good job, nice to see someone else who has the experience to do this without purchasing fancy special tools, old school is a school I have spent many years in.
I had a bad creaking noise on my nearly new rear i9 wheel with torch hub, i brought it to a local shop and they broke it down and cleaned it, which got rid of the noise. It came back in less than 200 miles, so this time i was determined to do the "maintenance" myself. This video was incredibly helpful and well done... THANKS!! (not sure why my dt swiss, novatec, bontrager, or shimano hubs on other bikes dont need this extensive maintenance schedule)
great video! i just did my first freehub service but after putting the cassette back on it seems too close to the wheel and the granny gear keeps slipping, does an NX cassette need a spacer on the freehub first thats maybe missing? I checked the limit screws and indexing etc to no avail
Weird.. not supposed to slip to a higher gear if everything is installed correctly unless you have a 6mm offset chainring. Also check if u need more cable tension.
Well done! All I was looking for is how much of the Dumond grease to use to quiet down the ratchet sound. Looks to be very little grease applied and only on the pawl pockets and spring pockets. If you could reply on the grease amount (I would be more inclined to use too much!) I would appreciate it. thanks again!
Quite frankly if you use too much grease it'll be pushed out as the hub spins. I always recommend putting enough but too much. It will get a bit quiet regardless.
In this case, I9 don't use a spacer here. Remember that what will be rotating mostly is the inner aluminum sleeve that goes across. The rubbing on both bearings will not cause any damage since these rotate same direction. I hope this answers your question.
@@BigDescent To what I understand, once installed in the frame, everything will be "compressed" by the trough axle. Then, everything which is close to the inner aluminum main shaft will be stationary as it's now "fixed" in relation with the frame. The "load path", to me, is as this : Bike frame NDS -> dust cover -> hub bearing inner race -> inner axle shoulders -> hub bearing inner race -> freewheel bearing inner race -> freewheel sleeve ->freewheel bearing inner race->Dust cover DS -> Bike frame DS. The trough axle is compressing all those. When you install the wheel in the frame, smallest sprocket & large ring. Then spin the wheel very fast and let it cruise, does the wheel is putting the crankset in motion ? Because it's what I observe on a wheel I serviced with a I9 hub (not exactly the same though, it's a road version but same conception). When you're cruising downhill, the hub is spinning, but not the freewheel. There, two bearings are facing each other. The one on the hub has his outer race in motion and in front of it, the outer race freewheel bearing which is at stop. If they are too close, of if there is too much grease, the hub will the drive the freehub. So, i installed a 17mm ID 0.25mm thick washer on the axle before putting back the freewheel and it solve the problem. Zipp, Fulcrum and other wheel builders are placing a spacer there, for this reason. Exemple : ruclips.net/video/pcmSFr0_kPk/видео.html I don't say you're wrong. I also looked at the I9 documents and exploded views and there is no washer. But I'd like to know if you notice the same phenomenon after you service your wheel. Thank you.
@@stephanelouvet1113 yes you're correct, and thats why when the trueaxle is over tighten it crushes the bearings. We can say is not the best system, but hey, it spins smooth when properly tighten. Thanks for ypur comments!
My honest advice to you is.. go to their website: industrynine.com/parts/bearings ...and sorf on the left side to the exact hub you have. You'll see different options you can buy in steel and ceramic. Or even as a kit. They're also very good answering calls.
Hi there! The grease I used is just one option of many. If you find a similar one with the same properties, it should be ok. What I like about this grease is that is kind of sticky, so it stays on the paws for long time. I haven't use the Park tools one, so I can't tell.
what size is that socket size you use in ruclips.net/video/mYtplETR9P8/видео.html to support the freehub and remove the bearing ? can you advice me tnx
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good job, nice to see someone else who has the experience to do this without purchasing fancy special tools, old school is a school I have spent many years in.
I completely agree w/you. Thanks dude!
Thanks for the suuuper helpful walkthrough. Saved me from dealing with the shop!
Now I can service my hub with the tools I have. Thank you for sharing. Subscribed.
Nice job. Just built up my first wheelset with torch hubs and looking to learn how to service them myself.
I had a bad creaking noise on my nearly new rear i9 wheel with torch hub, i brought it to a local shop and they broke it down and cleaned it, which got rid of the noise. It came back in less than 200 miles, so this time i was determined to do the "maintenance" myself. This video was incredibly helpful and well done... THANKS!! (not sure why my dt swiss, novatec, bontrager, or shimano hubs on other bikes dont need this extensive maintenance schedule)
Thanks!
