Great video. I never knew there were hardnesses. One tip that I ALWAYS use... Instead of throwing sparks by sliding the scraper down to the pile and risking breaking up the pile, hold the scraper right next to the pile and pull the Ferro rod BACK AWAY from the tinder pile and all of the sparks will be concentrated more INTO the pile instead of on top of the pile. Try it!!!
Fabulous guys! I love the basic concepts that you guys tought in this video. So many other channels talk as if we are all experienced bushcrafters, and we are not. Thank you so much for keeping it simple. Keep up the excellent work!
I find the harder ferro rod better. It seems more forgiving if my angle is wrong. With the soft ferro rod I can take out big chunks. But being down here in Australia you can just look at the tinder and it will light sometimes. :)
I like the option of doing "push cuts" the harder (Light my Fire 2.0) gives me. My soft rods get a bell shape on the end where my scraper stops after some use. Joe at Feral Woodcraft is the best with the LMF 2.0. One strike (push cut) and he has flame. Thanks for the demo and explanation of different steels. As always, you did a very nice job.
Learn something new everyday. Great discussion I never gave much thought to hard and soft fire steels. Thanks for clearing that up. Thanks for sharing. atb
Hey Krik, firstly thanks for taking the time to make all your videos. I've only just started following your channel but they've all been enjoyable and informative so far. Just a thought for the soft rod, have you tried holding the striker stationary and pulling the rod backwards? You can get a full strike without having to worry excessively about destroying your tinder bundle. Let my know your thoughts. Alex
Great video. I agree that it is skill and preference that makes the difference. You have to do it to find out what you prefer. Thanks Krik and Stoney. Also, you may want to try holding the striker still and pulling the rod away from the pile. This decreases the chance of knocking it over exponentially. Keep the vids coming.
Very well said and done. This is one of the better vids on the subject of soft vs hard. one thing I would add is when striking the soft while anchored, let your for finger stop your stroke before you hit the pile. Also keep your pile slightly out in front of where your steel is anchored. We use soft steels with almost all that we sell because they work great with our fatwood handles. This also allows us to keep the price down. Thanks for a great video.
This is a fantastic video ... I've posted it on several forums ... I was about to make one about the exact same issues ... I bought fairly decent looking ferro rod off Facebook... Really struggled... Then I used one from Woodlore UK... And because you can generate sparks with short thumb push rather than full sweep... It was like night n day... All down to hardness
Great lesson Krik. I am glad for your channel as it is also one that is safe to have the kids watch. Your lessons help my kids motivate to spend time outside. Regarding this topic, I also learned on the Swedish FireSteel style and use one in my edc finding that they not only last longer, but wear more evenly. The last steel that I owned of a softer variety seemed to disintegrate over a winter, and I found over that winter that it had pitted all over and left a great deal of dust in my ruck. Took a great deal of time and energy to clean the dust out of my ruck. I am staying with what I know. Keep up the great programs!
Ferros disintegrate due to electrolysis. Doesn't matter which brand, they all do it. If moisture and a salty (sweat, saline, etc) or acidic substance (soy sauce, tomato sauce, etc) are present the different electrical potentials between the metals that make up the ferro (all ferrocerium fire starters are composed of iron, cerium, lanthanum, neodymium, praseodymium and magnesium - only the ratios change between brands.) cause them to corrode. This can be accelerated if also touching any other conductive object, such as keys, coins, knives, etc. Note that moisture AND a salty and/or acidic substance must be in contact. A ferro can be submerged in fresh water indefinitely without harm.
I find it a lot easier to get close to my tinder bundle and pull the ferro rod away from the striker rather than pushing the striker away from the rod. This decreases the risk of knocking over your bundle. Hope this helps!
In my experience I have also found that if you pull the rod up rather than pushing the striker down tends to be more effective. But it is still a personal opinion. I always keep an open mind when it comes to my survival!
I've been using ferro rods for over a decade and a half now, and have tried them all. Long, short, thin and fat, hard and soft...... Firesteel.com make incredible rods, but expensive.... Majority of my rods are 1/2 by 5 or 6in, and yes I have a 6 inch by 1' inch too. Bigger is definitely better in my opinion, works with even marginal tinder..... I can't thank you enough for sharing your thoughts and experiences on ferro rods with me, I appreciate it sir.
I like to hold my steel at about a 30 degree angle. Then insert my fero rod into the tinder. I then keep my steel in the same spot and pull out on the fero rod. This creates a nice concentrated area of sparks and helps to keep from creating bumps on my fero rods by holding it at an angle.
Very educational video for me. Really shows that they are about equally effective in getting the job done if you take the time to practice using either one. It is clear to me that practice in identifying and preparing your tinder is most important.
