Alldata's most recent update suggests replacing the entire vehicle with a Toyota Camry. After the upgrade, reliability and customer satisfaction increase exponentially.
Hey Ivan, a few people found a wiring harness hanging down with a few broken wires. It lives in the front just below the bumper drivers side. Eric found a bunch of wires broken on a neon and another guy found the same thing on a dodge van.
Seeing the variance between Input and Output RPM, the only data PID I want to see is Line Pressure. If the trans has a vacuum controlled Throttle Valve, I'd pop that vacuum line off and see if it still slipped in 2nd. If it does, I'd pull a valve body diagram and look for the pressure path relations between 2-1 and R-1. My guess at this point is that there's a pressure issue preventing 2nd Gear from engaging, and preventing it from shifting from 2-1. Shifting into Reverse revives "normal" line pressures and allows it to shift back into first. The fact that when you manually shift into 1st, it still displays 2nd on the scantool tells me it's using some sort of line pressure sensor or solenoid feedback to determine what gear it's ACTUALLY in, rather than what you have selected on the shifter. Good foresight on Chrysler's part there. Alternatively, I want to have a peek at the engine mounts. Is shifting into reverse or turning the vehicle off un-pinching a wiring harness that controls the 2nd Gear engagement solenoid? As always, this is all just speculation based off what I'm seeing here. Darnit Ivan, just ship me all these cars so I can do my own diagnostics! LOL A million ways to skin a cat...
No the transmission is staying in second because of the limp mode. Limp mode defaults to second gear so that the car is normally still drivable for most faults. In this case 2nd gear is not engaging properly (for some reason) and so the limp mode staying in 2nd gear doesn't work. The fluid being red and not burned seems to indicate an electronic issue (solenoid or wiring). A more intelligent limp mode would pick first or second based on the particular fault.
1st off, Chrysler's limp in strategy when trans related will reset every key cycle. Not exactly sure why they do that, but they have been since the early 90s. Here's the thing. Once in limp in, 2nd gear, they just stay there. It will have whatever power 2nd can give you off the line, and rev to about 40 mph. It's NOT supposed to slip! The idea is to get you out of an emergency with some form of drivability. I noticed 1 thing. Ign Sw volts read system voltage running, but then the 2nd PID for ignition volts read 12.0.. I'd check the wiring harness near the frt for visible damage. Then I'd check via bi-directional controls the sol. pack to see it they switch and actually HOLD. The problem with that scan data is you see the normal command, on/off. BUT that doesn't mean the sol is actually doing it! Waiting for Part Deux.
My $0,05 bet. 2/4 clutch inoperative. When gear switch from 1st to 2nd, 2nd does not engage -> fault -> limp mode = 2nd -forced on. As 2nd does not work-> dead end. Power off -> back to 1st. Check wiring, solenoid and controller output for 2/4 clutch. If all ok -> transmission clutch mechanical fault. Unlikely as fluid was clear.
I always point to the magic box whenever there's a failure like this on modern cars. On a '72 El Camino, it would be hands down an internal tranny issue. Not so today! Could be internal, could be wiring, could be the magic box! Can't wait to see what it is. You got a full lot there! Sweeeeet!👍👍
I'm no professional by any means, but my guess is that its either the TCM or some other electrical issue... Because if it was the mechanical side of the trans, i think it would shift roughly, jerk on gear changes, get stuck on random gears not just a particular one, etc... Also it wouldn't reset gears on switch off and on ign... Unless this is the secondary symptom and the customer ignored symptoms like the ones i described and brought it to you after it was completely toast... or did not tell you about them... Curious to see the solution to this riddle... Nice videos...
Love reading thru the comments. One guy says could be an overfill of fluid and another guys says low battery can cause issues. Like both of those, whether or not that turns up anything or not. Nice video and you will figure it out Ivan.
I had one of those smart-looking nasty Chrysler vehicles back in the day. The wife got it in the divorce/ blew a head gasket on a 4-lane highway/drove it 25 miles home on the road shoulder/ got it fixed/ always worked like crapola after that. So, it was a pretty good vehicle. in my jaded opinion! lol, I put 455,000 on my 93 Plymouth Voyager which I got in the divorce. :) At least Chrysler tried to make a good 4 banger. The frame was used for a few models after the NEON died.
26 year veteran Rebuilder says the sun gears stripped. The fluid will be clean. Qualifier is on 1-2 shift if it absolutely free Wheels. Mention my name when you get it fixed and I'll help you again.
Don't know why 2nd "freewheels", but since it DOES, the TCM is probably programmed to disallow re-entry into 1st with the input/output rpm mismatch, otherwise would "slam" into 1st...Just my 2c...
