Hi Nick, I used my old Cheap X Y Table on my dremel Drill press for a few years to modify 1950s model trains for digital conversions. Finally i had a task I could do manually, it require much more accuracy and repeatability. So i took the handles off and connected a Stepper motor. I found a CNC Shield Board that fits on top of an Arduino Uno Hobby Micro Controller. then I added A4988 Stepper drivers, Installed GRBL Firmware into the Arduino and UGS frontend G Code Generator to my Laptop PC. Wired it up. Oh I also took an old steeper off my 3 D Printer designed and printed a Dremel Adaptor to a Z Axis that fit the Drill Press post. Viola! With a lot of You Tube tutorials and about $100 I have an honest to goodness CNC Mini Milling Machine. I have 12 older Steam Engine Chassis from 1936 to 1955 that I need mill a slot for clearance to add a timing Gear to the Drive gear for Puff & Chuff Digital control. And guess what? It worked. The Old X Y Tables work BUT i really need to upgrade to ball bearings, Which i also found on You Tube and for $25 I ordered the parts. Serious Well Under $200 complete I have a 4000 Dremel, Drill Press, Microlux X Y Table and a hand full of Internet of Things stuff Hardware/Software and Free Code I have assembled a 3 Axis CNC Mill. OK 8 by 4 inches maybe, its a Mini Mill, but I can draw a rectangular Slot, translate that to G Code, send that to Motion controller, then set up the part to be machines and cut the slot into it accurately and reload and cut a nother one exactly the same. Don't under estimate these cheap little tools, the newer tech is really cool, not expensive, the free GRBL Code is from MIT! I had a 3D Printer for years it was kind of cheap but I liked the size and just keep fixing it with Upgrades. the summer a whole new Firmware came out that requires a new controller and mini touch screen but My printer is new born better, more accurate, faster and i can print all my parts easier. That experience lead me to upgrade my Dremel and Drill Press with manual X Y Table and its NOT Rocket Science, it is tech but lots of tutorials and folks to help. I do not know how the code does what it does. I just know if set up up and design my part the machine can make it. I am thrilled, my first cut video ruclips.net/video/zMleoU6Nzng/видео.html
Thanks for an honest review. It was as I thought. This is what i need for wood and plastics around the farm. Mostly to be able to drill "exact" hole spacings, but the ability to take down the width of something like that little wheel is a perfect examples. Guess all the holes in things i make now will be spaced with 12/24/36/48mm spacings 😆
On the hold down clamps; the outside bolt, the bolt head is supposed to be on the top of the table. Much easier to do adjustments. The operation manual actually has a picture of how it is supposed to be set up.
I use one just like it for my drill press. I did try milling a little it works for plastic but nothing harder. I do however really like it for drilling.
looks like I can add my press vice to this and make it a sliding press vice giving me X/Y movement in a more compact package that'll work great on a compact drill press
It looked like maybe you needed to set the RPM's, I couldn't tell from the video. Cutting speed times four, divided by the diameter, (in this case the endmill) will give you your RPM's, there are charts for cutting speeds (and feeds for that matter). I think in this case about 1,200 RPM's would work. For drilling, I think this crossfeed table is the "E" ticket! Thanks for the video.
Did you ever try plunge cutting with it. Set a depth stop, and plunge with a center cutting endmill, and advance in the direction you want but .010"-.015" and since drill presses are made to take that direction of force better than side loading. Rough it close to your desired size and then side mill it?
I did try that among other things. The rigidity of the whole setup was awful. A good drill press and a good cross slide table can take some light side loading no problem. The garbage drill press in this video with it’s pressed metal table could not.
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff good to know. I've been eyeballing that exact x,y table for a while and just found your video on it so I was curious. Thank you for the quick response. I've also been curious to maybe repurpose a table from a 3d printer and make a cheap quasi 2-axis cnc table to "chain drill" various patterns or shapes quickly and then grind things to finished shape. But obviously have to make a rigid table or mount for it cause of how much drill press tables flex.
When doing this make sure your garage door is open so the chuck has someplace to go when the morris taper lets go and sends itself flying out at 10000 miles an hour, ask me how I know.
