Three of the Best Ferro Rods: My Personal Top Picks
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
- Ferro rods, firesteels, or fireflashes, are common names for the ferrocerium sparking devices that have become very popular. There is a wide proliferation of models on the market, some good, some not so good. In this video I talk about which ones I like, and why. I do mention specific brands I like but also talk more generically about the qualities and features that are important to me, and I see working for my students too.
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I'm fairly certain that your one item survival tool would be a knife....
Mine's a motorhome .
😅😢
I just subscribed. I wanted a good Ferro rod, especially since mine on my knife sharpener barely sparked to make a fire. My motorcycle broke down and I always have my Leatherman Knifeless Rebar, a knife, a cheap knife sharpener, and some 1st aid stuff, all in a pocket pouch in my motorcycle jacket. I was out very late, about a hour from home and about 5 miles from the nearest city. Somehow my spark plug broke and I was able to get it out but it was getting cold. I was barely able to get a fire going and then I just relaxed by my fire until morning when I walked to town and hid my bike. I ended up getting a spark plug and the guy at the auto parts gave me a ride back to my bike. He also had sockets, so I didn't have to use needle nose pliers to install the new plug. I am thinking about adding a space blanket and a few sockets under my motorcycle seat, so hopefully if I get into a similar situation, I will be more prepared. I was lucky it was 40 degrees that night and not colder. It happened just before Christmas. I am also going to pick up some tinder pellets, because I had trouble finding anything for tinder. Most of the wood was wet. Luckily my jacket and motorcycle pants are waterproof and warm. I also where a face mask. My phone didn't have signal, so I think I did the right thing. It was kinda cool sitting by a fire, I live in the city, so I wasn't able to do that in years. 😅
I only buy StrikeFire and Light my Fire rods, agree fully. One other thought: most strikers do not work, at least without modification, for left-handers - the burr has been created for right-handed striking. I’ve sometimes found that is a reason why beginners or children are failing to strike, and that’s another reason for me why the push technique with one’s knife tip is ultimately better, as it is ambidextrous.
Hey Martin, good to hear from you and that my choices resonate. Good point about LH usage of some strikers too. All the best, Paul
@@PaulKirtleyI do particularly like that StrikeFire now use recycled ocean plastics for their handles. Thinking about your last video too, I just wish they offered them in orange as well as black! Cheers, Martin
The very best striker without a doubt?
A 3" long piece of hacksaw blade... Wrap a little padding, then a little black electrical tape around the first half to save your fingers... Perfection
I have a longer ferro rod per Canterbury’s advice. I created a handle for purchase at one end using 1 inch duct tape. It provides the grip as well as emergency back up tinder.
Sounds like a good solution!
I primarily use a ferrocerium rod I actually found in a cave in North Central Florida, reminds me of your strike fire due to the handle design. Also, I really like my bayite, which I made a handle out of fatwood for, connected to a carbide Striker via paracord. It is a little on the chunky side, but it will certainly shower some Sparks.
It sure is a great day when you get to see something new from Paul Kirtley. Thanks for doing everything you do.
Thanks for your kind and positive words. They are much appreciated.
I’d been struggling for months with a ferro rod that came with my TBS knife. After seeing one of Nick Goldsmith’s videos, I bought an 8” rod from Forest Fundamentals and actually got a fire started. Difficult to say whether this was because of the new steel or because I’d spent more time processing my tinder and shaving curls off the steel onto that tinder. I suspect the latter may have been a factor - I doubled the amount of birch bark I’d hitherto been processing and then did a bit more. I was very happy to have finally succeeded, though.
It's always a good feeling to achieve success with fire-lighting. Sparking onto birch bark can be quite variable. The quality of the bark has a lot to do with it but also the amount of preparation, making enough dust or shavings to catch the spark then have sufficient fuel to sustain the flame before you add more material. Keep practicing with the tool that you find easiest and you'll get more and more consistent for sure.
Thanks Paul for great video. It’s good to see your experienced views. We at scouts probably spark more times than you, but you light a million fires where as the scouts light one fire and spend the next hour sparking into fresh air reducing it to nearly matchstick thickness!!
Primal instincts I suppose.
Thanks again
Haha, yes I've seen this tendency a lot with young people. It's fun! 🙂
The Aussie ferro rod is actually imported from Europe. The striker from China. Put together in Aus. Why they are so similar to the other 2. Good content Paul, thanks.
Yup I know. They are all made in the same factory in Austria.
