Component to HDMI Adapter Unboxing and Detailed Review
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- This is a detailed review of the Portta component to HDMI adapter/converter scaler. Many legacy devices have component video output that need to be converted to HDMI with an adapter/scaler like the Portta.
I start out unboxing the component to HDMI adapter and then conduct a detailed review and demonstration of the input and output capabilities of the component to HDMI adapter. I test inputs of 480p, 720p, and 1080p with outputs of 720p and 1080p. I also do a demonstration and measurement of latency from the component to HDMI conversion and scaling using an XBOX 360.
The Portta component to HDMI adapter/scaler could be used with game consoles, legacy DVD players, and other devices whose higher quality output is provided by component video connections.
Portta Component to HDMI Adapter/Scaler: links.askdrtk....
Epidemic Sound: www.epidemicso...
Let me know what you think about my review in the comments and don't forget to like and subscribe! at this link: / @askdrtk
Links:
Portta Component to HDMI Converter (w/o scaler): amzn.to/3JYK63K
Portta Component to HDMI Scaler: amzn.to/35sbMz2
Sunnatch Component to HDMI Scaler: amzn.to/3iTS3LA
ODV Component/S-Video/Composite to HDMI Converter: amzn.to/3NDJH8W
mClassic 4K HDMI Upscaler: amzn.to/3tWsNuo
mCable Gaming: amzn.to/3K3EV2I
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(Some links are affiliate links that may provide a small commission to askdrtk without cost to you or influence of my content or opinions. Thanks for clicking! askdrtk is a member of amazon associates and other affiliate programs.) Disclaimer: askdrtk.com/di...
The unit reviewed is Model # N3CVRHS which includes the 720p/1080p scaler function. A number of converters similar to this are available from PORTTA but the majority do not support scaling. The review unit was purchased in 2020 and I have noticed this model come in and out of stock since that time.
While a wide variety of input formats are supported (see list below) it does not support 240p. This will be an issue for older consoles such as PS1, some PS2 titles, as well as many older games (PONG, etc) and computers. If you require 240p, I recommend: Budget - Mcbazel ODV (Original and Gen 2) and either the Retrotink 2x Pro or 5x Pro.
For those interested, the specs for the unit in this review are as follows:
Inputs: RCA Component (YPbPr) video with 2 Channel RCA Audio (LPCM uncompressed)
Input Video Signal: 0.5-1.0 volts p-p
Output Video: HDMI 1.3 (720p / 1080p selectable)
HDCP: 1.2/1.3
Vertical Frequency Range: 50 and 60Hz (PAL and NTSC)
Input Video: 480i / 576i / 480p / 576p / 720p / 1080i / 1080p (Does not support 240p)
Video Bandwidth: 1.65Gbps per channel
Power 5VDC barrel 5.5/2.1 (adapter included - various regions)
Too bad the bitrate in which you encoded is so low I can't tell the differences.
Great video, may want to put portta in the title, I had to dig a bit to find this.
Thanks! I sometimes find it challenging to create a title that is detailed enough without narrowing the topic too much. TubeBuddy is helpful, but sometimes it makes me second guess my title ideas...
@@askdrtk I always feel more detailed is better, unless it’s a shootout. There’s only a few videos on this product and it’s a big seller on amazon. People likely are searching the exact name or something like “Portta Upscaler Review”.
Great video,
Do you know if this converter can scale interlaced (480i or 576i) to processive signal (720p, 1080p)?
Thanks! I have tested it with 480i and the output does register as 720p or 1080p on two of my displays and a capture card (4k60 pro mkii). I don't have anything to test it with 576i (PAL) however the spec sheet indicates that it does support that mode.
I will have another video coming soon with composite to HDMI conversion/scaling (should be about two weeks). Check it out if you have a chance and let me know what you think.
@@askdrtk Thanks for the response! I subbed!
I was also wondering if this works as well on modern PC monitors with HDMI with the 480i signal upscaled.
Thanks again! I tested the input modes (including 480i but not 576i) on a 2020 model HP 24" monitor and experienced no issues. The television output tests looked good as well.
@@askdrtk and the aspect ratio is correct ?
Aspect ratio was correct on my tests. I generally find more issues with composite to HDMI scalers vs component to HDMI.
Great video, thanks. Do you know if this will work with an original Xbox on a 4K tv? Do I really need the scaling? Seems like the version with scaling is not produced anymore, can't find it anywhere.
