An extremely clear and concise video demonstrating the fundamental layout and cuts to produce a gable roof frame.The explanations of various roofing terms ( and components) combined with diagrams was most helpful, particularly for those of us living in countries outside of America ( UK in my case). I will certainly be viewing your more advanced videos on roof framing. Many thanks for providing such informative content (for us beginners)!
I've noticed in the comments a lot of whiners and complainers about this presentation. Problem i see today is too many short cuts to building and therefore creates too many problems due to electronic devices to "simplify" the math. I've been building residential homes for 30+ yrs, wish i had this book when i first started out. Excellent presentation 👏 👍
this video is one of the best on youtube educating people about roof slopes and all of its aspect. I got my associates from a junior college in home building and they don't even teach this in class. This is hands down the best ... thks
I’m a new subscriber. I actually love the way you teach, you guys broke down every step, lol I’d catch myself trying to figure out why you left steps out, only to find out I was the one trying to push the carrot in the mules backside, trying to get him to push the cart! Thanks for a great video
You made this easy to understand! But I do have some construction experience and geometry was my favorite math class. Cant wait to start building next spring. Thanks!
Great video! Thank you for the detailed explanation ... all the way down the rafter, every cut and how to accomplish that. You should write a book. Wait! You already did, ha ha. Thanks again.
I can say this is the best video i've watched bout building a gable roof. You both have made it very clear through illustration on what tools to use and how to use them..now I can say with confidence that I have a fair idea on how to build a gable roof. Thank you gentleman and Anna for the wonderfull and easy learn video..especially when Anna us involve in asking questions..you both earn my like..
So glad we came across your no-nonsense, to the point videos, such an excellent knowledge base! We'd like to convert our concrete block garage into a games room, and replace the hip roof, aligning the new ridge above one of the exterior walls, so the other half of the roof spans the drive, and is supported by posts, to form a car port. For a lightweight roof, would you recommend: A) All out prefabricated trusses B) Or divide the length of the roof with 2 large A-frames (using rafter and collar ties). Join these together and to gable ends with purlins. Then lay approx 4x smaller gauge rafters on 400 centers per section? Trusses offer great strength but we lose the open roof space, so we prefer option B, but concerned if it will cause much load spread of the wall plates, even with a load bearing wall beneath the ridge? Appreciate your advice, keep up the fantastic channel!
From what you describe that should be fairly straightforward. I am not a big fan of trusses except where you need them for the spans. If the ridge is to be over a bearing wall then you have no issues with the walls spreading. If the ridge can't come down then there is no lateral rafter thrust. It is simply a matter of sizing the rafters for the intended span. It sounds like you are contemplating using a field built truss in a couple of places, running purlins between them, and then putting rafters on top of that. It's unclear to me why you would go that way. It would seem easier to just use rafters on each side from eave to ridge at 400 ml on center. It could be done the other way, but you are concentrating the load on those "A-frames". Hopefully this answers your questions. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Gun Sense eh? Nice Question: In your book, did you say anything about what 2A wording really means? Examples Well Regulated: Means to be ready, in working order. Militia: Any man ages 18 to 45. ( since then, it has grown to include women, and nearly any age, mostly 18 to end. Court cases has allowed underage to defend homes also.)
I have always wondered how they make the Cuts on the Roof Rafters. I can build the Walls, just not the Roof. Thanks for making this Video. I will definitely order the Roofing Bible. Subscribed and looking forward to seeing all your Videos.😁👍👍
I have cut many roofs You have to cut a few to really learn how to do it. What is amazing the chinese cut very complicated roos a few thousand years ago
"The term “birdsmouth” in the context of roof framing refers to a specific type of joint or cut made in a rafter. This joint resembles a bird’s mouth, hence the name1. In light frame construction, a birdsmouth joint, also known as a bird’s beak cut, is generally used to connect a roof rafter to the top plate of a supporting wall. It is an indentation cut into the rafter, consisting of a “seat cut” (the face of which rests on the top plate) and a “heel cut” or “plumb cut” (the face of which lies parallel to the supporting wall), forming a shape resembling a bird’s mouth2. The indentation should not extend unsupported on the interior in order to maintain the structural integrity of the rafter because the unsupported section can split along the grain of the wood2. The joint is generally fastened with nails by toenailing the rafter from the side into the top plate below2. As a general rule, no more than one third of the depth of the rafter should be removed, in order to maintain structural integrity."
I am a beginner so thanks for the video. By the way do you have any video on replacing a rotted roof plate, rafter and joist on a concrete sill? Continue making videos for us beginners.
The comments are comical 😂! I just spent an hour rewinding the video and going through it. The guy did a great job explaining things, especially if you have zero roofing experience. If you made it past the 5th grade and aren't complete idiot, this shouldn't be hard for you to understand. If you read this comment, good sir, what pitch would you recommend ( none snowy area) for a chicken coop 4x6 the run being 3ft? Look at me, go 😂! Thank you for everything.
The best pitch would depend on several things. If you are using a shingle roof you don't want to be flatter than a 3/12 pitch. A metal roof can be as flat as 1/12 without any issues. A steeper pitch usually is more attractive in appearance. It would also give you higher head height in the coop. So, it all depends on what you are trying to achieve. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Just a FYI I know you want to use these skills but I've built a few chicken coops and I usually just cut the posts at a 15 degree angel and put a half roof on it. Easier and cheaper to be honest. Gable may look nicer but for simplicity and price I go with the half roofs.
