Me and my buddy were the first to surf Assateague back in 67. After watching Endless Summer at the small theatre in OC for the thousandth time we decided to look for our perfect wave. Standing at the end of the boardwalk looking across the channel i said to my bro,"maybe our perfect wave is over on the island?" So the next morning we went to a motel at the end of OC and paddled to the mainland and then using the river current paddled to the island. We walked across the island like August and Hynson. Terns were dive bombing us having never seen surfers before. Then the moment arrived as we stood on the dunes overlooking the jetty. No,it was'nt Cape St Francis but it was 3 to 4 ft glassy waves with offshore winds. We had it for about a week until some guys spotted us paddling across. The horse flies made a feast of us.
Man, that's a great story! You're the August and Hynson of OC! I too paddled across from what is now "West OC" with two of my mates back around '76. I wasn't a surfer but they were. Almost got sucked into main channel and out to sea. Scary as hell but we made it! Then got clobbered by waves and flies.. My pals did way better than me. I was trying to learn on a shortboard and didn't have much natural ability. 30 years later (after longboards had crept back into coolness..) I gave it another shot and while I suck, I have an occasional moment that keeps me coming back! Sidenote - Robert August shaped my current funshape. 7' 10" based on one of his mini longboards I surfed for a week in Tamarindo. His shaping room is right where I stayed and he and I drew up the plan right at the bar. Really nice guy with a ton of cool stories of the old days, especially with Bruce Brown. Pura Vida!
I tend to go to Fed but State can be just as fun, and occasionally go OSV if things get crowded near the parking areas. It's so nice that we can all spread out if need be! Late Fall through early Spring is wide open but the sandbars shift and sometimes in summer it needs a good blowout storm to reform. Have a look and post up wherever you want! Thanks!
Me and my buddy were the first to surf Assateague back in 67. After watching Endless Summer at the small theatre in OC for the thousandth time we decided to look for our perfect wave. Standing at the end of the boardwalk looking across the channel i said to my bro,"maybe our perfect wave is over on the island?" So the next morning we went to a motel at the end of OC and paddled to the mainland and then using the river current paddled to the island. We walked across the island like August and Hynson. Terns were dive bombing us having never seen surfers before. Then the moment arrived as we stood on the dunes overlooking the jetty. No,it was'nt Cape St Francis but it was 3 to 4 ft glassy waves with offshore winds. We had it for about a week until some guys spotted us paddling across. The horse flies made a feast of us.
Man, that's a great story! You're the August and Hynson of OC! I too paddled across from what is now "West OC" with two of my mates back around '76. I wasn't a surfer but they were. Almost got sucked into main channel and out to sea. Scary as hell but we made it! Then got clobbered by waves and flies.. My pals did way better than me. I was trying to learn on a shortboard and didn't have much natural ability. 30 years later (after longboards had crept back into coolness..) I gave it another shot and while I suck, I have an occasional moment that keeps me coming back! Sidenote - Robert August shaped my current funshape. 7' 10" based on one of his mini longboards I surfed for a week in Tamarindo. His shaping room is right where I stayed and he and I drew up the plan right at the bar. Really nice guy with a ton of cool stories of the old days, especially with Bruce Brown. Pura Vida!
Do you ever surf where the wild horses swim....
Yah, sometimes in the heat of summer they splash around on the inside. More dolphins tho...
Ha! Got that Ricky Carroll board-Sat beach style!
I know Alexi sang “I have been searching... “ but for a moment I thought he sang, “I have been surfing all of my days... “ Really nice video.
Thx! That was a really fun day!
Cool vid I live and surf Delmarva too
Thx Amy! See ya in the lineup!
Great footage, man. Was wondering if you had any recommendations for parts of assateague you like to surf? Thanks!
I tend to go to Fed but State can be just as fun, and occasionally go OSV if things get crowded near the parking areas. It's so nice that we can all spread out if need be! Late Fall through early Spring is wide open but the sandbars shift and sometimes in summer it needs a good blowout storm to reform. Have a look and post up wherever you want! Thanks!
Looks fun
how deep is it out there? im actually there right now
This makes me so excited for summer