Making Shorter Makita Guide Rails | 2 Rails For the Price of 1 | Tool Review
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 19 апр 2018
- Why don't Makita make shorter guide rails? They don't so I decided to make one myself and chopped one in half.
It turns out in the UK that Makita guide rails are at a price point where you might as well buy a 1400mm rail and cut it into two pieces. Yes, Festool have an 800mm rail and Triton Tools will sell you 2 x 700mm rails, both of which are compatible with Makita tools.
However for just about the same money as the Triton offering, I got to decide where I cut the rail giving me one 600mm rail and a longer 800mm rail.
And there's more, with the separate connector kit I can now join these pieces to my existing rail and perform rip cuts on 2000mm or 2200mm pieces. Or with a second connector kit make cuts that are 2800mm long.
This is a simple solution to the problem of working in a small workshop.
You can find my earlier Makita Circular Saw review on my youtube channel at:
• Makita Circular Saw Re...
Aside from the Makita tools in the video, you also get to see my Evolution Tools Rage 3S saw make a really neat and burr free cut through the rail. Honestly there's practically no filing or sanding to be done afterwards. This saw is not perfect for precision cuts but it is sow versatile I really have no complaints. If you want precision cuts, learn how to use a shooting board.
Anyway I really hope you've enjoyed this video. If you have please like and share on social media and with your friends.
As this video is posted we're experiencing the warmest April since 1949, so get outside take you shop tools with you and make something outside for the first time this year.
Take care. Karl.
AMZN: * As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through these links.
Wherever possible links are to actual products used, but this is not always possible, for example some products are not available outside the UK in which case I have selected something similar. 
Хобби
![Which Rails Work? A Guide to Guiderails [video #403]](/img/1.gif)
Nice job. One of my favourite mottos is Improvise, Adapt, Overcome. This definitely falls into this. 👍
Thanks for the comment
I've had several comments about how rediculous cutting a rail in half is, but it's super useful and like you say you get a simple cross cut saw out of your tracksaw. Thanks for the comment.
Just came across your video. Originally I bought the Makita track saw with 55" rail and connectors on sale and added another 55" track for large cuts on 8' sheets. I have a very small shop 12 x 12' so even contractor table saw was always a huge pain, I have a garage attached but it is unheated in Canada, so it is for breaking down full sheets only. Made a small foldable cutting table with foam top and the Makita is my main saw now. Few months ago I bought 75" track on sale so I did what you did and cut my spare now 55" into 32" and 23" just like you. Perfect for my size shop for the short cuts without the huge overhang. Built all my replacement furniture for my houseboat with it, drawers and all. Bonus is the vacuum attachment, no more clouds of saw dust. My newest addition is a 90 deg clamp-on jig for the track made from rafter square, $15 cad instead of $200 like the Festool triton one on internet. So far it works great. Never touched the table saw for over a year now.
Honestly what do you use that small of a track for other than shelving? I'd love a 40" for cutting down doors 32" and under, but I can't find a Makita 39 anywhere in Canada. I have a spare 55 but can't justify cutting that because the other 15" would be useless. I guess I could cut a 75 down to a 40 and a 35.. but then once you have a 40, what good is an extra 35? Makita should make more lengths ..
👍
Really enjoying your videos, at last someone on RUclips who’s doesn’t love the sound of their own voice, rattling on for minutes on end rather than getting to the point.
You come across really well keep it up.
Thank-you Paul. I appreciate you saying that. It.feels very strange speaking to a camera in your workshop I'm glad I comes across well.
Great idea Karl
Cheers Warren.
Great idea. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome.
this is helpful. thank you.
I can imagine using a short track as a portable cross-cutting setup that can also do precise and consistent bevel cuts.
That's precisely how I use mine. Cutting holes for sink bowls is another handy use. Thanks for the comment.
I just trimmed all the factory ends on my Makita rails. The shorter ones weren't that bad but my 75" rail was off about 1/4". They are really nice and straight to join together now. Just used my Dewalt miter saw and a Forrest blade.
