Working on setting up an exhaust vent for my x1c and XL from both enclosures to a single duct, up into the ceiling and over the beam out the soffit of the attic. I think this channel is about to be my life for the next few days haha. Thanks for the awesome content.
Love seeing large parts like that bent pipe. I often have irrational hesitance to print such large parts, so I tend not to think of 3D printing to solve that kind of problem, when there's no reason to avoid it.
You're still going to have a similar problem. The warm air is going to make it to your cutoff and condense there. Water will go everywhere when you open it. You need to make a condensation trap, basically a u-bend in the horizontal pipe up top with a drain at the bottom with a ball valve or similar. That way you can drain away the excess water far away from the cutter.
Possibly, but I don't think so. There is a lot of "air leaks" in the enclosure for the laser cutter/engraver, which it needs to let air in to replace the smoky air you're exhausting out. These air leaks were allowing a constant low-volume backflow in the duct. I think with this new blast gate closed, there shouldn't be any flow in the vent, meaning the air will just be at rest and remain the same temp as the basement. Remember, it's an exhaust, we're never drawing air in, so with no flow, in theory, there should never be "outside air" in the duct. Only time will tell, but you know if it doesn't work, we'll be back to 3d print something here to fix it again and I'll cover it on the channel :)
Nice work. Suggestion: leave a small gap where the slot in the back meets the wall. That way, any debris that is in the gate will fall out. Otherwise it can just collect then the insert won’t fully close. I made some gates that are not wall mounted but are more for hanging use. I’m a hobby woodworker. My files are on Printables.
I'm going to use this as inspiration to finally create a dual gate for my solid fuel forge and hook up an electric blower. That way, I can switch to it when I want to do production forging, not just fun forging, or forge welding.
If you put the blast gate on the elbow but oriented vertically, the cracks in the gate will allow the condensation, which you still have a problem with, drip out
I'm pretty sure one of the Orca contributors said this is not a bug and is expected behavior. They claimed that there was a debate on whether outer overhang walls should take on the bridge speed or overhang speed and they ultimately decided on bridge. There is an option called " Slow down for curled perimeters" that can override this.
Your videos are petty awesome, keep up the good work! . Got some hvac tips for ya. The reason why it sucked through that vent pipe into your laser engraver is because your house is a negative, open a window and your air won’t suck in that pipe. The air goes out of your house has to come back in weather you like it or not. If you actually add a fresh air intake to your return ductwork closer to the furnace. Make sure that won’t be sucking exhaust fumes in-either. Intake should be 6ft away from other vent pipes. That will solve your problem, has to be insulated though. This will pressure your house pushing air out of your house. If your dryer or bathroom is on it’s the same principle and will make a negative in your house.
Awesome work, I personally would have made 2 gates, just me being me and not sure how your duct looks where its exiting the building but would definitely have something there so dust can't make it inside the duct, that is a huge problem where I stay and the thing I would worry about is when opening the gate after a few weeks and the dust that collected on the horizontal part of the gate. Any love the Chanel and thanks for the awesome content
I used a gravity louver dryer vent (6") and it's got like 4 louvers than when the fan is off they drop and make an almost completely air tight closure, never had air back flow through it.
Thinking that the elbow with the neck down for size might also have been a good place for a mounting clip option, drop a 2x4 from where the blast gate is, straight down to the floor, and have a rigid point to mount that elbow, and you would reduce even more the amount of vibration that might get in, perhaps even protect from the hose slipping off the blast bgate. (Though that could probably be done with a neck down in the fitting on the blast gate to clampdown to a slightly smaller surface there as well.) Nice work.
Maybe a styrofoam ball could act as a gravity-activated valve? Just have the neckdown vertical, a ball above, and a catch to stop it from flowing away...
I love this channel, pratical implementations. How long do your designs take? Would love to see a complete design video (in the software); with practical tips and tricks for designing for 3D printing. When you print the models with support, is that just normal model-material for the supports as well? Or do you use the special support-material? Using the AMS to automatically switch materials. If you use model-material, why do you NOT use support-material?
That ventilation tube is really appalling stuff to work with and look at. I know there is nothing else that makes sense from a financial point of view, solid welded stainless looks fantastic, but the price! I think the whole thing absolutely looks and works as best if can. The shut off valve works well with the fettling, although I find a dry silicone spray really helps to lubricate plastics. Nice job again.
Your projects are great! I really like watching it and it gives me inspirations for my projects. Keep it up man!
Working on setting up an exhaust vent for my x1c and XL from both enclosures to a single duct, up into the ceiling and over the beam out the soffit of the attic. I think this channel is about to be my life for the next few days haha. Thanks for the awesome content.
Man that is awesome...a mechanical sliding gate..very cool!
Keep em coming!!!!
What a good take on the whole overhang story.
thx, I try not to take sides and just call stuff as I see it
Love seeing large parts like that bent pipe. I often have irrational hesitance to print such large parts, so I tend not to think of 3D printing to solve that kind of problem, when there's no reason to avoid it.