@MM-overtime You're 💯 percent correct. The big sister became an overnight homesteader 😆 so I did that for the rabbit hutch. It was a lean to 10 degrees, I believe. She then tasked me with a "chicken coop." Being who I'm, I did about a month of research. I got done preparing the site for a 6 x 16, Carolina style Coop build yesterday 😂. I realized I couldn't get that professional look with just the tools I have . So I have a planer, track saw, and table saw on the way from Amazon Prime day, wish me luck. I will be skipping the ridge pole and running gussets. On the 4x6 coop ( 3 rafters front middle back, I'm going to do a 4 or 6 inch pitch depending on what looks best and a metal roof. The run will not have the same roof it will have polycarbonate at a 1 - maybe 2-degree angle. Full size Dutch door, custom waterer and feeder, deep liter method will be used 👌. The only thing I have not decided on yet is if I'll do pocket holes and lay the 2x4 on the flat side and use them as trim with the plywood inside like the carolina coops and then for the two 4 foot sides frame them regularly or do the same place them flat 🤔 and run the plywood inside if that makes sense. Either way, thanks for commenting. Stay safe.
Keep in mind that some codes limit the birds-mouth notch to a maximum depth of one quarter the dimensional width. In this example here, the notch would be limited to 1 3/8 inch across the width of the stock (5 1/2 inches). Don't compromise rafter tail strength in lieu of top plate bearing as some codes state that an 1 1/2 is the minimum seat bearing needed for 2x stock. Balancing between the minimum and maximum requirements is the key to strong building practices.
Very well explained, congrats. Just a minor adding to your explanation, as it's intended for beginners, is that a nominal 2x4 is actually 3.5 inches wide ( when explaining the birdsmouth); other than that, very good.
Thank you so much for sharing all this knowledge. Do you have a video that shows how to figure out the angles and compound cuts for blocks for the valleys and hips?
It is covered in several of the videos. I don't have a video specifically on that alone. Marking the birdsmouth is dependent on several variables, such as the width of the wall plate, the size of the rafter material, and the H.A.P. . Perhaps I need to explain that more clearly. Thanks for watching!
It wasn't covered in the video, but you always must have either a ceiling joist tying the rafters together at the plate line or a structural ridge. It the bottom ends of the rafters can't push out, the ridge can't sag. Or, if the ridge is structural and can't sag, then the rafters will not push out or spread at the bottom. Obviously there are limits to the spans of both the rafters and the ridge. The allowable span of the rafters will vary depending on the material / size of the rafters. If you are using a structural ridge, it has to be designed to carry the imposed loads. I wish the answer was simple, but it depends on a lot of different variables. Thanks for watching!
Question I need to rebuild my greenhouse after a recent storm and going to use wood and reuse the plastic sheets. So my roof sheets are 46inches each. I'm guessing the span will be between 72- 84inches but not sure how wide I can make the greenhouse. How high pitch can I go with a 1.5inch overhang for each sheet?
Alright you have several variables there, but if I'm understanding you correctly you are saying that your sheets allow you to have a maximum rafter length of 44 1/2" (46" - 1 1/2"). At a 4/12 pitch you could have a total width or span of 84" (42" of run on each side). I hope that helps.
All the framing material shown is 1 1/2" thick. The size of the rafters is determined by the overall run of the rafter, the loads imposed on the rafter, and the lumber species. For instance if you are in an area of heavy snow load the rafters would have to be sized accordingly. Often 2x4 rafters are fine for a small shed. If you have longer tails (overhangs) on the rafters then you have to be careful that you don't over cut the birdsmouth and therefore reduce the cross section of the rafter over the wall to the point that the tail breaks off over the wall. The pitch of the roof is a factor in determining how much "meat" is left in the rafter above the birdsmouth cut. If this is a concern, it is OK to cut the birdsmouth notch smaller (doesn't have full bearing on the wall plate) so as to maximize the wood over the birdsmouth. I don't want to make this overly complicated, but there are a few factors to consider. It depends on your individual requirements. Thanks for watching!
Many times you don't need to determine the ridge height. You simply calculate and set the rafters and they will set the ridge height. Of course you can easily calculate the ridge height as needed using the rise and run. The height of the ridge above the plate would be the total rise of the rafter plus the H.A.P. dimension. Thanks for watching!
Ha! I understand. New concepts can seem complicated. It's really not. Just get started. Divide and conquer, and take it a step at a time. Explaining things step-by-step sometimes can make simple things sound complicated.
Yes, you are correct. Although beyond the scope of this basic video, it is necessary to have either a tie across the building or have the ridge fully supported. If the ridge can't come down, the rafters can't push out. A ceiling joist tie across the building will also resist the rafter thrust. Thanks for watching!
Yes, you're right. We would normally cut one pattern and use it to cut the rest. I just thought it important to get some rafters up to look at. The hope was to provide perspective to help them understand the explanation. Thanks for watching!