I'm up late watching ferro rod action. Nice. Looking outside at the snow here in western pa and thinking about slightly warmer weather for time in the woods. I have bought several sizes from firesteel dot com and have good luck with their formulation. Lotsa sparks and put them in various kits. Even gave one to my son and each of his friends this past fall.
Never saw the push cut method, thank you. Oh, is it better to just take all the black coating off a new Ferro rod or just scrape it off as you use it? Thanks again.
Question: when buying a firesteel, how do you know which is which? Like If I specifically wanted a hard firesteel what would I look for to know I was getting a hard or soft one?
As stated in the video LMF uses the harder composition from Austria. Alot of the softer composition ferro rods originate in China.. The one deciding factor that will determine success with either one is a good sharp edged striker.
Good video for beginners buying they're first ferro rod. I carry a 1/2" wide by 5" long ferro rod in my belt kit and I'm glad it's soft because I can get huge sparks if I need to but I carry a hard ferro rod on my knife sheath because it will last longer then a soft one. Thanks - Teds Outdoors
Agree totally. Most people keep the fire steel stationary and move the striker, instead keep the striker stationary and next to the tinder, then move the fire steel away from the tinder in the opposite direction. Lots of Sparks and don't risk breaking up the tinder.
#1 most important tip you will ever learn about ferro rods = Take whatever ones you have, and the tender you plan on using............................and go practice. In the woods, or in your driveway, don't matter. Just practice with it until it's like walking, and you don't have to be super focused to get it done anymore. I guarantee when the time comes that you really NEED this skill, you will not be at your best, and able to focus well. You may be cold, wet, injured, miserable, exhausted, or who knows what.
I do like the soft ferro rods. I’ve noticed that the amount of sparks is based on the surface area being stroked. Thus I think the best idea is to leave the paint on the rod except for one area, and get that nice and wide. This is also why smaller rods are tricky. I’ll also put in a plug for nathan4701 on eBay - real best of breed ferro rods.
Black Owl, did I miss it or did you not tell us what kind of STRIKER you are using ? I would like to know this ? How much difference do you think that makes ? Thanks for the video it was very interesting and well made.
Thanks for clearing that matter up. I just use a very hard steel called a file. It don't shower sparks like a ferro rod. But it sure has lit many a fire in the stove! Lasts a lifetime too. Just make a little char and find a sharp rock and your good to go! But ferro is something that looks fun to have. But they wear out and that smoke of a flare.... Not good. Smooth down the edge of a file... It works too.
Whats your thought on holding the striker close to the fat wood or featherstick and then pulling the steel back towards you, have seen and read where this is a better way.....your thoughts?
A metal tube a bit bigger in DIA. than the ferro works VERY well. Put a slot in it a bit wider than your striker, close to the bottom but not all the way down. Strike through the slot and all the sparks funnel down through the tube in a concentrated blast. Mine is a 3/4" rod in an almost 1" aluminum tube. Drilled the tube at the same height as the rods lanyard hole and strung them together.
Can you somehow see on the ferro rod if its soft or hard or do you need to strike it to know? Good video. I come to believe this with ferro rods, strikers, striking, tinder and stuff is a science of its own. :) Thank you for sharing! /Ulrica
I think you'd need to strike it. I'm not sure you can tell just from looking at it. And you're right, it's definitely a science of its own. Lots of small variables.
You don't have to choose one or the other... I Carry both a hard one and a soft one as well as lighters, Titan storm proof matches, gigantic Fresnel lense, a regular x10 magnification magnifying glass, etc., etc.
Yes! Always carry at least 3 sources. Knowing a few friction methods is always good since you cant lose them.. However it takes time, skills, calories and good conditions and good tinder. Learn and practice friction, but save it for when a bear or creek takes off with your quicker, easier ways.
lonewarrior1999 Here in the States, the central to Eastern parts anyway, this member of the magnolia family is popular for several reasons: 1. It is fairly abundant. 2. As hardwoods go, it is nice soft wood, so it is great for friction fires. 3. The tree is self-pruning, so the branches present themselves on the ground and ready for harvest. 4. After the branches dry the bark readily separates from the wood. 5. The wood, after the bark comes off, or starkly white and easy to spot and identify. 6. The bark shreds freely and gives us fibers for fire tender of cordage.
SpiritofWildWings I never knew any of that thanks. Where I live in the UK there are alot of fallen trees or large tree limbs that have fallen in fields and the owners of said fields are more than happy for us to take it away. It is usually oak or ash trees so it's perfect for going on our woodburner and keeps the house nice and warm.
lonewarrior1999 I know over there that a lot of wooded areas are planted with harvesting in mind. Not so with this tree. It is a good wood to carve though.
