It was so freakin’ awesome seeing you integrate your other shop technologies into this process! You are a smart young man Austin! Great work! Keep it coming amigo!!! 😁👍🏼
I used to do all that in a large steel shop.. including making the part files. I MUST SAY its IMPRESSIVE seeing you do all those bends by hand and you work comes out looking great! very nice!!! subbed
Make your hinge points smaller (longer relief cuts). Then heat the hinges ant it will bend super easy. Been thinking about getting one of those tables for a while now. Thanks for sharing your experience with the learning process.
With Pierce delay you see the biggest difference in the holes. Pierce delay is basically the amount of time in between where the torch fires and then starts moving for the cut . If the pierce delay is too short and the arc does not penetrate the material fully before it starts moving. You often get a trailing arc that can contribute to the beveled cut. The thicker the material the longer your pierced delay needs to be. But just in fractions of a scent. Definitely not an expert but I'm happy to help to the best of my ability 😎 been running this table for about 2 years now .
Very nice 👌 this will pay for itself almost immediately. As for a good "Break" ... take a look at Harbor Freight. Also keep an eye out....any of the local sheetmetal shops. Sometimes they are upgrading their equipment... various reasons.. but you can sometimes get a great deal on used equipment. Some of the supply companies in the area... for metal work and machinist and machinery repair. Have knowledge of used equipment. Your going to be putting on an addition to your shop before long... paint booth... fab section.. 👌 Growth is good 👍 Looking forward to seeing the truck additions and then the FJ.
That's cool too watch n definitely I learned there is little bit entitled to plasma cutting table definitely u made yours more user friendly. Yup time for the fj40 can't wait bro
I don't have my plasma table yet or any experience with one, but with my cnc router, if my cuts are at a taper, then that means that the router bit is not sitting at 90 deg with respect to the table...it is tilted just a bit. Also if the holes are elongated or squares aren't square, then the stepper motors need adjusted / calibrated.
Awesome project!! That plasma table will get a lot of use for sure. How about a stand or table for your saw? Better than working on the floor. Keep up the great videos!!
Love that channel, have you considered kicking the stove and building/buying a stand up oven 4x4x6. Its a game changer like that sweat plasma table will be. Just a thought.
A really good air dryer will help with the dross. Also slowing down corners and radius’ to 1/2 speed will make holes way better. I you do lead ins and lead outs same thickness as the material you’re cutting you’ll have a uniform perimeter and better holes. Got my plasma 10 years ago I can send pics of cut quality off the table before cleaning if you’d like to see
Thanks! I have been doing these things and its helping! I may still have some moisture in my air I need to address! How much dross are you getting? Some people say you will always have it but I have seen some very clean plasma cuts!
@@austinniemela a desiccant air dryer is the best low cost solution. I have 2 water catches, then desiccant air dryer, then debri catcher then it goes through to the plasma which has its own filter. When I change out the desiccant and cut 1/4” or 1/8” MS at 45amp I can take the part off the table and the top has nothing and the bottom has about 1/16 max dross that knocks off with a fingernail and absolutely no angle. Would still have angles on holes a little bit but I just oversized them 1/16”.
@@pauldavis1890 I have a copper pipe cooler, water trap, desiccant, and a motor guard filter! I don’t know, some how I must still have moisture, all signs point to it!
I really enjoyed your video! I would like to know what the primer stage of your powder coating process is about? Is that a primer or ???? Thanks ,Geoff
Awesome video as usual ! I can see a lot of great custom pieces being cut out on that table... I'm not sure but when I've watched other guy's with their plasma cutters I'm sure the start their holes in the middle so it doesn't tail off into the piece. Anyway cheers and thanks for the entertainment. Sydney Australia MATE 🇭🇲👍🦘🇭🇲🇺🇸🇭🇲🦘👍🇭🇲
Nice mods. I don't understand why Langmuir doesn't change the drain design on the pans. It seems to be the first modification everyone makes to their table. I've been planning to do the same as you did on mine.
