TFS: TIG Simple - Does it Matter How You Sharpen Tungsten?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- The ultimate question... "Does it matter how you sharpen tungsten?" Maybe... In today's TIG Simple episode, Justin the Fabricator investigates different ways to sharpen a tungsten and compares them to one another. Surprisingly, it needs more investigation.
Tell us what you think in the comments below!
Tools & Gear We Use and Recommend
www.amazon.com...
Want to earn how to TIG? Take a class!
thefabricatorse...
More TIG Simple vids coming soon!
Subscribe to my channel for MORE!
Check out the website: www.TheFabricat...
Like: / thefabricato. .
Follow: IG @The.Fabricator / the.fabricator
Dont matter how i sharpen my tungsten, i find after 5 minutes i have dipped and have to do it again anyways.
Takes me about 28 seconds...lol
same here HAHA
5 minutes! good for you I'm still at the 5 to 15 second before dipping. LOL, it's a learning curve that looks like a cliff to climb.
LOL!!! Dip your tip club.. I think TFS needs a tshirt for guys like us....
@@lincolnbelt7350 I'd like to apply for membership, please. The 3-5 seconds tier for me!
Well, if you check 'Miller info', you find that you have an inverse relationship between extreme taper and amps, so that the higher the amps, the lower angle you should use (to preserve tip life). HOWEVER, as you kinda showed here, sharper angles lead to PRECISION spots...so it comes down to what you are trying to do...22-gauge sheet lap-welds? severe angle (say, 15-20 degrees). 1/8" wall stainless tubing? robust angle at say, 25-28 degrees. The 'grind finish' is actually important, too...the finish being smoother will actually lead to tighter heat zones and 'more distinguished' heat bands...vs rough finish giving a more dispersed heat band...I personally haven't got the CNC or 'steady hand' enough to see if it impacts the actual weld 'smoothness' or not, but my first guess would be 'it should'.
I'm better at sharpening tungsten than welding haha
I tig welded for the first time the other day and I got to say, I got really good at sharpening tungsten.
😂🤣 started welding. Ended up sharpening the tungsten.
As Justin says.. keep practicing
Same
Just bought my first tig welder. Lincoln 200. I suck at welding getting good at sharpening
I completely think it matters. I use a 4" flat diamond grinding wheel from Harbor Freight. $8. Only used to sharpen tungsten. I use it in the field, in the shop, and at home. On a angle grinder with the tungsten in a drill. I get a perfect finish on the tungsten with minimal dust. 👍🏼
if you polish the tungsten on a finer grit to remove the grinding pattern(scratches), it doesn't matter. Another great option is to finish it in chemical sharpening to refine the point and remove the grinding patern. Sodium nitrate or nitrite in a small dish with a torch heated tip, just dip in in for a second or two and the sirface finish will be beautiful. The reaction is very hot, so the red hot tip with quickly go white hot as the reaction strips metal from the surface of the electrode. You can do the entire process in the chem, but it takes a minute. I use it for refinishing or repointing and I love it. Fast, consistent and very effective.
Excellent video! Setting the tungsten to a consistent depth would improve your testing consistency. It appears that cone angle makes the largest difference. Thanks again for a great comparison.
Yes the grind matters. You do not want it to be ground helically as this will cause arc wander. During arc on periods there is an electron flow going down the tungsten to the work piece. If your tungsten is not longitudinally grained/polished and has a helical grain you will get arc wander. This is caused by the electron flow being scattered off of the tip of the tungsten due to the circumferential graining redirecting some of the electrons. Always grain/polish longitudinally. It is recommended that you leave a very small flat spot on the end of your tungsten grind. The test showed this quite well actually. The nice grained 2nd tungsten with the flat focused the arc the best.
You rock thanks for the input
Great information. Thank you.
I was reading the manual for the Miller Syncrowave 200 I just bought a couple days ago, right before I watched this vid.
Miller recommends a small flat tip on the end of TIG electrodes; stating the size of the flat is relative to the amperage setting. Unfortunately, they don't give specifics, as in, 0.0xx dia for xx amps.