I aways check and I've only had to resort to a file a couple of times to get things to join. I now label my rail ends as over time I've learned which ones join better than others.
Great video. Great idea!
Thanks Steve. I hope everyone realised that it's the workpiece that slipped on the bench and not the short rail slipping on the workpiece. Just seen your new pics on Instagram, very cool.
Great video mate. Keep uo videos man
Thanks 👍😀
Thanks for sharing Karl. I have just ordered the guide rail adapter (part number 196953-0) for my Makita DHS680 cordless circular saw from FFX . It’s £50. If it doesn’t work nicely I’ll sell the saw and buy the cordless Makita track saw as I have 3 x 5ah Makita batteries. I’m now looking to buy the track. Thanks to your video I can now search for the 1000mm track and keep the sawing of tracks in my back pocket for future ref. Now subscribed.
No problem Christian. I now have the corded track saw but still use the circular saw on shortest track for crosscutting beams. I'd love to hear how this turns out for you.
Hey Christian, could you maybe tell if the adapter works well? I have the same model and am a bit sad that we need an adapter to use original rails from the same company. I would really appreciate feedback since there is very little info and videos on that topic on the web. Have a good one
I think you could start a new craze 'Pimp my Track Saw' There's obviously a need for shorter tracks. 🙂
Thanks - I've always wanted to start a craze.
I’m in !
Nice one mate ! 👍
Thanks for the comment.
I live in Cairns Queensland Australia. It just struck me as funny when you wrote down that the Festool 800mm guide is £55. My old lady neighbour mentioned the other day that she had her house built in 1945 for £50.
I know it's crazy isn't it.
Yes! like the information. I'm looking into purchasing these rails. And fully agree with modifications to suit application. Well done. Question being are these clampable to the surface. Cheers Mate.
Yes. You can get rail clamps from a number of brands. I have both Festool and Makita and they both fit and cost around £20 for a pair online.
Good idea, I need mine cut 😎
Go for it!
First of all, really helpful videos on this system, but I was wondering how you rate the guide adapter? I'm deciding between this system and the plunge saw. Would you now prefer the plunge saw? Or have you experienced anything that would warrant you purchasing the plunge saw?
Hi Tom. I get asked that question a lot and the simple answer, with the benefit of hindsight now I have a plunge saw, is going for the plunge saw would have made more sense. I now have two very well made and recommendable saws with one doing 90% of the work and with a few tricks a conventional circular saw can't do safely. Chief amongst these plunge cuts.
That said Makita circular saws are incredibly affordable and the package of a rail, adapter.and saw was about 1/2 the price of the comparable corded plunge saw. And setting up for the cut is no quicker.
I'd still recommend this setup if you have the saw already and want to make fast accurate straight cuts.
I should add that I have rail adapters for my Makita Jigsaw and, Bosch and Makita Routers. I'll get.around to featuring them on the channel soon.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop many thanks for your reply, I've been looking at the Makita DHS680Z with guide and adapter, as well as the Makita SP6000J1 plunge saw, I'm not sure if tool prices are low at the moment, but if you factor in batteries and a charger for the DHS680Z, then the plunge saw with guide is the cheaper option. Anyway thanks for the info.
By the way, 1000mm length of track is now available from Makita in the UK, but I still think your idea is better. Price is around 40 quid and part number is 199140-0. I got the kit with two 1500mm tracks and I'm finding, like you, that a shorter rail would be really useful. I'm going to cut one of my rails into 900mm and 600mm which will give some useful combinations as well as short pieces. If I ever need the full 3m then I'll just have to buy another connector kit. I've an Evolution R185SMS
saw. It has a "multi material" saw blade which cuts just about anything so hopefully should do this job. I would love to hear a bit more detail of how you cut it. I notice you started a plunge cut right on the raised guide part of the track , then some of the cut is not shown on the video, then you are doing a slide cut from the front of the rail. Can you add any detail to this please?. I have the saw and the track, so I'm ready to go, so any tips appreciated:). Thanks for an inspiring video.
