaining and showing us how and what to do
You Rock 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Thanks so Much !!!
Thank you for posting this video which is very clear and informative - well done. I have looked at solar for my home and with the current pricing it's a 15+ year payback - even worse, under the rules in my area if I lose power to my home I can't run my house from the solar panels - only on batteries. Just one of my two AC units takes nearly 20 amps to start and about 12 amps to run - batteries add to the expense and only buy me 5-6 hours of AC time. I have a 20kw diesel generator on an automatic transfer switch. When the power goes out I have reliable power to run my entire house until the fuel runs out.
Your channel is a Godsend. Please keep making content so we can keep learning!
Will, you hit it out of the park yet again, very good info on such systems, amazing!
Thank you very much!! I am planning on building this system in the very near future and this is so helpful!! Love your channel and that you are willing to share with everyone!
I built this exact system right after Will made this video. It’s worked every day since. Great components for the price point.
I just wanted to thank you for the clear, concise language in describing this System; I'm moving to WV, a very unfriendly state in terms of renewable energy. This is perfect for my soon to be renovated 1300ft Craftsman. I have to rewire the house anyway. Mahalo.
Have you watched Wild Wonderful Off Grid? They have a killer setup in WV but more expensive and involved than this setup. Cool to see someone 100% off grid with only solar though!
@@whattheschmidt No I haven't, I'll look them up, Mahalo.
I recently moved to WV myself. And I bought the system... Problem is I can't find anyone to hook it up... So it's just been sitting in boxes. Lol
It's pretty awful, having to use a generator for everything. 😄🤦🏻♂️
My son and I each just purchased this system. Excellent video, Will! What timing! Hats off to the folks at Signature Solar who make this purchase pain free.
What was the total cost?
@@VanillaAttila prolly around $25,000 with 16kw of panels
@@drthik1
Total Cost of All-in-one and Wiring Costs: $3,283
6X 5kWh Batteries and 6 Shelf Battery Rack: $10,168
This does not include Solar Panels, Racking or Installation
(this price can vary drastically depending on your roof and type of solar panel being installed)
@@WillProwse How many panels that you used?
@@WillProwse thank you very much. Appreciate so much the video and rhe cost break down.
We just purchased this system based on a different review you recently did. So great to see this...
Amazing! Quality information that I'm using in our life! We just ordered all this and are very excited to have power independence! Keep up the great work Willy!!
Just read your comment now as I prepare for my build. Did you go through with your installation and how did it go, compared to how easy he made it seem in the system?
It's been working for a year now! It took a couple years off of my life but it's great now that it's up and going. Check out his forum if you have questions!@@jeff082083
I hugely appreciate your videos, and am gradually inching closer to building my own system thanks in no small part to the quality of your work. There is one thing I don't know if you've covered (haven't seen it in past videos, but maybe I just missed it) that would be very helpful to me - heat generated by these various components, system temperature tolerances (if they vary by each piece of equipment), management of this heat (including designing the place where they'll be installed), and size of the space where they should be installed (with a focus on heat management).
Currently I have an Outback system, which can run (derated above 75 degrees F) in temperatures up to 158 degrees (it appears that the Schneider systems Signature Solar recently started selling have a similar tolerance). However, these EG4 systems seem functional only up to 104 degrees, and Signature Solar (in an email chain I had with them) themselves have said it's important to keep the temperature down.
At the height of summer, even in the shade, in a shed-like structure, I don't think this can be achieved without active cooling. If the air temperature soars to 100+, there's literally nothing I could do aside from having active cooling (or installing them in an in-ground structure perhaps; I've played with using some kind of miniature geothermal system as well, though haven't built any real plans yet). I'd love to hear your take on this point.
For context, I live in a 200 square foot tiny house with almost no unused wall space, so I'm looking to build a separate structure to house this equipment. My current equipment is in a too-small utility closet, which is not cooled and sometimes rises to over 120 degrees (far from ideal, but we didn't anticipate this situation when positioning our house and are working on it). Our batteries are inside the house, and I want them to no longer be, so I'm planning on creating enough space outside for all of the equipment (like in your video).