Wondering if carrying a small steel wood scrapper, one wood workers use, would be advantage for scraping bark, Attwood, ect. If it was small , fit in your knife sheaf. .
I know this is an old video and this may have been brought up in the older comments, but I have to say that you failed to use one technique that is useful with a fragile tinder. You can hold the striker still while you pull the rod toward you, while keeping an upward pressure against the striker. Nothing except sparks are traveling towards your tinder bundle this way and it's safe from being blown apart by the moving hand. I still appreciate your video and thank you for it. After all, I chose to tack this little tip to your comment section rather than take the time to produce my own video, so your way took much more effort.
What I do to avoid destroying the tinder with the striker is the following: I grip my knife hilt in my fist and put my fist firmly on the ground. Pretty much like I'm punching the ground. I then pull the Ferro Rod back along the backside of my knife - away from the tinder. This way I don't risk destroying or messing up the tinder bundle but still can use a lot of force on the rod and get in real close.
I've tried that method, not for me in most cases. Maybe I need to just practice more. But my success rate is pretty high with my methods. Thanks for the suggestion.
ferro rods can oxidize into a worthless powdery surface ,exspesially near the ocean air. i keep mine coated in petrollium jelly in an air tight container . after i learned the hard way when a good portion of my rod had oxidized to junk. if you got one stashed away that you havent seen in along time it might not be to good.
Coat the entire rod with clear nail polish. This will also reduce or eliminate oxidization near oceans and salt water or even brackish water. Coat it several coats, let each coat dry before applying the next coat. Be certain that the rod is clean and sterile, no oil or fingerprints as these may cause some oxidation underneath coating. After completely dry when needing to use, scrape or with a knife ,carve away a streak of the polish off the rod, a pathway for friction is needed, then strike as usual but only in the cleared pathway. The idea is to preserve the coating as much as possible with minimal scraping away so the striker can be effectively deployed. Water resistance is key to controlling oxidation. I have done this for years without any oxidation problems. I hope this will help you. God bless.
Talk about collective consciousness! This week I was asking my self about the difference in fire rods and this video came out, thank you very much! Do they vary in magnesium content? Is that the reason one is softer than the other? Does any one generates a hotter spark? Sorry for the questions but I am beginning to learn and do not know much about the topic.😔
From my understanding most hard rods are made in Europe while most soft rods are made in China. That alone should tell someone which one to buy no? I hate it when a reviewer can't clearly take position. All products are good, all products have pros and cons... this is what makes useless reviews! P.S. : I gave a LIKE to this video because everyting else is great : showing different technics, closeups on the tinder and the tools, high def picture, a calm and confident voice with good rythme.
I'm pretty sure there is more magnesium in the softer one, that's why it doesn't spark if you don't give it a little more oomph, and also why it's softer. Additionally, that's why when it actually does put off sparks, it's a bigger flash.
With the Pathfinder, you where "over shooting", in other words, you where throwing Sparks OVER the "feather",. But still a good, informative video.😁👍✝️✝️🇱🇷
Another method to control the shower of sparks is to hold the strike stationary and pull the ferro rod away from the tinder..the shower will proceed out from the striker, onto the tinder.
I would say get the softest you can. With the hard ones, you have to scrape harder, so you will wear both out at roughly the same rate. But the advantage of a soft one is that if you lose your steel scraper, you have far more chance of getting a spark using a stone. It's easy to suggest using flint or glass, but where are they, when you really need them? And they too will work better with a soft rod anyway. I have a hard ferro rod, and I've yet to find a stone that will knock out sparks. And not for the want of looking.
I drill them all the time, no problem. I set mine on a piece of wood to protect the drill bit from hitting something hard when it exits the ferro. No need to be under water. Drill slow and no sparks or drill fast and lots of sparks. No big deal either way.
Now wouldn't a Bic lighter give you more fires than any Fero Rod.Three thousand strikes for three thousand fires,just putting it out there.Good vid young man thank you.