Hi, as per your recommendation iv purchased both your book " Roof framers bible" and the "A roof cutters secrets " as they go hand in hand. I got your book first and love it. I only recently got the secrets book and noticed some discrepancies between the two. For example in your book 10/12 page 52 the rafter ratio is 1.302 which I believe is right. But in the secrets book page 299 on same 10/12 pitch rafter it has a ratio of 0.8333. I must be reading it wrong. Could you have a look please? Thank you Also I noticed that the tables in your book stop at 25 feet, what if the span is greater then that
It is just a confusion of terms. On page 298 of Roof Cutter's Secrets in the chart for "Rafter line-length ratios" you will see 1.3017, which the the same as the rounded number in my book for the rafter length. If you look on page 299, the "Roof-Rise Ratios" gives .8333. This is giving the rise of the roof, not the rafter length. If you look back at Roof Framer's Bible page 52, directly below the 1.302 factor for rafter length, you see the factor .833 for rise. So, it is the same in both books. Just a little confusion as to how to read the charts. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBiblehi, thank you so much h for getting back to me so quickly. I see it now ha. If it had teeth I'd of got bitten. I love your book. I don't get all of it yet but most of it makes perfect sense
Excellent video!!! I do have a question though. Do you put the ridge board up first and then determine your rafter length? I've seen it where people will mount the ridge board first and then cut the rafters accordingly. Thanks
In most cases you want to calculate the rafter lengths and then use the common rafters to set the ridge height. It is possible to set the ridge first, but that is not commonly done, unless you have a structural ridge beam. Thanks for watching!
I'm currently building a shed and haven't gotten to the roof yet... this will make it so much easier! Is there a recommended size of lumber for roof rafters vs pitch?
The thing that determines the rafter size is the structural capacity for a given horizontal run of the rafter. The pitch or slope only has a limited impact on the decision. For limited spans such as on a shed, they would generally be 2x6's, but if it is small enough you may be OK with 2x4's.
H.A.P. is the abbreviation for "height above plate". It is measured vertical right above the outside of the plate. It is determined by the depth of the notch for the birdsmouth. You may want to watch our first video "Beginners guide to roof framing" to understand H.A.P. and positioning of the birdsmouth. Thanks for watching!
I find that most people understand best by showing a visual. They often lose context when the framing square is laying down on the saw horse. That's why it is illustrated on the rafter already in position. That way the body of the square is horizontal and the tongue of the square is vertical. Thanks for watching!
Rise is determined by the roof pitch that is selected. Most of the time the pitch is determined by architectural preference. Often an architect will specify a steeper roof so that they can achieve a larger roof mass. It is just a matter of balancing the proportions of the house. It is one of those "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" situations. Personal preference and architectural style will dictate the roof pitch selected. Thanks for watching!
I have generally used 4" for the plumb cut when using a 1x6 fascia. This allows the finish fascia to extend up to the top of the roof sheathing and also to hang down with a roughly 3/4" reveal from the bottom of a 3/8" soffit material to the bottom of the finish fascia. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
I am building a new house. I have a floorplan plan, 19:46 but it doesn't include the roof structure. Do you know where can I go to get that information. Great video! Blessings!!
There is a great deal more to a house plan than just a floor plan. You can put any number of different roof configurations on the same floor plan. Builders often do this to spice up the neighborhood. The architect would typically draw all aspects of a house plan. including the elevations, floor plan, roof plan. Once you have a plan illustrating the roof configuration, the next step is to get the engineering done. Generally roof systems will either be prefabricated trusses or "stick built". The truss company would provide the engineering for the trusses. The engineer of record for the project would design a stick-built roof and provide a roof plan that shows the location and sizes of the rafter members. Thanks for watching!
When I multiply 4ft by 14.42 I get 57.68 which is closer to 57 11/16. Are you rounding up to the nearest 1/8th? Or am I doing something wrong? Is this a minute detail?
Yes, I generally round to the nearest 1/8". That is typical for rough framing. The irregularity of the framing lumber will affect it more than the rounding. Thanks for watching!
thanks for the awesome video... however, help me understand something... when using this primary method of measuring the rafter in this video, doesn't it require the rafter to already be in place as shown? I can follow the Roof Bible and the 'alternative' run method, and I can follow the method that was used, but it just seems like the rafter would have to be in place... The step off method also seems like the rafter would also have to be in place... Another question, the rafter tail is arbitrary, correct? If I want it to be 12", fine, or if I wanted it to be 18", that's fine as well, correct? Thanks again...
I placed the rafter into position to aid the viewer in understanding its final placement. None of the methods of determining the rafter length require it to be so. In practice these are always laid out with the boards on the saw horses. As to the overhangs, you are correct. The length of the overhang can be whatever you desire. Regardless of length they are laid out with the same method. I trust this answers your question. Thanks for watching!
I have been cutting rafters since 1968. Here is a simple way. First you need to get a book that that tells you the rafter length by the span of the rafter.. In this plan the span is 8' so you look under common raffter by span go down to 8 ' It would automaticall tell you the rafter lngth of one rafter.( the run of this rafter woulld be 4' but you look under 8'span. Now the ridge ia 1 1/2'' wide so before looking up the apan you deduct 1 1/2'' from 8' so you would actually look up 7' 10 1/2'' The best part of this book If you have a hip or valley( they are both exactally the same length) you would take the same measurement o the span off the common 7' 10 1/2'' and look under hip or valley it would tell you the exact length of one hip no shorting needed
Nice video, the biggest takeaway for an inexperienced person that translates to any segment of construction. Its a process. Research, plan, follow each step, dont cut corners, be patient. Ask for help when you need it and sub out anything required by law. Follow all codes and get it inspected. This I cant emphasize enough.
True, so true. Anybody can do anything if they slow down long enough to understand it and approach it with humility, and a recognition of their limitations. Thanks for watching!