I have no idea if it's correct or not, but my father taught me exactly what you are saying here. Make sure the cut lines go toward the point.
This is really interesting, being a novice in the world of TiG my focus is still on the basics. Love the channel, keep up the great content!
One thing I experienced when having my work xrayed was tungsten ending up in the weld. It was because I was sharpening it to a fine point. The cure was to touch it with the grinder on the tip after sharpening. In my garage I have been using the grinding wheel and it seems to work fine.
I actually prefer not to let the tungsten get red hot while sharpening, dip it in water to keep it cool since it isn't being shielded by argon while out of the torch. I usually just use a belt sander and my hands or a tungsten vice when it gets short.
I use a 4" diamond coated wheel on an angle grinder in place of a flap disk. Can't really comment on quality of arc difference but it sharpens to a point easier and doesn't burn into the disc. I've used my fingers to spin it as well as a drill, I prefer finger spinning it because it seems my drills all end up with an oblong uneven cone shape. (Drill chucks are probably making it wobble)
Kurtis Johnson
I use this method also but use a cordless drill
Dedicated nickel sintered diamond disk always. Too cheap now to pretend old school is better.
I also use this method with a drill
I use the tungsten sharpner you used. But i stick the tungsten in a drill and go straight in the sharpner and lift off and repeat till its sharp. I would never let it get cherry like that.
Why would heating the tungsten while sharpening be an issue? It gets many times hotter while actually welding.
oxidization while sharpening no gas is present
When you let it get cherry red while sharpening all the properties of the cake mix migrate to the tip and evaporate and you end up with pure tungsten. Quick hits on a diamond wheel has always worked good for me.
Theball Player it's an issue because there is no shielding gas around it.
is this true? someone science tell us
Charge accumulates at a point , this is why straight lines would be best on the grind surface
Try sharpening them 180 degrees from the direction you where pointing the end. If the point gets caught by the grinder and it belt it will break the tungsten/tear the belt. Also if you hold them by hand they may shoot into your leg if the tip gets caught. Always sharpen anything with the end facing the rotational direction of the tool.
I use 2% Thoriated (red) for pipe welding. Hazardous if inhaled, but it can be sharpened many more times before becoming to brittle to tolerate. I've been told that sharpening grooves should go in the direction of the tip, slightly blunted at end to avoid tungsten inclusions, and I choose diamond rotary bits for sharpening to reduce the color change in this video, by keeping lower temperatures in the process for longevity of use. I've always stayed with a tip similar to the appearances of a #2 pencil, as opposed to a golf pencil. 1/16, 3/32, & 1/8 for applications depending of root, fill, & cap. I'm interested to see if your tests verify my teachings. Thank you for showing the why & how it's best.
I'm merely just another simple pipe welder on nuclear powered submarine overhaul, always a student, always looking for the best ways to improve myself, & skilled craftsmanship.
I use the bench grinder but I use the side of it. This way you can control the grain by how fast you spin the drill
I generally have a really steep point angle of 60° whilst you are running something like 75°. So my point is still really pointy but it has a blunt angle.
Would be fun and interesting to see if that makes any differemce .
I was tought that a less pointy tungsten is better for penetration and a pointy one like yours just makes tge arc wide which pushes the amperage higher without any added speed or penetration.
So many debates about this where I used to work.... Greatly appreciate the video!
I'm an amateur. I have 3 primary tungsten sharpening methods.
1. Drill / Bench grinder with diamond wheel
2. Belt grinder
3. Drill / Bench grinder with alum. oxide wheel
for the life of me, I cannot discern a difference between them. I've even done experimentation and can barely see a difference between grinding radially vs axially, although on aluminum, the arc wanders more when ground radially. On steel and stainless, it's not really apparent to me. I prefer the belt grinder, with a 400 or 600 grit belt. Takes a few seconds to get an almost polished tip. When using the drill, I don't rev it up too much, only 100 rpm or so. I exclusively use 2% lanthanated electrodes in 1/16, 3/32, and very rarely 1/8th diameters. I weld aluminum, steel, and stainless.