Thanks Paul. You’re a consummate professional and have always prioritized the dissemination of proper knowledge via social media over it being a form of entertainment, and I very much appreciate that.
Thanks Carl, I appreciate your comments.
I like to use a bar shaped garden tool sharpener for a striker. It’s bigger and easy to hold and the tungsten edge throws a good spark. Plus, when you are using the sharpener on a big rod, you are using more gross motor skills. Some of the smaller strikers require more fine motor skills which can be difficult to utilize in cold weather or under stress.
Yes, a decent striker makes a huge difference. As long as you have it with you, when you need it, definitely opt for what works best for you.
I work in a daycare in Denmark and have taught the kids (4-6 years old) how to use the Light My Fire Army. After a few tries they can light cotton balls. The harder rod allows them to do it. Thanks for all the great info!
Thanks for this Paul 👍 this cleared up why I struggle with certain striking techniques and certain Ferro rods. I know it’s not just me 👍
Thanks for the information!!
Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts, Paul: much appreciated as always.
As you say, long lanyards are a must when teaching (and using). Following your “orange” post, I’ve bought a spool of cheap and cheerful orange paracord-type cordage and replaced all my troop’s lanyards with long, hiviz ones. Ironically, the first session involved one being put down in autumnal leaf litter….
Good to hear from you Rob. Pocket lanyards are definitely the way forward for critical kit, whether one is coming from a survival instruction or general outdoor instruciton perspective, it makes 100% sense.
so much information in such a short video, always amazing! thanks
I'm glad you thought so. Thanks for your feedback.
Thanks for your sharing your opinion.
Thank you for considering it. All the best, Paul
My old Strike force steel is still going strong. I think I showed it to you when I was on your Woodlander course. I don't think these one's are available any more. Which is a shame as they're very good.
Good to see you back with your top quality vids . ATB
Hi Norm, yes I remember that one and you being really happy with it. Glad it is still going strong. All the best, Paul
As always, great information for everyone Paul. Great to see your videos popping up in my subs again.
Many thanks. Look foreword to the next one 👍
Thank you for your kind words. More videos on the way 🙂
Paul, I too have gravitated towards the harder rods over the past years as they do seem to offer more options to me. I also picked up one of those giant 12mm models and it’s a huge rod that just doesn’t get carried. Most often I carry several of the small LMF, but I chuck them into my drill and turn the handle down in size against a file. Fits in my pockets better I think.
Yes, it's interesting - I've heard from quite a few people that they don't like to carry the big ones. Great you have thought about what you need and have customised your LMF to what works for you.
Great job on the video
A great video sir. I always learn something new watching them. Cheers from SW Virginia.👍
Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it. Warm regards, Paul
Good to see a new video from you again Paul 👍🏻
I’ve only used Strikefire and Light my fire, both have worked fine.
Good to see you back at it on the youtube!
Thanks. I'm attempting to be more consistent. Glad you like the videos.
This video sparked some interest.
This comment was very bright of you.
I’ve actually grown to like the old-style long strikers, though I do agree they’re less comfortable. Along with using it as a striker, I use mine for anything you’d use the spine of your knife for: stripping off outer bark, making fine shavings from fatwood, etc. It works a little better and has the side-effect of keeping my knife clean.
I like the tungsten striker with longer handle you find in old fashioned tool shops. The are actually sharpeners used by farmers.
Thank you for another great video. Happy Thanksgiving. 😊
My pleasure. Likewise. Have a great weekend!
I have an old firesteel. Looks like the British one on the left. It has 'fireflash' written on the handle.
I like the "Army" size too. Its neither too big nor too small!
Great stuff, Paul!
After watching your original video where you were showing the slow technique that you employ on the hard rods with the tip of the knife/striker, I tried some LMF rods for myself. Prior to that I was only using the softer rods offered by pretty much all other brands. I found that the hard rods that you suggest are the most versatile . You can use them how you suggest, slow and controlled using just the tip of the rod and the tip of the knife/striker, and also use them the way most people use the soft rods with longer strokes and increases speed. With the soft rods you can only use the rods to create sparks in this way and going slow/smooth doesn't produce any sparks. I use the LMF's now and have been enjoying them. Thank you!!
Hi there, thanks for your comments and feedback on my earlier advice. I'm happy to read it was useful in choosing your ferro rods and improving your fire-lighting results. All the best, Paul
Great info Paul 👍. I have both types of Ferro rods & use the softer rods while playing with my BBQ or lighting an alcohol stove for a coffee, but in my kits they are all the hard rods. 🔥🇨🇦. Yes I would enjoy some more videos on this topic.
