I never comment on videos but this video saved us $3000k plus from a transmission shop. Definitely try this 1st before you take it in to a shop to get taking advantage of!!
Purchased a 2012 T/C with 25K mi. in 2013. Dealer said tranny fluid change at 120K and I said YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING! It is a documented topic, but at 75K I had dealer replace filter and fluid. It was done at 36K as well and I plan on doing it every 50K in line with my goal of taking excellent care of our vehicles. This is our 3rd Chrysler van with having 306K on the previous Dodge GrandCaravan before a wreck took it out. The 3.6 is an excellent motor, but all things need excellent maintenance. Nice video.
I just finished changing the fluid and filter on our 2016 DGC. Took me 3 hours and $99. I did something no one on RUclips had mentioned- clean the bolts. Our van with 86K miles was still factory sealed with silicone, so to prevent any of that coming loose from the bolts, I made sure of of that was removed before re-install of the pan. Thank you for the video. It was one of 3 I studied before tackling the project.
THANK YOU!!! I called a few shops, they said I needed a rebuild for $4400. Found your video that described my issues so decided to give it a shot. Van is now back to normal. Your video made me feel confident to do the repair (I've only ever myself done brakes and oil changes). YOU'RE A LIFESAVER!
You did a good analysis on the clogged filter scenario. Most people don't realize, that hesitation is the filter holding back the transmissions pump, which is trying to suckup fluid to run with. Chrysler uses silicone gasket maker out of factory. That what I'm also gonna use. Not trusting the cork gasket, and not feeling the rubber one either. Those are T25 torx screw, not allen. I feel anyone who performs this job, should apply gasket silicone (even if using a gasket) to insure a good seal, to prevent leaks.
I have a '14 T&W. Planning on doing this myself and have been research how to do it. Out of all the mechanic videos I've watch, yours is the best. Your commentary, and basic information is nice and useful. Thank you so very much for an entertaining and informative video!
This was a great tutorial. The only thing i would add is that when you first start the vehicle up after the fluid has been added, you should run the transmission selector in the car through all the gears slowly, stopping at each gear for acouple seconds. You need to give the new fluid time to fill all the appropriate chambers/selinoids before backing it off the ramps. That's why you had that hissing sounds that eventually went away.
Every mechanic shop are no longer about the customer but about how they can rip you off some way, some how. This is why they lose customers by the minute, they still have enough poor souls out there who got no choice but to trust them, like women or elderly or the guy who does not know anything mechanical or do not want to get his hands dirty, so thanks to tutorials like this one there is hope. I am in the start part of process of rebuilding our 2015 Town and Country after my daughter hydro locked engine in a local storm last summer, Mopar lifetime warranty and progressive insurance full cover denied coverage after dealer quote the repair close to 12K, that engine was actually replaced already once when the car had 59000 miles due to a spun bearing, costed me $100.00 at the time, now this time around they just wont cover it, my daughter did not drove intentionally through water, she was caught in a flood so they all told me to total the car, I smiled and replied "sure" that is how I am taking it apart and doing it myself, not my first rodeo rebuilding an engine, my second one so why not? When you say " you can fix that" that is absolutely right!
In the market to possibly buy one of these minivans. This will be the first thing I will do after bringing it home. Your tutorial is straight forward and very well explained how to do this. Thanks for the info!
Thank Bud! I used to work at Daimler-Chrysler ITP4 plant that was the largest manufacturing facility of your 62TE transmission. This tranny is by far the largest transmission project Chrysler has ever produced. It is a good transmission but only if it is routinely serviced exactly the way you are doing it. There are two things that will kill the 62TE. Heat and contamination,so keep them cool and clean. Use Mopar full synth fluid (don't mess around with these other fluids. put Mopar in...). Reset the TCM each time. If you don't have a scan tool, take the battery leads off and touch them together for 5 minutes and that will do it. These things and just drive cool and don't race the hell out of them. If you live in Az or Tx keep that cooler nice and clean and you can get 400,000 miles out of it like I got in my minivan. It had 416,000 when I sold it and it still ran great!.