Thank you!
Stick with small and well insulated with ample space to maintain the system. If you constructed something fireproof enough, you could situate it close enough to your home to get climate controlled air into it. You might get enough air flow if you added a vent in the enclosure to allow your home to maintain a modest temperature range in the enclosure year round. If not, a small duct fan could help there.
How about some recycled brick and block on concrete and then Earth shelter the entire structure? My solar room is in my basement underneath a porch. The inverters are approximately 18 in below grade. Anxious to see how the entire system performs once I have my second string of panels installed and both inverters up and running
@@martingargas3217 I like ideas like this a lot. We're so constrained on space and what we can do with it that we have to be really careful, but I think something like this has a good chance of working well. I hope it works out for you!
If you are like me and learned a lot of what you know from Will, just remember to check with your local zoning officer before you buy. I purchased an offgrid system under the assumption that it would not need to be code compliant and then I learned otherwise. My municipality did not care that my system was ground mounted and totally off-grid. They are requiring that I get zoning and building permits and an inspection before I power it up. If I were doing this all over again, I would get the zoning and building permits that give the "ok" for the equipment I want to use and _then_ purchase the equipment.
Thank you for the heads up.
The land of freedom huh
Ground structures in my area only require a permit if it is a permanent structure over 200 square ft. So I put wheels on it 😎
We do to much asking permission just do it.
@CotyWK right! Just got to be better at their game than they are. Get your land patent and none of their zoning matters.
Thanks, Will. One of your best videos ever! Clear, Concise, and very informative. :)
I watched this video, ordered everything. Installed the exact same system in 4 hours on a Sunday.
Hey: Will
Would you do a video that breaks down how big of a system you need based on your yearly KWH usage of your electric power bill.
On a different note your channel is awesome! Thanks again for sharing your wit and wisdom with all of us.
i'm looking for a similar video
You need to figure out avg daily use and go from there
We're a professional Solar Battery manufacture in China, we can help you to figure out these issue!
Very informative! Thank you! The ground neutral is still a little confusing
Great video. Your system is very simple with not of wires running all over the place. Easy to follow. One of your best videos. Thanks for the info.
It's easy when you have a big wall to space it out. Not so easy and has to be well planned if it's in a closet or other small area
I haven't seen another page as specific as yours ( i have watched many of your video's) keep it up!
Great video (As Usual).
Edited: (After thinking about this some more I came to a different conclusion)
With the system set up as shown in the video, the bonding relays in the inverters will always be turned on, so the system has 3 neutral-ground bonds (One in each inverter and one in the distribution box). Therefor there *will* be current on the ground. All of the assertions about the risk being lower due to the short distance and conduit are true. In addition, since it is a split-phase system the ground current will be limited to roughly 1/2 the differential between the two hots. *However, with the multiple bonds, I do not believe it is technically to code.* The good news is that this is easy to fix by removing the N-G bond screws from each of the inverters.
Also, it is important for everyone to understand what you asserted in the video: If you have AC-in (Using it as a UPS) the situation changes significantly. When in passthrough mode, there will be two N-G bonds, and when in inverter mode there will be 3 N-G bonds. As you said, in this case, there should be no N-G bond in the panel being fed by the inverters. In addition, the source of the AC going into the inverters should have an NG Bond and the N-G Bond 'disable' screw should be removed from one of the two inverters.
Note: I would not be at all surprised if an inspector missed the issue and passed a system like yours. Most of them have never done a deep dive on this type of set-up and they would not realize the problems that could exist. (This is why more and more municipalities are requiring an Engineers Plan and sign-off.... but even a lot of residential electrical engineers will not get this right.
You mention a short distance to the panel. I am going about 40 ft to my panel. (splitphase) how does this change things?
@@sheeplehurder1449 Honestly.... Short or long distance, I would not want to have multiple N-G bonds.