That's why you upgraded and you put another style clamp or vice or tool holder from a mini lathe to depending on where you put it on the table would make where you start your measurements from I think you're doing it all by hand it's not a CNC it should be easy as hell you're not writing programs to run a CNC machine to cut parts your basically turning your drill press into a milling machine or a mini lathe
Don't. The drill press is only good at handling force in one dimension. If you put any axial force on the chuck it can pop out and do bad things to you as a sliding vise only puts minimal axial force on the bit and chuck. Also, the feed-rate is too slow for router bits so you'll end up scorching anything you're working on and If you have a router you can DIY a bare-bones router table for the price of this thing.
To be a fair review one needs to eliminate all those outside variables to provide a accurate assessment of the table itself. I think I will take a chance and purchase one. thanks
It depends on the speed and the depth. On a cnc milling machine it would work best ? I got one and at 10000 rpm it works very well. A fact is we cannot expect high load sof this device. ;=)
And if you're going to finish the surface with a sandpaper or grinding stone you need to leave your cut a little bit higher than your intended target otherwise you will be too small after you finish grinding or smoothing your cuts flat cuts flat
Hey, how accurate is it side to side please? I have to mill 2mm deep in very soft metal for 15mm straight line with a 2mm end mill. What do you think the side to side variation would be over that distance I'm doing just one or two slots so have all the time to set it up.I just dont want it to jump sideways.. guess is fine of course. Thanks!
Look at that just like I suspected you don't have to place your work in the center of that XY table either you can offset it because you're doing it by I not buy machine or program so if you mess up you mess up not the equipment so any mistakes you make their on you which is why all the Carpenters say measure twice cut once
Your vibrating because it's a drill press your press tables not locked or your press is not locked in the highest position and it is moving up and down when it's running or there is a little bit of play in your bearings for your cutting I'm sure you didn't check any of that a lot of the drills I've used I've seen the tend to wobble a little bit specially if they have a cheap chuck they are not 100% center when they cut the which gives you a little bit of wobble
As I said in the video, the scale along the X axis is in both inches and centimeters. The adjustable collars on the hand wheels are not useful for either metric or imperial as they have five marks labeled in 1/4 increments. The lead screw also has a pitch of 1.2mm per rotation. For Metric I would expect 1mm per rotation.
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff The 'lead screw' is actually just a metric 8mm/1.25 pitch standard threaded rod, which means that the rotation is 1.25mm - thus the 5 marks (0.25mm each)
You'd better recalculate 10 mm because 10 is half a size bigger than 3/8 3/8 and 9 mm are the exact same 10 mm half a size bigger than a 3/8 that's why 10 mm strip out 3/8 bolts more closer to a half inch but not exactly because 13 and 1/2 are the same so your calculations of 10 mm being an inch is not correct
what are you trying to say? 10 is half size bigger than 3/8? Half of what size? 3/8 and 9mm are not the same. 9mm = .3543 3/8 = .3750 10mm = .3937 1/2 = .5000 13mm = .5118
And you do a way better job if you slowed your turning of the XY table down you wouldn't miss so much material and leave lines in your pieces that you are cutting like you did that plastic pulley
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff as a 33 year tool and die maker, I'll side with caution and not side load a tool that is not supposed to be. Find me one drill chuck manufacturer that recommends side loading their chucks. The Jacob's taper will let go... sooner or later. But, you be you.
@@calholli I didn't really have a need for an XY table other than to mess around with it, so I didn't look into any higher quality alternatives. There are a few that I've heard people speak highly of in forums. Much more money though.
@@calholli I just ordered a Grizzly brand table. I well let you know if it's any good when it arrives. It has great reviews unlike all the "paid" fake reviews on Amazon products...
@@nsmturbo5902 I ordered the red and green table on youtube for $130.. it's heavy cast iron and has adjustable jibs.. so far it seems ok--- although, it came with one of the main screw blocks broken... from being dropped in shipping.. they just put it in a box without any packaging at all and the handle shafts were sticking out of the sides of the wooden box-- so it was dropped hard and several times.. The Ebay seller gave me 20% discount.. so I'm sold on it. It's fairly heavy duty for what I need it for.
