(4) 15in Subwoofers Flex Truck Body!| Can Tennis Balls Stop The Flex?| Car Audio Experiment‼️
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
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expanafoam between bed and cab, then paint that black, also you can screw some plywood to that inside wall, with spacers where needed, then foam behind that. makin the part you see a flat wood wall. then carpet that shit black, lookin clean and being strong
True. Ima get some plywood when I get paid and do that. Because honestly I hate the way it looks now 🤣🤣. Even though it’s not done but that does bother me when I look back there
He can apply the deadening first on the inside, plywood, then foam. Should help reduce the distortion. And to the outside, he can put 3 or 4 long 2x4 or the size it can take. Because of all the surfaces area like he said it's sheet metal flexing likena mf...
And so with that to help the 2x4 he can ruff sand and spray it with some black rubber coat weather proof and carefully chunk them in...
Remember that the bed and the cab have to move and rotate independently of one another. The frame does have a certain amount of flex to it. I would not recommend any kind of solid connection between the two.
@@BassAddict91I think you are working in the right direction brother but once you finish the port and bring it through the cab the rest of the way it won't beat on your rear cab wall as bad then once you get some deadening and maybe a single solid piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood and bolt it up to that rear wall it will take away a lot of that rattling then I bet you could even find factory spots in that rear cab wall that would probably just need some washer and bolts that have some heft to them should get it stiffened up and possibly not make you have to run a bunch of bolt holes through the cab that you have to worry about constantly running around and checking to make sure that the sealant around them hasn't flexed of from intense bass but that might only be good up until around 15k on 4 15's before you might have to run planks on the back side between the bed and cab and run bolts through the rear firewall but I'm sure whatever you decide to do will be worth watching
@CarAudioEnthusiasts Hey brother love the wall and the channel nice to have someone finding a different aspect of the car audio scene especially for us older bassheads that like to improvise and still make it look cool and functional without breaking the bank much love brother 👊
Life of a bass head
Right 🤦🏾♂️
Awesome test. A pool noodle across the top of the bed and cab gap may help the middle.
I may try that
@@BassAddict91yes!! Exactly what I was gonna say. A freaking few pool noodles... Trim them bitches if need be... And inside get some sound deadner over all that metal. I use the deaf bonce cause it's one of the best out there and looks nice asf
I did the rear wall of my truck in sound deadening first, then beadliner coated mdf about 5 years ago. No rattles to date. I run a sundown u12 with 2000 watts going to it. ✌️
💪🏾💪🏾
Have a metal square frame made to reinforce the opening surround on the bed and cab. It should reinforce the weak surrounding metal.
Those helped quite a bit. I wonder if you got a few more and cut them in half or (maybe a little more/less than half) and stick them across the top as well. Once the port goes in that will also add a lot of support. You can also build a baffle board for the cab rear wall to help stiffen it but keep it lighter weight. Some square tubing or flat bar would work but that's heavy and you have to weld stuff. A layer of birch ply and a bunch of sikaflex or similar adhesive would do the job without punching screw holes in the body. You can cover all that in sound deadener afterwards and it should be solid asf.
Things looking better every month.
Yeap little by little bro
Hey. Try some rubber padding. Glue them together for the thickness that you need and that should help. That's some pressure my boi. Lol 😂
Bolt a peace of ply wood to make the wall stiffer and bed line a couple of layers on it for sound dentner in side and out . Use the blue hand balls they work better then tennis balls💯✌️
Use pool noodles or copper pipe insulation
5:24 mane u don’t know nothing bout that song 😂😂😂. Shit be beating. U on the same music I be on 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Facts 😂
I used foam for mine. Before you foam, WD 40 on a rag and wipe the area you don't want the foam to stick to.
I'm hearing all that vibration in the cab. Have you thought of spray foaming it and using some dynomat my brother.
