Oliver 70 - Engine Compression Test and Ignition System
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- Working on the Oliver 70 trying to diagnose why the engine will not run smoothly. Performed compression check on all 6 cylinders and installed new plugs and wires. New oil filter. Still runs rough, so I'm sure the problem is carburetion...which will need to wait for the next video. "Progress" is slow but sure?
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I almost didn’t watch because it’s an Oliver and I’m not real interested in them. But I enjoyed your bits of humor thrown in there. “I’m going to use a magneto because…well I have it.” A farmer always gets. The most out of all their equipment!
The way you are with Olivers is the same attitude I have towards Farmall. They are nice tractors and they seem to run well... But they just don't ignite anything inside me. But I'm glad you caught my humor. This tractor project is a lower priority, so I don't want to just start throwing cash at it until I know I want to focus my attention on it. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video Jonelstar :) , your dad and don't give up this tractor also you got classic tractors ones always too!
Thanks 👍
Oliver, The RIGHT Green. LOL I like all tractors, I just like having a bit of fun. My Grandpa was an Oliver/ Minneapolis Moline guy so those two brands are special to me. I enjoy working on Carburetors, but I don't have anyway to test the one you have if I worked on it. I think Chris Losey would be the guy to contact or Ross The Oliver man.
Yeah, i think whatever make we grew up with stays with us forever and remains our favorite. We had all 2-Cyl. John Deere's except for a Ferguson TE20, so you can guess where my loyalties lie. Our neighbor had International Farmalls and an Oliver. I remember the Oliver had a 6 cyl. but the Model i don't recall. As a teenager the neighbor had me dressing points and setting them whenever needed. You only changed points/condenser when absolutely needed. LOL I enjoy watching videos of whatever make being brought back to life. They served our generation well and deserve to be saved.
@KStewart-th4sk I own an Oliver, Minneapolis Moline, Ford, Fordson, and a Case. I had a JD B, but I would rather have a 520. I have favorite models of tractors, not favorite brands.
Thanks for the info. I'll have to look these guys up.
@@BillTheTractorMan Happy for someone like you to have them and the space to keep them as well. We had JD G, AR, BR. My Grandpa had an old International (model i don't know) with steel wheels. Or maybe International McCormick Deering W30. For some reason W30 sticks in my mind, He was still using it when i was very little. Then he got an Allis Chalmers WD45, then a JD D too. I remember my Grandpa losing his false teeth in the field one year, digging them up the next year and finding them. LOL I think he was running that old International when that happened. He had a habit of sticking them in his top pocket. So, i guess they had fallen out when he was bent over, fixing whatever he was towing---cultivator, i think.
@KStewart-th4sk I'm out of space. I live in town and keep my tractors at my local tractor show grounds, which I am a long-time member and volunteer. My wife and I have been working towards buying a hobby farm, but the economy forward facing a decline has us waiting.
I should have added too about the crappy parts that seem to be rampant these days. Someone in the comments or maybe it was the video itself i watched recently talking about 3 new condensers they bought that were no good. We had a Ferguson TE20 back on the farm and i never came across an engine that was so touchy setting the points. If memory serves me right i think it was .021" and if it was a thou over that or under it would run like complete shit. Have the points spot on that number and it ran great. Not sure if you checked the gap on the Oliver or know what it is supposed to be.
We have Wico C magnetos on several of our tractors and I've rebuilt dozens of them and my biggest complaint is that since the points are mounted to the cap then if the cap ever shifts at is removed, then the points need to be re gapped.
@@jonelsonster I am clueless about which is which with the WICO mags. They could not have been C's we had because the points were not mounted to the cap. All i know is one type on our JD's (Ar and Br) back on the farm was temperamental with moisture if it rained. Those 2 were hand cranked but no idea of the year now, unfortunately. The other style it didn't matter how much it rained. The second one had a cover that was a different shape. If the first one didn't start after a rain, taking the cover off and wiping it out was the cure. I will have to find your video of rebuilding a mag that would work on the Oliver. Kind of new here, only discovered your Channel not that long ago. Like that you take time to reply, most don't. But i guess if a Channel has a huge following and piles of comments, that's not possible either. I know how busy a framer is and finding the time to respond is appreciated.
@@KStewart-th4sk my Dad's the farmer. Mostly hobby farmer now. I helped with the farm while I was young. But now I just go up and help on the weekends.
@@jonelsonster Oh OK. My Dad and Mom retired, sold the farm, moved to a small city. I ended up working for the railroad a little over 40 years. Mom passed away in her 70's, Dad lived to 100. He lived and cooked for himself in his house on his own almost to the end. Highly doubt i will do as well!
