Hey Jeff, I'd love to pick your brain about the 9mm PMAG adapters sometime. Would you be opposed to me printing these in nylon and selling them? maybe work out some type of licensing agreement?
Can o make a recommendation on a better way that’s as easy. Use the radio as a transmitter. Use a watt meter and put a signal in the low 462.xxxx tune to the peak watt output or until it drops off. You done. Switch sides and do the same. Better way than squelch.
@davidnickname4149 I have not. It's a time consuming process that I don't know how to convert into something the average diy-er can do. But I'm still working on methods to harden them that can be done in the average garage.
Hey, have you tested the 9mm mag converter? and is the built in mag ejector robust enough to not break after repeated use? and has it been decently reliable?
@andrewjarrett2769 yes, I tested it quite a bit with multiple uppers and bolt configurations. I've had an ejector break here and there. Shortest use was 2 rounds, longest use is over 1000. Pla was ok, petg a little better, pla+ so far lasts the longest. I'm working on an updated version but I keep getting side tracked. I'll get to it soon though.
@@jeffdill5260 Thanks for the clarification, i only have one pmag and I don't really intend to get more, so would it be fine to just print extra ejector/feedramp inserts in case something goes wrong at the range? Also, would this work for stanags? I'm pretty sure they have different geometry but they do seem fairly similar, just wondering if you think they'll work.
@andrewjarrett2769 I've made different versions for different mags. I had a usgi version, hex, pro mag, and a couple others. The pmag worked the best and wasn't a permanent change. And I would print a couple feedramp/ejector sets just in case. Pla+ printed on the hotter side (200-210) gave me the best results.
Hey Jeff, I'd love to pick your brain about the 9mm PMAG adapters sometime. Would you be opposed to me printing these in nylon and selling them? maybe work out some type of licensing agreement?
Can o make a recommendation on a better way that’s as easy. Use the radio as a transmitter. Use a watt meter and put a signal in the low 462.xxxx tune to the peak watt output or until it drops off. You done. Switch sides and do the same. Better way than squelch.
Hello, did you mske the video showing how to harden the plastic suppressors yet?
@davidnickname4149 I have not. It's a time consuming process that I don't know how to convert into something the average diy-er can do. But I'm still working on methods to harden them that can be done in the average garage.
Hey, have you tested the 9mm mag converter? and is the built in mag ejector robust enough to not break after repeated use? and has it been decently reliable?
@andrewjarrett2769 yes, I tested it quite a bit with multiple uppers and bolt configurations. I've had an ejector break here and there. Shortest use was 2 rounds, longest use is over 1000. Pla was ok, petg a little better, pla+ so far lasts the longest. I'm working on an updated version but I keep getting side tracked. I'll get to it soon though.
@@jeffdill5260 Thanks for the clarification, i only have one pmag and I don't really intend to get more, so would it be fine to just print extra ejector/feedramp inserts in case something goes wrong at the range? Also, would this work for stanags? I'm pretty sure they have different geometry but they do seem fairly similar, just wondering if you think they'll work.
@andrewjarrett2769 I've made different versions for different mags. I had a usgi version, hex, pro mag, and a couple others. The pmag worked the best and wasn't a permanent change.
And I would print a couple feedramp/ejector sets just in case. Pla+ printed on the hotter side (200-210) gave me the best results.
@@jeffdill5260 Thanks so much! I normally print everything in PLA+ so that works out perfectly!