Ok, my wild guess is the TCM or the shift solenoid pack, however, did anyone else notice the trans fluid was extra pink? Like water intrusion? Or was it just the lighting during the quick shot, or has it been too long since I've seen ATF-4?
I don't know the shift solenoid pattern. I'd check to make sure all the voltages to the transmission and grounds are good. (Rust, corrosion, etc) Also, that "Ignition (V) on your diagnostic tester says 12.0 volts, yet the battery shows 14.5 when its running. Once I look a the shift solenoid pattern, I'd want to scope the solenoid wiring to see who's doing what by following the shift procedure. Possible broken wiring or other problems. Are you (scope) sure the input and output shaft sensors are reading correctly? Part 2 will tell.
Trans fluid level check should be done with the engine running and in park or neutral for the majority of auto vehicles, either with the trans at operating temp or a specified temperature, this doesn't seem like a low fluid level fault though.
Right on Pine Hollow Diag! It's great to see your video's! Working out in the cold, Burrrr! Fantastic you help others the "right way" Good job buddy. Keep up the good work! PEACE OUT, another mechanic doing it for our local people to keep them safe! Alright, kiddo's it's time for school!
Wiring to or defective speed sensors check first. Speed sensors are AC generators, easy enough to test. Then dig into the servos. Make sure the servo electrical signal is there and good on command.
Hmmmmm, it could be a lot of things Ivan, you still need to do a VISUAL maybe check the voltage, or like you said TCM issues... But I will share with you a case study on a NEON that I had one time ago, similar limp mode I forgot the code number, but similar to what you're experiencing, so I noticed by the camshaft was very wet with oil I checked the dipstick had 2 quarts of oil over the the full mark, corrected the oil level and then pulled off the camshaft sensor was saturated with oil all over, cleaned it up with brake clean button it back up problem solve... shipped down the road. Oh yeah I replaced a O2 - - too...
That fluid looked awfully new in that baby, did they recently service the trans and maybe starve the trans pump that's already on it's way out? Maybe the trans pump pressure isn't adequate enough under acceleration from a stop to push itself into that next shift range? If it's electrical issue concerning a shift solenoid or input signal etc you'd sure think you'd be setting a DTC or two? Just throwing out ideas, but it's tough with trans issues like this. I thought I could hear some noise from it when you were idle testing shifting it through the PRNDL ranges. Maybe shutting it down allows the TCM to reset and try again before shutting it down again shortly after? I'd check trans pressures, it seems like you might have a pressure issue preventing it from completing the 1-2 shift, then the TCM sees it with the output and input rpm values and throws her in limp mode and flags that DTC accordingly? I'm late to the game, sorry I didn't see you posted part 2 with an update...lol, well. Great video as always and thanks for sharing this!
I'm going to say the 2nd gear clutch pack is gone out. Turbine speed sensors [input sensor] that are defective will produce harsh engagement in any gear because pcm doesn't recognize trans speed when transitioning into gear for ideal conditions, that isn't occurring. Your input is reading engine rpm while in neutral, output gradually ascends as engine speed increase but disengage when entering 2nd. I would have looked at the solenoid pids after getting the command sequence of activation for each gear. If theres a command to "on/off" with [cel cleared] to command solenoid there's operation of tcm [likely]. Or attempt to command solenoid to listen for noise operation. Either it's a weak/bad solenoid or bad 2nd clutch. I don't wanna type too much because just these two possibilities will yield great diagnosing and long paragraphs. I'll just have to wait
First check the fluid level with engine warmed up and running.....Second it's probably the shift solenoid pack located on the front side of the transmission
Make sure to check service info on checking trans fluid. Some chryslers need to be in N and not P to check fluid. But I guess you already know to check trans fluid level check procedure. I do not know of any automatic transmissions that the fluid is checked with the engine off. Your checking a hydraulic system level and this most always done running.
I get the shivers just hearing the word Neon. I and my two siblings each had a neon... Chrysler lost three customers for ever just because of those cars.
When checking ATF level also observe if the fluid is bright cherry red and the smell. If the fluid is NOT cherry red or the fluid smells burnt, you have an internal mechanical problem.
even though it may not be setting the cam sensor code the tcm matches the engine rpm to the trans input rpm to know if the converter locks up if it has that trans. so if the cam signal is dropping out intermittently....... but the real issue is it's a cheap assed chrysler product. i think that model was also sold under the little tykes brand.
as said previously i believe this is a control fault... that fluid looked super clean unless its just been changed with the wrong fluid...its not all burnt n brown....awaiting part 2...