Used to do mine "old school" by hand, on a belt sander.. in less time than it takes you to find your drill and chuck the tungsten up.. Just saying, that pratting around time should be included in the total...
really depends how close to hand your drill is i guess. mines usually on the bench where i work so it would be a quick pick up
I use one of those expensive things to sharpen it and I prefer to have the electrode angle around 31º (usually weld between 280-500 amp). I get the same result every time, it takes 1-3 seconds to do it. Oh and I do it by the book, grind it like a cone.
Sharper electrode = slightly more penetration in case someone want to know. Too much, become clumsy. Too little and you cover a smaller area and it can be inconvenient.
Tungsten sharpened with a tungsten sharpener then polishing wheel. This makes for a great and steady arc.
I use the dremel plastic shield with a notch cutout on it for the tungsten. I stick the tungsten in a drill and spin slowly. How high the wheel is set to determines the sharpened angle.
I use a bench grinder 99% of the time.
If it has to be dead nuts perfect text-book, irreplaceable, family heirloom, one of a kind, super tiny, "You have only one shot, so don't mess up!!", I have a Dremel that I clamp to the table, and a few special pieces of wood as a jig to grind the tungsten just right.
not matter how,but its the shape at the end ,the outcome of the grinding angle u use...
Great video I make my W sharp just like the 2nd grinder. the way it's cone is long and very thin where it makes a point is the best for me. I use a drill for the W and another drill for a ceramic cylinder. don't know what it's made up of but WORKS well. I bought it off eBay from China.
have you ever tried chem-sharp? it's different but unique and effective should give a perfect result and it is easy if you're lazy or too busy to get to the grinder
I use a dremel attachment and hold the tungsten with a three jawed pin vice
So I’m sure it’s been asked but I don’t want to go through 100s of comments… but why forward towards grinder rotation when grinding the tungsten instead of dragging the tungsten away from rotation ?
Nice video I've started using diamond coated tungsten sharpeners to sharpen mine that fit your average grinder. Works amazing . I order them off ebay
I’ve found that having my upper body nice and stiff, and straight. It makes it easier, but then. I occasionally get pains in my knees and it takes me a bit to stand back up 😂😂😂. Also occasionally I’ll use a clamp, clamp it somewhere on the frame of the welding table and use that as a support for my arm, thankfully I can weld with both hands aswell which has made it a lot quicker for me
Have you tried chemical sharpening?? Dynaflux Chem Sharp Tungsten Electrode Sharpener is available thru Amazon For a reasonable price. Chem sharp will allow you to sharpen your Tungsten to a needle sharp point if you wanted to.
Just sorta thinking out loud here; as we're dealing with a plasma, couldn't electromagnets be used to focus and shape the plasma so there's less dependence on how one sharpens the electrode?
Curious to see what it would be like finely sharpened and then polished up using actual metal polish, I remember seeing a video of this a while ago but no results were posted.
I use tungsten sharpener only i put my tungsten in thr drill when spinning it , it gives u much better results and if you want to go even farther you can take ur tungsten to buffing wheel and buff out remaining scratches, grinding wheel i used before but with 150grid wheel worked good , the only complaint i get is that wheel gets destroyed quick with tungsten , so i went out and got diamond wheel for my bench grinder , works really good and thsts what i use most of thr time even though i do have actual tungsten grinder , but bench grinder with diamond wheel is just always there , its just convenient for me , when i go outside my shop i do take tungsten sharpener with me .
Hey Justin, I am sure that you're familiar with the TungstenMate; can your share your thoughts on that? Worth it? Avoid it? Seems Cool? Snake Oil?
I usually sharpen on a fine grit diamond wheel, or Chemsharp....Perfectly smooth taper, no grind marks.
Why does the metal after hitting it with touch and feed wire bubbles on metal an rise up or bugger up
The functional usability of sharpened tungsten is determined by the outcome of the shaping and not necessarily by the method you choose to use in getting there. In your video, all of your angles and surface textures were different. Even the testing height above the work piece was not kept uniform. Your comparative testing results therefore are invalid.
