I do appreciate the content. But I recommend considering the following when doing this job: No need to mark the bearing retainer nut. You snug that up and then measure the preload setting by pulling on a lug nut in the horizontal direction. You can use a fish scale, or "feel" if you've done it several times. A new bearing will require more lbs of force compared to a re-used bearing. Also, to remove ball joints, strike the cast iron spindle....not the nut on the bolt. You can use the pickle fork, but you'd better be prepared to replace the ball joint or at least the boot when you do. Just don't want others potentially damaging their components...But I guess how you did it works too! Well done.
So first off great video!! Just a few tips for anyone who does this use a jack under the lower a arm to adjust the ball joint angle and you don’t even have to touch the ball joint or shock it came apart perfect and you don’t nuke the ball joint seal the outward most ball joint bolts are a bit of a pain but it comes apart like butter thanks for this video it really helped I just found a easier way great video tho!!
Good video, thanks! Helped with rotor change. I can say when you get to the Phillip head screws use a hammer with the screw driver. Just keep tapping the screw driver while you apply pressure. Thanks for the tips.
I gotta do this to my 02 Trooper. The shop down the street was going to charge me $1,000+ said it would take all day. Fuckers. My buddy's a mechanic and gonna give me a hand. Thanks for the video. Glad to see your shop manager Cat was there to supervise. lolz
I just discovered both outer boots are cracked in two. Found it because I got under to look at the exhaust pipe that broke loose of the flange where it bolts to the header. Stainless steel, I will have to have it removed, flange welded back onto the pipe, and re bolted on. Should I replace all four boots? Seems prudent. I'm planning to hire it done, since I don't have all the tools, patience or familiarity with tearing this stuff apart and then re-torquing things. ----------------------------------------- Right now I can't drive the '98 trooper far, since the exhaust pipe is held up against the flange with thin steel utility wire. Scared the crap outa me when it broke free. I was doing 65 on a north Idaho highway. Thought the engine had just exploded and I was in a world of hurt. Only had to drive it carefully to a small town where I could buy the wire and Gerry Rig it to make it far less noisy. Drove it another 300-400 miles home like that, sounding like a big diesel pickup when I'd get on it. Now THOSE nuts are ON there. I tried to break them loose to get the flange off, but saw I was going to wreck the bolt hexes, so stopped and decided to hire that done. Sometimes it's a B---- when old vehicles start to wear out. The flange failed, though, because one of the three bolts was not on its stud, and that was what started the pipe/flange weakening at the perimeter weld. 17mm nuts. 18" extension required.
The CV shaft just pops out of the front gear case with a prybar, once you have the cv out of the hub assembly just reach in there with a prybar and gently pry against the case and inner cv and it comes right out. Its just held in there with a spring C clip. Most CV shafts are like that. Find a pic of the CV shaft assembly and look at the inner spline. Much easier to deal with them boot clamps when the whole shaft is sitting on the bench. My 2 cents
This was kind of helpful but for anyone watching. You dont need to loosen the second set of 6 bolts. They are for the rotor and unless youre also replacing that move along to the next step.
you need a new brake caliper or clean it and give it a new paint job on it have lot of surface rust on it. my one looks brand new. i have a holden rodeo RA 2004 I'm changing my cv driveshaft and my one is stuck on just looking around on RUclips to find the best one to get my one off it's making me cranky. back on it tomorrow
Big timer saver but in the back of the spindle there’s a seal and if you don’t pull it out straight you will rip the seal or damage it unless your going to replace it use the time saver method lol
Question this CV if not replaced does it make a thud sound when Turing left or right?? Cause I checked away bars n all my CV has no tears in the rubber covers nor loose..sound is verry not common. Any info be apprecated
My best guess is that if The ball bearings or the casing holding them pop or thud it could mean the CV is joint under the boot is going bad. My other side occasionally does this. It could be any number of things but maybe time for new CV shafts
You think its fine to re use that part thats stuck in the differential? The one i have has a new one but i realized theres 2 snap rings that require you to remove quite a few more things to get it out.
@@ericbrown6802 absolutely, the piece that stays in the differential does not need to be removed unless actually damaged, they rarely ever break, to identify OEM cv axles they will have a green cup on the differential side, pm me if you have any questions I still actively own 3 Isuzu’s
@@ericbrown6802 it’s easier second time around ..haha but hopfully you’ll never have to do that again, there’s a Facebook group just search Isuzu trooper or rodeo 4x4 it’ll pop up, good luck
at the 2 minutes point in the video I don't understand why you cracked off the 6 x 17mm rotor bolts when the rotor didn't need to be removed and wasn't
@@bigislandblake what i was getting at you unnecessarily cracked off the 6 x17mm brake disc bolts yet the you left the disc still on the rotor, you also you removed the caliper and rotor which is not necessary when you pop the bottom ball joint, the cv shaft can be removed without removing the rotor or the brake caliper, i have done many troopers like that
You have a great point there, I should have known being an Isuzu it would all be in Metric! I used what I had that worked in this case in a less than ideal non shop field repair scenario.
I replaced the front brakes on my Wife's 98 Passport and noticed both front outer CV joint boots torn. Thanks, I needed this!
I do appreciate the content. But I recommend considering the following when doing this job: No need to mark the bearing retainer nut. You snug that up and then measure the preload setting by pulling on a lug nut in the horizontal direction. You can use a fish scale, or "feel" if you've done it several times. A new bearing will require more lbs of force compared to a re-used bearing.
Also, to remove ball joints, strike the cast iron spindle....not the nut on the bolt. You can use the pickle fork, but you'd better be prepared to replace the ball joint or at least the boot when you do.
Just don't want others potentially damaging their components...But I guess how you did it works too! Well done.