A bic won't be effective in wet weather. There are numerous advantages of fire rods over bics including the fact they are non mechanical and won't have mechanical issues. I have used up a bic in three months and I have a fire rod I have been using for twenty years and it isn't a third of the way used up but very close. I carry both because everyone knows that carrying at least three ways to start fires means a fire will be had one way or another. I carry a large zippered pouch in which I am equipped to make fire in as many as 20 different ways and have the right equipment to do it. Bic is convenient but non refillable. The lighter, once fuel is completely used up, is still useful for starting fires if you know how to do it. I do. The art of making fires is also a science. There are many ways to make fire cheaper than bic, using only found materials. I wouldn't go around impressing others with the bic answer because real fire masters would look at you as a fool. Try to study the art, learn what a Rudiger roll is or what other techniques you can learn. Learn firelays, construction and dowsing. Study different woods. Learn the art of firestarting. Learn compression methods of starting fires. Study the science of coals and their generation. You may need this knowledge one day when you become desperate to survive or building things or tempering woods of various varieties. Learn the uses of fires and how versatile fire is. Learn the use of fungi of various types used in firemaking and also promoting health. In short, get educated, smarty pants. I am 64 yrs old and still looking for something new in fireworking. This old dog can be taught new tricks, so long as there is a new trick to be learned. I served in the US Marine Corps and learned a lot about survival but was already familiar with it through scouting and Civil Air Patrol and then there is putting what I learn into practice. David West on youtube puts out some of the most amazing and knowledgeable videos in the art and science of firemaking and is truly world class in ability. Look him up and learn something. He works magic with firestarting and leaves no technique unexplored. Learn from a world class master firemaker not your two dollar bic.
I see the owl icon in the upper right hand corner and it draws my attention as it changes from the owl to the owl with the text. I thought you were counting strokes for each attempt.
If we're talking about hardness, presumably some objective scale should be used to measure and specify it. For ferro rods, what is that? A very basic measure would be a technique used in minerology. Will one rod material scratch another? A better method would be the use of a readily available pocket hardness tester. This video would have been considerably enhanced by providing such information. Finally, the US Dept of the Interior has formally determined that, without the invention of the ferro rod, there would be 50% fewer RUclips videos. ;-)
if the ferro rod striker doesn't work take a file and grind an edge on to it I filed my piece of hacksaw blade and it works fine just a good thing to know
I just bought a 1" x 6" ferro rod - the harder, lower-magnesium type. It works fine, but it's too heavy to carry around in a pocket or on a belt. Smaller ones (1/2" x 5" or smaller) are much better for EDC.
If you will hold your striker at your tinder bundle and pull back on your rod you will never destroy your bundle and you will concentrate your sparks on the bundle. Showering is a horrible waste of your rod. Thank you.
Great video. I never knew there were hardnesses. One tip that I ALWAYS use... Instead of throwing sparks by sliding the scraper down to the pile and risking breaking up the pile, hold the scraper right next to the pile and pull the Ferro rod BACK AWAY from the tinder pile and all of the sparks will be concentrated more INTO the pile instead of on top of the pile.
Try it!!!
Fabulous guys! I love the basic concepts that you guys tought in this video. So many other channels talk as if we are all experienced bushcrafters, and we are not. Thank you so much for keeping it simple. Keep up the excellent work!
Excellent Points with New Twists Included-
Thank You!
I find the harder ferro rod better. It seems more forgiving if my angle is wrong. With the soft ferro rod I can take out big chunks. But being down here in Australia you can just look at the tinder and it will light sometimes. :)
I like the option of doing "push cuts" the harder (Light my Fire 2.0) gives me. My soft rods get a bell shape on the end where my scraper stops after some use. Joe at Feral Woodcraft is the best with the LMF 2.0. One strike (push cut) and he has flame. Thanks for the demo and explanation of different steels. As always, you did a very nice job.
Thankyou friend, great job. I appreciate you taking the time to show us these ideas.
Learn something new everyday. Great discussion I never gave much thought to hard and soft fire steels. Thanks for clearing that up. Thanks for sharing. atb
You guys are at the top of your game with these last few videos. Great stuff as usual. So much care with your shooting and editing
Thanks amigo.
Hey Krik, firstly thanks for taking the time to make all your videos. I've only just started following your channel but they've all been enjoyable and informative so far.
Just a thought for the soft rod, have you tried holding the striker stationary and pulling the rod backwards? You can get a full strike without having to worry excessively about destroying your tinder bundle. Let my know your thoughts. Alex
Great video. I agree that it is skill and preference that makes the difference. You have to do it to find out what you prefer. Thanks Krik and Stoney. Also, you may want to try holding the striker still and pulling the rod away from the pile. This decreases the chance of knocking it over exponentially. Keep the vids coming.
Great video. Simple but contains all the necessary information. Thank you.
Very well said and done. This is one of the better vids on the subject of soft vs hard. one thing I would add is when striking the soft while anchored, let your for finger stop your stroke before you hit the pile. Also keep your pile slightly out in front of where your steel is anchored. We use soft steels with almost all that we sell because they work great with our fatwood handles. This also allows us to keep the price down. Thanks for a great video.