The 71.25" is the rafter length from the side of the ridge to the end of the overhang (rafter tail). You use one half the span of the building (4' in this case), add 12" overhang, and subtract 3/4" for half of the ridge thickness. You use this run number to calculate the overall rafter length of 71.25". Thanks for watching!
Builders square everything you need ...for your roof to scale, pitch, plumb cut, Birdsmouth all in one. The Short leaf your riser/long leaf run, i do insitu stairs, as well.
The framing square can do it all. I almost always use the full scale framing square instead of the smaller speed squares. If you are doing standard roof pitches they make it easy. Thanks for watching!
I'm getting ready to build an off-grid cabin in an area that has no building codes. I'm trying to find info on ridge board or ridge beam sizing based on span and load. Does your roof bible have that info in it? I've built many houses but always used trusses, this is my first time with rafters.
No, Roof Framer's Bible doesn't address any structural beam sizing. There are just too many variables. If you have ceiling joists attached to the rafters on each side you only need a ridge board. The ridge board should be one size larger than the rafters, so if you have 2x6 rafters you will need a 2x8 ridge. If you have a vaulted ceiling (no ceiling joist tie) you will need a ridge beam large enough to carry the load of half the span. There are some beam calculators out there. Just figure out the loads for your situation (dead load, live load, snow loads, etc.) and plug those loads per square foot into the calculator to get a beam size for your ridge. This isn't really recommended for DIY unless you have some experience. It is best to contact a competent person or engineer. Good luck. Thanks for watching!
All of our order fulfillment is through Amazon. I believe you can order it from other sites, but of course it would be a longer delivery and they would also source it through Amazon.
Good video but you completely skipped over how to connect the common rafters to the ridge. Was the ridge just nailed flush into the end of the first rafter? If so, then how is the facing rafter nailed to the ridge?
Yes, the ridge is face nailed to the top end of the first rafter. The opposing rafter can be "toe-nailed" into the ridge. You typically would also face nail into the rafter from the opposite side of the ridge. You simply start the nail up next to the side of the first rafter and angle the nails to engage the center of the opposite rafter. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
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Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out our playlist for all of our videos.
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How can I obtain your roof framing Bible thank you so much
You can go to roofbible.com, or you can order directly from Amazon. Thanks for watching. Have a great day!
One of the best instructional videos I have seen, nice work!
Thanks for watching!
An extremely clear and concise video demonstrating the fundamental layout and cuts to produce a gable roof frame.The explanations of various roofing terms ( and components) combined with diagrams was most helpful, particularly for those of us living in countries outside of America ( UK in my case). I will certainly be viewing your more advanced videos on roof framing. Many thanks for providing such informative content (for us beginners)!
Thanks for watching!
I've noticed in the comments a lot of whiners and complainers about this presentation. Problem i see today is too many short cuts to building and therefore creates too many problems due to electronic devices to "simplify" the math. I've been building residential homes for 30+ yrs, wish i had this book when i first started out. Excellent presentation 👏 👍
It's great to hear the feedback. Yep, it is difficult to please everybody. I appreciate the compliment. Thanks for watching!
this video is one of the best on youtube educating people about roof slopes and all of its aspect. I got my associates from a junior college in home building and they don't even teach this in class. This is hands down the best ... thks
Thanks for watching!
Finally a video with excellent detail!!! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video Barry... thanks for sharing! Keep these coming.
More to come!
Just what I needed to get started on framing the roof for the shed I’m building out back. Thanks!
Good deal. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. You are the first person to explain this to me, so I can understand it.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Well, I wasn't looking for you today, but I have been looking for you for a long time. Subscribed!! And I'll be back. Thank you. 😊
I like your "handle". I'm glad you enjoyed the videos. Thanks for watching!
Definitely the best video I’ve seen on the subject.
Great! Thanks for watching!
While I'd heard these terms many times, I hated that I didn't know exactly what each actually meant. Thanks for breaking it down for us newbs!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
I’m a new subscriber. I actually love the way you teach, you guys broke down every step, lol I’d catch myself trying to figure out why you left steps out, only to find out I was the one trying to push the carrot in the mules backside, trying to get him to push the cart! Thanks for a great video
Great to hear from you. Thanks for watching!
You really made this easy to understand. Thanks.
Glad to be helpful. Thanks for watching!
This is great, thanks for sharing! Greetings from Norway! God bless! 🇳🇴☦️👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
You have a lovely assistant.
You made this easy to understand! But I do have some construction experience and geometry was my favorite math class. Cant wait to start building next spring. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project.
Thank you so much, can you please keep adding more videos I bought the roof framers bable and I learn a lot with your 20 min video today
Great! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for writing that framing rafter bible. I should get a signed copy before they are all gone.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks! Looking forward to a video on shed roofs!
Thanks for watching!
Nice video.
For those who think this is still too complicated.
Just draw the rafter out on the floor, and take your measurements from that.
Hey best tutorial on rafter building
Keeping it simple
Just subscribed
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the informative visualization and comprehensive descriptions
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
I'm gonna be doing my shed this summer, so your video will be highly helpful.
Thank you
Good deal. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you for the detailed explanation ... all the way down the rafter, every cut and how to accomplish that. You should write a book. Wait! You already did, ha ha. Thanks again.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Great to see a roof being made without a single cut
Thanks for watching!