Awesome job, man! Was super helpful!
great video! i just did my first freehub service but after putting the cassette back on it seems too close to the wheel and the granny gear keeps slipping, does an NX cassette need a spacer on the freehub first thats maybe missing? I checked the limit screws and indexing etc to no avail
Weird.. not supposed to slip to a higher gear if everything is installed correctly unless you have a 6mm offset chainring. Also check if u need more cable tension.
Great video!!
Thanks dude!!!
Share it and Subscribe!! 🤙
Nice, thank you very much.
Well done! All I was looking for is how much of the Dumond grease to use to quiet down the ratchet sound. Looks to be very little grease applied and only on the pawl pockets and spring pockets. If you could reply on the grease amount (I would be more inclined to use too much!) I would appreciate it. thanks again!
Quite frankly if you use too much grease it'll be pushed out as the hub spins. I always recommend putting enough but too much. It will get a bit quiet regardless.
Hi You got 24 Spoke is this strong wheel system or better 32 spoke?
Definitely a strong wheel. Though maybe too stiff for me. Newer versions are wider and less stiff.
I am sure all the community would like to know where are the links to purchasing your tool box kit of bearing press.
Good video thks
This is no spacer between the freewheel body and the hub ?
Aren't the two bearings to close and rub against each other ?
In this case, I9 don't use a spacer here. Remember that what will be rotating mostly is the inner aluminum sleeve that goes across. The rubbing on both bearings will not cause any damage since these rotate same direction.
I hope this answers your question.
@@BigDescent To what I understand, once installed in the frame, everything will be "compressed" by the trough axle.
Then, everything which is close to the inner aluminum main shaft will be stationary as it's now "fixed" in relation with the frame.
The "load path", to me, is as this :
Bike frame NDS -> dust cover -> hub bearing inner race -> inner axle shoulders -> hub bearing inner race -> freewheel bearing inner race -> freewheel sleeve ->freewheel bearing inner race->Dust cover DS -> Bike frame DS.
The trough axle is compressing all those.
When you install the wheel in the frame, smallest sprocket & large ring. Then spin the wheel very fast and let it cruise, does the wheel is putting the crankset in motion ?
Because it's what I observe on a wheel I serviced with a I9 hub (not exactly the same though, it's a road version but same conception).
When you're cruising downhill, the hub is spinning, but not the freewheel.
There, two bearings are facing each other. The one on the hub has his outer race in motion and in front of it, the outer race freewheel bearing which is at stop.
If they are too close, of if there is too much grease, the hub will the drive the freehub.
So, i installed a 17mm ID 0.25mm thick washer on the axle before putting back the freewheel and it solve the problem.
Zipp, Fulcrum and other wheel builders are placing a spacer there, for this reason.
Exemple : ruclips.net/video/pcmSFr0_kPk/видео.html
I don't say you're wrong. I also looked at the I9 documents and exploded views and there is no washer.
But I'd like to know if you notice the same phenomenon after you service your wheel.
Thank you.
@@stephanelouvet1113 yes you're correct, and thats why when the trueaxle is over tighten it crushes the bearings. We can say is not the best system, but hey, it spins smooth when properly tighten. Thanks for ypur comments!
Hi Big Descent, have you tried to substitute the 3803 (double roll bearing) by
two 6803??
I have not. If you try it let me know how it goes. I've tried the ceramic ones and they roll pretty good. 👍🏼
@@BigDescent ceramic!!! can you guide me which brand you brought?
Last time I bought them, Industry Nine had them. Give em a call.👍🏼
@@BigDescent noted. I using SKF MTRX
bearing. www.skf-mtrx.de/en
What size bearing bodyhub left and right?
Great video. Thank you
Thanks!
Can you please send here the specs of all the bearings? thanks!
My honest advice to you is.. go to their website:
industrynine.com/parts/bearings
...and sorf on the left side to the exact hub you have. You'll see different options you can buy in steel and ceramic. Or even as a kit.
They're also very good answering calls.
Do you need that "fancy" grease for the pawls? Couldn't i just use park tools ppl?
Hi there!
The grease I used is just one option of many. If you find a similar one with the same properties, it should be ok. What I like about this grease is that is kind of sticky, so it stays on the paws for long time. I haven't use the Park tools one, so I can't tell.
what size is that socket size you use in ruclips.net/video/mYtplETR9P8/видео.html to support the freehub and remove the bearing ? can you advice me tnx
It was a 32mm socket in the video, but 28mm or larger might also work.