Great walk through, i primarily use a LMF army firesteel as tend to use the technique with harder steels ~Peace~
This is a fantastic video ... I've posted it on several forums ... I was about to make one about the exact same issues ... I bought fairly decent looking ferro rod off Facebook... Really struggled... Then I used one from Woodlore UK... And because you can generate sparks with short thumb push rather than full sweep... It was like night n day... All down to hardness
Great lesson Krik. I am glad for your channel as it is also one that is safe to have the kids watch. Your lessons help my kids motivate to spend time outside.
Regarding this topic, I also learned on the Swedish FireSteel style and use one in my edc finding that they not only last longer, but wear more evenly. The last steel that I owned of a softer variety seemed to disintegrate over a winter, and I found over that winter that it had pitted all over and left a great deal of dust in my ruck. Took a great deal of time and energy to clean the dust out of my ruck. I am staying with what I know.
Keep up the great programs!
dan toti Thanks for watching. And that's really cool we can motive your children. They're never too young to enjoy the outdoors. Take care. -Krik
Ferros disintegrate due to electrolysis. Doesn't matter which brand, they all do it.
If moisture and a salty (sweat, saline, etc) or acidic substance (soy sauce, tomato sauce, etc) are present the different electrical potentials between the metals that make up the ferro (all ferrocerium fire starters are composed of iron, cerium, lanthanum, neodymium, praseodymium and magnesium - only the ratios change between brands.) cause them to corrode. This can be accelerated if also touching any other conductive object, such as keys, coins, knives, etc.
Note that moisture AND a salty and/or acidic substance must be in contact. A ferro can be submerged in fresh water indefinitely without harm.
I find it a lot easier to get close to my tinder bundle and pull the ferro rod away from the striker rather than pushing the striker away from the rod. This decreases the risk of knocking over your bundle. Hope this helps!
In my experience I have also found that if you pull the rod up rather than pushing the
striker down tends to be more effective. But it is still a personal opinion. I always keep an open mind when it comes to my survival!
I've been using ferro rods for over a decade and a half now, and have tried them all. Long, short, thin and fat, hard and soft...... Firesteel.com make incredible rods, but expensive.... Majority of my rods are 1/2 by 5 or 6in, and yes I have a 6 inch by 1' inch too. Bigger is definitely better in my opinion, works with even marginal tinder..... I can't thank you enough for sharing your thoughts and experiences on ferro rods with me, I appreciate it sir.
Excellent demonstration, Krik. Keep up the good work.
Great video, trying to begin my bush crafting.
I like to hold my steel at about a 30 degree angle. Then insert my fero rod into the tinder. I then keep my steel in the same spot and pull out on the fero rod. This creates a nice concentrated area of sparks and helps to keep from creating bumps on my fero rods by holding it at an angle.
just learned something about the use of hard and soft fire steel. very interesting session. thanks.
Great Video and Channel! Any chance on doing a product review of our Firestarter?
Very educational video for me. Really shows that they are about equally effective in getting the job done if you take the time to practice using either one. It is clear to me that practice in identifying and preparing your tinder is most important.
I definitely agree. The most important knowledge is in the natural materials.
Thanks Kristyanna!
Great review of the differences. Thanks
Your camera skills were sooooo nice in this
+HeadBang4Christ777 My brother is pretty handy with the steel
Great and informative video. Thanks.
Cool tip. If you loose your striker and or knife you can actually use a sharp rock flake or glass
I'm up late watching ferro rod action. Nice. Looking outside at the snow here in western pa and thinking about slightly warmer weather for time in the woods.
I have bought several sizes from firesteel dot com and have good luck with their formulation. Lotsa sparks and put them in various kits. Even gave one to my son and each of his friends this past fall.
Krik, I enjoyed the video super, the soft Fire stick has more Magnesium which makes it softer and gives you clumbs sparks.
really nice demonstration of the differences. Thanks for a great vid!
Never saw the push cut method, thank you. Oh, is it better to just take all the black coating off a new Ferro rod or just scrape it off as you use it? Thanks again.
Question: when buying a firesteel, how do you know which is which? Like If I specifically wanted a hard firesteel what would I look for to know I was getting a hard or soft one?
That's what she said
As stated in the video LMF uses the harder composition from Austria. Alot of the softer composition ferro rods originate in China.. The one deciding factor that will determine success with either one is a good sharp edged striker.
Dominick Cabal c
Great vid krik.
I cut my fat wood down to pencil
Size and run it through a clear
School pencil sharpener in the
Plastic case
Good idea
I use a magnesium pencil sharpener with mine. Same idea though. ;)
Excellent video!
Thanx Krik, very good video and educational Thanx Bro.