The OD clutch reading is 90 plus, I believe nearing 100 is end of life. This P1790 is a gear ratio code. I believe you have a wiring problem to or from the output speed sensor. Possibly wiring to the solenoids or bad ground.
Interesting case study Ivan- Overfill can cause same damage as under..I doubt it’s the pressure or shift solenoid, it wouldn’t move if that was the case of a bad solenoid, I think it’s a castrohphic failure. Had this problem on a Nissan cvt I know it’s a different animal but I had same issues. Also after I cleared DTC nothing came back up for a while. Btw that fluid is way high should be at high mark hot and running. You don’t check fluid while it’s not running you won’t get an accurate reading. The damage is prob one of the plates are warn.
When I was in the car business through the 90s and most of the 2000s I would appraise cars for the dealership that I worked at. What I found is you need to take about $1,000 off Black Book value on any neon or PT Cruiser or any Chrysler in general because it's about to lose a head gasket or something else fairly severe. Chrysler has been making chunky cars for a long time and somehow they're still in business. I'm not sure why
Internal transmission failure with either a solenoid or control board. The problem is that if the car has been driven like than until now that lost all power, probably the clutches are worn out and now need a rebuild. Wear that the trans oil was very clean and pink. That tells me someone did a flush or oil change and now the issues are worst. Did you check for burn smell?
I would look at the apply chart for the 41TE I forgot what applies mechanically/electronically. Slippage is present in 2nd gear, limp in is second gear seems like an internal issue. Even without a gear error fault. Yes check all the electrical first, I've done a few 41TE overhauls the TCM grounds the solenoid for each shift according to input info from speed sensors, TPS, engine rpm. I'm betting mechanical failure let me open her up Ivan! Just kidding run electrical tests & pressure tests for 2nd gear there's a huge leak!
Chrysler computer controlled shifting automatic transaxles use controller logic to engage / disengage first, third and fourth / overdrive gear. Second gear is hydraulically actuated. So for that reason this transmission issue is NOT caused by transmission controller logic or any electrical wiring issue. I would suggest that the 2-4 and / or UD fluid circuits in the solenoid pack mounted on the side of the transmission are plugged with debris and restricting hydraulic pressure in their respective circuits. Any debris could be causing the solenoid valves to stick and not open and close properly. When second gear is desired all transmission circuit control solenoids are de-energized. In their relaxed state the 2-4 and UD solenoid valves allow fluid to pass through so that second gear limp mode is available if invoked by the transmission controller. I would suspect that this transmission has never had a transmission fluid flush or exchange along with a transmission filter change.
My last Chrysler ( and will be forever my last ) (2002 T/C Mini Van) The trans simply went into full grenade mode. No warning symptoms.. Went from a steady 65MPH on a level road to full clangs, clunks and broken metal sounds. Of course it went at 71,000 miles which for 2002 was 1000 miles over for the warranty. I take care of my vehicles and for no reason this should have happened. You should have seen the carnage once the trans was opened up. Needless to say, that van once repaired, was out the door ASAP.. Pure Junk.
Hi Ivan total guesses, i would test the cam sensor with a scope manually and could it be a fault with the module that controls the transmission, their my thoughts but maybe wrong...Fred in Uk.
Just a thought but did you check for proper level for trans fluid meaning did you use the hot or cold mark on dip stick but also check it while running while putting it in ever gear all the way down and back up waiting a few seconds to soak each of the clutch packs? then check the fluid my guess is it is overfilled causing bubbles or excess air in the fluid not 100 percent sure this is your cause something basic to start with then if that is ok I would go after the shift solenoids verifying each is working properly there most likely is to of them on top of trans housing or in it.
Dear I have a problem with my car Ford Explorer 2007 light check engine and gave me in the bank 1 Code 135 and 141 and checked sensors intact and the heat circuit in the sensitive sound What do you expect the imbalance and how to deal with the problem and repair.
I am not sure if you tried this but manually putting the car in 1st seems to work fine, how about doing the same in 2nd gear manually? or is that not an option in this case?
My intrepid did this when the solenoid went bad. I could drive for 15 minutes fine than it quit shifting. I pulled over restarted it and it was ok for another 10 minutes.
Verify that 1st and 3rd work to very internal problem, roll vehicle down a hill to pick up enough speed to be in 3rd, if it engages and drives in 3rd but not work in 4th it’s internal to transmission. (I repaired one of these units once)
this transmission is 42te limp mode is default to 2nd gear the reason this wont go in drive when in limp mode is 2nd gear is out so you get neutral turn the key off back on its then out of limp mode till it tries to shift to 2nd then back in limp .... its time for a transmission rebuild are replace
Drive in second with a trans code I believe is their default limp procedure. I'm going with a bad solenoid pack. Good thing it and the speed sensors are super easy to change all from up top by just pulling the airbox :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yeah they don't always throw electrical codes. They can fail mechanically and not throw codes. You asked for guesses :P Had one last week, no codes at all. Neon would hang in 2nd too long and then downshift and upshift over and over when coasting in 3rd. Solenoid pack was on the way out.