So first off great video!! Just a few tips for anyone who does this use a jack under the lower a arm to adjust the ball joint angle and you don’t even have to touch the ball joint or shock it came apart perfect and you don’t nuke the ball joint seal the outward most ball joint bolts are a bit of a pain but it comes apart like butter thanks for this video it really helped I just found a easier way great video tho!!
Good video, thanks! Helped with rotor change. I can say when you get to the Phillip head screws use a hammer with the screw driver. Just keep tapping the screw driver while you apply pressure. Thanks for the tips.
I gotta do this to my 02 Trooper. The shop down the street was going to charge me $1,000+ said it would take all day. Fuckers. My buddy's a mechanic and gonna give me a hand. Thanks for the video. Glad to see your shop manager Cat was there to supervise. lolz
Fresh paint might as well while you are there. Good video thanks for the info
Great video man! your truck looks like its in good shape
good quick guide, thanks
I just discovered both outer boots are cracked in two. Found it because I got under to look at the exhaust pipe that broke loose of the flange where it bolts to the header. Stainless steel, I will have to have it removed, flange welded back onto the pipe, and re bolted on.
Should I replace all four boots? Seems prudent. I'm planning to hire it done, since I don't have all the tools, patience or familiarity with tearing this stuff apart and then re-torquing things.
-----------------------------------------
Right now I can't drive the '98 trooper far, since the exhaust pipe is held up against the flange with thin steel utility wire. Scared the crap outa me when it broke free. I was doing 65 on a north Idaho highway. Thought the engine had just exploded and I was in a world of hurt. Only had to drive it carefully to a small town where I could buy the wire and Gerry Rig it to make it far less noisy. Drove it another 300-400 miles home like that, sounding like a big diesel pickup when I'd get on it.
Now THOSE nuts are ON there. I tried to break them loose to get the flange off, but saw I was going to wreck the bolt hexes, so stopped and decided to hire that done. Sometimes it's a B---- when old vehicles start to wear out. The flange failed, though, because one of the three bolts was not on its stud, and that was what started the pipe/flange weakening at the perimeter weld. 17mm nuts. 18" extension required.
Muchas gracias por tu vídeo me ayudó mucho más que la explicación del mecánico espero más vídeos. Que la fuerza te acompañe.
Any tips to getting the axle half shaft seated into the inboard joint bearings or is it pretty easy??
Thank you so much I have an Acura slx and I haven't found anything helpful
The CV shaft just pops out of the front gear case with a prybar, once you have the cv out of the hub assembly just reach in there with a prybar and gently pry against the case and inner cv and it comes right out. Its just held in there with a spring C clip.
Most CV shafts are like that.
Find a pic of the CV shaft assembly and look at the inner spline.
Much easier to deal with them boot clamps when the whole shaft is sitting on the bench.
My 2 cents
Round wire C-clip, or the flat metal type? Big difference in how to install/remove.
Tnks bro!
This was kind of helpful but for anyone watching. You dont need to loosen the second set of 6 bolts. They are for the rotor and unless youre also replacing that move along to the next step.
need help with the screw I have seamed to strip one of them and don't have a punch set any help works apricate it
It looks like opel Frontera cool
Are the CV axles themselves the same on both sides?
Cheers mate
you need a new brake caliper or clean it and give it a new paint job on it have lot of surface rust on it. my one looks brand new. i have a holden rodeo RA 2004 I'm changing my cv driveshaft and my one is stuck on just looking around on RUclips to find the best one to get my one off it's making me cranky. back on it tomorrow
Update, please! Inquiring minds, and all that... :)
Big timer saver but in the back of the spindle there’s a seal and if you don’t pull it out straight you will rip the seal or damage it unless your going to replace it use the time saver method lol
Toyota rims?
Question this CV if not replaced does it make a thud sound when Turing left or right?? Cause I checked away bars n all my CV has no tears in the rubber covers nor loose..sound is verry not common. Any info be apprecated
My best guess is that if The ball bearings or the casing holding them pop or thud it could mean the CV is joint under the boot is going bad. My other side occasionally does this. It could be any number of things but maybe time for new CV shafts
to anyone about to take on this job, go the half shaft way, do not bother trying to remove that soup cup.
You think its fine to re use that part thats stuck in the differential? The one i have has a new one but i realized theres 2 snap rings that require you to remove quite a few more things to get it out.
@@ericbrown6802 absolutely, the piece that stays in the differential does not need to be removed unless actually damaged, they rarely ever break, to identify OEM cv axles they will have a green cup on the differential side, pm me if you have any questions I still actively own 3 Isuzu’s
@@WorkableWax thank you for the response. Unfortunately i had to replace both cvs entirely since the inner part was damaged. What a terrible job!!
@@ericbrown6802 it’s easier second time around ..haha but hopfully you’ll never have to do that again, there’s a Facebook group just search Isuzu trooper or rodeo 4x4 it’ll pop up, good luck
@@WorkableWax yea im not gonna do it again haha. Thanks for the info
you didn't change your cap
at the 2 minutes point in the video I don't understand why you cracked off the 6 x 17mm rotor bolts when the rotor didn't need to be removed and wasn't
If you watch until minute 5 you will see I removed the rotor.
@@bigislandblake what i was getting at you unnecessarily cracked off the 6 x17mm brake disc bolts yet the you left the disc still on the rotor, you also you removed the caliper and rotor which is not necessary when you pop the bottom ball joint, the cv shaft can be removed without removing the rotor or the brake caliper, i have done many troopers like that
Ok... Why on earth does he use fractional inch tools for everything... It's ALL metric...
You have a great point there, I should have known being an Isuzu it would all be in Metric! I used what I had that worked in this case in a less than ideal non shop field repair scenario.
Poor dog I liked my own commet how sad.