Good video for beginners buying they're first ferro rod. I carry a 1/2" wide by 5" long ferro rod in my belt kit and I'm glad it's soft because I can get huge sparks if I need to but I carry a hard ferro rod on my knife sheath because it will last longer then a soft one. Thanks - Teds Outdoors
Great vid! Love my Light My Fire. .
Great video
Very informative and helpful!
Great video!
Agree totally. Most people keep the fire steel stationary and move the striker, instead keep the striker stationary and next to the tinder, then move the fire steel away from the tinder in the opposite direction. Lots of Sparks and don't risk breaking up the tinder.
I've tried that method, not for me in most cases. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Nice! Very! Thanks!
Nicely demonstrated 👌🏽👍🏽👍🏽😎best wishes brother
#1 most important tip you will ever learn about ferro rods = Take whatever ones you have, and the tender you plan on using............................and go practice. In the woods, or in your driveway, don't matter. Just practice with it until it's like walking, and you don't have to be super focused to get it done anymore. I guarantee when the time comes that you really NEED this skill, you will not be at your best, and able to focus well. You may be cold, wet, injured, miserable, exhausted, or who knows what.
Great simple tips to help aid in, preventing many ferro rod strike attempts of frustration lol
I do like the soft ferro rods. I’ve noticed that the amount of sparks is based on the surface area being stroked. Thus I think the best idea is to leave the paint on the rod except for one area, and get that nice and wide. This is also why smaller rods are tricky. I’ll also put in a plug for nathan4701 on eBay - real best of breed ferro rods.
I’ve used Firesteel.com for years, don’t know if it’s hard or soft just know that they work great!
Black Owl, did I miss it or did you not tell us what kind of STRIKER you are using ? I would like to know this ?
How much difference do you think that makes ?
Thanks for the video it was very interesting and well made.
victor castle 1:57
Thanks for clearing that matter up. I just use a very hard steel called a file. It don't shower sparks like a ferro rod. But it sure has lit many a fire in the stove! Lasts a lifetime too. Just make a little char and find a sharp rock and your good to go! But ferro is something that looks fun to have. But they wear out and that smoke of a flare.... Not good. Smooth down the edge of a file... It works too.
Whats your thought on holding the striker close to the fat wood or featherstick and then pulling the steel back towards you, have seen and read where this is a better way.....your thoughts?
Thank you for this video!
Sharp edge of a pair of ✂️ is the best striker I found
great info guys, thanks!
A metal tube a bit bigger in DIA. than the ferro works VERY well. Put a slot in it a bit wider than your striker, close to the bottom but not all the way down. Strike through the slot and all the sparks funnel down through the tube in a concentrated blast.
Mine is a 3/4" rod in an almost 1" aluminum tube. Drilled the tube at the same height as the rods lanyard hole and strung them together.
Your the Expert Mam...😂🤣 Lovely.
Can you somehow see on the ferro rod if its soft or hard or do you need to strike it to know?
Good video. I come to believe this with ferro rods, strikers, striking, tinder and stuff is a science of its own. :) Thank you for sharing! /Ulrica
I think you'd need to strike it. I'm not sure you can tell just from looking at it. And you're right, it's definitely a science of its own. Lots of small variables.
thanks for your answer
New Subscriber Here Earthling Bless Up
Did he just call me a turtle
That's exactly what I just thought
Cause you are a turtle
You don't have to choose one or the other... I Carry both a hard one and a soft one as well as lighters, Titan storm proof matches, gigantic Fresnel lense, a regular x10 magnification magnifying glass, etc., etc.
i also carry a small bottle of 1liter of gasoline, it is a good fire starter in emergency.
Yes!
Always carry at least 3 sources. Knowing a few friction methods is always good since you cant lose them.. However it takes time, skills, calories and good conditions and good tinder. Learn and practice friction, but save it for when a bear or creek takes off with your quicker, easier ways.
I buy all my Ferro rods on amazon.but they don't tell you if they are hard or soft . Which brand are soft or hard ?
Hi guys, as someone who lives in the UK I have never used tulip poplar and I was just wondering how long and roughly how hot it burns. Thanks.
From a heating value standpoint, it is a little better than pine and about the same as aspen.