You're absolutely correct and in-fact another video on the channel that shows me cutting the splinter guard for the first time was on a brand-new 1000m rail. I like the very short piece a lot and its probably my most used rail in the workshop as it makes small cuts or cut-outs really simple. Of course if Makita did a 700mm rail like Festool did then there wouldn't have been the impetus to pull off this little stunt but it's caught peoples imaginations and I know many who have cut there rails in two as a result. Thanks for the comment.
@Strawbyte Workshop Thanks for that. I am all ready to start making Aluminium swarf. I just wondered if you saw the latter part of my message and you have anything to add to the actual technique for cutting the rail please - I'm a little nervous about it...
@@ritcheycretien9875 Ooo.. no I didn't RUclips cut the message at the end of the sentance I didn't notice the show more. At the time I don't remember thinking about the cut. I placed the rail with the higher part at the back and went for it slowly. One thing I would do next time (perhaps) is place a piece of hard-bard or MDF under the rail to support the back of the cut. There was some roughness to the cut on the backside and some swarf that needed coaxing off with a file (not shown). And that's about it. Oh, and watch when you extend the saw arm out that you don't pull the saw to one side or the other. My evolution saw was a tiny bit sloppy as you extend the saw out.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop OK, done it!. The Evolution R185SMS saw turned out to be 110V so
was sent back and I got a Evolution F210SMS. That is an older model,
but brand new and just about identical to the newer R210SMS except the
colour!.
Took your advice and backed it up with a bit of 8mm MDF. Clamped each
end of the Makita track to the saws wings and let the track rest on the
rollers of the Evolution saw stand. Lined up cut mark with the laser,
let saw run up to speed, plunged fully with slide right out and fed in
slowly on the slide. Cut beautifully and did not move at all at the end
of the cut. Even the black strips and the splinter guard cut cleanly.
The blue slide strips got a bit feathered, but interestingly, that disappeared
on the first strip as I cut. I think the feathering on the second slide strip
would have gone too if I had lifted the saw and plunged again. Although the
work was clamped well enough, I didn't want to push my luck any more.
I'm delighted with the results, no burr whatsoever an the ally and it just
needs the sharp edges breaking with a deburrer or file. There should be
some images at the links below.
I can't thank you enough for kicking this idea of. I can now do a job
which I previously did not have room for.
Peter
ibb.co/y0q4kFt
ibb.co/8KPXLqY
ibb.co/Sm6cGng
Hi just come across your excellent video, when I looked into buying a rail to cut in half I find that Makita do a 1m rail, I think it might be a new addition to thier range...
Yes you're absolutely correct the part number is 199140-0. Oddly it's listed on Makita UKs website with no description or data sheet. I found it on FFX for 39 quid.
Good idea
Many many thanks
Great video, are these guide rails compatible with the DEWALT DWS520KT ?
Shaun Hill Hey there. I really don’t know if the dewalt saws are comparable with the Festool/Makita style rails I’m afraid.
I don’t know if you know this but Makita came out with a 39 inch or 990 mm track, it’s about 65 or $69 US. I thought about doing the same thing you did, but I just haven’t been able to do it yet.
Hey there Luc. Yes in the UK they're marketed as 1000mm tracks. They became available in the UK around 5 months after I made the video. However I do find the shorter of the two guide rails (600mm) really useful for both track saw and router.
They do make a 1,000mm track but you can also buy a pack of two clamps which slide into the track (one at each end) with which to secure a track across a shorter workpiece so that you don’t need to cut a long track to a more handy size.
Paul, you're absolutely right about the 1m rail and I did feature one in a later video where I showed cutting the splinter guard for the first time. At the time of the video the 800mm festool rail was around the perfect size for my needs but, as I explained, they're really expensive and there were few alternatives. I don't regret taking a full sized rail and cutting it in half. the shorter piece gets used all the time. I picked up a Festool FS-Rapid/R rail clamp really cheap (£15) in Amazon Warehouse some time ago and it lives on the shorter rail and is super handy for cutting posts or 2x12 rafters/beams.