Is the Mopar Full Synth Fluid the same as the ATF+4?? If i go to the Chrysler parts counter, what do i ask the guy for? Mopar Full Synth transmission fluid??
I have found it to be good practice after performing any service to a transmission. Over time, the TCM's adaptive learning functions can become corrupted, which can lead to poor shifting, transmission slippage, and other issues. If the tranny feels like it may be slipping after this fluid service, you have eliminated the possibility of it being linked to any learned behaviors. It is my advice and I think it is good to ask 'why' but it is certainly not anything that has to be done.
@@Jeff_Seely I would have to agree with your statements. It's very good practice to do a TCM reset. And i like how you explained that if you don't have a electronic tool to reset the unit, you can do it the "old fashion" way of just touching the cables together. Your advice is very sound and much appreciated. Especially since you built these transmissions when they were new.
My mother as had one's from 84, 87, 91, 04,06 and 10 she had Grand Caravans and a couple of Town and county's and I got my first 06 Grand Caravan and we loved them all.
Thanks for sharing and helping others from getting scammed. Good quality video and good job sir! Just FYI, the factory uses rtv for the pan installation and the factory service manual states to use rtv when servicing. Doesn't really matter as a gasket works fine as you've shown. I've done the service twice now on our 2016 t&c with now near 150k, not a single issue with of the transmission. Service is key to keeping any car alive.
I replaced pan with one with drain bolt. 40 $ ~ then new filter. Cleaned magnet. Measured how much fluid came out and put back in same amount of mopar brand fluid. Around 65k miles. Oh mine is 2015 grand caravan. Then 2yrs/20k miles later, drained and refilled. 90k now and so far no issues.
BIG WARNING - Dodge Grand Caravan SE 2010, 3.3L engine - Although I thank you for this video and for giving me the courage to do this myself, I was mortified at the DIY garage when I realized AFTER dropping the transmission oil pan that my pan + gasket assembly was NOT the same as in your video. Hence, the parts I had ordered did not fit. My pan is about twice the size as the gasket ordered and the filter is made of metal and snaps on without screws. I was extremely lucky that the DIY garage had a deal with a local parts store who delivered the right parts, because if not, I would've been in serious trouble.
Also take out the oil dipstick and use the opposite side of stick and mark cold at 10mm and hot at 40mm. You can then use that for checking transmission fluid level.
I added 5 quarts to start and checked the fluid over a few days. I used the oil dipstick and basically you dont want to be higher than the letter a in safe from the dipstick. Measure with car on and warm. Ended up adding close to 6 quarts total
This vehicle should have a magnet in its pan. Between the lack of a magnet and the silicon gasket, it looks like someome replaced this already. Magnet is important to collect the tiny metallic shavings over time..
I don't know why there was no magnet, but 62TEs come from the factory with silicon gaskets. I just did mine today and it was silicon and had never been serviced.
Was there not a cap on the atf+4 oil fill tube? I think its supposed to have a twist on cap. The manual tells you how many "quartz" it takes , maybe it's in liters and that got ya😂 good job, youve got the goice and personality for this, you should have taken over from Bob Barker or pat sajak. Any about changing the plugs on this vehicle or coolant pump ?
How is the transmission going on both yours and your friend's? Interested in knowing. I only use the recommended mopar atf +4 but was wondering about the other brands and how they do. Appreciate any info. Good video
Thank you for the Video brother, I will try this on my 2013 Chrysler Town and Country. it has a leak that seems to be in the same area, the seals look pretty bad on,
Careful! You might want to research "oil filter housing". Those are at the top of the v on the engine. It is very common for those to leak and drip down the side of the tranny. It looks like a tranny leak but its coming from that part.
With all my Chrysler vehicles I always have disconnected the transmission line and put a low pressure from an air compressor in there you can get almost all the fluid out except for one quart!
Great job! The only concern I have is there is no magnet in the bottom of that pan. Most Dodge/Chrysler transmissions that are in those Caravans have a circular magnet in the lower side of the pan by the little dimple. I'm wondering if the previous owner changed the filter and took that magnet out and didn't put it back. I'm not entirely sure its needed, just curious not seeing one in there.
