There’s a pull ring to keep the seal behind the inner plastic plunger. This stuff goes bad in two years, so they do everything they can to keep it from curing on the shelf.
It worked great on my Toyota Solara convertible glass. An auto glass shop, and and two upholstery shops told me they wouldn't do it, and that it wouldn't work. They said that the glass would pop out from the tension because the top shrinks some. I just retracted the top partway and kept tension off while the adhesive dried. I used suck-n-clamps to hold the glass. I didn't heat the adhesive up to 140 degrees first, so I don't know if it would have been better. I'll probably do it a bit differently if I have to do it again. I have some ideas.
@@mememuhsheen202 a lot of this is new to me, well maybe not new but I've never heated up windshield urethane, Dow, Dupont, or 3m mostly what we used maybe one other but we never heated it. Hardly ever used primer either, we had the little containers of primer similar to the can that pipe glue comes in with the little application thing attached to the bottom of the lid but used it very seldom, just wiped clean with wax and grease remover or some reducer or laquer thinner and laid it on, there was many times we would crack a windshield and it would have to come back out and if it sticks any better being heated and primed I don't want no part of it. We tried to pull one right back out once it was laid in but it just makes a mess and it's better to wait till the next day and cut it back out. That stuff sticks to everything like it's welded. We always had a couple rolls of shop towels and cans of WD-40 to clean up with because that stuff gets everywhere and once it sets up it has to wear off. WD-40 is great to get it off paint before it starts to set. I'd like to see a test with heated vs non-heated and primed vs non-primed on bare metal to see how many lbs of pressure it took to pull it off or rather break because it's really tough, without the assistance of a razor blade while your pulling, air tools or a hot knife you can't get it off.
why ? when you have a old truck and break a piece of glass why the hell would we pay to have it repaired when we can just patch it up ? Are you stupid ? Do you hate your money?
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worked like a charm, thanks Brad!!!
You're welcome!
Does the bottom seal need to be pulled away? There is a pull ring on the bottom?
no
There’s a pull ring to keep the seal behind the inner plastic plunger. This stuff goes bad in two years, so they do everything they can to keep it from curing on the shelf.
Can I use this for bonding my rear glass to a convertible top?
Yes you can!
It worked great on my Toyota Solara convertible glass. An auto glass shop, and and two upholstery shops told me they wouldn't do it, and that it wouldn't work. They said that the glass would pop out from the tension because the top shrinks some. I just retracted the top partway and kept tension off while the adhesive dried. I used suck-n-clamps to hold the glass. I didn't heat the adhesive up to 140 degrees first, so I don't know if it would have been better. I'll probably do it a bit differently if I have to do it again. I have some ideas.
@@mememuhsheen202 a lot of this is new to me, well maybe not new but I've never heated up windshield urethane, Dow, Dupont, or 3m mostly what we used maybe one other but we never heated it. Hardly ever used primer either, we had the little containers of primer similar to the can that pipe glue comes in with the little application thing attached to the bottom of the lid but used it very seldom, just wiped clean with wax and grease remover or some reducer or laquer thinner and laid it on, there was many times we would crack a windshield and it would have to come back out and if it sticks any better being heated and primed I don't want no part of it. We tried to pull one right back out once it was laid in but it just makes a mess and it's better to wait till the next day and cut it back out. That stuff sticks to everything like it's welded. We always had a couple rolls of shop towels and cans of WD-40 to clean up with because that stuff gets everywhere and once it sets up it has to wear off. WD-40 is great to get it off paint before it starts to set. I'd like to see a test with heated vs non-heated and primed vs non-primed on bare metal to see how many lbs of pressure it took to pull it off or rather break because it's really tough, without the assistance of a razor blade while your pulling, air tools or a hot knife you can't get it off.
thanks for the info
Does the caulk gun work or really hard?
We heat it so it works easier watch video.
Thank you
Once used on one glass would the tube be good to use again on another day?
yes with in 5 days
428/418 lasts a few days.
Lastly standard caulk gun works with it ?????
Not sure what product you're referring to. Most handheld caulk guns need to have slight modification to accommodate the large tip check before you use
Probably wondering if it’s not too thick to use manual powered caulk gun
You need a 26:1 caulk gun. Probably not gonna find it in stores.
Can I use this with lexan windows? Thanks.
Do not use lexa on is very dangerous
@@autoglassamericaWhy??
Is the primer the same for a single panel window
Yes but you may need 2 tubes of urethane
So metal to urethane is ok ????
if the metal is bare it needs to be primed
Is primers required on stainless steel rims? @@autoglassamerica
Holy fucking shit feel bad for the people watching this shit.
why ? when you have a old truck and break a piece of glass why the hell would we pay to have it repaired when we can just patch it up ? Are you stupid ? Do you hate your money?