I can say this is the best video i've watched bout building a gable roof. You both have made it very clear through illustration on what tools to use and how to use them..now I can say with confidence that I have a fair idea on how to build a gable roof. Thank you gentleman and Anna for the wonderfull and easy learn video..especially when Anna us involve in asking questions..you both earn my like..
Thank you very much! I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!
You explained this so well, thank you!
You're welcome, and thanks for watching!
So glad we came across your no-nonsense, to the point videos, such an excellent knowledge base!
We'd like to convert our concrete block garage into a games room, and replace the hip roof, aligning the new ridge above one of the exterior walls, so the other half of the roof spans the drive, and is supported by posts, to form a car port.
For a lightweight roof, would you recommend:
A) All out prefabricated trusses
B) Or divide the length of the roof with 2 large A-frames (using rafter and collar ties). Join these together and to gable ends with purlins. Then lay approx 4x smaller gauge rafters on 400 centers per section?
Trusses offer great strength but we lose the open roof space, so we prefer option B, but concerned if it will cause much load spread of the wall plates, even with a load bearing wall beneath the ridge? Appreciate your advice, keep up the fantastic channel!
From what you describe that should be fairly straightforward. I am not a big fan of trusses except where you need them for the spans. If the ridge is to be over a bearing wall then you have no issues with the walls spreading. If the ridge can't come down then there is no lateral rafter thrust. It is simply a matter of sizing the rafters for the intended span. It sounds like you are contemplating using a field built truss in a couple of places, running purlins between them, and then putting rafters on top of that. It's unclear to me why you would go that way. It would seem easier to just use rafters on each side from eave to ridge at 400 ml on center. It could be done the other way, but you are concentrating the load on those "A-frames". Hopefully this answers your questions. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Very well explained. Excellent for training and refreshing. Your time and knowledge is greatly appreciated
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making it very clear. Much appreciated.
Good deal! Thanks for watching!
My favorite one on this subject!
Great! Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Very simple explanation 👍👍👍 love it,,
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful and easy to follow. Thank you. I think it's time to tackle a project. 😊
Thanks for watching!
I will be buying your book sir! You and your assistant are excellent instructors!
My book is Gun Sense.
Thank you sir. I'll have to check out your book. Thanks for watching!
Gun Sense eh? Nice
Question: In your book, did you say anything about what 2A wording really means?
Examples
Well Regulated: Means to be ready, in working order.
Militia: Any man ages 18 to 45. ( since then, it has grown to include women, and nearly any age, mostly 18 to end. Court cases has allowed underage to defend homes also.)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I plan on buying the book!
We're glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
that was really helpful, thankyou
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I just purchased your book this weekend. Cant wait to use it!
Great! Thanks for watching.
Hello, I like your videos explanations,looks easy. Thank you
Glad you like them!
I have always wondered how they make the Cuts on the Roof Rafters. I can build the Walls, just not the Roof. Thanks for making this Video. I will definitely order the Roofing Bible. Subscribed and looking forward to seeing all your Videos.😁👍👍
Great! Thanks for watching.
I have cut many roofs You have to cut a few to really learn how to do it. What is amazing the chinese cut very complicated roos a few thousand years ago
Very helpful for a DIY homeowner like me. Do you have a video on erecting the roof ..attaching the rafters to the ridge and walls?
No, not yet. Check out Larry Haun's video at Fine Homebuilding. It should show what you need. Thanks for watching!
Great video!!! Thanks for posting! Everything made complete sense. 👍
Great! Thanks for watching!
Best tutorial on cutting rafters seat cut etc.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
"The term “birdsmouth” in the context of roof framing refers to a specific type of joint or cut made in a rafter. This joint resembles a bird’s mouth, hence the name1.
In light frame construction, a birdsmouth joint, also known as a bird’s beak cut, is generally used to connect a roof rafter to the top plate of a supporting wall. It is an indentation cut into the rafter, consisting of a “seat cut” (the face of which rests on the top plate) and a “heel cut” or “plumb cut” (the face of which lies parallel to the supporting wall), forming a shape resembling a bird’s mouth2.
The indentation should not extend unsupported on the interior in order to maintain the structural integrity of the rafter because the unsupported section can split along the grain of the wood2. The joint is generally fastened with nails by toenailing the rafter from the side into the top plate below2. As a general rule, no more than one third of the depth of the rafter should be removed, in order to maintain structural integrity."
Well said. Thanks for watching!
Great job guys
Thanks for watching!
Excellent work
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. I found this instruction very helpful.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Why didn't I find this channel sooner?! Subscribed!
Thanks for watching
Nice presentation. I like to think about Pythagorean theorem so found this all of great interest and helpful.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Great video
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Ill need to watch it 20 more times but great presentation. lol
Thanks for watching!
Great teaching
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
I am a beginner so thanks for the video. By the way do you have any video on replacing a rotted roof plate, rafter and joist on a concrete sill? Continue making videos for us beginners.
No, sorry. Thanks for watching!
The comments are comical 😂! I just spent an hour rewinding the video and going through it. The guy did a great job explaining things, especially if you have zero roofing experience. If you made it past the 5th grade and aren't complete idiot, this shouldn't be hard for you to understand. If you read this comment, good sir, what pitch would you recommend ( none snowy area) for a chicken coop 4x6 the run being 3ft? Look at me, go 😂! Thank you for everything.