DIYers who only do this every year or two will usually get better results using high quality gaskets (like Fel-Pro) instead of silicon (which takes a bit of talent). Just be sure to torque them correctly.
i have a 2009 chrysler town and country with the 3.8 litre V-6 with the 62TE transmission. a couple of weeks ago it went into limp mode and the check engine light came on and it would not shift anymore into the higher gears. i think its stuck in 2 or 3rd gear. i do not believe it has ever had the fluid changed or the filter. the engine has over 200.000 miles on it. when i disconnect the negative terminal that will take it out of limp mode but for just a few miles then the engine lite comes back on and it is stuck in the lower gears again. i am going to change the trans fluid and filter and hope that works. what do you think ? will it help ? when its out of limp mode it shifts just fine.
If you have never changed the transmission fluid after 200k, i would not touch it as most likely the dirt that is keeping your tranny alive,,will let go if the fluid and filter is changed and cause internal damage to the transmission!
I had a similar issue with my’08 caravan and it turned out to be a bad shift solenoid. I had to put in a new solenoid pack (around $250). You can do it yourself, but it’s time consuming.
I had took a car to a trans shop said oh u need a rebuild so took it to another shop they wanted to do more diagnosis they wasn't condemning trans so I decided to put a new battery in car as the car had original bad battery causing trans issues after replacing battery no more issues drove Impala another 29k.Alot of places wanna do a flush when you only want a filter and pan fluid change to get more $$ out of you.
I have a 2015 with 138000 miles. I had just the opposite problem. It was running great until I decided to change the filter and trans fluid for the 1st time. About 2 weeks later it started slipping. Wouldn't go past 40 mph. Cost me $5000 to rebuild the trans, but at least it comes with a 3 year warranty.
@@jasperjenkins3290 Duralast filter and Castrol ATF +4 fluid. It took 6 quarts. I measured the amount that came out and I put back the same. I was told that, if changing the fluid caused the transmission to fail, then it was already on borrowed time. Lesson learned. Change the trans fluid more often next time. Oh well. My rebuilt trans has a 3-year warranty. I had considered getting CarShield (before the trans failed), but too many bad reviews on RUclips (and from my mechanic).
@stevenfrederickson5002 I would only use Mopar filters and ATF +4 On these transmissions. Refill is 5.5 Quarts but the extra half quart wouldn't really do anything.
Hey what is the transmission issue you were having? Sounds similar to the issue I was having. The transmission sometimes is stuck on 4th gear and only gets fixed when I turn the car off and on.
@vortextricking6849 I wanted to know if you put anything on it before install? Like some new ATF or RTV or (even AXLE GREASE IF YOU CAN BELIEVE ONE GUY SAID)... lol. It looked like you installed it "dry". Thanks for what you do!
Couple errors here...1st, you didn't use a Mopar filter or fluid. 2nd, you did not change the metal seal where the filter slides into the transmission. When using a gasket, you dont torque the pan bolts til they bottom out. It crushes the gasket and can cause leaks. From factory RTV is used to seal the transmission pan, so if your Chrysler had a gasket when you did it, then someone had already changed it previously. The total fill after a pan drop is 5.5 quarts. Where is the magnet?? There is supposed to be a magnet in the pan to catch metal debris.....
@ I have 2 of them and did the pan/filter/fluid at 35k on one and 60k on the other. They are 10 years old and I’m the second owner. For the cost it’s worth it to me. I’ve since sucked and swapped half to a full qt each at every 5k miles. It only adds $10ish to my oil change so not much of a reason not to, plus it lets me keep an eye on it better.
+Does not matter if you care for this transmission or not. They all fail. 62TE just junk. Decades experience. The amount of transmission fluid needed is like reading tea leaves.
Little recommendation for the replacement ATF, measure what you removed. And replace an equal amount. Can't go wrong there. For an added piece of mind, have a shop check the level for you afterward, just in case the filter absorbs a certain amount that's unaccounted for.
There us a way to to DIY checking the ATF level with the oil dipstick, measuring the tip at 45-55 mm at warm temp (lower at cold, forgot how much) thru the fill port. Save the trip to the stealership. Many of "how to" videos on YT on how to do it.