I bet Chris Losey or Ross the Oliver man could be great resources. Not taking anything from your skills. I think you can get some great ideas with those guys. Good luck!!
I think someone else mentioned those names too. I'll have to check them out.
You could probably get a kit for the carb. GOOD LUCK. 😊
I think that's what I'll do. Buy a new carb kit, go through the carb again (this will be the 3rd time), and hopefully I'll guys it figured out. If not, I'll start liking for a replacement carburetor or find a shop that can test my carb.
@@jonelsonster Maybe you have other problems as well.
I’m like Andrew, I like all tractors, don’t let this one sit too long. Can you find parts for Oliver’s? I’ll wait for the next video. Thanks
A few people have left comments of where I can buy parts. So I'll give them a call.
Oh well, just listening to it running at idle it sounds a lot like a top fuel dragster.
Take it to the track and see what it'll run in the quarter mile. 😊
Great point! I'll just tell people it has a big thumper cam in it!
It sounds like a runny car sitting on the line waiting for the green light
I'll tell people it's got a big ol cam in it, and that's why it runs rough 😅
Its green but it ain't 2 cylinders !. Good luck with that thing
After working on this for s few hours I found myself wishing it was a trusty ol Deere. 😅 But then I see a video of a nice 70 purring smoothly with its 6 cylinders and I want to get this Oliver sounding that good. One day... One day.
Spark plugs look the worst. Would swap them out
Yup, I put new plugs in.
There really shouldn't be any big deal about doing that carburetor. Make sure all the passages are clear, throttle shaft clearance is ok. I have made do with torch cleaning tip cleaners. There is a set that doesn't have that many cleaners BUT there is also a set that has a lot. Sorry i can't recall how many is in the second set. Check the mixture screws and seats for damage. Some people would screw them all the way in hard and damage them. Make sure the float isn't leaking if it's metal. Probably a new inlet needle and seat at the very minimum. I don't know what's available kit wise. As far as the ignition, i would be taking ohm readings on the Primary and Secondary of the coil. Of course you would have to do some research on those parameters. Same goes for the spark plug wires. They should fall within specs as far as ohms per foot of wire. There is info online for that depending on what the wire core is made of. Quick search gave this: "Here are some generic examples of plug wire resistance per foot:
Copper core wire: 1-6,500 ohms
Inductive wire: 650-2,500 ohms
Carbon core wire: 3,000-7,000 ohms
The factory wire (OEM wires) for domestic vehicles are typically fiberglass core spark wires with 10,000-12,000 ohms (10-12 k ohm) of resistance per foot. Meanwhile, import models may utilize a spiral wound wire with 500 ohms per foot of resistance."
I've been through it twice. Every passage seems to be clear. I have followed the carburetor flow chart too. This is why I'm wondering if there is a hairline crack someplace
@@jonelsonster OK thanks. I was not aware of that with the carburetor. We had a guy come check the booms on railroad locomotive cranes with a magnet and powdered iron i guess it would be, They also checked the axles on the crane with some machine. Carb, no idea if there is any way of checking. Whether a person could blank the endplates off with connection to air and underwater, but then again if it's internal that would not work either Your idea, if your friend has one to try, is certainly a good option. I think i would go thru the ignition thoroughly right from the keyswitch to the coil and on. Just because you have spark at the plugs doesn't mean they are firing all the time either. Although i suspect you know all this. Sometimes the best can overlook something.
What’s leaking
Which time? 😅 It's either gasoline dripping from the segment bowl or me draining the water from the coming system.
U buy kit from korves oliver have rebuild
Thank you for the tip! I just liked at their website and it looks like they'll be really helpful. I'll try calling them on Monday. Thanks again! 👍🏻
acvtualy ive been making ignition wires for years and they are really inexpensive
Mine were free.
youe carberator is not functiining ether a stuck float needle seat plugged. Possible hole in float
We were thinking the same thing because it seemed like it was getting too much fuel. I took the carb off and the float seems to be working fine. I'm going to buy a new kit for the carb and go through it again... For the 3rd time. Hopefully I'll find the issue. If not, I'll buy a new carb.
Im certainly no expert. Carburetor may be some of your problems, but i think you have some valvetrain issues. Might have some sticky valves or bent pushrods but it sounds more like wiped cam lobes to me. I hope for your sake its only the carb.
In the previous video with this tractor, I pulled the valve cover and inspected the valvetrain. It all seemed to be in good shape. They all moved freely. Clearances were all pretty good. No bent pushrods. No flat lobes on the cam. So I re-set the valve clearances and reinstalled the valve cover.
turbo kit😂
That should fix everything