I have no job and I can't afford the tools. They are very expensive here in Portugal but one day I will be able to get them and I will follow your steps and advises thanks for the lessons God bless you
1. Glexo cold glue 2. Carepoint flat bar 3. Hayes Freeman pivot tips/ ratchet hatchet 4. Vip new tips. Half moon/ standard 5. Edgytools mini tips/ and paddle 6. Tequila tools new gutter hook/ light lense 7. Keco dead center tabs/ crease killer foot
Yea, newbies watching this... the cold glue or just hot glue will pull paint if it is not the factory paint job. The car in this clip lost its paint because it has bondo from a previous repair and because bondo is NOT flexible and is brittle, it’s integrity was already compromised before the PDR was even performed. Only a factory paintjob will do the best at withstanding the pulling from any glue during a PDR repair. This is because the car factories follow all the correct protocols from bare metal, to the factory E coat which is (electro charger zinc coating) to the zinc based primer, to the epoxy sealer, then base and clear coat. All these layers work best because each layer is designed to stick BEST to the layer previously applied and so forth. At a bodyshop.., despite bodywork or not, it is not necessary to strip a car to the metal in order to perform a paintjob, there fore all that is necessary is to properly sand the surface of the existing paint job (without removing paint) and then spray the base color and the clear coat. The difference is that a bodyshop basically applies a paint job over the existing clear coat of the factory paint job. The verdict is.... base coat/clear coat sticks better to epoxy sealer better than it will stick to an already existing paint surface. “Yes” a bodyshop “can” use an epoxy sealer to aid in better adhesion but that option COSTS money and in some cases it may even not be a practical choice if the repair is a small one or if the vehicle is not worth that kind of investment. Epoxy sealer (not 2k primer) is best suited if the car is getting a full complete paintjob. It aids in adhesion and helps achieve consistent color coverage of the new paint job 2k primer is best suited for spraying over bondo repairs and minor imperfections. I wish more shops would acquire PDR to replace at least 1/3 of body damage on vehicles that come to body shops. I started doing PDR recently and I love this channel!.
Great review Myke! I just got the flat bar from Care Point and I love it. That titanium tip shrinks metal with ease with no marks or babies created 😀 Next on my list is the crane tool, killer whale and mini pirates hook. Keep those reviews coming!
Great job Toledo I love your videos bro 👍 you give me some really good tips on what tools to look for thanks one I'm a just learning this art what light do you recommend me any suggestions would be much appreciated thanks Master 👍
I have no job and I can't afford the tools. They are very expensive here in Portugal but one day I will be able to get them and I will follow your steps and advises thanks for the lessons God bless you
1. Glexo cold glue
2. Carepoint flat bar
3. Hayes Freeman pivot tips/ ratchet hatchet
4. Vip new tips. Half moon/ standard
5. Edgytools mini tips/ and paddle
6. Tequila tools new gutter hook/ light lense
7. Keco dead center tabs/ crease killer foot
Awesome tool list and agree!
@@denttime myke I have 4 stainliner tools in a cart but just waiting to order. I'm sure they would have made the list.
Thanks for the reviews Myke! Got to re-arrange my wish list now.
great too as really undeceive on a basic kit to do my own cars. thanks a mill
Great video and solid list. Can't wait to see part 2!
Yea, newbies watching this... the cold glue or just hot glue will pull paint if it is not the factory paint job. The car in this clip lost its paint because it has bondo from a previous repair and because bondo is NOT flexible and is brittle, it’s integrity was already compromised before the PDR was even performed.
Only a factory paintjob will do the best at withstanding the pulling from any glue during a PDR repair. This is because the car factories follow all the correct protocols from bare metal, to the factory E coat which is
(electro charger zinc coating) to the zinc based primer, to the epoxy sealer, then base and clear coat. All these layers work best because each layer is designed to stick BEST to the layer previously applied and so forth.
At a bodyshop.., despite bodywork or not, it is not necessary to strip a car to the metal in order to perform a paintjob, there fore all that is necessary is to properly sand the surface of the existing paint job (without removing paint) and then spray the base color and the clear coat. The difference is that a bodyshop basically applies a paint job over the existing clear coat of the factory paint job.
The verdict is.... base coat/clear coat sticks better to epoxy sealer better than it will stick to an already existing paint surface. “Yes” a bodyshop “can” use an epoxy sealer to aid in better adhesion but that option COSTS money and in some cases it may even not be a practical choice if the repair is a small one or if the vehicle is not worth that kind of investment. Epoxy sealer (not 2k primer) is best suited if the car is getting a full complete paintjob. It aids in adhesion and helps achieve consistent color coverage of the new paint job 2k primer is best suited for spraying over bondo repairs and minor imperfections.
I wish more shops would acquire PDR to replace at least 1/3 of body damage on vehicles that come to body shops. I started doing PDR recently and I love this channel!.
Great review Myke! I just got the flat bar from Care Point and I love it. That titanium tip shrinks metal with ease with no marks or babies created 😀
Next on my list is the crane tool, killer whale and mini pirates hook. Keep those reviews coming!
Awesome thanks Peter!
How can I contact you? I wanna take a class with you
Great video
Very nice set of tools thank you
Great list and Top notch video buddy!
Wat tools fo you recomend for beginners. As a kit.
Great job Toledo I love your videos bro 👍 you give me some really good tips on what tools to look for thanks one I'm a just learning this art what light do you recommend me any suggestions would be much appreciated thanks Master 👍
Thanks for the great video's. i am having a problem buying a whale tale and carepoint flat bar from your links. Any suggestions?
Thanks
that cold glue, butyl rubber?
Cold glue says page not available
Than you bro~ extremely useful. Appreciate you.
Another great video Myke! What did you shoot this footage with?
Where can I get the black cold glue at? Excellent videos.
Hi i'm denter here in saudi arabia
Thank you
How much use can you get out of the cold glue before it needs replacing?
Thanks!
A long time. Id say 2 years at least but depends on weather climate.
Ferramentas top parabéns!
"mine is shorter width wise,it also has a slow curve" sorry im immature
Iam from New Zealand but where can I buy these tools please
AnsonPDR.com
Anywhere in Australia or new zealand
How much the whole set of tool of pdr?
How to purchase the tool i choice..anaconda,whale tail,sliding hammer,reaper small and large..
Great, 🇵🇱🇵🇱🇵🇱
Cold ? Looks like body panel glue.
Dale Mark it’s definitely not that. I use to think the same.
👍👍👍
“Dent Wizard guys”? Cmon man... Dent Wizard sucks! They’ve ruined the market with their back door under the table deals.
Is this a paid endorsement?
Metal rods for hundred$ of dollars. Wow. PDR tool selling is today's snake oil. Never heard so much BS. Every channel about it, is just an ad.
Good job!