Your video is clear & concise. I question the use of silicone adhesive over the entire gasket, most say it's just needed at cam ends. Maybe experience has taught you otherwise, just did mine, without the entire bead, time will tell how effective it was. Hardest part for me was removing the valve cover, a few light taps with a rubber mallet did the trick. The spark plug gaskets were the most brittle in my case, extracting any broken pieces is a must, otherwise oil passages may get clogged. Unfortunately, I managed to crack my pcv hose fitting, it was brittle, so a new line is in order. Thanks for taking the time to show us this inevitable repair to our beloved Zeds!👍
Thank you, I used the silicone along the lower edge and half moon sections, I was advised by a mechanic that it would prevent any further issues with the gasket leaking. Replacing that hose that connects to the top of the cover can be troublesome, best to connect it on the lower end, take off the oil filter cap and squeeze the hose between the gap.
BMW advise only to use gasket sealant around the half moon shapes at the front and back of the cover and between the Vanos at the front. Not required on the full circumference of the gasket, its is multiple ribbed and under compression has at least three channels compressed to make the seal. They also advise to renew the round rubber seals under the cover retaining bolts, these go hard and do not compress enough to provide a good seal.
You are correct, I did one yesterday on a M54 engine. I just put a little bit of RTV sealant around the half moon bits and across the front and back of the gasket
@@db192 I was getting oil leakage and getting error codes fuel bank trim, I had a look and I think the seals have gone as oil around the nuts. I tightened the nuts up and oil stopped and error codes went. But after watching your video I’m going to just replace all the seal and the nut seals Thanks again!
There always was a small amount on this car but it was tested for issues with head gasket and everything was ok. Could be some condensation build up from cold mornings where the car wasn’t driven everyday. If you looked after a good run there wasn’t ever any residue on the cap as it evaporated with the heat.
If they are stiff then you can use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lever up and release each of the clips. I was able to lift the clips with my fingertips if you’re careful.
Your video is clear & concise. I question the use of silicone adhesive over the entire gasket, most say it's just needed at cam ends. Maybe experience has taught you otherwise, just did mine, without the entire bead, time will tell how effective it was. Hardest part for me was removing the valve cover, a few light taps with a rubber mallet did the trick. The spark plug gaskets were the most brittle in my case, extracting any broken pieces is a must, otherwise oil passages may get clogged. Unfortunately, I managed to crack my pcv hose fitting, it was brittle, so a new line is in order. Thanks for taking the time to show us this inevitable repair to our beloved Zeds!👍
Thank you, I used the silicone along the lower edge and half moon sections, I was advised by a mechanic that it would prevent any further issues with the gasket leaking. Replacing that hose that connects to the top of the cover can be troublesome, best to connect it on the lower end, take off the oil filter cap and squeeze the hose between the gap.
BMW advise only to use gasket sealant around the half moon shapes at the front and back of the cover and between the Vanos at the front. Not required on the full circumference of the gasket, its is multiple ribbed and under compression has at least three channels compressed to make the seal. They also advise to renew the round rubber seals under the cover retaining bolts, these go hard and do not compress enough to provide a good seal.
You are correct, I did one yesterday on a M54 engine. I just put a little bit of RTV sealant around the half moon bits and across the front and back of the gasket
Very clear video - thank you!
You are very welcome
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!!! Made the job a breeze.
You’re very welcome!
Good to see the hands were social distancing.
Awsome video. so clear and help full thank you
You are very welcome!
@@db192 I was getting oil leakage and getting error codes fuel bank trim, I had a look and I think the seals have gone as oil around the nuts. I tightened the nuts up and oil stopped and error codes went. But after watching your video I’m going to just replace all the seal and the nut seals
Thanks again!
Is that emulsion around the oil cap normal ammount or did you have any problems with this engine along the way?
There always was a small amount on this car but it was tested for issues with head gasket and everything was ok. Could be some condensation build up from cold mornings where the car wasn’t driven everyday. If you looked after a good run there wasn’t ever any residue on the cap as it evaporated with the heat.
Well done very clear..how many miles has your Z Done...?Cheers Will. 😀👍
Thanks Will, it’s got 95000 miles on the clock. But rough on the paintwork but drives well and puts a smile on my face every time I turn the key!
So much easier than a 335i
Good video. Thank you.
Thanks!
How do you remove the hard plastic wire loom case that is clipped to the valve cover (without braking the little clips that are part of valve cover?)
If they are stiff then you can use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lever up and release each of the clips. I was able to lift the clips with my fingertips if you’re careful.
@@db192 Well darn, I tried to be gentle but broke two of them!
Hi. Sound cuts out at 3:40
Wots the torque sequence
Thanks for the comment. If you search - BMW M54 valve cover torque sequence then you will get some photos to follow.