Thanks! Both the versions with an without scaling will work with the original XBOX. The scaler version has been coming in and out of stock for the past year. The advantage of the scaler version is that it often scales better in terms of latency and image quality vs built-in scaling within televisions - every tv is different. If this model is unavailable, I recommend and also use the Mcbazel ODV amd Sunnatch/Easycell converter/scaler as alternatives. Hope this helps out!
Great video! I was looking into buying the Portta converter. Would you say that the component to HDMI conversion provides 1:1 video quality?
Thanks and great question! The Portta converter handles scaling well and color / saturation perform above its price. Display looks good with XBOX 360, Wii, Gamecube, and DVD sources. 1:1 is difficult to say as it depends on how your display handles both component and HDMI inputs, but in my tests on LG and Sharp TVs as well as through a Yamaha AV receiver, the results are very comparable. Hope this helps out!
@@askdrtk I agree that the colours and saturation are handled well. I just bought one of these and like everything about it, except the sweeping vertical lines that move across the image. I am using the converter with my Wii because I have a monitor only with HDMI ports. Do you have any ideas how I can fix the issue with annoying vertical lines?
I was thinking about cleaning the component cable as it is quite dirty, or buying an official cable however, I doubt it is the cable.
I'm definitely not the only person who has had this vertical lines issue when using this converter with the Wii!
Yes, this is a known issue. While I cannot be certain, I believe the issue has to do with poor internal shielding inside the Wii itself. Cleaning the cable it a good place to start as bad connections can contribute to this issue, but I will say that I have the official cable and do not have problems with the Wii and this converter. Cables often look similar, but internal shielding can be quite different and it is certainly possible that Nintendo was aware of a shielding issue with the Wii and therefore manufactured their cable to overcome the problem. One low-tech way to test this is to hold the cable and move it around while watching the screen, it the line behavior changes, interference is the most likely cause (a poor connection or broken cable will also show up this way, but the picture will likely flicker). Also, in the way I have my consoles, cables, and converters laid out, the Wii is not close to my converters, including the Portta. Sorry I cannot be 100% certain, but I hope this provides a place to start.
@@askdrtk Thanks very much. I reckon you are right about the poor shielding within the Wii itself. I've cleaned all the contacts on my component cable thoroughly which hasn't really made a difference.
I have a LOT of cables near to my Wii, however back when I used cheap Wii2HDMI adapters, these all also had ghosting lines, and there weren't a lot of cables next to the Wii. I see a lot of people with PAL Wiis (like me) tend to have more issues with these ghost lines. I might purchase an official cable and give it a try.
Also noticed that the signal sometimes drops out for a few seconds with this converter, so not sure it's a very reliable option. I might look into more reputable Wii2HDMI converters instead.
I haven't had drop outs with mine, but for the Wii (PS1, PS2, and my vintage PC collection) I use a Mcbazel ODV. It is very similar to a Retrotink 2x Pro, but at a lower cost. I have found it to not only be very reliable but it is also compatible with off-spec signals (works with PS1, older computers, etc...) Here is a link if you want to check it out: mcbazel.com/index.php/product/odv-composite-rca-s-video-ypbpr-to-hdmi-converter/
You should review the GameStop HDMI Component Converter and the GameStop Universal RCA to HDMI Converter. they are from GameStop themselves.
I would have been interested to know what the lag is like with component directly in compared to the scaler, since they should be comparable like you said
I have tested the lag with the 360 directly into the component inputs on my LG flat panel and it is longer than through the scaler as most tv's (and definitely mine) have really terrible internal upscaling of component and composite. The direct lag was nearly 50ms longer vs using the portta, but all sets are different. My older test crt has virtually non-existent internal lag (i measured the 360 lag on it a while ago at around 110ms, which means the crt was only about 10ms accounting for the lag of the 360 and wireless controller), but unfortunately it died. I'm going to pick up another for comparisons when I can find the one I want...
@@askdrtk oh good to know, thanks for the update
hi, i have this converter along with the easycel one, the portta one displays these diagonal ghost lines when i use it on my wii, i dont know if this is the converter or the component cables that is causing the problem.
Ghost lines are generally caused by interference or ground loops. Poorly shielded cables can also be the issue. Do you have a lot of cables all running near to each other? It can sometimes help if you try to route the power cables away from the component cable. If it is a Wii only issue and other devices display correctly through the Portta, it may be worth to try another cable or to place a ferrite core around each power cable (Wii, Portta, TV).