The best pitch would depend on several things. If you are using a shingle roof you don't want to be flatter than a 3/12 pitch. A metal roof can be as flat as 1/12 without any issues. A steeper pitch usually is more attractive in appearance. It would also give you higher head height in the coop. So, it all depends on what you are trying to achieve. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Yes
Just a FYI I know you want to use these skills but I've built a few chicken coops and I usually just cut the posts at a 15 degree angel and put a half roof on it. Easier and cheaper to be honest. Gable may look nicer but for simplicity and price I go with the half roofs.
@MM-overtime You're 💯 percent correct. The big sister became an overnight homesteader 😆 so I did that for the rabbit hutch. It was a lean to 10 degrees, I believe. She then tasked me with a "chicken coop." Being who I'm, I did about a month of research. I got done preparing the site for a 6 x 16, Carolina style Coop build yesterday 😂. I realized I couldn't get that professional look with just the tools I have . So I have a planer, track saw, and table saw on the way from Amazon Prime day, wish me luck. I will be skipping the ridge pole and running gussets. On the 4x6 coop ( 3 rafters front middle back, I'm going to do a 4 or 6 inch pitch depending on what looks best and a metal roof. The run will not have the same roof it will have polycarbonate at a 1 - maybe 2-degree angle. Full size Dutch door, custom waterer and feeder, deep liter method will be used 👌.
The only thing I have not decided on yet is if I'll do pocket holes and lay the 2x4 on the flat side and use them as trim with the plywood inside like the carolina coops and then for the two 4 foot sides frame them regularly or do the same place them flat 🤔 and run the plywood inside if that makes sense. Either way, thanks for commenting. Stay safe.
All men are not created equal 😢
thanks alot for the information.
Most welcome! Thanks for watching!
Keep in mind that some codes limit the birds-mouth notch to a maximum depth of one quarter the dimensional width.
In this example here, the notch would be limited to 1 3/8 inch across the width of the stock (5 1/2 inches).
Don't compromise rafter tail strength in lieu of top plate bearing as some codes state that an 1 1/2 is the minimum seat bearing needed for 2x stock.
Balancing between the minimum and maximum requirements is the key to strong building practices.
Well said! Thanks for watching!
Very well explained, congrats. Just a minor adding to your explanation, as it's intended for beginners, is that a nominal 2x4 is actually 3.5 inches wide ( when explaining the birdsmouth); other than that, very good.
Thanks for the feedback.
Just lay your rafters on the floor before the walls go up and make your template for the rest. It gives you the proper width and go from there.
Yep, you can do that! Simple roofs are not hard. Thanks for watching!
There you go !👍🏼
Thank you so much for sharing all this knowledge. Do you have a video that shows how to figure out the angles and compound cuts for blocks for the valleys and hips?
We haven't made a video on that yet. We'll take a look at it. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video where you cover measuring for the seatcut?
It is covered in several of the videos. I don't have a video specifically on that alone. Marking the birdsmouth is dependent on several variables, such as the width of the wall plate, the size of the rafter material, and the H.A.P. . Perhaps I need to explain that more clearly. Thanks for watching!
how long can the span be with out putting a post in the middle?
It wasn't covered in the video, but you always must have either a ceiling joist tying the rafters together at the plate line or a structural ridge. It the bottom ends of the rafters can't push out, the ridge can't sag. Or, if the ridge is structural and can't sag, then the rafters will not push out or spread at the bottom. Obviously there are limits to the spans of both the rafters and the ridge. The allowable span of the rafters will vary depending on the material / size of the rafters. If you are using a structural ridge, it has to be designed to carry the imposed loads. I wish the answer was simple, but it depends on a lot of different variables. Thanks for watching!
very well explained thank you
Thanks for watching!
Great job
Thanks for watching!
Question
I need to rebuild my greenhouse after a recent storm and going to use wood and reuse the plastic sheets.
So my roof sheets are 46inches each. I'm guessing the span will be between 72- 84inches but not sure how wide I can make the greenhouse.
How high pitch can I go with a 1.5inch overhang for each sheet?
Alright you have several variables there, but if I'm understanding you correctly you are saying that your sheets allow you to have a maximum rafter length of 44 1/2" (46" - 1 1/2"). At a 4/12 pitch you could have a total width or span of 84" (42" of run on each side). I hope that helps.
@RoofFramersBible Great thanks, am I correct that it will be a rise of 14"?
Correct. You got it!
Include longer Roof Eaves in the discussion also.
All the framing material shown is 1 1/2" thick. The size of the rafters is determined by the overall run of the rafter, the loads imposed on the rafter, and the lumber species. For instance if you are in an area of heavy snow load the rafters would have to be sized accordingly. Often 2x4 rafters are fine for a small shed. If you have longer tails (overhangs) on the rafters then you have to be careful that you don't over cut the birdsmouth and therefore reduce the cross section of the rafter over the wall to the point that the tail breaks off over the wall. The pitch of the roof is a factor in determining how much "meat" is left in the rafter above the birdsmouth cut. If this is a concern, it is OK to cut the birdsmouth notch smaller (doesn't have full bearing on the wall plate) so as to maximize the wood over the birdsmouth. I don't want to make this overly complicated, but there are a few factors to consider. It depends on your individual requirements. Thanks for watching!
how did you determine the height of the ridge beam? and/or how did you determine where the bird mouth went?
Many times you don't need to determine the ridge height. You simply calculate and set the rafters and they will set the ridge height. Of course you can easily calculate the ridge height as needed using the rise and run. The height of the ridge above the plate would be the total rise of the rafter plus the H.A.P. dimension. Thanks for watching!