I se a bench grinder for sharpening tungsten holding it in a drill and it works fine.
Can you please sharpen a tungsten for TIG welding with a cutting torch
Ty Negan for the info!
What about Chem Sharp? And consistent arch lengths?
Does the shape of the point play a role? In the second one, the point seemed to have smallest area that are in close proximity to the surface, the result was cleaner after the first arc firing test. I also suspect if the result would be even more cleaner if it was done in vacuum of air and dust after the second one.
Ding, ding, ding, ding! The taper has the biggest impact, with the finish being next.
He would need to get the exact same taper with each method for this test to be of any value.
Jody at welding tips and tricks has a definitive video on how the taper affects the arc.
I have used a much to large of a tungsten the weld to low of amps,. trick was a very long taper,. way long,. also with this the tungsten acts like a heat sink and will help suck the heat when you stop welding,. since the taper was very very long, it starts up fast and stabilizes fast, but when you let off the pedal, the heat from the tip is sucked into the thicker mass of the tungsten,. not saying it's the best way, but it does work good, now on green tip pure Tung, grind it the same and then ball the end, it helps to keep the ball from getting too big, but all n all. to all there own
+ Jeremy b I don't even buy 1/16" tungstens any more, just 3/32" and 1/8" and do exactly what you're saying....it works!
The shape of the point plays a big role. The shape of the point plays a much bigger role than the method of sharpening the tungsten does.
The smoother that tungsten is the better… 180 grit belt for final.
To be honest none of your grinding methods ends with good grinding and welding results..!! The tungsten electrode should be ground should be ground with the grinding lines parallel to the axis of the electrode..do the electrons will be concentrated and the arc will not be waving around and results in difficult manipulation of the electrode and the weld will be with little penetration..!! Of course you are a very good welder ..no doubt..!
Michalis Hadjiannis -Welding Instructor from Cyprus
What happened to the revisit lol 5years and still waiting lol
have you used the chem sharp?
Весьма позновательно, я предпологал что есть зависимость но наглядно вижу в первые. Спасибо за видио.
Belt sander and kept as smooth as possible
How about on aluminum?
Depends on the machine. IGBT machines, take it to a point. Old school transformers, ball that sucker.
Although this is interesting id rather keep sharpening them with my scholastic pencil sharpener.
Dang. I'm cussin' out RUclips for crappy compressed out-of-focus video of your tungsten points and it was you doing it all the time! I want to weld but I don't have anything that needs welding.
how about the chem sharp? what do you think of that stuff?
i use a drill to hold and spin my tungsten on a belt sander
I have seen the tungsten sharpened with a cutting torch. can you do a demo on this process.
James Last I don't own a cutting torch.
no worries. I have seen it done, was just wondering the results. thank you though.
good video . Thanks !
What I cant believe you didnt include chemsharp
And yes a rare time to use DC+
I have ground mine along the diameter and really cant tell the difference on steel or stainless steel
It makes the arc wonder at low amps... not a big deal on big welds, but annoying on edges and at corner starts.
danke
HOLY CRAP this video made my guts turn, I never seen anybody sharpening anything in the opposite direction of a wheel, that's just asking to get it shot in the gut or any part of the body.
that is how you sharpen any round material to a symmetric sharp point
I thought the same thing, I've had stuff get launched before (in my early days while still green) when pushing something opposite the grinding direction. Not fun.
pebbles19871980 I see it all the time, its a good way when you are in a pinch.
pebbles19871980 I thought the same thing to. Good vid tho
The same things works just fine if you hold the rod against the portion of the wheel/disc spinning away from you, but is far less likely to grab the rod and shove it toward/through you.
The angles are no constant so the arcs will not be same.