This is an amazing video and I really appreciate you taking the time to go through the full detail to set this up and *why* you chose each component. My only concern is I'm still hung up on that high idle power of ~ 160W for 2 of these interverts -- nearly 4 kWh/day or >1300 a year is a lot of energy loss.
Same here...another fan from another vid on this E4G commented it needs 2KW each day just to idle and be ready to provide AC on top of the 2kw it needs just to run.
To put the standby power into perspective, that is less than the total output power of a single solar panel(which can be had for less than 150(I've bought used 300W panels for 30))
@@TurkishLoserInc You might want to research that a bit more. 160W idle = 3.84 kWh per day. A solar panel typically gets 3-4 hours of 'full sun' equivalence in many areas of the world, or about 0.9-1.2 kWh per day. You'd need 3-4 panels in large portions of the US and EU to just 'pay for' this ridiculous idle power. Even Arizona gets 7.5 hours of full sun equivalent = 2 panels needed to handle idle.
@@henrylee8092 holly smokes, that kills it for me; that is not green ,it's bloody red
Wow what a perfect break down of a 240 install. This is exactly what I want to do at my home in NYS. Thank you will for the video.
Impressed
You not only know how
You know the Why its done a specific way
You are very technical, and knowledgable on subject matter specfics
Thank you for your time to educate and share! I apologize if I missed this detail but in your build list could you update to include the solar panels for someone like myself trying to learn from the most basic level? How many panels at what watts for your design in this video would be very helpful to me! Thanks!
Will, you need to be a professor at a college. You explain everything in laymen's terms. Easy to understand. Thank you.
Reaches more people on youtube, welcome to the new millennium
No. Professors at college are dealing with more intelligent people, and notably those that have qualifications in mathematic and physics, so they don't need to dumb the content down as much.
That is not to say there isn't a need to be able to explain things to people with little background in the topic, but fundamentally a professor is teaching to more advanced students and needs to explain the right concepts for the exam, subjects which would be too hard for average Joe to understand.
@@deang5622 you are a hypocrite, I can introduce you to a world full of over educated idiots that can't put a screw into a board. The difference is we are learning all the time when you know it all.
He’s teaching way more people than any professor 💁♀️
Earning a lot more than a professor too!😄 Smart.
Will Prowse is only one I would absolutely trust, because his standards are even above mine. I TRUST his opinions explicitly. I'm very tempted to pull the plug on this, excellent price for what you get. Awesome job Mr. Will Prowse...
Fantastic video! Liked, saved AND shared. This is exactly what we DIYers needed. Thank you sir!
This looks like a very good price vs. performance option. Thanks!
Excellent tutorial, Will. You didn’t mention anything about using this configuration for a grid-tied AC-Coupled system. I’m looking at adding battery backup to my Enphase IQ7+ 5.3kw PV system and I really like the EG4LL batteries. In fact, here in CA, they require both UL and 10-year warranty in order to pass inspection. I’d love a good alternative to the Sol-Arks…they’re just too dang pricey!
Interested in this as well, would like to understand the viability of using this type of battery setup with a grid tied IQ8 solar array. But even if this doesn't necessarily become viable in the near future, I'm hoping it applies price competition for the battery market including Enphase.
Consider LCOE - cost /kWh over the Life of the system. Sol-Ark when installed correctly has a 10 year warranty and Battery saving "PCS" Power Control Features. This system will make Power .... free of battery chemicals. ie. You can make Ice and Hot water when the Battery fails.
I third that. I'm in permitting phase currently for a 14.5kw array connected to Enphase IQ8 technology. I'd like a value battery alternative too. The Enphase makes the grid tied part so easy...with the smart controller. Wondering if the communication between batteries and smart controller will be limiting factor. The batteries need inverting too, so there is that. The Enphase battery array has all that built in but Cost is up there.
Thank you Will. This was the best off grid set up video I have EVER seen.
A superhero we didn’t know we would need in the crazy upside world we live in. Thanks Will!