Thanks for your feedback both on this video and on what you'd like to see going forwards. Yes, there is usually a place somewhere even for the suboptimal rods - BBQs, gas stoves, etc 🙂
Great video Paul
Thanks Jack.
Glad to see another great video Paul. I've found the Ferro rods from the bushcraft store to be quite similar to the Light My Fire and FireFlash rods, although slightly harder, but not by much. Your technique of using the end of the knife still works well on them.
Hi Theo, thanks. Good feedback on the TBS rods. I've heard from others that they struggled with them, and some day they were soft, so maybe they have a variety of suppliers or models for their own-branded rods over time? Any thoughts?
@@PaulKirtley Hi Paul, you could be right about them using different suppliers. Just to clarify about my experience with the TBS Rod, I purchased it in Late 2020 and found it requires a little more force than the light my fire Rod but still produces good sparks when used with your technique. Not sure if this means it's harder or softer, I thought harder but wanted to clarify so it's not lost in translation.
Another great video Paul
I was lucky many years ago I found a supplier on the big buying/bidding platform that was selling cheap but good fero rods, once I knew they were good I stocked up and have a good supply, they have since gone down hill in quality.
I sometimes struggle to teach some Scouts how to use a fero rod but I think you may have given me an idea to help them, I use paint scrapers for there strikers as the are cheap and have a decent handle, however I think the long scraper could be part of the issue so I might cut it down forcing them to use the scrapper closer to the handle.
Good video as always, I hope to me engaged again next year once my Uni course has finished.
Hi Justin. Sounds like you struck a little goldmine of supply there. Nice one. And, yes a decent scraper makes a huge difference.
I've got a dragon's breath. It's great.
First thing I do with a ferro rod is put a really long lanyard on it that ties to my belt. That way, I can't put it down in my excitement as the fire starts and lose it.
Coughlin is a good ferro rod, it's a great mix and lasts a real long time
Hi Paul, thanks for the video, I use a Dragon Sneeze from Muddy Fox it is more bulky than most having a wooden handle for both the Rod and the Strike but still fits in my pocket, I like the handles really firm grip no matter how tired or cold I might be, and even my 7yr old nephew can get a good shower of sparks from it . I have others usually ones I have purchased attached to knife sheaths but to me it seems that the strike is more important than the ferro, I have found I can get very good showers and direct sparking with almost any rod using my Dragon Sneeze scraper. I agree totally about the thin ferro rods I have broken a few and my nephew struggled to even hold it firmly
Hi Ted, lovely to hear from you and thanks for your input. I've just looked these up and I really like the reasons behind the design, as well as the design. For anyone else interested, here's a short video I found ruclips.net/video/k-fZW_E_sx4/видео.html Thanks Ted. Cheers, Paul
Thank you Paul!
I'll try your way of striking the ferro rod on the tip. Seems it would help save the rod for more strikes!
I love the 5"x1/2" bayite with some 1" gorilla tape wrapped around the top for a handle. Showers of hot sparks.
My comment applies mostly to children in training. Beautiful Bride brought three wonderful young troops to our marriage seven and a half (7 1/2) years ago. Beautiful Daughter was able to use the thumb grip on her ferrocerium rod with no issue. She found it impossible to get a good purchase on the striker supplied with the ferro-rod. We tried out several "scrap" items from the junk box and she had great success with a blade from a broken pair of scissors. I fabricated a custom tool steel striker with a grip sized for her tiny Asian hands. BINGO, we had a winner! Difficulty with using a ferrocerium rod is not always inherent to the rod itself. Sometimes, the problem lies in the supplied striker. I was asked by friends why I simply did not hand her a Mora knife with an altered spine. She does have a knife but we wanted her to have a ferro-rod in the school emergency kit that the DepEd (Department of Education here in the Philippines asked all parents to send to school with their students way back before the COVID pandemic hit with associated lockdowns. We went full-on and built our students' 72-hour bags that gave us time to pick them out in the worst of disasters if such happened.
Strike-a-lite is great. I've had mine years and still going strong
Great Video and Channel! Any chance on maybe doing a product review of our Firestarter?
I like the dragon breath because of the longer cord already there therefore not requiring to buy then change cord. I started off using the bcb flint and steel long ago. Thankfully products have improved.
Yes, we are lucky in what's available to us now compared to 25 or 30 years ago 🙂
I’ve experienced that the ferro rods with the plastic or epoxy handles come loose and fall off, dropping the ferro rod to the ground during the striking process. I prefer either no handle or the wooden handles, they hold their integrity and seem more secure.