I never comment on videos but this video saved us $3000k plus from a transmission shop. Definitely try this 1st before you take it in to a shop to get taking advantage of!!
Purchased a 2012 T/C with 25K mi. in 2013. Dealer said tranny fluid change at 120K and I said YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING! It is a documented topic, but at 75K I had dealer replace filter and fluid. It was done at 36K as well and I plan on doing it every 50K in line with my goal of taking excellent care of our vehicles. This is our 3rd Chrysler van with having 306K on the previous Dodge GrandCaravan before a wreck took it out. The 3.6 is an excellent motor, but all things need excellent maintenance. Nice video.
I just finished changing the fluid and filter on our 2016 DGC. Took me 3 hours and $99. I did something no one on RUclips had mentioned- clean the bolts. Our van with 86K miles was still factory sealed with silicone, so to prevent any of that coming loose from the bolts, I made sure of of that was removed before re-install of the pan. Thank you for the video. It was one of 3 I studied before tackling the project.
THANK YOU!!! I called a few shops, they said I needed a rebuild for $4400. Found your video that described my issues so decided to give it a shot. Van is now back to normal. Your video made me feel confident to do the repair (I've only ever myself done brakes and oil changes). YOU'RE A LIFESAVER!
You did a good analysis on the clogged filter scenario. Most people don't realize, that hesitation is the filter holding back the transmissions pump, which is trying to suckup fluid to run with. Chrysler uses silicone gasket maker out of factory. That what I'm also gonna use. Not trusting the cork gasket, and not feeling the rubber one either. Those are T25 torx screw, not allen. I feel anyone who performs this job, should apply gasket silicone (even if using a gasket) to insure a good seal, to prevent leaks.
I just picked up a loaded 2011 town and country for $500 sold as is bad trans. Changed the filter and it was good to go.
Wow--- That is great.
I have a '14 T&W. Planning on doing this myself and have been research how to do it. Out of all the mechanic videos I've watch, yours is the best. Your commentary, and basic information is nice and useful. Thank you so very much for an entertaining and informative video!
This was a great tutorial. The only thing i would add is that when you first start the vehicle up after the fluid has been added, you should run the transmission selector in the car through all the gears slowly, stopping at each gear for acouple seconds. You need to give the new fluid time to fill all the appropriate chambers/selinoids before backing it off the ramps. That's why you had that hissing sounds that eventually went away.
Every mechanic shop are no longer about the customer but about how they can rip you off some way, some how. This is why they lose customers by the minute, they still have enough poor souls out there who got no choice but to trust them, like women or elderly or the guy who does not know anything mechanical or do not want to get his hands dirty, so thanks to tutorials like this one there is hope. I am in the start part of process of rebuilding our 2015 Town and Country after my daughter hydro locked engine in a local storm last summer, Mopar lifetime warranty and progressive insurance full cover denied coverage after dealer quote the repair close to 12K, that engine was actually replaced already once when the car had 59000 miles due to a spun bearing, costed me $100.00 at the time, now this time around they just wont cover it, my daughter did not drove intentionally through water, she was caught in a flood so they all told me to total the car, I smiled and replied "sure" that is how I am taking it apart and doing it myself, not my first rodeo rebuilding an engine, my second one so why not? When you say " you can fix that" that is absolutely right!
Bu
In the market to possibly buy one of these minivans. This will be the first thing I will do after bringing it home. Your tutorial is straight forward and very well explained how to do this. Thanks for the info!
You can also get a pan with a drain plug, makes future changes much easier.
Thank Bud! I used to work at Daimler-Chrysler ITP4 plant that was the largest manufacturing facility of your 62TE transmission. This tranny is by far the largest transmission project Chrysler has ever produced. It is a good transmission but only if it is routinely serviced exactly the way you are doing it. There are two things that will kill the 62TE. Heat and contamination,so keep them cool and clean. Use Mopar full synth fluid (don't mess around with these other fluids. put Mopar in...). Reset the TCM each time. If you don't have a scan tool, take the battery leads off and touch them together for 5 minutes and that will do it. These things and just drive cool and don't race the hell out of them. If you live in Az or Tx keep that cooler nice and clean and you can get 400,000 miles out of it like I got in my minivan. It had 416,000 when I sold it and it still ran great!.