Mostly due to the ends only being made of plastic with no support behind them. Mine broke off after trying with metal. Also it being made of aluminium is alot of flex in it.
Hi Nick, I used my old Cheap X Y Table on my dremel Drill press for a few years to modify 1950s model trains for digital conversions. Finally i had a task I could do manually, it require much more accuracy and repeatability. So i took the handles off and connected a Stepper motor. I found a CNC Shield Board that fits on top of an Arduino Uno Hobby Micro Controller. then I added A4988 Stepper drivers, Installed GRBL Firmware into the Arduino and UGS frontend G Code Generator to my Laptop PC. Wired it up. Oh I also took an old steeper off my 3 D Printer designed and printed a Dremel Adaptor to a Z Axis that fit the Drill Press post. Viola! With a lot of You Tube tutorials and about $100 I have an honest to goodness CNC Mini Milling Machine. I have 12 older Steam Engine Chassis from 1936 to 1955 that I need mill a slot for clearance to add a timing Gear to the Drive gear for Puff & Chuff Digital control. And guess what? It worked. The Old X Y Tables work BUT i really need to upgrade to ball bearings, Which i also found on You Tube and for $25 I ordered the parts. Serious Well Under $200 complete I have a 4000 Dremel, Drill Press, Microlux X Y Table and a hand full of Internet of Things stuff Hardware/Software and Free Code I have assembled a 3 Axis CNC Mill. OK 8 by 4 inches maybe, its a Mini Mill, but I can draw a rectangular Slot, translate that to G Code, send that to Motion controller, then set up the part to be machines and cut the slot into it accurately and reload and cut a nother one exactly the same. Don't under estimate these cheap little tools, the newer tech is really cool, not expensive, the free GRBL Code is from MIT! I had a 3D Printer for years it was kind of cheap but I liked the size and just keep fixing it with Upgrades. the summer a whole new Firmware came out that requires a new controller and mini touch screen but My printer is new born better, more accurate, faster and i can print all my parts easier. That experience lead me to upgrade my Dremel and Drill Press with manual X Y Table and its NOT Rocket Science, it is tech but lots of tutorials and folks to help. I do not know how the code does what it does. I just know if set up up and design my part the machine can make it. I am thrilled, my first cut video ruclips.net/video/zMleoU6Nzng/видео.html
Thanks for an honest review. It was as I thought. This is what i need for wood and plastics around the farm. Mostly to be able to drill "exact" hole spacings, but the ability to take down the width of something like that little wheel is a perfect examples.
Guess all the holes in things i make now will be spaced with 12/24/36/48mm spacings 😆
Thanks for support...
Works great for milling 80% lowers
I've done so many by hand at this point it would be really nice to get a proper vise setup.
@@KodyAWSOME they work great I use is mainly for rc planes with my son makes quick work when milling wood
Nice. I bought this to use on my drip press and got it at a good price as well
Thank you for saving me some money.
On the hold down clamps; the outside bolt, the bolt head is supposed to be on the top of the table. Much easier to do adjustments. The operation manual actually has a picture of how it is supposed to be set up.
Probably don’t need to say this but drill presses bearings aren’t really designed for axial loads so I would be pretty careful using it that way
Yes indeed, it can cause the chuck to drop out which wont be good if it is spinning fast at the time.
Depends on the drill press. I have a 1940’s Atlas/Craftsman drill press that does fine for my hobby milling needs.
I think drill presses are designed for axial load
I use one just like it for my drill press. I did try milling a little it works for plastic but nothing harder. I do however really like it for drilling.
looks like I can add my press vice to this and make it a sliding press vice giving me X/Y movement in a more compact package that'll work great on a compact drill press
PET THE CAT DAMMIT!!!
Thank you!
Thank You for a good review on this cheap xy table. I will probaly buy one soon. I think that the quality is good enough considering the price.
Thanks for watching!
Lol nice kitty my cat used to do the same always right there wanting to be petted when your doing something important.