Shutting engine off kills transmission fluid pressure, resets. Upon restart- TCM might use a correlation of pressure (engine input speed) to transmission output, but the 1-2 shift isn't seeing expected pressure. Broken or cracked filter body, no fluid pressure. (enough to change gear and HOLD it in 2nd) Did the fluid look cavitated?
Oldsmobile Silhouette and the Dodge Neon are among the worst performance in crash test. Not to mention one diagnostic service will cost more than what the vehicles are worth.
I had the samething but mind was chevy Lumina van with 3 .8 liter 94 i love that thing how much would u sell it if u fix it i would get my buddy and his flatbed to get it
Hey Danny! My plan is to get it running right, make some vids on it, and then sell to the highest bidder ;) Starting price would be parts and labor to get it running, plus a little bit. Underside and body are in fantastic shape on this one!
![Tee Grizzley - Detroit (Feat. 42 Dugg) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aeKfTtt0x14/mqdefault.jpg)
Alldata's most recent update suggests replacing the entire vehicle with a Toyota Camry. After the upgrade, reliability and customer satisfaction increase exponentially.
LOLOLOLOLOL! !
Talk about an obvious solution!
This repair is Scotty Kilmer approved!
RP 502 something Scotty will do! Its Scotty trolling lol
RP 502 after all...scotty knows because his Corolla for years with no problems😂
Its the shift solenoid pack, common problem on those. I hope im right says every parts changer ever.
Hey Ivan, a few people found a wiring harness hanging down with a few broken wires. It lives in the front just below the bumper drivers side. Eric found a bunch of wires broken on a neon and another guy found the same thing on a dodge van.
Seeing the variance between Input and Output RPM, the only data PID I want to see is Line Pressure. If the trans has a vacuum controlled Throttle Valve, I'd pop that vacuum line off and see if it still slipped in 2nd. If it does, I'd pull a valve body diagram and look for the pressure path relations between 2-1 and R-1.
My guess at this point is that there's a pressure issue preventing 2nd Gear from engaging, and preventing it from shifting from 2-1. Shifting into Reverse revives "normal" line pressures and allows it to shift back into first. The fact that when you manually shift into 1st, it still displays 2nd on the scantool tells me it's using some sort of line pressure sensor or solenoid feedback to determine what gear it's ACTUALLY in, rather than what you have selected on the shifter. Good foresight on Chrysler's part there.
Alternatively, I want to have a peek at the engine mounts. Is shifting into reverse or turning the vehicle off un-pinching a wiring harness that controls the 2nd Gear engagement solenoid?
As always, this is all just speculation based off what I'm seeing here. Darnit Ivan, just ship me all these cars so I can do my own diagnostics! LOL A million ways to skin a cat...
No the transmission is staying in second because of the limp mode. Limp mode defaults to second gear so that the car is normally still drivable for most faults. In this case 2nd gear is not engaging properly (for some reason) and so the limp mode staying in 2nd gear doesn't work.
The fluid being red and not burned seems to indicate an electronic issue (solenoid or wiring).
A more intelligent limp mode would pick first or second based on the particular fault.
The olds Silhouette... we had one as a family car. Lots of fun with a W-body 3.8 Supercharged under the hood :)
Yes, he should build that one. A blast from the past. Could be a fun project.
Man just what I needed, a video by Ivan!
Interesting indeed. I like these case studies and thanks for bringing us along. Part two is up now so see you there.
1st off, Chrysler's limp in strategy when trans related will reset every key cycle. Not exactly sure why they do that, but they have been since the early 90s. Here's the thing. Once in limp in, 2nd gear, they just stay there. It will have whatever power 2nd can give you off the line, and rev to about 40 mph. It's NOT supposed to slip! The idea is to get you out of an emergency with some form of drivability. I noticed 1 thing. Ign Sw volts read system voltage running, but then the 2nd PID for ignition volts read 12.0.. I'd check the wiring harness near the frt for visible damage. Then I'd check via bi-directional controls the sol. pack to see it they switch and actually HOLD. The problem with that scan data is you see the normal command, on/off. BUT that doesn't mean the sol is actually doing it! Waiting for Part Deux.