That's a good point. I have seen that happen sometimes too. One can normally hammer them back in again, though.
When I saw the handle of the knife I thought: "Is he really using the Julius Pettersson version of the woodlore for demonstration..."
Yes he did... :D
Never got my firesteel to work properly because the striker was too flimsy, it worked when I used the edge on my knife (the spine is soft steel), this obviously isn't good for the knife.
Ended up carrying two small lighters + 20 matches in a waterproof container as backup. The weight is about the same as one firesteel.
I do like the concept of firesteel because of its durability.
In any case if you plan on cooking inside the tent you can't use a firesteel because of the sparks.
Well, you always need to be careful when cooking inside a tent - fire risk when cooking in the vestibule of lightweight nylon tents and more generally, carbon monoxide being potentially lethal in enclosed spaces. As for strikers, yes a flimsy striker will make life difficult as you can't apply sufficient pressure to the rod without the striker flexing. Best to replace with a stiffer striker or use a knife that is up to it. This all being said, I also carry matches and a lighter. There are things you cannot light directly with a ferro rod.... (edited for typos).
Funny that I like the soft ones and I am having a hard time finding them....
Last one I got that I liked is from 20+ years ago a Swedish branded one every one since has been hard....
Paul you can send me all your soft ones thanks....
haha, OK, well if I find any in old boxes or drawers, I'll let you know :-)
I've got several Swedish Army versions marked "FireFlash"
Now that you mention this, I think I might have one of those somewhere.... you just sparked a memory ;-)
@@PaulKirtley no pun intended! 😁
Any ferro rod works for me (no mini in size, please). Cheap or expensive, it's the striker that matter. Larger and sharper striker is the key. I use my knife as striker.
As always a balanced, honest review, I just wonder why you don't go up to the 1/2 inch X 6 inch ferro rods?
Thanks James. As for the larger rods, I find them too large in my pocket when walking and I can't justify the weight on self-propelled trips. I'd rather take a standard "army" sized rod in my pocket and a spare elsewhere in my kit, for less weight. Thanks for the question!
Only one thing better than a ferro rod for making sparks and that is a grindstone.
🌲🙏🌲Thank you🌲🙏🌲
You are welcome.
Great video! I wonder if the tinder you use has anything to do with liking a harder material to scrape? Could it be something else? I try one of each package of ferro rods I purchase to see how they work, hard or soft etc. I just tried some west lake rods and they seem very soft, and throw lots of sparks and material with a good scraper. The trademark firesteel rods seem on the softer side, and are getting quite expensive lately. Looking forward to the next video!
Filmed in Australia?
The ground ferns look Aussie, and I noticed Gordons bandanna.
Actually filmed in southern England back in late September. The bracken ferns here, Pteridium aquilinum, is similar to the bracken fern, Pteridium esculentum, found in New South Wales, near to Gordo's teaching area. Another common name for these types of fern are eagle ferns, although, that can apply to just one specific species also. The Aussie species has somewhat more coarse fronds than the species local to me but otherwise are very similar in size and character.
I noticed the bandana too 🧐
I think Primus and Hultafors FS are a bit on the softer side.
TBS are as good as LMF or Wildo (also excellent Swedish maker)
Good anecdotal evidence here. Thanks for sharing. Although I do note a variable opinion of the TBS rods. Even reading through the comments here, one can see it. Maybe they are quite variable? I don't know.
@@PaulKirtley I've only bought from them twice about 10 years ago.
Looks like a hit or miss, sometimes.
Once got some really good ones from Ebay for about GBP 2 each from China.
Regarding smaller ones, I got a Jukka-stickan, it's about the same size as the small LMF, early-mid 1990's.
(it got in contact with a can of Wilmas Nordic Summer, and got all corroded...)
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1d1WFTBjzpU9ha1wNiTuiopDKzqHemgfe?usp=sharing
Hello Paul , great video.
Do you have any experience/opinion of the Casstrom , Lapland , "Austrian" Rods ? I've been gifted the 'army' model, with a micarta handle and have never come across this make or model before and find the Austrian/Sweden mention on them to be a bit of a geographical quandry. TIA.
I personally love the softer ferro rods. They throw more metal, therefore more sparks.
But they don't throw more sparks.
Even it seems logical they should.