You're still going to have a similar problem. The warm air is going to make it to your cutoff and condense there. Water will go everywhere when you open it. You need to make a condensation trap, basically a u-bend in the horizontal pipe up top with a drain at the bottom with a ball valve or similar. That way you can drain away the excess water far away from the cutter.
Possibly, but I don't think so. There is a lot of "air leaks" in the enclosure for the laser cutter/engraver, which it needs to let air in to replace the smoky air you're exhausting out. These air leaks were allowing a constant low-volume backflow in the duct. I think with this new blast gate closed, there shouldn't be any flow in the vent, meaning the air will just be at rest and remain the same temp as the basement. Remember, it's an exhaust, we're never drawing air in, so with no flow, in theory, there should never be "outside air" in the duct. Only time will tell, but you know if it doesn't work, we'll be back to 3d print something here to fix it again and I'll cover it on the channel :)
Nice work. Suggestion: leave a small gap where the slot in the back meets the wall. That way, any debris that is in the gate will fall out. Otherwise it can just collect then the insert won’t fully close.
I made some gates that are not wall mounted but are more for hanging use. I’m a hobby woodworker.
My files are on Printables.
I'm going to use this as inspiration to finally create a dual gate for my solid fuel forge and hook up an electric blower. That way, I can switch to it when I want to do production forging, not just fun forging, or forge welding.
The way you have the reducer designed is constricting the airflow. You should taper the 4" to 2" more.
If you put the blast gate on the elbow but oriented vertically, the cracks in the gate will allow the condensation, which you still have a problem with, drip out
I'm pretty sure one of the Orca contributors said this is not a bug and is expected behavior. They claimed that there was a debate on whether outer overhang walls should take on the bridge speed or overhang speed and they ultimately decided on bridge. There is an option called " Slow down for curled perimeters" that can override this.
Your videos are petty awesome, keep up the good work! . Got some hvac tips for ya. The reason why it sucked through that vent pipe into your laser engraver is because your house is a negative, open a window and your air won’t suck in that pipe. The air goes out of your house has to come back in weather you like it or not. If you actually add a fresh air intake to your return ductwork closer to the furnace. Make sure that won’t be sucking exhaust fumes in-either. Intake should be 6ft away from other vent pipes. That will solve your problem, has to be insulated though. This will pressure your house pushing air out of your house. If your dryer or bathroom is on it’s the same principle and will make a negative in your house.
Thx. I think it's the radon mitigation system. . I think it keeps the whole basement negative.
@@FunctionalPrintFridayyep that will do it too!
Awesome work, I personally would have made 2 gates, just me being me and not sure how your duct looks where its exiting the building but would definitely have something there so dust can't make it inside the duct, that is a huge problem where I stay and the thing I would worry about is when opening the gate after a few weeks and the dust that collected on the horizontal part of the gate. Any love the Chanel and thanks for the awesome content
I used a gravity louver dryer vent (6") and it's got like 4 louvers than when the fan is off they drop and make an almost completely air tight closure, never had air back flow through it.
Excellent Stuff!!!
If that forced the forks to patch, it is a net positive. A win for everyone.
I like it! Future project for my Falcon 2 Pro
Nice project. Very neat
Thinking that the elbow with the neck down for size might also have been a good place for a mounting clip option, drop a 2x4 from where the blast gate is, straight down to the floor, and have a rigid point to mount that elbow, and you would reduce even more the amount of vibration that might get in, perhaps even protect from the hose slipping off the blast bgate. (Though that could probably be done with a neck down in the fitting on the blast gate to clampdown to a slightly smaller surface there as well.) Nice work.
Maybe a styrofoam ball could act as a gravity-activated valve? Just have the neckdown vertical, a ball above, and a catch to stop it from flowing away...
I love this channel, pratical implementations.
How long do your designs take? Would love to see a complete design video (in the software); with practical tips and tricks for designing for 3D printing.
When you print the models with support, is that just normal model-material for the supports as well? Or do you use the special support-material? Using the AMS to automatically switch materials. If you use model-material, why do you NOT use support-material?
1) any particular reason you didnt just modify the case of the engraver to accept 4"?
2) an anemometer is a great household tool :)
Why not use TPU for the sliding part? It would help close off the gaps by being nice and tight, yet still allow pulling out / pushing in.
That ventilation tube is really appalling stuff to work with and look at. I know there is nothing else that makes sense from a financial point of view, solid welded stainless looks fantastic, but the price! I think the whole thing absolutely looks and works as best if can. The shut off valve works well with the fettling, although I find a dry silicone spray really helps to lubricate plastics. Nice job again.
Smooth
link to the 2" metal spring clamps?
What did you use to design it
What material was that printed in?
PLA
Thanks for the idea. I'm going to laser cut me one and use a PVC pipe.
Awesome, just don't try and cut any PVC in the laser. Nasty stuff
Yes, agreed. A saw for the slot will suffice. Laser the other mount pieces only.
Prusa are of no obligation to tell anyone anything, just to release the code per the open source license.