My $0,05 bet. 2/4 clutch inoperative. When gear switch from 1st to 2nd, 2nd does not engage -> fault -> limp mode = 2nd -forced on. As 2nd does not work-> dead end. Power off -> back to 1st. Check wiring, solenoid and controller output for 2/4 clutch. If all ok -> transmission clutch mechanical fault. Unlikely as fluid was clear.
However the 2/4 clutch pressure switch was closing.
@@remingtonbaker3376 commanded on or in reality closing?
@@jannepo clutch pressure switches do not get commanded on.
@@remingtonbaker3376 those are not solenoids to open and close to control hydraulic pressure to the clutch?
@@jannepo no they are sensors they close when enough pressure is applied.
I always point to the magic box whenever there's a failure like this on modern cars. On a '72 El Camino, it would be hands down an internal tranny issue. Not so today! Could be internal, could be wiring, could be the magic box! Can't wait to see what it is.
You got a full lot there! Sweeeeet!👍👍
I think I found the problem. Her radiator cap is connected to a POS.
I CAN'T BREATHE, LMAO.
Well, THERE'S your problem, lady!
I’ve seen a bad battery cause limp mode on a Chrysler. Replaced battery and it was good.
I'm no professional by any means, but my guess is that its either the TCM or some other electrical issue... Because if it was the mechanical side of the trans, i think it would shift roughly, jerk on gear changes, get stuck on random gears not just a particular one, etc... Also it wouldn't reset gears on switch off and on ign... Unless this is the secondary symptom and the customer ignored symptoms like the ones i described and brought it to you after it was completely toast... or did not tell you about them... Curious to see the solution to this riddle... Nice videos...
Love reading thru the comments. One guy says could be an overfill of fluid and another guys says low battery can cause issues. Like both of those, whether or not that turns up anything or not.
Nice video and you will figure it out Ivan.
I got nothin'. However, I love trans related diagnostics. For most, it's a black box of another sort. Thanks Ivan!
I'm thinking the wiring to the tcm. Underneath the radiator core support. There's also a power relay that powers up the tcm. Very interesting.
Well it doesn't have a separate TCM....the ECM controls all. And no circuit codes! I was hoping for circuit codes lol
I had one of those smart-looking nasty Chrysler vehicles back in the day.
The wife got it in the divorce/ blew a head gasket on a 4-lane highway/drove it 25 miles home on the road shoulder/ got it fixed/ always worked like crapola after that.
So, it was a pretty good vehicle. in my jaded opinion! lol, I put 455,000 on my 93 Plymouth Voyager which I got in the divorce. :)
At least Chrysler tried to make a good 4 banger. The frame was used for a few models after the NEON died.
26 year veteran Rebuilder says the sun gears stripped. The fluid will be clean. Qualifier is on 1-2 shift if it absolutely free Wheels. Mention my name when you get it fixed and I'll help you again.
Yup 100% free wheels...like you are in Neutral! Thanks for the comment, Roy! :)
That was my next idea. I had thought the 2nd gear clutch packs were worn to death.
Shift solenoid! Great video Ivan!
Don't know why 2nd "freewheels", but since it DOES, the TCM is probably programmed to disallow re-entry into 1st with the input/output rpm mismatch, otherwise would "slam" into 1st...Just my 2c...
“1st gear, it’s alright, 2nd gear, it’s not right, 3rd gear, hold on tight, faster, it just not might” from the song “My little Honda” 🤗
I read a post in a forum about a 05 neon with the same complaint, turned out to be a bad wire in the harness to the output speed sensor.
Ok, my wild guess is the TCM or the shift solenoid pack, however, did anyone else notice the trans fluid was extra pink? Like water intrusion? Or was it just the lighting during the quick shot, or has it been too long since I've seen ATF-4?
I don't know the shift solenoid pattern. I'd check to make sure all the voltages to the transmission and grounds are good. (Rust, corrosion, etc) Also, that "Ignition (V) on your diagnostic tester says 12.0 volts, yet the battery shows 14.5 when its running. Once I look a the shift solenoid pattern, I'd want to scope the solenoid wiring to see who's doing what by following the shift procedure. Possible broken wiring or other problems. Are you (scope) sure the input and output shaft sensors are reading correctly? Part 2 will tell.
Trans fluid level check should be done with the engine running and in park or neutral for the majority of auto vehicles, either with the trans at operating temp or a specified temperature, this doesn't seem like a low fluid level fault though.
Right on Pine Hollow Diag! It's great to see your video's! Working out in the cold, Burrrr! Fantastic you help others the "right way" Good job buddy. Keep up the good work! PEACE OUT, another mechanic doing it for our local people to keep them safe! Alright, kiddo's it's time for school!
Wiring to or defective speed sensors check first. Speed sensors are AC generators, easy enough to test. Then dig into the servos. Make sure the servo electrical signal is there and good on command.