Damn, this is almost exactly what I'm looking for. I'd love to see some stuff about grid tied as well.
Same. Although, I've said that quite a few times with different setups Will has made videos of. They just keep getting better and less expensive, and I am ALL for that. Lol
I need this system, I just have to figure out how many panels I need and get the money to pay for it
@@robertunger5788 grid tie and money is my only issue too. I've figured out how many panels I needed... to be fair though, half my roof face south
Grid tie as in bypass mode? Or net metering? People seem to use the term for both.
If you mean Grid Tie as in backfeeding for credit, which is the accepted meaning of the term, that gets a lot more difficult to be code compliant as you have to make your utility company happy as well as your local code enforcement. If you mean Grid Interactive, which usually means as a UPS (grid priority) or as grid backup when batteries get low and solar isn’t available (solar/battery priority), then this video is only missing one step which is have the AC input connected and those related settings set.
Thanks Will. You're inspiring confidence in me and probably many others that we can do it too. It looks like about $13,000 not including solar panels. Pretty good if you go buy a pallet or two of used panels. That's backup for a heavy air conditioned day somewhere hot and probably 3 days the other 8 months of the year.
If it's a heavy air conditioned day, you don't need batteries as it's most likely very sunny, no?
@@nils1953 yeah if you have close to a 10 kw array. Running one central AC unit you can easily use 25 or more kilowatt hours in a day.
Going from his price list and taxes l was thinking closer to 20k
@@Lracnolip you might be right I was just thinking $3,000 for the inverters and $9,000 for the batteries. The rack, wire, box, fuses and all the other conduit and stuff will bring it up. Still beats anything you'll buy from a solar installer.
You'll get way more than a day out of this IMO if you use a split system (I think you guys there call them heat pumps). They're very efficient and don't run at 100% once a house is cooled
One day you will go down in history as a pioneer. Thank you so much Will.
I got two of these inverters and I will say the biggest issue that I have are the fans, They are constantly on and when they get a load, they sound like airplanes taking off also the other issue is the heat that comes off these inverters, Wow, I'm now considering getting an air conditioner for the garage, if your considering getting these inverters, just now that they are loud
Thank you Will Prowse, you put out great videos
The 3/4 flexible conduit works with those rubber fittings they sent. You just remove the little rubber ring inside. That would eliminate the issue you had with having to buy a large washer.
Yes, but he is building a code-compliant system. Code requires you to use listed equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You may be correct that is will physically work, but an inspector my fail it. Good to know.
@@powerranger9160 it’s possible. But they send those fittings in the kit for just that reason.
For the price. There's no harm in making the adjustments Will did. It all worked out for the cost of a few dollars.
@@joub5 it worked out great. It’s unnecessary though. So I was trying to help him and others if they were going to be installing the same system.
Thank you for this great video Will!! I've watched this at least 15 times so far. I have learned so much from you and the DIY Forum. I am getting ready to install my LV6548 with 2-EG4 48 batteries. I hope to add a second inverter down the road. The plan is to have AC output to my main breaker panel next to the LV6548 and a sub-panel from that to our off-grid cabin. No grid tie, but will be having my Honda EU2200i generator going to the AC in on the LV6548. Would be a good idea to follow exactly this setup you did? What size breaker did you use for the 2 inverters coming into the breaker box? Thank you!!!!
fantastic presentation. No fluff or BS. You're killin it !!!
Nice tutorial job. If you do experience any future problem with your system, one of the first places you may want to check is at the short 2/0 positive + wires that exit the bus and enter the fuse blocks. I've seen short cables become brittle on DC circuits under load, which increases the impedance or resistance in the cable, creating a voltage drop. If you experience this problem, the simple fix is to replace those cables with longer cables. For cosmetics, maybe lower the 4/0 & positive bus, vertically mount the fuses, then replace the 2/0 to length, similar to how the negative cables are ran.