Yes I’ve already spray foamed all the voids in the back wall. Some type of sound deadening is next then wood
Now let’s hope they don’t fall out in traffic 😂
🤣🤣 right but they are wedged in good tho
Dog thats going to happen know matter what you do that's pressure man 😅😂😅
True. But I’m trying to minimize it as much as possible tho bro. Because when I go bigger with the subs and amps. That back glass ain’t gonna be happy at all 🤣🤣
If you flexing that hard without the balls what is stopping the balls from falling out under the same flex over time?
Why not just get some good Air wedges and pump those up tight.
If you really serious you can just get some wooden spacers and hit those into place along with some fabric around them secure them in place.
Long as they are long and strong you can put those in and they shouldn't move if you make it tight enough.
Sold wood will work much better than soft items that flex like deadener as that will still flex in the end.
That’s true bro
If you wonted more flex, you should have made it a simple ported box and / or a 6th order box, but the other thing you can do is get an Epic Center from audio control
Dog did you hear what you just said when you go bigger 😅 we'll I feel sorry for the people in bama😅😂😅😂Lol
🤣🤣
That's my biggest problem, the back cab rattling. My subs are in the cab facing the rear with triple layered sound deadener.
Have you thought about those inflatable wedge bags? They can handle 350lbs each and you can just pump them up until they are tight into place
You gone have to put some sound deadner under and between the box and the truck bed
True
What would be the purpose of doing that?
You might have to lose them back seats and put bracing on that wall. I put 3 layers of 3/4 inch birch and it still flexed until I ran bracings from the wall to the floor
A bro send me some pics so I can get a idea of how you did it
I heard the tennis balls help with truck bed flex
If you have the resources, weld some 1 inch flat stock bars across the back wall before you deaden it. Like maybe 2 pieces beside the port on each side and then one across the top
I wouldn't recommend one inch flat. Maybe one inch square tubing. I'm not sure if he's a welder or not.
I have a Tacoma with 15s and use Pool Noodles - semi hard between the bed and they work well !
Nice💪🏾💪🏾
Put some sundown 160 on that back wall
What head unit your using kinfolks?
Sony x something 7000😂 I forgot I’ll let you know when I’m back in the truck
Thebtennis balls made a huge difference
Hi,
Tennis balls are 2 big to fit in their. Try using small bouncing balls or squash balls. Good luck
I use foam pipe insulation than later got rubber pipe Insulation on my blowthough it helped a lot plus you can angle it so if it slopes the rains imor at car wash it pushes the water out the side start high in the middle and slope the pipe insulation down . On each side . Plus the pipe insulation in already grey and black. But first vibraflex that entire rear wall of tha cab or use the d4s mat with the rubber and foam the thickest they got it helps lots . I’ll lucky my bed is composite only sheet metal is inside the cab the bed is composite. I’m running 2 dreamsicle 15s got a 3rd on the way on a Powerus 10k . Wish I could send some pick since we got blow through build.
Nice go advice bro 💪🏾
First. Sup with bro bro.
What’s up bro 💪🏾
Are going to add 3 layers of sound deadening on the inside rear cab wall?
Yeah or at least two
Hyyyyy 😂 glad you did this
🤣🤣 I tried
@BassAddict91 ay it's all about trial and error you'll get her built strong
Salute bro🎉🎉
Thanks bro
You welcome bro💪🏿💯
How you like that dj rusticals app homie?
It’s good bro could be better in some aspects but for the most part I like it
Pl max, 3/4 mdf, and some screws to spots where the screws don’t go thru the cab
Plywood would be better, but you'd have to do multiple layers to build up all the low spots until you can do one flat sheet across.
Build a center console for that dsp brother bass mad. Greetings frome the Caribbean #bequia
I am bro it’s a lot I still have to do
Can you remove the achordian boot and stuff tennis balls around the opening?
Yeah I can but shit I’ll have to go back through and re seal it.
@@BassAddict91 lol. I feel ya bruh.
I be hearing bout these Taramps going up in smoke. I'll stay with half bridge. Thinking about doing 2 strapped Skv.2 3500
Yeah taramps are very sensitive to input voltage. But ima try to stay with Korean or Chinese boards
Taramps take up to 17 volts. They like the high output. If you run them on low voltage you will smoke em. My 15k running at 15.8 volts no problem.
