There's many useful videos focused on making a wood bow. For a board bow, few that reeeally focus on the all important beginning issue . . . board selection. Thank so much for taking time to focus on this all-important subject.
good greetings sir.just when you thought you qualified as a bowyer,the teacher called you back and said,🤥YOU NEED TO COMPLETE ANOTHER IMPORTANT COURSE BUDDY.so wellcome to the lesson on boared reading.thank you sir of all utube explanations on selecting the correct wood,your was no 1🙂
Solid smart advice,I used make laminated longbows with 1 piece of oak split 3 times. Then I reversed the waves .It seemed to work just fine. Yin over Yang & then back to Yin again. I have hibernated too long. Thanks again for sharing .
@@fishinbite I’ve used as thin as 1/4” and got a 40#@28” bamboo backed Ipe. But I stick to no thinner than 3/8” for most builds with backings, 1/2” will make a great self bow w/glued on riser block.
Thank for such an excellent video. Th trouble with amateurs like myself getting into bow making is missing important details at the start of the project.
The second part of this video where you talk about cutting away to get the straight lines needed no matter what the from the store cut was great to see... the first park left me with some questions... you showed the end grain of the plain sawn, quartersawn, and the bias versions... are you saying that all three of these COULD be good for bow making... but it depends more on the grain lines on the other sides more than this end grain pattern? (that the end grain pattern does not matter as much as long as there is good late growth is good and the side and top grain lines are straight with no runoff?)
Sorry I wasn’t clear on the ring orientation segment, but yes any of them will make a great bow so long as there is uninterrupted growth rings present from end to end of the board. The quarter sawn piece is the hardest to read, that’s why I took the Osage example into the sunlight to augment the presence of end grain in the face of that board - which is a problem. Otherwise, straight grain lines are the ticket. I don’t really pay that close of attention to the ratio of late/early growth unless it’s grossly in favor of early growth.
Hey great resource you've put out here! I just want a bit more clarification on hickory exactly how much violation it can accommodate. Everyone says it can handle a bit, but how much isn't very well defined. Especially for edge/side grain. Maybe some examples (or a quick pencil sketch) of what is acceptable and what isn't, along with what design limitations we're faced with for both, would be good for a future short video. Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to watch! Your question doesn’t have at very clear answer… It’s one of those experience things where you know it when you see it, but here are a few good rules: 1) So long as I have an uninterrupted growth ring through the length of the working limb even if it travels from back to belly (of the limb thickness- not the board thickness) I’ll give it a go. 2) Extreme run-off in any wood is a bad deal, but I’ll allow it in small doses in hickory - maybe 3-5 rings spread out across the length of each limb depending on the length of the bow. 3) Slightly wavy grain as seen from the back or belly surface is ok as long as it doesn’t exceed the violation rate in the previous statement, but I don’t tolerate waves in the grain as observed from the side of the limb unless the condition in the first statement holds true. Basically, if it’s any other wood, and you’re on the fence about backing it to make sure it doesn’t blow, Hickory would probably deliver an un-backed self bow Hope this helps… I’ll look at putting together a video that explores the subject a little deeper with some examples.
I've mostly used staves I'm kinda new to boards. And I only have access to lowes lumber and menards. So just 1x2, 1x4 and 1x6 if I chase a ring there isn't much left of the wood to make a bow. How do get past this. If the grain is kinda straight do I just make the bow without chasing the ring and back the bow?
@@jeffchapman678 in a lot of cases, you don’t even need to back it. Think of it as a de-crowned stave. You just have to keep the grain reasonably oriented from tip to tip. If you’re building a stiff gripped bow then it only has to be straight grained through the working portions of the limbs which opens up even more opportunities.
I'm glad i ran across this .. i have a 72 inch orange osage that i ordered and was dismayed when i saw it was 1/4 sawn...that stopped my bowmaking for over a year now ,however i've started again with some other wood I've acquired..... but my question is can that `1/4 sawn board be used safely with a backing...I thought about cutting it to make risers but the plan was to make a longbow...
Some woods are tougher than others but if you get it into good light and really study the woods fibers, you’ll be able to eliminate the really bad pieces. And with Ipe in particular, you’re very likely backing it with something else, so it doesn’t have to be self-bow quality of grain - but straighter is better.
Best explanation of grain in relation to board bows I've seen yet. Thank you sir!
Thank you for watching!!!
There's many useful videos focused on making a wood bow. For a board bow, few that reeeally focus on the all important beginning issue . . . board selection. Thank so much for taking time to focus on this all-important subject.
Thank you for your support Michael!
By far the best explaination on board selection that I have seen! Thanks for taking the time and going beyond, "Just pick straight grain..."