When dealing with 1 1/4" drain fittings...In a P-Trap kit there is a gasket (fat one) for 1 1/4" tube. You just use the normal 1 1/2" sink nut. Plumber pro tip.
A nice 12 gauge 48" finger brake isnt cheap. Last i saw was 4k from tennsmith. But thats the only one i would buy because im always doing thicker metal bends.
With taper… check online for better information - but, visualize the shape of the plasma arc looking from the side… it has a taper to it which will effect the taper of the cut. Higher cut height, taper wider at the top. Lower cut height, taper wider at the bottom. See if you can find a better explanation online regarding this as it may help.
get rid of the hand torch and put a machine torch on so the cables don't pull the nozzle out of plumb, you would be surprised we were........also the table next to the wall is a mistake they cut but they are messy........ happy cutting 73 Mike K1FNX near Boston
If you really wont thé best cut kwalitie out off your tabel you need a fixt noselholder. They so much more stable. But the down side is you Cant cut Manuel anymore.
Plasma cutters simply have that beveled kerf, its because of the way the air swirls around in the tip. The only way to fix this is to get better torches and consumables. That is what sets the hypertherms apart from these cheap chinese cutters.
I would sugest trying to run you cuts through one time without that toilet paper style filter on the line, they are really bad about restricting the amount of volume you can pass through an air hose at once especially a 3/8 hose with standard fittings. A Desiccant Air Cleaner would be a much better choice for your setup that will let more air move through it consistently.
Hey hey fucknnn hey LOL it's ya goofy m8te from Australia 😆 love ya show [ HOLDEN COMMODORE VE UTE HSV Maloo R8 E series LS3 turbo start up accelerate sound ] - mate type that in on utube watch n enjoy...it only goes for 1.56 sec but wait till you see it..on a big screen..[ let me know what you think about the car in a reply ] ya goofy m8te from Australia
Say, for future projects, you say sometimes when machine shops rebore your engine cylinders, they sometimes do it wrong. Have you thought about getting your own boring/lathe machine to rebore engine cylinders yourself? Or would that just be impractical?
It was so freakin’ awesome seeing you integrate your other shop technologies into this process! You are a smart young man Austin! Great work! Keep it coming amigo!!! 😁👍🏼
I used to do all that in a large steel shop.. including making the part files. I MUST SAY its IMPRESSIVE seeing you do all those bends by hand and you work comes out looking great! very nice!!! subbed
For your pierce holes, you need to do lead in and outs on your cuts. That will allow a clean cut around the parts.
also need to adjust rotation of your cuts Counterclockwise for inside cuts, clockwise for outside.
Very cool stuff! Next project- cart or table for the evolution and get it up off the floor😊
Excellent spray can technique
Make your hinge points smaller (longer relief cuts). Then heat the hinges ant it will bend super easy. Been thinking about getting one of those tables for a while now. Thanks for sharing your experience with the learning process.
Awesome to see you're rockin the prime weld pierce delay sometimes play a part in that cut quality as well thanks for the great content 😎
Hey man I’ve watched a few of your videos! How would pierce delay affect the cut?
With Pierce delay you see the biggest difference in the holes. Pierce delay is basically the amount of time in between where the torch fires and then starts moving for the cut . If the pierce delay is too short and the arc does not penetrate the material fully before it starts moving. You often get a trailing arc that can contribute to the beveled cut. The thicker the material the longer your pierced delay needs to be. But just in fractions of a scent. Definitely not an expert but I'm happy to help to the best of my ability 😎 been running this table for about 2 years now .
Can't wait to see your next project..
Brilliant! I so want a plasma table now!
you're an absolute joy to watch my friend. please keep the content coming !
Do you have the plans available for the Cut60 shelf?