Unfortunately I have lots of Volvo fuel pump experience! Crazy system they use
Hmmmmm, it could be a lot of things Ivan, you still need to do a VISUAL maybe check the voltage, or like you said TCM issues...
But I will share with you a case study on a NEON that I had one time ago, similar limp mode I forgot the code number, but similar to what you're experiencing, so I noticed by the camshaft was very wet with oil I checked the dipstick had 2 quarts of oil over the the full mark, corrected the oil level and then pulled off the camshaft sensor was saturated with oil all over, cleaned it up with brake clean button it back up problem solve... shipped down the road. Oh yeah I replaced a O2 - - too...
That fluid looked awfully new in that baby, did they recently service the trans and maybe starve the trans pump that's already on it's way out? Maybe the trans pump pressure isn't adequate enough under acceleration from a stop to push itself into that next shift range? If it's electrical issue concerning a shift solenoid or input signal etc you'd sure think you'd be setting a DTC or two?
Just throwing out ideas, but it's tough with trans issues like this.
I thought I could hear some noise from it when you were idle testing shifting it through the PRNDL ranges.
Maybe shutting it down allows the TCM to reset and try again before shutting it down again shortly after?
I'd check trans pressures, it seems like you might have a pressure issue preventing it from completing the 1-2 shift, then the TCM sees it with the output and input rpm values and throws her in limp mode and flags that DTC accordingly?
I'm late to the game, sorry I didn't see you posted part 2 with an update...lol, well. Great video as always and thanks for sharing this!
I'm going to say the 2nd gear clutch pack is gone out. Turbine speed sensors [input sensor] that are defective will produce harsh engagement in any gear because pcm doesn't recognize trans speed when transitioning into gear for ideal conditions, that isn't occurring.
Your input is reading engine rpm while in neutral, output gradually ascends as engine speed increase but disengage when entering 2nd.
I would have looked at the solenoid pids after getting the command sequence of activation for each gear. If theres a command to "on/off" with [cel cleared] to command solenoid there's operation of tcm [likely]. Or attempt to command solenoid to listen for noise operation. Either it's a weak/bad solenoid or bad 2nd clutch.
I don't wanna type too much because just these two possibilities will yield great diagnosing and long paragraphs. I'll just have to wait
Ivan, check the wiring bundle under the radiator support for damage.
First check the fluid level with engine warmed up and running.....Second it's probably the shift solenoid pack located on the front side of the transmission
Trans shift Solenoid? Wire to or just a bad one.Wild guess.
Make sure to check service info on checking trans fluid. Some chryslers need to be in N and not P to check fluid. But I guess you already know to check trans fluid level check procedure. I do not know of any automatic transmissions that the fluid is checked with the engine off. Your checking a hydraulic system level and this most always done running.
On Hondas you check it with the car off
I get the shivers just hearing the word Neon. I and my two siblings each had a neon... Chrysler lost three customers for ever just because of those cars.
wow...transmisson problems? xD
When checking ATF level also observe if the fluid is bright cherry red and the smell. If the fluid is NOT cherry red or the fluid smells burnt, you have an internal mechanical problem.
even though it may not be setting the cam sensor code the tcm matches the engine rpm to the trans input rpm to know if the converter locks up if it has that trans. so if the cam signal is dropping out intermittently....... but the real issue is it's a cheap assed chrysler product. i think that model was also sold under the little tykes brand.
Otis PL has the right idea for diagnosis. I have seen a lot of failed Neon transmissions.
as said previously i believe this is a control fault... that fluid looked super clean unless its just been changed with the wrong fluid...its not all burnt n brown....awaiting part 2...
The OD clutch reading is 90 plus, I believe nearing 100 is end of life. This P1790 is a gear ratio code. I believe you have a wiring problem to or from the output speed sensor. Possibly wiring to the solenoids or bad ground.
Could jack up the front end and see if there's any power being transferred to the wheels at all, when it's in 2nd gear.
I have no idea of what could be wrong but I have complete confidence in you BillN LINY
Interesting case study Ivan- Overfill can cause same damage as under..I doubt it’s the pressure or shift solenoid, it wouldn’t move if that was the case of a bad solenoid, I think it’s a castrohphic failure. Had this problem on a Nissan cvt I know it’s a different animal but I had same issues. Also after I cleared DTC nothing came back up for a while. Btw that fluid is way high should be at high mark hot and running. You don’t check fluid while it’s not running you won’t get an accurate reading. The damage is prob one of the plates are warn.
Thxs Ivan as always nice vid bring on Pt.2,and also Ivan I see a bunch videos coming up, park in front yard right...