SuperFunk you are correct and they all were different lengths from the material
I was thinking the same thing. Should have tried to get the same angle and even do a couple with the same tool but different angles
Isn't it a rule of thumb that the "cone" height you grind should be 3x the diameter? Also the grind marks should be parallel to the tungsten rod - otherwise you introduce turbulence into the plasma.
@@luv2ski80007 how would you sharpen your tungsten to make it parallel? Any particular angle you like? Just getting started out
@@kamilzarzycki3866 what I've always done (it's kind of sketchy) but hold the tungsten up and down, and then at like a 60° angle push it into the belt sander or grindstone, be gentle or else it'll jump out of and stab into your hands..
You should try the diamond wheel inside of a Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener, just as good as a tungsten grinder.
OK...found this channel by accident...but I like it and subscribed...but let me tell you why..
I've been fabricating race cars, off road toys and doing special effects for the movies for oh say 30 years...And got pretty good at it...BUT you will never hear me say "I know it all..."
actually love to watch other good guys to see how they do their fab and guess what? I always learn a new thing or two, or a better way of doing something...and I've had guys with years in the business learn a thing or two from me...so bring it on!
Thanks for taking the time do do these videos!
I usually use the bench grinder or belt sander, but I was taught to point the tungsten downward in the same direction the grinder/sander is moving. I think depending on the results you are trying to achieve, there is also alittle wiggle room with the angle you hold the tungsten to the grinder.
I like to sharpen my tungsten on my way to work... Just open my door on the freeway and sharpen them on the pavement.
The Quizzle 😂😂😂
The Quizzle dammit, this whole time I was rubbing mine on a rock down by the river...
You can't use your teeth? Huh, amateur..
Sean Power you use your teeth pssshhh i twist mine in my ass like a pencil sharpener n boom perfect point
Ban all automobile tungsten grinding!!!!!
I use a flap disk 120 or 220 grit and hit it with red and green Scotch-Brite pad after it sharp when you give it a good polish and weld's super great for me.
Zack Thomas nice idea, ill try that out tomorrow 😁
yes thats what I do, i use the belt sander at 120grit with a blue belt then the scotchbright to polish the tip and it works great in stainless using the smaller cups.
Doesn't that introduce aluminum oxide impurities from the scotch brite? I've never heard of this technique. I will try it.
Try a gauge block to ensure the same gap between the point of the tungsten and the coupon. Also make sure you have the same tungsten stick out. Interesting video.
I use a diamond wheel from a chainsaw sharpening kit that harbor freight sales. It's on my 4.5" angle grinder and chuck my tungsten in my drill takes about 3 seconds. I also made a small guide block that attaches to the handle so I'm the grinds are always consistent
like to see ur set up post a pic or vid about it thoug
Yeah, really
I have a chain saw sharpening tool, I want to set it up to take advantage of the angle setting gage to get as consistent as possible grinds. Has anyone done this?
#1...Please take a breath between sentences.. Thanks.........;-)
I use a dedicated bench grinder with a finer wheel, tungsten chucked up in a 3/8" drill. Then get rid of the grinder marks with a 2" diameter 320 grit 3M roloc wheel on a 90 degree air grinder, with the hand drill stuck on the bench, stationary...
The extremely sharp tungsten come out POLISHED....VERY smooth and consistent arc...no wandering at all...I also check with a 10X jewelers loupe in very good light for grinder marks...The grinder marks have a tendency to make the arc wander with my machine...(A 1989 Linde 250HF Square Wave with a Bernard water cooler, HW20 torch.)
Try grinding one with a twist or spiral and another with the scratches running straight down the tungsten and one with a smooth finish . Then test it up close to a wall to simulate welding the bottom of a hole. You'll find the straight down and the smooth will weld the bottom only and the twist will arc against the side wall also .
Point the end that is being sharped toward the direction of rotation of the sharpener. Doing so will avoid foreign matter inclusion in the tungsten. It will also aid in several other ways. Don't allow the tungsten to get very hot while sharpening in order to avoid oxidation. Follow up with a type of buffing wheel to polish the grind marks out of the tungsten. Something like a scotch bright wheel should do the trick.