Pretty flipping sweet addition to shop!
fun tip: metal paint scraper is the fastest easiest way to knock the dross off the back
You are such a talented dude! Keep up the good work brother
Very nice 👌 this will pay for itself almost immediately. As for a good "Break" ... take a look at Harbor Freight. Also keep an eye out....any of the local sheetmetal shops. Sometimes they are upgrading their equipment... various reasons.. but you can sometimes get a great deal on used equipment. Some of the supply companies in the area... for metal work and machinist and machinery repair. Have knowledge of used equipment. Your going to be putting on an addition to your shop before long... paint booth... fab section.. 👌 Growth is good 👍 Looking forward to seeing the truck additions and then the FJ.
I really enjoyed this, so cool to see all the pieces come together
Just rad! Insane!
I’ve been building replacement plasma bed inserts for the past week 12 in total its 3x24 meters 2 cutting heads and cuts 2” hardox plate like butter
I would freaking kill to have Austin build my ‘86 SR5.
I like how a new plasma table isn’t that expensive but a new press brake is eighteen million dollars.
That's cool too watch n definitely I learned there is little bit entitled to plasma cutting table definitely u made yours more user friendly. Yup time for the fj40 can't wait bro
I don't have my plasma table yet or any experience with one, but with my cnc router, if my cuts are at a taper, then that means that the router bit is not sitting at 90 deg with respect to the table...it is tilted just a bit. Also if the holes are elongated or squares aren't square, then the stepper motors need adjusted / calibrated.
Awesome project!! That plasma table will get a lot of use for sure. How about a stand or table for your saw? Better than working on the floor. Keep up the great videos!!
Maxed out that oven
Love that channel, have you considered kicking the stove and building/buying a stand up oven 4x4x6. Its a game changer like that sweat plasma table will be. Just a thought.
A really good air dryer will help with the dross. Also slowing down corners and radius’ to 1/2 speed will make holes way better. I you do lead ins and lead outs same thickness as the material you’re cutting you’ll have a uniform perimeter and better holes. Got my plasma 10 years ago I can send pics of cut quality off the table before cleaning if you’d like to see
Thanks! I have been doing these things and its helping! I may still have some moisture in my air I need to address! How much dross are you getting? Some people say you will always have it but I have seen some very clean plasma cuts!
@@austinniemela a desiccant air dryer is the best low cost solution. I have 2 water catches, then desiccant air dryer, then debri catcher then it goes through to the plasma which has its own filter.
When I change out the desiccant and cut 1/4” or 1/8” MS at 45amp I can take the part off the table and the top has nothing and the bottom has about 1/16 max dross that knocks off with a fingernail and absolutely no angle. Would still have angles on holes a little bit but I just oversized them 1/16”.
@@pauldavis1890 I have a copper pipe cooler, water trap, desiccant, and a motor guard filter! I don’t know, some how I must still have moisture, all signs point to it!
I really enjoyed your video! I would like to know what the primer stage of your powder coating process is about? Is that a primer or ???? Thanks ,Geoff
Someone was showing the sparks. They are suppose to go down at an angle. If they come up above the workpiece the feed rate is too high.
Austin, that’s coming along great man. You have the gimmick going on
Awesome video as usual !
I can see a lot of great custom pieces being cut out on that table... I'm not sure but when I've watched other guy's with their plasma cutters I'm sure the start their holes in the middle so it doesn't tail off into the piece.
Anyway cheers and thanks for the entertainment.
Sydney Australia MATE
🇭🇲👍🦘🇭🇲🇺🇸🇭🇲🦘👍🇭🇲
the first thing I would make is a laptop stand. lol
Thanks, Austin! Looking forward to seeing more of this plasma table.
How big is your shop? It looks like a pretty ideal size.
What you do before the electro estatic paint? Is that a sand blast or something?
What were you setting for cutting aluminum?
I see a new blast cabinet. Did you give up on the Harbor Freight one?
Can you sell the plans for the cut 60 mount on your site?
If you find another oven you could cut the joining sides out and have a wider oven.
where did you get the longer cables?
What powder coating gun are you using? Projects a looking great.
