Excellent series Steve! Perpetually in demand is an explanation of the standard 5 cut method of squaring the carriage fence to the blade to ensure 90º cuts are accurate. Once you have some spare panel pieces it might be good to show that process.
Oh, yes, please, please do a series on considerations for purchasing of a slider -- especially selection and what to ask for, useful and essential options, and techniques for buying a good used machine privately or at auction. Also, I'm extremely interested in the mechanics of getting the monster delivered and off the truck, positioned, set up, and commissioned. As I recall, a mutual friend (and author of a useful, but out-of-print book) in the Felder group suggested he was hit with a surprise additional $2K to hire a rigger, flatbed truck, and forklift to get his Felder Format Kappa 400 from the local motor carrier's terminal and into his shop -- and this was in addition to what Felder had already charged for shipping. To this I can only screem, "EEEEEEK!" Or as Chester A. Riley might say, "What a revoltin' development this is."
Steve, after watching the install of the air clamps, I must mention that the best drill bits are the 135 degree metric metal working bits from Snap-On. These, even with hand held work, will get rid of the burr and make life quicker for you. Freight is included in the price. I live close to the Crystal Lake office and am 1 day away from delivery on most items. Beware that some of the CS people are new to the specs and can misunderstand your request. Get a catalog. I bought my first set of Snap-On bits back in the 80's and find them to be a good value in the long run or when drilling into cast iron tables with jigs.
Hi Steve, Thanks for the videos on panel saw set up and maintenance, I have an old panel saw which is basic but accurate and I would like to fit it with a digital readout , is this possible
I haven't done such an upgrade myself so it is hard to say. Ramon Valdez did a Tigerfence upgrade on his Hammer rip fence so you may want to check his channel. I am sure there are options out there but, I haven't had the need to research that. Steve
I recently invested in a Felder KF700 saw/shaper. Therefore I'm less interested in purchase ideas, but would love to learn about a) blade choices. hook angle etc and differences from cabinet saw choices b) review of Mac's clamps after you've used them for a while c) set up / adjustment of the saw especially leveling the sliding table relative to base d) homemade zero clearance inserts
Hi Schmidt Woodworks. a) I have built a caddy for my blades and have a wide variety of brands and types. That may be a good topic to cover. b) On Mac's clamps, I am really impressed by the quality and is almost indescribable. The ends of the shafts are rounded over (not chamfered) and have a wonderful finish. c) On the sliding table setup, it has been 13 years since I have done this (on a Felder CF741) and can't claim proficiency on that. Since you asked, I assume Felder still ships the longer tables separated from the saw. You will probably get much better advice on this topic in the Felder Owners Group (the original FOG) forum over on Yahoo. The Martin comes with the sliding table attached and it hasn't been touched since it left the factory. d) On the zero clearance inserts, I tried this on the Martin and it works but I didn't care for the setup. The Felder saws have a much better setup for zero clearance inserts than the Martin. For a while, John R. on the FOG, made these out of phenolic and sold them for a very reasonable price. I don't know if he still does this. Steve
Hi Steve, on the bottom left of the Martin you have a pair of jigs, they almost look like the Aigner Deflectors? I would also be interested in any additional jigs you have made for the table saw. Lastly, when you run out of things on the Martin. A similar series on the Felder Format4 Shaper would be great!
Hi Tony, One of them is an Aigner deflector that was modified by installing MagSwitches. The spacing of the rear switch is too far back and will not attach to the stainless outfeed table so I rarely use it. The other is my shop made version which is shorter so works a bit better but is very hard to remove once installed. They are so well stored out of the way, I seldom remember I even have them. I'll have to think about the shaper series. Next month I'll find out how much I don't know at the Alpine Advanced Shaper Course. Steve
I would love to see some videos on how your methods of work changed you switched to a slider. What do you do differently on your slider? Are there things that you used to do with a jig on a table saw, or a miter saw, or something else that you now do on your slider? Are there things that you expected to do on your slider, that you've switched to using another tool for because the slider just doesn't do it well? How has having a slider changed your designs?
Thanks for the feedback Michael. It certainly changed the way I work. The biggest obstacle was getting over habits I previously used on the cabinet saw. I have a few accessories with the saw and have ditched every tablesaw jig I had. The Fritz & Franz jig if pretty much the only jig used with the slider and it is really more of an accessory now. I don't care too much for dados on the slider even though I can get good results. Most of my dados are used in drawer construction so I pretty much default to the shaper for that and with the Domino, I have gotten away for dados in construction joints anyway. I seldom use a miter saw in the shop as the slider performs these tasks much better. Interesting thoughts on a video for this as I had not really considered it as a topic. Steve
@@kingparch I would call Martin and ask Al what to use. It is a very light weight oil so I suspect pneumatic oil would be okay but it never hurts to check.
Hi Steve, Thanks for making the videos you have made so far. As someone who has owned a Martin for sometime are there other jigs you have made in the past besides the Fritz and Franz unit that has made the use of the Martin safer/easier. Thanks.
Thank you. I haven't made any jigs other than the Fritz and Franz for the Martin. I do have some Aigner accessories that came with the saw but for the most part have seen limited use. Steve
I am interested in the purchase video idea. Keep the great videos coming!
Excellent series Steve! Perpetually in demand is an explanation of the standard 5 cut method of squaring the carriage fence to the blade to ensure 90º cuts are accurate. Once you have some spare panel pieces it might be good to show that process.
Thanks Kevin, that is probably a good idea. Steve
I prefer the 3 cut method for squaring 4’x8’ panels using the cross cut fence.
I would be very interested in your "considerations for purchase" video. Your experience and insights would be valuable. Thanks for another good video.