It looked like maybe you needed to set the RPM's, I couldn't tell from the video. Cutting speed times four, divided by the diameter, (in this case the endmill) will give you your RPM's, there are charts for cutting speeds (and feeds for that matter). I think in this case about 1,200 RPM's would work. For drilling, I think this crossfeed table is the "E" ticket! Thanks for the video.
Did you ever try plunge cutting with it. Set a depth stop, and plunge with a center cutting endmill, and advance in the direction you want but .010"-.015" and since drill presses are made to take that direction of force better than side loading. Rough it close to your desired size and then side mill it?
I did try that among other things. The rigidity of the whole setup was awful. A good drill press and a good cross slide table can take some light side loading no problem. The garbage drill press in this video with it’s pressed metal table could not.
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff good to know. I've been eyeballing that exact x,y table for a while and just found your video on it so I was curious. Thank you for the quick response. I've also been curious to maybe repurpose a table from a 3d printer and make a cheap quasi 2-axis cnc table to "chain drill" various patterns or shapes quickly and then grind things to finished shape. But obviously have to make a rigid table or mount for it cause of how much drill press tables flex.
@@steelcannibal I want a 3d printer so bad. I want to make thumb slugs and part for bowling
When doing this make sure your garage door is open so the chuck has someplace to go when the morris taper lets go and sends itself flying out at 10000 miles an hour, ask me how I know.
Love your cat :D
That's why you upgraded and you put another style clamp or vice or tool holder from a mini lathe to depending on where you put it on the table would make where you start your measurements from I think you're doing it all by hand it's not a CNC it should be easy as hell you're not writing programs to run a CNC machine to cut parts your basically turning your drill press into a milling machine or a mini lathe
I lost the clamps, is there any alternatives?
Nice video....would be possible use router bits?
Don't. The drill press is only good at handling force in one dimension. If you put any axial force on the chuck it can pop out and do bad things to you as a sliding vise only puts minimal axial force on the bit and chuck. Also, the feed-rate is too slow for router bits so you'll end up scorching anything you're working on and If you have a router you can DIY a bare-bones router table for the price of this thing.
Great video... Thanks
To be a fair review one needs to eliminate all those outside variables to provide a accurate
assessment of the table itself. I think I will take a chance and purchase one. thanks
something along these lines
ruclips.net/video/KmIe_U8RrOQ/видео.html
Mine just arrived and to my SURPRISE it had no play in the gibb/both axis.WOW!!
It depends on the speed and the depth. On a cnc milling machine it would work best ? I got one and at 10000 rpm it works very well. A fact is we cannot expect high load sof this device. ;=)
And if you're going to finish the surface with a sandpaper or grinding stone you need to leave your cut a little bit higher than your intended target otherwise you will be too small after you finish grinding or smoothing your cuts flat cuts flat
Drill press bearings aren’t made for the side loading that milling creates.
Wouldn't it be wise to increase the RPM to get better cuts and finishes???
Sir price
I do wood milling with router
the music the best part of this !
Hey, how accurate is it side to side please? I have to mill 2mm deep in very soft metal for 15mm straight line with a 2mm end mill. What do you think the side to side variation would be over that distance I'm doing just one or two slots so have all the time to set it up.I just dont want it to jump sideways.. guess is fine of course. Thanks!
Look at that just like I suspected you don't have to place your work in the center of that XY table either you can offset it because you're doing it by I not buy machine or program so if you mess up you mess up not the equipment so any mistakes you make their on you which is why all the Carpenters say measure twice cut once
I bought this to drill holes in my bowling ball. Until i figure out how to make a rotating bowling ball jig. So i can add pitches
@@StephRenee812 Now thats a unique application, Report back how it works!