Will, can you please do a video on the right way to do the neutral/ground bond etc for the different kind of systems for grid pass through, off grid and systems with sub panels etc.. This is a massively huge grey area that I haven't been able to find a clear answer on.
Nice video. There is a code issue with your AC load center panel. Since you are back feeding the bus bars via a double pole branch circuit breaker, a hold-down device is needed for that breaker (or each breaker if you have multiple sets of inverters). According to NEC 408.36(D) Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are back-fed and used to terminate field-installed ungrounded supply conductors shall be secured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than a pull to release the device from the mounting means on the panel.
Do they make one for 6 breakers? Using main breaker has issues. Can't have six inverters all connected to those lugs.
When a grid tie inverter is tied to a panel and backfeeding, there is no hold down device.
@@WillProwse You are correct… this is generally the case. In your example in this video, your two inverters are acting as the only source of power-therefore a hold-down is required. It is often just a plastic clip with a screw, or even just a screw, depending on the manufacturer..
@@powerranger9160 ohhh ok I understand
Hi.
Thank you so much!
I love this and all your videos!
I even bought your book from Amazon.
All I'm hoping is to be able to do a system on my own for a off grid home... I'm a woman and I'm not very handy ... I'm jus trying to find my perfect system.
I've watched a lot of other tutorials yet you are the best!
Thanks a lot again!
Thank you so much for your willingness to share your knowledge. Your videos are informative and enjoyable to watch :)
Thanks Will, looks great. I think this is what I need. My only question is about the inverters. Can these high frequency inverters handle the surge from a 240 volt well pump along with a mini split. I've watched a few tests on some other inverters and they couldn't handle a saw cutting a beam. Is a low frequency inverter required for that type of load? I'd appreciate it if you could load test your system. Though, handling you ac and charging your car is pretty good. 😀
I love how you explain everything, but I wish you would mention the total price point in your videos. 👍👍💛
If you watch enough of his vids he breaks out cost for everything.. I'm getting this system for about $14k...but add tax and shipping and the time it takes to learn and then DIY.
Oh yes...I forgot about a grand for 20 used 240 watt panels...that is with tax and shipping.
Will demonstrates how to calculate the cost for the job being done. He also points out that the cost depends on how much power you're working with. I recommend buying Wills book "Mobile Solar Power Made Easy". This will explain how to calculate for the job being done.
That’s awesome I learned about those LiFePo batteries in my nabcep associate level photovoltaic, and they’re very cool. I’m also happy to say I passed the test first try.
Cleanest build I have seen! Also great explanation to all the components and their purpose!
When I saw the worst, sloppiest installation ever, the first thought that popped into my head was that a wild animal had gotten trapped in the power "hut" tore up the place, and strung wires all over. I appreciate Will's clean builds. 🙂
Code compliance - Can you address the panels still having voltage after the cutoff breaker is thrown? I think the later electrical code (in TX at least) says the individual panels need to be shutdown at the individual panel so there is no voltage on the wires. Probably doesn't apply for off grid, but might if you are connecting to the grid. (BTW I just picked up my batt from signature solar 🙂)
Two things Will, I wonder how good the new Mpp section is at making power compared to the LV6548 (within each working range) and I wonder if there’s going to be a radical price drop on the former?
Great video. I could see myself building this all the way to the panel and then hire an electrician to do the final grid tie. Thank you!
Each unit can surge up to 100ms@≥205% load; 5s@≥150% load; 10s@110%~150% load (specification in the manual). In order to handle that surge power (for induction motor start up current), I recommend to use 4 AWG for Hot and Neutral wires, and 8 AWG for ground wire. Conduits for those can be 3/4 - 1 inch.
I’d love to see this setup as a whole home UPS. I.e. something that can replace all or most of a 200A service.
48kW (This is at 13kW) - gonna need some bigger equipment :) but it's improving quickly. Really you don't need that much though, probably like 60 or 70% of it. Shoot I have 200A service and I don't think I draw more than 18 or 20kW ever (with car charging near 10kW, AC going, cooking or laundry etc).