Thanks for the comment and giving my video a watch. Take care. Karl.
Put a bench dog square on it and you have a hand crosscut guide. Bosch make a short rail with a square but I find mafell / Bosch slip around, plus it's £110
It’s been a while since I made that video but your right, a rail square attached makes for easy cross cuts. Thanks for the comment.
Hey mate. That evolution saw blade you used to cut the rail is for non ferrous metal or multimetarial?
It's the multi-material blade.
Carl sounds like "Whispering Bob Harris" from the Old Grey Whistle Test. Anyone else old enough to remember??????
You're not the first to make the comparison. It's quite the compliment as I've always loved Bob.
hi there hope you are well !!. Can I ask you something please?... after 3 moths of use (after getting some bench dogs/mft top from cnc design) I come to the conclusion my track makita 1.5m is slightly bowing outwards at around 0.1 to 0.2 mm - do you think that is okay . I think if it was 0.05 mm that be fine it would be the piece of wood would be up on one side slightly than the other prob the thickness of a piece of paper . For cabinet making what do you think - have you ever tried to see if yours is really true, perhaps in the real world its about perfect i can get one:(
Hi Christopher - The consistency and accuracy of makita rails has been a constant comment point on the videos that I've posted featuring them. If I say that Makita rails are cheaper than Festool someone will always comment that Festool are more accurate. I personally think that anybody that expects 'rocket science' levels of accuracy from a material that was pushed red hot through a die and then allowed to cool is expecting too much from the process. Following your email I checked all the rails I have (1 x 1400mm, 1 x 1000mm, 1 x 1500mm and the 1400mm I cut in half) and in all cases I find a variance along the back of the rail of between 0.05mm (on shorter rails) - 0.2mm on the back. So I would say this is normal. An MFT top will be +/- 0.05mm accurate (as it's MDF afterall) and so when using my Parf Dogs in the set-up I can only think that everything is within tolerance. And if you're working in wood how accurate are you aiming for? A sheet of 80GSM paper is 0.1mm thick with a fine pencil mark made on it approximately 0.5mm and an error of that magnitude isn't going to be noticed in the final piece. Just as an aside, when I make my track saw waste side jigs I make them to within +0.09mm to -0.01mm accuracy with two guides used to align the rail introducing a maximum error of 0.1mm. I know from feedback that everyone is super happy with their accurate waste-side cuts and the fact I have manufacturing tolerances is the last thing they care about.
One other thing I would say is that in my experience factors like, remembering to tighten the thumb screws to take the slop out the saw on the track, blade wobble or wear, condition of the splinter guard would have a much more significant effect.
It's an interesting question you raise. There are situation where it matters in my experience, such as joining two rails, where it can get really frustrating and I've had to send back 1 rail which was more banana shaped that straight or flat. Otherwise I'm happy with the results I get and when I'm not it's always been my fault rather than the saw.
Let me know what you think.
Karl
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Hi there, actually since I sent that message to you I have been doing a bit more investigating probably to the level of Columbo haha. anyway what I found was that : 1cm to 75cm the track is dead on, 1 to 85cm it is 0.1cm and 1 to 120cm (as i need space to put track saw on and off the track) is around .2mm. But also I am taking notice of the part the back end that is in contact wit the dog - so actually it well could be that the back part (and it is "n" shaped) might actually be just slightly bent in. Now I about to try track dogs which screw into the underside and so its on a different part of the track it self and so the result might be actually dead on all along. If you use those track dogs though there is a bit of slack, so what I did is just push the track back as you tighten each one and I found it fine - going off a pencil line i did before hand. In the real world though as you may find in your case 95% of the cuts is below 60cm so i am safe . for very long cuts i may end up eventually buying a 2,5m (I think that is the size) track. I speculate the front part of the track ...all along is more likely straight and prone much less to any kind of bend, unlike the back length which was probably done by human error (a knock or bang for example) Thanks for the long reply -I appreciate your thoughts and time spent :))))))))).