Thanks ! It was helpful
Ehi nice video! What do you think is better, Portta or Sunmatch? Thanks for replying
Thanks! Having used both for some time I find them to be about equal in terms of performance and reliability. The Sunnatch has more selectable output modes that are useful if your TV's or monitors are not all 16x9 and can also help if you have any vintage PC's you would like to connect, otherwise both are a great value. Hope this helps out!
Thanks for the video. I'm not a gamer, so purchased a new 65" LG Smart TV, (...of course, with no Component fixtures on the back), to connect to my 7:1 Home Theatre system. Will plugging in the Audio/Video Component wires for the Receiver, and then plugging in the HDMI into the back of the TV, allow me to put the sound through my 7:1 system?
Yes.
Do you know any cheap ypbpr to hdmi converter that supports 240p input signal?
Thanks, drtk. This is helpful. This doesn't Porta component doesn't appear to come with a power cable. What type do I need for this. I am connecting a legacy VCR/DVD player
All good - It does come with a power adapter that includes a thread lock to make sure it doesn’t slip out of the converter. The power adapter is 5V and 2.0 A and the converter maximum current draw is 1.5A.
Your VCR/DVD combo is a great use for this converter/scaler. Hope this helps out and thanks for checking out my review!
Might as well share my notes for model N3CVTRH from 2014 (according to Amazon Canada).
* three RCA component inputs - front left; red-white R-L
** 50 or 60 Hz
** 480p, 576p, 720p, 1080p
** 480i, 576i, 1080i
** 0.5-1.0 V p-p
* two RCA audio inputs - front right; green-blue-red Y-Pb-Pr
* HDMI output - back middle
** HDMI 1.3
** HDCP 1.2/1.3
** 5 Gb/s or 4.95 Gb/s
** 24-36 bit colour depth _[unclear]_
** 165 MHz / 1.65 Gbps per component channel
** low delay
** uncompressed 2-channel LPCM
* 5 VDC power with small barrel connector - back left (front view)
** maximum 5 W
* two indicator LEDs - top left
** power
** signal
* 9 × 6 × 2 cm LWH
Note that the 165 MHz / 1.65 Gbps line implies 10-bit colour depth at the fastest supported data rate.
I have a question. Have you ever encountered sound issues using a component to hdmi converter?
I'm attempting to capture/stream original xbox with an elgato hd 60 s. I'm using the original Xbox high def av pack through a component to hdmi converter, then feeding through to the elgato.
I get funky audio whenever I boot it (same with Wii). Unlike Wii, some games, the audio is fine, but I more often than not get this awful echo audio.
If you have any idea why this is, help please?
Great question! I have heard of a number of intermittent audio issues when using Retrotink 2x pro's with Elgato hd60's and 4k60 pro's. The first thing I would do is try another capture card (or a TV) to see if I get the same audio issues. This can provide some clues about the HDMI audio output from the component to HDMI converter...
Since converting analogue audio to HDMI audio is done by an A to D converter in your component to HDMI converter, the A to D converter outputs the audio with a specific sample rate. HDMI audio in general supports a wide range of bit depths and sample rates, but issues arise when a device either doesn't support all specs or is slightly off-spec. This used to happen alot with composite video where slightly off-spec signals caused poor picture quality on certain displays. While I am not aware of anyone verifying the sample rate specs (test equipment required) on either the Retrotink or Elgato cards, I suspect sample rate being off-spec is the issue as this will definitely cause audio artifacts including echo (we often deal with this in pro recording gear). I believe this may be why Retrotink does not recommend their devices for use with Elgato capture cards...
I'm not sure if you are using a Retrotink 2x pro, but these same issues can happen with other converters / capture cards. On I side note, I haven't experienced this with either the Portta converter in this review or the Sunnatch converter I reviewed a while ago using a number of capture cards including Elgato's. Hope this helps out. If you let me know what converter you are using I may be able to look into this a bit further.
My TV is already HD and I would like to get component to HDMI because the monitor only has 1 HD input. Does this work?
Thanks for the question and I hope this helps out.