@@whattheschmidt 2 units = 13kw, but can string up 6 to get 39kw.. that would be 162.5A (about 80% of 200A)
@@wanderlust7020 yes, that's a wild amount of power!
Nice. I like the idea of using those reducer washers. Those holes on the bottom of the inverter are huge.
This was a very informative video, me and my dad are going to do a 33kw setup for mining and this definitely helped.
Great content as usual. In your output panel, if you need a few 120V circuits, is there anything else necessary other than simply using a 120V breaker? Thanks for all you do!
Thanks! And a few 120V single pole breakers is all you need for those loads.
@@WillProwse Figured so but wanted to ask. Thanks a ton!
I bought 30 panels from these guys and bunch of batteries, spent 15k. I need one replaced. They absolutely refused to sell me one. I begged them and offered to pay the extra cost of building a shipping crate. Or come up with a reasonable solution. The best they could do is sell me another $1,000 worth of panels. What a joke.
Sounds normal to me, companies are not in the service business.
I broke 1 of 24 panels and had to source a replacement locally for 3 x the original cost.
@kaf2303 well I am in the service business. I treat my customers right because it's the right thing to do. I also know what one bad review could cost me thousands. It's best just to take care of people and earn your reputation .
They recommended I buy a few extra panels for this reason.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay I tried.
@makwaphy sorry, I meant during your initial order. But that's too bad they wouldn't send you just one....I think they have a lot of damaged panels if they just ship one at a time.
Always dropping valuable knowledge!! Keep it coming will!
Professional explanation and very informative young man. Well Done!
When he said beginner friendly, I laughed so hard I think I had a stroke
Damn, this setup is insane. I'm planning on having a battery backup of 120KWh to be able to charge a 100KWh EV. I wonder how much it would cost. Hopefully smaller, more powerful batteries are invented.
Was also looking into Lavo hydrogen fuel cell setup since it can provide 40KWh of electricity.
The server rack setup Will shows is 30 kWh and costs about $10k.
Lavo cells have very low round trip efficiency, you'll get out ~50% of the energy that you put in. Very expensive storage relative to LiFePO4.
What would be more efficient is if the solar arrays, thru an MPPT could go directly to the batteries in the vehicle. There is very much waste in the conversion process to go to AC, to put into an AC to DC charger for a vehicle. 30% loss when done this way.
I have been doing so much research to cobble together a set up for our future solar system to power all of the home needs plus the shop and this is what I have been waiting for! Awesome!
You is a don 😎 of off grid ⚡️
I’m just running a mid range 12v inverter!.
It’s such a nice fuzzy feeling,
When I get free power in this day un age 😄
Are you going to compare this to the growatt inverters? These inverters are more expensive but it seems you don't need a transformer like with growatt which makes it easier to setup from what I can tell. Now what happens if 1 of the inverters go down and your using a 240v outlet? Will the other inverter cut out instantly too? Something you don't have to worry about with growatt, hence the transformer which steps down to 120v
No because they're stupid expensive.
You mention that you could connect it to the grid. Can you go into detail as to how you would do that and what products you recommend for doing so?
You can look the manual up online. They recommend 4awg wire and you feed it from you main breaker panel. I was worried when I installed mine but it’s fairly simple.
@@GavinStoneDIY I was talking about when Will mentions you could connect with an automatic transfer switch. I want to know how to wire the ATS to your main system and what ATS is good. Are there other ways of connecting than an ATS? The 4awg wire does not address HOW it will connect, just the type of wire.
@@stevereschke3317 ah I see. I misunderstood your question. I guess I will have to rewatch the video. I don’t see the sense in wiring an ATS into the system when the inverters come with an internal auto switch already. But maybe I’m not looking at it from the right angle.
You have come a long way from you RV video days. Good Job
You are such a value to the advancement of mankind!
Thank you Will!!!