I've been pondering this for a few days. I don't want makita or festool rail since the Milwaukee rail is a lot thicker and stronger and has an extra feature. I'm considering buying two 1400s and cutting both, one as you did 800/600 and the other 1000/400. But will the 400 be any use at all? I imagine with a square attached it'd make for perfect square cuts on long thin timber like 90x45 or even less. I've always freehanded stuff like that with mixed results in the past. Thiughts? What exactly limits the shortness of the track?
Hi, thanks for the question. I've put a Festool rail square on the 600mm rail and it does a pretty fine job as a simple cross-cut saw for construction timber. You need to remember that the 50mm depth of cut on these saws is only achieved at the blades lowest point so to cut a 150mm joist you need at least the length of the saw before the cut and about 100mm afterwards, so that might be 250mm + 150mm (timber) + 100mm = 500mm which i would say is a minimum. You can just plunge straight into the timber but you only really save 100mm or so. I would say 400 is a bit too short.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop thanks for explaining! I get it now. So absolute minimum is determined by where the square puts the track. You'd need saw shoe length plus timber length of cut if you plunge, so for 90, let's call it 100, 350 absolute best case with full saw engagement but if you're happy letting it just roll off the end then less could suffice. Thanks again. I will buy the rails soon since the price is going up in a few weeks. I'll make calls on cutting division once I have saw and squares. Thanks again for your insight!
You say the best price you found for the connector pack was £8 (good price) mostly they seem to be, as you state £14 however the pack is only for one connector, but you need two, one on the top of the rail and one underneath! In my experience the rails don't work so great with only one connector. Also wanted to ask if you have had problems with the Makita rails being cupped, when i purchased mine, I had to send 6 rails back before i found two which were straight i also found that the profiles didn't match very well on a couple.
I think for putting the chopped rail back together the single connector (Part number P-45777) works well enough, but you're correct if joining two 1400mm rails the double connector pack is the right option (Part Number P-20177). As far as rails is concerned I've had to send one 1400mm but consider myself lucky with the others. I have eased over the edges of the profiles and when I connect them I've matched the ends for the smoothest transition between rails and marked them. It's clear that the quality of the rails is an issue for Makita over the Festool system based on the reviews I've seen. But the system overall including tools/adapters, etc. is affordable in a way that Festool isn't.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop I just wanted to point out to others that You need two connectors as i was caught out when ordering!. I absolutely agree with the affordability of the Makita range, after doing the usual reading of reviews I chose Makita based on most of my other equipment being Makita but also due to the price difference with Festool. Now I have straight rails i'm very happy with it. For others out there if your Rails are cupped or the profile don't match exactly..know your consumer rights and demand they are changed! You have 6 months from when they were purchased. The seller has to replace or repair by law if they are defective, doesn't matter what their own terms and conditions are, i.e don't get fobbed off with the usual 30 day policy!!
Did you use a metal cutting blade for that cutting I want to cut my dewalt rail ina 700mm / 800mm
I used a multi-material blade in the video. However aluminium and brass can be cut with woodworking blades designed for cross cutting. You need to go slow and clamp the rail down.
Makita makes a 990.6mm/39 inch track/rail guide!
You're absolutely right I feature it in this video ruclips.net/video/2NLRoeq-0k0/видео.html on my channel. That said it's really handy having two really short rails in a small workshop.
Whats the model of your Makita CS ?? 5008MG??
HS7601J/2 230v UK model.
Hi, i am looking to use the Parfguide system but have Bosch tools and they do not currently have the track clips for bosch. They are useable with Makita and Festool track and the Bosch track saw can be converted to work with Makita and Festool track. I already have bosch track so i was reluctant to spend on another track especially as i could not find the perfect length i wanted. Thanks to your video i think i will buy a length of Makita track and cut it down. The evolution saw you used, is it a wood or metal saw? The track is aluminium i assume and i think it could be cut with a wood chop saw but i am not sure what the finished cut would be like.