??? Hi Paul, great video and information, thank you! My question is: what causes horizontal ridges on ferro rods, basically rendering them useless? I’ve heard that harder ferro rods tend to get ridges, and that source mentioned Bayite as a harder one vs LMF being much less prone to ridges as they claimed it is softer? (You claimed just the opposite regarding hardness) I have also heard that it’s a technique issue. Incidentally Bayite ones do seem to be problematic for me in this regard. I don’t currently own any LMF ones but recently picked up a Uberleben that I am very happy with. Thank you.
Good questions. Bayite vs others - it's how it feels to me. I haven't physically tested it with a hardness test. But it's how it feels to me. Definitely more comes off the Bayite rod I had in the video for the same pressure. As for the horizontal ridges, or "speed bumps" as some people call them, it's not an issue I have ever struggled with personally so I think it comes down to technique, rather than material. If the rod is not strongly supported while you strike it, there is a tendency to set up a sort of oscillation that creates the bumps. A few others have mentioned the Uberleben being good too.
@@PaulKirtley thanks, that makes sense about the ridges.
Hi Paul have you come across or used Morakniv Fire Starter
Yes I do have army light my fire ..but first thing I do I take all the plastic of and put a 3 centimetres copper pipe piece you have to stretch it two groves on the firorod punch it and it is secure put a climbing small rope a sliding nut and have it on my belt that I can not lost it at any circumstances.in need I just slide the nut and have about 75 centimetres to used the rod away from my …in about 35 years ago no rod like today I used a small torch striker
Ferorod…and one day I got one from the us army that was a find and about ten years later
Army surplus start to Cary them ….I think it is very important to have it secure on your belt
For striking it I also have the bad habit to made a dip before the end
Experience living Canada at the 55 latitude
my first ferro rod was from decathlon. it was lacking in many respects: striker's burr was not sharp enough and the lanyard disintegrated quickly. due to my bad technique, the rod broke in the middle where it was worn out. it was hard to use.
now i use a wildo fire flash pro, it has a large striker, very ergonomic handles. lanyard is heavy duty and is long enough to not have the problem you mentioned (short lanyard affects striking length).
what i struggle with: getting sparks with a mora knife. your knife seems almost 2x taller than a mora companion. so when place my left thumb on the blade the way you demonstrate, then my thumb can touch the knife's edge. and this is because my thumb is taller than the knife's tip. if i move up on the blade where the blade is taller than my thumb, then it's just awkward.
can this technique be executed with every knife or there are certain exceptions (ie due to size, etc)?
Thanks for your comments and questions. The Mora I use in the video (with the orange handle) is a Mora Companion HD. The spine is thicker than a standard Mora Companion but the blade almost identical otherwise. To maximise the sparks with any Mora Companion (HD or normal), though, is to file the back of the spine really square. Otherwise, you are limited to the part of the spine very close to the tip, where the bevel comes up to meed the spine. It is still possible to create sparks with this part (I've shown this in previous videos) but it requires more precision and the inexperienced who use too much force can easily stick the tip of the knife in one of their fingers if they don't get it right.
How do you prevent the fire steel from getting ridges, and how would you remedy this.
What’s your advice on preventing corrosion of the rods between use? I’ve had several brands develop pitting and oxidation when stored in vehicles and some kits. I’ve resorted to bringing the rods in and using my daughter’s nail polish to seal the rods after use, especially prior to long storage.
Hello Jim , this bit of advice might help you. Number one , try to avoid a saltwater environment, if you fall in dry your ferrocerium rod as soon as you can. Number two, I have found a thick coating of Vaseline helps , as long as you remember to keep re-applying the Vaseline . Happy Trails.
Are the soft ones more prone to developing the "speed bumps" as people tend to call them? I have tried to amend my striking technique but always end up having to file away bumps once they get too severe. Using a Uberleben ferro rod mostly.
My supposition is that the "speed bumps" are more about how people hold the ferro rod (relatively unsupported) than anything else. But rod consistency could also play into it.
I do believe that fire rod can be used until the end.
So we blame Ray Mears, understood 🙃😛
About one thing, at least 🙂
Orange paracord, surly.
Once I re-thread them onto new cord, yes 🙂
I saw that there is now a camping woodcraft knife 🔪made from ferro steel , if you can find and do a video upon this , or how you can use an old horse shoe as a ferro steel...Project.🌎💬 🔥🏁
Can you please tell me which is youre favorite one
Better than a ferro rod are old arc welder sparker tongs.
Get to the point.
The Ferro rod I like the best is the one in my kit.
I just buy a rod with a hole in it and tie some paracord on it.
That's great. Sounds like you are sorted then 🙂