Dan, thanks for the feedback. Steve
Oh, yes, please, please do a series on considerations for purchasing of a slider -- especially selection and what to ask for, useful and essential options, and techniques for buying a good used machine privately or at auction. Also, I'm extremely interested in the mechanics of getting the monster delivered and off the truck, positioned, set up, and commissioned. As I recall, a mutual friend (and author of a useful, but out-of-print book) in the Felder group suggested he was hit with a surprise additional $2K to hire a rigger, flatbed truck, and forklift to get his Felder Format Kappa 400 from the local motor carrier's terminal and into his shop -- and this was in addition to what Felder had already charged for shipping. To this I can only screem, "EEEEEEK!" Or as Chester A. Riley might say, "What a revoltin' development this is."
Steve, after watching the install of the air clamps, I must mention that the best drill bits are the 135 degree metric metal working bits from Snap-On. These, even with hand held work, will get rid of the burr and make life quicker for you. Freight is included in the price. I live close to the Crystal Lake office and am 1 day away from delivery on most items. Beware that some of the CS people are new to the specs and can misunderstand your request. Get a catalog. I bought my first set of Snap-On bits back in the 80's and find them to be a good value in the long run or when drilling into cast iron tables with jigs.
Hi Steve, Thanks for the videos on panel saw set up and maintenance, I have an old panel saw which is basic but accurate and I would like to fit it with a digital readout , is this possible
I haven't done such an upgrade myself so it is hard to say. Ramon Valdez did a Tigerfence upgrade on his Hammer rip fence so you may want to check his channel. I am sure there are options out there but, I haven't had the need to research that. Steve
I recently invested in a Felder KF700 saw/shaper. Therefore I'm less interested in purchase ideas, but would love to learn about a) blade choices. hook angle etc and differences from cabinet saw choices b) review of Mac's clamps after you've used them for a while c) set up / adjustment of the saw especially leveling the sliding table relative to base d) homemade zero clearance inserts
Hi Schmidt Woodworks. a) I have built a caddy for my blades and have a wide variety of brands and types. That may be a good topic to cover. b) On Mac's clamps, I am really impressed by the quality and is almost indescribable. The ends of the shafts are rounded over (not chamfered) and have a wonderful finish. c) On the sliding table setup, it has been 13 years since I have done this (on a Felder CF741) and can't claim proficiency on that. Since you asked, I assume Felder still ships the longer tables separated from the saw. You will probably get much better advice on this topic in the Felder Owners Group (the original FOG) forum over on Yahoo. The Martin comes with the sliding table attached and it hasn't been touched since it left the factory. d) On the zero clearance inserts, I tried this on the Martin and it works but I didn't care for the setup. The Felder saws have a much better setup for zero clearance inserts than the Martin. For a while, John R. on the FOG, made these out of phenolic and sold them for a very reasonable price. I don't know if he still does this.
Steve
Hi Steve, on the bottom left of the Martin you have a pair of jigs, they almost look like the Aigner Deflectors? I would also be interested in any additional jigs you have made for the table saw. Lastly, when you run out of things on the Martin. A similar series on the Felder Format4 Shaper would be great!
Hi Tony, One of them is an Aigner deflector that was modified by installing MagSwitches. The spacing of the rear switch is too far back and will not attach to the stainless outfeed table so I rarely use it. The other is my shop made version which is shorter so works a bit better but is very hard to remove once installed. They are so well stored out of the way, I seldom remember I even have them.
I'll have to think about the shaper series. Next month I'll find out how much I don't know at the Alpine Advanced Shaper Course.
Steve
I would love to see some videos on how your methods of work changed you switched to a slider. What do you do differently on your slider? Are there things that you used to do with a jig on a table saw, or a miter saw, or something else that you now do on your slider? Are there things that you expected to do on your slider, that you've switched to using another tool for because the slider just doesn't do it well? How has having a slider changed your designs?
Thanks for the feedback Michael. It certainly changed the way I work. The biggest obstacle was getting over habits I previously used on the cabinet saw. I have a few accessories with the saw and have ditched every tablesaw jig I had. The Fritz & Franz jig if pretty much the only jig used with the slider and it is really more of an accessory now. I don't care too much for dados on the slider even though I can get good results. Most of my dados are used in drawer construction so I pretty much default to the shaper for that and with the Domino, I have gotten away for dados in construction joints anyway. I seldom use a miter saw in the shop as the slider performs these tasks much better. Interesting thoughts on a video for this as I had not really considered it as a topic. Steve
I would be interested in the purchase ideas the videos are great and I enjoy them very much.
Ken, thank you for the feedback. I was thinking there would be some interest in this. Steve
Nice video. Made me get a Martin..lol
May I ask what oil you use for the sliding table?
Congratulations. Martin should have provided a liter of lubricant for the pad with the machine. Steve
@@extremewoodworker nope I never got one and I spoke to the rep who sold it to me, he told me to use pneumatic tool oil?
What are your thoughts?
@@kingparch I would call Martin and ask Al what to use. It is a very light weight oil so I suspect pneumatic oil would be okay but it never hurts to check.
MARTIN is really the BEST !!!
Hi Steve,
Thanks for making the videos you have made so far. As someone who has owned a Martin for sometime are there other jigs you have made in the past besides the Fritz and Franz unit that has made the use of the Martin safer/easier. Thanks.
Thank you. I haven't made any jigs other than the Fritz and Franz for the Martin. I do have some Aigner accessories that came with the saw but for the most part have seen limited use. Steve
Oh, no, your soup strainer is MIA.
Yeah, the area had to be clear cut to make way for a new dermatology gold mine. They didn't tell me it was going to be a strip mine. LOL Steve