Is the Mopar Full Synth Fluid the same as the ATF+4?? If i go to the Chrysler parts counter, what do i ask the guy for? Mopar Full Synth transmission fluid??
Why do you have to Reset the TCM???
I have found it to be good practice after performing any service to a transmission. Over time, the TCM's adaptive learning functions can become corrupted, which can lead to poor shifting, transmission slippage, and other issues. If the tranny feels like it may be slipping after this fluid service, you have eliminated the possibility of it being linked to any learned behaviors. It is my advice and I think it is good to ask 'why' but it is certainly not anything that has to be done.
@@Jeff_Seely I would have to agree with your statements. It's very good practice to do a TCM reset. And i like how you explained that if you don't have a electronic tool to reset the unit, you can do it the "old fashion" way of just touching the cables together. Your advice is very sound and much appreciated. Especially since you built these transmissions when they were new.
@@klwthe3rd Thanks!!! And wanna help if I can.
My mother as had one's from 84, 87, 91, 04,06 and 10 she had Grand Caravans and a couple of Town and county's and I got my first 06 Grand Caravan and we loved them all.
Same they've been amazing
Thanks for sharing and helping others from getting scammed. Good quality video and good job sir! Just FYI, the factory uses rtv for the pan installation and the factory service manual states to use rtv when servicing. Doesn't really matter as a gasket works fine as you've shown. I've done the service twice now on our 2016 t&c with now near 150k, not a single issue with of the transmission. Service is key to keeping any car alive.
Thanks for the feedback
I replaced pan with one with drain bolt. 40 $ ~ then new filter. Cleaned magnet. Measured how much fluid came out and put back in same amount of mopar brand fluid. Around 65k miles. Oh mine is 2015 grand caravan. Then 2yrs/20k miles later, drained and refilled. 90k now and so far no issues.
BIG WARNING - Dodge Grand Caravan SE 2010, 3.3L engine - Although I thank you for this video and for giving me the courage to do this myself, I was mortified at the DIY garage when I realized AFTER dropping the transmission oil pan that my pan + gasket assembly was NOT the same as in your video. Hence, the parts I had ordered did not fit. My pan is about twice the size as the gasket ordered and the filter is made of metal and snaps on without screws. I was extremely lucky that the DIY garage had a deal with a local parts store who delivered the right parts, because if not, I would've been in serious trouble.
You dhould always verify vehicle fitment on parts prior to ordering. Sure they all have a 62TE transmission but they all have different iterations.
Yeah, lesson learned. I just wanted to forewarn other potential DIYers.
Well ideally can you put all your information in of your vehicle and then you'll get the specified parts is that easy
Also take out the oil dipstick and use the opposite side of stick and mark cold at 10mm and hot at 40mm. You can then use that for checking transmission fluid level.
I added 5 quarts to start and checked the fluid over a few days. I used the oil dipstick and basically you dont want to be higher than the letter a in safe from the dipstick. Measure with car on and warm. Ended up adding close to 6 quarts total
Good to know ----thanks
This vehicle should have a magnet in its pan. Between the lack of a magnet and the silicon gasket, it looks like someome replaced this already. Magnet is important to collect the tiny metallic shavings over time..
You are spot on -- we never found a magnet.
Round magnet most important thing for transmission
Put 4 magnets in, 1 in each corner
I don't know why there was no magnet, but 62TEs come from the factory with silicon gaskets. I just did mine today and it was silicon and had never been serviced.
Was there not a cap on the atf+4 oil fill tube? I think its supposed to have a twist on cap. The manual tells you how many "quartz" it takes , maybe it's in liters and that got ya😂 good job, youve got the goice and personality for this, you should have taken over from Bob Barker or pat sajak. Any about changing the plugs on this vehicle or coolant pump ?
How is the transmission going on both yours and your friend's? Interested in knowing. I only use the recommended mopar atf +4 but was wondering about the other brands and how they do. Appreciate any info. Good video
Mine is still working --- over 2 years.