You don't need to know that normally, unless the rise is critical, determining the pitch
After viewing this video..... I think I will forget about building my shed...!
Ha! I understand. New concepts can seem complicated. It's really not. Just get started. Divide and conquer, and take it a step at a time. Explaining things step-by-step sometimes can make simple things sound complicated.
this is the exact thing size and everything lol i was looking for
Thanks for watching!
I'm sorry, did you say something? I was too busy staring at Anna!! hahaha....Great Video!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your video, but i have a question. It is not necessary to have a rafter tie or a collar tie?
Yes, you are correct. Although beyond the scope of this basic video, it is necessary to have either a tie across the building or have the ridge fully supported. If the ridge can't come down, the rafters can't push out. A ceiling joist tie across the building will also resist the rafter thrust. Thanks for watching!
This is supposed to make it clear for the beginner!! lol 😅😊. How about making all rafters the same size once you got the 1st 2 done?
Yes, you're right. We would normally cut one pattern and use it to cut the rest. I just thought it important to get some rafters up to look at. The hope was to provide perspective to help them understand the explanation. Thanks for watching!
Hi, as per your recommendation iv purchased both your book " Roof framers bible" and the "A roof cutters secrets " as they go hand in hand. I got your book first and love it. I only recently got the secrets book and noticed some discrepancies between the two.
For example in your book 10/12 page 52 the rafter ratio is 1.302 which I believe is right. But in the secrets book page 299 on same 10/12 pitch rafter it has a ratio of 0.8333.
I must be reading it wrong. Could you have a look please?
Thank you
Also I noticed that the tables in your book stop at 25 feet, what if the span is greater then that
It is just a confusion of terms. On page 298 of Roof Cutter's Secrets in the chart for "Rafter line-length ratios" you will see 1.3017, which the the same as the rounded number in my book for the rafter length. If you look on page 299, the "Roof-Rise Ratios" gives .8333. This is giving the rise of the roof, not the rafter length. If you look back at Roof Framer's Bible page 52, directly below the 1.302 factor for rafter length, you see the factor .833 for rise. So, it is the same in both books. Just a little confusion as to how to read the charts. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBiblehi, thank you so much h for getting back to me so quickly. I see it now ha. If it had teeth I'd of got bitten. I love your book. I don't get all of it yet but most of it makes perfect sense
Is it possible to have a birds mouth on the interior of the top plates and plumb cut flush with the exterior walls?
You can certainly cut the rafter tail off flush with the outside of the exterior wall. The birdsmouth would be the same, sitting on top of the plate.
Excellent video!!! I do have a question though. Do you put the ridge board up first and then determine your rafter length? I've seen it where people will mount the ridge board first and then cut the rafters accordingly. Thanks
In most cases you want to calculate the rafter lengths and then use the common rafters to set the ridge height. It is possible to set the ridge first, but that is not commonly done, unless you have a structural ridge beam. Thanks for watching!
what a great video, thank you so much
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
I'm currently building a shed and haven't gotten to the roof yet... this will make it so much easier! Is there a recommended size of lumber for roof rafters vs pitch?
The thing that determines the rafter size is the structural capacity for a given horizontal run of the rafter. The pitch or slope only has a limited impact on the decision. For limited spans such as on a shed, they would generally be 2x6's, but if it is small enough you may be OK with 2x4's.
I was having trouble sleeping. Thanks 😂
Thanks for watching!
How do you get your HAP if your rafter isn’t already up though?
H.A.P. is the abbreviation for "height above plate". It is measured vertical right above the outside of the plate. It is determined by the depth of the notch for the birdsmouth. You may want to watch our first video "Beginners guide to roof framing" to understand H.A.P. and positioning of the birdsmouth. Thanks for watching!
Awesome instructions.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
really elegant, clear, useful presentation.Thankyou, really.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
very nice, thanks for the info❤
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
I just got a job building trusses, I'm watching videos trying to learn
Great! With trusses the computers and automated saws do all the work, but all knowledge is helpful. Good luck and thanks for watching!
so, for the step-off method, you measured a rafter that was already in place, and was the right length? I don't understand
I find that most people understand best by showing a visual. They often lose context when the framing square is laying down on the saw horse. That's why it is illustrated on the rafter already in position. That way the body of the square is horizontal and the tongue of the square is vertical. Thanks for watching!
Good video.
Thanks for watching!
Great. Thank you both.
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video on how to build a shed roof?
No, I don't have one specifically on a shed roof. However a shed roof is just one half of a gable. The same principles apply. Thanks for watching!
So rise is determined by ? Roofing materials has to be some or just preference on looks
Rise is determined by the roof pitch that is selected. Most of the time the pitch is determined by architectural preference. Often an architect will specify a steeper roof so that they can achieve a larger roof mass. It is just a matter of balancing the proportions of the house. It is one of those "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" situations. Personal preference and architectural style will dictate the roof pitch selected. Thanks for watching!
Anna, where were you at the end with the eave cuts? “Hey wait why measure 4” for the plumb cut of a 1x6 facia board?”
I have generally used 4" for the plumb cut when using a 1x6 fascia. This allows the finish fascia to extend up to the top of the roof sheathing and also to hang down with a roughly 3/4" reveal from the bottom of a 3/8" soffit material to the bottom of the finish fascia. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
I am building a new house. I have a floorplan plan, 19:46 but it doesn't include the roof structure. Do you know where can I go to get that information.