Check the shift soleind pack this can put the transmission into limp mode and shifting problem
Dodge Neon, where do you find these orphan dinosaur cars from the malaise era.
Ahh, the old dustbuster vans, you could curl up and have a nap on the dash of those things. Lol
I don't think curling up would be a requirement to nap on that dash.
My guess is bad trans , as the problem is worse when warm. I kind of like these cliff hangers.
When I was in the car business through the 90s and most of the 2000s I would appraise cars for the dealership that I worked at. What I found is you need to take about $1,000 off Black Book value on any neon or PT Cruiser or any Chrysler in general because it's about to lose a head gasket or something else fairly severe. Chrysler has been making chunky cars for a long time and somehow they're still in business. I'm not sure why
If you take $1000 off, then YOU would have to pay the customer to take the car off your lot HAHAHA
I'd load up the parts cannon with a solenoid pack and a cam sensor. :D SHHHH don't tell anyone you dusted it off and started firing. ;)
they were rubbish, but good news the square dodge delivery van out now is made with leftover neon parts,
Internal transmission failure with either a solenoid or control board. The problem is that if the car has been driven like than until now that lost all power, probably the clutches are worn out and now need a rebuild. Wear that the trans oil was very clean and pink. That tells me someone did a flush or oil change and now the issues are worst. Did you check for burn smell?
I would look at the apply chart for the 41TE I forgot what applies mechanically/electronically. Slippage is present in 2nd gear, limp in is second gear seems like an internal issue. Even without a gear error fault. Yes check all the electrical first, I've done a few 41TE overhauls the TCM grounds the solenoid for each shift according to input info from speed sensors, TPS, engine rpm. I'm betting mechanical failure let me open her up Ivan! Just kidding run electrical tests & pressure tests for 2nd gear there's a huge leak!
What comes first OPEN or CLOSED on the trans? The Varus dos a lousy job of defining their terms. L-R never showed closed.?
Speed Sensors . I always had that issues . Replaced them both cheap repair.
My guess... Speed Sensor
@@nelsonnarciso1791 Your probably right. If I really new, I wouldn't be watching his channel
TCM FAILER or the case of the GREEN CUSTY think about it if it was the tran it woludnt " reset" then work then fail
What about dropping the pan and seeing if there's any broken pieces.
Chrysler computer controlled shifting automatic transaxles use controller logic to engage / disengage first, third and fourth / overdrive gear. Second gear is hydraulically actuated.
So for that reason this transmission issue is NOT caused by transmission controller logic or any electrical wiring issue.
I would suggest that the 2-4 and / or UD fluid circuits in the solenoid pack mounted on the side of the transmission are plugged with debris and restricting hydraulic pressure in their respective circuits. Any debris could be causing the solenoid valves to stick and not open and close properly.
When second gear is desired all transmission circuit control solenoids are de-energized. In their relaxed state the 2-4 and UD solenoid valves allow fluid to pass through so that second gear limp mode is available if invoked by the transmission controller. I would suspect that this transmission has never had a transmission fluid flush or exchange along with a transmission filter change.
Excellent thought! Yes not an electrical problem, I agree.
First thing check the oil lever in the trans. with engine running.
My last Chrysler ( and will be forever my last ) (2002 T/C Mini Van) The trans simply went into full grenade mode. No warning symptoms.. Went from a steady 65MPH on a level road to full clangs, clunks and broken metal sounds. Of course it went at 71,000 miles which for 2002 was 1000 miles over for the warranty. I take care of my vehicles and for no reason this should have happened. You should have seen the carnage once the trans was opened up. Needless to say, that van once repaired, was out the door ASAP.. Pure Junk.
haha Chryslers have a nasty habit of breaking RIGHT AFTER THE WARRANTY EXPIRES! How do they design them this way? lol
sounds like the solenoid shift pack one of the solenoids is stuck.
Woodrings delivery van. As a former State College resident, I vote save it as a project van.
YES!!
Good job
Hi Ivan total guesses, i would test the cam sensor with a scope manually and could it be a fault with the module that controls the transmission, their my thoughts but maybe wrong...Fred in Uk.
Ivan, check the transmission with pressure gauges. I know you will know how to do it because you're a very smart man.
I was thinking about it lol...
Don't you dare junk that Olds! If she's repairable, fix it...you certainly don't see those on the roads much anymore.
Hey! Its the Cadillac of minivans...
Actually it's the BUICK of minivans! Super cool van!
It's a minivan from the 90's of the future!
Dustbusters FTW!