Dec 2024 - a year later? - How's it running? Did the old filter you replaced have any gunk/blockages? Getting ready to do this with my 2010. Thanks.
Thank you for the Video brother, I will try this on my 2013 Chrysler Town and Country. it has a leak that seems to be in the same area, the seals look pretty bad on,
Careful! You might want to research "oil filter housing". Those are at the top of the v on the engine. It is very common for those to leak and drip down the side of the tranny. It looks like a tranny leak but its coming from that part.
You don't have a magnet in your tray. This is an additional “filter” against metal particles and a wear indicator.
My 2018 leaked with gasket after bolts were torqued 12 ft pounds. Drained and cleaned everything and used Mopar RTV. No leak now
You over torqued them that's why it leaked, 7ft lbs only
With all my Chrysler vehicles I always have disconnected the transmission line and put a low pressure from an air compressor in there you can get almost all the fluid out except for one quart!
Nice tip thanks
Hi that's a good video but you missing the magnet transmission pan
did you know there is just as much fluid in the torque converter that is left still in?
Hard to believe you didn't mess up your drive with that drain pan
why did you use new fluid?
Does the cap on the transmission fill screw in or push in?
screw in.
Great job! The only concern I have is there is no magnet in the bottom of that pan. Most Dodge/Chrysler transmissions that are in those Caravans have a circular magnet in the lower side of the pan by the little dimple. I'm wondering if the previous owner changed the filter and took that magnet out and didn't put it back. I'm not entirely sure its needed, just curious not seeing one in there.
You are totally correct I noticed when doing the job there was no magnet --- I should have mention it.
DIYers who only do this every year or two will usually get better results using high quality gaskets (like Fel-Pro) instead of silicon (which takes a bit of talent). Just be sure to torque them correctly.
Did your check engine light come on and if so did you get any codes like p1745?
Why would he get an engine code?
Dorman makes a transmission pan with a drain plug that will help prevent making a mess when changing the fluid and filter
From what I read on reviews, the drain plug leaks unless you replace it with a longer plug.
@jeromemainmanmanne7496 good to know
i have a 2009 chrysler town and country with the 3.8 litre V-6 with the 62TE transmission. a couple of weeks ago it went into limp mode and the check engine light came on and it would not shift anymore into the higher gears. i think its stuck in 2 or 3rd gear. i do not believe it has ever had the fluid changed or the filter. the engine has over 200.000 miles on it. when i disconnect the negative terminal that will take it out of limp mode but for just a few miles then the engine lite comes back on and it is stuck in the lower gears again. i am going to change the trans fluid and filter and hope that works. what do you think ? will it help ? when its out of limp mode it shifts just fine.
I have the same issue DID IT WORK?
How did it work???
?
If you have never changed the transmission fluid after 200k, i would not touch it as most likely the dirt that is keeping your tranny alive,,will let go if the fluid and filter is changed and cause internal damage to the transmission!
I had a similar issue with my’08 caravan and it turned out to be a bad shift solenoid. I had to put in a new solenoid pack (around $250). You can do it yourself, but it’s time consuming.
I had took a car to a trans shop said oh u need a rebuild so took it to another shop they wanted to do more diagnosis they wasn't condemning trans so I decided to put a new battery in car as the car had original bad battery causing trans issues after replacing battery no more issues drove Impala another 29k.Alot of places wanna do a flush when you only want a filter and pan fluid change to get more $$ out of you.
Mechanics are full of 💩
I have a 2015 with 138000 miles. I had just the opposite problem. It was running great until I decided to change the filter and trans fluid for the 1st time. About 2 weeks later it started slipping. Wouldn't go past 40 mph. Cost me $5000 to rebuild the trans, but at least it comes with a 3 year warranty.
What kind of engine do you have.in your 2015 caravan?and what did the transmission shop say.caused your transmission to slip?
What filter and fluid did you use? How much fluid did you add back into it?
@@jasperjenkins3290 Duralast filter and Castrol ATF +4 fluid. It took 6 quarts. I measured the amount that came out and I put back the same. I was told that, if changing the fluid caused the transmission to fail, then it was already on borrowed time. Lesson learned. Change the trans fluid more often next time. Oh well. My rebuilt trans has a 3-year warranty. I had considered getting CarShield (before the trans failed), but too many bad reviews on RUclips (and from my mechanic).