SpiritofWildWings Thanks I was just curious as tulip poplar seems to be the only wood I have ever seen krik use. Thanks for the info.
lonewarrior1999
Here in the States, the central to Eastern parts anyway, this member of the magnolia family is popular for several reasons:
1. It is fairly abundant.
2. As hardwoods go, it is nice soft wood, so it is great for friction fires.
3. The tree is self-pruning, so the branches present themselves on the ground and ready for harvest.
4. After the branches dry the bark readily separates from the wood.
5. The wood, after the bark comes off, or starkly white and easy to spot and identify.
6. The bark shreds freely and gives us fibers for fire tender of cordage.
SpiritofWildWings I never knew any of that thanks. Where I live in the UK there are alot of fallen trees or large tree limbs that have fallen in fields and the owners of said fields are more than happy for us to take it away. It is usually oak or ash trees so it's perfect for going on our woodburner and keeps the house nice and warm.
lonewarrior1999 I know over there that a lot of wooded areas are planted with harvesting in mind. Not so with this tree. It is a good wood to carve though.
Are the different colored handles always indicative of whether the rod is hard or soft? Thanks.
AnOldManInTheWoods no they are not... It varies on brands
Wondering if carrying a small steel wood scrapper, one wood workers use, would be advantage for scraping bark, Attwood, ect. If it was small , fit in your knife sheaf. .
Love fatwood.. Best natural starter out there...
Also add punk wood! Really ez to lite, but you gotta keep it dry😁👍✝️🇱🇷
I want to get a harder composite ferro rod but I don’t know which one to get. I’m a bit on a budget so I’m having difficulty finding one
do you have the paper bark tree in your area in California the bark can be peeled very flammable ,sparks ,then fire
Bark from every birch works.
I prefer the harder composition ferro rods from Austria, specifically the Light My Fire Army 2.0 being my go to ferro rod.
I know this is an old video and this may have been brought up in the older comments, but I have to say that you failed to use one technique that is useful with a fragile tinder. You can hold the striker still while you pull the rod toward you, while keeping an upward pressure against the striker. Nothing except sparks are traveling towards your tinder bundle this way and it's safe from being blown apart by the moving hand. I still appreciate your video and thank you for it. After all, I chose to tack this little tip to your comment section rather than take the time to produce my own video, so your way took much more effort.
What I do to avoid destroying the tinder with the striker is the following: I grip my knife hilt in my fist and put my fist firmly on the ground. Pretty much like I'm punching the ground. I then pull the Ferro Rod back along the backside of my knife - away from the tinder. This way I don't risk destroying or messing up the tinder bundle but still can use a lot of force on the rod and get in real close.
I've tried that method, not for me in most cases. Maybe I need to just practice more. But my success rate is pretty high with my methods. Thanks for the suggestion.
ferro rods can oxidize into a worthless powdery surface ,exspesially near the ocean air. i keep mine coated in petrollium jelly in an air tight container . after i learned the hard way when a good portion of my rod had oxidized to junk. if you got one stashed away that you havent seen in along time it might not be to good.
You are right Darrell. I put motor oil on mine.
Coat the entire rod with clear nail polish. This will also reduce or eliminate oxidization near oceans and salt water or even brackish water. Coat it several coats, let each coat dry before applying the next coat. Be certain that the rod is clean and sterile, no oil or fingerprints as these may cause some oxidation underneath coating. After completely dry when needing to use, scrape or with a knife ,carve away a streak of the polish off the rod, a pathway for friction is needed, then strike as usual but only in the cleared pathway. The idea is to preserve the coating as much as possible with minimal scraping away so the striker can be effectively deployed. Water resistance is key to controlling oxidation. I have done this for years without any oxidation problems. I hope this will help you. God bless.
Talk about collective consciousness! This week I was asking my self about the difference in fire rods and this video came out, thank you very much! Do they vary in magnesium content? Is that the reason one is softer than the other? Does any one generates a hotter spark? Sorry for the questions but I am beginning to learn and do not know much about the topic.😔
the more magnesium content the softer it is most times it comes out in clumps.
What is the most medium hardness ferrocerium rod?
From my understanding most hard rods are made in Europe while most soft rods are made in China. That alone should tell someone which one to buy no? I hate it when a reviewer can't clearly take position. All products are good, all products have pros and cons... this is what makes useless reviews! P.S. : I gave a LIKE to this video because everyting else is great : showing different technics, closeups on the tinder and the tools, high def picture, a calm and confident voice with good rythme.
I'm pretty sure there is more magnesium in the softer one, that's why it doesn't spark if you don't give it a little more oomph, and also why it's softer. Additionally, that's why when it actually does put off sparks, it's a bigger flash.
With the Pathfinder, you where "over shooting", in other words, you where throwing Sparks OVER the "feather",. But still a good, informative video.😁👍✝️✝️🇱🇷
Another method to control the shower of sparks is to hold the strike stationary and pull the ferro rod away from the tinder..the shower will proceed out from the striker, onto the tinder.
What are some brands that are similar to LMF?