I was wondering about that, actually. Other videos have told me to always make the striations go towards the tip, too, but in this video he did the opposite. Thanks for explaining why it's important!
Not the author or anyone commenting has mentioned the safety problem of radioactive dust from sharpening thoriated tungsten electrodes or that breathing the tungsten dust period, is just bad... Though he is showing steel, it is inexcusable to omit the safety aspect if you want to use thoriated electrodes for aluminum.
Use a silicon carbide wheel on the bench grinder. It makes an enormous difference. Also dress it properly with a diamond dresser. I don't even bother with those hand held tungsten sharpeners. I can make perfect sharp points every time by hand. Use a pin vise to hold the tungsten if it gets too short.
I use a diamond wheel, tungsten in drill and never let it get red hot.
I was surprised that you allowed the tungsten to get red hot. I personally don't think burning it is a good idea.
@@fjauke Doesn't really do anything. Red heat is still a good 1000C away from the melting point and you use even higher heat on it in normal use. The exact reason that it's tungsten is because it can operate at ridiculous temps
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644
Yes it does get hotter when you weld but it's also shielded with argon when you weld.
Great work Justin!!
How about trying to polish a tungsten and try a balled tungsten too?
Maybe different ways to ball?
You need to grind them all AT THE SAME TAPER, if you don't they arc will behave differently. So re-do the grinds a bit more precisely to match the tig grinder taper and see how they perfom.
Hi there! I use the bench grinder, but on the side of the wheel, very much similar to your using the disc grinder. Is it possible for you to include this method in the comparison? Thanks!
chuck norris uses a pencil sharpner
I thought he used his teeth.
Pink Puffin no he holds the tungsten with his teeth and feeds the filler with his earlobes
oh please... everyone knows chuck norris heats his electrode red hot then licks it. kinda like chemsharp.
i heard a rumor about chuck norris using his belly button but that just sounds ridiculous.
Chuck Norris doesn't use a welder he just tells the metal to fuse.
Psh welder? He pushes the metal together and they fuse. When hes bored he'll stike the arc with his finger...
i bench grind and dip in water to cool , i get my point like a needle . the other guys sharpen on the side of the bg wheel ,it come out looking like a wood screw
silentraven37 !
Thats rediculous. Everyone knows sharpening on the side of the wheel is only used by underwater wood welders.
does it make a difference how you sharpen a tungsten? Yes. Does it really matter how you sharpen ? No, any medium skilled welder can work around the minute differences.
Been welding for years and i just use the tool that have available at that moment. How i sharpened my tungsten has never been the source of a bad weld.
mike dierickx I decided to stay off the comments on this vid just because it's a no win situation for anyone arguing. However, your comment is definitely one I agree with fully, and would like to say thanks. It's straight forward.
I agree. I've sharpened the tungsten so many thousands of times and I've never found any issue - Sometimes I pay a little more attention when the job is more sensitive - welding stainless is one instance - and you need to avoid contamination....in those cases I'm just careful to keep the tungsten cool during sharpening. I've always kept the grind pointing along tungsten for final grind.
Often I'll rough grind the tungsten if I need to shape it a fair bit, like when its new or I've touched the tungsten to the work and there's a glob of steel on it. But in the end, think of how dirty the tungsten gets after its done a few inches of weld. If its not too blunt, it still does its job fairly consistently. The grind just needs to be as good as that most of the time.
Yes as long as you finish any radial sharpening with some parallel sharpening you'll be fine. I've never used a drill bit just turned the tungsten in my hand and it's always been highly uniform that way.
exactly this
When you powered up your welder I expected it to say "Good morning, Michael. Where are we going today?" lol
I was expecting it to say "Subscribe", I may be watching too much This Old Tony. haha
Momp, Good one!
When I started TIG back in the days of dinosaurs we used the disc method (option 4).
Specialized tools as a tungsten sharpener seem overkill for spot welding nickel packages. Guess in industrial use time concerns and productivity come into play in the equation.
It could be worth while spending 30 sec.+ on sjarpening if you use it for occasional sharpening.