This converter will allow you to connect a device with component outputs to the HDMI input on your monitor, but it will not add an additional input to your monitor. If you would like to add extra HDMI inputs to your monitor so that ou can connect several sources (PC, DVD/BluRay, PS4, etc.), I would suggest using an HDMI switch like the TESmart 4x1 HDMI switch I reviewed in this video: ruclips.net/video/pe-Ck_E46LY/видео.html
What kind of DC connector is the converter using? Eyeballing it, I guess it's either 4,0x1,7 or 3,5x1,7 but would be nice to know for sure. Since I got it from US Amazon, but I will need something with EU plug(And preferably of higher quality since multiple reviews complain the one given by Portta is kinda flimsy and often DOA XD) to use it myself once it arrives XD
Great question! The connector is a 5.5/2.1 - Hope this helps out!
@@askdrtk Thank you very much! I was trying to find that out for past few days, but nobody seemed to know the answer XD
It worked with my PS2 on a regular TV, however it did not work with my Samsung curved gaming monitor... I tried everything including having the right setting on the PS2 side.
Anything you suggest I try, or is it just not compatible with some monitors?
On some of the Samsung monitors (ultrawide in particular but also on some others) there is a menu option for PC/AV mode. If you have this option, try setting it to AV. Let me know if this helps out.
@@askdrtk I found the PC/AV mode, but unfortunately it didn’t work... I tried all the different combinations of settings too. I want to try the “ PS2 to HDMI” converter but I’m afraid I’ll get the same result :/
It is difficult to say if the PS2 to HDMI will behave differently with your monitor, but it could be that the combination of the Portta and your monitor just aren't compatible. Another converter that I have found to be very compatible not only with displays but particularly with the PS2 (even for older 240p games) is the Mcbazel ODV. It is very similar to a Retrotink 2x Pro, but at a lower price.
PS3 has broken hdmi ,will this be a solution to bypassing doing surgery on it replacing the hdmi ?
Yes, connecting your component cable from the PS3 to this converter will give you HDMI and you can continue to use the 1080p display setting on the PS3. The difference is that the PS3 audio output with component is stereo, so some of the surround sound features introduced over HDMI on the PS3 will not be available. Hope this helps out!
Hello. I wanted to ask you if it is compatible with Windows 10 and OBS Studio?
While the converter doesn't connect directly to the PC, the HDMI output is compatible with both Windows 10 and OBS Studio. I have tested it with multiple capture cards (4k60 pro, Cam Link Pro, Cam Link 4k, and at least 10 other usb capture cards from various manufacturers) for both recording and streaming using OBS Studio in Windows 10. All worked without issues. Thanks for the question and I hope this helps out!
not only for monitor but we also want this too record wit hthe capture cards of today 2022 i got one too record my xbox 360 my is one of the original 20 gb models wit hthe silver dvd tray so i enjoy it not bad this one converter
I have found some converters to not work well with capture cards, but I have to say the Portta works with a few of my Elgato, AVerMedia, and even a few generic capture cards. There are converter/scalers with superior deinterlacing and color accuracy, but for capture card compatibility, the Portta works very well in my experience.
This review not entirely clear about the model reviewed (naive given known save-a-buck redesign churn in this sector). On Amazon Canada, the current model is N3CVTRH from 2014. The reviewed unit here seems much the same, but the current model most definitely _does NOT_ contain a scaler function. Scaling is left to the television, and compatibility depends on whether your video source and your television have an output/input mode combination that overlaps. If the reviewed unit contains a scaler, then most likely it is based on entirely different silicon, and output quality and performance would be an entirely different kettle of wax.
The video source will be PAL or NTSC at 50 or 60 Hz with a certain horizontal frequency and dot clock. I guess it's the number of scan lines generated per vertical frame that determines the video mode, since there's no scaling in this device. Interlacing is likely also dictated by the source, perhaps inferred from the line count. Wikipedia says that some devices, even when switched to component outputs, won't necessarily default to progressive. If your device is outputting 720i, and you don't know it, you'd be SOL.
Is the lack of 720i because the line count is ambiguous with some other interpretation? What other reason could they have to leave that out?
Edit: I haven't thought much about analog video since the 1980s, and I had to get my thoughts reorganized. I was mostly right, then mostly wrong, and now maybe mostly right again. Who knows?
The review unit is model # N3CVRHS (purchased from Amazon in 2020) which does include scaling to 720p/1080p with the switch located on the rear of the unit. PORTTA has been selling various models with and without scaling for some time. I have seen this model come in and out of stock since 2020.