@NickMakesBreaksStuff yeah. In my mind anything is possible. I found some old Patents and thought I'd play around. I definitely will. 😊
Your vibrating because it's a drill press your press tables not locked or your press is not locked in the highest position and it is moving up and down when it's running or there is a little bit of play in your bearings for your cutting I'm sure you didn't check any of that a lot of the drills I've used I've seen the tend to wobble a little bit specially if they have a cheap chuck they are not 100% center when they cut the which gives you a little bit of wobble
Never mind
U think if u used a dremel in place of the drill there would be different results with metal
Higher spindle speed would definitely help for small endmills
Those are metric, bud, 12 rotations=12mm
@@dannymoneywell Ah yes, the metric system. Well known to be a base 12 system of counting
Depending on what country was made in more than likely China it's running the metric system or centimeters not standard SAE did you finish school
As I said in the video, the scale along the X axis is in both inches and centimeters. The adjustable collars on the hand wheels are not useful for either metric or imperial as they have five marks labeled in 1/4 increments. The lead screw also has a pitch of 1.2mm per rotation. For Metric I would expect 1mm per rotation.
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff The 'lead screw' is actually just a metric 8mm/1.25 pitch standard threaded rod, which means that the rotation is 1.25mm - thus the 5 marks (0.25mm each)
the cat likes it ! he says it smells like china fish bait
The speed is way too slow, and the mill mounted in a drill chuck is not recommended.
about 1/2 of the music volume would be much better
You'd better recalculate 10 mm because 10 is half a size bigger than 3/8 3/8 and 9 mm are the exact same 10 mm half a size bigger than a 3/8 that's why 10 mm strip out 3/8 bolts more closer to a half inch but not exactly because 13 and 1/2 are the same so your calculations of 10 mm being an inch is not correct
what are you trying to say? 10 is half size bigger than 3/8? Half of what size? 3/8 and 9mm are not the same.
9mm = .3543
3/8 = .3750
10mm = .3937
1/2 = .5000
13mm = .5118
Kitty
And you do a way better job if you slowed your turning of the XY table down you wouldn't miss so much material and leave lines in your pieces that you are cutting like you did that plastic pulley
Drill rpm is too low. And when milling add some WD40
how many stitches did you get for trying to mill with a drill chuck? the chuck will chase you... NEVER mill with a drill chuck, EVER.
Zero. No need to stoke fear when common sense will do.
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff as a 33 year tool and die maker, I'll side with caution and not side load a tool that is not supposed to be. Find me one drill chuck manufacturer that recommends side loading their chucks. The Jacob's taper will let go... sooner or later. But, you be you.
thanks, 10/10 will be getting one. i wasnt expecting tolerances thin than a pubic hair
The sudden, unexpected, excessively loud "music" breaks make this just too painful to watch . . . might have been interesting . . .
Thanks for the feedback Ron!
Sorry bro, but you need to learn the basics. You lost your screw nuts 🤷🏻♂️ just fix them with rubber band or something.
You need to learn about feeds and speeds now.
Not on this hunk of garbage
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff Did you ever figure out a better table? I'm trying to get a table or X- vise .. but it's hard to know which one to buy.
@@calholli I didn't really have a need for an XY table other than to mess around with it, so I didn't look into any higher quality alternatives. There are a few that I've heard people speak highly of in forums. Much more money though.
@@calholli I just ordered a Grizzly brand table. I well let you know if it's any good when it arrives. It has great reviews unlike all the "paid" fake reviews on Amazon products...
@@nsmturbo5902 I ordered the red and green table on youtube for $130.. it's heavy cast iron and has adjustable jibs.. so far it seems ok--- although, it came with one of the main screw blocks broken... from being dropped in shipping.. they just put it in a box without any packaging at all and the handle shafts were sticking out of the sides of the wooden box-- so it was dropped hard and several times.. The Ebay seller gave me 20% discount.. so I'm sold on it. It's fairly heavy duty for what I need it for.
Eyeball it Burt
Dude, really. A crescent wrench, u deserve the quality u got
These tables are garbage. ok for wood and plastic. if you want for metal dont bother. mine went in the bin
Why? poor tolerances or poor parts? thx in advance
Mostly due to the ends only being made of plastic with no support behind them. Mine broke off after trying with metal. Also it being made of aluminium is alot of flex in it.
The loud music noise pissed me off. You should listen first before publish "You idiot". Stick it...
🤣
You just had to put some fucked up music in there didn’t you……