I would say get the softest you can. With the hard ones, you have to scrape harder, so you will wear both out at roughly the same rate. But the advantage of a soft one is that if you lose your steel scraper, you have far more chance of getting a spark using a stone. It's easy to suggest using flint or glass, but where are they, when you really need them? And they too will work better with a soft rod anyway. I have a hard ferro rod, and I've yet to find a stone that will knock out sparks. And not for the want of looking.
I'm new to this, when buying a fire steel how do I know if I'm buying a hard one or soft, will it list it on the package?
Most likely it won’t say.
I have some blank rods and I wanted to know is it safe to drill into them?
Damien Cantu If you drill with the rod under water, you should be okay.
I drill them all the time, no problem. I set mine on a piece of wood to protect the drill bit from hitting something hard when it exits the ferro. No need to be under water. Drill slow and no sparks or drill fast and lots of sparks. No big deal either way.
Where can I get a good hacksaw blade like that?
A knife or sciaors are rhe best
Now wouldn't a Bic lighter give you more fires than any Fero Rod.Three thousand strikes for three thousand fires,just putting it out there.Good vid young man thank you.
A bic won't be effective in wet weather. There are numerous advantages of fire rods over bics including the fact they are non mechanical and won't have mechanical issues. I have used up a bic in three months and I have a fire rod I have been using for twenty years and it isn't a third of the way used up but very close. I carry both because everyone knows that carrying at least three ways to start fires means a fire will be had one way or another. I carry a large zippered pouch in which I am equipped to make fire in as many as 20 different ways and have the right equipment to do it. Bic is convenient but non refillable. The lighter, once fuel is completely used up, is still useful for starting fires if you know how to do it. I do. The art of making fires is also a science. There are many ways to make fire cheaper than bic, using only found materials. I wouldn't go around impressing others with the bic answer because real fire masters would look at you as a fool. Try to study the art, learn what a Rudiger roll is or what other techniques you can learn. Learn firelays, construction and dowsing. Study different woods. Learn the art of firestarting. Learn compression methods of starting fires. Study the science of coals and their generation. You may need this knowledge one day when you become desperate to survive or building things or tempering woods of various varieties. Learn the uses of fires and how versatile fire is. Learn the use of fungi of various types used in firemaking and also promoting health. In short, get educated, smarty pants. I am 64 yrs old and still looking for something new in fireworking. This old dog can be taught new tricks, so long as there is a new trick to be learned. I served in the US Marine Corps and learned a lot about survival but was already familiar with it through scouting and Civil Air Patrol and then there is putting what I learn into practice. David West on youtube puts out some of the most amazing and knowledgeable videos in the art and science of firemaking and is truly world class in ability. Look him up and learn something. He works magic with firestarting and leaves no technique unexplored. Learn from a world class master firemaker not your two dollar bic.
To be fair, you should have compRed the same diameter rods. It does make a difference!
I see the owl icon in the upper right hand corner and it draws my attention as it changes from the owl to the owl with the text. I thought you were counting strokes for each attempt.
I'll stick with a hard rod. It's all in your technique and knowing how to properly use the tool. They last longer too.
If we're talking about hardness, presumably some objective scale should be used to measure and specify it. For ferro rods, what is that? A very basic measure would be a technique used in minerology. Will one rod material scratch another? A better method would be the use of a readily available pocket hardness tester. This video would have been considerably enhanced by providing such information. Finally, the US Dept of the Interior has formally determined that, without the invention of the ferro rod, there would be 50% fewer RUclips videos. ;-)
I prefer soft steels. I tend to pin and pull using only the first few inches of the rod
if the ferro rod striker doesn't work take a file and grind an edge on to it I filed my piece of hacksaw blade and it works fine just a good thing to know
a small needle/ jewelry file itself can throw some good sparks too.
Just as compact as a piece of hacksaw blade.
I was told to keep the striker still and move the rod
I tried that and gave myself a sore shoulder.
After watching this.....I just want to use a hard ferro for everything now... :\
Its pretty obvious hard rods are better. this video I think in the UK where I live due to tinders that I harvest regularly
I just bought a 1" x 6" ferro rod - the harder, lower-magnesium type.
It works fine, but it's too heavy to carry around in a pocket or on a belt.
Smaller ones (1/2" x 5" or smaller) are much better for EDC.
Im fine, how are you turtle?
If you will hold your striker at your tinder bundle and pull back on your rod you will never destroy your bundle and you will concentrate your sparks on the bundle. Showering is a horrible waste of your rod. Thank you.
Tulip trees and feather sticks? fat wood?Ya?..Uh?... they be growen right down by the crick. Never hear of em.
thanks blove
i like turtles