Hi. The evolution saw used their standard multi-material blade which cuts wood, non-ferrous metals and steel. A standard wood blade on another saw would be fine if fairly sharp - but check the ok nstru croons that came with your blade/saw.
Two years on iv just purchased a 1.5 and a 1m makita so they must of got there act together
There's certainly more choice now rather than just 1.4m. I just wish they'd do an 800mm which much more handy.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop thanks for RUclips content love your vids...I got 2x700mm tracks with saw was going to flog them as I dont like jointed tracks but then a 700mm is handy for small shop! For little cuts
Thought I was watching old grey whistle test at 1st
Good vid though
Ah,.whispering Bob Harris, those were the days.
Strawbyte Workshop
Thanks for good humour
Thought you were going to say now here’s Alice Cooper on the Makita lol
😅 nice but that track moved & u didn't say nothing 😂😂 i was thinking about getting a 1.5m track & cutting it down to a 1m track & 500cm track. I dunno tho, is 500cm too short?
I can't tell you how many times the track moving gets noticed or how many times I wished I shot that cut again! So i settled on 600 and 800 an i I think 600 is about as low as you can go. It is the more useful length.
I was thinking of using the same cut. That way I can buy another 1500mm track and joint it with the 1000mm to cover 2400mm full length plywood cuts. I figure 500mm is a good size for short cuts but I'm open to being advised differently.
track shifted horribly anti clockwise there
I think the workpiece moved with it, so they both shifted together on the bench.
👍
Think they do a 1000mm now
Yes - they began selling it around 6 months after I made the video. In fact the video I later recorded showing how to trim the splinter guard was using a new 1000mm rail. I still find these shorter ones useful and the shortest one is probably my most used and most versatile piece of track. Thanks for the comment Chris.
In the USA Makita sells a 39-inch guide rail that's most likely 1000mm.
That's correct and in-fact I've featured the 1000mm rail in a later video.
👍🙋🤝
👍😀
They do 1000
Thanks for the comment. At the time of the video they only made 1400mm rails which was really frustrating. I have the 1000mm rail now but still find the short rails I made really handy.
Why were you wearing your pyjama bottoms?
Without them I'd be naked below the waist.
Mak do a 1000mm £40
You're right they do. Another view contacted me with the details before xmas. My splinter guard trimming video featured it. 1000mm is the perfect size for most jobs. However the two shorter rails I made are dead handy. Thanks for the comment.
What!!!,
Take it outside an cut it .tracks are best left as long as pos. the Aldi lidl b an q plunge saw comes we short track if you really need them an am sure they fit . I have been using the maffel flexi system for nearly 15 years I think and its great .
Hey there. You're absolutely correct - tracks are best left as long as possible. And don't get me wrong, I haven't taken my only 1400mm track and chopped it in two. I do need a shorter piece, it's perfect for cutting down reclaimed kitchen doors for my projects, and what I was trying to point out is that Makita don't make a shorter track, Festool do (and Triton - you get two) but they're more expensive than buying a second Makita track and chopping it down. For me a portable circular saw is the most versatile tool I own and having made the upgrade the fact I could take it and use the makita track system was a bonus. I've been using a saw-guide/saw combo for all my recent projects and I don't think I've used my table saw in months. Anyway thanks for the comments. Keep watching.
A video on how to cut a track up... wtf? Then the track moved when being used!! Really??
Hey Sean. I know it's absolutely f*&king unbelievable and what's more it's been viewed over 19 thousand times. Yes the track shifted at the end - not something I noticed until now. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Strawbyte Workshop... fair play to you.
They do a 1m rail so what was the point of this, totally stupid and waste of money.
Hey Philip. I completely disagree. yes, they now do a 1m rail at the time of the video only Festool had quality rails less than 1400mm (800mm) and they cost more than a 1400 Makita rail cut in half. Almost 4 years on I find the 600mm rail I made gets more use than almost all my other rails.