@@SikRadoMike I never had a problem with one till this one. But like I said that one was on its way out anyway. It had been traded through a couple guys before I got it
This only happens when people try to put a 10k amp on stock electrical then wonder what happened. I know many people that beat hard with Taramps equipment including myself, and never once have I had an issue. I've blown up more Sundown gear than I have Taramps... so anything can happen. Brand is the least problem in reality, and knowing how to set your equipment up properly is the biggest problem for most people. Of course anything can happen and nothing is bullet-proof.
Full bridge amps are not bad. But Taramps are only 12.5v not 14v. And that may be the burning up problem.
Use Rit dye for the tennis balls
I’ll know for next time thanks bro
@BassAddict91 Thank you for the information and content you provide for us.. God bless you and your Fam.
No problem bro 🤝🏾🙏🏾
Hey good afternoon my name is David I have an idea but the tennis balls may not work if you take a tire and cut it up into big strips but you may have to slide the bed of the truck so you could be able to mount the tire strips to the wall
🤔🤔 might be a good idea
yo is that BassAddict song a real track? where can i get it?!!!
It’s not yet bro. Ima go back to my old high school days and do two versus one it 🤣
@@BassAddict91 u oughta....I already got a remix in my head lol
💪💪💯💯
Why not extend the port length if the makes sense, then seal the port around around it?
I am it doesn’t have the port in it yet bro
I have a 2016 Silverado with a blow through. 2 zv6 15s. I glued 3/4 birch on the inside of cab behind rear seat and inside the bed in front of box before I slide the box in. I have no flex other than the roof and doors
A email me bro I need more information & possible pics. quavogold91@gmail.com
Plywood will work. It's such an irregular surface, though. You'll probably need to glue in smaller pieces in all the low spots to build up the height and then install one large sheet over the whole rear wall.
It would be thick and might cover important things.
I'd try vibraflex first. It molds to shape and is thinner, like 1/4".
Hey waz good take some footballs and let the air out and put them in between bed and air them up it will hold better
@@anthonybradford8448 true didn’t think of that
😮😮😮😮💯
Ingenuity at its finest
@@SS-sw8de facts
spray white first then add black
how can i stop roof flex in my 2001 mazda tribute? i dont want to put a fixed strut. before i knew what the sound was i thought i blew my 12s.
Layers of sound deadening
If the flex isn't too extreme, you might try installing some 120mil constrained layer damper. You gotta get good stuff, though so it won't fall down in the summer or smell bad.
You can get 10 sq feet of Resonix with roller for $135 shipped.
If it was for the floor I'd recommend some cheaper stuff, but for a roof I'd only get the best.
If the roof flex is extreme you'd probably need to glue layers of plywood to it. That gets tricky and your headliner might not fit over it.
Did you get the port fixed?
Not yet I’m going next week to get the port put in and work on the beauty panel for the back wall
@@BassAddict91 my man...
I don't think you should install constrained layer damping like your typical dynamat. That type of material isn't designed to handle lots of flex.
Look for a heavy duty type of deadner called Vibraflex. EXO recently did a video installing it. Jerry Aint Loud has done videos. Derrick at Sundown has done install videos.
It has to be heated with a propane torch to install it. It bonds well, is thick and is quite rigid. Thats what the serious spl competitors use to stop flex. It's a little pricey and tricky to install, but everybody swears by how good it is.
I seen that when exo made the video. I instantly went and looked at it. It’ll be perfect for my situation
What’s the rms of those subs ?
1,000
Great video don’t have any real advice except maybe that Viber flex
Try again without cutting the balls.
I thought about that too bro
It doesn't hurt to try but if I was you I would buy a football. Get all the air out connected to a pump. Push it up there like a day with the Tennis balls and then reinflated. Do that on both sides and in the center higherbut doesn't hurt. Unless you could find the nerf football.
deadner not structure go nered wood inside out or metal braces rember deadner over paper thin sheet metal want support think reenforce the wall yes add deadner over the supporting wall yes😊
True