🤣🤣❤️👍🏼 that’s exactly what I would’ve done too powder coated it😁❤
use Oxalic acid mixed in the water to prevent rust
Nice mods. I don't understand why Langmuir doesn't change the drain design on the pans. It seems to be the first modification everyone makes to their table. I've been planning to do the same as you did on mine.
When dealing with 1 1/4" drain fittings...In a P-Trap kit there is a gasket (fat one) for 1 1/4" tube. You just use the normal 1 1/2" sink nut. Plumber pro tip.
Wait.. so you can put a 1 1/2” p trap on a 1 1/4” pipe with just a gasket?! Good to know
Респект мужик👍💪
Great video, I have a question, why don´t u use a mechanized torch?
I need to order one!
A nice 12 gauge 48" finger brake isnt cheap. Last i saw was 4k from tennsmith. But thats the only one i would buy because im always doing thicker metal bends.
Yeah they aren’t cheap! I would want one that can bend 12-11 gauge for sure!
For that you sandblasting metal before painting???
With taper… check online for better information - but, visualize the shape of the plasma arc looking from the side… it has a taper to it which will effect the taper of the cut. Higher cut height, taper wider at the top. Lower cut height, taper wider at the bottom.
See if you can find a better explanation online regarding this as it may help.
Taper that’s plasma for the holes especially on thicker materials
Any issues with this unit? I've seen some serious stuff popping up lately and I'm looking for a system but hesitant to buy
@@normanfab4178 it’s been great!
Yay! Bring on the FJ!
get rid of the hand torch and put a machine torch on so the cables don't pull the nozzle out of plumb, you would be surprised we were........also the table next to the wall is a mistake they cut but they are messy........ happy cutting
73 Mike K1FNX near Boston
That green truck is a oh mama kinnda truck Austin
Nice mods
If you really wont thé best cut kwalitie out off your tabel you need a fixt noselholder. They so much more stable. But the down side is you Cant cut Manuel anymore.
Plasma cutters simply have that beveled kerf, its because of the way the air swirls around in the tip. The only way to fix this is to get better torches and consumables. That is what sets the hypertherms apart from these cheap chinese cutters.
What type powder coat gun is that your using?
Redline EZ50
Woodward Fab finger break
I completely understand why you did it this way, but would have loved to see you use Cerakote on these instead of Van Sickle. Just sayin’…. 😁
I would sugest trying to run you cuts through one time without that toilet paper style filter on the line, they are really bad about restricting the amount of volume you can pass through an air hose at once especially a 3/8 hose with standard fittings. A Desiccant Air Cleaner would be a much better choice for your setup that will let more air move through it consistently.
Makes sense! I am upgrading to all 1/2” lines and that may help!
@@austinniemela that will certianly help, just remember when plumbing the airlines its only as good as the smallest restriction.
Check out Mike Festiva here on the tube, hes been running these tables for a few years and has some videos on settings and mods and whatnot
Доброго здоров'я привіт з Одеси Україна.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎
FJ40 Time!
Tip may be too big
you sir need a wider press.
Absolutely!!
🇮🇶♥️🌹
But can it cut a 🍕
You must not have a wife and kids🤔 because my wife and kids wouldn’t leave me alone long enough to do a damn thing out in the shop🤦🏻♂️
Haha I have a wife and 2 kids! I just lock the door 😂
Hey hey fucknnn hey LOL it's ya goofy m8te from Australia 😆 love ya show [ HOLDEN COMMODORE VE UTE HSV Maloo R8 E series LS3 turbo start up accelerate sound ] - mate type that in on utube watch n enjoy...it only goes for 1.56 sec but wait till you see it..on a big screen..[ let me know what you think about the car in a reply ] ya goofy m8te from Australia
Say, for future projects, you say sometimes when machine shops rebore your engine cylinders, they sometimes do it wrong. Have you thought about getting your own boring/lathe machine to rebore engine cylinders yourself? Or would that just be impractical?
leave much less material between your bend cut lines, say 3/16in, and youll love how it bends.
cut max amperage all the time tune the feed speed till it cuts nice