Just a thought but did you check for proper level for trans fluid meaning did you use the hot or cold mark on dip stick but also check it while running while putting it in ever gear all the way down and back up waiting a few seconds to soak each of the clutch packs? then check the fluid my guess is it is overfilled causing bubbles or excess air in the fluid not 100 percent sure this is your cause something basic to start with then if that is ok I would go after the shift solenoids verifying each is working properly there most likely is to of them on top of trans housing or in it.
Change that cam sensor and wiring. I’ve had a lot of luck with that. Then try trans data again.
Just a question, but would freeze frame data tell you which happened first?
Just trying to figure out how to attack with generic scanner
Mike Ttown
Dear I have a problem with my car Ford Explorer 2007 light check engine and gave me in the bank 1 Code 135 and 141 and checked sensors intact and the heat circuit in the sensitive sound What do you expect the imbalance and how to deal with the problem and repair.
Im guessing a shift solenoid for second gear
Speed sensor? I've had this problem with my 2004 Dodge Ram Truck.
wonder if it's the same problem as the caravan ,trans computer in front left side inside the fender that,all rodden and perforated with rust
It's that little whosamajiggy on the side of the whatchamacallit
I am not sure if you tried this but manually putting the car in 1st seems to work fine, how about doing the same in 2nd gear manually? or is that not an option in this case?
looks like transmission related problem, slipping, jerking, not shifting gears, etc.
solenoid pack on the upper pan
Woooo....snow everywhere....nice...asia...sun everywhee....hot....humid...
DANGIT! Cliffhanger
You should enter that van in Concours D'elegance 2019
My intrepid did this when the solenoid went bad. I could drive for 15 minutes fine than it quit shifting. I pulled over restarted it and it was ok for another 10 minutes.
Looks like it's going to need a transmission
Internal transmission issue, Splines on 2-4 planet are wiped out (most likely, common issue)
Verify that 1st and 3rd work to very internal problem, roll vehicle down a hill to pick up enough speed to be in 3rd, if it engages and drives in 3rd but not work in 4th it’s internal to transmission. (I repaired one of these units once)
I like your theory, Jim!
the output speed sensor. But still, it has an internal fail. Bummer.
this transmission is 42te limp mode is default to 2nd gear the reason this wont go in drive
when in limp mode is 2nd gear is out so you get neutral turn the key off back on its then out
of limp mode till it tries to shift to 2nd then back in limp .... its time for a transmission
rebuild are replace
Kind of ironic that it goes to 2nd to limp you home, but 2nd gear is the one that's broken xDDD
Damn you getting as busy as Eric O. Noice!!
Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
Drive in second with a trans code I believe is their default limp procedure. I'm going with a bad solenoid pack. Good thing it and the speed sensors are super easy to change all from up top by just pulling the airbox :)
But we didn't have a solenoid code...all the electrical circuits are OK!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yeah they don't always throw electrical codes. They can fail mechanically and not throw codes. You asked for guesses :P Had one last week, no codes at all. Neon would hang in 2nd too long and then downshift and upshift over and over when coasting in 3rd. Solenoid pack was on the way out.
Shutting engine off kills transmission fluid pressure, resets.
Upon restart- TCM might use a correlation of pressure (engine input speed)
to transmission output, but the 1-2 shift isn't seeing expected pressure.
Broken or cracked filter body, no fluid pressure. (enough to change gear and HOLD it in 2nd)
Did the fluid look cavitated?
Didn't look foamy on the dipstick...
Hey Ivan, interesting diagnosis, I would bet it's the wiring short that is causing the controller not getting the correct info to shift or by rpm
I would expect the TCM to set a circuit code then. This is a "ratio" code, indicating no gear engagement in 2nd....very interesting!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics wow, that's interesting that point. Mmmm, I'll wait for the part 2 :)
Oldsmobile Silhouette and the Dodge Neon are among the worst performance in crash test. Not to mention one diagnostic service will cost more than what the vehicles are worth.
Could be anything. TCM, wiring, solenoids. Just keep on diagnosing.
CRUISE NITE !!! Low and slow is the way to go !!! Hahaha
Is the video on the tundra in the works?
Fluid must be 4+ no Dextron.
Test solenoid valves.
Is the software the correct version?
I had the samething but mind was chevy Lumina van with 3 .8 liter 94 i love that thing how much would u sell it if u fix it i would get my buddy and his flatbed to get it
Hey Danny! My plan is to get it running right, make some vids on it, and then sell to the highest bidder ;) Starting price would be parts and labor to get it running, plus a little bit. Underside and body are in fantastic shape on this one!
My #4013906468
Wow a tundra. Best truck on the road today.
I have a 2003 dodge neon throwing code p1698 tcm no buss any ideas I can’t figure it out