While this converter / scaler offers good performance for the price, as with many inexpensive converters, it lacks support for 240p. This eliminates PS1, early PS2 titles, as well as many other early consoles and computers with off-spec video output (VIC-20, C64, Apple II, etc). I pinned a comment with specs for the review unit in the event it comes back in stock.
Hi it seems that if i connect my original Xbox with component cables (that are tested) i have noticeable diagonal lines. Is this because it’s a cheap device or do i happen to have a faulty product?
The only issue I have had with diagonal lines ended up being aftermarket component cables on the Wii (the Wii has terrible RF shielding). Check your cable routing first (away for any sources of interference such as power adapters), but t could be a faulty converter...
@@askdrtk i tested my component cable on the retrotink x5 that a friend of my has, and they work perfectly. No diagonal lines
Sounds like a defective converter then...
Just got one a couple month ago and I have the same issue.
I bought this hoping to use it with my n64 and Wii to use at a house where the tv doesn’t have a component option only hdmi. But testing it on my personal tv that does have both options (hdmi ports and component port). The sound comes through and the video does as well technically but I can only in black and white. I haven’t been able to get color with the N64 or Wii.
Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this or what I’m doing wrong?
I have a couple of thoughts on this. For the Wii, ensure output is set to 480p as the scaler will not accept 240p, 480i, or 576 I. This needs to been done after connecting to the tv and note that some Wii games will not support progressive scan. I have also heard of issues with some component cables (particularly 3rd party) being hit and miss from device to device.
What method (mod) are you using for component on the N64? As the N64 outputs 240p for most games, the scaler will not read this properly. Some mods line double to 480p and should work with the scaler.
Thanks for the question and for watching!
@@askdrtk So it turns out that I’m using composite cables for both systems. I first looked into figuring out if my Wii was in 480i or not (it is) and It won’t let me change it to 480p. This new Wii I have came with a 3rd party cable so that could also be part of it too?
For the N64 I believe it’s just the original composite (Red, white, and yellow) cable. So I’m not entirely sure.
Would I need to look into different cables for both of these systems if I wanted to use the hdmi adapter? Or instead consider an actual hdmi cord option rather than an adapter for the individual consoles?
The Portta is a component only converter, composite is a different standard. The advantage of using component vs composite comes down to better picture quality.
There are a few routes you can take:
1. Since you already have composite cables for both, you could pick up a Retrotink 2x or even a 5x which will upscale and give you hdmi output. This is imo about the best quality you will get when starting with composite video.
2. You can pick up an HD Retrovision component cable for the Wii. This will work with the Portta and now you have the option to use your Wii with component, HDMI, or composite (since you also have that cable. For the N64, you could get an HDMI converter cable (there are a few with great reviews on Amazon however I have not tested any yet). This way you would have both HDMI and composite for the N64.
3. You could mod your N64 for RGB (component) output. There are a number of kits available and this would give you component, HDMI (through the Portta), and composite as output options for the N64,
Hope these ideas help out.
I got one two month ago and there’s horrible diagonal lines going through the entire screen as well as horrible distortion and artifacting
Thanks for the current update. I have heard a number of issues with quality control in the past year.
Is this compatible with the elgato hd60 capture card?
Yes, tested and working on HD60, HD60S, HD60X, 4K60pro, Cam Link 4k, and Cam Link Pro.
Do you know where you can purchase the version of this with the scaler? I can only find the normal model without scaling.
Looks like it is out of stock on amazon.com right now and they are redirecting to the model without the scaler.
I see the scaler model is available on amazon.ca at this link: www.amazon.ca/Portta-Component-Converter-Scaler-support/dp/B00ATNIFPA?th=1
If you can't get this one, the Sunnatch converter / scaler I reviewed is also a great choice.
@@askdrtk Thank you! Do you know if the Sunnatch will work well with PS2 games? (not intending to play PS1 at all)
Both work well with the ps2 with the exception of 240p games (all ps1 and a few ps2). For 240p you will need a retrotink, ossc, or other device setup for 240p input over component. If you aren't worried about ps1, both the portta and sunnatch are a good bet.
Do you recommend this for ps2 on a 4k TV?
For the PS2 I prefer the Mcbazel ODV (nearly identical in performance to a Retrotink 2x pro). The ODV supports 240p which comes in handy with the PS2, especially if you have any older / PS1 games. Hope this helps out!
Hola esto me sirve para conectar la ps4 a mi tv tubo con entrada componentes osea sería un conversar de hdmi a ypbpr me entiendes se puede hacer eso?
