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Excellent! Thanks for watching!

I have answered my own question by exploring your videos and finding the winterizing video. I’m proceeding with the build.

Good deal. Thanks for watching!

Great! Thanks for watching!

We're glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!

True. If you drop the hip instead of backing the corners of the hip, then yes, the soffit cut of the hip rafter would be trimmed off by the same amount. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

True. There are decided different views on use of those terms in different parts of the country. In the end it only really matters to those who already know everything about it, so I just didn't go there.

He measured it to show what it was, but you could use the chart on the framing square or the rafter book to calculate it.

We haven't made a video on that yet. We'll take a look at it. Thanks for watching!

Without a doubt it is, but we are comfortable with it. I can't imagine yelling out a measurement of 1876 mils. Sounds so strange. Thanks for watching!

Total material cost is under $500.

It actually is very easy with Roof Framer's Bible. The sheathing cuts at the hip lines are all the same on a regular polygon. Roof Framer's Bible gives the sheathing cuts for 28 different pitches of octagons. The sheathing cut is the difference in length from the long to short points, on a 4x8 sheet of plywood. For the 14/12 pitch octagon in the video, the sheathing cut is 12 7/8". Thanks for watching!

How would someone know if they didn't ask questions common sense?😮

@jamiesam1115 Well, it's an educational video, and the person should assume not everyone knows and explain it. It's like watching a documentary about whatever you want ok. Do we need a person asking questions in the middle of the documentary. At least I've watched other videos, and they explain pretty well without someone interrupting. So don't call it common sense because it's not.

Well said! Thanks for watching!

It is not available in metric. I would recommend Roof Cutter's Secrets, metric edition by Will Holladay. Thanks for watching!

That is awesome! I'm so glad the videos were helpful to you. Divide and conquer, and you can master any task. Best wishes in all you do!

I hear that from time to time. The word bible just means "book". So Holy Bible is the "Holy Book". In modern usage bible is used to denote "the definitive reference". That is want I intended Roof Framer's Bible to be, anything and everything a framer would need. Thanks for watching!

They certainly should fit the ridge. The most important is for the bottom of the rafter to be in contact with the ridge so that the load transfers. A small gap at the top, if it is well nailed, wouldn't be fatal. But, they should always be cut to fit. Thanks for watching!

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching

Well, that was always the assumption, but I never heard that directly. I was always curious about the story of the real origin. Several comments have been made about where they think it came from. @jayleeper1512, said "It is a slang term from England. The term “bird” refers to a women or girl. Most old English wives were known for yelling at their poor henpecked husbands and the birds mouth represented a woman’s mouth wide open and screaming. 😂". Wouldn't it be something if that is the true origin! Thanks for watching!

Keep your degeneracy to yourself

You should be kicked out of these comments. You have no respect and no class.

Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project.

My pleasure. Thanks for watching!

I find that most people understand best by showing a visual. They often lose context when the framing square is laying down on the saw horse. That's why it is illustrated on the rafter already in position. That way the body of the square is horizontal and the tongue of the square is vertical. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

It's not as bad for carpentry once you start to understand it better. But in general, I agree, metric system is way more convenient and, which most important, universal.

You can't understand it? 😂

@@primitivoreyes4395 no dummy, its fairly lsimple to convert it but its stupid.

The 57 3/4" is to the center of the ridge, so if you don't deduct for half of the ridge thickness, it will not fit. I wouldn't say the book is infallible, but in the 30 years since it was published no one has found an error in the calculations. Of course the figures in the charts are rounded to the nearest 1/8", so there will be small discrepancies from a calculated length. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

It is covered in several of the videos. I don't have a video specifically on that alone. Marking the birdsmouth is dependent on several variables, such as the width of the wall plate, the size of the rafter material, and the H.A.P. . Perhaps I need to explain that more clearly. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

The framing square can do it all. I almost always use the full scale framing square instead of the smaller speed squares. If you are doing standard roof pitches they make it easy. Thanks for watching!

True. Obviously, the model in the video is just for demonstration purposes. I'm glad I don't live where snow accumulates! Take care, and thanks for watching!

Ha! I understand. New concepts can seem complicated. It's really not. Just get started. Divide and conquer, and take it a step at a time. Explaining things step-by-step sometimes can make simple things sound complicated.

Great. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you for your feedback. It is difficult to be all things to all people. It is regrettable that you were confused by the discussion of 12" run increments. The historical method of discussing roof pitch is per 12" of run, or the ratio of rise over run. We will certainly endeavor to avoid confusion wherever we can. Thanks for watching!

The best pitch depends on what you are trying to achieve. Aesthetics will usually be the determining factor. Steeper pitches tend to look better. The type of roofing will also come into play. If you are using asphalt shingles you want to be at least a 4/12 pitch. If I am understanding you correctly as having a row of supports under the ridge, you probably don't need 2x12 rafters. Unless you are in a very high snow load area, you can probably use 2x8 rafters. That is if they are on 16" centers. The size of rafters and the perimeter beam are determined by the design load. I hope this is of help. Thanks for watching!

The model used is for illustration purposes only. You are correct that if this was a finished roof structure, you would need either ceiling joists tied to the rafters on each side, or a structural ridge with supporting posts on each end. Thanks for watching!

@RoofFramersBible thanks for your comment. I am not a builder. I am going to get a house built so I am just learning by watching RUclips videos. I will pass your valuable comments to my drafter.

This is discussed in the first bastard hip video at minute 17:40. If you keep the same H.A.P. for both the 4/12 and 6/12 rafters, and you have the same 12" overhang, you could build up the plate 2". Or, and most probably, you would add one plate and then adjust the birdsmouth or H.A.P. for the other 1/2". I have used the 12" overhang for the sake of clarity. If you have a larger overhang of course it would be different. Generally what I do is layout the lower pitch common first, 4/12 in your case. I then lay the framing square on the rafter as shown in figure 27, on page 29 of Roof Framer's Bible. I can then read on the framing square how far vertically it is from the "fascia point" up to the birdsmouth level cut. I do the same thing on the steeper rafter, 6/12 for you, and then mark the birdsmouth for it at a height that makes sense for that rafter. In other words at a height that leaves the appropriate amount of "beef" in the rafter above the birdsmouth notch. You can use whatever combination of adding plates or altering the birdsmouth cut, that gets you the height that you need. Of course this will vary by the pitch and also how wide the overhangs are. Don't be confused by it. Just use the framing square to measure up vertically from the "fascia point" and you'll have it. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Some things are just universal. In the end a carpenter has to fix it. Thanks for watching!

The thing that determines the rafter size is the structural capacity for a given horizontal run of the rafter. The pitch or slope only has a limited impact on the decision. For limited spans such as on a shed, they would generally be 2x6's, but if it is small enough you may be OK with 2x4's.

I need to do that. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. Thanks for watching!

Yep. You just decide how steep a roof you want. Often of course, the architects will make that decision for you and specify on the plans what pitch is desired. I just picked the 8/12 for demonstration purposes. Thanks for watching!

I was wondering the same.

Glad you like it, and thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it. You can order a book by going to roofbible.com. Thanks for watching!