Sorry, but have to call BS on Signature Solar saying the ground/neutral bond in the inverters is correct - and that ground current is acceptable. Reference NEC 250.6 - Objectionable Ground Current. Ground conductors aren't allowed to carry current except in a fault condition (purpose of the ground). In no way should the ground/neutral bond be both at the inverters and the panel. As a test, create a large phase imbalance - say charge your Tesla at 240V and put a 120V large heater on one phase. Maybe several to approach inverter max (these are big inverters). With your voltmeter, measure the AC voltage between the electrical box ground/neutral and the inverter metal chassis. Do the same between each inverter chassis. If you measure anything other than zero volts, you have a shock hazard if you touch those two items. That's why the ground needs to be separate, and never any current flowing.
Also, pretty sure the split phase configuration with two inverters in series is not-UL listed. Just because the manual shows lots of configs doesn't mean that all configs (and settings) are UL listed. The listing seems to indicate a stand-alone single inverter setup.
Their reasoning is that a traditional meter and panel have two bonds, and the current on the ground in that instance is not an issue. They argue that it is protected and short distance, so it should be fine and pass inspection. I'll measure the potential between the cases with large imbalance. I do agree with you but everyone's saying I'm wrong.
Oh I didn't think of that. Im being told that hundreds of systems have passed inspection with this configuration. Stand alone inverter would make more sense.
@@WillProwse I don't know even what they are saying about the meter. Understand these guys want to sell product - they are not code experts by any stretch. The meter doesn't even have a 'ground' between it and the electrical panel - just hots and a common (neutral). There is no double bond. Anyway, for your testing, you can also measure the current at various neutral and ground conductors with a clamp meter in your setup. You'll see how the large phase imbalance current is sharing between the neutral (white) and ground (green) wires - which is not at all the function of the ground.
@@WillProwse Yeah, ETL testing is also pretty lax depending who they use. Tests per UL standards, but not UL. If UL actually tested and certified for them they'd check way more things, and that manual without any depiction of how to hook up ground would be a non-starter.
@@billjohnson3344 yeah very true. I'm being told the older model, lv6548, from another distributor, passed inspection multiple times even without PV screw terminals. I don't get it. And yes good points about UL and etl
Fantastic video I love how well you always explain all of this stuff.
I just started my journey on building an off grid solar system and this is the best channel I have found so far. I wanted to start with the solar panels and build my system from there but you did not cover the panels you are using for this system in this video. I have a 2 story apartment metal building on my property that I want to convert to 100% off grid solar. It has electricity now but I want to bypass it all and run it off grid. The reason I wanted to put the solar panels on first is because the ceiling is a little hot in places due the the metal roof and metal roof joist. I was hoping that I can deflect some of the heat with the panels so that is why I wanted to start with the panels first. Im sure I can continue searching your videos to figure out what you used on this system but would appreciate any info you can shoot my way.
Thanks for a great video.
john
13kW ... This is huge ! WoW this could power 3 houses ... Big thanks for uploading this content !
This video got me hooked on your channel. Well done mate.
I have always loved your videos young man! I am an old guy and also an inspector, contractor, multi-talented journeyman and I have one thing to comment on your devise that may save a lot of confusion and possibly someone being very much electricuted or hurt from lack of knowledge. National Electric Code specifically calls the Neutal Wire and intentionally grounded conductor meaning it carries just as much juice and power as the black or hot wire as you are describing! I too did not know the difference but you have really a potentially fatal error in your configuation by connecting the intentionally grounded conductor and the ground to the serice panel only without making the panel go to a ground bar outside that makes the green have the pathway and possiblity to ground the white conductor to the intended grounding source with is the earth!
I hope that makes sense young man and it is not my desire to chide you or take away from your helpful handiwork but to both help you and all of your followers understand and implement the intended safety feature of the earth ground!
Blessings in Him,
Dave
I have no idea what you are talking about, but I hope I could get my own place and set up something like this. It seems you know what you’re talking about! 👍🏽!
Excellent video - demonstration of your knowledge is impressive. A master's class in home power.