Hola - this converts component to HDMI whereas you need HDMI converted to component. Portta makes one that will allow you to connect your ps4 HDMI to your TV component inputs. I have not done a full review on it yet, but I do have one and my general impression is that it performs well. Here is a link: links.askdrtk.com/portta-hdmi-to-component Thanks for the question and for watching!
@@askdrtk gracias lamentablemente acá en argentina ni lo venden a ese convertidor portta sólo se consigue el de hdmi a av rca que da calidad de imagen media mala
The Portta USA store shows they will ship to Argentina. Here is a link: links.askdrtk.com/porrta-hdmitocomponent-direct
Would this work well with an original xbox with xbox HD av pack?
Yes, the original HD AV pack provides an excellent quality 480p signal which the Portta will upscale to 720p or 1080p.
@@askdrtk What about 480i?
480i deinterlacing and upscaling is also very good.
Great it's out of stock.
What other product do you recommend?
Wouldn't you know it...
The Sunnatch amzn.to/3MJwCcU (also sold under the Easycel brand) performs very well. I have one in my setup and have been using it for a long time. I also reviewed it here: ruclips.net/video/d4Cqox5dtIQ/видео.html
A man of culture I see, using a 360 in a seriously cool gaming setup like that. Oh but I have the version without the scaling.
I actually bought this over a month ago because of this video and other reviews. Dead To Rights, Halo CE, and Bloodrayne look so crisp on my Original Xbox. It's definitely a bargain for 20$ which is what I paid and the current price I believe.
Edit: Make sure you have good component cables though. I use 10$ cables ATM but will probably upgrade to the pound in due time.
Thanks for weighing in on the Original Xbox. I have a few different converters and this one performs far above its price... I play on a few consoles in addition to PC, but there still is something special about a few of my favorites on original hardware...360 has some gems...
@@askdrtk There are most definitely some gems. I Am Alive was a great Xbox Live Arcade game along with State Of Decay.
I can still spend hours playing The Dragon Knight Saga...
this portta does not work for playstation one
Yes, the PS1 video is off spec and many scalers, including my Retrotink 2x pro struggle with it. So far the best scaler I have found for PS1 is the Mcbazel ODV. It accepts RCA composite, S-Video, and component input, handles off spec signals (including 240p) very well, and it solves the issue of games that switch between 240p and 480i (most often talked about on PS2). The ODV is about the only converter I recommend for PS1 so far. After all these years, I still enjoy a quite a few titles on original PS1 hardware!
This doesn't work on my PS2 ,bro. I also don't have an option or switch for changing from 1080p to 480p.
I have tested my PS2 (SCPH-50001 fat model) working with a few exceptions - some older titles and PS1 games that only support 240p will not work with this scaler. I have my system configuration set to component YCb/Pb Cr/Pr and screen size 16:9. Pressing the X and Triangle buttons at the same time generally allow you to enter progressive scan mode. Some of the slim models (especially the 9000x) tend to have more compatibility issues than others. If you absolutely cannot get the component video to output through the Portta converter and you have tested the component cables as working on another display, other than the Retrotink 2x or 5x, I recommend the Mcbazel ODV as it supports all video modes from the PS2 including older PS1 and those PS2 games that only run in 240p regardless of your console settings. Hope this helps out.
I think i should press triangle and square for some time, really want to play resident evil 4 at good graphics. It would be nice if you help me. 😭😭🙏
By the way I use a slim version, please help,it cost 34 dollars.
Resident Evil 4 supports 480p output via component cable which is supported by the Portta converter. To access 480p output from your PS2 for Resident Evil 4, hold triangle and square at the same time while the game is booting up to access the progressive scan menu.
Thank you man, it worked ❤️❤️❤️
bought this and it outputs zero sound
Not sure which source / console you were trying. I tested a number of sources and found no audio issues.
I apologize if these recommendations are too basic and you have already tried them, but to troubleshoot something like this I generally take two approaches. First, I would connect the source that didn't produce audio to another device (powered speakers, receiver, etc.) to check for sound output, and then I would connect a known working source (any will do...phone, old school cd, tape, etc.) to the scaler. Analogue audio signals are generally very compatible across devices. I've even had bad cables give me plenty of grief! (Of course it is always possible you received a defective scaler - unfortunate.)
Thanks for watching and let me know how things go.
👍👊