@stevenfrederickson5002 I would only use Mopar filters and ATF +4 On these transmissions. Refill is 5.5 Quarts but the extra half quart wouldn't really do anything.
@@jasperjenkins3290 The brand really shouldn't make a difference. Also, 6 quarts came out, so I put 6 quarts back in.
Hey what is the transmission issue you were having? Sounds similar to the issue I was having.
The transmission sometimes is stuck on 4th gear and only gets fixed when I turn the car off and on.
Didn’t see the magnet? Lost or forgot?
Is this the same for 3.08 motor
Do you mean 3.8? It is the transmission # you want, not just engine size...
Great information ❤
looks like your magnet is missing this is a sign someone else was there before you.
Thanks guys I’m going to change mine
Great --- I hope it solves your problem. I did my Town and Country 2+ years ago and it is still working.
65 dollars in fluid; 30 bucks for the filter and gasket; labor by me and it shifts tighter and is punchier all around. 3200 saved.
Where is the magnet that goes into the pan.
Did you just reinstall that new gasket dry? Is that how this is supposed to be done? Thanks
Good Call --- Yes a new gasket --- alway use a new gasket if you can.
@vortextricking6849 I wanted to know if you put anything on it before install? Like some new ATF or RTV or (even AXLE GREASE IF YOU CAN BELIEVE ONE GUY SAID)... lol. It looked like you installed it "dry". Thanks for what you do!
Where's the magnet 😢 for catching the metal shavings
You are spot on --- that mean that was not the first time that was opened
Couple errors here...1st, you didn't use a Mopar filter or fluid. 2nd, you did not change the metal seal where the filter slides into the transmission. When using a gasket, you dont torque the pan bolts til they bottom out. It crushes the gasket and can cause leaks. From factory RTV is used to seal the transmission pan, so if your Chrysler had a gasket when you did it, then someone had already changed it previously. The total fill after a pan drop is 5.5 quarts. Where is the magnet?? There is supposed to be a magnet in the pan to catch metal debris.....
Did'nt change the seal for the new filter, and did'nt see a magnet.....
What a great video ty
The factory uses silicone on the trans and the oil pan.
Will This Solve My P0731 code on my 2015 Chrysler Town & Country Touring 3.6 v6 flex fuel with 193,800 miles?
Did it fix your car? I have same code on 2019 dodge grand caravan
Beautiful video. 5 stars
60k if you tow or use "commercially", 120k if you just drive light duty.
Mine has 53k on it and I just checked the fluid with my dipstick and it is gross! I am changing it.
@ I have 2 of them and did the pan/filter/fluid at 35k on one and 60k on the other. They are 10 years old and I’m the second owner. For the cost it’s worth it to me.
I’ve since sucked and swapped half to a full qt each at every 5k miles. It only adds $10ish to my oil change so not much of a reason not to, plus it lets me keep an eye on it better.
From the factory it comes with RTV sealant black
Check RUclips on how to put back in the exact amount of fluid using a special dipstick + temperature reading + chart
Thanks for the tip!
nice
Drain this twice or 3 times to get all old fluid out
+Does not matter if you care for this transmission or not. They all fail. 62TE just junk. Decades experience. The amount of transmission fluid needed is like reading tea leaves.
Thanks for the comment --- great to hear from a pro.
Any time
Looks like motor oil (black); not ATF (red).
I MADE IT 163K ON MY 2017 CARAVAN
Silicone on these means it was factory.
what you have changed is dodge caravan not the chrysler ...
Fuckin great, thanks!
Little recommendation for the replacement ATF, measure what you removed. And replace an equal amount. Can't go wrong there. For an added piece of mind, have a shop check the level for you afterward, just in case the filter absorbs a certain amount that's unaccounted for.
There us a way to to DIY checking the ATF level with the oil dipstick, measuring the tip at 45-55 mm at warm temp (lower at cold, forgot how much) thru the fill port. Save the trip to the stealership. Many of "how to" videos on YT on how to do it.