Great video!
Blessings!!
There is a great deal more to a house plan than just a floor plan. You can put any number of different roof configurations on the same floor plan. Builders often do this to spice up the neighborhood. The architect would typically draw all aspects of a house plan. including the elevations, floor plan, roof plan. Once you have a plan illustrating the roof configuration, the next step is to get the engineering done. Generally roof systems will either be prefabricated trusses or "stick built". The truss company would provide the engineering for the trusses. The engineer of record for the project would design a stick-built roof and provide a roof plan that shows the location and sizes of the rafter members.
Thanks for watching!
@RoofFramersBible
Thank you for your answer!
I live in south Carolina do you know a engineer that can do the roof plan for us?
Blessings!!!
When I multiply 4ft by 14.42 I get 57.68 which is closer to 57 11/16. Are you rounding up to the nearest 1/8th? Or am I doing something wrong? Is this a minute detail?
Yes, I generally round to the nearest 1/8". That is typical for rough framing. The irregularity of the framing lumber will affect it more than the rounding. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible awesome video thanks for making it! I’m a complete beginner and I think I’m about to build a roof!
thanks for the awesome video... however, help me understand something... when using this primary method of measuring the rafter in this video, doesn't it require the rafter to already be in place as shown? I can follow the Roof Bible and the 'alternative' run method, and I can follow the method that was used, but it just seems like the rafter would have to be in place... The step off method also seems like the rafter would also have to be in place...
Another question, the rafter tail is arbitrary, correct? If I want it to be 12", fine, or if I wanted it to be 18", that's fine as well, correct?
Thanks again...
I placed the rafter into position to aid the viewer in understanding its final placement. None of the methods of determining the rafter length require it to be so. In practice these are always laid out with the boards on the saw horses. As to the overhangs, you are correct. The length of the overhang can be whatever you desire. Regardless of length they are laid out with the same method. I trust this answers your question. Thanks for watching!
I have been cutting rafters since 1968. Here is a simple way. First you need to get a book that that tells you the rafter length by the span of the rafter.. In this plan the span is 8' so you look under common raffter by span go down to 8 ' It would automaticall tell you the rafter lngth of one rafter.( the run of this rafter woulld be 4' but you look under 8'span. Now the ridge ia 1 1/2'' wide so before looking up the apan you deduct 1 1/2'' from 8' so you would actually look up 7' 10 1/2'' The best part of this book If you have a hip or valley( they are both exactally the same length) you would take the same measurement o the span off the common 7' 10 1/2'' and look under hip or valley it would tell you the exact length of one hip no shorting needed
Nice video, the biggest takeaway for an inexperienced person that translates to any segment of construction. Its a process. Research, plan, follow each step, dont cut corners, be patient. Ask for help when you need it and sub out anything required by law. Follow all codes and get it inspected. This I cant emphasize enough.
True, so true. Anybody can do anything if they slow down long enough to understand it and approach it with humility, and a recognition of their limitations. Thanks for watching!
Great help for me. Thanks.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I used the square common rafter calculation of 14.42 x 4 the run it come out to be 57.68. How do I get the 71.250
The 71.25" is the rafter length from the side of the ridge to the end of the overhang (rafter tail). You use one half the span of the building (4' in this case), add 12" overhang, and subtract 3/4" for half of the ridge thickness. You use this run number to calculate the overall rafter length of 71.25".
Thanks for watching!
Thank for Sharing
Thanks for watching!
Builders square everything you need ...for your roof to scale, pitch, plumb cut, Birdsmouth all in one.
The Short leaf your riser/long leaf run, i do insitu stairs, as well.
The framing square can do it all. I almost always use the full scale framing square instead of the smaller speed squares. If you are doing standard roof pitches they make it easy. Thanks for watching!
I'm getting ready to build an off-grid cabin in an area that has no building codes. I'm trying to find info on ridge board or ridge beam sizing based on span and load. Does your roof bible have that info in it? I've built many houses but always used trusses, this is my first time with rafters.
No, Roof Framer's Bible doesn't address any structural beam sizing. There are just too many variables. If you have ceiling joists attached to the rafters on each side you only need a ridge board. The ridge board should be one size larger than the rafters, so if you have 2x6 rafters you will need a 2x8 ridge. If you have a vaulted ceiling (no ceiling joist tie) you will need a ridge beam large enough to carry the load of half the span. There are some beam calculators out there. Just figure out the loads for your situation (dead load, live load, snow loads, etc.) and plug those loads per square foot into the calculator to get a beam size for your ridge. This isn't really recommended for DIY unless you have some experience. It is best to contact a competent person or engineer. Good luck. Thanks for watching!
Is it available through other online book seller sites?
All of our order fulfillment is through Amazon. I believe you can order it from other sites, but of course it would be a longer delivery and they would also source it through Amazon.
Good video but you completely skipped over how to connect the common rafters to the ridge. Was the ridge just nailed flush into the end of the first rafter? If so, then how is the facing rafter nailed to the ridge?
Yes, the ridge is face nailed to the top end of the first rafter. The opposing rafter can be "toe-nailed" into the ridge. You typically would also face nail into the rafter from the opposite side of the ridge. You simply start the nail up next to the side of the first rafter and angle the nails to engage the center of the opposite rafter. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!