If you end up having to redo it 40 times a day, that extra 20 minutes spent can match 100 completed spots or items in my case.
That would equate to some 10% loss of productivity.
Sorry Justin, this video didn’t teach us anything. Take all the variables out when trying to do a 1:1.
Why do you always sharpen with the wheel or disk rotation towards the end and not away from the end of the tungsten? I'm looking forward to using my new Yeswelder 250 a/c d/c Tig welder. I am a beginner in Florida. 61 years old
i cringed waiting on the flap wheel to blow up
I am not a professional, so that being said....
From what I have seen and read grinding marks should be in line with the tungsten body, that is, parallel, not at an angle like the 4th one in your grind samples. Probable best having none if possible.
I grind using either an Harbor Frieght small grinder with a diamond wheel or a Baldor with a diamond wheel: Better results with the Baldor, as expected. I use a drill like you, but run it much slower as to try to reduce the circular diagonal cuts.
I use a green wheel like used to grind carbide for tool bits for machining, seems to work good.
I feel the consistency of the tungsten grinder is the way to go, But being too cheap to buy one I use the bench grinder and drill method. I will be in search of a Diamond wheel for the bench grinder. Love the arc focus of the diamond ground tungsten. It's all about control.
check with Harbor Freight they have some cheap diamond wheels
i use the diamond wheels from HF (item#69658 ) on one of there 3" Mini Tool Grinder. It makes a great little dedicated setup that fit on the welding cart.
Yes, that is the same HF one on my bench as well.
Great video. I was thinking about buying a tungsten sharpener, but as a hobbyist with low skill level, I think I can get a sharp point with what I have. Thanks
Sorry dude but I think your test went to shit when you didn't have the same taper or point sharpness. If not then it did for sure when you failed to get arc distance even close to the same. Would have been easy to use some sort of gauge...
I tried a tungsten sharpener an enclosed kind and the dust entered the bearing, it seized up.
In order to make this an accurate test the angle and length of the grind would need to be the same on all tungstens, as well as, the distance from the tip to the work piece. Some fixturing should be used to eliminate these variables and make the setup repeatable accurate. It was a good first attempt and brings into play the control variables. Like the angle of the grind. You could setup another test grinding the tips with the same method but, changing the length of the angle to show it's arc characteristics.
whaaa? You are supposed to sharpen those? Meh, just turn up the heat :)
What about grinding it on the side of the bench grinder wheel?
Diamond 4" bench grinder wheel,1" wide..had it for years and still works like no other
I'm purely a hobbyist but i use the diamond wheels from HarborFright on one of there 3" Mini Tool Grinder. It makes a great little dedicated setup that fit on the
welding cart.
Pic please.
Angle AGAINST the rotation?? Brave man..
That is the first thing I noticed and wondered why he was going it that way. Counter intuitive to me.
@@TheDaumen Especially with a disc. If you hook into that paper, watch out!
what about chemical sharpening ? ...... i'd also be curious about a hammer forged tip tungsten point .
I sharpen on a bench grinder but with the rotation away from the point. The helical pattern makes the puddle swirl a bit. Kind of hard to explain how, but it makes it easier than if you had a smooth point
sorry you wasted so much time on this.... Not much consistency? Go with the drill and bench grinder. Can't get any better!
Kiulama Kalama Not a waste at all. It's all i go for those who need regardless of the result. That's what's important.
Very nice editing. Maybe try some gauge blocks to set all stick outs the same and height to workpiece the same.
careful using sharp tungsten next to your gauge blocks if they're steel ones, tungsten is harder than steel and will scratch it
i would like to see the test with a fine stone grinder wheel but the tungsten down, not up, down avoids any kick back, but i think it has finer marks on it also,
in then i think it's more in the hands of the welder,
there's a bit of input you asked for,
even the side of the wheel i use some time just to clean up if i dip it
look forward to your input
I use a harbor Freight $10 diamond disc chucked into my drill press, the tungstens are chucked into hand drill , works great!