Thanks for watching!!! Board selection deserves a lot of attention - it truly is the primary determining factor in success!
good greetings sir.just when you thought you qualified as a bowyer,the teacher called you back and said,🤥YOU NEED TO COMPLETE ANOTHER IMPORTANT COURSE BUDDY.so wellcome to the lesson on boared reading.thank you sir of all utube explanations on selecting the correct wood,your was no 1🙂
Solid smart advice,I used make laminated longbows with 1 piece of oak split 3 times. Then I reversed the waves .It seemed to work just fine. Yin over Yang & then back to Yin again. I have hibernated too long. Thanks again for sharing .
Time to get building again..!
As always, thank you!
I am envious of your logic… subscribed!!!
Thank you!!! Hope you enjoy the experience!!!
Great explanation thanks! What is the minimum thickness of a board to be used for bow-making before shaping?
@@fishinbite I’ve used as thin as 1/4” and got a 40#@28” bamboo backed Ipe. But I stick to no thinner than 3/8” for most builds with backings, 1/2” will make a great self bow w/glued on riser block.
@@meadowlarkadventuregear great thanks!
Thank for such an excellent video. Th trouble with amateurs like myself getting into bow making is missing important details at the start of the project.
Thank you for watching! And yes, this is usually the part where the bow fails and new bowyer doesn’t even realize it’s coming!
The second part of this video where you talk about cutting away to get the straight lines needed no matter what the from the store cut was great to see... the first park left me with some questions... you showed the end grain of the plain sawn, quartersawn, and the bias versions... are you saying that all three of these COULD be good for bow making... but it depends more on the grain lines on the other sides more than this end grain pattern? (that the end grain pattern does not matter as much as long as there is good late growth is good and the side and top grain lines are straight with no runoff?)
Sorry I wasn’t clear on the ring orientation segment, but yes any of them will make a great bow so long as there is uninterrupted growth rings present from end to end of the board. The quarter sawn piece is the hardest to read, that’s why I took the Osage example into the sunlight to augment the presence of end grain in the face of that board - which is a problem. Otherwise, straight grain lines are the ticket. I don’t really pay that close of attention to the ratio of late/early growth unless it’s grossly in favor of early growth.
Yes, all 3 can make a bow. Dependent on the story other 2 surfaces tell ya. Good luck.
Hey great resource you've put out here! I just want a bit more clarification on hickory exactly how much violation it can accommodate. Everyone says it can handle a bit, but how much isn't very well defined. Especially for edge/side grain. Maybe some examples (or a quick pencil sketch) of what is acceptable and what isn't, along with what design limitations we're faced with for both, would be good for a future short video.
Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to watch! Your question doesn’t have at very clear answer… It’s one of those experience things where you know it when you see it, but here are a few good rules:
1) So long as I have an uninterrupted growth ring through the length of the working limb even if it travels from back to belly (of the limb thickness- not the board thickness) I’ll give it a go.
2) Extreme run-off in any wood is a bad deal, but I’ll allow it in small doses in hickory - maybe 3-5 rings spread out across the length of each limb depending on the length of the bow.
3) Slightly wavy grain as seen from the back or belly surface is ok as long as it doesn’t exceed the violation rate in the previous statement, but I don’t tolerate waves in the grain as observed from the side of the limb unless the condition in the first statement holds true.
Basically, if it’s any other wood, and you’re on the fence about backing it to make sure it doesn’t blow, Hickory would probably deliver an un-backed self bow
Hope this helps… I’ll look at putting together a video that explores the subject a little deeper with some examples.
Excellent video, very helpful, thank you for sharing
Thank you for watching!!!
I've mostly used staves I'm kinda new to boards. And I only have access to lowes lumber and menards. So just 1x2, 1x4 and 1x6 if I chase a ring there isn't much left of the wood to make a bow. How do get past this. If the grain is kinda straight do I just make the bow without chasing the ring and back the bow?
@@jeffchapman678 in a lot of cases, you don’t even need to back it. Think of it as a de-crowned stave. You just have to keep the grain reasonably oriented from tip to tip. If you’re building a stiff gripped bow then it only has to be straight grained through the working portions of the limbs which opens up even more opportunities.
I'm glad i ran across this .. i have a 72 inch orange osage that i ordered and was dismayed when i saw it was 1/4 sawn...that stopped my bowmaking for over a year now ,however i've started again with some other wood I've acquired.....
but my question is can that `1/4 sawn board be used safely with a backing...I thought about cutting it to make risers but the plan was to make a longbow...
Absolutely yes!!! Either bamboo or hickory as a back, and it will make a phenomenal bow!
By the way, I offer both backings on my website: meadowlarkag.com give it a visit!
@@meadowlarkadventuregear thanks I'll go check it out..
Very helpful. Thanks!
That’s my goal! Thanks for watching!!!
How about Ipe board tight grain, its hard to see the grain.
Some woods are tougher than others but if you get it into good light and really study the woods fibers, you’ll be able to eliminate the really bad pieces. And with Ipe in particular, you’re very likely backing it with something else, so it doesn’t have to be self-bow quality of grain - but straighter is better.